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Baja vacation: Cerritos Beach review

April 2, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

During the current Covid environment, face masking and social distancing is necessary everywhere in the world. When traveling to Mexico in spring 2021, testing is required within 72 hours of returning to the U.S. Read on for testing options in Baja.

Located approximately one hour north of Cabo San Lucas on the Baja peninsula of Mexico, Cerritos Beach is a laidback surf town perfect for a relaxed, socially-distant Baja vacation. Our Cerritos Beach review includes where to stay, where to eat, and what to do.

Cerritos Beach review:

Cerritos Beach is right of Highway 19 north of busy Cabo, down a dirt road. Yep, you’ll go from the highway immediately to dirt. No worries…this is Baja. Within this small surf community, you’ll find amazing food, great bars with low prices, and plenty of vacation rentals, Airbnbs, and studio rooms to rent. The beach is casual and fun, with amenities such as surf lessons, surfboard and boogie board rentals, and beachfront food. While sitting at the beach, you can order guacamole made-to-order, fresh cerviche, cold beers, and even a massage…all for roughly half what you’d spend on a beach in the States.

Where to stay:

We found this ideal AirBnb at Puesta del Sol, in the Sunrise complex on Cerritos Beach. I highly recommend it; it was only a five-minute walk to the beach, came with two surfboards, three beach umbrellas, three beach chairs, several coolers, plenty of beach towels, and a wagon to pull them all in. Directly downstairs from our two-bedroom, two-bathroom unit with rooftop lounging space and BBQ was a pool and bar (with lunch and dinner), and within a two minute walk were two other restaurants. We had everything we needed (once we’d made a stop at a grocery store between the Cabo airport and Cerritos).

There are plenty of other vacation rentals in the immediate area. We also recommend Barefoot Luxury Seaside Cerritos and the smaller huts right on the beach (check Airbnb).

Where to eat:

Where NOT to eat?? You can’t go wrong, honestly. The number one recommendation that we wholeheartedly endorse: definitely try Barracuda’s, located right next door to Puesta del Sol, directly up the dirt road from the beach. They have the best $2 tacos ever, plus wonderful margaritas and ‘surfers burritos’ big enough for two meals. The ambiance is wonderful too: all open-air in a garden-like setting.

Freesouls Cerritos Beach is also within a two-minute walk, featuring pizzas with ocean views and a pool to dip into while waiting for your food. Ditto for Riptide Bar and Grill, up the hill by the historic Hacienda (which you can usually tour, but was closed to the public at the time of our visit). And directly below our rooms at Sunrise, the Casa Maya had the hands-down best sushi and sushimi we’ve had in a very long time.

Cerritos Beach review: where to eat in Cerritos Beach Mexico

You can get cold beer and fresh cocktails at all of these locations, plus virgin drinks for the kids, and ice cream on the beach.

What to do in Cerritos Beach:

You’ll probably want to simply chill by the beach, pool, or on your personal rooftop in a hammock, but when you’re ready, there’s plenty to do. Surf lessons are about $50 for 1.5 hours, or you can get a massage on the beach for $40/hour. You can swim, surf, or boogie board (but remember that this is a surf beach, so waves can be sizable at times).

The town of Todos Santos is about 15 minutes north, offering fun shopping and more dining, and you can take just about any public dirt road toward the coastline and find more pristine beaches. From December to March, turtles are released on the beach in Todos Santos nightly; after mid-March, the releases are only every few days.

While Covid testing is required to re-enter the United States, Mexico offeres several testing options. The most affordable we found was to drive the short distance to Todos Santos where we received rapid tests at St. Jude’s for $50 U.S. each.

Cerritos Beach review: What to do in Cerritos Beach Mexico

You can drive the hour across the peninsula to La Paz to see the other coastline, but we were content to stay in Cerritos and Todos Santos, enjoying the sun, surf, and sand.

Have you been to Cerritos Beach? What are your recommendations?

Budget-friendly Spring Break destinations you haven’t thought of

March 15, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Planning a Spring Break vacation? With only a week or so off school, it can be hard to find a vacation that’s both easy to plan and easy on the wallet. Below, we have over a dozen ideas throughout the US, Caribbean, and Mexico for budget-friendly Spring Break destinations.

Desert destinations:

An easy way to enjoy a warm-weather vacation while saving money is to head to the desert instead of to the beach. Bonus points if you can easily drive to any of these California and Southwest locations:

Borrego Springs:

Never heard of it? I’m not surprised! This oasis in Southern California is generally off the radar, but a great fit for active families. Head to the Palm Canyon Hotel & RV Resort, a boutique clamping resort where families can stay in vintage Airstreams and hike trails location less than two miles from the resort. February, March, and April is the time to come to see wildflowers, and always, the night sky displays brilliant views.

Death Valley National Park:

Located an easy drive from Las Vegas, NV, Death Valley is our top pick for outdoorsy families looking for a warm-weather destination. Camp in the park to save money, or stay at Furnace Creek Resort. Our kids love the wide open grassy spaces, the tennis and basketball courts, and the spring-fed pool. In the park, multiple hikes await: go in the mornings and evenings and spend the middle of the day swimming!

Scottsdale, Arizona:

Family travel website Global Munchkins recommends Scottsdale for spring break…even if you’re not a baseball fan. For a splurge, stay at the Westin Kierland Resort and get a full water park for the price of your stay. Be sure to take kids to the fun shops and dining options in downtown Scottsdale, and visit Phoenix, and sure, spring training, while you’re in the area!

Tip: Pick up youth baseball equipment to ‘get in the game’ before a trip to watch spring training!

On the way to… destinations:

Let’s get real: sometimes, you’re spring break trip is really just a stopover en route to Grandma’s house, a sporting event, or a longer vacation. We’ve compiled the best ‘on the way to…’ locations from top bloggers.

Bowling Green KY:

Often a stopover on the way to Florida or other southern locales, Bowling Green, Kentucky is right on I-65 and is home to an astounding 21 cave tours in the immediate area. Road Trips for Families highlights the best, along with dining and lodging recommendations in the city. If nothing else, be sure to see Mammoth Cave National Park, and perhaps stop at an area museum. You can even at at a dairy and see a car museum on the same day!

