Where to stay on San Juan Island with kids

If you read our post last week, you’re all set with your San Juan Island with kids itinerary! Now, where to stay on San Juan Island with kids: while it’s true that the San Juan Islands are known as a destination for B&Bs, other options do exist. Read on for our top lodging experiences on San Juan Island, with a wide range of options for your family.

san-juan-islands with kids

 

Lakedale Resort: Kid-heaven on three lakes

If the kid-friendly factor is #1 in your book, but you don’t want to sacrifice quiet and tranquility while you enjoy island life, head to Lakedale. This island resort is located inland on a network of three small lakes, but is still only 4.5 miles from Friday Harbor. Entering Lakedale feels like entering summer camp: past the lodge and cabins is the general store, a crafts tent (usually with tie-dye t-shirts hanging to dry), and a swimming beach plus multiple docks with kayaks, canoes, paddle boats, and paddle-boards. Lodging includes log cabins, ‘glamping’ tent cabins, a retro Airstream, and a full campground. (There’s also a lodge with lodge rooms, but these are for guests 16 and up.) The Lakedale log cabins include kitchens and separate bedrooms, and their glamping tents include full beds, luxury linens, and even room for four (instead of the usual two per tent).

lakedale-canoe

We stayed in a cabin, and had plenty of room for our family of five. With the full kitchen, we were able to make meals in-house (though a grocery run pre-arrival is important…the general store is limited). We loved the back porch with lovely shaded views of the woods and lake, plus the space to start our own campfire in our fire ring. We also had a BBQ and lots of space for the kids the play. Listening to the bird song in the trees on the back porch in the evenings couldn’t be beat, even by ocean views.

lakedale-cabin

Kids have the run of the place at Lakedale; there’s a very comfortable, friendly atmosphere here. We rented paddle-boards for our kids, gave them ice cream money, and didn’t see them until dinner time. (Note: they were old enough to play unsupervised, but young kids do need an adult, of course.) The resort is located lakeside, but is also within easy drive of both Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor.

Location: 4313 Roche Harbor Road

Island Inn: Friday Harbor ‘city’ life

Want to stay in the heart of it all instead? Located in Friday Harbor, right across the street from the pier, Island Inn is self-described as ‘off the coast of ordinary’. This boutique-style hotel has a forward-thinking approach to room rental: singles and couples can reserve small, view-less ‘euros‘ (private rooms), which include access to a ‘view share’: communal room with windows looking out over the harbor, kitchenettes, and living space. These rooms are available for families, too, but kids must be 16 and up.

island-inn

Families with younger kids can opt to reserve ‘sweets’ or ‘penthouses’, with up to nearly 1500 square feet. In all Island Inn lodging options, families can cook their own meals and relax in a home-like setting. Plus, those views? Are out of this world. Nightly rates range widely depending on season and room type, but in the off-season when we visited, they started under $200/night.

Location: directly on Front Street!

Roche Harbor Resort: Family-friendly, lively atmosphere

If you’re interested in all the amenities kids love, from an outdoor pool to lawn games and lots of space to play, but also want to be in the thick of things, you’ll want to head to Roche Harbor Resort. Many options exist for families here, ranging from a stay in the historic Hotel de Haro or historic cottages to village homes with 2-3 bedrooms. The lodging ranges drastically from new to old, but all are within easy walking distance (and view) of the harbor or bay.

roche-harbor

Roche Harbor is a busy marina, with lots of kids to see and do, and several dining options. Families will need to have a car, however, to explore Friday Harbor and the rest of the island.

Location: Rueben Memorial Drive, Roche Harbor

Snug Harbor Resort: Graceful, gorgeous, and welcoming

Snug Harbor Resort is one of those rare losing options that manage to be all things to all people. At first glance, it appears this sleek all-cabin and suite resort nestled on the tucked-away cove of Mitchell Bay would be suited only for yoga enthusiasts, cyclists, or couples seeking peace and quiet. This is perfectly true, but with its communal fire pits, complimentary kayak and paddle-board rentals, and green spaces, it’s also ideal for families with kids.

snug-harbor-resort

The cabins themselves have been newly remodeled and are absolutely beautiful. I stepped inside ours and sighed with utter contentment. Each has wood accents throughout, a gas-powered stove for heat, ample windows facing the bay, and a full kitchen. Ours had two bedrooms plus a pull-out couch, perfect for our family. We kayaked, paddled, ate s’mores, and yes, I practiced yoga on my porch overlooking the Salish Sea in the morning.

paddle-board

There’s even a coffee shop on-site for your java-fix, and Roche Harbor is only about five minutes away by car, should you want an evening out.

Snug Harbor Resort is located at 1997 Mitchell Bay Rd.

The Kirk House: the place to book for a couples-only getaway

Located just a few blocks from the heart of Friday Harbor, The Kirk House is owned by Doug and Roxy Kasman, who are warm, welcoming, and as far from the ‘fussy’ B&B type as you can get. Their property is a beautiful bungalow with a comfortable sitting room with four bedrooms leading off of it. Each has their own bathroom. While family groups can reserve the whole house (Doug and Roxy live off-site), this lodging experience is best without the kids.

kirk-house

Each room at the Kirk House has its own character and own amenities. If booking just a few rooms (not the whole house) it’s recommended kids are 14 and up, as rooms are not baby-proofed, etc. Definitely call before booking to see which will be best for you. Some have tubs, others have large walk-in showers. All have wifi, and comfortable robes and heavenly beds. The neighborhood is quiet, even though the high school is across the street. The house features a lovely wraparound porch with rocking chairs, and some grass out front and gardens out back.

kirk-house

Breakfast is included at the Kirk House, and it was fabulous. We started with yogurt and fruit parfaits with local berries and homemade granola, which would have been enough to fill me up! We were then served a delicious upside-down apple cake (again, locally sourced) and a honey-baked ham. Coffee, tea, and juice are available, and throughout the day, little snacks and goodies are set out. Call for room rates, and consider visiting in the off-season, when rates are lower and town is quieter!

kirk-house

Location: 595 Park Street, Friday Harbor

Where do you stay on San Juan Island? Check out our related post on nearby Orcas Island!

