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Harry Potter road trip: UK filming sites worth visiting

July 22, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

There’s are many filming locations for the Harry Potter movie franchise scattered over the UK and Scotland, but frankly, not all of them are visit-worthy. For instance, the campsite Harry and Hermione find themselves in during the last book and movie is really more of a sewage treatment center with some grass outside. Other sites, however, have been destinations in their own right for years, and a few gems were virtually undiscovered by visitors until Harry Potter put them on the map. We’ve compiled our favorites. All you need to do is grab a flight and rent a car to check out these stops along a Harry Potter road trip of the UK.

Start in London:

King’s Cross Station: Visiting King’s Cross, the site of famous Platform 9 3/4 is a must for most Harry Potter fans. The wall that witches and wizards run into to access it is actually located between platforms 4 and 5. You can check out the location, then enjoy the decidedly Muggle ambiance of the busy station.

London Zoo: The Reptile House where Harry first learned he could talk to snakes on Dudley’s birthday looks just as it appears in the movie. Plan to stay and enjoy the rest of the London Zoo for at least the better part of a day. The zoo has an excellent lion exhibit and ‘sunset safari’.

Whitehall: The Palace of Whitehall was the main residence of the English monarchs in Londonfrom 1530 until 1698. While filming the Harry Potter series, the Ministry of Magic was set between Trafalgar Square and the Houses of Parliament in Westminster.

Drive to Oxford:

From London, take A40 to M40 to Oxford. Once in the area, there are numerous Harry Potter sites to visit.

Oxford Library: The Hogwarts library, pictured numerous times, including when Harry researches Nicholas Flamel, is located in Oxford’s Duke Humphrey’s Library, which is one of the special collections reading rooms at the Bodleian. Hermione also reads about Polyjuice Potion there, and Harry and Hermione discuss who to take to Slughorn’s Christmas party here.

Divinity School: The Divinity School at Oxford is the setting for the Hogwarts infirmary. Even if you know nothing of Harry Potter, stop in here. It’s breathtakingly beautiful.

From Oxford, continue on A40 to Gloucester:

Gloucester Cathedral: The corridor that leads to The Fat Lady and Gryffindor’s common room is located in the cloisters of Gloucester Cathedral, beautiful to visit whether a Potter fan or no. You may also recognize it as the corridor where Ginny writes “The Chamber of Secrets has been opened” in blood on the walls.

Drive to Wiltshire:

Drive the A417 out of Gloucester to the A361 to Wiltshire. Continue out of town to Lacock.

Lacock Abbey: Lacock Abbey is a treasure trove of Harry Potter sites. Professor Snape’s classroom is located in the Lacock Abbey Sacristy. Also located in the Wiltshire Abbey is professor Quirrell’s classroom. Of note: this room houses a genuine cauldron. The room where Harry views his deceased parents in the mirror is also in Lacock Abbey. In Chamber of Secrets, professor McGonagall uses the same room for her lesson on how to turn animals into water goblets. Horace Slughorn’s house is nearby in Chapel Hill, Lacock, Wiltshire.

Return toward London:

12 Picket Post Close, Martins Heron: Better known as 4 Privet Drive, Little Whinging, this is the exact home depicted as the Dursleys’ house in the films. Martin’s Heron in en route back to London, but it’s fairly close to the city, so this stop can certainly be done as part of your London itinerary as well.

Going further afield:

To continue your Harry Potter tour through the north, start by driving up A120 toward Suffolk.

Lavenham: This charming village is the filming site of Godric’s Hollow. A wonderful medieval village worthy of your visit, Lavenham may not be covered in snow during your visit, as it was during Harry’s Christmas pilgrimage, but you’ll still find plenty to occupy yourself here.

Goathland Station: The station that serves both the village of Hogsmeade and Hogwarts is actually Goathland Station, on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway.

More to see in Scotland:

Alnwick Castle: Known as a popular filming location (it was featured in Downton Abbey, Robin Hood, and more), Alnwick Castle, Northumberland is the location for Madam Hooch’s first flying lesson. You’ll need to walk to the Outer Bailey (courtyard). Harry and Ron also land the Ford Anglia here in Chamber of Secrets.

Loch Shiel, Glencoe: The setting for the Hogwarts Lake (most of the time, anyway), Loch Shiel is located near the Glenfinnan Viaduct. You can definitely see both in a day.

Glenfinnan Viaduct, Lochaber: One of the most recognizable settings from Harry Potter, this viaduct is the one the Hogwarts Express is crossing when Harry and Ron almost crash the Ford Anglia. During the summer months, you can take a ride along the track through West Coast Railways.