West Georgia:

Already vacationing (or living) in Atlanta or St. Simon’s Island? Field Trips with Sue has a full itinerary of West Georgia for an affordable spring break getaway. Highlights include Providence Canyon, Gaines (complete with frontier fort) and the Warm Springs pools. This type of tour offers kids a lesson in history and ecology without them realizing they’re learning…away from school.

French Lick Springs:

For those in the middle of the country, AdventureMom suggests taking a chance on scenic French Lick Springs Resort, Indiana. This resort is known for its stunning architecture, but it also offers activities year round (not just in the summer months). Families can have kids join the kids club, play foot golf, learn about the history of the hotel, and swim in the pools year round. Oh, and parents can get a spa treatment.

Beach destinations:

Want to be warm and feel sand between your toes? You can still book a beach vacation at spring break affordably! Here’s where to go:

St. John, USVI:

Going to the Caribbean for spring break may not seem like a new idea, but St. John is an unique location you may not have considered. Trekaroo recommends spending your Virgin Islands vacation on St. John because of its low-key, quiet atmosphere, and the many outdoor activities afforded. Virgin Islands National Park is here, complete with multiple hiking trails and beaches, and snorkeling is abundant. Stay in a vacation home to save money!

Ventura, CA:

Just an hour north of Los Angeles, Ventura County West is an easy-to-reach section of the California coastline. Families get both seaside charm and inland adventure. Don’t miss the whale migration at this time of year, taking place through mid-April. When we visited, we used Island Packers; rates start at $37 for adults and $27 for kids. Time your visit right, and you may also see the Celebration of the Whales Festival (March 20, Oxnard) or the California Strawberry Festival (May 21 & 22, Oxnard). Either way, definitely head out to the Channel Islands!

Zihuatanejo, Mexico:

I’d never heard of Zihuatanejo until it was recommended by Pint-Sized Pilot: see the top 10 things to do in this Mexican beach destination! This authentic, non-touristy resort village is quiet, scenic, and affordable with local eats. Visit Zihuatanejo markets, enjoy its festivals, and play in its beaches. It’s located on the Pacific side of Mexico, by Ixtapa.

Loreto, Mexico:

Located on the gulf side of Baja California, Loreto is a great pick for families who want to find an alternative to the all-inclusive resort scene. Walking On Travels recommends finding accommodations in town in her Loreto travel guide, to take advantage of local dining opportunities and the town vibe. Snorkeling, whale watching, and swimming is not far away!

Ski destinations:

Haven’t gotten enough ski days in yet? I’m with you! Some of our favorite spring break ski destinations are smaller, hometown resorts that won’t break the bank.

June Mountain:

Located adjacent to Mammoth Mountain in Northern California, smaller June Mountain offers affordable lift tickets and lessons amid the most scenic runs out there. In the backyard of Yosemite National Park, June also has a very friendly atmosphere…the lodge is cozy and warm, the instructors cheerful and not rushed, and the lift lines are usually nonexistent. Stay near Mammoth to get the best of both worlds!

Angel Fire:

Heading to New Mexico this spring break for some warm sunshine and some skiing? Get both by combining a trip to Santa Fe with a stay at Angel Fire. Trekaroo recommends this ski resort because of its great amenities for families at The Lodge and the ability to night ski here (a big plus for teens). For spring breaks without much snow, there’s a wide variety of summer activities at Angel Fire as well.

City destinations:

We love city vacations, and during spring break, we like to head somewhere that’s less likely to have frigid temperatures and snowstorms. These outside-the-box ideas fit the bill!

Seattle, WA:

Blog With 2 Kids in Tow recommends Seattle and neighboring Bainbridge Island as a temperate getaway with both an city and outdoor-venture vibe. Kids love taking the ferry, checking out the city markets, and burning energy in the excellent city parks. If the weather turns rainy, as it does in this part of the state often, several high-quality kids museums and science museums await.

Tallahassee, Florida:

Don’t overlook Tallahassee for family fun in a warm-weather environment. Family Travels on a Budget recommends this nature-studded city for its zip-lining, kayaking, and hiking. Wakulla Springs State Park offers river boat tours, and in the winter and early spring, it’s possible to spot manatees as they migrate up the river. Horseback riding and lighthouse tours are also on offer for families.

Bonus spring break pick:

The Burren, Ireland:

Ireland Family Vacations, the expert on all things families and Ireland, recommends this unique part of Ireland specifically during the spring. During this low-tourist season, families can spot baby animals in nature sanctuaries, go on cliff walks, and try kid-friendly foodie tours. Learn more at Ireland Family Vacations!

Want even MORE ideas? Here are an additional 18 spring break destinations!

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Guide to visiting Iceland in the winter with kids

February 16, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve been hearing the word ‘Iceland’ related to ‘family travel’ for a few years now. Families can have a great adventure in Iceland during the warm months (in fact, stay tuned for a guide to camping in Iceland with kids), but many people are still reluctant to try visiting Iceland in the winter with kids. It’s a great time to visit, and if you read on, I’m going to guide you through your worries and reservations so you can take advantage of visiting during this time of year.

Advantages to visiting Iceland in the winter with kids:

Fewer crowds
Cheaper
Better chance of seeing Northern Lights
Museums and sights are open year round
The hot spots/tubs/pools are a big hit in the colder weather!

Why take kids to Iceland?

Iceland is very kid-friendly with lots of museums, exhibits and sights that kids would enjoy.
If your kids enjoy swimming, they will love visiting the many, many hot spots Iceland has to offer.
Icelandic tradition is steeped in elves and trolls, making it a fun fantasy land for kids with active imaginations.
It’s a great introduction to international travel because everyone speaks English as well as Icelandic, they drive on the right hand side of the road, and the money is in Icelandic kroners but easy to figure out. Just international enough to make it exciting!

Our concerns about winter travel with kids in Iceland:

Shortened daylight hours—We visited in early January when the sunrise was at 11:30 and sunset was 3:30. But it actually gets light around 10:30 and doesn’t get dark until 4:30. Keeping the kids on east coast time, they went to bed late and slept in late, so it worked out fine. (See ”daily schedule” below.)
Weather—No matter what time of year you visit Iceland, you have to be conscious of changes in the weather and adapt your plans accordingly. The days were around 40 degrees with very little change at night. It snowed lightly some days, but nothing that made travel difficult. On a few occasions, the wind made being outside too cold. All in all, being used to cold winter weather, as long as the kids were dressed appropriately (and adults!), we were fine. (See “clothing” below.)