Multi-day kayaking in the San Juan Islands

Families will always see more detail of the area they’re traveling by car rather than by plane, and even more by bicycle than by car. In the San Juan Islands, there’s no better way to explore this vast network of islands than by kayak.

overnight-kayaking

On our previous trips to the San Juan Islands, we arrived by ferry, then visited two islands: Orcas and San Juan. This time, we decided we were ready for the bigger adventure of a multi-day kayak trip in the San Juan Islands, camping on remoter islands en route. We embarked with Crystal Seas Kayak, setting out on a perfectly sunny June morning. For two nights and three days, nothing stood between us and the tides, islands, sea, and sky.

What to expect on a Crystal Seas Kayak trip:

After booking our Crystal Seas trip, we were emailed a detailed packing list and FAQs, so we’d know what to bring. In a nutshell, we needed personal items such as clothing, sleeping bags, headlamps, sun protection, and toiletries. Crystal Seas provided everything else, including all food (and meal preparation), tents, sleeping pads, kayaks, and of course, guidance in the form of two guides.

crystal-seas

We met our guides, Brett and Corey, at a designated pick-up location on San Juan Island. This location is usually the ferry dock at Friday Harbor, but Crystal Seas will work with you if a different pick-up location is more convenient. Both Brett and Corey are local to the islands; having grown up in the San Juans, they knew all the ins and outs of the many islands, currents, and tide flows. We were happy to spend three days with both of them.

We shuttled by van to our put-in spot, the San Juan County Park campground and kayak launch on the east side of the island. We transferred our gear to dry bags, and learned how to load our sea kayaks (they’re like clown cars…it’s amazing how much gear fits!). We headed off by mid-morning, paddling to adjacent Henry Island for our first lunch. We then continued across a few miles of open water to reach Stuart Island, our home for the next two nights.

kayaking-san-juans

We paddled approximately 14 miles from our launch site on San Juan Island, but we took most of the day to do it, stopping to look at interesting sites in our kayaks and taking occasional land breaks. As an occasional kayaker (not a total newbie), I didn’t find the distance too strenuous, but we did find it satisfyingly challenging.

Our kids, ages 16, 13, and 10, fared just as well, if not better, than me and my mom, who joined us for this multi-generational trip. The paddling was less challenging for the teens of course, but it was crucial that they listen to instructions by our guides, because while the water looks calm in this part of the Salish Sea most of the time, the currents and tides are to be respected. Without our guides, we absolutely would have made big mistakes, even though we could see land of some sort at all times.

The ‘marine trail’ campsites at Stuart Island’s Reid Harbor are dedicated for human-powered watercraft only, which means kayaks, not motorboats, sailboats, or yachts. The latter can anchor in the bay, and we enjoyed seeing all the watercraft there, but appreciated that the campsites were more isolated, tucked away in the trees just past the beach.

We set up camp before dinner, each group of two finding a spot for their tent and setting it up. We explored the beach and dock, the kids taking a swim (brrr!) and spotting seals, sea stars, and seabirds of all sorts. After appetizers (yes, really!), we sat down to a dinner of salmon, freshly mashed potatoes, and salad with local greens and homemade dressing. Dessert was a pecan pie brought from a local bakery in San Juan (more on food later).

kayaking-crystal-seas

 

We settled in for the night by 10 pm (when it starts getting dark at this time of year), and while I woke at first light, the kids all slept in. We planned to remain camped in cozy Reid Harbor, taking a day paddle to explore nearby islands and hike. We enjoyed this more leisurely day, but Brett and Corey also offered an alternative itinerary, which would have included packing up and camping at another island, Jones. While Crystal Seas has a general itinerary set for each trip, we found there was a lot of flexibility when possible.

stuart-island

Our Day 2 included a beautiful paddle around Johns Island, where we floated past a colony of seals and looked for orcas in the strait (no luck this time!). We picnicked lunch on a tiny island (I’m sure it has a name, but I don’t know it, and my map shows it only as a speck!), then paddled ‘home’ to Reid Harbor, where we rested (and they kids played on the beach) before our hike up the nearest ridge to view the islands from 800 feet above sea level. This may have been one of my favorite moments on the trip: the view looked like the most perfect 3D map of the islands I could have asked for. In the sunlight under a blue sky, we could see all the way to the Olympics in one direction and Mt. Baker in the other. We spotted all the islands we’d paddled by, and Brett and Corey pointed out Roche Harbor, on the east side of San Juan. It looked surprisingly close, which is a lesson we learned kayaking in this area: distances are very hard to gauge on the water.

san-juans

We enjoyed another amazing meal, then rewarded the kids with a full buffet of s’mores ingredients. Our teens loved making campfires each night, and having the freedom to explore the campsites and nearby trails.

One of the things that makes backcountry trips, of any sort, so special for our family is the together-time. Without electronics, friends, or schedules in the way, the kids play together like they used to when they had less responsibilities and less social life. This trip was no different. Our youngest got his brothers back, and the teens got their childhood back.

