Adventures - Pitstops for Kids

Montana dude ranch vacation: Flathead Lake Lodge

August 23, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

On my very first morning of a week-long dude ranch stay at Flathead Lake Lodge in western Montana, I sat down to breakfast in the historic lodge dining room and couldn’t find a spoon. I looked about, but the wait staff was busy, so I turned to a fellow guest…a veteran of many summers at the dude ranch. “Oh, just start checking the drawers,” she said, pointing to a cabinet. “I think they’re in the second from the left.”

I felt odd, digging through a restaurant’s silverware, but before I’d reached the second drawer, I had more help. “Spoon? Oh yeah, right here,” a man said, directing me to the correct drawer. When looked up to thank him, I realized the owner of the lodge himself, Doug Averill, had come to my rescue. “We’re really causal here,” he assured me, waving away my sheepish apology for helping myself. “Whatever you need, just feel free.”

I quickly learned that this sense of ownership and familiarity is typical at Flathead Lake Lodge. Take the mid-week morning, for instance, that I rounded the corner from the main lodge toward the outdoor volleyball court to see my eighteen-year-old giving a new eight-year-old buddy a piggy back ride toward the barn…a little boy we’d never met before that week. Or the time my 12-year-old informed me he couldn’t tell me where he was headed, because he and a gaggle of other middle schoolers had found themselves a ‘secret’ hideout never before discovered. Or the time the owners took their staff out on Flathead Lake one evening for an appreciation party, leaving with a cheery, “Try not to burn the place down!” in farewell.

Guests at the ranch would never mistake this casual approach to hospitality for neglect, however. The ranch staff, from wranglers to housekeeping to water sports instructors, were attentive, friendly, and enthusiastic, without exception. The difference was, we were treated like family rather than like visitors. And at a ranch like Flathead Lake Lodge that caters to providing a full but relaxed family vacation, this treatment made all the difference.

We’ve now stayed a week at three different dude ranches, and have learned extensively about many more. They each offer their own take on the dude ranch experience, but I have taken to calling Flathead Lake Lodge a ‘dude ranch plus’. More than any other ranch we’ve reviewed, it embodies a full mountain vacation experience. Horseback riding and ranch life is a big part of it, but by no means defines it. Flathead Lake Lodge is just as much an ‘all inclusive lakeside resort’ as it is a dude ranch.

What to expect from a Montana dude ranch vacation at Flathead Lake Lodge:

Flathead Lake Lodge sits on 2500 acres of lakefront and forest on Flathead Lake, Montana. It’s just a short walk from the quaint town of Bigfork, and about 45 minutes from both the airport in Kalispell and the entrance to Glacier National Park. On the property, guests enjoy private shoreline of the lake, with a small but well-stocked marina that includes three small sailboats, two larger sloops, several cruiser boats, motorboats, a ski boat, and a collection of paddle boards, kayaks, and canoes. Also on the lake front are docks to fish from and swim from, a swimming pool, and plenty of lounging space on rolling lawn.

Just up from the lake sits the historic main lodge, which dates from 1945. This houses the communal dining room with its massive stone fireplace, the kitchen, bar, and the lodge office. The main lodge is a central hub at the ranch, where guests and staff alike relax, eat, and mingle.

Tucked around the lodge is a smattering of small cabins, ranging in size from one to three bedrooms, which house guests, as well as the South Lodge, which offers lodge rooms for guests who don’t require an entire cabin. Our family of five stayed in the South Lodge in two adjacent rooms, one of which included an upper loft. All lodge rooms have their own bathrooms. The sand volleyball court sits between the South Lodge and the main lodge, and a path up the hill away from the lake leads to the gift shop and laundry facilities, tennis courts, and barn.

If the main lodge is the central hub for meals, the barn is the central hub for horseback activities and the central play area for children. How so? Above the working space of the barn (where horses are saddled, etc) the upper level houses ping pong tables, a pool table, and other games. Kids tend to gather here before or after their rides. Below the game area, a well-stocked and staffed arts and crafts room occupies a large space. Behind the barn is a large horseback riding arena, with pastures on other sides.

Guests arrive and depart on Sundays. Upon arrival, we were shown to our rooms and given the chance to get settled, then were able to attend an orientation at the barn, which introduced us to the wrangler staff and horse program. I liked that there’s a chance for guests to get up on a horse Sunday evening; this is perfect for people who are less familiar with horses and want to get their feet wet in the controlled space of the arena under the watchful eye of a wrangler.

It’s not necessary to sign up for horseback rides, as they’re offered daily with no reservations required, but on Monday morning, guests have the opportunity to sign up for additional activities that do require advanced notice. These activities include the ones offered by outside outfitters or operators, such as guided fishing trips, mountain laser tag (more on that later), whitewater rafting, clay pigeon shooting, massages, and yoga. These activities come with an extra charge. Monday morning is also the time and place to sign up for horseback riding lessons in the arena, guided hikes, and guided or non-guided mountain biking, which are offered by lodge staff (of these, some hikes and mountain biking do come with an extra cost).

Here’s what’s always included in your stay, and do not require a Monday reservation:

horseback riding
water sports including waterskiing and wake boarding
canoe, kayak, and paddle board use
sailing (sailing on the large sloops requires a day-of sign up)
horseback lessons (you can sign up for these on Monday but also make reservations later)
hiking or mountain biking on your own (with your own bikes)
long rides (that include lunch or breakfast)
all meals, including the ‘riding’ meals to a steak fry dinner and to breakfast
tennis
volleyball
kids activities, including campout, fire truck riding, and kids’ rodeo

Meals are served in the main lodge, and include breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Breakfast cereals and pastries are available from about 7 am on, with either a hot buffet or plated breakfast (depending on the day) served at 8:30 am. Lunch is buffet style, served at 12:30 pm. Dinner is served buffet style for kids at 6 pm and as a plated meal for adults at 6:30 pm (one choice of entree, with specialty options such as vegetarian or gluten free meals offered with advanced notice). Kids can absolutely eat with the adults; the 6 pm buffet simply gives you the option in case you have kids who would rather eat and run. My teens ate the adult meal with us every evening, while my 12-year-old opted for the kid fare so he could go play with friends.

On the schedule, there are also kids’ meal times for breakfast and lunch listed (30 minutes before adult dining), but we found these times to be more of a suggestion: the food is the same, but the lodge staff simply puts it out half an hour earlier for kids should they want it. Adults can certainly jump in line with the kids. As noted above, everything is causal at Flathead Lake Lodge.