What to see and do along the Golden Circle:

We started out by staying in Laugarvatn, along the Golden Circle about two hours from the airport in Keflavik. We stayed at Efstidalur II, a working cattle ranch. This farm hotel is in an excellent location to explore all the sights of the Golden Circle. They serve breakfast and dinner (not included in $140 room rate for a double) and have a wonderful ice cream parlor downstairs.

From this hotel, we could easily access Geysir, home of the famous Geysir and Stokkur geysers. This is a short walk along a path. It is a bit touristy, but a must. There is a café, restaurant and gift shop. It’s also close to Gulfoss, home of Iceland’s most famous double waterfall, Golden Falls. This can be reached by walking along a path along the top of the ridge as well as down to the bottom of the falls. This location is not to be missed.

Pingvellir National Park is Iceland’s most important historical site where the Vikings established the first democratic parliament. It is also where the North American and Eurasian techtonic plates meet causing a huge fissure. There are many paths into the park from several parking areas. You can visit amazing waterfalls as well as walk along the giant fissure to a visitor center. Near Pingvellir is Fakasel Icelandic Horse Park. We did not go here, but it was recommended to us by locals. You can take a barn tour and see an evening show.

Hot springs to visit in the Golden Circle area:

Gamia Laugin (Secret Lagoon) in Fludir. This was wonderful. Bus tours visit here, so you need to come either before 3:30 or after 5:30. You can email them and request a time that is not during their tour hours to guarantee you get in. This pool is in beautiful rustic outdoor setting but with modern shower facilities and towel rentals. Kids loved floating around on the noodles provided and diving down for smooth stones along the bottom. Water was almost too hot for the kids for very long.

Fontano geothermal pool in Laugarvatn. This is a more modern facility with several man-made pools, hot tubs and shallow wading pools. It is also next to a lake you can go into (cold!) and then return to a hot pool. Kids loved this one too because they could play in the shallow water and not get so hot!

What we saw along the Ring Road south of Reykjavik:

Just beyond Selfoss, the Ring Road becomes very interesting with lots of green houses and Icelandic horses. After Hella there is flood zone that was covered in muddy lava fromt ohe 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajokull.

Seljalandsfoss waterfalls—this is a roadside pull out with paths (icy!) to several impressive waterfalls. There were restrooms but no food service. Lots of jagged cave entrances and rock outcroppings.
Skogafoss waterfall—another road side stop with a path to the top of a huge waterfall. There is a restaurant here.
Just beyond this in Skogar is the Skogar Folk Museum that we did not have time for, but sounded like it would be fun for kids.
We did not make it as far as Vik, but would have liked to have seen its beach.

Reykjavik and the Blue Lagoon:

There’s so much to do in this part of Iceland in winter! Start with the Blue Lagoon: since this is the most famous of all the geothermal pools in Iceland, we had to visit! You need to make and pay for reservations in advance on line. You sign up for a day and time. We almost missed our time, but it would have been okay if we were a little late. This is pricey and very touristy, but it is also pretty amazing. It’s a huge lake, basically, with swim up bars. It gets quite deep and kids have to wear water wings, no matter what their swimming ability, to go out into the deeper water. Our kids did NOT like this rule at all and I wish I had been able to prepare them for it. There is a snack bar but other than a really fancy restaurant, no regular café-type food.

There is a lot to see and do with kids in Reykjavik in the winter. If you are staying in the city center or old town, it is easy to walk everywhere. When booking your accommodations, make sure you are not on a busy street. The bars and pubs stay open all hours and are noisy at night Book a walking tour. We booked a walking tour with “Your Friend in Reykjavik”. Read about them on line or on TripAdvisor. It was just the six of us and our tour guide adapted the tour so the kids would have fun as well. On their recommendation, we booked it on a Saturday so we could visit the Saturday Flea Market. It was a two-hour tour through Old Town, the harbor, the city center, flea market and the town lake, Tjornin, where we fed ducks. This family run company was also very helpful before we even got to Iceland, with lots of insider recommendations and suggestions. Here are a few Reykjavik highlights:

Saga Museum—This is a wax museum where you where a set a headphones and are guided through the museum listening to Viking history. It is a bit graphic and our 6 year old wasn’t crazy about it, but it was fun for the rest of us. It has a kid play area where you can dress up. It is in the harbor area. The museum has a fancy restaurant, but there are several cafes long the harbor.

Settlement Exhibition—This museum is built around the excavation of an ancient Viking long house. It is underground and has lots of very cool computer generated effects. There is also a really nice kids area with dress up, games, coloring sheets and a Viking set up. Highly recommended.

Hallgrimskirkja church elevator—take the elevator up to the top of this iconic church to get some great views.

Open Air Museum (Arbaer)—this was only open during the week for 2:00 tours, and our weather didn’t really cooperate but it would be a great place to take kids if it were nice outside.

National Museum—we did not take the kids to this, but it has very well organized displays and there were lots of kids in the museum. It has a separate head set program for kids.

The Laundromat Café—this is a great family restaurant with a downstairs play area for kids. We ate here four different times! It’s just minutes from Old Reykjavik along the main shopping street of Laugavegur.

Laugardalslaug swim complex—We had to drive to this, but it was only about 10 minutes. This is a huge complex that has several full size pools and a lot of smaller hot tubs around it. The kids loved it because it had a twisty slide you could go down.

Up next, packing advice and practical tips for visiting Iceland in winter with kids! Click on the button below to continue.

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Belize adventure vacation: What to do with a week in San Ignacio Belize

January 4, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

If the first thing to comes to mind when you think of Belize is beaches and cays, it’s time to rethink this small country that’s big on outdoor adventure. For those who venture into the interior, especially the west side of Belize in the Cayo District, rivers, caves, Mayan ruins and culture abounds. Here’s how to spend a week or more in the Cayo District, based in the town of San Ignacio.

Belize adventure vacation: San Ignacio Belize

Why base yourself in San Ignacio? This small town of around 9,000 is within minutes of Mayan sites, and less than an hour’s drive from some of the best caving, tubing, hiking and canoeing in Belize. San Ignacio is friendly, easily explored on foot, and offers up what I believe to be the best boutique hotel in the region: San Ignacio Resort Hotel. (See our full review of the San Ignacio Resort Hotel here.)