They made swords out of sticks, skipped pebbles, spotted schools of fish, jumped off the dock, and wrestled on fallen logs. In other words, they had untethered ‘boy’ time.

reid-harbor-camping

Our last day, we packed up camp early, in order to paddle back to San Juan with the current in our favor. Thank goodness for Brett and Corey, who know these things! We paddled hard the distance back, with few breaks, necessary in this direction, but again, it felt satisfying to accomplish a hard day’s paddle in just a morning! We picnicked lunch back at the put-in spot, then shuttled back to our car. Looking out over the view of the Salish Sea while we ate our last meal together, we weren’t quite ready to leave!

Food on Crystal Seas trips:

In a word, the food is fantastic. We’ve been on several multi-day rafting and kayaking trips, and the food is always good, but Crystal Seas takes it a step further, serving as many local foods as possible. I’d estimate 70% of the foods served were locally sourced or grown. In addition to our salmon meal, we had a wonderful meal of beef and veggie tacos, plus lunches of caprice sandwiches and salmon wraps and breakfasts of bagel sandwiches and yogurt parfaits. There was always fresh fruit, fresh veggies, and snacks like organic chips, top quality trail mix and bars, and spread and dips.

crystal-seas-food

Note: no alternatives to the meal served were offered to children, so if you have a pick eater, let them know ahead of time. They absolutely accommodate all dietary needs, so I’m sure they could accommodate a child who needs a simpler meal. Our teens ate everything in sight, and our 10-year-old like 90% of the meals, but would have been happy with a plain PB&J a few times.

Helpful planning tips:

If you book at multi-day kayak trip with Crystal Seas, here are a few tricks and tips we learned along the way:

  • If you have a car, but you’ve checked out of your accommodations, park at the courthouse parking lot in Friday Harbor. We parked here on recommendation of Crystal Seas, and our car was secure without a parking fee. They picked us up here, too.
  • Organize your gear the night before. While you won’t have your dry bags until you’re at the put-in spot, you don’t want to be organizing your gear from your suitcase or duffle full of clothes at the dock. We set aside all the clothing and personal items we’d need for each person, and packed them in one large packing cube per person. They we only had to transfer the packing cube to the dry bag.
  • You’ll get a separate dry bag for your sleeping bag. The best type to bring is a lightweight down or down alternative bag, which packs down smaller than a camping bag.
  • Don’t forget any medications you might need. We all needed allergy medication during the trip, and luckily we had it with us. The guides will have a medical kit, so we probably could have left ours in the car.
  • Be prepared to get dirty! The campsites are rustic, and there are no showers (though there is a composting toilet at the campground). We brought Wilderness Wipes with us to freshen up a few times.
  • Be prepared for all weather. We lucked out with three perfect days, but we all had rain jackets and down sweaters with us, as well as gloves and beanie knit hats for everyone. On the flip side, we also had sunglasses (a must on the water!) and sun hats.
  • You’ll have a ‘skirt’ on in the kayak, keeping your lower half dry, so don’t worry about being wet and cold while paddling. Arms will get a bit wet from the paddles, but if it makes you cold, wear a rain jacket under your life vest.
  • Don’t forget to tip your guides. Our worked so hard…they definitely deserved it!

Disclosure: we experienced Crystal Seas on a media rate, for the purpose of review. As always, all opinions are our own.

Scotland barge cruise tips: Seeing Scotland by waterway

Scotland barge river cruises are gaining in popularity by the minute, and it’s easy to understand why: these itineraries allow for all-inclusive convenience and luxury without sacrificing the intimate look at local scenery and culture lost when booking a larger ocean cruise.

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Scotland barge cruise tips:

Scotland, with its canals and locks, is an especially ideal country to explore by waterway. A Scotland barge cruise should hit a varied mixture of must-sees, including plenty of lochs, castles and ruins, quaint villages, and countryside sporting that unique blend between domestic and ruggedly wild only Scotland can quite pull off. Adult and solo travelers have plenty of outfitters to choose from,

Pick an itinerary that travels the Caledonian Canal

Most barge cruise operators float this canal, which runs between Banavie in the south to Inverness in the north. The Caledonian is actually a series of smaller canals connecting four natural lakes: Loch Lachy, Loch Oich, Loch Dochfour and Loch Ness. Along the way, cruises float directly past multiple castles, battlefields, and lochs, including Urquhart Castle and the infamous Loch Ness. Highlights include Neptune’s Staircase at Corpath, a stop for all barges, and Cawdor Castle, home of Shakespeare’s Macbeth.

urquhart-castle

Expect luxury

All small ship cruises are on the higher end of the vacation pricing scale, but Scotland barge cruises are especially expensive (and luxurious). Because of the narrow size of the canals in Scotland, barges must be smaller than even industry standard for small ship cruises, with passenger lists as small as six and large as 15. The smaller, more intimate the cruise, the more luxurious you can expect it to be. For the best value, consider European Waterways or Cruising Holidays. On the higher end of the scale, go all out with A&K or  Hebridean.

Cruising with kids

Scotland barge cruises make for incredibly kid-friendly vacations by their very definition: this type of European holiday is all about exploration, activity, and new sights and sounds daily. Parents can leave the itinerary planning and meal preparations up to the cruise operator, a godsend when on the go in a foreign country with kids. All this said, while looking to book a barge cruise, be prepared to book the entire barge for your family alone, should you be bringing school-aged kids. Due to the small size of barges, this is a requirement of every cruising company I’ve found (and was a requirement when our family cruised). At first, the idea of booking an ‘entire barge’ for a single family seemed over the top, until I realized that with even a family of 8-10, you’d be booking your own barge anyway. Invite the grandparents and cousins, and you’re set.

scottish-highlands

Barge cruise add-ons

Once on the canal, your itinerary will be set. Most barge cruises stop for the majority of a day at major sites along the way, giving visitors plenty of time at lochs and villages. Look for a barge operator that stows cruiser bikes onboard; you’ll want these to explore village streets and cycle paths. For almost all stops, it will be easy to navigate the area on foot or bike, but after arrival at Inverness, plan to stay a few extra days at this gateway to the Scottish Highlands. Rent a car, and spend 2-3 days exploring the greater region. See more of the Urquhart area, including 4,000-year-old Corrimony Chambered Cairn, in Glen Urquhart, and take a Loch Ness Monster tour. See Plodda Falls, six miles from Cannich Village, and the Culloden battlefield, the final battle of the Jacobite Rising of 1745. All these sites are a short drive from Inverness.