We found the food served at Flathead to be well above average for a dude ranch. Dinners were exceptional, with entrees such as salmon, beef tenderloin, and chicken with risotto on the menu. Lunch buffet was so good, we often over-ate…I tried very hard to utilize only the well-stocked salad bar at lunch, but often found myself tempted to sample far more. The buffet items included a pasta bar, Mexican and Chinese food days, and seafood. Breakfast included fresh fruit and berries, plenty of cereal and granola choices, and hot dishes that usually included breakfast meats, eggs, hash browns or potatoes, or pancakes. Between meals, snacks are always on offer on a counter in the lodge, and water, lemonade, and tea are always available, as well as coffee.

Kids’ activities such as lawn games are usually scheduled for the 6:30 hour so adults can know they’re busy doing something with staff while they eat dinner, but everything is optional, and there’s no formal childcare or kids’ club (you’re responsible for your kids). Before dinner, there’s always a happy hour in the bar from 5:30-6:30 pm. The way the bar operates is unique: while some bottles of wine and beer are available for purchase, guests are encouraged to bring their own liquor, beer, and wine to the lodge, label it with their last name, and store it in the bar. During happy hour, the bar is staffed and the bartender will mix drinks and pour wine, with appetizers served. This is a great time to chat with fellow guests about the day. At any other time, guests can treat the bar as their own, stepping behind the counter to access their own alcoholic beverages.

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What to expect on an O.A.R.S. river rafting trip

August 11, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Earlier this month, we enjoyed our fourth multi-night rafting trip with O.A.R.S. If you do something four times, it’s because you love it, and there are very few vacations we’ve loved as much as O.A.R.S. trips. This unique family vacation combines some of our favorite things: outdoor exploration, adventure, isolation and off-the-grid family time, and conservation. And it packages all these elements into a vacation where my husband and I don’t have to worry about directions, dining, or any other major decisions.

If you’ve read our previous reports from O.A.R.S. trips, which include our two times on the Rogue River, our trip on the Salmon, and our trip in the Tetons, and you still haven’t booked a river rafting trip with your family, maybe it’s because you’re not quite sure what to expect, are not quite convinced such an outdoor trip will be in your family’s comfort zone, or maybe just fear the unknown. I understand. I’m here to help, and I’m going to get really nitty-gritty with you, because knowledge is power, right?

What to expect on an O.A.R.S. river rafting trip:

What to expect from your guides: The night before your trip begins, you’ll meet your trip leader and fellow rafting companions at a nearby hotel or resort. I’ll go into more detail about those fellow rafting companions in a bit, but first: the trip leader. This is an individual, male or female, who has the most authority during your trip. Trip leaders rotate throughout the season, so keep in mind that some of your additional guides on your trip may also have trip leadership experience and be every bit as competent. In my experience, O.A.R.S. trip leaders are ruggedly outdoorsy types between age 30-45, who have often made the outdoor recreation industry their career choice. Your trip leader will go over logistics for the launch the next day, issue your dry bags (more on that soon, too), and tell you any updates on weather, packing, or water conditions.

You’ll meet your additional guides the following day, at the put-in location. Sometimes, the put-in is nearby, just a short van ride away, and sometimes, as is the case on the Salmon River in Idaho, it’s a charter plane flight away. On our trips, which ranged from as few as 10 guests total to 18 guests, we always had 3-4 additional guides. These guides are generally younger (with the exception of any guides who are also trip leaders). Some are college students, but most are in their 20s. We’ve had some great guides and some just ok guides, but never a bad guide.

What to expect from your fellow guests: Well, you can expect just about anything and everything, which is one of the ‘unknown variables’ of commercial river rafting. In a small group, in a fairly intimate setting of camping together, it is frankly a big bummer to get saddled with people you don’t get along with or don’t like for whatever reason. It’s a risk, no way around that. However, while we have been on O.A.R.S. trips with guests who occasionally annoy us, we have never experienced a downright ‘bad’ guest. I believe this is because in general, the individuals and families who book multi-night river rafting trips have something essential in common: we all value the outdoors and the opportunity to explore the scenic river.

If you do encounter a guest who is, shall we say, difficult, there are a few things you can do to help the situation. First, trust the guides. If a guest is difficult, they are aware of it, and are the best authority to curb any unwanted behavior. Best to allow the guides to be the ones to tell guests where to place their trash, not to hog the kayaks, or to stop diving headfirst into the water. Second, if both you and the other guests have kids, it can help to set some basic shared rules in place right away. That way, kids don’t feel frustrated when rules are different for others. Most of the time, this happens naturally, because O.A.R.S. sets the rules for rafting, swimming, use of PFDs and helmets, and even how many sodas and snacks are consumed (by kids). There’s very limited ability to be on screens on an O.A.R.S. trip, so likely, you won’t have to contend with varying electronics rules. A few times, we’ve encountered families with vastly different parenting styles from us, but all it took was a brief family meeting to remind our kids that our rules would remain in place for our kids, and that was that.

What to expect from meals and drinks: Aside from group dynamics, people worry most about food on trips, don’t you think? On each of our O.A.R.S. trips, we ate better on the river than we do at home. Every meal was made from scratch with whole food ingredients, and all were cooked and prepared swiftly and efficiently by our guides. Between meals, GORP (trail mix) was available, and before each meal, ‘appetizers’ were set out, even at breakfast and lunch. For example, at breakfast, coffee came out first, along with dry cereal (usually Cheerios and granola), yogurt, and orange juice. When ‘real’ breakfast followed, it might be French toast, eggs Benedict, or pancakes. At lunch, while our guides prepared the meal, snacks were set out such as cut veggies and dip, chips, fruit, and cookies. A typical lunch would include sandwich fixings and/or a hearty salad. Before dinner, a cooler with sodas, beer, and wine was available (with a ration of approximately one soda per day for kids and 2 drinks for adults), along with appetizers such as chips and salsa, bruschetta and toast points, or veggies, followed by salmon and cous cous, steak and potatoes, or enchiladas, always followed by dessert.

If you want to bring additional drinks, families are free to do so, with the general understanding that they’ll be willing to share. Guides store your additional drinks for you, keeping them cooled.