You’ll want to rent a car or arrange for a hotel shuttle transfer from the international airport near Belize City to San Ignacio, which is about 80 miles to the west, near the Guatemalan border. Unless you plan to book guided tours daily, which frankly, is what we opted to do, you will definitely want your own car to explore the Cayo District. Here’s what not to miss:

Xunantunich and Cahal Pech Mayan ruins:

Both these archeological sites are rich in historical and cultural significance, and both are within easy distance of San Ignacio. In fact, you could walk to Cahal Pech from the San Ignacio Resort Hotel. Xunantunich is about a 25-minute drive and is the larger of the two sites. To get there, you’ll need to cross the Macal River via a small hand-propelled ferry system, which is free but requires passengers to exit the vehicle and stand on the moving ferry platform while crossing. The river is small and the process takes less than five minutes. From there, follow the road one mile to the parking area and ticket booth, then climb the hill to follow in the footsteps of the Mayan people who once lived here.

I highly recommend hiring a guide to tour Xunantunich and Cahal Pech, as we know we would not have understood half of what we looked at without Cruz, our trusty guide from San Ignacio Resort Hotel. From the main courtyard of the ruins, you can take in the ceremonial buildings of the priests and the living quarters of the royal Mayan families who once inhabited this region, and you can climb the steep steps to take in the views of the surrounding jungle. Cahal Pech is smaller, but allows for even more exploration of the interiors of the ruins; we wound our way along ancient corridors and through archways to one-time bed chambers. At both sites, be sure to note the ball courts where games were played, and peek into the small museum space at Cahal Pech.

Note: visitors to this region can also tour the famous Tikal ruins in Guatemala; it’s a short drive to the border for a border crossing, then about a two-hour drive. Your guide will hand over the reins of your day trip to a Guatemalan guide at the border.

Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve:

I had no idea that a pine forest existed in Belize, until we toured Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve. Located at about 3000 feet elevation, the reserve is located about an hour and a half from San Ignacio along pretty rugged (at times) dirt roads. Yes, it’s a long drive, but once inside the park, we found some of our favorite outdoor attractions in Belize. The change of scenery alone is stunning! While guided tours of this reserve are optimal, it’s definitely do-able to drive yourself as long as your vehicle can navigate the rough roads. You’ll want a good map of the area, and be advised that Google won’t help you once in the park.

The Rio Frio Cave is located about 11 miles down the main dirt road of the park, where a cavernous opening leads to what the Mayans once described as the Underworld. It forms a sort of tunnel here, with the Rio Frio pooling and winding through it. Nearby, the Rio On (there are lots of small rivers in this area) awaits, with a series of deep and shallow pools ready-made for adventurous kids (and their parents) to explore. Stop at the turnout for the River On Pools, where you can go to a picnic area and overlook to the left (where a series of steep stairs take you to the river and the lower pools) or to the right, where you can access a gentle trail to the upper pools. We chose to descend the stairs and climb and leap our way up the river, sampling pools as we went, but there is a small, rudimentary changing area and a sandy slope to the pools if you opt for the easier path. The River On Pools were our all-time favorite activity in Belize, and we could easily have spent all afternoon there. Perhaps because they’re difficult to get to, the pools are not crowded at all when we arrived right after lunch on a weekday in February.

Closer to the entrance of the park, you can also follow signage to 1000 Foot Falls, the impressive waterfall you’ve likely seen on postcards and posters of Belize. It’s a decent detour on another rough dirt road (it took us about 30 minutes to get there from the main dirt road), and features an overlook where you can snap photos of the falls and watch for hawks and raptors circulating along the steep, impressive ridgelines. While we were impressed by the view, we wished some trail networks existed here, because after the long drive, we were itching to get some exercise and spend more time along the ridge.

Note: there are a number of eco lodges in the park, but if you opt to stay in one, remember how remote they are! Once settled, you likely won’t be venturing throughout the Cayo District much until you depart.

St. Herman’s Cave & Blue Hole:

No, not that Blue Hole…the one everyone snorkels and scuba dives in is located on the ocean, whereas this Blue Hole is a delightful swimming hole deep in the jungle. Start by touring St. Herman’s cave, for which a guide is required. We loved this tour for several reasons: first, it’s unlike caves in the US with their guard rails, lights, and paved paths. St. Herman’s cave is navigated by climbing, hiking, and sometimes crawling through the limestone passageways. Secondly, the Mayan history is here is fabulous: you can spot shards of pottery and some large pieces of vases and dishes in the cave, as well as ancient remnants of ash and charcoal from campfires. The cave was once used for rituals and the space resonates with history.

It takes about 1.5 hours to navigate the cave, and by the time you emerge on the other side, you will be hot and sweaty (yes, this cave is warm!). This is when to go swimming at Blue Hole! There are also four distinct hiking trails through the jungle here, all part of the Blue Hole National Park, so if you didn’t come with a guide (and therefore can only peek into St. Herman’s cave) you can enjoy the trails at your leisure. There are also guided tubing tours through the cave, though personally, we thought it more fun and more peaceful to cave spelunk away from the splashing, noisy groups.

Note: ATM cave is one of the most popular in the region, and while we did not tour it, we were advised that St. Herman’s is more technical and more challenging to navigate. If you would prefer something a bit more relaxed while still beautiful and impressive, ATM may be the better option for you.

We spent four full days in San Ignacio and barely scratched the surface of all there is to do here. In addition to the tours described above, cultural tours of Mayan women’s co-ops (where traditional cooking can be learned) and San Ignacio (where the art of Mayan chocolate-making is demonstrated and sampled) should not be missed. The latter can be arranged on your own as you walk through town, but the former requires a guide. There are also Macal River canoe trips, additional caving options, and the Green Iguana Conservation Project, located at San Ignacio Resort Hotel. (See our review of the hotel for a full description of this on-site project.)

Guided tours can be booked downtown, but we highly recommend arranging your tours through the concierge at San Ignacio Resort Hotel, who will take the time to describe your options and make the experience seamless. Tours are kept to your own family group, so you get a personalized experience every time, and if you book multiple tours, they do their best to give you the same guide each day, so you establish a great report and friendship. You don’t need to be a guest of the resort to utilize their expertise, though I do recommend staying here!