This post is written in partnership with Enterprise. All opinions are my own.

Photo credit: Dave Conner and Lacegna, Flickr

Branson Missouri vacation plan: what to see and do with kids

Branson, Missouri is a tough town to categorize. With its kitchy attractions and extravagant shows, it looks like it should be a gambling town. It isn’t. With its hundreds of shops, restaurants, and hotels, it doesn’t seem to be an outdoor destination. And yet it is. Somehow, Branson is both Midwestern and Southern, city and county, fishing epicenter and nature preserve.

branson-landing

I don’t know how it does it, either.

If you’re considering a trip to Branson with kids, it’s because you’ve either 1. been coming here for years and are already a ‘Branson Believer’, as they say, or 2. you’ve heard buzz about this town (after all, it was the 25th most visited US destination last year). If you fall in the former category, off you go! Have fun! You know what you like. If you’re new to the destination, read on, because you’re going to need some guidance.

What to do in Branson with kids really depends on why you’re visiting. The good news: Branson is extremely family-friendly no matter what activities you pursue. It very much subscribes to a ‘God and country’ theme, where the many shows, attractions, and themed restaurants have a patriotic and religious undertone, to varying degrees.

silver-dollar-city-rides

Adding to the anomaly that is Branson: amid fast food chains and somewhat run-down tourist traps within Branson are large theaters housing extravagant shows, plus a waterfront of high-end chain stores and eateries. If you like Broadway-style musicals and dinner theater, you won’t have any trouble finding what you like within the city of Branson. Ditto for shopping and dining, whether you’re looking for traditional catfish or Mexican tacos.

If you’re coming to Branson for some ‘city’ fun mixed with outdoor recreation in the Ozark mountains, however it gets a bit trickier. While state parks and campgrounds do exist, much of the beauty of the Ozarks seems to be privately owned. Luckily for visitors, a huge chunk of it is owned by local multi-millionaire Johnny Morris, founder of Bass Pro Shop. A lover of the outdoors, Morris has done much to improve outdoor recreation in the area, including the building of a world-class golf course and lodge, but more importantly, setting aside a nature park and encouraging lots of water recreation on the area’s two large lakes.

dogwood-creek

‘His’ side of the Branson area appeals to me much more than most of Branson’s kitschy offerings, with some exceptions (see below). After spending five days in the area, I’ve narrowed down my picks for what to do in the Ozarks with kids on our next trip to Missouri:

In nature:

Spend a day at Dogwood Canyon Nature Park:

dogwood-canyon

The nature park Morris set aside is 10,000 acres of Ozark canyon and hillside, and while it’s more manicured than I’d like, coming from the Western states, it’s a good representation of the beauty of the area. About 45 minutes’ drive from Branson, Dogwood Canyon is perfect for a day of bike riding, picnicking, and possibly taking a tram ride to see American bison and elk. Is it a little more ‘Disney’ than rugged wilderness? Yes. But kids will have fun here, and parents can enjoy a relaxed day in the country. It may be old-fashioned, but it’s fun!

Take the kids zip lining:

There are more zip lining operations in the Branson area than gallons of sweet tea, or so it seems when looking through a visitors guide. However, we heard through a number of sources that Branson Zip Line at Wolfe Creek Station outshines them all. We spent a nice morning here, enjoying the outdoors and the thrill of zip lining. The guides are excellent, and the views are amazing.

Get on the waters of Lake Taneycomo or Table Rock:

Branson is known for bass and trout fishing. Get on the lake with a fishing tour for the day; these well-stocked lakes yield big catches. Other options include kayak rentals at Branson’s Landing. There are fewer hiking trails around the lakes than I’d like, so for us, the next best thing to walking around the water is to get on the water.

Spend a day at Silver Dollar City:

silver-dollar-city

This wholesome, friendly, and downright beautiful little theme park will surprise you, both in how enjoyable it is and how serious it is about big-time thrill rides. With artisan master crafters, homemade food, and fun rides for all ages, Silver Dollar City is a truly unique theme park, and well worth a day of your time.

Tour Wilson’s Creek Battlefield Historic Site:

Located outside Branson toward Springfield on Highway 65, families can spend a full day at Wilson’s Creek Civil War battlefield. Allow at least a full morning or afternoon to tour the several mile loop in your car after seeing the well-done video at the visitors center. This is a national park site, so be sure to get your passport stamped! Along the auto tour, most stops include short hiking trails to see the relevant sites…be sure to allow time to walk at least a few of these. You’ll be hiking directly where Union and Confederate troops walked, camped, and fought. It’s an awe-inspiring and sobering visit, but the area is so beautiful, you’ll want to linger with a picnic.

wilsons-creek

Note: as you’re exploring historical sites in Southern Missouri, consider picking up The Big Divide, A Travel Guide by Diane Eickhoff and Aaron Barnhart. This historic guide to the Missouri and Kansas border region really helped us decide which sites we could fit into our itinerary. There’s an entire section on Southwest Missouri and the Springfield/Branson area.