What to expect from the camping experience: On our last O.A.R.S. trip on the Rogue River, we rafted with a family who had never camped outside before, and they rocked it! You get tents from O.A.R.S., which you set up yourself after a demo, at each campsite. You can also rent a sleep kit, which includes a sleeping bag and paco pad (big thick rafting pad) and liner. Or, you can bring your own sleeping bag and pad (though if you do, I still recommend using a paco pad for comfort…you can rent this solo). Most nights on the Rogue and Salmon, we didn’t even bother sleeping in our tent, the weather was so nice. We slept under the stars, setting up a tent only for changing clothes and storing belongings.

Within each campsite, it’s easy to find a little corner for your family, but you’ll want to remember that you won’t have total isolation or much privacy. Expect to still see the other tents, the guides’ sleep pads, and the camp kitchen area. I promise this is no big deal: you get to know fellow guests very quickly on an O.A.R.S. trip, and you can always set up your tent for some privacy.

What to expect from the bathroom experience: Okay. Let’s get real: this is the issue people are afraid of most. How do you take care of your bathroom needs when you’re in complete wilderness, away from any plumbing whatsoever? Two ways: first, you pee in the river, as mandated by Leave No Trace (dilution is the solution to pollution). This is easy to do during the day…after all, you’re in the river most of the time. It’s harder during the evenings and mornings at camp, especially for women. Men tend to just walk a few paces downriver and stand to pee into the current from the shore…no biggie, no one even notices. Women, here’s what you do…and sorry for going here, but I’m in the outdoors a lot, and very comfortable with this stuff: if you need to pee and you’re out of the water for the day, you go behind one of the rafts, which will be ‘parked’ at the shoreline for the night. Behind their protective wall, you squat by the water, facing the camp. This ensures you moon the river, not the camp. After a few tries, I promise you’ll get good at this and no one will see a thing. When you’re getting used to this technique, it helps to wear a skirt or sarong, so you can eliminate even the mooning part.

For #2, O.A.R.S. sets up what they call the Groover (so named because it used to be a simple bucket or square metal box that would leave grooves on your backside). Now, it has a toilet seat (luxury!). The guides always set up the Groover at camp, in a discreet (but rarely discreet as you’d like) location from the hub of camp activity. You’ll know where the Groover is because there will be a hand wash station (two buckets of water with a foot pump and soap)…and the Groover will be a short walk from this station, hidden as best as possible behind trees, willows, or other natural barriers. It is by no means completely private, with doors that lock, etc, and I know that’s hard to handle at first. But I promise you’ll get used to it. And the thing is, everyone is in the same boat. You’ll know you won’t be interrupted because if you have the TP, others know someone is using the Groover, and when you’re done, you bring the TP back to the hand wash station. The Groover is for solid waste only, as everything in it is packed back out (per Leave No Trace rules), so no peeing in the Groover. However, if you would rather not pee in the river, there is a pee bucket next to the Groover, for that use. I know, this is so gross, but this is the nitty-gritty part, and I bet it helps to know what to expect ahead of time.

What to expect on the river: The actual river is probably what people worry least about, but I’ll cover a few things anyway. Depending on your destination, most O.A.R.S. trips include paddle rafts (where lots of people can paddle together, with a guide), oar rafts (with a guide rowing only), and IKs or duckies (inflatable kayaks), paddled by guests individually. Sometimes, there are also stand-up paddle boards. IKs and paddle boards provide the most adventurous way to experience the river, but all the methods of river transportation are fun. Guides do a good job of making sure popular boats are shared evenly, but you can help by not ‘hogging’ certain things, like IKs. Often, rafters using IKs will need to take a ‘ducky test’ or ‘ducky practice’, where they’re required to purposely flip it over, flip it back upright, and get back in, in water over their head. This is not as hard as it sounds, and most people can do it with some practice and instruction. Kids usually need to be 12 to ‘ducky’ on their own, but tandems to be shared with parents are also available. Most of the time, you paddle the river for a few hours in the morning and a few hours in the afternoon, with the remainder of the time used for lunch, short side trip hikes, and swimming time.

Have additional questions about what to expect on an O.A.R.S. river rafting trip? Ask me in the comments!

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Beyond the Blue Lagoon: Iceland hot springs off the beaten path

July 26, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Yep, we went to Iceland for eight days and never went to the Blue Lagoon. Why pay a crazy entry fee to go to an overcrowded geothermal pool, when so many remote, beautiful, and FREE pools exist all over Iceland?

During our camper van road trip in Iceland, we dipped our toes in steaming water every single day, and never paid an entry fee of more than $25 (and usually paid nothing at all).

Where to find Iceland hot springs off the beaten path:

Reykjadalur hot springs river:

In the south, just about 40 minutes outside of Reykjavik, the small town of Hvergerdi offers a 3.5 kilometer hike into the geothermal hills to a hot springs river. Yes, it’s well worth the hike. You’ll climb upward pretty steeply for the first km or so, then work your way up and down over hills with lovely views of the valley below. Eventually, you’ll see steam billowing up, and you’ll quicken your pace, because you’ll know you’re close! At the river, there’s a boardwalk with entry points along the small stream, and a few wooden walls that serve as changing areas. If you follow the boardwalk up, you’ll find the hottest water (so hot it’s almost painful), and as you walk down, you’ll find cooler water (closer to 35-37 C). It’s a lot of fun to move from section to section feeling the different temperatures.

If you don’t want to change behind a wall, you can change in the small bathrooms at the little cafe at the start of the hike, or just wear your swimsuit under your hiking wear. Be sure to bring lots of layers, including rain wear, as there’s no protection from the elements (similar to all over Iceland). The hot springs river is free, and does get crowded on the trail (though even in peak season, we found plenty of space in the river to soak).

To get here: Take Route 1 (Ring Road) from Reykjavik to Hvergerdi. Drive through town following the Reykjadalur signage until you get to a gravel road ending in a parking lot.

Seljavallalaug Hidden Hot Spring:

This one may not be so hidden anymore, but it’s still uncrowded. This geothermal pool is located in the middle of nowhere in a tiny valley with green mountains rising dramatically up all around it. The pool was made near the turn of the 20th century, for the purpose of teaching Icelandic children to swim (before the 1920s, unbelievably, most Icelanders could not swim). It has a single pool and rudimentary changing rooms (unisex…it gets interesting). This pool gets some criticism on TripAdvisor and the like, with people calling it dirty. It’s not dirty: it’s rich in algae, natural to Icelandic hot springs. The hike to the pool is only about one km, and our only complaint is that the water is a bit on the cool side (around 35 degrees). Toward the southern end of the pool where the geothermal water flows in, it’s closer to 40 degrees. On a warm day, this is fine, but on the cold, sleeting day we visited, it was painful to get out! This pool is FREE.

