Tofino whale watching with Remote Passages

I’d heard the West Coast of Vancouver Island called the Galapagos of the Northwest, and never is that more apparent than while on the water, whether families are exploring tide pools, kayaking, or in this case, on the open ocean on a Remote Passages whale watch in Tofino BC.

tofino whale watch

Tofino whale watching:

Our Tofino whale watch with Remote Passages just may have been the crown jewel on the treasure that was our Vancouver Island trip. Over 2 1/2 hours long, they call it a Whale Watch Plus, and once you’ve experienced it, it’s obvious why: not only did we enjoy a gray and humpback whale watch, but also observed seals, sea lions, sea otters, puffins, sea stars, bald eagles, and jellyfish (and I’m probably forgetting something). We were there in time to ‘meet’ Tofino’s resident whales, but in migratory seasons, they’re even more abundant (and can include orcas). Note: all photos in this post are actual documentation of wildlife viewed, taken by me.

remote passages

In addition to the abundance of wildlife viewed, what set our Remote Passages whale watch apart from any we’d experienced before is their Zodiac boat transportation and their guide expertise. Zodiacs seat only 12-14 passengers, and are open-air (a closed cabin one is available as well), allowing for unobstructed 360 degree views of the bay, harbor, and open sea. Unlike larger whale watch vessels, in which one side of the boat sees a spout and the other misses out (or runs scrambling to see), on a Zodiac, you’re literally right on the water, able to see everything. (This makes it ideal for young kids.)

remote passages

Our experience started at 8:30 am for our 9 am whale watch, during which we were shown an orientation video that described the wildlife and ecosystem of the Tofino area and the Clayoquot Sound. We then donned full expedition jump suits for our journey. These are a full jacket and pant combo, so guests don’t really need to worry about what to wear on their whale watch. Just make sure you’re in sturdy shoes and have a light sweatshirt or long-sleeved shirt on under. The adult version has a built-in life jacket, and the kids’ version is a two-part ensemble: pants and jacket, with a regular life jacket on over. Remote Passages also offers fleece gloves and knit hats if desired.

remote passages

humpback whale

Our captain and guide, Tyson, guided us onto the Zodiac, where we all had a perfect view of the ocean and surrounding (breathtaking) landscape. We cruised first in-between the small islands dotted around the sound, where Tyson stopped to show us the huge kelp beds whales like to feed on. Almost immediately, we saw the spout of a gray whale. Since whales typically spout and rise above the water 3-4 times before diving deep, we stayed close to view it for about 15 minutes, cutting off the engine and floating peacefully as we watched the whale rise and fall beautifully. I can’t tell you how wonderful it was for Toby, age 7, to be able to see the whale so easily; he’s usually scrambling for a better view for things like this, since he’s the shortest person in most groups. There was no stress to see, no rush to get anywhere, and we all just oohed and awed as Tyson told us more about these amazing animals. (Fun fact: many of the same whales return to Tofino year after year, and up to 200 stay here all season while their counterparts migrate farther north. Remote Passages guides can identify individual whales by the pattern of their barnacles on their backs. The kids had fun learning their names…yes, they name them!)

seals viewed with Remote Passages

remote passages whale watch

After a time, we left our friendly gray whale to explore more of the outer islands, where we could float right up near the rocky shore to spot jellies, sea stars, and an whole colony of seals. We watched their heads pop out of the water mere feet from us, and observed a dispute between two males on the rocks. Farther on, we sat still to photograph a set of four puffins floating on the sea, and caught a rare glimpse of a sea otter.

puffins on the water in Tofino

sea lion in Tofino

We headed out to open ocean in search of humpback whales, and were rewarded with four, two of which were a mother and calf. Tyson explained that ‘humpies’ were more likely to ‘fluke’ (show their tales as they dive deep), which we saw several times. We hung out with them for a time before needing to head back to the dock.

zodiac boat whale watch

We had fine weather, but should you not, the small size of the Zodiac still allows for good viewing, though the water may be choppier. The suits keep you very warm, even in the wind while the boat is moving fast (though you’ll definitely want the gloves in cold weather). Once you return to the dock, hot peppermint tea awaits you.

