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Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort: what not to miss with kids

December 12, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Twenty minutes before lifts stopped turning on a perfect Whistler ski trip, we were still finding fresh powder. Whistler Blackcomb is just that big. Everywhere we skied at Whistler Blackcomb, the kids discovered new routes, new glades, and new jumps. After spending two full ski days exploring the duel mountains, we could only say we’d had a ‘sampler’ of what this resort offers to families.

Whether you have an ideal 3-4 ski days at Whistler Blackcomb, or just a short few like we did, Pit Stops for Kids is happy to share our top sections of the mountain for families, including runs, lifts, lodges, and dining.

Where to ski or snowboard on a Whistler ski trip:

The best thing about Whistler Blackcomb’s mountain layout is the fact that no matter where you are on either of the mountains, from peak to base, beginner (green), intermediate (blue), and advanced (black) runs are available. This means families can ride the lifts together even if they’re of different ability levels, and even young kids and novice skiers and riders can experience the whole resort. Our favorite sections of the two peaks for kids (of any level):

1. Jersey Cream area of Blackcomb: This area is accessed by the Solar Express lift (from Wizard Express at the base), and provides expert to beginner runs situated high enough on the mountain to be challenging but just below the tree-line (to keep out of the wind). We spent the majority of our time here, alternating between the double-black-diamond Jersey Cream Bowl and its many side runs (most of which are intermediate). The Green Line (beginner) offers a fun alternative to those not so sure about moguls and steeps. For those wanting to go higher up, the Glacier Express loads adjacent to Jersey Cream.

2. Whistler Family Zone: Located on Whistler Peak directly across from Blackcomb after off-loading from the Peak 2 Peak Gondola (or off the Whistler Village Gondola), this Family Zone is a relaxing place to try out new skills without fear of fast skiers or riders nearby. Marked by bright green flags, the Family Zone offers groomed slopes and is placed next to one of Whistler Blackcomb’s many Nintendo Terrain Parks. It’s easy for kids to dip in and out of the terrain park (every feature is clearly marked as S (small), M (medium) or L (large) and still meet up with non-jumping family members. If your kids like easy glided skiing or riding, look for the large wooden arch marking the entrance to a not-so-steep tree glade filled with powder and trails (when snow levels permit).

3. Blackcomb lower mountain: Younger kids will like the numerous intermediate runs off the Wizard Express (and parents will like that the Blackcomb lower mountain gets less traffic than the Whistler lower mountain). When they’re ready, take intermediate and beginner kids up Solar Express for new terrain, including another Nintendo Terrain Park. (Look for the magic ‘castle’ play area nearby…though we had trouble finding it in deep snow, even with signage!)

Tip: If you’re new to the mountain, a great way to orient yourself is to ride to the top of Blackcomb and take the Green Line (beginner) all the way down. This cat-track trail, marked ‘Easiest Way Down’, traverses the entirety of Blackcomb while winding slowly down. Parents can get a feel for the mountain while kids get their ‘feet wet’. Plus, we clocked it: it’s a 30 minute run!

Where to eat and rest:

Whistler Blackcomb is very big, which means that traversing to your favorite pit stop could take a while, depending upon where you are on the mountain. Families will waste time getting from Point A to Point B if they’re not careful. The good news is, there are dining options on both mountains, of course. Our best advice: no matter where you eat, try to avoid the two largest lodges, Roundhouse and Rendezvous, during peak lunch hours (12-1pm).

1. Glacier Lodge: Located at the base of Jersey Cream and Glacier lifts, this smaller lodge is just enough off the beaten path to be an ideal lunch spot for families. (Also recommended is Crystal Lodge, but it’s so far off the main lifts it may take too much time to get to.)

2. Rendezvous Lodge: As long as you avoid the peak lunch hour, Rendezvous is a good bet (and easy to get to from either Whistler–take the Peak 2 Peak–or Blackcomb). Even during the busy holiday season, we didn’t have trouble finding a table or getting through the cafeteria-style dining area. Tip: even adults can order kid meals, which are a great value at $8.99 and include an entree, two snacks (all healthy options), a piece of fruit, and a drink. If the kids finish eating before you do, let them go downstairs to the Nintendo gaming area, where they can play the latest Wii and Nintendo DS 3D games for free!

3. Try to avoid Whistler Village at lunch, as this congested area will delay your return to the slopes. The exception: if you’re staying at a ski-in-ski-out hotel. During our stay at the Fairmont Chateau, we were able to ski down to the hotel, eat a healthy meal in our room, and be back on the hill within 45 minutes. It was worth returning to the base to skip the lunchtime crowds (and hassle).

Riding the Peak 2 Peak:

At some point, you’ll want to cross between Whistler Peak and Blackcomb Peak, and while you can return to the Whistler Village and ride the Excalibur Gondola to the Blackcomb side, you’ll have far more fun riding the Peak 2 Peak. Located between the Rendezvous and Roundhouse lodges, the Peak 2 Peak takes about 20 minutes to ride. This is a great time to adjust clothing and gloves, eat a snack, or simply warm up! The views are jaw-dropping (as is the height!). Your lift ticket includes the Peak 2 Peak, so take advantage of it!

Don’t be surprised if you experience less than 30 percent of Whistler Blackcomb in one day, and don’t be afraid to ride lifts all the way to the peaks (when open). There will be an easy way down option every time!

As I disclose whenever applicable, my family and I experienced Whistler Blackcomb as guests of the resort. While we appreciated this opportunity to share tips and advice with other traveling families, it not come with the expectation of a positive review.

Florence Italy at Christmas

December 7, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Last holiday season, we made a last minute decision to add Florence, Italy to our European family vacation. We arrived in Florence on December 24, Christmas Eve, and left December 27. While planning, I worried that perhaps, spending Christmas in Florence wouldn’t feel festive…after all, their seasonal Christmas markets close before Christmas Day. However, I couldn’t have been more wrong. Florence Italy at Christmas is beautiful! Scroll down for a few tips and plenty of images.