Bonus stops:

Wales: In scenic Pembrokeshire, Dobby’s tragic death takes place at Freshwater West.

Ireland: The well-known Cliffs of Moher on the Atlantic coast of County Clare are featured when Dumbledore takes Harry to find the Horcrux in the sea cave. If you also want to see the rock on which Harry and Dumbledore stand, however, that’s 90 miles away off Iveragh Peninsula.

This post was written in partnership with Alamo Europe. Photo credit

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Dominican Republic with kids: Power snorkeling at Sosua Beach

July 18, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

During our Fathom cruise in the Dominican Republic, we knew we wanted to both visit a local beach and take a snorkeling trip. We were able to do both during a power snorkeling trip with Wild Play Adventures.

Usually, we opt to skip official cruise excursions in favor of booking privately. You get a more personalized experience, usually for less. However, in the case of our DR trip, the official excursion was the only snorkeling trip to fit our tight schedule. While there were a lot of people on our trip (at least 25), we still had a great experience, due primarily to the beautiful location and abundance of saline.

Wild Play Adventures picked us up in an air conditioned bus directly from our port at Amber Cove, and drove us 50 minutes to Sosua, a beach town outside of the city of Puerto Plata. The beach at Sosua is gorgeous, and the little town hugging the shoreline is made up of a hodge podge of shops, restaurants, beach bars, and dive shops. It’s a little rough around the edges, and certainly far more local than touristy, and we wished we had more time to explore. Certainly, we’d like to return to Sosua on a return trip to the DR.

We checked into Wild Play’s snorkel center right on the sand, and were given lockers to store our belongings. We were issued fins, snorkels, and masks, and were brought onto the snorkel boat (which came right up to the shore) within minutes. I loved how quickly we were out on the water.

We rode in the boat to two nearby snorkel locations, jumping into the water to explore both. Since this was a ‘power snorkel’ trip, we were issued power snorkel machines, which have propellers that allow you to move more quickly through the water. These machines looked more intimidating than they actually were…the snorkel staff handed them to you in the water once you were already floating, so they were easy to manage. The kids enjoyed using them to propel themselves further underwater, and across small currents. Using the machines was optional, and I decided to snorkel once with one, once without.

We saw a wide variety of tropical fish, jellyfish, and coral in both locations…more than we even saw in Hawaii. I do wish our group had been smaller in number, so I recommend a private tour if and when possible. However, the big group was more manageable than you’d think once in the water. Between snorkel locations, we were served fresh cut fruit and beverages, including water bottles and soda. The two locations were only about 10 minutes apart, but if you’re prone to seasickness, I recommend medicating ahead of time.

Cost:

As noted, our snorkel tour was an official excursion on our Fathom cruise. We paid $69 per adult (12 and up). Check the Wild Play website for current pricing and excursion options. Expect the excursion to take half a day. We left at 2 pm and returned at 6:30 pm.

Age group:

For the power snorkel option, kids had to be 10 and up. Younger kids could participate without the power assist, but trust me, they’ll want to use one. I recommend booking a non-power assist tour if you have young kids.

Directions:

Wild Play picks you up from your cruise port at Amber Cove.

Dominican Republic with kids: 27 Waterfalls of Damajagua

July 15, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Located in the countryside outside of Puerta Plata, Dominican Republic, the 27 Waterfalls of Damajuana is the most talked-about experience on the north side of the island. Is it worthy of the hype? In a word, yes.

What is the 27 Waterfalls of Damajagua?

The 27 Charcos of Damajagua is exactly what it sounds like: 27 waterfalls in a row in the middle of the Dominican jungle. Unregulated until 2004, the waterfalls are now controlled by a private company thanks to Peace Corps volunteer Joe Kennedy (yes, of those Kennedys), and there’s quite the operation at the site. When you arrive, either by tour group or on your own, you’ll now find a dirt parking lot, tour booth, bathrooms and lockers, and outdoor dining area. Your group is paired with a guide from the falls, and you opt between navigating 27, 12, 7, or just one waterfall.

We wanted to do all 27, but the water level restricted us to 12. We went with Iguana Mama, and had a fun-loving guide, Raul. Our group of about 10 people were fitted with life vests and helmets (required), and we trekked almost two miles up a dirt trail. (The trail is around 3 km.) The youngest person in our group was eight, and the oldest was probably me, at age 40. The trail included steep wooden steps, rocks, and pretty severe inclines and declines, but overall was in good shape. The way was shaded as we hiked into the jungle canopy, and we were joined by a second guide, plus our guide who came with us from our cruise port.