Tips: You’ll want everyone in your party to be wearing sunscreen on their faces, and sunglasses are helpful. No matter the weather, the glare from the water is significant. Hats may fly off; I suggest using their knit caps that stay on better. The water was smooth they day of our visit, but if it’s choppy, captains carry seasickness remedies. We told ours that Calvin was prone, and he checked on him several times to make sure he wasn’t uncomfortable. (He was fine.)

Distance from the interstate:

Remote Passages is right off Highway 4 in Tofino.

Date last visited:

July 2012

Rates and reservations:

A whale watch is not cheap, so may need to be budgeted for. If you can only experience one Tofino-area excursion, my kids were split between a kayak tour of the intertidal zone or a whale watch. Both are offered by Remote Passages. For the most wildlife viewed, however, a whale watch can’t be beat. Rates are $69 for kids, and $89 for adults at the time of our visit.

Other excursions offered:

If a whale watch is not in your budget, or if you have very young kids who may not be up for 2 1/2 hours on the water, a great option is Remote Passages Meares Island drop-off. Only $20 per person, families enjoy at short (5 minute) Zodiac ride to take the self-guided Meares Island boardwalk rain forest trail. Alternatively, Remote Passages’ Coastal Bear Watch (also 2 1/2 hours) hugs the coastline of nearby islands to spot bears, and also other intertidal zone wildlife and eagles, seals, and shore birds. Their Hot Springs Explorer takes visitors all the way to to a natural hot springs in the ancient rain forest, but as this tour is 7 hours long, it’s best saved for older children and adults.

Directions:

Remote Passages is located at the bottom of Wharf Street, off Main. It’s easy to find!

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Kayaking the Vancouver Island west coast with Majestic Ocean Kayaking

Families don’t have to venture far into the Pacific or spend a whole day (and a whole lotta cash) seeing nature up close on a Vancouver Island west coast kayaking tour. When we joined Majestic Ocean Kayaking on their half-day harbor tour, we hadn’t even pushed off from the boat dock before Calvin spotted a massive sea star glowing purple and pink under the shallow water. “What, that little thing?” our guide, Jeremy, joked, and soon we saw why: intertidal nature was all around us, including dozens more sea stars of even more impressive size.

Majestic Ocean Kayaking

Once we’d set forth into Ucluelet B.C.‘s scenic harbor, Jeremy pointed out a harbor seal and a bald eagle within minutes (it may have been within seconds…my mind was too busy spinning to be sure). Throughout our next 2 1/2 hours on the water, we saw numerous other marine animals and birds, and learned much about the intertidal zone area. We paddled up close to the shore of several tiny islands, explored the muscles and clams clinging to the surface of pier pilings, and gaped at more than one shipwrecked vessel (lying abandoned in the low tide).

Majestic Ocean Kayaking

The half-day harbor tour was the perfect length for our kids, and even though the day was chilly, we stayed dry and warm in our neoprene kayaking skirts, booties, and shirts (all supplied by Majestic along with PFDs). We stopped once for a snack and water break, and Jeremy kept the kids interested throughout with conversational tidbits. We paused to check out a huge eagle’s nest, play with another harbor seal, and learn about local points of interest.

If your family is ready for something more daring, Majestic also offers full day tours of the Broken Group Islands, which is recommended for kids 12 and older (but which Jeremy assured me even Toby, age 7, could do if we so desired). I’m tempted to agree (it’s definitely on our list for next visit) but without having experienced the full-day option, I’m not sure my school-aged kids were quite ready for a full day on the open ocean. The benefit of the harbor tour is that the water is protected (no waves!) and you’re always close to shore.

majestic ocean kayaking in Ucluelet

Date last visited:

July 2012

Distance from the interstate:

About 10 minutes from BC 4 (the premiere east-west highway on Vancouver Island.

Rates:

At the time of our visit, Majestic’s harbor tour was $67 Canadian per person, which I’ve found to be right on par with similar rafting and kayaking experiences of the same length and difficulty. Their full-day options start at $145 per person, and they do offer multi-day expeditions as well.