Florence Italy at Christmas:

We came to Florence from Paris, where the Christmas markets were still in full swing. However, Florence definitely beats out the City of Lights in holidays light displays. Every narrow street of historic Florence featured strings of lights. Each street was different.

Florence also has many more Christmas trees than Paris. We found this to be true throughout Italy as opposed to France. Italy, and Florence in particular, also has wonderful nativity scenes.
While in Florence for Christmas, look for impromptu Christmas carnivals in various piazzas, including cheap carnival games, street performers, carrousels, and outdoor ice skating rinks.

On Christmas Day, expect for museums to be closed. Take walking tours instead, or go to a church service.
Try to make reservations for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals ahead of time. Some restaurants will close. For those that remain open, expect them to be busy for Christmas lunch and closed for the evening. Some restaurants will have set menus. Stock up on a few basics at the grocery store so you can make a simple Christmas evening meal in your apartment rental, if that’s an option for you.

Look for elaborate Nativity scenes in Florence, both outside the Duomo and in area churches. It’s ok to step inside churches to see their nativity scenes, provided you don’t go during service hours.
Step inside artisan meat and cheese shops and you’ll most likely find generous tasting offerings. We tasted so much cheese, it was a snack!

Buy a panettone at a grocery store. This traditional Italian holiday bread is similar to a coffee cake, and we picked one up for under €5. We liked it so much, we bought another in Rome!
If you want to ice skate at the outdoor rinks, the ice is free, but skate rentals are around €5 per person. For this price, you usually get about 30 minutes. This was enough time for us. The rink we found was open Christmas Day.

Have you been to Florence at Christmas? What was your favorite sight to see?

Guide to Paris Christmas markets

November 30, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

One of our favorite memories of a Paris Christmas was touring the many Paris Christmas markets across the city. Some Christmas markets pop up fairly spontaneously from year to year, but there are a few staples you’ll find to be consistent. Here’s where to go to find Paris Christmas markets, plus tips for best enjoyment of these seasonal wonders.

Top Paris Christmas markets:

The biggies each year are as follows (plus how to get there):

The Concorde area: this largest Christmas market is located at the Concorde, right in the shadow of the seasonal ferris wheel (built for the World’s Fair). It’s at the end of the famous Champs- Élysées, so if you’re already walking down this to see the holiday lights and decor, you’ll end up here.
Under the Eiffel Tower: this was our favorite Christmas market, as it wasn’t too big and wasn’t too small. And the ambiance is amazing under the tower, especially when it sparkles on the hour at night. We visited this market before and after going to the top of the tower.
In the Montmartre area: this market is a bit more ‘working class’, with some touristy stuff tossed in, located under the shadow of Sacre Coeur. Take the metro to the Chateau Rogue stop, or tack this visit on to a tour of Sacre Coeur. You can take the tram up the hill, too.

Tips for making the most of the Paris Christmas markets:

Plan on making a meal of it: We purposely planned our mealtimes around Christmas markets. This is a cheap and delicious way to eat in Paris during the holiday season. At every Christmas market, we could find the staples: crepes, Belgian waffles, baguettes toasted with melted cheese, mulled wine, hot chocolate, and all sorts of candies and nuts.
Look for smaller markets: We found a fun yet small Christmas market across the Seine from Notre Dame, by the Latin Quarter. It was only a dozen or so huts, but Santa Claus was there without a line, and the vendors were among the most friendly.

Bring cash: at most huts, you’ll need to pay in cash. Give kids coins to spend on their own.
Shop for Christmasy souvenirs: During our Christmas visit, we decided to play a game of ‘secret Santa’ within our family. Each family member bought little trinkets and treats at Christmas markets for another member of the family. We had a lot of fun.

Look for ice skating rinks: Many Christmas markets include small ice skating rinks. Below the Eiffel Tower, the rink was actually a loop, similar to a track, which skaters used as though on a trail. If you combine an Eiffel Tower Christmas market trip with a ride up the tower, stop and skate at the 1st floor landing ON the tower. It’s free!
Try the vin chaud: This mulled wine may not be made with the highest quality wine, but it’s piping hot and seasoned nicely. For kids, the chocolat chaud is the way to go.
Look for public restrooms: Restrooms are in short supply in Paris, but we always found one at major Christmas markets.
Almost all Paris Christmas markets open the third week of November and close January 1. Hours are generally noon to 10 pm.

What is your favorite Paris Christmas market?

How to visit the Paris catacombs with kids

October 24, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

One attraction near the top of my teen’s list of things to do in Paris was the Paris Catacombs. This underground network lies in the heart of the city, spanning two km. It’s creepy and fascinating and toured completely on one’s own, unless you opt for a guide. We recommend it, as the actual visit only takes about 45 minutes and can easily be added to a Paris itinerary with teens or older kids, but there are many things to know ahead of time to make your day run smoothly. Here’s how to visit the Paris catacombs with kids:

You can start on the catacombs’ official website, which will tell you the essential details, but it won’t tell you the number one bit of information you need: to tour, you’ll be given a timed ticket, which involves two different lines and waiting times unless you either 1. buy online, or 2. get there right at opening.

