Adventures - Pitstops for Kids

Uncrowded Yosemite: backpacking Yosemite National Park with kids

April 11, 2013 By Amy Hagstrom

Would you believe that in July, in the center of Yosemite National Park, we enjoyed an entire day where we never saw another soul? It’s possible, provided you depart from the usual tourist destinations in the valley and explore Yosemite backcountry.

Backpacking Yosemite National Park with kids:

We chose to hike a portion of The John Muir Trail, a 211 mile path between Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley and Mt. Whitney in the California desert. While hardcore backpackers will hike the entire length in as little as 15 days, the Yosemite National Park portion of the John Muir Trail makes for a nice escape for backpackers with less time (or young kids). Backpackers hiking the John Muir trail in Yosemite traditionally start at the base of Vernal Fall in Yosemite National Park, and climb upward past Vernal and Nevada falls, Half Dome, and Little Yosemite Valley campground while making their way toward Tuolumne Meadows. For our John Muir Tail trip with young kids, we decided to tackle the John Muir Trail in reverse, which allowed for more downhill sections of trail and fewer crowds until the end of our journey.

Planning a Yosemite backcountry trip:

Backpacking the Yosemite National park backcountry with kids involves planning. Anyone planning to hike any portion of the John Muir Trail must obtain a Yosemite wilderness permit. Permits can be secured up to 168 days prior to the date desired, and for summer backpacking in Yosemite, reserving a permit the full 168 days out is recommended.

Upon arrival to Yosemite, you’ll need to check in at a Yosemite National Park Wilderness Center, where you’ll pick up your permit as well as bear canisters if you don’t have your own. Bear canisters must be used to store all food and scented items such as toothpaste, medications, and lotion, and can be rented (for only the price of a deposit). You’ll need to leave space in your packs for these.

If you plan to hike Half Dome, Half Dome permits are required, and they are separate from backcountry permits (though you can obtain both simultaneously). And if you plan to stay a night before or after your backpacking trek in Yosemite National Park (recommended), be sure to secure lodging early, as this is one of the most crowded national parks in America. Backpackers can also make use of free backpacker campgrounds the day before and after their backpacking trip.

On the John Muir Trail:

Day 1: Tuolumne Meadows to Sunrise Lake (3 miles)
In order to start our Yosemite backpacking trip in Tuolumne Meadows, we began at the Sunrise Trail Head at Tenaya Lake on Tioga Road. We followed the Sunrise Trail up steep switchbacks to connect with the Forsyth Trail near beautiful Sunrise Lake (a great first night camping option).

Day 2: Forsyth Trail to Clouds Rest and beyond (8 miles)
From Sunrise Lake, we continued to follow the Forsyth Trail to intersect with the Clouds Rest junction, leading 2 miles to arguably the best viewpoint in Yosemite National Park. From Clouds Rest, hikers can see the entire Yosemite Valley, including an unique view of Half Dome. Note: the pinnacle of Clouds Rest is fully exposed, with steep drop offs on each side. This is not a place for young children or anyone with vertigo or a fear of heights. Since I fall into that category (hiking with a small child), we viewed the Yosemite landscape from just .2 mile below the top, which also offers wonderful vistas.

Hikers can continue past Clouds Rest to intersect with the John Muir Trail several miles later, but as this section of trail is still exposed and at great heights, we opted to return the 2 miles back to the Forsyth Trail and join the John Muir Trail much earlier. This first section of John Muir winds through old growth forest alongside Sunrise Creek, and affords several nice camp sites adjacent to this water source. This section of the John Muir Trail is less traveled, but we were still surprised to find we didn’t encounter a single hiker all evening, night, or morning.

Day 3: Sunrise Creek to Little Yosemite Valley (5 miles)
Day 3 took us along the John Muir Trail from Sunrise Creek into Little Yosemite Valley. This backpackers’ haven offers numerous campsites along the Merced River (perfect for swimming in after a long day hiking!). Though lively, Little Yosemite is a fun oasis for hikers, offering conversation and companionship around the communal fire pit after days of relative isolation.