Directions:

Majestic is located at 1167 Helen St., which is at the end of Marine Road (and at the end of the peninsula) in Ucluelet. If you’re in the ocean, you’ve gone too far. If you’re staying in Ucluelet, you’re only minutes away, no matter where you are. If you’re staying in Tofino, plan on a 30 minute drive.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my family and I experienced Majestic’s harbor tour at no expense. This compensation came with no expectation of a positive review (but does enable me to keep my readers informed of great outdoor travel opportunities such as this one).

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Where to stay in Ucluelet, BC: Black Rock Oceanfront Resort

What everyone needs after an active day hiking, kayaking, or touring Vancouver Island’s west coast: a plunge pool and hot tub, rain shower, and cheery fire waiting at their resort. Families vacationing in Ucluelet BC get all that and more in Black Rock Oceanfront Resort. What, precisely? Try heated bathroom tiles, dramatic views, and fine dining, but more importantly to parenting traveling with kids: full kitchens, free bike rentals, and oversized tubs.

black rock resort view

Located on the far western coast of Vancouver Island, Black Rock Oceanfront Resort is an outdoor-loving family’s dream. Not only do you get plenty of space (this resort is suites-only), but Black Rock was designed with nature at the forefront: the contemporary architecture only accentuates what’s already there, allowing for breathtaking and dramatic views. These views don’t come cheaply, but what families get in return cannot be measured in a room rate. During our visit, we felt as though we were outside near the crashing surf and rugged coastline the whole time, even when we were indoors.

Black Rock hotel lobby

Our family of five had adjoining suites (one studio and one one-bedroom), which included two huge bathrooms (both with rain shower and tub), a full kitchen and living area, plus an extra kitchenette, two bedrooms, sleeping for eight, and even a washer-dryer. We also enjoyed complimentary wifi (standard) and two spacious decks past our floor-to-ceiling glass windows overlooking the Pacific.

black rock kitcenette

black rock suite

The resort boasts a full fitness center and spa, with kid-friendly access to the outside plunge pool and two hot tubs. When I think of the term ‘plunge pool’, I think deep and cold; this one is neither: it’s only 3 meters deep and heated, but still significantly colder than than hot tubs, making it fun to jump from one to another in chilly weather. Families can cook full meals in the kitchens, but we opted to only prepare breakfast, the adults eating dinner out at Black Rock’s Fetch Restaurant. They do have a kids’ menu that looked pretty tempting (and only $10 per plate Canadian), but we ordered a pizza for our kids. The ambiance of Fetch is half the draw (it’s located right next to the coastline view), and we wanted to enjoy it in peace.

black rock

While staying on-site families have free use of cruiser bikes to use around Ucluelet, as well as the option to join in for various family-friendly area activities, such as hiking in Pacific Rim National Park, kayaking with nearby Majestic tours, or clamming, whale watching, or surfing (lessons available!).

black rock

Date last visited:

July 2012

Distance from the Intestate: a few minutes from the Pacific Rim Highway (4).

Room Rates:

Rates vary widely by season; check the Black Rock website for the latest information. Approximate pricing for the week we were on-site (in the height of the summer season) was $300 Canadian.

Dining options:

In addition to Fetch, Black Rock is adjacent to the town of Ucluelet, which offers dining in every price rage.

Directions:

Black Rock Resort is located at 596 Marine Drive, Ucluelet. It’s a 2.5 hour drive from the ferry terminal in Departure Bay (for travel from Vancouver) or a 20 minute drive from Tofino.

University of British Columbia’s Museum of Anthropology

Vancouver’s Museum of Anthropology is the perfect first stop for visiting families (and a great option during rainy weather, too). Much more comprehensive than we thought it would be, the Museum of Anthropology, or MOA, features not only an impressive main gallery of First Nations totem pole carvings, but also room after room of artifacts of native peoples (both of Western Canada and elsewhere). You come away with greater respect and understanding of the first people to live on this land.

museum of anthropology

MOV focuses on ancient artifacts and cultures, but throughout the exhibits, it’s evident that pains are taken to bridge the displays with the modern-day people whose stories they tell. While a tour through the totem poles is a must see, most fascinating to us was the first-hand accounts written by the ancestors of those first inhabitants, many of whom donated various artifacts to the museum.

