Adventures - Pitstops for Kids

Multi-night river rafting on the Tuolumne River

August 31, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

The Tuolumne River near Yosemite National Park is one of the most pristine and exciting rivers I’ve experienced. But is river rafting safe during COVID-19? My fifteen-year-old son and I rafted the Tuolumne River for three days with OARS, and not only did we have the usual amazing time on the river I’ve come to expect from an OARS trip, but we felt safe and responsible, too.

All of our OARS trips include the same basic formula: clean mountain air + clean river water + starry skies and lots of adventure. Our three day, two night trip on the Tuolumne included all of the above, plus some additional safety measures that had been put into place.

Instead of flying, we drove to the meeting place from Southern Oregon (about a 7 hour drive) and stayed overnight in charming Groveland, California near the entrance of Yosemite National Park at the Groveland Hotel, which I highly recommend for their friendly hospitality, ample outdoor deck space with in-house dining, and whiskey bar (yes, really!).

The next morning, we met with our group of 12 additional rafters and trip leader, Rebecca, then boarded an OARS bus for the 45 minute drive to the put-in on the Tuolumne. We began experiencing the COVID-19 safety measures immediately.

How OARS makes river rafting safe during COVID-19

Before arrival, every guest filled out a health check-list and survey.
At the pre-trip meeting, everyone’s temperature was checked.
Everyone’s temp was checked every day of the trip thereafter.
Face coverings were worn by all on the bus and any other enclosed space, plus the kitchen area of camp every day.
Face coverings were also worn any time guests from separate families/parties interacted at a distance of less than six feet, such as in rafts, while setting up camp, etc.
Individuals were assigned all gear, including tents, pads, chairs, and sleeping bags…no swapping.
The OARS crew always wore face coverings while preparing food and setting up camp, and hand washing was mandatory for ALL multiple times per day.
Hugs were banned, but hand waves and air kisses sufficed!
Hand sanitizer, soap, and water for hand washing were available at all times.

Face coverings like Buffs double as eye masks during raft naps!

What you can ALWAYS expect from OARS on the Tuolumne

Whitewater, whitewater, whitewater! This river is technical and fast-moving, and offers a lot of Class IV and Class V rapids. As such, guests spend their time in paddle boats instead of individual IKs (inflatable kayaks, a.k.a ‘duckies’). At first my teen was bummed to not be able to man his own IK, but we agreed that the thrill of the whitewater made paddle-boating more fun than usual.

The river’s water level is controlled by daily releases from Hetch-Hetchy dam, which adds a particular challenge: your start time on the river might change daily based on how much water is flowing. For instance, on day 1, the water was released at 10 am, and we were off and floating. The last day, it wasn’t flowing until 3 pm, which meant we hiked and swam first.

Each day, we camped at another iconic location along the river, with views of foothills, eagles and hawks, and whitewater. The banks of this river are exposed and the sun beats down hot, but the river water is cold, so you’ll be refreshed often!

Our guides took us on side hikes up canyons and creek beds every day, where we were delighted by swimming holes and jumping rocks. Each hike was more ‘canyoneering’ than walking, so river shoes with good traction are a must. The hikes are short in length, however, and definitely worth the effort.

Each meal was carefully prepared for us by our OARS crew, and we dined on salmon, steak, eggs, bacon, French toast, fresh fruit, salad wraps, and more. Two beers or soft drinks per person, per night are included, as well as wine at dinner. Guests are free to bring their own additional beverages as desired, to be consumed in camp (not on the river).

If you have more generalized questions, or need camping, packing, or ‘grover’ (portable camp toilet) advice, please see our post on what to expect on every OARS trip.

Perhaps best of all about a Tuolumne River trip, you’re in close proximity to Yosemite! I highly recommend pairing your OARS adventure with some time exploring Yosemite National Park.

Summer in the Berkshires: Zoar Outdoor river rafting

August 27, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

The largest of three area river rafting outfitters, Zoar Outdoor offers all levels of tours down the scenic Deerfield River, from family float trips to advanced whitewater day trips. Located in beautiful Charlemont in the heart of Massachusetts’ Berkshires, Zoar is one part family resort (tent cabins and lodge rooms are available), one part adventure center (guests can try their skill on the climbing wall, bike, hike, and zip line while visiting), and one part rafting outfit.

During a time when many vacations are not possible, outdoor activities offer the ability to safely social distance, especially if families road trip or are visiting locally. Hotels.com asked me to share my favorite activities and tips for exploring the Berkshires, so start here as you plan a safe and responsible vacation.

Where to stay in the Berkshires: Lodging is available throughout the Berkshires and I would have loved to experience a night or two in this beautiful location! The town of Lenox has the most options available, which puts families close to Jiminy Peak ski area, which offers up fun in all seasons.

We visited Zoar on a late June afternoon for their Family Float Trip, which departed at 3:15 pm and ended at approximately 7 pm, and included a picnic dinner on the river, provided by Zoar. Depending on how many guests have reserved space on the trip, tours may depart with several rafts in the party or just one; on the afternoon of our trip, we were a solitary raft seating six guests and one guide.

Our guide, Matt, was a natural on the river, having grown up on the Deerfield, floating and rafting from an early age. One of over 50 well-trained Zoar guides, Matt was a wealth of information about the local natural landscape and wildlife (as well as what to do with kids in the area). Clearly skilled at his job, it was a pleasure to spend our hours on the river with him. The kids agreed; they loved the ways in which he kept what could have been a sleepy river float an adventure. Matt made sure we found all the ‘white water’ we could, stopped in the deeper pools for swimming opportunities, and taught the kids a great game that involved balancing on the edge of the raft while he spun it in circles. (Oh, and he knew to hide the cookies at dinner until everyone had eaten their sandwiches and salad.)

The family float trip covers over eight and a half miles of river, stopping for a dinner of sandwiches (which guests can fix for themselves from an array of cold cuts, veggies, and condiments), pasta salad and salsa and chips (made fresh daily), cookies, lemonade, and water. The entire experience was very peaceful; I don’t know whether it was the time of evening our trip departed or just luck, but we were the only raft on the water through miles of quiet twists and turns, lovely green river banks, and great views. It was the perfect length and rafting level for families with young kids in tow (minimum age is five), and yet was still entertaining for my 12 and nine year olds. If everyone in your party is over age six, the Zoar Gap tour, with a minimum age of seven, might be an even better fit. It covers a different section of the same river, and adds more white water elements.