We did not buy ahead of time OR get there early, and this was the process:

Start in a queue to get your timed ticket. You don’t pay at this time. It will be confusing to figure out where this line is or where it starts, as the entrance to the catacombs looks like a boarding line for an airplane…lots of people merging and clustering without a clear queue. Ask any of the officials for the timed ticket line until you find it.
When you get to the front of this line (on our visit, this took about 30 minutes), you’ll be given a slip of paper saying what time to come back. We were there on a pretty busy day and our timed ticket was for 3 hours later. Note: if you arrive in the later part of the afternoon, you’ll probably be told to come back the next day.
When you come back at your timed ticket hour, you will need to show the slip to the official at the front of the entrance and he or she will direct you vaguely in the direction of a vague line. They let in about 50 people at a time (for a total of 200 or so in the catacomb network at once), so you’ll basically be grouping with all the other people who have the same time as you. The wait isn’t long; maybe another 15-20 minutes.

Note: don’t try to come AFTER your time indicated. We were 30 minutes late, and it took some persistence to be allowed in.

Once inside, you’ll pay at the counter and descend the staircase to the underground level. Once there, you’re on your own to walk the (quite long) distance through an underground tunnel to where to opens out into a wider space. Here, you’ll see some signage talking about the history of the catacombs, then the catacombs themselves.

What to expect in the catacombs:

Once you’re in the catacombs themselves, there’s no signage or explanations of anything, apart from a few very generalized dates. Stacked bones line the walkways, primarily made up of femurs, tibias, and skulls. Some are in interesting patterns and geometric shapes, but most are just lining the walkway like a wall. Certainly, it’s an interesting sight, especially for kids and teens but they are human remains, which gives them a decidedly creepy tone. Parents will need to use judgement as to whether their kids are ready for this.

I wished there was more explanation of the remains, but the point made is that these are unknown people, moved here as needed to make room elsewhere. Most of the remains are from the era of plagues when mass graves were necessary. At least, that’s as much as we could put together with little information. If this is a site and subject that interests you greatly, I advise booking a private tour. I know Viator.com has one.

When you arrive at the catacombs, whether you have timed tickets from booking online or need to stand in the queue for timed tickets, expect a certain level of chaos. The official website does not explain the ticketing process well (or at all, really), so many visitors are confused and frustrated. Of course, this would be simple to fix, but when we heard a visitor suggest information be placed on the website, the ticket operator simply chuckled. I guess it will never happen.

A few more logistics:

The stairs both going down and coming up from the catacombs are steep and long. There is no alternative, such as an elevator. Needless to say, this site is not handicap-friendly.
The temperature is 14 degrees C, so wear a light sweater or coat.
There is no bathroom or anywhere to store a backpack.

Visitor numbers are restricted to 200 at any time. Admission may be delayed for a short time during busy periods.

Cost and hours:

Open daily from 10am to 8pm, except Mondays and some public holidays. Last admission: 7pm. To buy tickets online, try this website. Adults are €12, kids under 18 are free.

Directions:

The catacombs are located at 1, avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy – 75014 Paris. You’ll want to take Metro line 4 to the Cité stop.

Guide to Machu Picchu and Sacred Valley Peru

October 17, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

We traveled through Peru with Vantage Adventures, which I highly recommend. However, this guide is designed to be useful to you whether you’re traveling with Vantage, another tour company, or on your own.

The Sacred Valley of Peru is a stunning region of high mountain plains dotted with quinoa, wheat, and Incan corn, impossibly high peaks covered in glaciers, and valleys nestled with medium to small-sized towns. This is the gateway to Machu Picchu, a lower valley of almost tropical rainforest and glacier-carved mountains. This is truly the land of ‘Pachamama’…the Peruvian term for ‘mother earth’.

Guide to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley:

Machu Picchu is undoubtedly the best known Incan site, but the Sacred Valley is filled with them. You’ll want to spend at least three days in this region: two at Machu Picchu and at least one full day and night in the Sacred Valley. Here’s how to go about it:

From Cusco, drive the 1.5-2 hours into the Sacred Valley, and tour the historic ruins at Ollantaytambo (Ollanta for short). This is where you’ll catch your train to Machu Picchu, by the way. But for now, these ruins are a great second to the Saqsayhuaman ruins you probably already saw in Cusco. Built on the mountainside, the Ollanta ruins have three main parts: a hillside granary area that can be explored by sturdy hikers, a sun temple area that can be accessed by about 200 stone steps (definitely worth it), and an Incan town at the base. In the town area, you can see the Inca village’s temple to water (with spring water flowing through it to this day), their irrigation/water system cut into the stone, their family dwellings, and their marketplace. Above, you can see their sun temple and terraces, where they grew crops in the mountainside.

Allow at least three hours to tour it all (and longer if you want to hike to the granary), plus some time in the modern village, which is filled with street hawkers, tourist shops, and the like. This is a busy, lively place, and worth exploring for a bit. You can also visit the salt flats nearby, and other ruins such as Moray, accessible by the Boleto Touristico del Cusco, which has multiple site entry available for one entry fee of 130 soles.

Stay in the Ollanta area; I recommend the luxury oasis of Casa Andina Sacred Valley, if only for the lovely grounds with gardens, hammocks, and a kids’ playground. You’ll want somewhere to unwind after all the bustle of the cities.

Note: If you tour Peru with Vantage Adventures as I did, you’ll send even more time in the Sacred Valley, going places solo tourists cannot, such as a weaving co-op and local school. This type of access is one reason I do recommend Vantage.

On your second day in the Sacred Valley, take the Inca Train from Ollanta to the town of Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). The ride takes about 1.5 hours, and if you book the Vista Dome train, you’ll get stunning views the whole way. The train experience is very upscale in Vista Dome: you’ll be served a ’snack’ that’s large enough to be considered lunch, plus soft drinks, water, or coffee. The seats are comfortable, situated around a table. Note: Book the Inca Train at least six months in advance.