The Great Hall is the first thing kids will see, and features totem poles, house posts, and carved figures (most from the mid-19th century) from several Northwest Coast nations. These artifacts become meaningful as kids read about the reasoning behind various carvings, and learn the different uses for totems and the stories told through the carvings.

MOA

An outside exhibit includes two Haida houses and several more totems. Visitors can walk around them on their own, but you get twice the meaning out of the experience if you tag along with one of the guided walks, which will take you inside the houses and teach about village life, the different types of totems, and the purposes of the two dwellings. The guided talks are only about 30 minutes, and squirmy kids can always exit.

Date last visited:

July 2012

Distance from the interstate:

15 minutes from BC-99.

Hours of operation:

10 am to 5 pm daily during summer months. Winter hours vary by day.

Admission:

Adults: $16.75 Kids: $14.50 Age 6 and under: free. The museum does offer a family rate of $44 for a family of two adults and up to four kids.

Dining options:

There’s a museum cafe, but no outside food or drink. It would be possible to eat around the grounds near the parking area.

Directions:

From downtown Vancouver, the museum is 20 minutes by car. Located on the University of Vancouver campus at 6393 NW Marine Drive, it’s accessible from BC-99 to 4th to Marine. There is a parking charge (only parking is in an adjacent garage), so come prepared. Our charge was $6 for 2 hours.

We experienced the Museum of Anthropology as guests of Tourism Vancouver. While we appreciate this chance to review quality attractions for our readers, it came with no expectation of a positive review.

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Where to stay in Vancouver BC: Coast Plaza Hotel and Suites

Vancouver, BC may be one of the best cities to tour with kids. It’s full of outdoor experiences active kids crave–biking, beaches, parks and suspension bridges–while retaining the sophistication parents enjoy and seek to introduce to their children. And all within a stone’s throw of the action (but please don’t throw stones) is the Coast Plaza Hotel and Suites Hotel.

view from Coast Plaza suite

Located in Vancouver’s vibrant West End neighborhood just three blocks from English Bay and beaches in one direction and five blocks from the entrance to Stanley Park in the other, the Coast Plaza is largely a suite hotel, which means that families will enjoy plenty of room and a full kitchen in affordable units. According to Vancouver bloggers I asked, the Coast Plaza’s perfect layout for families used to be something of a local secret. (The hotel was traditionally known as a business hotel.) I’d say the word is out, because we encountered many families enjoying the hotel during our July 2012 visit.

coast plaza

coast plaza

During our two night visit in a 1-bedroom suite, we used the kitchen to prepare all our breakfasts in-room, as well as pack our lunches for each day on-the-go, which means we saved a bundle on dining out. (We could have easily made dinner in our rooms as well; there’s a nice Safeway down the street and a beautiful produce market right on the block.) Garage parking is on-site, and includes unlimited in-and-out privileges. Because we were so close to the attractions we wanted to see, however, we kept the car parked most of our visit. The one exception: we took it out for a trip outside the city center to Capilano Bridge and Grouse Mountain.

coast plaza

The only metro Vancouver area the hotel is really too far from is Canada Place: we walked, but it took us the better part of an hour and was tough on little feet. If you decide to head that direction (and you should), ask the concierge (on-site) for the Coast Plaza shuttle schedule. This complimentary shuttle runs to Canada Place and elsewhere in the city several times a day, but we were told we needed to reserve a spot 24 hours ahead. If you don’t plan that far out, a taxi to Canada Place from the hotel is approximately $12 Canadian.

indoor pool coast plaza

Date last visited:

July 2012

Distance from the interstate:

Just a few blocks from BC-99.

Room and hotel amenities:

In-suite, families can expect to find full fridges, ovens, dishwashers, and all the dinnerware, cups, utensils, and cooking pots and pans you might need. The bathroom in our one-bedroom suite was spacious and included both a tub and shower, and the beds were deliciously soft. Even the pull-out couch was comfortable. There are TVs in both the living room area and bedroom, and a coffee maker for the morning (with coffee, creamer, and sugar provided).