There’s no need to bring anything with you; Zoar suggests locking valuables in your car, then holds your keys for you in a lock box to prevent losing them to the river. I brought my water-resistant camera with me (at my own risk), and in hindsight, would have dressed the kids in long-sleeved shirts or sweatshirts under their floatation devices (which they could have taken off if needed), because after swimming in the Deerfield, they did get a bit chilled. Other than that, we needed nothing but sunglasses, sunscreen, and swimming attire or shorts and t-shirts.

Directions: Zoar Outdoor is located at 7 Main Street, Charlemont, MA. From I-91, take the Greenfield exit (26), then exit onto MA-2 Mohawk Trail. Follow MA-2 approximately 17 miles to Zoar.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced the Deerfield River as guests of Zoar Outdoor. While we appreciate their hospitality, this compensation came with no expectation of a positive review. We have a partnership with Hotels.com, which allows us to keep our activity reviews front and center.

Black Hills mountain biking for families

August 6, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

The Black Hills of South Dakota never fail to surprise…and impress. This western region of South Dakota is known as the home of Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, and of course, for its Wild West history (Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane called the Black Hills home). More recently, however, the Black Hills have been recognized as an emerging mountain biking region, known for its amazing range of trails that includes everything from accessible paths and great beginner terrain for families to more advanced trails for avid bikers . Here’s where to go…

Mickelson Trail

Families looking to add some mountain biking to their Black Hills road trip or vacation should start with the Mickelson Trail. This 109-mile trail curves through several Black Hills historic towns, including Deadwood, Hill City, and Custer. It’s a rail trail, which means it follows an abandoned railroad line, and is therefore a good grade for family riding (in other words, it’s not too steep).

There are 15 trailheads at which you can start your rail trail journey, assuming you’re not going to do the whole thing. Along the way, trestle bridges and rail tunnels add fun for kids, and the scenery is always gorgeous as the trail cuts through the limestone and granite of the Black Hills. It’s easy to follow the Mickelson Trail for a full day, stopping for a nice lunch and some sightseeing en route.

We recommend: Take the section from Hill City to Custer, which is about 15 miles from the Burlington Northern Hill City trailhead to the Harbach Park trailhead in Custer. This map is a useful planning tool.

Alkali Creek Trail

Families who have intermediate riders and are ready for a bigger challenge than the flat Mickelson Trail may want to try Alkali Creek. The entire length of the trail is 18 miles, but there’s not too much elevation gain. From I-90, you’ll want to take exit 34 near Black Hills National Cemetery, turn right (north) and follow the road for about one mile. For a bigger challenge, try Terry Peak, which is located past Deadwood by the Terry Peak Ski Area in the town of Lead.

Hanson-Larsen Memorial Park Trail Network

For families with beginner and intermediate riders who want a trail system that has a bit of everything, and is based close to Rapid City, the Hanson-Larsen network is located just outside town and offers great views of the city. Head up Skyline Drive to find it (park at Founders Park on Omaha), and be ready for some elevation gains and losses. The circuits are short however, allowing families to tailor the length of the ride to suit. Note: The Skyline Drive Trail is located just past Dinosaur Park in Rapid City, but its trails are more advanced.

Where To Rent Bikes

For families not road tripping with their mountain bikes, there are numerous places to rent bikes while on vacation in the Black Hills. We rented bikes at Rabbit Bicycles in Hill City because this shop is directly on the Mickelson Trail, making it very easy to go from renting to riding. They also offer a shuttle service for families who want to go one way on the trail and then be transported back.

Alternatives certainly exist: If you think you’ll want to ride bikes in many locations, and are flying or driving into Rapid City, consider renting at ACME Bicycles or Black Hills Bicycles in Rapid City. We also noted rental locations in Spearfish and Sturgis.

Tip: Make sure everyone in the family has a properly fitting helmet while riding, as well as shin guards and arm pads for single track (not necessary on the Mickelson Trail). We recommend G-Form pads.

This post was written in partnership with Travel South Dakota, and based on my personal experience in the Black Hills region. Interested in traveling to South Dakota? Get a free travel guide!

Main Salmon River rafting trip with O.A.R.S.

August 3, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

The best—and nearly only—way to experience the 2.3 million acre Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness of Central Idaho is by whitewater raft down the Main Salmon River. The route along the Wild and Scenic section of the Salmon runs 80 miles and requires extensive whitewater experience and permits…or can be booked with an adventure outfitter like O.A.R.S.

Why choose the Main Salmon with O.A.R.S.?

The O.A.R.S. Main Salmon River trip takes five nights, six days and delivers families through pristine high desert and forested wilderness. Multiple outfitters take this course, but we recommend O.A.R.S for many reasons, including stellar guest service, the comfort of good food and camps, and river expertise.

The Salmon River remains undammed for over 400 miles, and the Frank Church Wilderness is alive with prehistoric, native, and pioneering history, as well as wildlife. O.A.R.S. guides are knowledgeable about both, able to educate guests along the way with nature talks, history lessons, and wildlife spotting. If that’s not enough for you, this O.A.R.S. itinerary employs no fewer than five modes of transportation down the river: guests can ride in an oar boat, dory, paddleboat, inflatable kayak (called a ducky), or stand-up paddle board (SUP).

What to expect on the Main Salmon:

All five nights along the Main Salmon with O.A.R.S. are spent on sandy beach campsites along the river, with tents and sleeping bags and pads provided. Guests start the trip in McCall, Idaho, where a pre-trip meeting takes place the night before departure. This is the time to ask last-minute questions, get your dry bags to pack belongings in, and meet your trip leader. During our meeting, we met Trip Leader Diego, as well as the other guests on the trip. Diego gave us a weather report—our trip would be hot and dry—and final tips on packing—we’d need two water bottles each, plus lots of sun protection. Our trip included 11 guests total: my multigenerational family of two teens, myself, and my father, plus one more father and son, one mother with two sons, and one couple. In total, we had five kids ages 12-16 and six adults.

The next morning, our trip started at 7 am with an amazing chartered flight from McCall to Salmon, Idaho in 2-8 passenger planes. We watched out the windows as the rugged peaks and mountain meadows passed below us, knowing we were essentially being deposited into our wilderness area. From Salmon, a rather brutally long bus ride took us to the put-in point along the river, where we were set to depart at the start of the Wild and Scenic section at Corn Creek. We stopped along the way of this two-hour ride at a small store where we could purchase any extra drinks we’d like on the trip. O.A.R.S. provides enough soda, wine, and beer for guests to have approximately two drinks per evening; extra is allowed in moderation. We could also grab any extra items we’d forgotten at this point, such as batteries, sunscreen, sunglasses, or water bottles. All extra drink purchases become communal unless requested otherwise.