How to get here: From Route 1, turn down road 242 in the south. Follow the dirt road straight (don’t turn right) and you’ll get to a parking lot with an unused pool about 1/4 mile in. The hike is short into the valley (you can’t see the pool from the parking area though).

Laudar campsite hot pot:

This adorable hot pot (hot tub) is located in the Laudar campsite in west Iceland. The parking lot is at the Hotel Edda, and the walk is just a few meters. There’s a quaint changing hut (unisex, but fewer people are here) and the water is a perfect 38 degrees. You can camp onsite, too, if desired. This hot pot is FREE.

How to get here: From Route 1, take 60 all the way up through the isolated farmlands until you’re above the town of Budardalur. Follow the sign to Laudar.

Secret Lagoon:

So the Secret Lagoon is no secret, but it can be found just outside of the town of Fludir near the Golden Circle. You’ll find a large pool half-formed by natural rock, fed hot water from bubbling geysers nearby. It’s the most expensive pool we visited ($25 per adult), probably because of its proximity to the Golden Circle and its tourism traffic. No matter: it’s worth spending a few hours here.

How to get here: Take road 30 to Fludir. The sign is just before you enter town. Go down a dirt road for just about a mile.

Hot pot of Flokalaundar:

If you’re willing to drive about two hours (mostly on dirt) from Reykholar in the Westfjords, you’ll arrive at a hot pot nestled right against the sea. Do as the locals do and jump between the warm water (around 38 degrees) and the freezing ocean and back. This hot pot is larger than Laudar but a bit busier. No changing rooms…change in your car or camper. There’s a small parking lot right nearby.

How to get here: From Route 1, take 60 and follow it all the way up into the fjords. Be sure to have a full tank of gas, as there are few services before you reach Flokalaundar. Plan on narrow, steep dirt road for part of the drive. Is it worth it? Yes.

Tip: Can’t get to a natural hot springs one day? Look for a public Icelandic pool! Every town we drove through had their own (look for the water and swimmer signage), and each cost less than $10-$12. Inside each complex, you’ll find a geothermal fed warm outdoor pool (often with waterslides and other features), hot pots, and a steam bath, plus nice changing rooms and hot showers. Talk with locals here, and get to know the real Iceland. Remember to follow custom and shower nude before swimming. Never bring cameras or phones into the pool or changing areas.

Three favorite public Icelandic pools:

Note: Photos are not allowed of Icelandic public pools.

Laugardalslaug: Iceland’s largest public pool complex is only $8 for entry, and in our opinion, beats the heck out of the Blue Lagoon. There are two huge outdoor pools (one is a lap pool, the other has all sorts of features…basketball hoop, big twisty waterslides, climbing ropes, floating platforms, and water toys), four hot pots of various temperatures, a cold plunge, a huge steam bath, a massage area, and a large kiddie pool area. There are spacious and clean locker facilities and hot showers. On the grounds are also sand volleyball courts, exercise equipment, and a ropes course. Laugardalslaug is located in the suburbs of Reykjavik.

Drangsnes: The public pool on the Steingrimsfjordur fjord in the north has all the usual amenities, with a location right on the sea. Best of all, the town has arranged for free hot pots to be placed and maintained right on the beach, should you not need the added amenities of showers.

Kirkjubaejarklaustur: This public pool has views of the town’s pretty waterfall from the hot pots, plus a nice sized swimming pool with small water slide and a kid’s hot pot/wading area. What we loved about this pool was its local vibe: we had the opportunity to talk with many Icelanders here, and all were welcoming.

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Deschutes river rafting with Sun Country Tours

July 19, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

During our recent visit to Pronghorn Club, we were fortunate enough to enjoy the Big Eddy rafting trip with Bend, Oregon’s Sun Country Tours. ‘Short but sweet’, the Big Eddy trip is only 1.5 hours long (2.5 door-to-door from Sun Country) but promises more whitewater than most families see on the average float or raft trip (at least it was more than we had seen!).

Deschutes river rafting:

Our trip began with a short bus ride from Sun Country to the Big Eddy drop-in site on the Deschutes River (near majestic Mt. Bachelor), conducted by a friendly bus driver. Once on the water, we met with our guides (one per raft of 4-6 guests), donned lift jackets and were assigned oars (kids must be taller than the handle to be issued one), then started down the 3 mile stretch of river on the tour. Both the beginning and ending feature calm, still water ideal for swimming, and our guide encouraged the kids (and adults) to jump from the raft and float downstream. The kids especially loved being spun around while standing on the bow of the raft, one at a time.

The river offers a few ‘warm up’ class 1 and 2 rapids before the class 3 Big Eddy, before which the guide pulled us over to the river bank to dock and overlook the rapids before tackling them. The kids loved seeing what we were going to raft, and our guide used the opportunity to instruct the adults in the group on where to paddle and when (though I promptly forgot). Once back on-board our raft, the kids were secured in safe spots (Toby was given a special rope to hold) and we were on our way.

The whitewater of the Big Eddy was truly like a wall after wall of water; we were bounced from crest to crest, and the kids shrieked with more delight on each one! I loved the experience, despite continually looking back in the boat to ensure my kids were still in it! Afterward, everyone was laughing with relief at surviving the thrill (including the six-year-olds in our group who hadn’t been too sure about the whole thing). We celebrated with a few more small rapids, during which the kids were allowed to ‘ride the bull’ (I.E. sit on the front of the bow with no hands). We docked after the last of the rapids, and were transferred back to Sun Country.

Distance from the interstate: Five minutes from Hwy 97.

Cost per person: The Big Eddy tour is $46 per person. Other Sun Country tours start at $73.

Dining options: None. The Big Eddy tour is easily fit in between lunch and dinner or breakfast and lunch. Full day tours include lunch.

Directions: Sun Country is located at 531 SW 13th St., Bend, OR. From Hwy 97, take exit 138 toward Downtown/Mt Bachelor, then turn right onto NW Hill St. Continue onto NW Colorado Ave. At the traffic circle, continue straight onto SW Colorado Ave. Turn right onto SW Emkay Dr., then take the 1st left onto SW Donovan Ave. Take the first right onto SW 13th St.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced the Big Eddy tour as guests of Sun Country Tours and Pronghorn Club. While we appreciate their hospitality, this compensation came with no expectation of a positive review.