Do you have a favorite Cayo District outdoor adventure? Share in the comments!

Iceland camper van road trip tips

July 7, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Iceland has become a popular family vacation destination for many reasons: it is every bit as breathtakingly beautiful as it looks in photographs, there’s essentially no language barrier, it’s extremely family-friendly, and the outdoor recreation and sightseeing is almost endless.

What Iceland is not: cheap. Standard hotels can cost families as much as $400 per night on top of expensive rental car fees (especially if you need a 4×4 car for rough roads). Dining in Iceland is very expensive as well; fast food meals at a basic grill during the time of our 2017 trip were about $15 U.S. per person, and standard sit-down restaurant meals were closer to $45-50 per person. The solution: take an Iceland camper van road trip and combine your lodging and car rental cost and eliminate your restaurant dining out cost. Ready for Iceland camper van road trip tips? Let’s get started!

Start with your camper van rental:

The first stage of planning your Iceland road trip is booking your camper van rental. We used Kuku Campers, one of the largest camper van rental companies in Iceland. Kuku Campers offers just about every size and type of camper van, ranging from small vans that sleep 2-3 people to the larger style we rented, which sleeps five (both are Class C, which don’t require any additional training or know-how to drive). You can also opt between 2×2 or 4×4.

Kuku 2×2 category C camper

We picked this 2×2 van for five people (click on the link to see detailed interior photos) which cost approximately $1800 for nine days ($200 per night). This cost was significantly less than we’d spend on hotels and a rental car. Kuku Campers offers this van in standard (stick shift) or automatic. We opted for standard, as it was cheaper, and I am comfortable driving a stick shift.

Note: Do you need a 4×4 vehicle? If you’re a regular reader of Pit Stops for Kids, you know we’re a pretty adventurous family. We rented a 2×2 van, and were able to access everything we wanted, and more. You need a 4×4 vehicle only if you plan to drive F roads (Iceland’s most rugged dirt roads), which is needed if you plan to backpack or hike deep in the interior.

The features and configuration of our camper van:

In the front were two bucket seats (the driver’s seat and the front passenger seat). Behind those seats was the kitchen area: a countertop/food prep surface with sink and faucet, storage area for a portable stove/cook top, electric refrigerator (which runs when the car is running), dishes and kitchen utensils and silverware, a large water storage container, and a pantry area for food. Behind the kitchen was the main compartment of the van, which had a padded bench seat in a U shape, surrounded by a roomy kitchen table. Above this was a sleeping bunk. At night, the table and bench seat easily folded down to become a second sleeping area. The bottom slept three, and the top slept two. During the day, passengers could sit on the bench seat with seatbelt while the van was on the road.

Lots of space: to the front of this photo would be the kitchen area.

In addition to the running water, which ran from a hose from the water container to the kitchen sink, the van had two overhead lights and a nighttime heater (which could be run when the van was turned off). There is no bathroom in the van, but this isn’t a problem (we’ll get to that soon). We found sufficient storage in the van for our bags under the bench seats and at the very back of the van, in addition to smaller storage areas above the front seats and above the kitchen. Lastly, there were useful hooks to hold jackets and rain pants, as well as curtains to pull around the windows at night. These hung on elastic cords, which we used to hang additional items like wet towels and swimsuits.

But was the van hard to drive?

At first, a little bit, yes. I don’t ever drive anything larger than a minivan at home, so for me, it took a day to get comfortable driving something taller and wider. Icelandic roads are narrower than US roads, so there is definitely a learning curve. I also needed time to get used to backing up the van (though it was far easier than trying to back up a van with a trailer). By Day 2, I was quite comfortable. Overall, driving the van was no big deal, even on dirt and gravel roads, though the van certainly got dirty!

Stopping to make a snack and take photos on a gravel road. There are plenty of turn-outs to use!

The van took diesel fuel, which seemed to be easily available at every gas station, and it cost me about $160 to fill the tank. We drove for eight days, I filled up twice and topped off once, and I spent a total of $360 on gas. At all campgrounds and parking lots for trails, scenic overlooks, and historic sites, there was ample room to park the van. The only place I had trouble navigating parking was in downtown Reykjavik, and even there, I managed (but it was stressful).

Next plan your trip! Here’s what to expect:

I’m going to say something now that I never say on this site: don’t over-plan. If you allow your itinerary to stay flexible, you’ll be able to advantage of all the many moments of spontaneity possible in Iceland. There are natural wonders and historic sites every few kilometers at times; you can’t do it all, but you can decide what to do in the moment. We planned a general route which included the south, west, and east. We purposely didn’t travel the entire Ring Road because with only eight full days on the road, we wanted to spend more time on side roads than Route 1.

Waterfall at the base of one of our campsites.

I absolutely loved having our Kuku Camper, because of the freedom it offered. Every day, we traveled WITH our lodging and dining, so we never had to worry about getting to an exact place to eat or sleep each night. In Iceland, especially in the rural areas (which is most areas), we found that restaurants and shops closed relatively early in the day, even in the peak of summer. We were hard pressed to find dining options open after 6 pm, so we loved the ability to picnic our meals anytime, anyplace. We got into a routine of making breakfast in our camper at the campground in the morning, making a picnic or packed lunch to enjoy out and about, and then stopping at one of Iceland’s many, many scenic overlooks to BBQ or cook our dinner on the road. We arrived at each campground at night well-fed and ready to make camp. While we were driving, if someone was hungry, they could simply make a sandwich on the road, and if we decided at the last minute to detour to see or do something, we never had to care about missing reservations.

Iceland outdoor picnic!

The most unnatural thing to me, as a natural planner, was the fact that you do not need to make campground reservations. If you’ve tried to camp in popular campgrounds in the US in summer, you know this simply isn’t true at home. But in Iceland, they really do mean it when they say their campgrounds do not fill up. They really don’t. Not anywhere. Not ever.

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Hassle-free guide to getting your US passport for kids

January 13, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Need a US passport for kids? Getting your child his or her first passport doesn’t have to be as intimidating as it sounds. Yes, you need to clear an afternoon or morning to the task, and yes, there’s a wait time involved, but the process is simpler than most people realize. Here’s what you need to know for getting a US passport for kids:

Where should I go to get the passport?