En route to Little Yosemite Valley, the John Muir Trail offers views of Half Dome, and the steady accent of hikers navigating its cable system to the top. Should you wish to ascend Half Dome yourself, the trail intersects with the final 2 miles of the Half Dome Trail mid-way through your hike down to Little Yosemite. Note: this is another steep, exposed trail. Though children can ascend it, be advised that very small kids may not be able to reach the cables, essential to a safe ascent. Our 13 and 11-year-olds could make the trek, but not our seven-year-old. For those not challenging Half Dome, it’s fun stop on John Muir Trail or Little Yosemite Valley and use binoculars to watch the climbers.

Day 4: Little Yosemite to Valley Floor (4.5 miles)
Our final day on the John Muir Trail led us down from Little Yosemite Valley to spectacular Nevada Fall, where the trail splits into the John Muir or the popular Mist Trail. We opted for the Mist Trail in order to glimpse the best views of nearby Vernal Fall, but the steps descending both falls are steep and can be slippery when wet. Be advised that the Mist Trail gets crowded with day hikers, and can be hard to navigate with overnight backpacks. The option of continuing on the John Muir Trail has its own set of disadvantages: it’s a longer route to the valley floor, and more exposed, providing little shade.

Safety on the John Muir Trail and in the Yosemite backcountry:

In addition to dizzying heights, bears, and crowds near the valley floor, backpackers need to be aware of the significant elevation gains to be experienced on the Yosemite section of the John Muir Trail. Elevations reach over 9,000 feet, necessitating plenty of water intake to prevent headaches and nausea. Other wildlife can pose a threat if hikers are not alert, including rattlesnakes — we encountered the biggest we’ve ever seen at Little Yosemite Valley.

Getting to and from Your Car:

Whether you hike the John Muir Trail from the valley floor up or from Tuolumne Meadows down, as we did, you’ll need transportation back to your car at the end of your trip. Yosemite National Park offers free shuttle service throughout the valley, but to travel to Tuolumne or vice versa, you’ll need to take Yarts, a paid shuttle service with stops in Yosemite Village and points throughout Tuolumne. Hikers cannot make reservations in advance for Yarts, and though we were told busses never fill up, that was not the case. Be sure to be at the stop before the allotted time and have cash in hand. One-way tickets were $8 at the time of our visit.

Mexico with kids: family fun Huatulco style

April 5, 2013 By Amy Hagstrom

Guest post written by Travel with Kids

Mexico’s Pacific Riviera has been on the tourist track for decades with popular cities like Acapulco, Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta. But head a bit south in Mexico with kids, and you will find the nine beautiful bays of lesser known Huatulco. The town itself blends old Mexico style, with a huge Spanish colonial church and town square, with laid-back beach style. Outside of town, there are adventure activities to suit any traveler’s style from adrenaline junkie to kick back beach bum. We set out to capture this uniquely styled resort town in an episode of Travel With Kids before it turns into the big city style akin to some of its more popular cousins.

Where to stay in Huatulco:

There are a variety of budget and midrange hotels in town, but town is a five minute drive from good beaches. Lining the bays south of town are upscale, all inclusive hotels. We stayed at Dreams Huatulco Resort & Spa. The four pools, including family pools, and beach front cabanas fit our kids’ style nicely. And the complimentary water trampoline, kayaks, Eurobungee, Kids’ Explorer Club and archery didn’t hit our pocket book, which fit right into our budget.

What to do with kids in Huatulco:

Town was just a short, cheap taxi ride away (less then $3). Here’s what we did:

Scuba Diving: We took the kids on a discover scuba dive with Hurricane Divers. On the way to our dive spot we spotted whales and saved a sea turtle. After prying barnacles from his nose, which impeded his breathing, the turtle dove down from the surface looking happy and healthy again.