Three northwest backpacking routes for families

July 17, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Parents with young children: you absolutely can backpack with kids! Our family has found success by choosing backpacking routes that are short on distance but big on rewards, whether that be in the form of a fun lake or river to swim in, dramatic scenery, or both. The following three northwest backpacking routes for families deliver.

Before you read on, check out our tips for backpacking with kids!

Northern California’s Trinity Alps:

Just south of dramatic Mt. Shasta at the top of Northern California, the Shasta-Trinity National Forest offers some of the best backpacking for families. While word is now getting out, the Trinity Alps used to be very uncrowded, while still offering up vistas on par with the Sierra Nevada.

For families, we recommend the 5.2 mile route from Swift Creek Trailhead to Granite Lake. From the Swift Creek Trailhead of the Trinity Alps, families hike for one mile before crossing Swift Creek at a large bridge and taking the Granite Lake Trail. After that, it’s 4.2 miles of a pretty strenuous uphill hike. Take your time, knowing that you don’t have to hike too far but will be rewarded with one of the most stunning alpine lakes you could ask for.

Make a home base at Granite Lake, and spend an extra day day-hiking up above it (the terrain turns to sub-alpine granite with great views). If you want to make a full loop of it, you can continue to Horseshoe Lake, reconnecting with the original Swift Creek Trail to follow the creek back to the parking lot. We have always been content to simply play at Granite Lake, however.

How to get to the trailhead: Swift Creek Trailhead is at the end of Swift Creek Road, accessed from Highway 3. (From I-5, grab Highway 3 at Yreka.) You’ll pass a national forest ranger station near Fort Jones, where you can grab your backcountry permit.

On the Granite Lake Trail

Southern Oregon’s Sky Lakes Wilderness:

The Sky Lakes are beloved to our family. They’re right in our backyard, so we’ve logged a lot of hours on trails here. The great thing about Sky Lakes is the flexibility; there are multiple options for making larger or shorter loops between its many small alpine lakes. The elevation is lower than many backpacking routes, so the nights will remain warmer (but you’ll also experience more mosquitoes, so aim to visit in August or September).

The Sky Lakes are generally split between Lower Sky Lakes Basin and Upper Sky Lakes Basin. You can see it all in a 12 to 14 miles loop, but we recommend staying on the Upper Sky Lakes Basin end to see Trapper Lake and Lake Margurette. You can camp at either, and experience the other in a day hike, should you wish. Start at Cold Springs Trailhead, and when the trail splits, follow the upper toward Natasha and Margurette lakes. The entire hike is only about 3.2 miles, and isn’t too steep. If you’re ambitious, you can also access the Pacific Crest Trail above Trapper, and walk along it for a while.

How to get to the trailhead: Cold Springs Trailhead is located off Highway 140. From Medford (and I-5), take Highway 62 to Highway 140. At mile marker 41, you’ll take gravel road FR 3651 at the Cold Spring Trailhead sign, and follow it 10 miles to the parking lot.

Setting up camp

Central Oregon’s Jefferson Park:

Very few wilderness areas are as breathtakingly beautiful as Jefferson Park. And yes, it is indeed a veritable ‘park’ of alpine creeks, lakes, trickling waterfalls, and towering peaks. You have to earn it though: the route in from either side takes some time for families. We recommend the slightly shorter route from Whitewater Trailhead (the other option is Breitenbush Trailhead further north).

You’ll go about four miles before reaching Whitewater Creek, with stunning views of Mt. Jefferson all the while. After the creek, you’ll join the PCT temporarily as you enter the park. Once in, you’ll see many trail options leading a short distance to multiple small lakes. We suggest Russell Lake or Scout Lake. Take fishing poles, and the fish seem to really bite here. You can rejoin the PCT for a long day hike should you wish, or can simply set up camp and enjoy the lake. No matter which lake you pick in the park, the round-trip mileage will be about the same: 11 miles or so.

How to get to the trailhead: Take exit 253 off I-5 in Salem. Drive 60 miles east on North Santiam Highway 22. Between mileposts 60 and 61 (10 miles beyond Detroit), turn left on Whitewater Road 2243. This gravel road forks in about 100 yards, keep right. Follow this road 7.5 miles where it dead-ends at a large parking area.

Jefferson peak

I think it’s time for us to discover some shorter backpacking routes in Washington state next! While we have experience in this region, it’s for longer hikes for more experienced backpackers. If you know of great routes for families in Washington, please leave them in the comments. And always remember to call the local ranger station before your trip for weather and trail closure information, as well as any detailed driving directions you may need.

Summer in the Berkshires: Bousquet Mountain Adventure Park review

June 26, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Bousquet Ski Area’s Adventure Park is a vertical playground of high rope courses, zip lines, nets, and ladders, all set against the backdrop of the beautiful Berkshires. With three levels of course ‘elements’ to master, everyone will be challenged here, and everyone can get a taste of what ropes courses are all about.

Bousquet Mountain Adventure Park review:

We met first with our instructor, who fitted us in harnesses and gloves and explained to us how our clips and ropes worked. It seemed complicated at first (and we’d done this before!), but once we’d had time to go through the steps with her and review what we’d learned on the practice cables and zip line (very low to the ground), we felt very confident about maneuvering through the course. I loved that due to Bousquet’s cable and clip safety system, it’s virtually impossible to be completely unclipped from the cable at any given time. I felt completely at ease allowing Nate (12) and Calvin (9) loose on the course, always with instructors nearby.

Of course, I wasn’t about to miss out on the opportunity to play on a high ropes course, so I joined in, too. The first level is relatively low to the ground, and a great place to get the hang of things. Participants go in one direction through the elements, which eliminates traffic jams (a non-issue since there were only a few other people on the course at the time) and ensures you experience everything. Once you’ve completed Level 1, you’ll want to try Level 2 (straight above you), though of course, if you opt out, you can experience Level 1 again. Level 2 was certainly more challenging to me, and by Level 3, I was ready to leave it to the kids (i.e. monkeys).