The Coast Plaza offers free wifi (a huge plus) and a full fitness club. Kids will love the heated indoor pool and hot tub. A restaurant is located on-site (hotel guests receive a discount) and there’s a full room service menu. Upon check-in, guests receive a ‘cookies and milk card’ from room service, which they can redeem for complimentary chocolate chip cookies and milk for everyone in their party. Honestly, the hotel has all the amenities families could ask for.

Compared to other Vancouver hotels I’ve enjoyed, the Coast Plaza is older and showing its wear, but what it lacks in cosmetics, it more than makes up for in amenities and perks for families. If your plans include plenty of time in Stanley Park and English Bay, it’s the clear choice.

English Bay

Room rates:

At the time of our visit, rates started at a very affordable (for city rates!) $199 for a standard room, and approximately $299 for a one-bedroom suite. Rates vary by season and date.

Directions:

The Coast Plaza is located at 1763 Comox. From BC-99, take W. Georgia to Denman, then turn left onto Comox.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my family and I enjoyed a stay at the Coast Plaza at no charge, for the purpose of review. While we appreciate the opportunity to experience what they offer, this compensation came with no expectation of a positive review.

Exploring Vancouver B.C.: Sewell’s Sea Safari

Ready for a wet and wild way to spend a day in Vancouver, B.C.? Sea Safari tours of the beautiful Howe Sound and adjacent fjords are conducted by Sewell’s Marina, located right on the water west of the city. A full service operation, visitors can rent various sized boats to tour the bay on their own, join charter fishing trips, or sign up for the wildly popular (and with good reason) Sea Safari. These two-hour eco-tours run daily from April to October, and introduce visitors to the stunning scenery and wildlife of coastal British Columbia from aboard a custom-designed, high-speed, 30 ft. rigid hull inflatable boat.


Tours sometimes depart from Canada Place in Vancouver, or visitors with cars can drive north to the marina directly. Plan on seeing fabulous wildlife, perhaps even including seals!

Extra tip: Dress in layers. Even in summer, Vancouver can be chilly, and you’ll be on the water! Bring sunglasses, sunscreen, and a sweatshirt or light jacket at the very least!

Date last visited: I didn’t get a chance to experience this adventure for myself, but was briefed by Sewell media staff.

Operating Hours: Mon-Sun, 8 am to 7 pm

Ticket prices: $73 per adult, $43 per child (Canadian prices)

Reservations: (604) 921-3474 You can also make advanced reservations here.

Directions: Located at 6409 Bay Street in West Vancouver, the Sewell Marina is an easy drive from downtown. From the city centre, head west on Georgia Street (towards Stanley Park) and cross the Lions Gate Bridge following Hwy 99 North. At the North end of the Lions Gate Bridge, follow the overhead signs to West Vancouver and Horseshoe Bay (17 km ).

Turn right up Taylor Way (still following the signs to the ferry terminal at Horseshoe Bay). At the top of Taylor Way there is a major intersection with signs showing the way to Horseshoe Bay and Whistler. Turn left onto Highway 1 and head west, following all signs to Horseshoe Bay. Stay in the far right lane and exit (3) at the Horseshoe Bay “Village” sign. Exit 3 is the same as for ferries. Take village lane. This will bring you into Horseshoe Bay village. At the water, turn left on to Bay Street. Look for the blue building your next immediate right – in the center of the bay, to the right of the big propeller water fountain, is the home of Sewell’s Ocean Adventure Center.

Exploring Vancouver B.C.: Capilano Suspension Bridge

Only ten minutes outside of the city center, Vancouver offers family-friendly outdoor attractions kids will go crazy for in Capilano and Grouse Mountain. The first stop (and an easy free shuttle ride from Canada Place), is Capilano Suspension Bridge, an engineering marvel stretched 450 feet across a high river gorge in thanks to nineteenth century Vancouver settler and builder George Grant Mackay. In the years since its completion, the bridge and its surrounding businesses, including a restaurant, have been turned in to an interactive playland ripe for exploration.

capilano-suspension-bridge-vancouver

In addition to daring a trip across the bridge (which felt very sturdy but does sway alarmingly in the breeze!), kids can get a ‘squirrel’s eye view’ of the alpine rainforest canopy in the park’s Treetop Adventure, a network of ariel platforms connected by smaller bridges making their way through the dense forest. From there, a selection of forest paths lead visitors through the forest floor, where wildlife is pointed out on educational displays, ponds and undergrowth host small critters and ducks, and smaller, arched bridges traverse streams.