When we reached the end of the trail to the 12 waterfalls (which took about 45 minutes), we climbed down another steep staircase and entered the river. In places, the water was only ankle deep, and in other places, over our heads. We began making our way back toward the ‘camp’ via the river, alternatively wading, swimming, jumping, sliding, and climbing in, over, under, and through the river. It was amazing.

At each of the 12 waterfalls, our guides would stop us and explain our options, which usually included leaping off a rock or outcropping into a deep pool of water below, sliding on our butts along naturally carved waterslides in the rock, or taking the ‘chicken’ way around waterfalls on questionable-looking ladders and staircases. Honestly, I think the most dangerous route was via those ladders!

Most of the time, I opted to jump (sometimes as much as 10 feet), but I also enjoyed sliding. The kids loved both options, and often, we’d climb back up ladders or ropes to do certain waterfalls a second time. There were groups ahead and behind us, which meant we had to keep to a schedule (see ’tips’ section below), but overall, we didn’t feel rushed. I don’t love heights, but I’m used to jumping off ledges, so the experience didn’t daunt me. If you REALLY don’t like heights, there are work-arounds for each waterfall, but they’re in the form of the aforementioned ladders, which, honestly, are just as scary.

In some places, you can swim underneath the waterfalls or explore partial caves carved out of the rock, and throughout the whole experience, the jungle canopy is above you, shading you and sheltering you. The sunlight cuts through gently (you don’t need sunglasses), and we didn’t find the hike or the swim to be buggy. The water is refreshing but not too cold.

The route down through the waterfalls took us about 1.5 hours, and afterward, we had a short hike back to the camp where we changed and had an included lunch of Dominican beans and rice, BBQed chicken, and a few kid pleasers like (oddly) spaghetti. Soda and rum and coke were included.

How to book a tour:

You can either arrive to the waterfalls on your own, taking a taxi from Amber Cove or an autobus from Puerto Plata, or you can book an excursion through Iguana Mama or Marysol Tours. The latter option is more expensive, but what you’re paying for is the convenience of the transportation (and the expensive gasoline required to make that happen). If you opt to arrive solo, you simply pay as you arrive (about $480 Dominican pesos for all 27), and guides are assigned to you on a first-come, first-served basis. This means you may have to wait a bit for the next guide.

Tips for the waterfalls:

Book a tour early in the day to play in the water with fewer crowds. This ensures you won’t wait for a guide if you’re going solo, either.
Bring waterproof shoes (like Keens or Chacos) or an old pair of sneakers to get wet.
Put on bug spray and sun screen ahead of time.
Keep everything but your waterproof camera on the bus or in a locker.

Cost:

We booked a tour through Iguana Mama, because we wanted the convenience of a port pick-up. Our tour included lunch and cost just over $50 US per adult. If you opt out of a tour, the cost is significantly less per person (around $10), but does not include transportation or lunch. We were quoted everything from $40-100 US for a cab ride for five people from Amber Cove. It IS possible to negotiate a flat rate from taxis on the highway.

How to get there:

If you go on your own, get up-to-date directions at 27charcos.com. More information is found here.

Dominican Republic with kids: Exploring Puerto Plata with Marysol Tours

July 13, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

If you find yourselves on the northern coast of the Dominican Republic near Puerto Plata, you’ve probably come to the island via Carnival or Fathom cruise, to Amber Cove port. (Most all-inclusive resorts are located at the far tip of the island at Punta Cana.) From Amber Cove, the town of Puerta Plata is only about 10 minutes away, and well worth a visit in your exploration of the area.

You can get a ’top 10’ sort of tour through your cruise ship, but we recommend hiring a guide on your own. We used Marysol Tours, and found the experience far superior to a large bus tour.

The good:

We easily set up our day with Marysol Tours ahead of time, via email. From their site, simply go to the section on Puerto Plata city tours and email your preferred date and number in your party. We were a party of five, and had no trouble getting the day we needed. Francisco organizes the tours, and you’ll be well taken care of.

Before our tour, we told Francisco we wanted to see some of the highlights of the city, including Fort San Filipe and Central Park, but also wanted the opportunity to make some changes to the set itinerary (anticipating we’d get recommendations once on the ship). I loved that Marysol Tours welcomed this flexibility. The price (listed below) was actually less than that of the big group tour, and we had the ability to make changes on the fly.