We recommend taking the train around 10 am, arriving at Aguas Calientes around noon. From there, check into your hotel (again, I recommend the Casa Andina option, which is the Casa Adina Machu Picchu), and take the 20 minute bus ride from the town to Machu Picchu. The line for the buses (and therefore the number of people at Machu Picchu) peaks in the early morning (from about 5 am to 7 am), so if you time your visit for mid-day, you’ll have a shorter line and arrive at the site as the early-birds are departing. By timing it this way, we toured Machu Picchu without any crowds at all, staying until closing time at 5 pm.

Absolutely, definitely, without a doubt get a guide for Machu Picchu. This site is absolutely huge, and there is so much to learn. Spend this day taking photos, learning about the site, and enjoying exploring the area. Then, return for a second day at Machu Picchu to do some hiking. (More on that in a minute.)

In the evening, you’ll find the town to be bustling and fun, with a blend of locals and many, many tourists and backpackers finishing the famed Inca Trail. There’s great shopping, and wonderful restaurants, In fact, the best meal we had our entire stay in Peru was at Indio Feliz, where a French expat and his Peruvian wife cook amazing meals. Take time to explore the town…it doesn’t close up early in the evening. Look for souvenirs at the big market by the train station; I noted that jewelry in the established stores were the same price as at the market.

On your second day in Machu Picchu, plan to do some hiking. Take the bus ride back up, and either hike the challenging Wina Picchu (mountain facing the ruins), or hike a few miles of the Inca Trail to the Sun Gate overlooking Machu Picchu. I recommend the latter for families who want a tough but short hike (it’s one mile up, one back) with stunning views. To do the even harder Wina Picchu, you need a hiking permit (get it six months in advance) and an early start (line up for the bus around 4 am). This hike is not for kids or anyone afraid of heights; I only recommend it to teens and adults who hike difficult terrain regularly. Consult a guide before attempting.

The reason for allowing two days in Machu Picchu, even if you don’t care about hiking, is twofold: first, there are times when traveling to the Sacred Valley is inhibited. During our trip, a farmers’ strike closed the main roads into the valley from Cusco, stranding many would-be tourists of Machu Picchu. For those who had planned only one day for the site, they missed out entirely on the number one attraction in Peru. Secondly, Machu Picchu is often shrouded in fog. Going for two days betters your odds for getting a nice day. If you plan two days and then end up only wanting to visit during one, you can find plenty of shopping and exploring in Aquas Calientes.

Tips for touring Machu Picchu:

Get Inca Rail train tickets 6 months ahead.
Get Wina Picchu permit 4 months ahead. Buy Machu Picchu tickets ahead of time as well, to save time at the gate.
If you plan to hike the entire Inca Trail, get permits ahead, and know that guides are required for the 4-day hike.
Try not to look down when taking the 20 minute bus ride from Aquas Calientes to Machu Picchu…it’s quite the ride up the mountainside!

While not as high in elevation as Cusco, Machu Picchu is at around 9,000 feet. Take precautions for altitude sickness.
Bring a packed lunch to Machu Picchu. There’s no where within the site to buy food; you won’t want to leave and come back in.
Get your passport stamped at the station by the buses, just for fun.

You WILL NEED your passport at Machu Picchu. I have no idea why, but you have to show it at the turnstile, as well as at the bus.
Bring mosquito repellent, and double your protection with long sleeves and long pants. The high Andean mosquitoes are not the virus-carrying kind, but they do bite like crazy.
Dress in layers: while you’re relatively close to the equator, you’re also at around 8,000 feet elevation. The weather changes often!

Three medieval towns in Northern France to tour with kids

October 12, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Paris may always be a good idea, but families can’t go wrong exploring the French countryside as well. While charming medieval towns, many of which are UNESCO sites, dot the map across France, travelers will find plenty to choose from within reasonable driving distance from the capital city. Rent a car and plan to spend 2-3 days exploring the following small to medium-sized medieval cities in Northern France:

Rouen:

Start in Rouen, the mid-sized city of Joan of Arc and Monet…how much more French can you get? Rouen is the center of Normandy, and an easy drive up the A13 from Paris. Best known for its English medieval history, William the Conqueror had a significant presence here, as did Richard the Lionhearted. During the Hundred Years War, Joan of Arc was tried and put to death by French churchmen in English-ruled Rouen in 1431.

Families with older kids interested in this history should make the new Historial Jeanne d’Arc museum, next to the cathedral, a first stop (it opened in 2015). Next, tour several of the many great religious buildings in Rouen…it’s not called the ‘city of a hundred spires’ for nothing. Learn more about Monet’s Cathedral Series at the Musee des Beaux-Arts-Rouen, a stop worthy of at least a few hours. The historic quarter is where you’ll want to stay for the many shops and restaurants as well.

Étretat:

Beyond Rouen to the north, Étretat is a coastal town in Upper Normandy with charm to match its natural splendor. Visitors can walk through the narrow, picturesque roads and arrive at dramatic oceanside cliffs and natural arches…always a surprise. Definitely take time to tour the Notre Dame de la Garde cathedral overlooking the water, and take a hike along the Alabaster Coast. Save space in your itinerary to sample the local mussels, too!

If you’re planning to tour Normandy WWII history and D-Day beaches with older kids during your trip through Northern France, Étretat makes for a scenic and relaxing ‘holiday’ location afterward, to soothe the soul, so to speak.

Montreuil sur Mer:

Next, head north up the French coast to Montreuil, a small town south of Boulogne sur Mer. Why visit? Montreuil is one of France’s still-preserved walled towns, fully encircled by three kilometers of ramparts dating from the Middle Ages to the seventeenth century. Start by walking round the ramparts, starting at the Citadel, the massive fortification to deter invaders (successful for many centuries). Keep in mind that while Montreuil was once a seaside town, it’s now about 15 kilometers inland (thanks to shifting coastal waters).

Part of Victor Hugo’s Les Miserables was set in Montreuil, a fact the town definitely tries to capitalize on (as would I!). History is woven into all parts of the small but quaint downtown area, but visitors just sort of feel it, instead of being force-fed it. There are not major museums to visit…rather, everywhere you turn is historically significant, old, and understated.