Just for kids: Capilano does a great job drawing kids into the eco and educational aspects of the Treetop area with an interactive scavenger hunt. Upon completion (which takes kids through various tasks they find through clues) they receive a prize.

treetop capilano

The park’s newest feature, the Cliffwalk, was my favorite. Completed in early 2011, this exhibit leads visitors out over the edge of the gorge on a glass and steel pathway (with solid glass side rails). It was a thrill to look down and see only air! The views were fabulous, and you can get great photos of the suspension bridge from the Cliffwalk, too.

From Capilano, it’s an easy public bus ride ($2.50 fare) to Grouse Mountain (ten minute ride), where a veritable outdoor playground awaits. For the price of admission, families can take the Skyride tram to the top of the mountain, explore the wildlife refuge, watch productions on the Theater in the Sky, take a chairlift ride, and more. For additional cost, zip lines and the Eye in the Sky wind turbine will catch kids’ eye. If you think you’ll have kids wanting to do it all (like mine), extra activities can be bundled with general admission.

cliffwalk

Extra Tip: If Capilano leaves you wanting more, another (free) suspension bridge exists outside of Vancouver. You’ll need a car to visit the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge, but the effort will be rewarded with an even more authentic view of natural British Columbia. Check out five other adventurous things to do with kids outside of Vancouver at local blogger The Travelling Mom.

Date last visited: June 13, 2011

Distance from the interstate/city: Five to ten minutes outside downtown Vancouver.

Hours of operation: May 28th-September: 8:30 am to 8 pm.

Admission costs: Adults are $32, youth (age 13-16) are $21, children (6-12) are $12, and under 6 are free. Get 20% off if you arrive at the park an hour before closing! (This is do-able: the park generally takes 1-1.5 hours to view.)

Food services: There are several snack shops and a counter-service restaurant within the park, and a cozy cottage-style full-service restaurant directly across the street (a great choice while waiting for your shuttle).

Website: www.capbridge.com

Directions: Catch the free shuttle from Canada Place in Vancouver (it also stops at several downtown hotels), or drive through Stanley Park over Lion’s Gate Bridge and along Capilano Road to 3735 Capilano.

Exploring Vancouver, B.C.: Granville Island with kids

When I set out to explore Vancouver’s Granville Island on a sunny Monday afternoon, I didn’t expect to like it as much as I did. Known best for its upscale public market and boutique shops, I certainly didn’t think it would have much to entice kids. I was wrong. Granville Island began winning me over before I even got there: from the dock at the very end of Hornby Street, I waited (all of two minutes) for the Aquabus to carry me across the hairsbreath of water that separates the mainland from the island, and when it arrived in all it’s cute, multi-colored glory, bumped up against the dock, and the operator gave a friendly wave, I was in love.

granville-island-aquabus

Once on-island, the public market is only a few blocks away. I stepped in, looked around, and instantly reached for my camera: the colors, smells, and sheer artistry of the arrangement of food and wares was enough to take my breath away (or just make me want to breathe very deeply). I’d wondered what there’d be for kids to do, but between the samples being offered around every corner, the merchandise piled high in all directions, and the people watching, I shouldn’t have worried.

granville-island-public-market

I immediately bought a French crepe with cinnamon and sugar, then set out to see what other tricks this little island had up its sleeve. The shops along the adjacent streets were indeed upscale, but not stuffy. I’d estimate that I’d feel comfortable taking my kids into at least every other one to poke around. The best was one (or rather several) I stumbled upon by accident: Kids Market on Cartwright Street. This two-story marketplace stuffs 25 shops under one roof, and the result is an eye-popping array of toys, stuffed animals, puppets, clothing, and books overflowing from every countertop, shelf, and hallway. If the kids get tired of wandering (ha!), there’s even a play space with brightly colored tubes and ball pits that run the length and height of the building.