Rafting/Tubing: The Copalita River offers Class III–IV rapids in the highlands, but our kids are younger, so, we opted for tubing Class I and II rapids on the lower river. The kids has fun “steering” through “rapids” and playing on the vast empty beach at the end of the trip.

Coffee plantation and waterfall: Although this is a full day trip, it offers a wonderful immersion experience. After driving through small villages on dirt roads, we arrived at a coffee plantation where we dug into an authentic lunch prepared by locals. After a tour of the plantation, we hiked to waterfalls where the kids swung on ropes like Tarzan and caught tadpoles and we all got mud mask facials.

Town: Even if you are staying at an all-inclusive hotel, take time to visit town for a meal, shopping and the family-friendly atmosphere of the town square where families stroll and vendors sell all sorts of kids’ toys. The whole family enjoyed the locally recommended La Crema Pizza, with a hippy vibe and excellent thin crust pizza.

For more information on the trip we booked, visit Apple Vacations.

Travel With Kids is a family travel guide TV show airing on PBS and digital platforms such as iTunes and Hulu. Produced by a traveling family (Carrie and Jeremy and sons Nathan and Seamus), Travel With Kids explores top family destinations and off the tourist track locals in a fun educational presentation for all ages. Now in their 6th season of production, Travel With Kids has visited Europe, Asia, Africa, South America and the USA. More information at http://www.travelwithkids.tv

Big White Dog Sled Tours

January 25, 2013 By Amy Hagstrom

I thoroughly enjoyed every outdoor activity I tried during our family vacation at Big White Ski Resort, but I think flying down a nordic trail pulled by a team of sled dogs was my favorite (don’t tell). I arrived for my Big White dog sledding experience with my mom, a long-time follower of the Iditerod and dog-lover. We met with Tim, Big White’s resident dog musher, and his team of dogs at their kennel situated near the multi-use trails. From the minute we arrived, we were both entranced.

Unlike some sled dogs, Tim’s team is friendly and enthusiastic to meet people, so we were able to become acquainted while Tim gave us some background on the dogs (some of which are retired Iditerod athletes), his mission as a musher, and the kinesiology behind what makes a great sled dog. Some dog sledding ventures will simply put you on a sled and take your money, but as soon as we started talking to Tim, it was obvious that he cares as much about educating guests on sled dogs and the sled dog culture as he does about ensuring you have a great ride.

After learning what the dogs eat (let’s just say they probably eat better than you and me), where they sleep (in cozy crates nested with straw), and whether they get along with one another (better than my kids), Tim started the process of harnessing them for our sledding trip. As soon as he got the slip of paper out of his pocket on which he’d listed today’s ‘line-up’, the previous calm and quiet kennel erupted in noise rivaling that of a soccer stadium after a goal. “No matter if they just ran, they want to run again,” Tim explained, and my mom and I both noted that this canine characteristic–unbridled enthusiasm–is one of the things that makes us love dogs.

With the team finally picked, the dogs on the ‘sideline’ set to wailing and barking while Tim explained to us the process of departing. With a brake set in the snow to prevent the excited dogs from sprinting away immediately (or yesterday, if they had their way), my mom and I settled in the sled and Tim positioned himself on the runners at the back. With one command, the team took off.

The first thing I noticed: how fast we were going. The second: how silent the previously barking dogs had become. We could hear a pin drop (or more accurately, only our own shrieks of joy) as we sailed over the packed snow. I’d never get tired of watching the dogs run before me (and the beautiful Monashee mountain scenery), but halfway through our 5K (3.2 mile) run, Tim slowed the team and stopped them, offering me a turn at the back of the sled.

Tim had warned me that ‘there’s nothing quite like being on the runners’ and he was right. Without any means of stopping or controlling the well-trained dogs, you can truly feel their power as they pull. (Just don’t look down at the snow whizzing by below your boots!)