One of the best parts of Adventure Park are the zip lines that connect elements. We’d experienced zip lines and high ropes courses before, but not together! Attached to each of our harnesses were zip line apparatuses (apparati?) which we used to zip ourselves from area to area on short zip lines. (Note: on the higher elements, some ‘commando’ work is required for lighter, shorter people; you’ll zip part way, then need to pull yourself the rest of the way, which takes some upper body strength!)

We couldn’t help but compare Bousquet’s Adventure Park to Big Sky, Montana’s high ropes course, and though the scenery was certainly more stunning at Big Sky, the kids preferred Bousquet’s multi-level course. I found Big Sky’s course to be more dramatic (it’s higher, for one, and accessible only by rope ladder), and had a hard time directly comparing them.

The Adventure Park is awesome, but what makes Bousquet great for traveling families are the multitude of other activities to do on-site in summer! Toby (age 6) and our nephew Homer (age 2) were too young to explore the Adventure Park (where participants must be 70 pounds and at least 48 inches tall), but with mountain day passes, had free rein of the water slides, activity pool, and miniature golf course. Day passes also include three activity tickets to be used for the bungee trampoline, bounce house, climbing wall, go-kart track, or Frisbee golf course. Everything is located in one place (including the Adventure Park), which makes it easy for families to pick and choose how they spend their day based on interest and age, while still staying together.

Note: We were told that kids under five feet tall could only experience Level 1 of the Adventure Park, but after completing this level, our instructors allowed Calvin (just shy of five feet) to continue on up. It was explained to me that the height requirement is in place not due to safety, but due to cable placement; some cables on the higher elements are spaced in such a way that the reach from the child’s harness to the cable might be uncomfortable. Also, kids’ lower weight ensures they will need to complete some upper zip lines ‘commando’ style. We didn’t find the former to be a problem, and Calvin enjoyed the latter! I always recommend following an operation’s guidelines and deferring to their instructors’ judgment.

Ticket costs: Adventure Park passes are $35 per adult (over 5 feet tall) and $29 for juniors (under 5 feet tall). Day Mountain Pass tickets (which include the above listed, minus the Adventure Park) are $28. Activities can be purchased ‘a la carte’ as well, but the day pass is by far the best deal! In fact, we’ve reviewed many zip line and ropes course locations, and I can say without doubt that Bousquet’s offers the best value on a high ropes course I’ve ever seen!

A spectator pass can be purchased for those not experiencing the activities for $7.50. (I always appreciate when an operation offers this!) And be sure to check Bousquet’s ‘deals’ page before planning your trip: they offer $10 Mondays on their Mountain Passes and $20 Tuesdays for the Adventure Park!

Hours: Bousquet’s summer hours are 10 am to 5 pm, daily.

Reservations: 413-442-8316. We didn’t need reservations arriving when the park opened at 10 am on a week day, but to be safe, call ahead!

Website: http://www.bousquets.com/

Directions: Bousquet is located at 101 Dan Fox Drive, Pittsfield, MA. From Boston, take Exit 2 off the Massachusetts Turnpike to Routes 20 & 7 North. Follow signs for Bousquet and Pittsfield Airport (left at light onto Dan Fox Drive for 1 mile).

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced the summer activities, including the Adventure Park, as guests of Bousquet Ski Area. While we appreciate their hospitality, it in no way guaranteed a positive review.

Aerial adventure in St. Louis: Go Ape-St. Louis

June 9, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Driving through beautiful Creve Coeur Lake Memorial Park in St. Louis, you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve stumbled across an Ewok village. Actually, it’s Go Ape-St. Louis, an aerial obstacle course with ziplines.

The Go Ape experience

Our treetop adventure began with check-in at the red barn, where the attendant holds keys, wallets, and phones behind the counter for safe keeping. Before we headed out, a guide took us through safety training. Participants are responsible for securing themselves to the lines at every point during the adventure. That sounded intimidating to me, but the training was straightforward and thorough.

We started with a ground-level mockup of the safety systems used throughout the course, including the instructional signage posted at every crossing. Once the guide had checked our comprehension, we walked to the first station. It is low to the ground; for those who are unsure if they’re going to be able to handle the experience, this serves as a test site. If, after going through this first station, you don’t want to proceed, Go Ape offers a refund.

None of us quit, though. We went through one at a time so the guide could ensure we knew what we were doing. Then we were released to explore the course at our own pace.

Think of Go Ape as an aerial obstacle course. Each site begins with a rope ladder and ends with a zipline, but in between, we navigated bridges, swinging platforms, hanging rings, and more. (You do get a rest between—there are platforms between every component). As our guide said, what makes this fun is having to earn the zipline rides.

Obstacles are rated from easy to extreme, and any time there’s an “extreme,” there’s also an easier option. We took all the “extreme” paths, and I found it more physically demanding than I had anticipated. But I never felt in danger or even particularly aware of the height, because at all times, I was tethered to a safety line. I knew if I lost my balance, I’d only fall a foot or two at most. In fact, most of the time you can choose to take the easy way out and glide from one tree to the next, using the safety harness. But where’s the fun in that?

The single exception to the “short fall” is Go Ape’s central attraction: the Tarzan swing, which is pretty much exactly what it sounds like: a long arc across open space that ends in a net you have to climb to achieve the platform on the far side. There are actually two, and the first is a warmup for the second. That second is a doozy, but if you chicken out at the last moment, there’s a bypass. (I’m proud to say I made the jump. Although my 12-year-old showed me up by doing it twice.)

Video of the Tarzan swing:

Note age limits: Although some Go Ape locations have a course for younger kids, St. Louis does not—yet, at least. Here, it is open to ages 10 and up. One adult (18+) must be in the treetops for every two children ages 10-15. 16-17 year olds don’t need a chaperone on site, but they will need a waiver signed by a parent or guardian.

Ground Level at Go Ape:

If your family is like mine, your spouse and most of your kids wouldn’t touch an aerial obstacle course with a ten-foot pole. Never fear. Adjacent to the red barn is a spray park and a really nice playground. And if the family wants walk along at ground level and watch their more adventurous counterparts, they can do that, too. You’ll also find employees roaming the course to offer support and suggestions to those in the treetops.

The rope ladders at the start of each site are enclosed within a locked fence; you have to have a code to enter. Inside, Go Ape provides water and paper cups as well as educational signage about conservation, endangered species and information about the trees and undergrowth surrounding you.