Once we arrived at Corn Creek, we met the rest of our guides who’d be joining us for our week on the Salmon. We had a great crew, as I always have with O.A.R.S.: guides Amber, Morris, and Prester, as well as college-aged gear guides (rowing only gear, not guests) Rose and Dakota. All are essential to the trip and all interact with the guests. We got dialed in on rafting safety (Day 1 of any trip includes multiple talks on protocol and safety) and were on the river before lunch.

We rafted only an hour or so before stopping to eat on a sandy bank, during which we learned about dining protocol—hand washing, water bottle filling, and trash clean up—and were introduced to the inflatable kayak ‘duckies’. These solo-passenger rafts are popular but require just a bit of skill. Anyone wanting to raft the river in duckies needed to take a ‘swim test’ before we left the lunch spot. This test involves paddling the ducky in an eddy, purposely flipping it over, and getting oneself back in in deep water. This sounds intimidating, but with tips from the guides, everyone in our group who took the test, from the teens to the grandfather, passed.

We rafted another three hours or so, navigating through our first rapids, Killum, Gunbarrel, and Rainer, before landing at our first night’s camp. Here, we learned all about camping protocol, including how to create a ‘fire line’ to off-load the boats of gear (everyone helps) to how to set up our tents and where to find our sleep kits (which included sleeping bags, tarps, and pillows). We also became acquainted with the ‘Unit’ at this point, sometimes called the ‘Groover’. This portable toilet system is required by all rafting parties on the river as part of the Leave No Trace principles followed. It takes some getting used to if you don’t spend a lot of time in the outdoors, but embrace the Unit: after all, it’s the only option.

After setting up camp, we found ample time to play, swim, and get to know one another better through conversation over cold beers and sodas. Our guides surprised us with several beach toys brought out from the depths of the boats, including frisbee games and a fun washer game similar to horseshoes. A salmon dinner was followed by more community time around the ‘circle’ (of chairs), where adults conversed and kids brought out card games. Around 8 pm, the summer heat was broken by a spectacular thunderstorm and hail storm: we all dug out rain jackets and scurried to the sanctuary of our tents to wait it out. For most of us, this was the only night on the trip we didn’t sleep out under the stars and bright moon.

The next morning, the coffee call came around 7 am, followed by breakfast of huckleberry pancakes, sausage, and fruit at 8 am. We packed up camp around 8:30, filled up our water bottles with filtered river water, and were back on the boats before 9 am. The next five days followed the same general routine: coffee call, breakfast, camp breakdown, rowing on the water interspersed with challenging rapids, hikes to historic points, or wildlife, lunch, more river time, arrival at camp, playtime both in the water and on the sand, appetizers and drinks, dinner, and community time. As guests, we set up our own tents and helped on and offload boats, but never cooked or planned any of the itinerary.

Each day on the river brought something new: on Day 2, we floated past a hot springs (and would have stopped had the temperature not been nudging 100 degrees) and stopped to look at Native American petroglyphs, on Day 3, we toured a historic cabin and ranch once owned by river legend Jim Moore, on Day 4, we stopped at hermit Buckskin Bill’s homestead and store, and on Day 5, we hiked a short distance to an old-growth yew tree grove and the foundation of a Chinese mining claim.

Each morning and at each lunch break, guests can decide which type of raft to ride in or paddle: I liked to alternate between the paddle raft, where guests help paddle, the dory, which sits higher on the water and cuts through rapids with precision and grace, and the duckies, which takes more concentration with bigger rewards. When we needed a break, we could sit back and relax on a gear boat, rowed by guide Morris, who regaled his passengers with stories and tales. The kids gravitated to Morris’ boat as well, but mostly clamored for time in the duckies and on the SUP (allowed in small rapids and riffles, after kids have proven themselves).

Evening entertainment took on varied forms as well: we played games of ultimate frisbee and card games, played in the water during kayak wars and SUP practice, and even made a ‘raft slide’ of an overturned paddle raft. During two magical evenings, we were treated to talks by the campfire circle on local history and conservation by geology teacher turned river guide Morris. Meals were excellent and varied from Day 1 to Day 6, and to a person, our six guides were hard working, fun-loving, and responsible.

By Day 3, we’d hit a stride of river life that truly fell into pace with the current. Without screens or smart phones, we slowly felt the tethers of day-to-day demands fall away, to be replaced by a quiet rhythm of sunshine, river water, and fun companionship. By Day 6, we felt so acclimated to river life it felt odd to return to civilization: trucks on the road overlooking the river on the last day felt jarring after so many days without the sound of them and day trippers felt like intruders. While we were ready for a shower and to call loved ones with news of our trip, we never felt uncomfortable on the river: with some much time in the water, we didn’t feel as dirty or grimy as we might backpacking.

Tips for a successful O.A.R.S. trip:

Remember you’re in a communal environment. This means helping out with gear, respecting rules and people, being considerate (please don’t cut in line at lunch or take the best tent site every night), and acting to keep rafts and camp clean and safe. O.A.R.S. makes sure a hand-washing station (a rather ingenious bucket and hose contraption) is available before every meal and at every ‘bathroom’ location, and everyone is expected to use it to keep germs at a minimum in such an intimate environment. Parents, don’t just do all the above yourself; teach kids to follow rules and be considerate as well.
Expect to follow Leave No Trace guidelines. This means all trash, even ‘micro-trash’ such as table scraps, must be disposed of in the designated containers, because everything packed in will be packed out. It also means you’ll be expected to follow Unit protocol, which does have some rules involved. For instance, liquid waste goes in a different place than solid waste, as does toilet paper and feminine products. Yes, this is gross to think about, but the sooner you leave your inhibitions behind, the better. The Unit is always set up in a discrete place at camp, and while it’s odd to go to the restroom in a place without walls or a door, it affords a beautiful view, and there’s a system to ensure some privacy. Wondering what the ‘Unit’ is, exactly? It’s a metal bucket with a toilet seat attached, which can be seated shut between camps. Does it smell? Not as badly as a pit toilet or port-a-potty. Is plumbing preferable? Sure, but it’s better than being the cause of waste left in camps that will be used by numerous rafters all summer.
Follow the packing list. Our trip was a hot one, with days over 100 degrees, but I was still glad to have my rain gear when we encountered that thunderstorm. And you never know when the weather will change, so you can bet I had my fleece and base layers at the bottom of my bag, albeit untouched.
Don’t expect showers, cell service, or cold water in your water bottle, though you can expect excellent, fresh food and cold drinks at the end of each day. It’s amazing what can be packed into the O.A.R.S. coolers: we had steak on our last night, and fresh nectarines our last morning.
Bring two sun hats and two pairs of sunglasses each. Sunglasses get lost or broken easily, and sun hats are just to precious to be without. Sunscreen is crucial as well, of course.
Don’t expect O.A.R.S. to control the weather or the river (though you can expect them to navigate it with expertise). The natural elements of any river trip must be respected.
Expect rules. There’s an inherent danger in any whitewater rafting trip, and while many freedoms are afforded on the water and in camp, rules are in place for a reason. We found that when we proved to our guides that our teens would listen to and respect rules right from Day 1, more privileges were granted. We love rafting with O.A.R.S. because we feel safe, but not coddled. Our boys were able to push themselves on the water, rafting every rapid in duckies if they wished, and some on the SUP. They were able to explore around camp and even sleep solo on a beach around the corner from us. They loved the freedoms they’d earned.