In town:

Certainly, spend a fun day in the town of Branson. If you want a taste of true Branson nightlife, take in a show such as the Presley’s , Dixie Stampede dinner show, or Dutton’s. They’re hard to describe, but just be ready for lots of traditional tunes with a bluegrass, western, conservative-values feel. If you want to give that a pass, there’s still plenty on offer. Here’s what I enjoyed:

branson-missouri

 

Titanic Branson:

A Titanic museum worthy of your time and money in Branson, of all places? Yes. Truly. I wouldn’t steer you wrong. This top-quality museum is a must-do in Branson. The brain child of a local Hollywood producer, the museum is an interactive, immersive experience that doesn’t rely on technology but rather human stories, talented actors, and a stunning building that’s a recreation of parts of the ill-fated ship. Best for school-aged kids and up, you’ll want to devote a few hours to this attraction.

Branson Landing:

Branson Landing is the newer part of downtown Branson, or at least, it’s the newest looking part. The lakeside promenade is lined with slick shops and chain stores such as Chico’s, Bass Pro (of course), and the like. You can rent the aforementioned kayaks here, book a charter tour, and watch the water and light show that performs regularly throughout the day. This is the place to be to cool off in fountains, eat out, and take a stroll.

Where to stay:

The best part of Branson, I believe, is the natural beauty of the area. Therefore, given another trip to Branson, I’d look for a vacation home rental on one of the lakes and surrounding areas. Morris’s Big Cedar Lodge is set apart from town as well, and could be an option, though it’s quite developed. Other options include the Chateau at the Lake, which is a lovely resort directly on Table Rock lake. During my stay, I based myself at the Hilton Promenade, directly at Branson’s Landing. I really liked the hotel, but the location was city-oriented, not nature-oriented.

Have you been to Branson? Where do you stay? What do you enjoy doing?

Photo credit: Doug Wertman

Silver Dollar City, Branson, Missouri

The town of Branson, Missouri is a curious mixture of overtly touristy and world-class attractions. I thought Silver Dollar City would fall in the former category. Instead, after spending a day there, I believe it fits in the latter. I’m going to state a pretty strong opinion here: this theme park is second only to Disney parks for quality, cleanliness, and character.

silver-dollar-city

Silver Dollar City began in much the same way as classic theme parks like California’s Knott’s Berry Farm or Oregon’s quaint Enchanted Forest: as a family business built around a simple, wholesome theme (in this case, the limestone Marvel Cavern and classic Missouri hospitality). But instead of commercializing to the point of soullessness or remaining in relative obscurity, Silver Dollar City somehow grew into itself without losing its heart and sense of purpose.

silver-dollar-city

Yes, there are rollercoasters. But there are also authentic, working craft artisans. There are gift shops selling trinkets, but there are also studios selling handblown glass and pottery fired on-site. With Silver Dollar City’s blend of craftsmen and women and thrill rides, it’s easy to see why it’s a beloved park for multigenerational travelers. And somehow, it all goes together nicely.

silver-dollar-city

The theme park’s premise is of a 1880s frontier town, and what could be hokey is instead charming. Its village of artisan shops and craft demonstrations encircle rides and shows, with dining venues weaved throughout. Somehow, the whole place remains peaceful, despite the bustle of attraction queues for the headliner coasters. In truth, visitors who are not interested in thrill rides can easily avoid them altogether. The Silver Dollar ‘streets’ are distinctly ‘Disney-like’ with pristine cleanliness, lush vegetation, and exceptional theming. A few authentically historical buildings are on display in the center of the park, with the rest of the structures carrying out the theme via replica. At the heart of the park lies Marvel Cave, the original attraction that brought people to the area, but you might actually miss it if you’re not careful: the entrance is actually in the center of the large gift shop near the entrance. This is my only real beef with Silver Dollar City; I’d love to see this limestone feature given more limelight.

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In the park’s craft and artisan areas, families can see demonstrations on everything from pottery to glass blowing to bread baking, and just about everything in-between. The artisans in the many shops are not simply dressing in period costume and explaining how things such as lye soap, honey, leatherwork, woodwork, and metalwork items are made…they are actual master craftsmen and women. It’s fascinating to watch them work, browse the shops, and buy souvenirs in stores that are not junky tourist traps (they have those too, though, if you’re partial to that). In addition to the crafts, many food vendors demonstrate their skills as well; Silver Dollar City has a working bakery, grain mill and bread baking facility, creamery, and food stalls serving authentic recipes like succotash and apple dumplings alongside the classics like funnel cakes and kettle corn.

silver-dollar-city-rides

Dedicated ‘lands’ for kids are plentiful: near the artisan areas is an upscale country fair style area with a giant swing and plenty of kiddie rides, and the new Fireman’s Landing features a semi-thrill ride, water splash area, and more children’s classics. Down a ‘holler’ past the park railroad lies an area celebrating Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn, with a giant treehouse, river raft ride, and two higher intensity water rides. Beyond all this lie the thrill rides, which consist of three high-quality rollercoasters on par with the top theme parks I’ve been to. In fact, the newest ride, Outlaw, won an award for best new ride of 2013 worldwide. It’s certainly the most intense rollercoaster I’ve ever been on. Two additional high-adrenaline rollercoasters are joined by several smaller rides and Silver Dollar City’s oldest ride, an indoor dark ride that tells the local legend of Missouri hobnobs (up to no good vigilante bandits). It’s a bit scary…mostly because it’s dated and dark, but I can see why long-time park goers are fond of it.

outlaw-rollercoaster

If you want to see all of the park in a day, it’s certainly do-able if you plan correctly. Start with the thrill rides in the morning, while the artisan areas are quieter (you’ll want to hit this area when demonstrations are in full force). After the headliners, ride the smaller rides, grab lunch, then spend the afternoon touring the artisans or the cave. No matter where you are during the day, plenty of higher-the-usual quality theme park fare is on the menu, and shows are regularly scheduled (of the comedy and musical variety). Everywhere you go, you’ll be greeted by big leafy trees and beautiful grounds. In fact, take a look around while ascending to the peak of the rollercoaster mountains…instead of viewing parking lots and city scenes below you, you’ll see miles of rolling Ozark mountains. It’s truly lovely.