Making a day of it:

A treetop adventure lasts 2-3 hours. But because Go Ape partners with state and local parks, there’s always more to do in the immediate vicinity. In St. Louis’ Creve Coeur Memorial Park, you can supplement your treetop adventure with fishing, kayaking, canoeing, dirt biking, or disc golf.

Preparing for your treetop adventure:

Wear jeans and sneakers, and bring gloves. You can go without, but your skin will be happier if you have them. If you forget, Go Ape sells gloves on site.

Hours/Admission:

Hours vary, but Go Ape is generally open March through November. Your best bet is to book online ahead of time. Walk-ins are accepted, but having a reservation guarantees a spot when you arrive. Check out their FAQ page to get more details.

Location:

Go Ape is located at 13219 Streetcar Dr., Maryland Heights, MO 63043. Parking is free on site.

My son and I enjoyed our treetop adventure as guests of Go Ape, but our enthusiasm for the experience is all ours.

Earth Day-friendly bucket list experiences and destinations

April 21, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

In celebration of Earth Day, we’ve rounded up our favorite experiences, tours, and travel operations that promote a spirit of ‘Earth Day every day’. These travel experiences, through their passion for their destinations, help create the next generation of environmentalists.

Earth Day-friendly bucket list experiences:

Uncruise in Panama and Costa Rica:

We just returned from Uncruise’s newest itinerary in Central America, which takes guests through the historic Panama Canal before heading up the Pacific coastline along Panama and Costa Rica. Naturalists onboard the ship, in tandem with local guides and experts, teach guests about the local wildlife in the rainforests, mangroves, and beaches visited. The 62-passenger Safari Voyager allows for a cruise ship experience without the environmental problems large cruise ships pose.

Lindblad Expeditions in the Galapagos:

This Galapagos trip, on the NatGeo Endeavor II, allows families to experience the Galápagos Islands through Lindblad’s ‘360º approach’, guaranteeing an in-depth encounter with its flora and fauna. The 96-guest National Geographic Endeavour II is fully equipped with tools for exploration that will enable travelers to see more of the archipelago’s varied islands and habitat, have up close encounters with wildlife, and experience the Galápagos undersea.

Need more inspiration? We have activities you can add to just about any family trip in the spirit of Earth Day!

Vantage Adventures in Peru:

Vantage Adventures’ Machu Picchu itinerary excels in teaching guests about the storied history of Peru, from the high peaks above Cusco to the fertile plains of the Sacred Valley. Their local guides are unrivaled experts whose love and passion for the country is contagious. We learned so much about Peruvian culture, we could fully appreciate the UNESCO sites we visited, and their conservation. Read more about our time in Peru.

Alaskan Dream Cruises in SE Alaska:

I’ve been singing the praises of Alaskan Dream Cruises’ Alaska itinerary for a long time, and I’m not likely to stop anytime soon. This Alaskan-native-owned company shines when it comes to unique ports of call and intimate, local experiences. We got up close to nature from bears to bald eagles, and our experience was always interwoven with native Alaskan culture and hospitality. After our Alaskan experience, my kids vowed to become stewards of our environment all over again. Read more about our Alaskan Dream experience.

O.A.R.S. river rafting in Idaho:

If you don’t have the know-how or desire to plan your own multi-day backpacking or river rafting trip to experience a week or so in the wilderness with your family, do the next best thing (or if I’m being honest, maybe the first-best thing) and head into the backcountry with O.A.R.S. Their Salmon River itineraries in remote Idaho do more to teach kids (and grown-ups) about the importance of preserving our natural lands than any class or Earth Day festival will do. Immersed in the wilderness, families truly understand why forest service and BLM lands deserve their attention and protection. Read more about our Main Salmon rafting trip.

Tip: Want to embark on your own outdoor adventure bucket list trip? Of course you can! We suggest REI’s new GPS-based apps, which make the outdoors accessible for users of all levels. The REI apps put GPS route info, elevation profiles, interactive maps, photos and more at your fingertips. Try the Hiking Project App, or the bike trail MTB Project App. REI even has a National Parks App!

Top travel destinations of 2016

December 19, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Here at Pit Stops for Kids, we travel approximately once or twice a month, all year round. In December of every year, we take a moment to reflect on the past year’s trips, and try to select the five that stood out the most. It’s a tough decision, and always, there are multiple contenders. But we have our winners! Use the list below as inspiration as you plan your travel for the coming year!

Top travel destinations of 2016 in the US:

While we promote traveling abroad, it’s wonderful that the U.S. is such a large, diverse country. There’s plenty to see and do right here at ‘home’. Below, read about our favorite ‘finds’ in the US:

Alta, Utah:

Honestly, you can’t go wrong anywhere in the greater Salt Lake City area at any time of year. The Wasatch Mountains beckon in all seasons, with mountain biking and hiking opportunities in summer and world-class skiing in winter. We’ve previously explored Park City, Utah, which we’ve named a Best Ski Town. But the narrow slot canyons of SLC also offer amazing mountain vacations, with a decidedly different ambiance.

Alta Ski Resort is tucked away by Cottonwood Canyon, where the ritz and touristy vibe of Park City melts away, leaving a focus on the mountain terrain and cozy accommodations. At Alta, you’re more likely to run into locals than celebrities, and while the ski runs are on the challenging side, there’s a full area dedicated to beginners, and neighboring Snowbird offers additional acreage next door. We absolutely recommend staying at the Alta Lodge if it’s in the budget; this idyllic ski lodge includes most meals and a wonderful kids’ program. Plus, you can ski from the back door. One thing to note: it’s skiing only at Alta, no snowboarding allowed.

Mt. Hood, Oregon:

You know we have a ‘type’ when it comes to family travel destinations…the more outdoorsy, the better. So apologies if mountain vacations aren’t your thing, but stick with me here. Mt. Hood, Oregon is a destination that offers a little of everything: the beauty of nature is all around you, excellent and challenging hiking and mountain biking is right outside your door in summer, skiing abounds in winter. But wait, there’s more…the charming wine and cider-boasting town of Hood River is just a short drive away for foodies (our pick if you’re vacationing without the kids), and Portland is adjacent as well, ideal for those who want to include some city touring into their vacation.

Rent a cabin in Government Camp, and explore for a long weekend, like we did, or stay slightly closer to the city in Collins Lake Resort or Resort of the Mountain. Or do the ultimate: stay at historic Timberline Lodge.

Up next, top travel destinations of 2016 internationally! Click on the button below to continue.