A comparison of O.A.R.S. Salmon River to O.A.R.S. Rogue River:

Both river trips are excellent family trips, though the Salmon requires kids be age 12 and up in high water (spring and early summer). Both offer 5-6 day trips filled with incredible scenery, though the Salmon is largely high desert and canyon while the Rogue is more heavily forested with more dramatic canyon walls. We found the same level of guide service on both rivers.

On the Salmon, the trip begins with the scenic flight from McCall, a bonus treat, and includes rafting on dories in addition to rafts. Duckies and SUPs can be found on both rivers.

Ready to book? Get more generalized O.A.R.S. booking tips and read our Rogue River report.

As we disclose whenever applicable, we experienced the Salmon River as guests of O.A.R.S., for the purpose of review.

Black Hills Road Trip Itinerary: Exploring South Dakota’s Wild Side

July 9, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

When families ask me where they can find outdoor adventure, beautiful scenery, American history, and affordable accommodations, the Black Hills of South Dakota are at the top of my list. The first time I visited the Black Hills, I was blown away, and I feel just as passionate about this family-friendly destination today. Located on the western end of the state, the Black Hills are within easy driving distance of Rapid City, or can be accessed via I-90 on a cross-country road trip.

Black Hills Road Trip Itinerary

From Rapid City, your Black Hills road trip should take you about a week, though families could of course take longer if desired. It’s easy to tent or RV camp in the area during the summer months, but a nice aspect of the Black Hills is the availability of affordable travel lodges, roadside motels, and cabins.

Start By Exploring Wild West Towns

Day 1-2: Drive about a hour from Rapid City to Deadwood, home of Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, and Seth Bullock. Parents, you may have seen the HBO show by the same name. Deadwood doesn’t disappoint, with a historic downtown and multiple museums. Stroll the main street, stopping at Saloon 10, where Wild Bill was shot to death by Jack McCall more than a century ago. Kids will enjoy the sawdust on the floor and the historical photos on the walls, and the saloon is open to minors until late evening. Families can also visit the cemetery where Calamity Jane and the others are buried. Stay at any number of affordable Deadwood hotels, augmenting your history tour with some outdoor recreation on the nearby Mickelson Trail, a gravel-paved bike path and rail trail that winds from Deadwood 109 miles through the Black Hills. Read more about Deadwood activities for families.
Day 3: From Deadwood, drive south on Highway 385 to Keystone. This town is best known as the gateway to Mount Rushmore, and as such, is more touristy than historic. Instead of staying the night here, stop to enjoy a few family-friendly activities, like the Rushmore Tramway Adventures, then spend a few hours of the day at Mount Rushmore National Memorial. In the evening, drive on to the small Wild West town of Custer.

Day 4: Families will find lots to do in Custer, starting with the downtown area’s historic buildings and shops. Eat at the Purple Pie Place or Black Hills Burger and Bun (Tripadvisor’s #1 Burger joint in the entire US in 2014, #2 in 2015). For outdoor adventure, 3,000 miles of ATV trails crisscross the Black Hills, and Black Hills ATV Adventures can guide you along some of them just outside of Custer. The Mickelson Trail also goes through Custer and nearby Hill City. Hill City is a good place to rent bikes for the trail for a full or half-day adventure. Stay the night at either Custer Gulch Resort outside of town, or more centrally located Rock Crest Lodge. Read more about Custer activities for families.

Step Into Outdoor Adventure

Day 5: Dedicate this day to exploring Custer State Park, which many believe to be worthy of national park status. This massive park deserves at least two days of your time. It can be accessed from Custer, allowing you to stay in town, or families can camp or stay in cabins within the park. Begin with an overview of the park via the Needles Highway Scenic Drive (part of the Peter Norbeck National Scenic Byway). Kids will love going through rock wall tunnels and around hairpin turns (take it slow!). Keep your eye out for mountain goats and bison along the drive. Next, check out one of the lakes in the park for some water recreation; Sylvan Lake rents watercraft and has a family-friendly swimming area. After getting some energy out, take the Wildlife Loop Road to see the buffalo corrals and prairie dog town at the other end of the park.
Day 6: The next day, head out on a few hikes. Sturdy hikers will want to tackle Black Elk Peak (formerly Harney Peak), a strenuous seven-mile round trip hike to a lookout tower with exceptional views. The less ambitious can try Cathedral Spires (only three miles round trip) or Badger Clark Historic Trail, which gives an overview of the human history of the park. Read more about Custer State Park.

End In Rapid City

Rapid City is a fun, small city worth exploring for a day in its own right. It has a recently renovated downtown area, fun eateries, and inventive and artsy shops. There’s even a family-friendly pub and winery in a firehouse!

Ready to explore? Sign up for a free vacation guide.

This post was written in partnership with Travel South Dakota. Get more Black Hills travel ideas here.

Iceland camper van road trip tips

July 7, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Iceland has become a popular family vacation destination for many reasons: it is every bit as breathtakingly beautiful as it looks in photographs, there’s essentially no language barrier, it’s extremely family-friendly, and the outdoor recreation and sightseeing is almost endless.

What Iceland is not: cheap. Standard hotels can cost families as much as $400 per night on top of expensive rental car fees (especially if you need a 4×4 car for rough roads). Dining in Iceland is very expensive as well; fast food meals at a basic grill during the time of our 2017 trip were about $15 U.S. per person, and standard sit-down restaurant meals were closer to $45-50 per person. The solution: take an Iceland camper van road trip and combine your lodging and car rental cost and eliminate your restaurant dining out cost. Ready for Iceland camper van road trip tips? Let’s get started!

Start with your camper van rental:

The first stage of planning your Iceland road trip is booking your camper van rental. We used Kuku Campers, one of the largest camper van rental companies in Iceland. Kuku Campers offers just about every size and type of camper van, ranging from small vans that sleep 2-3 people to the larger style we rented, which sleeps five (both are Class C, which don’t require any additional training or know-how to drive). You can also opt between 2×2 or 4×4.