The standard city tour includes a tour of the rum factory in town, a visit to the amber museum (this area is rich in amber), a few minutes in the old city center with its Victorian homes and church, the San Filipe fort, a cigar factory, and a walk along the Malecon (ocean front). For an extra $10 each, visitors can also go up the cable car, which is the highest in the Caribbean with views overlooking the city.

We decided we wanted to see everything except the cigar factory (which simply didn’t interest us), and we were obliged. We also skipped the cable car, since it was a foggy day, and our guide, Jesus, and driver, Ricardo, took us to a scenic overlook instead, which still gave us views of the city. At the rum factory, we were given the standard tour (with entrance fee covered), and at the city center, we visited the central square and church. This area was run down, but beautiful to see, despite some fairly aggressive locals hoping to show us around for tips. Nearby was an amber jewelry store, and we visited this instead of the museum. To us, this was more authentic because we met the jewelers and saw the process of making the jewelry they sold.

We took a San Filipe fort tour in the same manner as the run factory (Jesus left us in the hands of the on-site tour operators), and then we walked along the waterfront adjacent. All of this was well-worth seeing.

The not so great:

After we visited the fort, we asked if we could end our tour at a restaurant recommended to us. Instead, Jesus and Ricardo first took us to another restaurant on their agenda, which was far too touristy for us, and we had to firmly explain that this wasn’t what we wanted. Despite assurances that we could deviate from the planned itinerary, it took a phone call to Francisco to explain our desires. Certainly, the tour company has an agenda they are trying to stick to. However, after a phone call to Francisco, Jesus was able to take us to Maimon, the tiny town on the other side of the port, where we had been told we could find some of the best seafood in the region. We told Jesus he could leave us here to eat, as it was only a few minutes’ taxi ride from the port, but he and Ricardo kindly returned for us after our meal. And yes, our meal was the best we had in the Dominican Republic. We highly recommend La Primo in Maimon.

The totally awesome:

When Jesus and Ricardo came to pick us up, we asked them where we could find a rare tropical fruit, guanoabana. Ricardo cheerfully took us on a wild goose chase to no fewer than four roadside fruit stands to find the after-dinner treat. Finding guanoabana made our day!

The bottom line:

We had to keep our wits about us to make sure we got the tour we wanted, but once we were clear about our needs, Marysol Tours went above and beyond. We had a very good, personalized tour of Puerto Plata.

Cost:

A city tour with Marysol Tours is $35 for adults and $18 for kids (free for lap children). As noted above, this is less than the pre-determined cruise excursions for a more personalized experience. Be sure to budget a little extra for a tip for your guide and driver.

Directions:

Marysol Tours will pick you up at Amber Cove. During our trip, they were not an official cruise partner, so we had to meet them just outside the main gate (by the highway) instead of in the terminal. It was about a 10 minute walk from our ship.

Disclosure: We were given a media discount from Marysol Tours, for the purpose of review. I paid full price for the teens.

Impact travel with teens: What to expect on a Fathom cruise

July 11, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

If you have kids over age 8, and are ready to dive into some form of volun-tourism while you vacation, a Fathom cruise to the Dominican Republic may be a great place to start. Fathom cruises combine the fun of a cruise vacation with a meaningful way to give back, and, perhaps even more importantly, a way to connect with local people in a meaningful way, getting to understand local issues, customs, and dynamics.

Fathom, a child company of Carnival Cruise Lines, is the first cruise line to dedicate itself to this type of ‘impact travel’, with week-long routes to the Dominican Republic, and (currently without impact activities), to Cuba. The ship, Adonia, docks in the new Amber Cove port by Puerto Plata, far from the all-inclusive resorts of touristy Punta Cana, and focuses on the under-developed side of the island.

The concept is a simple one: bring in cruise passengers on a regular basis who can 1. impact the economic situation of northern Dominican Republic, 2. come alongside Dominicans to add manpower (and woman and child power) to their current, established projects, classrooms, and businesses, and 3. make meaningful interpersonal connections in the process.

The regular, scheduled shiploads of volunteers give your week-long effort a bigger impact, and your tourism dollars help a part of the country that otherwise is often overlooked.

I took my 17-year-old and 14-year-old on the Adonia to the Dominican Republic in June, to see exactly how it all works and how much impact we felt we had. I’ve taken part in ‘mission trip’ type vacations before, and the level of actual usefulness of such trips vary greatly. I wanted to know whether Fathom’s formula was different, how much good was being done, and how it actually felt to go on their ‘impact activities’ with my teens. And because the ship and cruise line is so new, I wanted to share the scoop on what to expect from embarkation to disembarkation.