In most cases, you’ll need to go to your local post office. I know, I know, but at least it’s better than the DMV, right? To find an office or agency issuing passports in your area, simply plug in your zip code into this site, and get a list of locations. Many people hope it’s possible to apply for a first passport online or by mail: this is not the case. You’ll need to physically apply in person. And your kids will need to be there too! Call and ask if the office closest to you accepts appointments. If not, prepare to wait in line. Note: most passport offices run on government business hours and close early (ours takes its last passport appointment at 3:45 pm), and are closed on weekends. In order to get the whole family there to apply, you may need to take kids out of school for an hour or so. Annoying? Yes. Necessary? Often.

When should I apply?

Apply at least 12 weeks before international travel. When we applied for our kids’ first passports, they came in the mail well before this time period (more like four weeks), but trust me, you don’t want to sweat it right before your departure. Nor do you want to pay for an expedited process if you don’t have to. Plus, applying early gives you wiggle room should something go wrong: it’s fairly common that photos need to be retaken or addresses get entered incorrectly. This way, you have time to re-do the process.

What passport type does my child need, and how much will it cost?

If you’ll be traveling internationally by air, your child needs a Passport book (the standard passport you’re probably picturing in your mind). If you’ll be traveling by cruise ship, you’ll need to check with your cruise line, as various countries have different requirements, but may be able to travel only with a Passport Card. If you’re traveling by car to Canada, parents will need passport books, but kids can enter the country with valid original birth certificates (as of the time of this posting). However, it’s a much faster process at the border if kids have passport books that can be scanned like their parents’. Note: if only one parent is bringing kids into Canada from the US, any parent with joint custody must submit a signed letter of consent. Notarize it and bring it with you!

Passport books for kids (0-16 years) are $80 and must be renewed every five years. Passport cards are only $15. Start here to determine eligibility and passport type.

What documents will I need?

When you’re applying for passort, you must go to the passport agency or passport office with your child or children (the passport applicants) and bring his or her original birth certificate, plus a photo ID for you. You’ll need to give parental consent for the passport, fill out all forms (if you haven’t filled them out at home), and pay all fees. You can download the application right here to save time.

Where should I purchase passport photos?

To apply for a passport, passport photos can almost always be taken (and paid for) at the passport office where you apply, but can sometimes be cheaper elsewhere. For convenience, we took our children’s passport photos at the post office when we applied, but if you decide to go elsewhere, make sure the photo is 2″ by 2″, and has the proper background. I’d only trust this task to a photo or portrait business who specializes in passport photos.

Not so hard, right? You’ll be given a receipt onsite, then can expect your passports to arrive in the mail within 12 weeks. Now, you just need tips for going through customs with kids!

Italy with kids: Cinque Terre itinerary for families

January 9, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

On a trip to Italy with kids, you’re likely to devote a good deal of time to art and history in Florence and archeological ruins in Rome. Afterward, escape the intensity of the city with this three-day Cinque Terre itinerary for families.

Day One: Florence to Cinque Terre

We took a morning train from Florence to Lucca and spent several hours walking around this lovely walled city. It’s definitely worth the side trip. There is a baggage check place right across from the station where we left our bags. From there you can just walk into the town or rent a bike from the same place.

Then we took a train from Lucca to La Spezia (you can get one ticket that is Florence to La Spezia and just get off and on again) where you change trains for the towns of Cinque Terre. Be sure to get off at La Spezia Centrale station, not La Spezia Milgliarina.

In La Spezia, make sure you take a local train that stops in Riomaggiore (Genoa-La Spezia line). Check the train schedules because they don’t all stop at the little Cinque Terre towns.

We stayed 2 nights at Affittacamere Le Giare which I found through Trip Advisor and booked through Booking.com. Being off-season many places were closed. But this was a wonderful little apartment where our host was waiting for us and made dinner recommendations. We had time for a walk around the town using Rick Steves’ guide.

Note: you can also go from Milan to Cinque Terre.

Day Two: Village to village hiking

We awoke to rain but it cleared up by 9:00 and we found a café in town for breakfast. All the Cinque Terre villages cater to American tourists who come in droves in the summer so there are many cafes trying to serve American or English breakfasts.

You can go from village to village three different ways: by train, hike or by boat. Boats only run in season (and we visited in winter) and most of the train trip is through tunnels, obscuring views between village stops, so we opted to hike. The entire hike is approximately eight miles one-way, which is do-able with older kids and teens, when broken up into a leisurely day.

The first two sections of the hiking trail were closed: Riomaggiore to Manarola is only a 20-minute walk and has been closed for years; the second section, Manarola to Corniglia takes a little longer but is less scenic.

We took the train from Riomaggiore to Corniglia and started our hike from there. Finding the correct trail out of Corniglia toward Vernazza proved to be a bit of a challenge but after climbing a long set of switchback steps up to the town center, we found the red and white stripes on the stonewalls that serve as trail markers.

Tip: It’s a beautiful hike up out of Corniglia and you are able to look back at the village perched on the cliffs. Stunning!

The hike from Corniglia to Vernazza takes about an hour and a half but it is rocky, with some stone steps and somewhat hilly. You hike through vineyards and ravines. No one was on the trail when we were there, which made it pretty magical. In summer the crowds must really take away from the remote beauty, which is why we enjoyed an off-season visit. In another hour we came to Vernazza where we stopped for a delicious pizza lunch at a busy café right by the harbor.

Finding the continuing trail from Vernazza to Monterosso was easy. But the hike to Monterosso was the most difficult of all. It took us about an hour and a half with lots of ups and downs and muddy areas. But most of it is along cliffs with amazing views.

Monterosso is more of a resort town than the others. It is built on flat land and divided into two parts—the old and new. There are long stretches of beach and umbrella rentals, etc. It is also the only Cinque Terre village that is on a main train route. It was our least favorite.

To return to Riomaggiore, we took the train (they come about every hour, more often in summer) and rode it straight through from Monterosso to Riomaggiore. We were back in time to shower and rest up before a nice dinner by the harbor.

Day Three: Manarola back to Rome

We were headed back to Rome today for our morning flight out the next day, but before we left Riomaggiore we took the train to the second village that we could not hike to due to trail closures, Manarola. What a perfect morning outing! We found a little café for some pastries, but not much else was open. It was very quiet. Rick Steves’ walking guide took us up through the town and into the vineyards and graveyards with stone terraces.