Dining:

silver-dollar-city

You can’t go too wrong dining in the park…there are a lot of options, and most of it is very good. If you want an all-you-can-eat-buffet, you’ll find two on the grounds, but I’d opt for finding the street food vendors who sell homemade items unique to Silver Dollar City (you’d find many of these in the buffets, too). Items I liked best include the apple dumplings and cinnamon ice cream, baked beans, and fried okra, plus I was told anything BBQed was excellent. The traditional theme park fare is good too, but trust me, get some of the ‘eats’ unique to the park.

Admission:

silver-dollar-city

Daily admission is $60 for adults, $49 for kids 4-11, and free for kids under three. The value is there, but for $45 more each, you can upgrade to season passes. If you think you’ll make it to the park even twice, absolutely upgrade. Silver Dollar City also posts special offers continuously.

They do offer a ‘front of the line’ pass they call the Trailblazer pass, which allows families to enter in a separate ‘fast pass’ line for up to eight rides for $35 extra per ticket. I’m a fan of these types of passes in the peak of summer when time truly is money, but most of the time, I don’t believe they will be needed at Silver Dollar City. Simply get to the park at opening and ride your favorites first. I was told lines don’t get longer than 1.5 hours even in summer. (This is not an official stat, but was told to me by a senior park staff member.)

bakery

Hours of operation:

The park is seasonal, operating from late spring through December 31. It’s closed Jan-April (except for spring break weeks). Check the calendar for exact hours.

Directions:

The park is located at 399 Silver Dollar City Parkway Branson, MO.

As I disclose whenever applicable, I toured Silver Dollar City as a guest of the theme park. All opinions are my own.

Ozarks with kids: Branson Zip Line

Driving into Branson from Springfield on Highway 65, families won’t be able to pass Branson Zip Line at Wolfe Creek Station without the kids noticing the tall towers and cables stretching over the beautiful Ozarks. Go ahead and stop, because if you plan to include zip-lining in your Branson stay, this is the place to do it.

branson-zip-line

A lot of zip lining operations have popped up in this area, but Branzon Zip Line sets the industry standard in the Branson area. Their guides have training on par with the most extensive operations across the US, and the location at Wolf Creek Station has some history to it, too.

Families will want to make reservations in the summer months, because this place gets popular. However, their check-in area and waiting areas are run smoothly, and there’s plenty to see and do while you wait…including nice outdoor areas. Even the gift shop has some interesting and unique items.

branson-zip-line

Kids need to be at least 70 pounds to take the tours, which is heavier than some zip line companies we’ve tried, so come prepared for this. Families choose form three main packages that range from three zip lines to seven, with sky bridges in-between, or can do a combo tour of all eight zip lines and 10 bridges. Alternatively, it’s possible to do the Blue Streak Fast Line and Free Fall separately or as an add-on. The latter is a zip line and tower free fall from 100 feet up. It’s the main structure visible from the highway, and yes, dare devil kids will beg to do it.

zip-line

Each tour is about 5-10 people, with 2-3 guides, depending on guest number. After a safety briefing and getting outfitted into harnesses and helmets, groups head to the zip lines in a Pinzgauer Swiss Army Troop Carrier. This ride alone is quite fun, as the jeep-like vehicle bumps along the rutted dirt roads up Wolfe Mountain.

branson-zip-line

Throughout the tour, the guides give history on the area and the Wolfe family who owned it. We had excellent guides who were fun, personable, and attentive…definitely among the best we’ve encountered on multiple zip line excursions throughout the US. Branson Zip Line is definitely one of the more ‘hands-off’ zip lines we’ve experienced; there’s very little guests need to be aware of, as guides will click and unclick you from the lines at all times, and it’s not necessary to stop yourself with gloved hands.

We opted for the ‘Ridgeline’ tour, which included three zip lines and several bridges, and took about 1.5 hours. We didn’t opt for the 100 foot free fall add-on, but the Ridgeline does include a smaller 40 foot drop. The free falls are actually a lot less scary than they sound: you’re attached to a mechanism that allows you to fall for a short period, then smoothly and gradually slows you down before you reach the ground. It’s not jarring or particularly frightening to most people, but can be detoured around should you wish.

zip-line-tower

Distance from the interstate:

The zip lines are located directly off Highway 65, seven miles from Branson.

Cost:

Prices vary by tour, of course, but check this price sheet for current info. Zip line prices start at $69 for adults, $59 for kids, with the Blue Streak single zip and free fall add-on for $44.99. The best deal in the place is the family pass, which is $199 for two adults and two kids, or $249 for two adults and three kids. Kids are considered 17 and under, which is really nice.

Hours of operation:

Hours vary by season, and the operation is closed in winter. Check the website for current hours, but at the time of our visit in early season (spring), tours began at 8 or 9 am.

Directions:

Simply head seven miles out of Branson toward Springfield on Highway 65.

As we disclose whenever applicable, Pit Stops for Kids experienced Branson Zip Line as a guest of the operation, for the purpose of review. All opinions are our own.