All three towns on this itinerary can be toured within just a few days, giving your family a nice break from city life in Paris. En route from town to town, you’ll definitely see quintessential Normandy: hedgerows, cows, stone chapels, and thatched roof homes winding around narrow streets. Enjoy!

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This post was written in partnership with Alamo Europe.

Guide to Cusco Peru with kids

October 5, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Cusco, Peru is the capitol of the Incan empire, and home to 500,000 Andean people. It’s a beautiful, vibrant, colorful city of contrasts. One minute, I’d feel as though I’m in the heart of Central America, with street foods, tourist vendors, and unfinished construction, and the next, I’d turn a corner to see a cobbled square with cathedral that could rival any in Europe.

The clash of Incan culture with Spanish rule is fascinating; on any given street, you can see the influence of Roman Catholic dominance in art, churches, and hillside Cristos, but also the Incan history in the faces of the Andean people and in the preserved ruins. On narrow alleys, you can glimpse the dome of a cathedral while running a hand along an Incan wall. It’s wonderful.

Guide to Cusco Peru:

Most of the cultural attractions of Cusco are located in the downtown area, around Plaza de Armas. Here’s what not to miss:

Convento de Santa Domingo del Cusco: this cathedral is on par with any I’ve seen in Italy or Spain, and is well worth the price of admission. There are no photos permitted inside, but note the Peruvian influence, which was allowed to carry on even during Spanish rule, such as the cuy (native Peruvian dish) on the plate in the replica of the Last Supper painting, and the Peruvian dress on the statue of Christ at the cruxifixction.

Streets and squares surrounding Plaza de Armas (named one of the most beautiful plazas in the world by National Geographic). This plaza is indeed one of the prettiest in South America, and the streets that fan out are an eclectic mix of Incan and Spanish culture and influence. You’ll find Incan walls framing narrow alleys, vendors selling colorful textiles, and plenty of statues, arches, and carvings.
San Pedro’s Market: this huge, colorful market is open every day of the week, and most Cusco residents shop here instead of in grocery stores. Everything you could ask for is on sale, and if you greet shop keepers with a friendly, Buenos Dias, they’ll explain what they’re selling (in Spanish). Drink in the sights and sounds, take photos (asking first), but don’t taste the delicious fruit smoothies unless you have taken medication before leaving home.

Saqsayhuaman: this Incan site on the hillside above Cusco is one of the area’s main heritage sites (one ticket will get you into sites in the Sacred Valley as well). At Saqsayhuaman, you can see how Incans walls were built (amazingly, without mortar or any type of filling between stones), and see the remains of sacred temples looking down on the city. Up here, you’ll see the Cristo too (much the same as the famous Rio one), and have great views of Cusco. Bring some soles (Peruvian currency…the dollar is 3 to 1 to the US dollar) for photos with the women in historic costume posing with llamas.

Temple of the Sun: This Incan site turned Spanish cathedral is, in my opinion, the best example of these two cultures colliding in Cusco. The Incan walls abut the Catholic cathedral, and the Incan Temple of the Sun interior was used as a clergy meeting room until recent years. It’s fascinating…and absolutely stunning.

Tips for visiting Cusco:

Cusco is a great city to visit as a family, but there are a few things to know ahead of time.

Go with older kids:

I recommend waiting to visit Peru when kids are at least 10 years old. The city, like much of Peru, is not stroller-friendly (if you do visit with younger kids, do as the Peruvians do, and wear your baby or toddler in a sling). The sights in the city are filled with history and culture older kids will appreciate but preschoolers and young kids will not. And underlying it all, there is a grittiness to Peru that could be tough to navigate while carrying young kids and dealing with their needs.

Take the altitude seriously:

Cusco is at over 11,000 feet in altitude. For families flying in from sea level (Lima), this is a big deal. On the day of your arrival, you’ll want to do nothing but get to your hotel, sit down, and relax. This is hard to do, of course, because you’ll want to go out and explore immediately. Luckily, you won’t also be fighting jet lag at the same time, as Cusco is only one hour behind Eastern Standard Time and two hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time.

There are some ways to ensure you adjust well to the altitude. In addition to taking it easy the first day, drink plenty of water, as well as coca tea (or chew coca candy), both of which can be found everywhere (especially in your hotel). You can even chew the coca leaves plain. This native plant has properties that help you adjust and alleviate some symptoms. In case you’re raising an eyebrow at ‘coca’, Peruvians grow almost twenty varieties of coca leaves, and only one of them is used to produce the illegal drug you’re thinking of. Coca tea is an herbal remedy that’s safe for the whole family (but as always, you decide what’s right for you and your family).

If you do feel some symptoms of altitude sickness, such as headache, dizziness, tingling in the fingers, or nausea, there are some things you can do.

Read our post on altitude sickness.

Most upscale hotels in Cusco will have canisters of oxygen for sale (and they’re cheap). The hotel staff will show you how to use them. Pharmacies in Cusco will also sell you over-the-counter medications for altitude sickness or headaches. In almost all cases, rest, oxygen, and some pain reducer solves the problem.

Take care with your water and food:

Unless you’ve opted for vaccines specifically for parasites and bacteria, don’t eat street foods in Cusco, and don’t ever drink the tap water. In fact, it’s important to keep your mouth closed in the shower or bath and to brush teeth with bottled water. Bottled water is sold everywhere, but you can also bring a reusable bottle like a LifeStaw Go with you. I do a combination of both.

And even in restaurants, beware of produce: as a rule of thumb, don’t eat any raw fruit or vegetable that hasn’t been peeled. For me, this means forgoing salads for the length of my trip, which is sad, but better than getting sick. I stick to fruits like bananas, oranges, and melons, to avoid any skin that may have been washed with tap water.