What to expect pre-trip:

When you book a Fathom cruise (which, by the way, is a bargain compared to other Caribbean cruises…see pricing here), you’ll be sent an informational email with information about your boarding date and disembarkation date. The Fathom’s home port is Miami. It’s important to note the exact time on the dates, because like any cruise, the ship won’t wait for you. Be sure to book a flight that allows plenty of time to get to the port, even taking possible delays into account. From the west coast, we opted to take a flight an entire day early.

You’ll also get access to the Fathom Trip Planner, which you can log onto online at Fathom.com once you have a booking number. Get onto your trip planner as soon as possible, because this is where you sign up for your impact activities…the activities you’ll do in the Dominican Republic alongside locals. Examples of impact activities include laying concrete flooring, building water filters, planting trees, helping in a chocolate production facility, and teaching English. Alongside these activities are also ‘recreational’ activities you can book through Fathom, which are essentially organized cruise excursions such as snorkeling, city tours, catamaran sailings, and the like. You can book up to six activities total per person, and impact activities DO fill up fast.

Some things to note when deciding on impact activities:
Kids need to be on the same impact activity as at least one parent
Impact activities are all free, apart from a small supply fee for a few of them ($10 range)
Most impact activities are half a day (either before lunch or after), then a few take 3/4 a day
If the impact activity you want is full, try again a few more times before your cruise (people drop things as their schedules change)

I recommend picking your impact activities first, then filling in the rest of the space with ‘for fun’ activities. The offered port excursions are solid, but pretty expensive, like all cruise excursions. We actually only did one of them, the power-assisted snorkeling afternoon. The other things we were interested, which included a city tour of Puerto Plata and a hike to the 27 Waterfalls, we opted to book on our own.

It’s easy to book excursions on your own, either before your trip (recommended) or at Amber Cove. For a private tour of Puerto Plata and the surrounding area for less cost than the big group bus tour offered by Fathom, we hired a private guide (basically a taxi) through Marysol Tours.

We booked our hike and swim at the 27 Waterfalls through Iguana Mama, a local company that now operates tours out of Amber Cove. We went with other cruise passengers, but booked this on our own because Fathom did not yet offer it officially.

See all our posts about Dominican adventures.

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Things to do on the Great Barrier Reef with kids

July 6, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

The Great Barrier Reef is a magical place to visit. Most parents wouldn’t think that it is safe to tour Australia’s natural wonder with kids, but there are actually quite a few things you can do. Introducing them at a young age helps them learn about the biodiversity and the beauty first hand. There are over 6,600 species of flora and fauna that live in the Great Barrier Reef; this includes 1,500 species of fish, 400 kinds of coral, and 4,000 species of mollusks. In this article, we will cover the different things you can do with your kids on holiday on the Great Barrier Reef.

Glass Bottom Boat Rides

You can charter a glass bottom boat ride from most port cities in Queensland adjacent to the Great Barrier Reef. The clear glass allows you and your children to see the marine life, the brightly coloured fish and the magnificent corals without getting wet or even needing to know how to swim. Safely peer down into the clear blue waters and introduce your children to a whole new world they will come to love and respect.

Island Excursions

There are many different islands among the Great Barrier Reef that make for a great holiday with the kids. You can hire a Budget rent a car easily, and be on your way to one of the islands. Each of the islands boast several white sand beaches just waiting for sand castles. Some islands have accommodations so that you can stay on the island and get to experience so much of the Great Barrier Reef right from the island. The shallow beaches allow little ones to get their feet wet and experience the Coral Sea without getting in too deep. Whatever your tastes and budget is, there are island accommodations for you. If you thought staying on a Great Barrier Reef island was out of reach for a modest single parent budget, think again. All types of accommodations are available from budget camping tents, cabins, cottages, lodges, and luxury resorts. Here are some specific kid friendly island activities:

If you are looking for kid-friendly fun while on the island, check out Hamilton Island where you can plan to go bowling, take art classes, go-kart racing, mini golf, quad bikes and more.
From September to March you can see the Loggerhead and Green sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs and then the babies hatch and make their way back into the water. This is an excellent phenomenon to see with your kids.
On Daydream Island (located in the Whitsunday Islands) the resort there has an amazing living reef that runs through it. The Living Reef is one of the largest man-made living coral reef lagoons in the whole world. Children get to experience a piece of the Great Barrier Reef in the shallow lagoon without the dangers of open water. There are more than 140 species of marine fish and 83 species of coral in the Living Reef. Guests of the resort can wade through the waters, explore, touch, and learn about the marine life swimming through it. There are daily educational seminars and feeding sessions to help educate everyone about the reef, its inhabitants, and the importance of conservation.
Low Isles is a small cay just off the coast of Port Douglas. It is easy to get to but access is limited; so if you plan ahead of time, you can be a part of a limited tour that is perfect for you and your kids. There is a lighthouse on the island and a shallow, sheltered lagoon in the bay that is perfect for swimming.