kids-market
After my visit to toy heaven, I returned to the public market for lunch: the countless options within close proximity make it an ideal place for a family meal. Among the long stretch of food stalls, I found a vegetarian Thali dish served on a tin plate (you get a $2 deposit back for returning it). Next to me, a toddler ate organic cheese and grapes bought a few isles down, and a little girl worked her way through a danish as big as her head.

kids-market-granville-island

Also on-island are restaurants, comedy clubs, art galleries, parks, and kayak and boat rentals. Talented street musicians perform most days, and kids can walk along the harbor watching the boats come in. It’s a wonderful way to either spend very little money or quite a lot while experiencing Vancouver.

Date last visited: June 13, 2011

Distance from downtown Vancouver: Two minutes by boat or bridge.

Admission: None, but passage on an Aquabus will cost $3.25 for adults and $1.75 for kids (one way) from the Hornby dock. No need to purchase ahead of time. (Full list of schedules and fares.)

Hours of operation: The island is open seven days a week, 9 am to 7 pm.

Directions: The Hornby dock is a 15-20 minute walk from most points in downtown Vancouver. (It took me 20 from Canada Place.) City bus routes can also get you there. If you opt to drive, the Granville Bridge is accessed by Granville Street.

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Exploring Vancouver, B.C.: Stanley Park by bicycle

Vancouver’s Stanley Park consists of an expanse of wilderness at the northern end of the city that begs for family exploration. It’s dotted with totem poles, lakes, botanical gardens, beaches, and even an aquarium and offers hiking, carriage rides, interactive historical and ecological displays, and playgrounds. It’s also 1000 acres in size, which makes it the ideal space to explore by bicycle. spokes-vancouver-bc We found several bicycle rental companies in the immediate vicinity of the park entrance on West Georgia Street, and settled on Spokes, a friendly, bustling shop at the corner of Denman and West Georgia (look for its bright orange and yellow signage). We arrived on a summer Friday afternoon, and completed the rental process and were outfitted with bikes, helmets, and bike locks within minutes. Families can start riding directly from the shop (just walk the bikes across the intersection at the crosswalk and merge onto the Seaside Bike Route, otherwise known as the Stanley Park Sea Wall. The Sea Wall bike route hugs the water along the edge of the park, and affords incredible views of the bay, Lion’s Gate Bridge, and the downtown Vancouver city scape as you round the point of Coal Harbor. No cars are allowed on the path, and it’s well-marked to direct two-way bike, pedestrian, and roller blade traffic. It does get narrow at some spots (which can be especially tricky to navigate around bends), but assuming your kids aren’t racing each other (perhaps an erroneous assumption), everyone should come out unscathed. sea-wall If you follow the Sea Wall all the way around the park, you’ll have pedaled over eight kilometers, wrapping back around to West Georgia Street by way of the scenic Lost Lagoon lake. If that route’s more than you (or smaller legs) bargained for, several additional bike paths cut through the interior of the park, cutting a significant portion off the loop (and as a bonus, they take you past Beaver Lake and the intersection for the Vancouver Aquarium, and miniature railway, which we didn’t get the chance to try but I’m told are excellent). Note: Bike and pedestrian traffic along the sea wall is counter-clockwise only, so turning around and retracing your steps is not an option. The best thing about biking the Sea Wall (apart from all the sightseeing ground you’ll cover while everyone gets exercise) is the abundance of stops for kids along the way. Five minutes into your ride, you’ll encounter the totem pole replicas carved out of red cedar at the Brockton Point Interpretive Center, educating visitors about First Nations history. Further along, the wall gives way to small sandy beaches with drift wood logs, rock formations, and softly lapping surf. Further still, your kids will roll to a stop (and walk their bikes) past a huge playground complete with a water play splash park (with air-blown ‘drying station’), climbing structures, and slides. Around the <i>next</i> bend, there’s a large outdoor pool overlooking the bay, another playground, and an echo-y tunnel to hide in (or rather your kids will, giving you a heart attack). totem-poles-stanley-park After the pool, the sea wall ends and the bike route climbs the hillside to run adjacent to the traffic on Park Drive, but we still felt very safe; the path is still bike/pedestrian only and any intersections are clearly marked with stop signs. It was at this point that we opted to cut through the park interior back to West Georgia, allowing us to ride past the botanical gardens and entrance to the aquarium. (To go this route, catch the intersecting path at Pipeline Road, about four kilometers into the loop.) Hours of operation: Stanley Park is open during daylight hours. Spokes bike rental is open 8 am to 9 pm, seven days a week. No reservations are required! Bike rental rates: Rates vary depending on the style of bike you’re renting. Child rates start at approximately $4.50/hour or $13/a half-day, adults a few dollars more. Tandem bikes and bike trailers are also available. Food services: Several exist throughout the park. Along the sea wall, families will find more than one burger/seafood joint, and a snack shack-type food stand near the pool. We didn’t stop, but I’m sure I remember smelling French fries and funnel cakes. Website: www.spokesbicyclerentals.com Directions: You can actually follow the bike and pedestrian path (sea wall) all the way from Canada Place, turning left and walking one block on Delman Street, but it’s an approximately 20-30 minute walk with small children. Otherwise, the drive is about 12 blocks West Georgia and Burrard.