Don’t drive:

Driving in Cusco, and indeed, all of Peru, is a wild sport that appears to take skill and luck. I wouldn’t even try. Instead, tour Peru with a small group like Vantage Adventures, or hire a driver. There are cabs, but they didn’t seem too plentiful. If you’re ambitious, you can take cheap public transit (buses only), but the good news is that most of the cultural sites are in walking distance of downtown hotels.

Prepare for packs of dogs:

This sounds more alarming than it is, but the fact remains that in Cusco (as well as in rural areas), domesticated dogs run wild. According to our local guide, 90% of them do have owners, but the custom is to turn them outside when the family is at work and school, where they happily roam the street (usually in packs). These dogs look rough around the edges by American standards, but they are NOT starving, and during our week in the Cusco area, we never saw any dog being aggressive. If you have kids fearful of dogs (or are huge dog lovers), it’s good to be prepared for Cusco’s dogs!

Exchange money at a bank or currency exchange center away from the airport:

This usually goes without saying, but the rates you’ll pay at the airport are downright silly. Change money elsewhere. In Cusco, restaurants and most stores will take plastic, and street vendors are happy to take American dollars (but you’ll have to do the math to ensure you’re getting a fair exchange). I preferred to withdraw soles from an exchange center or ATM.

B.Y.O.T.P.:

Throughout Peru, it’s not uncommon to have public restrooms with out toilet paper. Bring your own TP. Carry your own in a day pack (or bring wet wipes). You don’t flush TP down the toilet like at home; it always goes in a trash can in the stall. It takes some getting used to!

Where to stay in Peru: Casa Andina hotel review

September 28, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

In a country like Peru, it can feel daunting to know which hotels to book for a family vacation. Undoubtedly, you want a place to stay that’s clean, safe, reliable, and friendly. Being close to attractions is nice, too. During my stay in Peru with Vantage Adventures, we stayed in Casa Andina hotels at every stop, and by the end of our trip, seeing each Casa Andina was a welcome sight.

This Peruvian hotel brand is nothing like the cookie-cutter hotel chains you may be picturing. Each property is unique to the region or city in which it’s located, and all have their own flavor. The only thing I found the same at each Casa Andina was the exceptional service and the clean, modern hotel rooms.

There are two types of Casa Andina: ‘Classic’ and ‘Private Collection’. The Classic Casa Andina hotels cost approximately $130 per night, and feature basic but comfortable lobbies, a basic but good included breakfast, and WiFi in your room for about 35 soles a night ($7). You’d think that because Classic hotels are lower in cost, they’d be located outside of desired areas, but in Cusco and Machu Picchu, I found Classics to be right in the heart of things, in ideal locations.

Private Collection Casa Andina hotels feature everything that the Classics do, but with upgrades to the rooms, to the service (though I must say I had great service at every Casa Andina) and to the grounds. You get a bigger, more impressive breakfast buffet included, and most Private Collection hotels also have an on-site restaurant for additional meals. Room rates are around $400 per night.

I stayed in four Casa Andina hotels in Peru: two Classic and two Private Collection. Here are my thoughts:

Casa Andina Cusco Cathedral:

This Casa Andina Classic is located adjacent to Plaza de Armes in Cusco. The location truly could not be better. From my room on the second level, I could look out over the street and see the dome of the cathedral. I had a very spacious room, though it was a corner room, with two big windows, a bathroom with a shower, and a flatscreen TV (and the aforementioned WiFi). Other travelers told me the rooms not facing the street were smaller, but quieter.

Downstairs, the lobby was small but pretty, with a doorman and coca tea on a refreshment stand at all times. The breakfast buffet was simple (think eggs, yogurt, juice, bread, toast, jam, and coffee), and there was no coffee service in the room. Personally, I loved this hotel, and would absolutely stay there again, mostly due to it’s perfect location.

Casa Andina Private Collection Cusco:

The Casa Andina Cusco is also located in Cusco (obviously), and is a Private Collection option in the historic center. It’s location is arguably just as good as the Classic hotel’s location. What makes this hotel unique is its historical significance. Originally a colonial mansion from the Spanish rule era, the hotel is a delightful maze of adobe-walled rooms with thick tile floor, interior courtyards with fountains and gardens open to the sky, and an elegant restaurant with original Renaissance era paintings. All this is in the heart of bustling Cusco, but is remarkably quiet.

Because the hotel is historic, rooms are smaller than most for the Private Collection, and some have only interior courtyard windows (instead of windows to the outside). However, I found the privilege of sleeping in a mansion to be a fair tradeoff. Instead of a large lobby, the Cusco has a warm, welcoming reception room with fireplace, as well as one of the city’s best bars. Its largest courtyard features tables and chairs around a pretty fountain. Adjacent, the hotel restaurant serves a breakfast buffet with made-to-order omelettes (ask your waiter) and both hot and cold choices that are authentically Peruvian (as well as some staples like cereal, fruit, and bread).

The staff was welcoming and warm from the general manager to the cleaning staff, and I felt safe and cared for completely.

Casa Andina Machu Picchu:

This Classic Casa Andina is located right down the stairs from the train station in Aquas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). On one side of this five story hotel is the Urubamba River, and on the other, the Inca Rail tracks. Despite this somewhat lively location, it was not loud, surprisingly. The lobby was basic (like other Classics) but warm and welcoming, and I enjoyed all the amenities I’d found in the other Classic I visited. My room was large, with a shower and bath and a flatscreen TV, and I had a great view of the river.

The breakfast buffet was similar to the other Classic, and located in a dining area at the basement level. From this Casa Andina, I was able to easily walk everywhere in the town, and could be at the bus stop for Machu Picchu in under two minutes.