Kuku 2×2 category C camper

We picked this 2×2 van for five people (click on the link to see detailed interior photos) which cost approximately $1800 for nine days ($200 per night). This cost was significantly less than we’d spend on hotels and a rental car. Kuku Campers offers this van in standard (stick shift) or automatic. We opted for standard, as it was cheaper, and I am comfortable driving a stick shift.

Note: Do you need a 4×4 vehicle? If you’re a regular reader of Pit Stops for Kids, you know we’re a pretty adventurous family. We rented a 2×2 van, and were able to access everything we wanted, and more. You need a 4×4 vehicle only if you plan to drive F roads (Iceland’s most rugged dirt roads), which is needed if you plan to backpack or hike deep in the interior.

The features and configuration of our camper van:

In the front were two bucket seats (the driver’s seat and the front passenger seat). Behind those seats was the kitchen area: a countertop/food prep surface with sink and faucet, storage area for a portable stove/cook top, electric refrigerator (which runs when the car is running), dishes and kitchen utensils and silverware, a large water storage container, and a pantry area for food. Behind the kitchen was the main compartment of the van, which had a padded bench seat in a U shape, surrounded by a roomy kitchen table. Above this was a sleeping bunk. At night, the table and bench seat easily folded down to become a second sleeping area. The bottom slept three, and the top slept two. During the day, passengers could sit on the bench seat with seatbelt while the van was on the road.

Lots of space: to the front of this photo would be the kitchen area.

In addition to the running water, which ran from a hose from the water container to the kitchen sink, the van had two overhead lights and a nighttime heater (which could be run when the van was turned off). There is no bathroom in the van, but this isn’t a problem (we’ll get to that soon). We found sufficient storage in the van for our bags under the bench seats and at the very back of the van, in addition to smaller storage areas above the front seats and above the kitchen. Lastly, there were useful hooks to hold jackets and rain pants, as well as curtains to pull around the windows at night. These hung on elastic cords, which we used to hang additional items like wet towels and swimsuits.

But was the van hard to drive?

At first, a little bit, yes. I don’t ever drive anything larger than a minivan at home, so for me, it took a day to get comfortable driving something taller and wider. Icelandic roads are narrower than US roads, so there is definitely a learning curve. I also needed time to get used to backing up the van (though it was far easier than trying to back up a van with a trailer). By Day 2, I was quite comfortable. Overall, driving the van was no big deal, even on dirt and gravel roads, though the van certainly got dirty!

Stopping to make a snack and take photos on a gravel road. There are plenty of turn-outs to use!

The van took diesel fuel, which seemed to be easily available at every gas station, and it cost me about $160 to fill the tank. We drove for eight days, I filled up twice and topped off once, and I spent a total of $360 on gas. At all campgrounds and parking lots for trails, scenic overlooks, and historic sites, there was ample room to park the van. The only place I had trouble navigating parking was in downtown Reykjavik, and even there, I managed (but it was stressful).

Next plan your trip! Here’s what to expect:

I’m going to say something now that I never say on this site: don’t over-plan. If you allow your itinerary to stay flexible, you’ll be able to advantage of all the many moments of spontaneity possible in Iceland. There are natural wonders and historic sites every few kilometers at times; you can’t do it all, but you can decide what to do in the moment. We planned a general route which included the south, west, and east. We purposely didn’t travel the entire Ring Road because with only eight full days on the road, we wanted to spend more time on side roads than Route 1.

Waterfall at the base of one of our campsites.

I absolutely loved having our Kuku Camper, because of the freedom it offered. Every day, we traveled WITH our lodging and dining, so we never had to worry about getting to an exact place to eat or sleep each night. In Iceland, especially in the rural areas (which is most areas), we found that restaurants and shops closed relatively early in the day, even in the peak of summer. We were hard pressed to find dining options open after 6 pm, so we loved the ability to picnic our meals anytime, anyplace. We got into a routine of making breakfast in our camper at the campground in the morning, making a picnic or packed lunch to enjoy out and about, and then stopping at one of Iceland’s many, many scenic overlooks to BBQ or cook our dinner on the road. We arrived at each campground at night well-fed and ready to make camp. While we were driving, if someone was hungry, they could simply make a sandwich on the road, and if we decided at the last minute to detour to see or do something, we never had to care about missing reservations.

Iceland outdoor picnic!

The most unnatural thing to me, as a natural planner, was the fact that you do not need to make campground reservations. If you’ve tried to camp in popular campgrounds in the US in summer, you know this simply isn’t true at home. But in Iceland, they really do mean it when they say their campgrounds do not fill up. They really don’t. Not anywhere. Not ever.

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Outdoor adventure road trip: 30 days on an outdoor adventure itinerary

June 22, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Our absolute favorite type of travel involves an outdoor adventure itinerary, the longer the better! However, even we don’t cherish the idea of roughing it continuously for weeks on-end. While we will be spending a full week (or more) on the PCT with kids soon, we opted to plan the rest of our summer outdoor adventures with a little more comfort in mind. Here’s how we’ll be spending 30 days on an outdoor adventure itinerary in the Northwest US this summer, without channeling our inner Bear Grylls.

Day 1-5: Out on the water at the edge of Washington State

We’ll be starting our month of outdoor adventure on scenic San Juan Island, Washington. The San Juan islands are one of our favorite outdoor playgrounds for families, because they offer unparalleled beauty and nature as well as comfort and relaxation, should you want it. It’s easy to get around the island, exploring beaches, forts, and harbors. We’ll spend a night enjoying in San Juan Island hospitality, then set out for two days and two nights with Crystal Seas, kayaking around the side of the island and in the sound. I won’t lie: on this kayaking camping trip, I am very much hoping to see orcas…wildlife that has eluded me so far during multiple trips in the Pacific Northwest. Fingers crossed!

Day 6-8: Mt. Rainer National Park

After one more night of R&R after our outdoor kayaking days at Snug Harbor Resort, we’ll say goodbye to the San Juans and drive back onto the mainland for a few days in Mt. Rainer National Park. Since we just camped out a few days on the island, we’ve reserved a cozy cabin outside the park instead (we got ours through HomeAway). While in the park, we have long day hikes planned; while it will be too early in the season for us to tackle the famous Wonderland Trail (we won’t have time, anyway), we’ll be trying a few of these day hikes. The teens and I will be wearing our Oboz hiking shoes, of course. (Curious about this? Check out why I’m an Oboz ambassador.) As the last Pacific Northwest national park we have yet to visit, I can’t wait to explore Rainer!