My mom got her turn ‘behind the wheel’, and before we knew it, we were arriving back at the kennel. Tim showed us how he rewards the team with a tasty frozen meat snack, and we talked more as he unharnessed and praised the dogs. We appreciated how clearly Tim loved his animals, and we came away from the experience with a greater respect for this species, this sport, and the humane people who give it the heart it has.

The details:

Each sled has a weight limit (rather than a person limit), so depending on your family, you might need 1-2 sleds. (Weight limit is 340 pounds.) Until recently, only one sled could depart at a time, but now Tim’s wife is available most days, allowing entire families to sled together. (For reference, my mom and I, two average-sized adults, could easily fit in one sled.) If you have a larger group, bear in mind that you may need to stagger your start times, though you could all enjoy the dogs at the kennel together.

The dog sled experience can be booked nearly any day during the ski season, and reservations can be made ahead of time at the Village Centre Mall Activities Desk and through Central Reservations. Cost is $195 per sled (regardless of number of people). Young kids are welcome, but if some family members would rather not ride, they could come (supervised) with you to visit with the dogs before departure.

Wear ski gear (snow pants, warm gloves, jacket, and googles). A hat or helmet is also recommended, and you’ll need snow boots.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we were hosted for our dog sledding experience. Though we’re grateful for this opportunity to recommend this experience to our readers, it did not come with expectation of a positive review.

Big White Ice Tower Climb: a family activity (yes, really!)

January 23, 2013 By Amy Hagstrom

Among the many unique outdoor activities offered at Big White Ski Resort in Kelowna BC is their 60 foot Ice Tower. The only such tower in North America, this structure is looms as a huge, contoured block of ice in the center of Big White’s Adventure area, and yes, it’s intimidating! But here’s the best part: anyone can try to climb it…no experience necessary!

Ice climbing is normally an unapproachable sport for most people, which makes its inclusion at Big White all the more unique. While most of us have tried (or at least seen) man-made rock climbing walls, seeing an ice tower ready to climb is eye-opening. Looking at it straight up, it’s hard to imagine climbing it halfway, let alone to its pinnacle (where you can ring a bell to signal your victory), but the friendly staff here (as well as your cheering family and bystanders) make it possible.

To start our ice climbing experience, the whole family (yes, everyone…from my husband and me at 38 and 36 to our kids ages 13, 11, and 8) were outfitted with harnesses, ice picks, and ice climbing boots. We then made our way out to the tower, where our ice climbing experts showed us how to use our toe clamp-ons and picks to dig into the ice, and gave us tips (like use your legs, not your arms). We were then paired up with the correct side of the tower (there are varying degrees of difficulty), and took turns ascending.

Here’s how it went:

I won’t lie: it was hard! There were several times when I wasn’t sure where to put my foot or hand, and because the tower is made from frozen water (dripping as it wished), the ‘terrain’ is authentic. I didn’t look down–no way–and needed a few helpful boasts from the ice climber manning my rope (you’re constantly tied in). I made it however (though far behind my 13-year-old, who had youth on his side), and it definitely felt satisfying to ring that bell!

When I descended (repelling on the rope), my arms were shaky…clearly I hadn’t followed the ‘use your legs’ advice. My whole family made a strong effort, and my 11-year-old even made the whole climb with the use of only one arm (his right is broken and in a cast). This feat put him on the Big White Ice Tower record board, of which he was very proud.

We all came away from the experience feeling on top of the world, having tried something completely new to all of us. I met with the owner of the tower, who reinforced that this is not unusual: he wanted to build the tower so that people could be introduced to the sport of ice climbing. If you get a taste for it, daily and season passes are available: many seasoned climbers use the tower as practice between climbs.

The details:

A single climb is only $20, and comes with all equipment needed. The Ice Tower is located in the Adventure zone area of Big White, adjacent to the Happy Valley Day Lodge. (And across from the Mega Coaster tubing area.) If not all family members are up for a climb, kids can be tubing while parents climb, or vice versa…though you’ll want to watch, trust me!