Southwest Missouri pit stop: Fantastic Caverns

Southwest Missouri is filled with old-fashioned pit stops and slices of Americana. Case in point: Fantastic Caverns, ‘America’s only ride-through cave’.

fantastic-caverns

Fantastic Caverns is one of those natural wonders that probably should be protected by the US government, but is instead a privately-owned tourist attraction, making you worry a little bit. But go anyway (despite, or maybe because of, the many highway signs pointing you in its direction).

The fact is, Fantastic Caverns truly is pretty fantastic. And while yes, you do drive through this natural cave, care is now being taken to educate visitors about its protection, and attention is given to the area watershed that feeds it and the animals that inhabit it.

missouri-cavern

The cave tour is conducted via tram, driven by a tour guide. While it’s a shame that many years ago, narrow paths had been carved out of the cave to allow this, the benefit today is that the many visitors who see the cave cannot touch the delicate stalagmites and stalactites, which could cause damage. The cave, which was created from the area’s plentiful limestone, has an interesting history, which families learn about on the tour. In short, it was discovered in the Civil War era, first explored by a hardy group of teenage girls, enjoyed a lively period in which it housed a Prohibition Speak Easy, then held musical concerts.

fantastic-caverns

The large trams hold approximately 20 or more, by my estimation, and the tour takes about 45 minutes. The cave is quite long and deep, and the guide stops along the way to impart scientific or historical facts. I appreciated that our guide took the time to really help us grasp what the early explorers of the cave would have seen, compared to what we are able to see today, thanks to modern lighting. With all lights out, she lit a candle in a homemade metal can lantern and cast the light into the pitch black cavern: the dim light paled to the the spotlights now available for illumination.

The cavern is always 60 degrees, which can mean bringing a sweatshirt or sweater to wear in spring or fall, shedding a jacket to only a sweatshirt in winter, or enjoying a cool temperature without sleeves in the muggy summer months. Tours depart every 20-30 minutes, and there is a gift shop, of course, to browse while you’re waiting. Better yet, there’s a nice Ozarks nature trail that winds around the grounds. It’s only about one mile long, and perfect for parents with impatient kids.

Tour prices:

$23 for adults, $15 for kids 6-12. Kids 5 and under are free. At this price, the tour is worth it, but in our opinion, just barely.

Hours of operation:

I love that Fantastic Caverns is open right at 8 am. It closes at dusk. If you want a near-private tour, get there right at 8 am.

Directions:

The cavern is located at 4872 North Farm Road 125, Springfield Missouri. It’s located along a beautiful stretch of countryside, on windy, hilly roads, but is easily found thanks to all the handmade (looking) signposts en route.

As I disclose whenever applicable, I experienced Fantastic Caverns as a guest of the operation, for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.

Springfield Botanical Gardens

Driving through Springfield, Missouri? The Springfield Botanical Gardens at Nathanael Green/Close Memorial Park are free to the public, and extremely kid-friendly. Families can get a full afternoon of entertainment from this 114 acre park, or just stop in at a smaller section that appeal to them for a quicker stop. I definitely recommend picking up a lunch along Springfield’s Commercial Street (try Sister in Thyme deli) and eating it garden-side.

springfield-botanical

The park is centered around a new and modern visitors center, but unless you need bathrooms or would like to take the free tram tour around the park, there’s no need to stop here first. In this vicinity, you’ll see the Master Gardener Demonstration Gardens and the Mizumoto Japanese Stroll Garden, both of which are worth a peaceful walk-through. When touring the Japanese garden, explain to kids that the zig-zag bridge and moon bridge are curved and cornered to encourage a slower pace; challenge them to step slowly across, or to sit and study the uniform pebbles in the meditation garden…they will enjoy this more than you think!

japanese-garden

Near the Japanese garden is the Gray-Campbell Farmstead, which shows kids a taste of pioneering history in Southern Missouri. The home was actually moved to this site from just a few miles away. Next to it is the Liberty Schoolhouse, which depicts a one-room schoolhouse.

schoolhouse

Dozens of additional specialty gardens dot the acreage, including an English garden, winter garden, and lush shade gardens. Families can certainly get exercise walking the paths, especially around the lake, and throughout the park, kids will find specialty ‘play pods’ that educate as well as entertain with climbing structures, one of the best aspect of the park for children. There’s also a main playground by the visitor center.

close-memorial-park

Toward the center of the park, a seasonal butterfly house is enclosed in screen mesh. It is open during the natural lifecycle of native butterflies, as opposed to being a tropical butterfly house, so families can expect to see it open from mid-May through the end of summer.

Distance from the interstate:

Just minutes from I-44 and historic Route 66

Hours of operation:

Sunrise to sunset. Bathrooms and other facilities open 8 am to 5 pm in winter, 8 am to 8 pm in summer. 11 am to 5 pm or 6 pm on Sundays.