We took the train back to Riomaggiore, got our bags and then took another train to La Spezia where we changed trains to get back to the Rome Termini.

In summary:

Visit Lucca coming or going to Cinque Terre
Walk as much of the trail as you can and what you can’t, go back to by train and visit the villages that way.
Don’t think you’ll have views on the train because you don’t.
Pick one village as a base because they are all so close together.
Go off-season. We were told April was the best.

How we planned our European trip on a budget

January 6, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

This winter, the Pit Stops for Kids crew will be heading to France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Italy. Our entire trip has been planned with budget in mind, by necessity! If your family, like ours, wants to plan a European trip on a budget, we have tips below!

We will travel in an off-season.

Yes, Paris in springtime is lovely, and Scandinavia in the summer is just about perfect. But airfare and lodging prices soar during peak time periods. Everyone knows that when on a budget, one of the easiest ways to save money is to travel in the off-season, but with kids in school and sports, we know this is easier said than done. Think outside the box: I was surprised to learn that if booked far enough in advance, the Christmas holiday season was very affordable, with cheaper airfare than in spring. We were able to book a trip that didn’t force the kids to miss any school days but still fell into a budget season period.

If you do book a winter holiday trip, go with the flow of the Christmas and New Years’ holidays, taking advantage of special events and offerings. Instead of lamenting that you won’t be able to have the exact same trip you’d have in June or July, look for festivals, religious ceremonies, and celebrations that are unique to this festive season. For instance, I was bummed we wouldn’t be hiking in the Dutch countryside during our December trip, until I realized we’d be able to experience Belgium’s famous Christmas markets.

We finalized our travel dates around the best airfare.

Instead of deciding on our exact travel dates, then finding airfare to work around them, we kept our departure dates loose and finalized them around the most affordable airfare. This allowed us to use calendar tools on airline websites to find the cheapest fare within a 3-4 day window, each way. For example, for the Alitalia flight we booked from San Francisco to Paris, the price was $200 less if we flew on a Thursday rather than a Friday. On our return, flying on New Year’s Day is significantly less than flying the day after. Read how to find the lowest airfare for any trip.

We booked apartments instead of hotel rooms.

Hotel rooms are hard to come by economically for a family of five in major European cities. Instead of trying to cram into a room or booking two rooms per night for our family, we are using HomeAway and AirBnB vacation rentals. We enjoy booking directly from locals, because they can often give us extra tips and hints for our city travels, recommend restaurants, and give us directions to grocery stores. We’ve never had any problems booking through the above sites. Here’s an example of our savings:

Paris mid-range hotel room that sleeps 3: $200/night ($2,000 total for two rooms for five nights)
Paris apartment rental that sleeps 5: $100/night ($550 total for five nights including taxes and fees)

We priced lodging, transportation, and tours a la carte.

It can be easier to book lodging and tours in one package from a number of tour operators, but we dislike large group tours and don’t want to stay in hotels that cater to large groups. Instead, we booked individual tours in both Rome and Paris. (We’ll be touring with Fat Tire Tours and Overome.) While this seems like an extravagance, it’s actually less costly because we’ve gotten our lodging for a good price, and we’ll have the benefit of touring in a much smaller group.

We opted for longer stays per location.

Instead of giving into the temptation of changing location every few days, which would bump our transportation and lodging costs considerably, we have opted to stay overnight in only three locations over 15 days. This gives us time to fully explore each area, and keeps our lodging costs as low as possible (five nights in an apartment rental is far cheaper than five separate nights in five different accommodations). We can also forgo Eurail type ticket packages in favor of one-time fares because we won’t be taking trains very often.

We price compared trains vs planes.

Once our transatlantic flight plans were set, we needed to figure out how we’d travel from city to city within Europe. Don’t assume train travel will be cheaper than airfare. For our travel from Paris to nearby Belgium, the train was our best option, but leaving Brussels, it was far cheaper to grab a flight on an economy airline to Rome than to take the train to nearby London, for instance. We are using EasyJet and RyanAir for our internal flights. These airlines are bare bones, but for short flights, we’re willing to make this sacrifice.

We’re not renting a car.

Car rental in Europe can get expensive, as it can anywhere. We will be buying prepaid metro tickets for each major city we’re visiting, and will be relying on bus and train schedules everywhere we go. Would driving a car be more efficient? Sure, but we’re happy to see the sights in a more leisurely manner via public transit for the tradeoff of not having to navigate roads. Be sure to budget for public transit, and note that if you have anything larger than a family of four, taxi cabs will not likely be economical. Note: the only exception to our public transit rule will upon our arrival in Paris. After a long transatlantic journey, we know we’ll be tired. I opted for a private town car to pick us up at the airport and deliver us to our apartment. This ‘luxury’ costs less than getting two taxi cabs. (We’re using Blacklane.)

We’re eating street food and shopping in grocery stores.

For us, having our own kitchen in each of our apartment rentals just makes more sense than eating every meal out. While we will certainly eat some meals in restaurants, we plan to enjoy the multicultural experience of shopping in local grocery stores and making our own meals. When we booked our apartments, we looked for rentals with grocery stores within walking distance. For lunches, when we’ll be out in cities exploring, we plan to buy foods at delis and stores for picnics and try street foods in cities.

Give your Kids Adventure on a Riviera Maya Vacation

December 20, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

There are amazing places to go to for a family beach vacation, but few can match the Riviera Maya. Situated on the coast of Mexico, Riviera Maya offers you and other adults a chance to relax and unwind, and children an opportunity to explore, learn, play, and simply be kids.

Riviera Maya offers a range of excellent family accommodation options, especially in Tulum. The Tulum all-inclusive options, in particular, are great, especially because they offer so many options for having fun with kids.

The resorts organize a lot of tours and activities, so you can enjoy the area while you discover the Riviera Maya culture, the marvelous natural paradise of Tulum or have fun practicing sports! There are so many options for what to do in Tulum that you will never get bored!

Now that you’ve decided that you are going to Tulum in the Riviera Maya, what exactly is there to do?