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The Four Seasons Vancouver: kid-friendly luxury

Last week, had I been asked to describe the Four Seasons family of resorts, I would have used phrases such as ‘exceptional reputation’, ‘luxury accommodations’, or ‘famed attention to detail’. After spending three blissful days at the Four Seasons Vancouver, I can add: ‘family-friendliness’.

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Surprised? You shouldn’t be. The same qualities that make the Four Seasons Vancouver an outstanding resort for adult travelers are what make it great for kids: the staff knows how to go the extra mile, and then does it…your entire stay. Kids are catered to with their own room service menu, child-sized robes, and kid-friendly (and wallet-friendly) food in the Four Seasons Vancouver’s YEW Restaurant and Bar (they eat breakfast for free, for starters). I love that children are served healthy (and appealing) appetizers immediately upon sitting down to eat, along with a small toy or goodie with high entertainment value like Wikki Stix. In fact, Kids in the Kitchen cooking classes are offered for children as well, during which your aspiring chefs can experience a real working kitchen under the supervision of Four Seasons pastry chefs.

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My room during my Four Seasons stay was perfectly configured for family travel: the suite featured both a bedroom and living area/bedroom with pull-out couch (separated by glass French doors) and two full bathrooms. (The bathrooms are small, but both feature tubs in addition to showers.) Two LCD TVs, two full closets, and two sets of chairs and corner tables made spreading out easy.

The indoor/outdoor pool and fitness center were only an elevator ride away (it was fun to view the outdoor 4th floor deck and garden space from our 26th floor window), and for those early morning swims the kids just have to take? Parents can sit poolside with a complimentary paper, coffee, and fruit.

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Does this level of customer service and amenity come with a price? Sure. But what family travelers receive in return far outweighs the room rate: the chance to relax with their kids, and the opportunity to unwind after a busy (and let’s face it…sometimes stressful) travel day with little ones. The boost such amenities offer parents, especially while touring a busy city like Vancouver, can be the difference between a tiring, hurried vacation and a truly enjoyable one.

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Date last visited: June 10, 2011

Room Rates: Check the Four Season Vancouver reservation page for up-to-date room rate information.

Reservations: Book online, or call (604) 689-9333.

Restaurants and food services: The YEW Restaurant and Bar is decidedly upscale, but a great option for families in the morning hours. What’s even better for families is the Four Season’s full in-room dining menu, complete with children’s menus for every meal.

Directions: The Four Seasons Vancouver is located at 791 W. Georgia Street in the heart of the City Centre. Note: The main entrance of Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver is located on Howe Street, which is a one-way street. Guests using an electronic navigation system to locate the Hotel should input “650 Howe Street” to arrive at the Hotel’s front entrance.

If arriving from the airport, simply take the Canada Line (rapid transit system) directly to the hotel. The Canada Line departs from the Link Building, which is located between the domestic and international terminals.

As I disclose whenever applicable, the Four Seasons Vancouver hosted my stay in full in a deluxe executive suite. While I appreciate their hospitality, it came with no expectations of a positive review.