Day 9-11: Playtime at Suncadia

Our next set of stops on the itinerary will take us east across Washington, then up to British Columbia, but we don’t want to be in a rush, so we’re planning a relaxing stop at Suncadia. Located in Cle Elum, Washington, Suncadia is one of those one-stop outdoor resorts the Pacific NW is so good at creating. We’ll be able to spread out for a few days in a vacation rental, swim in the pools, ride rental bikes along the Suncadia paths (and perhaps embark on a little mountain biking). While at Suncadia, I’m looking forward to a well-deserved bottle of wine, some nice meals, and maybe even a round of golf.

Day 12-13: Rest(ful) stop in Spokane

After leaving Suncadia, we’ll have a long drive ahead of us as we travel to Cranbrook, BC. Spokane Washington is a natural stopping point, with a lively and revitalized downtown and plenty of outdoor pursuits. We lived in Spokane for many years (in fact, two of the Pit Stops kids were born here), and I can’t wait to show them beautiful Riverfront Park and the Spokane River. We’ll be staying the night at the Red Lion Hotel at Riverfront Park, where the kids will get an evening of waterslides and pool fun. We’ll actually be returning to this hotel later, to watch Spokane’s well-known Hoopfest basketball tournament.

Day 14-20: Cowboy (and girl) living at Three Bars Ranch

After leaving Spokane, we’ll arrive in Cranbrook, BC, in the heart of the Canadian Rockies. Located between two of our favorite outdoor playgrounds–Glacier National Park and Banff, Alberta–the Three Bars Ranch is an all-inclusive dude ranch perfect for families. After trying our first dude ranch last year at Triangle X Ranch, Wyoming, we’re really excited to repeat a week on horseback. Every dude ranch is different, and we’re looking forward to reporting on how Three Bars differs from our Triangle X experience. Already, I know the boys are looking forward to using the tennis courts and pool at Three Bars! While I know our days will be filled with outdoor adventure, we’ll be sleeping in comfortable lodging every night, and able to soak sore muscles in the hot tub.

Day 21-27: Tackling the Main Salmon with O.A.R.S. Rafting

It’s no secret that we absolutely love O.A.R.S., so we’re very excited to announce we’ll be back on the river with this amazing company, this time on the Main Salmon in Idaho. After leaving Three Bars Ranch, we’ll return to Spokane, then head east to lovely McCall, Idaho. After our pre-rafting trip team meeting, we’ll be flying to our put-in spot on the Main Salmon, in the heart of the Frank Church ‘River of No Return’ Wilderness. For six days, we’ll be out in the elements, sleeping in tents and paddling the river, but with the O.A.R.S. team, families still feel pampered, even when on multi-day trips. I know there will be good food, comfy tents, and lots of fun and games.

If you’d love to spend the majority of your summer out-of-doors, but the thought of roughing it for days on end have you hesitating, consider one of the trips listed above…or be crazy like us and do them all! Look for detailed reviews of our experiences with Crystal Seas, Three Bars Ranch, Suncadia, and O.A.R.S. in the months to come!

Five family outdoor adventure vacations worth planning for

February 24, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Embarking on a jungle trek in search of sloths. Skiing fresh powder accessible only by snow-cat. Climbing up a waterfall using only a rope tied to a tree. These kinds of adventures are not behind you now that you have kids. If anything, with the right planning and the right guides and tour operators, they’re perfect for families who want the chance to explore the outdoors beyond a nature walk or zip-line.

Five family outdoor adventure vacations to take with your kids:

A jungle cruise you can’t find at Disney:

Have you heard of Uncruise? It’s a company doing exactly what the name implies: taking your preconceived idea of what a ‘cruise’ entails out of your mind, and replacing it with something better. We took Uncruise’s adventure itinerary through Panama and Costa Rica, where every day started with a briefing on the day’s excursions over a gourmet breakfast. Unlike on a large ship, you’re off the ship (in a new destination) at least twice per day, hiking the jungle, kayaking, paddle-boarding and swimming, and wildlife watching. Uncruise vacations are offered throughout the year, with nice discounts in the shoulder seasons (mainly non-holiday periods when kids are in school). Read more about Uncruise’ Panama and Costa Rica itinerary.

A bucket-list trip to the land of Machu Picchu:

Every day of a Vantage Adventures trip to Peru, you’re outside and doing things that feel like a challenge, whether that challenge is walking up seemingly endless stone steps to the top of a UNESCO-protected antiquity or gathering ingredients for a group dinner at a bustling Cusco outdoor market. My point: adventure doesn’t always have to mean ‘extreme’ adventure. ‘Soft’ adventure can bring families together just as easily, and young kids can participate. Get a glimpse of what’s in store in Peru.

A whitewater camping trip:

When you raft an American river with OARS, my hands-down favorite family rafting operation, you get a camping trip and rafting trip in one. Even if you’ve never slept a night in a tent before embarking on a river, you’ll feel like an expert by the time you’re done four or five days later. Many families report that this is where their own traditions of camping began. If you’re a family accustomed and experienced in the outdoors, OARS will still bring on the challenges with whitewater, personal ‘ducky’ kayaks to command, and side hikes up to jumping rocks, to hot springs, and to waterfalls. Learn more about OARS trips.

An RV vacation under the Midnight Sun:

Maybe you’ve been on an RV vacation road trip, but have you done it in Iceland? In summer, the sun literally never sets, which means adventure is a 24-hour endeavor (much to my kids’ delight). Once you get the hang of driving one of Iceland’s many camper rentals on their narrow roads, you’ll be off and running…to glaciers, hot springs, geothermal pools and hiking trails. Do as much or as little as you want, and plan your itinerary as you go. Read more tips on Iceland camper vacations.

A week of Wild West adventure:

Maybe you’re not ready to tackle a glacier yet, or you don’t know if you can trek all the way to Central or South America. Maybe you just want to get your kids on horseback, learn to fly fish, or spend your days hiking and biking. A dude ranch vacation is like summer camp for grown-ups, because you’ll play right alongside your kids all day, and never have to worry about cooking, planning, or driving. Just wait for the dinner bell each evening (and maybe try your luck at rodeo or gymkhana games). Read our guide to planning a dude ranch vacation for next summer.

Why you want to invest in travel insurance for any family adventure trip:

Adventure trips that involve specialized guides, exotic destinations or extreme conditions are expensive and can sometimes be delayed or derailed by weather or other aspects out of our control. We never pay for a bucket list-worthy trip without buying Allianz Travel insurance. The Allianz Premier Plan is one of their annual plan options and covers everyone in your household…perfect for families. It gives me the peace of mind I need to hit that ‘book’ button. Why Allianz Travel? Read why this is the travel insurance we trust here.
Your credit card or health insurance at home may not cover you in full, and your airline won’t reimburse you or offer you credit in the case of weather-related delays or cancellations.
You want to be covered in case YOU have to cancel, for whatever reason.
You definitely want to forego all of that extra coverage every car rental company wants you to tack onto your reservation.