Directions:

The park and botanical gardens are located at 2400 South Scenic, Springfield, Missouri

Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield

Southwest Missouri hosts a great deal of rich history, including more Civil War history than we realized. While visiting in the Springfield or Branson area, plan to spend at least half a day, if not more, at Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield.

wilsons-creek

In case you need to brush up on your Civil War history (as I always do), Wilson’s Creek was the site of the second major battle of the war fought west of the Mississippi River, on August 10, 1861. It was significant in several ways: it was one of the fiercest, ugliest battles according to war historians, and it marked the death of the first Union general in battle, Nathaniel Lyon. Lyon’s death the Union’s defeat at Wilson’s Creek led President Lincoln to send reinforcements to Missouri, thus securing the state for the Union.

civil-war-history

The visitor’s center is small, with only a short hall of exhibits, but does have an excellent 28-minute film running continuously that depicts the battle and the days leading up to it. Directed by Ken Burns, it’s well-worth your time. It’s here you can pick up the information needed for the self-guided auto tour as well. Designed much like the Gettysburg Pennsylvania driving tour, albeit on a much smaller scale, the Wilson’s Creek driving tour is 4.9 miles of paved road with stops along the way to see important points of the battle. (You’ll see once you set out why it’s crucial to view the film first.)

wilsons-creek

There are multiple stops along the tour, but the highlights include the Ray House homestead, which became a temporary field hospital. Stand on the front porch where John Ray allegedly watched the battle rage in his cornfield, then walk to the view point to see the Ray spring house where they drew cool water for wounded soldiers. Further on, see the Edwards Cabin, which served as General Price’s headquarters (it was here he was interrupted while eating breakfast to the sound of Union cannons), and Bloody Hill, where 4,200 of Lyon’s men held high ground, holding off the Confederacy before their commander lost his life (along with 1,700 soldiers).

battlefield-trails

The grounds are beautiful and somewhat sacred-feeling, but a nice feature are the many walking trails criss-crossing the landscape. With one stop in the car, we could walk between several batteries and the Edwards Cabin, for instance, with views of Bloody Hill to boot.

wilsons-creek

These trails often connect to the Wire Road (a small dirt road) that troops originally marched along. All trails have clear signposts, and most are no more than 1/2 mile from site to site. Families can do as much or little walking as desired. In several places, trails and even the road cross Wilson’s Creek.

wilsons-creek

Hours:

The Visitors Center is open 8 am to 5 pm, seven days a week. The Battlefield Tour Road is open 8 am to 5 pm in winter, and until 7 pm in spring and 9 pm in summer.

Entrance fee:

Entry to the park is $5 per adult, or $10 total per car load. Because this is a National Park site, be sure to get your National Park Passport stamped!

wire-road-wilsons-creek

Dining:

There are no food services, but in nice weather, families can absolutely picnic along the Battlefield Tour Road, or at the Visitor’s Center.

Reading on Wilson’s Creek and other historic sites:

It’s always a great idea to read up on historic sites before planning a trip. When you do, you often find that there are additional sites nearby that also may be worthy of a visit. A great way to research a historic trip is with a travel guide that focuses on history in a particular region, as opposed to with a history book that may not tie sites together in an itinerary. Before leaving to see Southern Missouri, I had the chance to read through The Big Divide: A Travel Guide, which focuses on the Missouri-Kansas border region. Thanks to its section on Springfield, I learned there’s a national Civil War cemetery near Wilson’s Creek.

Directions:

The battlefield is located at 6424 West Farm Road 182, in Republic, Missouri. From I-44, take Exit 70 south to MO-ZZ. Turn right on ZZ to the park.

Branson Landing review: a stay at Hilton Promenade

Branson, Missouri is the 25th most visited family destination in the US. With wholesome shows rivaling Broadway quality, the natural attraction of the Ozarks, and lots of dining and shopping, we think it gets this top 25 distinction from it’s ability to offer something to almost everyone, and its drivable location in the lower midwest.

hilton-promenade

 

If you’re planning a trip to Branson, you won’t be short on hotel options. To be in the heart of Branson Landing, opt for Hilton Promenade. You’ll be right on the promenade, steps from the fountains, dining and bars, and shops, plus less than one block from Bass Pro Shop and the water.

As a newbie to Branson, I liked being in the center of things to get my bearings. On another trip, I might not mind being further afield (lakeside camping sounds pretty nice!) but if you’re looking for all the amenities you need along a pedestrian walkway at Lake Taneycomo, this is your hotel.

Room amenities:

hilton-promenade

I tried out a king room in the ‘deluxe room’ category (there are only deluxe or suites), and on the third floor, I had a fantastic view of the fountain light show on the Landing at Lake Taneycomo, yet the room was quiet enough at night, despite overlooking the pedestrian area. The room comes standard with a mini fridge, coffee service, and a very nice desk workstation with lots of convenient plug-ins for electronics. Wifi does cost about $10 per day, unless you’re a HiltonHonors member of certain standing. I can tell you that as a basic member, I didn’t make the cut. Like most travelers, this annoys me to no end, and it’s good to be aware of. There’s a spacious walk-in shower and a tub in the large bathroom, and everything is well decorated and new-looking.

branson-landing

Hotel amenities:

Great news for families: the Hilton Promenade has a nicely sized indoor pool and hot tub. The attached bathrooms even have showers, so kids can rise off or parents can shower downstairs after working out in the adjacent exercise room.

The restaurant in Hilton Promenade is currently closed for renovations (as of January 2015), but a shuttle does run to the adjacent Hilton Convention Center (a two minute walk), where families can dine at Level 2 Steakhouse. They also have a sleek bar with house-made cocktails. The lack of an on-site restaurant isn’t really a problem: even closer than Level 2 Steakhouse are the multitude of dining options on the promenade. There is also in-room dining should you need an early breakfast before promenade restaurants open.

indoor-pool

Room rates:

Because Branson is such a family-friendly town, Hilton Promenade seems to run specials that package kid-friendly attractions with room rates quite often. Check here for the current deals. At the time of my visit in late spring, the rack room rate began at $159 for a two-queen room and $184 for the standard king room I had. Pet-friendly rooms are available.

Date last visited:

May 2015

Directions:

The Hilton Promenade is located at 3 Branson Landing, Branson Missouri.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my stay at Hilton Promenade was complimentary, for the purpose of review. Without these stays, extensive hotel reviews would not be possible.