Kid Friendly Activities in Port Cities

Up and down the Queensland coast along the Great Barrier Reef are a series of major port cities: Cairns, Port Douglas, Townsville, Mackay, and Rockhampton. Each port city allows for easy access to destinations and charters on the Great Barrier Reef.

Things to Do in Cairns:

Cairns Zoo
Mossman Gorge
Kuranda Rainforest
Barron Gorge National Park

Things to Do in Port Douglas:

Daintree Rainforest
The Rainforest Habitat Wildlife Sanctuary
Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures

Things to Do in Townsville:

The Strand Water Park
The Rockpool
Museum of Tropical Queensland
Reef HQ Aquarium
Billabong Sanctuary

Photo credit: Flickr/SummerDay, Flickr/RobertLinsdell, Flickr/PaulTooGood

Best restaurants in Rome for non-foodies (plus eating in Italy tips):

June 6, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Eating in Italy? You’re in for a treat! After eating our way through the country, I am here for you with tips for dining in Italy with kids, plus our picks for the best restaurants in Rome. Note: for Florence dining recommendations, read our Three Days in Florence with Kids article.

Best restaurants in Rome (by category):

Pizza:

Pizza Forum: This restaurant has a boring name, and looks and sounds touristy, but was recommended to us by our Italian tour guide. She was not wrong. In fact, while it’s located in a very touristy zone near the Forum, it was filling up with locals when we got there at 2 pm.

Panettoni: Located in the Trastevere area, we thought Panettoni served the best of the traditional Roman variety of pizza: it was light, thin, and flavorful.

Honestly, every other pizzeria in Rome calls itself the best. (Not unlike New York City pizza joints, actually.) Just about anywhere, you’ll find good pizza, especially if you stick to the basics. Really. Enjoy.

Trattorias:

Armando al Pantheon: this little place is big on ambiance, in a perfect location for dining after an evening of souvenir shopping around the Pantheon. You can even visit Piazza Navona first, then dip out of that expensive dining area to pay much less for better food here.

Ristorante Pizzeria Imperiale (Largo Corrado Ricci, 37, by Coloseum): Another spot along the busy Colosseum and Forum area, this place as a nice outdoor patio (heated in winter), great seafood dishes, and above average pizza.

Cuccagna 14 (Via della Cuccagna): This bright and cheery trattoria just outside of Piazza Navona won us over with it’s twinkling lights and warm ambiance. Their bruschetta and antipasto was sourced completely by a local farm, and their lasagna was to die for.

Upscale Trattorias:

Il Bacaro: A super-friendly place near the Pantheon, we had great antipasto here and inventive second courses.

Ad Hoc: this cozy little hole-in-the-wall wine bar off Piazza Populo isn’t great for big families, but they can easily accommodate a group of four or less. (I’m sure they can accommodate more, but it would be a squeeze for you and the other diners.)

Faciolaro Ristorante Pizzeria (via dei Pastini by Pantheon): We ate one of our favorite meals here on New Year’s Eve. The grilled steak was a group favorite, and I loved the homemade pasta and excellent artichokes. Their open kitchen is fun, too…ask to sit in the dining area near it.

Gelato, coffee, and dessert:

There’s a little cafe right on the corner of the Jewish Ghetto by Piazza Venicia that serves excellent pastry and macchiato. Ask for the puff pastry with whipped cream. They’ll slice it for you on the spot, fill it with cream, and drizzle it with chocolate.

Cremeria Monteforte: I first found this gelato hot-spot ten years ago on my first trip to Rome. It was so good, I came back for more (Rick Steves swears by it, too). It’s located directly on the piazza of the Pantheon. Sit outside and eat with a view!

Come il Latte (Via Silvio Spaventa, 24): this place by Repubblica has some of the most authentic and homemade gelato in Rome. Plus, you can get flavored whipped cream on top.

Venchi: There are actually many Venchi shops across Italy, and the brand is a solid pick. Look for flowing chocolat calda (hot chocolate) and chocolate candies as well. We found one by the Spanish Steps, but youll see them elsewhere, too.