Casa Andina Sacred Valley:

Probably the most visually appealing of all the Casa Andina hotels I visited, the Sacred Valley Private Collection location was a welcome sight after a long drive from Cusco. Located in Ollyanta within a ten minute drive to the Inca Train station, Casa Andina Sacred Valley is a beautiful resort nestled on a big property of lawns, gardens, and even a children’s playground. Truly an oasis in the valley, this property is the one you want to return to after a day of sight-seeing in and around the busy but sometimes overwhelming towns of the valley.

My room was spacious, with a flatscreen and wide window to the stunning natural scenery of the mountains and the gardens of the hotel. The Casa Andina Sacred Valley is made up of several buildings housing the rooms, so the walk outdoors to the lobby/reception area and the dining room and breakfast area is a welcome chance to take a peek at what the day has in store. Everything is secure, quiet, and peaceful. There’s a spa on premises, as well as inviting hammocks on the lawn.

No matter which Casa Andina you choose, I feel confident you can count on consistent service and standards. Read more about planning a family trip to Peru! Learn more about booking your own trip.

Where to stay in Peru: reviews of Casa Andina hotels

As I disclose when applicable, I was hosted by Casa Andina for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

Visiting Peru with Vantage Adventures

September 26, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

While visiting Peru, I saw all the bucket-list sites I planned to see: Machu Picchu, the Incan towns of the Sacred Valley, and beautiful Cusco. I hiked, I took hundreds of photos, and I took in the colorful marketplaces Peru is known for. But in addition, I saw and experienced things I had no way of knowing I wanted—perhaps even needed—to see and do.

I met jewelers at Arte Magico employing skilled workers from outside the city, a spiritual healer of the Incan people, weavers from the traditional town of Chinchero, boys from the squatter neighborhoods on the hillsides who work at the public cemetery outside school hours to help provide for their family, and school children and teachers from the isolated highlands. I tasted the traditional food and drinks of Peru: chicha, cuy, quinoa soup, chicha morada, and pisco sour. I was invited into a family’s home, and was able to talk with locals about the issues that matter to them: their work, their families, and their politics.

I was able to do all this because I was traveling with Vantage Adventures. Vantage is an established luxury small group travel company known for its European river cruises and five-star travel experiences, and in their new division of Vantage Adventures, they’re adding active, outdoor and adventure elements while retaining the type of rich cultural interactions I described above. I’ve traveled with several small group tour companies in places ranging from Alaska to the Dominican Republic, and none have offered the depth of immersion into a country as Vantage (though some have come close).

The Vantage Difference:

So how does Vantage do all this? There’s a magical ingredient in Vantage Adventures’ itineraries I’m going to call the Vantage Difference. In our itinerary of Peru, our Vantage Adventure Leader (head guide) Enrique went one step deeper into every stop.

When we were at Machu Picchu, he knew the history and archeological facts as well or better than any guide in the country. In Cusco (his hometown), he could show us the shops, restaurants, and ‘secret’ alleyways and side streets no one could have found on their own.

While touring the city’s impressive cathedrals, he shared the story of his own family’s Catholicism as it related to his Andean heritage. When sampling local foods and drinks, he gave anecdotes about his own childhood memories of these foods, tying the life of a Peruvian to the tastes and textures. He peppered every sight with a layer of history and culture, so that we came away with an understanding of not just the ancient Incan history, but of current day Incan values, considerations, and current events.

Traveling with Vantage Adventures is like traveling with a local…because you are.

Need an example? I have dozens, but here’s one that stands out: after touring a weaving cooperative in the Sacred Valley, we stopped at a local chicha shop near Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. Enrique translated the local chicha maker’s explanation of how to make this fermented corn drink, and we sampled it…all part of our tour. But afterward, he took us out to the courtyard behind the shop where he taught us to play a traditional Peruvian bar game (you toss weighted coins at a frog’s mouth for points…an equivalent to playing darts in a bar in the States).

While we played the game, he related his memory of playing ‘frog’ with his father and grandfather, and overhearing them discuss the dangers of the cocaine industry regime in Peru of that time. A few days later, Enrique told us, his grandfather had been shot and killed by the terrorists; his father—a policeman—was forced to withdraw into his home for his safety not long after.

Hearing this story while drinking this Peruvian drink and playing the game so many locals have enjoyed for centuries not only helped us to know Enrique better…it helped us connect present-day Peru to the past, and enabled us to better understand what Peruvians want for their future. This is an experience I could not have manufactured on my own, no matter how many guidebooks I read or sights I saw.

Vantage peace of mind:

The day we flew into Peru, the rural towns outside the city of Cusco began a farmers’ strike. Apparently somewhat common, this strike blocked off the roads leading from Cusco to the Sacred Valley. As a result, our entire itinerary had to be changed around on the fly. Vantage took this development in stride, re-structuring our itinerary in a way that felt seamless (but I know took a lot of organization on their part). Once the strike had officially ended, we took one of the roads in question to head to Machu Picchu. Unexpectedly, a rowdy group of lingering strikers ambushed our bus on the narrow road, throwing rocks and yelling. They’d blockaded the road with stones and rubble. Our guides and bus driver quickly accessed the situation, spoke to locals, and drove us swiftly to safety. We went to Plan C (remember, we were already on Plan B) to find an alternative route, then to Plan D when that plan was rendered useless as well by additional blockades. In the end, they got us to our destination by accessing local dirt roads over the Andes. After a somewhat harrowing (but totally exciting) ride over the mountains, we arrived at our luxury hotel, ready for Machu Picchu. While countless other tourists were stranded in Cusco, we enjoyed a day without crowds.

If I had been traveling without Vantage, there’s no way I would have known of alternative routes past the blockades. I would have been stuck outside of the Sacred Valley along with most other tourists. In that moment, I realized that while safe and friendly, Peru is a country of some unknowns, best explored with a local guide who can navigate.