As I disclose whenever applicable, we climbed Big White’s Ice Tower as guests of Big White. While appreciated, this compensation did not come with expectation of a positive review.

Hiking in Tofino BC: Visiting Meares Island with Remote Passages

August 22, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

For families looking for a budget-friendly Tofino excursion or are simply low on time, Remote Passages offers a 1.5 hour round-trip Vancouver Island hiking adventure of Big Tree Trail on nearby Meares Island.

Hiking in Tofino:

Located just a few fun Zodiac boat turns from the Remote Passages boat dock, Meares Island is uninhabited and protected by a local First Nations land conservation agency. Remote Passages (and several other local outfits, including Tofino Water Taxi) will drop passengers off at the start of a 400 meter (approximately 1/4 mile) boardwalk, which families follow self-guided as it winds deep into the temperate rain forest.

The boardwalk is old in some places (originally built in the ’80s and quite weather-beaten), new in others (you can smell the fresh cedar), so kids shouldn’t run. We saw one visitor put his foot straight through a rotted plank. We met several of the First Nations Meares Island protectors while we hiked; they were working on upgrades to the boardwalk, and were very eager to tell us about their work preserving this island. The way can be slippery at times, unstable in others, and always majestically beautiful. For young kids, it truly feels like an adventure, and older kids will enjoy the constant challenge of the walk.

As you go, you’re looking for several points of interest. Near the start of the boardwalk stands a 900-year-old red cedar, and farther along, a small creek crossing leads to a set of stairs and a small lookout over a narrow bay. Look for kayakers coming in to hike the island here. A little farther on, you arrive at the end of the trail, which features the oldest cedar: 1600 years old. It’s called the Hanging Garden, and it’s easy to see why: trees are shooting out of this tree, and dropping from nearly all branches are ferns and other beautiful hanging plants. The sunlight filters through, and it’s truly a awe-inspiring sight.

Remote Passages gives visitors 1.5 hours to tour the island, which may be a bit long, since the boardwalk really only takes 45 minutes to tour, and visitors are asked not to explore off the walk (in order to preserve vegetation). Our kids enjoyed navigating part of the boardwalk a second time while we waited, or you could find a spot in the sun (or under the canopy of trees out of the rain, as they case may be) by the docking area.

Tip: Be sure to pack all trash out, and don’t allow children to climb on the trunks of the trees; they’re working hard to protect them. Bring rain gear or light jackets, but this is a great activity for when the weather is rainy; the canopy will shield you! The boat ride to and from is only 5 minutes, but will be a thrill for young kids if they haven’t experienced the small and fast Zodiac boat yet.

Date last visited:

July 2012

Distance from the interstate:

Right off Highway 4 in Tofino.

Rates:

The Meares Island transfer is a quite affordable way to have a fun boat ride and great hike you can’t access otherwise. At the time of my visit, rates were $20 per person for the drop-off/pick-up for kids and adults. If you’re more ambitious, Remote Passages offers a half-day kayaking tour that includes a guided walk through Meares Island. Kids don’t have to be strong paddlers, but should be old enough to spend the whole morning or afternoon on the water.

Directions:

Find Remote Passages at the bottom of Wharf Street at Meares Landing, right in the heart of Tofino.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my family and I experienced Meares Island at no charge, for the purpose of review. While I appreciate this opportunity to pass on information to my readers, it came with no expectation of a positive review.

Tofino on Dwellable

Tofino whale watching with Remote Passages

August 20, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

I’d heard the West Coast of Vancouver Island called the Galapagos of the Northwest, and never is that more apparent than while on the water, whether families are exploring tide pools, kayaking, or in this case, on the open ocean on a Remote Passages whale watch in Tofino BC.