Note: Right off Piazza Navona, there’s a very average gelato shop with a very extraordinary server. I wish I could remember the name of the place, but it’s located on the far end of the piazza. We assume the server was the owner, because he was very animated, enthusiastic, and welcoming. He joked with the kids, added extra scoops to cones, and smiled at everyone who came in. This older gentleman made our night!

Rome dining tips:

Finding exact restaurant recommendations can be frustrating, since the streets are not in a grid pattern and you’ll likely be meandering until you’re hungry. Our rule of thumb: once you’ve found any major attraction or piazza, enjoy it, then walk one block down any connecting street for the best dining options. The restaurants directly on the piazzas will be higher priced and probably touristy, but just a matter of yards away, smaller, tucked away establishments beckon. This is your sweet spot.

Don’t overlook specialty stores and groceries. Look for meat and cheese counters where you can put together your own antipasto plate to eat at home, or make a picnic out of foods at pasta shops and wine bars.

Florence tips:

Florence and the great Tuscany region is known for their beef and spinach as well as their wine. If you order something in the ‘Florentine style’, it’s likely with spinach. And this is not the canned PopEye variety…you’re in for a treat. If ordering steak, as my teens love to do, be sure to ask how big it actually is. In Florence, it’s often sold (even in restaurants) by the kilogram. It’s not unusual for the steak to be the size of the dinner plate. Enjoy!

Florence can get very touristy, but head over the Ponte Vecchio and you’ll be in fewer crowds and find better prices. Enjoy afternoon gelato, and you may get away with simple antipasto in your room for a the kids’ dinner hour. There’s an upscale grocery store with an excellent cheese and meat counter located right over the bridge. Turn left at the second street and look for the blue sign.

General tips for eating in Italy:

During our trip through Florence, Pisa, Rome, and Naples, we found the following to be true nearly everywhere:

Almost all restaurants around tourist areas will provide menus or menu boards out front. Look through prices before you’re pressured to go in. Primi or pasta courses in good trattorias will be in the 8-12 euro per person range. Secondi courses can reach 20-30 euros per person. There’s no need to order both a first and second course. We liked to order one antipasto plate for the table (see appetizer tip below) and one plate (primi, secondi, or pizza) per person.
Head to trattorias (cafes, casual) but don’t be afraid to venture into osterias (wine bars, pubs). Both are kid-friendly. In fact, just about everything is kid-friendly when it comes to the Italian food scene.
When ordering, beware of saying yes to suggested appetizers ‘for the table’. In Italy, this often means one per every person at the table (with the price multiplied accordingly). We made this mistake at a adorable trattoria near Piazza Navona when we ordered the suggested bruccetta. It was a happy mistake, as the plate was delicious, but still cost us an extra 25 euros.
Buy water for the table by the liter. Ditto for wine, if you’re on a budget. Water doesn’t come to the table automatically or complimentarily. Ordering it per person can be up to 2,50 euro a glass. Alternatively, a liter of water (size of an extra large water bottle) is usually around 3,50. We usually buy a few of these for the table, since we’re used to drinking a lot of water with our meals.
Wine is cheap and plentiful. Enjoy. We like to get a half liter or liter for the table, depending on how many adults will be drinking. Note for parents of teens: the legal drinking age is 16 (and younger kids will not be frowned upon for drinking wine either, FYI).
Soda, on the other hand, is often just as expensive as wine, and sometimes as expensive as water. When we want soda, which isn’t too often, we buy it by the liter in the grocery store, and let the kids drink it during pre-dinner ‘aperitif’.
So what IS aperitif? This is the Italian version of happy hour, but more refined. It’s usually between 6 pm and 8 pm, and involves wine or a cocktail intended to open the digestive track for the later dinner meal. It often comes with antipasto-type dishes. We found that with kids in tow, we didn’t bother going out for aperitif, but we did enjoy our own version in our rental apartment. We bought cheese, crackers, and salami in the grocery store, and paired them with wine for mom and dad and soda or juice for the kids. This tided us over until 8 pm or later for dinner out.
In and around the tourist hot spots in Rome and Florence, you’ll be hard-pressed to find restaurant staff who do not speak enough English to get you by. Even the less touristy establishments can help you pick out what you want to eat, and without exception, we found all restaurants to be friendly to us as Americans bumbling with our Italian.

What are your top tips for dining in Italy? I’d love to hear them!