**General tips to ensure you won’t need to use that travel insurance:**

Fly into your departure destination at least a full day before any adventure cruise. Remember, if you’re delayed for any reason, the ship will not wait for you.
Opt for public transportation when possible, and hire local drivers in difficult-to-navigate areas.
Pay attention to seasons and weather. Will it be hurricane season where you’re going? How about wildfire season (in the American West?). Always, always invest in travel insurance when traveling during high-risk seasons.
Always pack a well-stocked first aid kit, that includes any prescription or over-the-counter medications your family regularly needs. For our crew, this means stashing plenty of antihistamine tablets for those of us with severe seasonal allergies and minor food allergies.
Prepare for any weather discomfort with the right clothing. This doesn’t mean you have to go out and buy the best of everything, but it does require an investment. Think sun protection and layering: make sure everyone in the family has wool or synthetic base layer items to wear against the skin for any outdoor adventure trip, wool socks, and a down or down-alternative puffer jacket and rain jacket.

This post is written in partnership with Allianz Travel, my preferred travel insurance provider. All opinions are my own.

Winter backcountry skiing: a stay with Cascade Huts

January 27, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

As soon as I was made aware of Cascade Huts, a system of backcountry cabins in the Mt. Hood wilderness near Government Camp, Oregon, I knew we had to review it! Set miles away from civilization, each of Cascade Huts’ three rustic cabins are situated along backcountry ski and bike trails accessible in winter from any of three area sno parks. Overnight guests snowshoe or cross-country ski in, stay a night (or two or three!), and hike out on any of several available routes.

We’re avid backpackers, but even so, the idea of packing in overnight supplies (even to a shelter) in winter with the kids was intimidating. From the moment I contacted owners James and Don, my worries were set aside. James emailed me many times, answering all my questions in a very professional and knowledgable manner. One of the nicest things about the Cascade Hut system is its flexibility: guests can opt to hike a short or long distance, choose difficult or easier (note I didn’t say easy) terrain, and even navigate their own routes if they’re skilled in GPS navigation.

Since we’re not expert navigators, I asked James to choose the best route for our single overnight to the White River Hut. Because I was trekking in with kids who are new to cross-country skiing, and I’d be using the provided maps and directions instead of a GPS unit, he suggested we travel the historic Barlow Road from the Barlow Pass Sno-Park, on Highway 35 (longer in distance, but easier to navigate). On the provided maps, I noted that this route was marked as ‘intermediate’, as opposed to the ‘expert’ route also available.

Even so, the Barlow Road was no joke: we navigated the six mile wet powder trail (with multiple small creek crossings and over 1000 feet of elevation change) in just over five hours, needing to stop often to make adjustments, carefully cross creeks, and pick each other up! Luckily, we had planned to be on the trail most of the day, so we’d gotten an early start and made sure to have a picnic lunch ready for the route. Note: even in winter…especially in winter…make sure you include enough water for all members of your group, and keep hydrated.)

We arrived at the White River Hut before sundown, and trust me, it was a welcome sight! The kids (with their endless energy) made snow forts outside while we prepped the cabin: detailed instructions await you upon arrival, and include turning on the propane to run the heater, stove, and gas lanterns. The hut is 256 square feet and sleeps up to eight people. Four bunks line two walls, a third wall features a kitchen counter, supplies, and a stove, and the fourth houses the front door and wall-mounted propane heater. Small windows provide adequate light and ventilation (be careful of CO2 poisoning while using propane!), and a table and chairs provide a nice space to eat and play games.

While staying in Cascade Huts, there’s no need to overpack! I admit, we did just that; not being certain what would be provided (better safe than sorry), we packed in more equipment and water than necessary. Though there is no running water (or electricity), the cabin-side creek was running freely in February, and we were able to both pump clean water and boil snow on the stove for drinking water. In the cabin are sleeping bags (just bring liners), lots of board games (we didn’t need to haul in our poker chips and cards!), all kitchen utensils, pots, pans, plates, and mugs (could have saved pack space there!). Also stocked was a good first aid kit, toilet paper, a snow shovel, and plenty of extra gas cylinders for the portable heater. There’s also an outhouse about 40 yards down the trail, but we found it very difficult to access in the winter, due to a nearby stream.

Note: Summer guests are provided with food and water as well, but in the winter, it would freeze!

Once we figured out the propane and various features of the cabin, we were quite comfortable (cozy, even!) all night. It’s important to bring plenty of layers of clothing for each person, as drying out wet gear is tough. We brought two sets of gloves, hats, and under layers for everyone, and were glad we did, when we were caught in a snow/rain storm on our hike back out.

If you go:

1. Make sure you feel comfortable in the backcountry. The Mt. Hood wilderness is very remote, and all guests should be comfortable following topographical maps and/or GPS units. We had several maps as well as a compass, and used all three. You won’t get cell phone service at the cabin, but it still doesn’t hurt to bring one along. My iPhone didn’t get a signal (though my compass app came in handy), but T-Mobile BlackBerry phones or other smart phones might. Cascasde Huts does a great job of preparing guests (and putting them at ease), and every guest signs a waiver, which isn’t only due to liability, but also ensure their location is known on the date they’ve reserved the cabin(s), an important safety step.

2. If cross-country skiing or snowshoeing is new to you, take a trial run. Since we’re expert downhill skiers, we underestimated the difficulty of cross-country skiing. Though I grew up with the sport, it was Nate (12) and Calvin’s (10) first time, and there was a slight learning curve. The terrain to the huts is steep in places, involves obstacles like logs, creeks, and rocks, and shouldn’t be taken lightly.

3. If you need to rent equipment, go to MountainTracks in the nearby town of Government Camp. You can reserve what you need ahead of time online, making for an easy pick-up!

4. If you’re going the distance (six miles or more), opt for skis instead of snowshoes. Maps of all routes will be sent to you from Cascade Huts, but I also recommend picking up a snowshoe and backcountry trail map at MountainTracks.

Check out the Pit Stops for Kids’ Kid Cam video for a better glimpse of our experience:

Date last visited: February 20, 2012

Distance from the interstate: The Barlow Pass Sno Park (trailhead) is on Hwy 35 (just shy of Hwy 26). The area is approximately 1 hour from Portland, OR.

Nightly Rate: In winter, a Cascade Hut cabin can be reserved for $150 per night (for up to eight people). Additional nights (up to three) can be reserved for a discounted price. In summer, mountain bike routes are available, and prices start at $300 per person for a 4-day, 3-night itinerary that includes meals.