Tofino whale watching:

Our Tofino whale watch with Remote Passages just may have been the crown jewel on the treasure that was our Vancouver Island trip. Over 2 1/2 hours long, they call it a Whale Watch Plus, and once you’ve experienced it, it’s obvious why: not only did we enjoy a gray and humpback whale watch, but also observed seals, sea lions, sea otters, puffins, sea stars, bald eagles, and jellyfish (and I’m probably forgetting something). We were there in time to ‘meet’ Tofino’s resident whales, but in migratory seasons, they’re even more abundant (and can include orcas). Note: all photos in this post are actual documentation of wildlife viewed, taken by me.

In addition to the abundance of wildlife viewed, what set our Remote Passages whale watch apart from any we’d experienced before is their Zodiac boat transportation and their guide expertise. Zodiacs seat only 12-14 passengers, and are open-air (a closed cabin one is available as well), allowing for unobstructed 360 degree views of the bay, harbor, and open sea. Unlike larger whale watch vessels, in which one side of the boat sees a spout and the other misses out (or runs scrambling to see), on a Zodiac, you’re literally right on the water, able to see everything. (This makes it ideal for young kids.)

Our experience started at 8:30 am for our 9 am whale watch, during which we were shown an orientation video that described the wildlife and ecosystem of the Tofino area and the Clayoquot Sound. We then donned full expedition jump suits for our journey. These are a full jacket and pant combo, so guests don’t really need to worry about what to wear on their whale watch. Just make sure you’re in sturdy shoes and have a light sweatshirt or long-sleeved shirt on under. The adult version has a built-in life jacket, and the kids’ version is a two-part ensemble: pants and jacket, with a regular life jacket on over. Remote Passages also offers fleece gloves and knit hats if desired.

Our captain and guide, Tyson, guided us onto the Zodiac, where we all had a perfect view of the ocean and surrounding (breathtaking) landscape. We cruised first in-between the small islands dotted around the sound, where Tyson stopped to show us the huge kelp beds whales like to feed on. Almost immediately, we saw the spout of a gray whale. Since whales typically spout and rise above the water 3-4 times before diving deep, we stayed close to view it for about 15 minutes, cutting off the engine and floating peacefully as we watched the whale rise and fall beautifully. I can’t tell you how wonderful it was for Toby, age 7, to be able to see the whale so easily; he’s usually scrambling for a better view for things like this, since he’s the shortest person in most groups. There was no stress to see, no rush to get anywhere, and we all just oohed and awed as Tyson told us more about these amazing animals. (Fun fact: many of the same whales return to Tofino year after year, and up to 200 stay here all season while their counterparts migrate farther north. Remote Passages guides can identify individual whales by the pattern of their barnacles on their backs. The kids had fun learning their names…yes, they name them!)

After a time, we left our friendly gray whale to explore more of the outer islands, where we could float right up near the rocky shore to spot jellies, sea stars, and an whole colony of seals. We watched their heads pop out of the water mere feet from us, and observed a dispute between two males on the rocks. Farther on, we sat still to photograph a set of four puffins floating on the sea, and caught a rare glimpse of a sea otter.

We headed out to open ocean in search of humpback whales, and were rewarded with four, two of which were a mother and calf. Tyson explained that ‘humpies’ were more likely to ‘fluke’ (show their tales as they dive deep), which we saw several times. We hung out with them for a time before needing to head back to the dock.

We had fine weather, but should you not, the small size of the Zodiac still allows for good viewing, though the water may be choppier. The suits keep you very warm, even in the wind while the boat is moving fast (though you’ll definitely want the gloves in cold weather). Once you return to the dock, hot peppermint tea awaits you.

Tips: You’ll want everyone in your party to be wearing sunscreen on their faces, and sunglasses are helpful. No matter the weather, the glare from the water is significant. Hats may fly off; I suggest using their knit caps that stay on better. The water was smooth they day of our visit, but if it’s choppy, captains carry seasickness remedies. We told ours that Calvin was prone, and he checked on him several times to make sure he wasn’t uncomfortable. (He was fine.)