Vantage Cares:

Peru has endured many dictatorships and terrorist regimes, and is a relatively new country to democracy. As a result, it is still a developing country in many ways. Tourism is a primary industry, and while tourist dollars alone assist Peru significantly, I was happy to hear about Vantage Cares. This program, in place on all Vantage Adventures, donates funds as well as on-the-ground assistance to worthy causes in each country Vantage visits.

In Peru, Vantage Cares sponsors a rural school about 50 minutes from Cusco. Vantage works directly with school administers to understand the needs of the school, then creates projects our local adventure guides can particulate in. We visited the school, which had just gotten a fresh coat of paint. The teachers and parents cooked us a big welcoming meal, and the students swarmed us, excited to see foreigners. They performed songs and showed us their favorite playground games, and we toured their classrooms. This visit was a true highlight of my trip.

Thanks to my education of Peruvian culture and events from Enrique and my on-site visit for Vantage Cares, I came away from Peru with a far richer understanding and connection than I would have otherwise.

How to visit Peru with Vantage:

I recommend a trip to Peru for any active family with school-aged or teen kids. It’s a country filled with diverse landscapes, outdoor adventure, rich culture, and lively cities. Select a trip to get started. Before you depart, be sure to check out our tips for travel in Peru.

As I disclose whenever applicable, I went to Peru on a familiarization tour with Vantage for the purpose of review. Without these fact-finding missions, I would not be able to recommend travel options to my readers.

Why you should visit Peru with Vantage Adventures

Travel products to protect against Zika Virus

September 9, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

We love family adventure, but we’re careful to be mindful of threats to family safety while we travel. Before you go to Central or South America, or the Caribbean, make sure you pack these travel products to protect against Zika or other mosquito-borne illnesses. And of course, always consult a health care professional before any trip to a destination known to have a Zika threat, to discuss any danger to your family.

Ben’s Insect Repellent Wipes:

The first step in protecting your family against Zika is to keep mosquitos away. We don’t like using DEET on our skin, but in the case of mosquito-borne illness, it may come down to choosing the lesser of two evils. Ben’s repellent is a brand I’ve come to trust, and it does offer protection from ticks and insects that may carry the Zika Virus, West Nile Virus (WNV), Lyme disease, Malaria, Eastern Equine Encephalitis (EEE), and other infectious diseases. Pick up a bottle of Ben’s in a TSA-complient size on Amazon.

Natrapel Wipes:

We’re a family that spends a lot of time outdoors, and Natrapel is the only DEET-free insect repellent we’ve found to significantly work. It uses a CDC-recommended 20% Picaridin formula, and lasts 12 hours. We use the wipes, simply because our kids tolerate them best, but it also comes in a spray bottle form. Pick up a package of wipes for under $9 on Amazon.

Adventure Medical Kits World Travel kit:

I cannot emphasize enough how important it is for every family to have a well-stocked medical and first aid kit when they travel. Yes, medical supplies and medications are available almost anywhere, but that doesn’t mean they’re readily available, and it doesn’t mean you’ll be able to communicate your needs or find the right place to buy them. Sometimes, they’ll be packaged differently or have a different brand name, making matters more confusing. Even in first-world countries like Ireland and England, I’ve had trouble finding the over-the-counter medicines I’ve occasionally needed.

We use Adventure Medical Kits when we camp and backpack, and their World Travel kit has everything you’ll need for a family of four. It’s fairly bulky, but I love that there’s extra room for your personal medications, too. It’s incredibly well designed, with different pockets for everything, and each flap is labelled, so you can easily get to the right space for intestinal medications, bandages, allergy meds, etc. It comes with a diagram for communicating your needs in several languages, and a pretty thick booklet on basic first aid. For trips when I’m short on space, I may remove the book to save space and weight. Pick up a World Travel kit on Amazon at a discount.

Scarf or head net:

I almost never travel without an organic cotton or wool scarf. I find so many uses for one, from a wrap on the chilly airplane to an optional headdress or bandana while in foreign countries. In Central and South America, my scarf has doubled as bug protection. I love Aventura Clothing scarves, but use what works for you. In some cases, you may even want to upgrade to a mosquito net for your head. We have used Sea to Summit mosquito head nets. Pick one up for under $10 on Amazon.

Insect repellent clothing:

For travel to the Caribbean and Central and South America during which you know you’ll be outside a lot, such as when we were volunteering in the Dominican Republic or our upcoming trip to Panama, when we know we’ll be visiting national parks and preserves, we decided we would rather invest in travel clothing treated with insect repellent rather than spray ourselves with it daily. I love the Toad & Co DeBug line for women, and have also traveled with ExOfficio’s BugsAway line extensively. ExOfficio is the first US company to offer insect protection in clothing, and their BugsAway items keep their repellent for 70 washes. I’m still wearing my ExOfficio crew shirt from 2013. For this fall’s travel, my husband is now wearing ExOfficio’s Baja Sur shirt, which is lightweight but tough as nails.

For kids, Columbia Sportswear’s PFG Bahama long-sleeved shirt helps repel both sun and mosquitos (though it is not treated with repellent).

Mosquito-free shelter:

Part of the fun of a tropical destination is sleeping outside in warm weather. If you think you’ll be sleeping outdoors, whether in a hammock on the rental home porch or in a backcountry environment, consider a mosquito shelter like Grand Trunk’s Mozzy Net. This 144″ by 30″ shelter includes spreader bars and guy lines, so you can expand it fully, like a tent, giving you plenty of room. And it packs down small into its own stuff sack for easy transport. Pick one up on Amazon for under $60.

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Have you traveled to Central or South America or the Caribbean lately? What precautions have you taken?

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