Directions: Depending on your route and hut destination, trailheads are located at any of three area sno parks. Our adventure began at the Barlow Pass Sno Park, located one mile from Government Camp on Highway 35. Be sure to get a sno park permit!

Thanks to Cascade Huts for providing us with one night’s lodging at the White River Hut. This compensation came with no expectation of a positive review.

Traveling the Canadian Rockies on VIA Rail

October 24, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

Overnight passenger train travel can be more expensive and slower than air travel today. So why should you go? And where?

Train across Canada: after spending two nights traveling the Canadian Rockies on VIA Rail‘s Canadian, the ‘why’ is easy to answer: in an age when traveling to a destination has become only about getting from Point A to Point B in a rushed, often stressful manner, a few days (or more) aboard a passenger train is a vacation in itself. The pace is relaxed, the scenery can be fantastic, and the service is friendly. After my experience aboard The Canadian, I would venture to say passenger train travel is in fact the sole remaining mode of idyllic transportation from the golden age, outlasting air and cruise travel.

Incorporating a VIA Rail journey into a Canadian vacation itinerary will greatly enrich your trip. There are many routes to choose between, the longest being the four day journey from Vancouver to Toronto on the Canadian. We opted for a fraction of this trip, embarking in Vancouver and departing in Jasper, Alberta (then returning on the same route after days of sightseeing in the Canadian Rockies). The 20-hour one-way trip was spent taking in the scenery from one of several observation cars with 360 degree views, dining in the relaxed yet elegant dining cars, getting to know fellow passengers, and sleeping, reading, working, or napping. We found that the ‘rail level’ views and relaxed pace afforded a more intimate experience with the British Columbia and Alberta wilderness.

Who to take with you:

If you’re bringing kids, I wouldn’t recommend this trip for kids under age six (though as always, parents know their own children best). During the rail trip, passengers are definitely confined to a series of train cars, and young kids would certainly get restless. Is there enough for older kids to do? Here’s what we found: a variety of board games in the ‘activity cars’, on-going snacks and juices in the lounges, and interesting sights out the window, whether it be scenery whizzing by or temporary stops at stations or through towns. In other words: not a lot of on-board entertainment.

If you travel with kids, we recommend downloading a few movies onto a computer, iPod, or iPad, and bringing plenty of reading material, activity books (such as coloring books) and card games. Plan on several hours between each meal that you’ll need to fill. Expect a primarily-adults-only passenger list: during our October trip, we saw only two children aboard the Canadian. This is not to discourage families from bringing kids: rather, know you’ll need to bring diversions and entertainment as needed. WiFi was not available aboard our train, though 3G and 4G service could be found via roaming off and on.

Which fare to book:

Determining which fare is right for you can be tricky. On the Canadian, there are two basic options: sleeper or economy. In economy, you’ll get a seat that reclines, access to an observation car with upper deck, access to a lounge with tables and chairs, and the option to buy food at the Starlight Cafe, serving meals and snacks to go. Passengers sleep in their seats, and share bathroom facilities. Economy is obviously the more affordable option, but quite frankly, didn’t look too appealing (despite the fact that VIA Rail seats are considerably more comfortable than airline seats).

Sleeper fare offers three bed configurations (each a different price) in the Sleeper Plus category. Passengers can opt between a one-passenger or two-passenger private cabin, or a semi-private upper or lower berth (closed with curtains). We experienced Sleeper Plus in a two-passenger cabin. We had a tiny-yet-functional cabin space with two chairs and a large window, a private bathroom with toilet, and a sink. Also included: a small amount of storage space and two outlets (yay!). In the evenings, a train steward comes by to lower your beds, which in the two-passenger cabin is bunk-bed style: upper and lower single beds. Beds are fully made-up each evening, and very comfortable (provided you’re not quite tall).

The one-passenger private cabin features one bench-like seat that flattens to accommodate a bed, plus a sink and toilet (the latter of which features a cushioned cover to become an ottoman during the day, but is covered up by the bed at night…a definite downside). Both the two-passenger and one-passenger cabins share one shower per car.

The last sleeper option is to book an upper or lower berth. These compartments feature bench seats (two facing each other) during the day, which fold out to become a lower berth bed at night. The upper berth bed folds out from the wall by the ceiling. These berths are made up at night and feature thick curtains for privacy. They share a public toilet and shower (one per car).

All Sleeper Plus fares include meals in the dining car (breakfast, lunch, and dinner, depending on when you’re onboard), snacks in the lounge, access to several observation cars and lounges, and complimentary champagne and appetizers upon embarkation.

Here’s a photo depicting 1. a two-passenger cabin made up for bed, 2. a lower berth made up for day, 3. coach seats:

Which to book will depend on your comfort level (how much privacy do you need?) and your meal needs. We absolutely recommend the all-inclusive dining: if you opt out of this, you can buy meals a la carte in the cafe, but this option would get old (and expensive) if traveling more than one night. We enjoyed the privacy of a cabin, but could have been comfortable in an upper and lower berth as well. Keep in mind that only up to two passengers fit in a cabin: families of four or more will need to book two (or more) cabins or opt for two or more upper/lower berths in a row. (The latter option will allow for more freedom of movement between beds as needed, but you’ll only have access to a shared bathroom.

View our VIA Rail experience video:

Tips:

1. Carry-on sized bags only are allowed onboard. Full-sized bags will need to be checked, so plan accordingly. Cabins have space for up to two carry-on bags, but if you opt for a berth, you’d be better off with only a large tote or backpack.

2. Bring a water bottle to refill. While coffee, tea, and juice is on offer at all times, I found the need to also keep a water bottle filled to prevent dehydration. If you like to sip coffee or tea all day, bring a small thermos or insulated mug.

3. Bring a hair dryer if you’ll need one: in cabins, towels, shampoo, and soap are provided, but not hair dryers.

4. Be prepared for plenty of motion and some train noise at night. We slept surprisingly well onboard, but you’ll definitely feel the movement.

Date last visited:

October 2013

Fare cost:

Calculate Via Rail fares here. Definitely plan early and check for fare discounts, offered several times per year. What we found: VIA Rail is not more economical than flying, so you need to consider the fare cost a part of your vacation experience, not part of your transportation costs.

Directions:

If embarking in Vancouver on the Canadian, you’ll depart from Pacific Station. Located next to Science World, it’s easy to get here from SkyRail from either the airport or the Waterfront station in downtown Vancouver.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced The Canadian as guests of the VIA Rail, for the purpose of review. All opinions are our own, and we hope our experience inspires and equips other traveling families to make great decisions about rail travel.