Water Sports

Thanks to its coastal location, many of the better resorts have their own exclusive pools and beach. This gives you the perfect opportunity to participate in snorkeling, or stand up paddling or kayaking.

Exploring Mayan Ruins

Tulum is home to some of the most breathtaking Mayan ruins on the planet. This is a great way for children to learn about the Mayan civilization and be awestruck at what they see. Kids learn when they are having fun. Here are two you and your family should not miss:

Chichén Itzá– Chichén Itzá is one of the seven wonders of the world and was once a vibrant Mayan city. In the center, a huge pyramid dominates the region, and at certain times of the year, the sun creates an illusion that snakes are running up and down the steps.
Cobá– Forty-five minutes into the jungle and you will discover the remains of Cobá, a once-thriving Mayan city. The pyramid in the center is the main attraction with excavated roads linking the structure to other parts of the city. The visitor center helps to add context and is an excellent way for kids and adults to learn about the Mayans.

A Day or Days at the Beach

With the better resorts having their own exclusive beach, it makes sense to have a day or three relaxing and having fun. Kids love beaches as they can dig in the sand, go for a swim, and generally let off steam. You can have quality time with your kids and enjoy the sunshine soaking up rays and reconnecting with the world.

If you want to venture out of your resort, you’ll find Tulum beaches to suit all tastes. Given how great many resort beaches are, you’ll probably find you’ll make use to the one you can walk too.

A Grand Night Out

Resorts offer plenty of options for what to do if you want have fun, especially in the desirable location of the Riviera Maya. You can enjoy great food, karaoke, theme nights, and all kinds of entertainment.

If you are more sporty, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to participate in tennis, soccer, basketball, or enjoy a relaxing spa or workout in the gym.

The Riviera Maya offers you and your family the perfect vacation and staying in one of the great resorts makes it even better.

Germany with kids: Five Bavarian cities not to miss

December 9, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

If the Germany of your imagination is storybook towns, medieval villages, vineyards and church steeples, you need to include the region of Bavaria (and its subsection of Franconia) in your European trip plans.

Germany with kids: 5 Bavarian cities not to miss!

After touring Germany with Vantagetravel.com, I compiled a collection of not-to-miss destinations throughout Bavaria that will satisfy kids’ need for fun and exploration and parents’ desire for history; good food, wine and beer; and shopping. Here’s where to go:

Heidelberg:

This university city is bustling with students and industry, but a compact yet vibrant old town (Altstadt) can be found at its center. This oldest part of the city is filled with historic buildings, market squares, and views of the Schloss Heidelberg (Heidelberg Castle).

In the center of the marketplace is the Heiliggeistkirche, or Church of the Holy Ghost. Nearby, the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge) spans the Neckar River, joining the two sides of historic Heidelberg. A visit to the Heidelberg Castle is a must, and getting there is half the fun: a funicular delivers travelers to the castle walls (ticket sales for both the castle and the ride up are at the base).

If there’s time, families can also see the Philosopher’s Walk, named by poets in the age of Romanticism in literature in the early 1800s. Also be on the lookout in the shop windows for the Studentenkuss, or Student’s Kiss, a popular chocolate candy.

Würzburg:

Located on the Main River in the heart of the Franconian wine region, Würzburg wows with the Würzburg Residence, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and palace of a prince bishop. Comparable to Europe’s other great Baroque palaces, the residence was constructed in 1720 and tours are available indoors and outside (don’t miss the gardens).

After touring the residence, head to the Marienkapelle, the chapel that is the gateway to the city’s pedestrian-friendly downtown. On Saturdays, a farmer’s market offers food stands and samples, and year-round, shopping is abundant.

Parents won’t want to miss the Alte Mainbrücke, or pedestrian bridge across the Main. Look for the walk-up wine bars, where you can grab a glass of Franconian wine to take to-go. (You’ll be given a token with your glass of wine, which you can use to get a refund on the cost of your wine glass if you opt not to keep it.)

Above the bridge, a pedestrian walkway winds up the hill through vineyards to the fortress of the bishop, which affords fantastic views of the city, plus ice cream and refreshments in the summer months.

Bamberg:

The fairytale charm of Bamberg is hard not to fall for, as its entire town center is a UNESCO site. The Bamberger Dom is the central cathedral, open to the public, near the Neue Residenz, or palace of this town’s prince bishop.

Families can stroll through town enjoying the quaint shops and arched bridges leading through clocktowers (yes, it looks like a Disney set), but you definitely must stop for a smoked beer at Schlenkerla Smoked Beer Brewery, dating back to 1405. The hops are smoked over a beechwood fire, and the beer is still tapped directly from wooden barrels. Pub food is available too, if you can get a table.

Regensburg:

The charm of Regensburg, which lies on the Danube, is in its abundant shopping amid medieval streets. St. Peter’s Cathedral dominates, but is sometimes outshone by the Old Stone Bridge crossing over the Danube. Visit the town hall, which once served as the seat of parliament with an original torture chamber during the middle ages.

It’s easy to lose track of time window shopping or dipping in and out of small stores while exploring the narrow streets and alleyways of Historic Old Town, but you’ll need sustenance. The Sausage Kitchen by the old stone bridge boasts the best sausages in town, but we recommend the German tapas at Gravenreuther.

Nürnberg:

While Nürnberg has its own medieval castle and a charming old town with centuries-old city walls, it’s best known for it’s WWII history. This is the place to teach kids more about the Nazi Party and the damage it inflicted worldwide, starting at the Documentation Center and Nazi Party Rallying Grounds, which can be viewed with ticketed entry. There’s a great museum on-site, and while all exhibits are displayed in German, audio guides are available. The subject matter can be difficult at times for sensitive or young children, and I encourage parents to prep kids ahead of time for images and content involving the Holocaust.

You can also see Courtroom 600, where the Nuremberg Trials took place after the war. It’s located in the Palace of Justice in a neighboring city (only about 15 minutes away from the Documentation Center), because Nürnberg was so severely bombed during the war.

When you’re ready for some brevity, head to old town Nürnberg, where you can visit the Toy Museum and Lebkuchen Schmidt, one of the cities best bakeries selling their specialty, gingerbread (in season). And be sure to try a late lunch at Wirtshaus Hütt’n, just off the main square, for an authentic Bavarian meal!

Have you been to Bavaria? What cities are your favorite and why?