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Guide to Machu Picchu and Sacred Valley Peru

October 17, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

We traveled through Peru with Vantage Adventures, which I highly recommend. However, this guide is designed to be useful to you whether you’re traveling with Vantage, another tour company, or on your own.

The Sacred Valley of Peru is a stunning region of high mountain plains dotted with quinoa, wheat, and Incan corn, impossibly high peaks covered in glaciers, and valleys nestled with medium to small-sized towns. This is the gateway to Machu Picchu, a lower valley of almost tropical rainforest and glacier-carved mountains. This is truly the land of ‘Pachamama’…the Peruvian term for ‘mother earth’.

Guide to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley:

Machu Picchu is undoubtedly the best known Incan site, but the Sacred Valley is filled with them. You’ll want to spend at least three days in this region: two at Machu Picchu and at least one full day and night in the Sacred Valley. Here’s how to go about it:

From Cusco, drive the 1.5-2 hours into the Sacred Valley, and tour the historic ruins at Ollantaytambo (Ollanta for short). This is where you’ll catch your train to Machu Picchu, by the way. But for now, these ruins are a great second to the Saqsayhuaman ruins you probably already saw in Cusco. Built on the mountainside, the Ollanta ruins have three main parts: a hillside granary area that can be explored by sturdy hikers, a sun temple area that can be accessed by about 200 stone steps (definitely worth it), and an Incan town at the base. In the town area, you can see the Inca village’s temple to water (with spring water flowing through it to this day), their irrigation/water system cut into the stone, their family dwellings, and their marketplace. Above, you can see their sun temple and terraces, where they grew crops in the mountainside.

Allow at least three hours to tour it all (and longer if you want to hike to the granary), plus some time in the modern village, which is filled with street hawkers, tourist shops, and the like. This is a busy, lively place, and worth exploring for a bit. You can also visit the salt flats nearby, and other ruins such as Moray, accessible by the Boleto Touristico del Cusco, which has multiple site entry available for one entry fee of 130 soles.

Stay in the Ollanta area; I recommend the luxury oasis of Casa Andina Sacred Valley, if only for the lovely grounds with gardens, hammocks, and a kids’ playground. You’ll want somewhere to unwind after all the bustle of the cities.

Note: If you tour Peru with Vantage Adventures as I did, you’ll send even more time in the Sacred Valley, going places solo tourists cannot, such as a weaving co-op and local school. This type of access is one reason I do recommend Vantage.

On your second day in the Sacred Valley, take the Inca Train from Ollanta to the town of Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). The ride takes about 1.5 hours, and if you book the Vista Dome train, you’ll get stunning views the whole way. The train experience is very upscale in Vista Dome: you’ll be served a ’snack’ that’s large enough to be considered lunch, plus soft drinks, water, or coffee. The seats are comfortable, situated around a table. Note: Book the Inca Train at least six months in advance.

We recommend taking the train around 10 am, arriving at Aguas Calientes around noon. From there, check into your hotel (again, I recommend the Casa Andina option, which is the Casa Adina Machu Picchu), and take the 20 minute bus ride from the town to Machu Picchu. The line for the buses (and therefore the number of people at Machu Picchu) peaks in the early morning (from about 5 am to 7 am), so if you time your visit for mid-day, you’ll have a shorter line and arrive at the site as the early-birds are departing. By timing it this way, we toured Machu Picchu without any crowds at all, staying until closing time at 5 pm.

Absolutely, definitely, without a doubt get a guide for Machu Picchu. This site is absolutely huge, and there is so much to learn. Spend this day taking photos, learning about the site, and enjoying exploring the area. Then, return for a second day at Machu Picchu to do some hiking. (More on that in a minute.)

In the evening, you’ll find the town to be bustling and fun, with a blend of locals and many, many tourists and backpackers finishing the famed Inca Trail. There’s great shopping, and wonderful restaurants, In fact, the best meal we had our entire stay in Peru was at Indio Feliz, where a French expat and his Peruvian wife cook amazing meals. Take time to explore the town…it doesn’t close up early in the evening. Look for souvenirs at the big market by the train station; I noted that jewelry in the established stores were the same price as at the market.

On your second day in Machu Picchu, plan to do some hiking. Take the bus ride back up, and either hike the challenging Wina Picchu (mountain facing the ruins), or hike a few miles of the Inca Trail to the Sun Gate overlooking Machu Picchu. I recommend the latter for families who want a tough but short hike (it’s one mile up, one back) with stunning views. To do the even harder Wina Picchu, you need a hiking permit (get it six months in advance) and an early start (line up for the bus around 4 am). This hike is not for kids or anyone afraid of heights; I only recommend it to teens and adults who hike difficult terrain regularly. Consult a guide before attempting.

The reason for allowing two days in Machu Picchu, even if you don’t care about hiking, is twofold: first, there are times when traveling to the Sacred Valley is inhibited. During our trip, a farmers’ strike closed the main roads into the valley from Cusco, stranding many would-be tourists of Machu Picchu. For those who had planned only one day for the site, they missed out entirely on the number one attraction in Peru. Secondly, Machu Picchu is often shrouded in fog. Going for two days betters your odds for getting a nice day. If you plan two days and then end up only wanting to visit during one, you can find plenty of shopping and exploring in Aquas Calientes.

Tips for touring Machu Picchu:

Get Inca Rail train tickets 6 months ahead.
Get Wina Picchu permit 4 months ahead. Buy Machu Picchu tickets ahead of time as well, to save time at the gate.
If you plan to hike the entire Inca Trail, get permits ahead, and know that guides are required for the 4-day hike.
Try not to look down when taking the 20 minute bus ride from Aquas Calientes to Machu Picchu…it’s quite the ride up the mountainside!

While not as high in elevation as Cusco, Machu Picchu is at around 9,000 feet. Take precautions for altitude sickness.
Bring a packed lunch to Machu Picchu. There’s no where within the site to buy food; you won’t want to leave and come back in.
Get your passport stamped at the station by the buses, just for fun.

You WILL NEED your passport at Machu Picchu. I have no idea why, but you have to show it at the turnstile, as well as at the bus.
Bring mosquito repellent, and double your protection with long sleeves and long pants. The high Andean mosquitoes are not the virus-carrying kind, but they do bite like crazy.
Dress in layers: while you’re relatively close to the equator, you’re also at around 8,000 feet elevation. The weather changes often!