Normandy in a day: What to see with 12 hours by car

May 23, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

If you can carve out a free day during a visit to Paris, it’s well-worth your time to explore Normandy. While this region of France deserves a week or more of your attention, families can hit some highlights with just a day. We’ve written about taking kids on a D-Day site tour from Paris with Viator, and while I highly recommend going this route if you can’t rent a car, it does take longer to visit Normandy by bus, and there will be things you will wish you had the freedom to explore. Plus, you can go further afield by car, exploring as far as the western coast.

Normandy in a day…start with D-Day sites:

By exploring Normandy by car, on your own, you’ll definitely save time. From the center of Paris, it takes about 2.5 hours to reach Caen, which we consider the biggest metropolis within Normandy. You’ll want to stop here to check out the excellent Caen-Normandie Memorial museum. Located at the site of a German bunker and stronghold during the French occupation, this modern museum covers WWII very much in depth, from pre-war time through the liberation.

Note: It does cover the holocaust in detail, including Jewish ghettos and camps, so prepare children. In fact, I’d recommend this whole tour only to families with kids age 10 and up. If you want to skip sections: It’s hard to bypass details because exhibits are intermixed, but the area downstairs towards the end of the hall have the most holocaust stories. The violence of the D-Day battles are much less graphic, even in the film.

From Caen, you’re only about 30 minutes away from D-Day beaches and cemeteries, and the route from here is decidedly more picturesque (from Paris to Caen, you’re on the interstate). Start by driving to Pointe du Hoc, which will land you right on the coastline. From there, you can easily drive along the coast to Omaha Beach, and Juno Beach, stopping at the national cemetery as well (located at Omaha). The route is charming, with villages to stop and explore and fields and hedgerows (though it’s good to remember that these hedgerows were sites of one-on-one type battles during the war). At the beaches, it’s permitted to walk along the sand and even wade in the surf; it feels a bit odd to do so given the sobering history of the area, but you’ll also need a break from the museums and exhibits to get fresh air and let kids play a bit.

Seeing Mont St. Michel:

If you’re truly ambitious, or have the luxury of an overnight in Normandy, head along the Normandy coastline southwest to Mont St. Michel. (As an alternative, you can easily get to Mont St. Michel from Caen if you’re not touring D-Day sites.)

If you have young kids, I’d recommend seeing Mont St. Michel perhaps in place of D-Day sites, as this island fortress resembles a fairy tale castle like no other. An abbey built by monks in the 6th century, Mont St. Michel and the surrounding village is touristy now, but somehow still feels authentic. When arriving by car (rather than tour bus), park in the car lot and take a provided shuttle to the entrance. Be sure to get an audio guide if not a tour guide; you’ll miss a lot of the history otherwise.

The best parts of Mont St. Michel to kids is the maze-like hallways and tunnels through the abbey, and the ‘mudflats’ that surround it. This squishy, muddy sand is very fun to play in (bring rain boots if you have that ability). You can dine anywhere in town, though you’ll be paying tourist prices (but the seafood is so good, you won’t care).

The drive from Mont St. Michel back to Paris is about 3.5 hours, so you’ll add an hour to your drive ‘home’. Realistically, you’ll need to decide between D-Day beaches and Mont St. Michel, or stay overnight in Caen to see both.

What you’ll lose and gain by road tripping to Normandy on your own:

You’ll lose a ready-made tour guide: our Viator.com tour guide during our Normandy trip by bus really helped us all grasp the history and significance of the area. If you go solo, be sure to pick up a good guidebook, and prepare kids ahead of time.
You’ll gain a bit of stress: No doubt about it, it’s nice to have someone else navigate and drive, especially on foreign roads.
You’ll lose planned stops, including lunch: On our Viator tour, we were able to have a private lunch in a D-Day museum, which was a special experience.
You’ll gain the freedom to explore villages and find a quiet lunch of your own.

This post was written in partnership with Alamo. All opinions remain our own.

Eight top adventurous destinations to explore with your kids

May 13, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

The following guest post is brought to you by G Adventures.

Pick up any children’s story-book and you’ll quickly discover a love for adventure. From timeless classics like Huckleberry Finn, Treasure Island and Paddington Bear to the more recent Harry Potter and 39 Clue series, kids love to throw themselves into the wild, mystical, and magical terrain of a good adventure tale.

Children are born with an innate motivation to master their environment. A sense of adventure is normal, healthy, and should without a doubt be encouraged.

A great adventure can develop your child’s:

Curiosity and creativity
Decision making
Resilience
Strength to overcome fear
Self-efficiency
Confidence

For the ultimate adventure with your children before they grow up, check out some of our favourite family travel hot spots.

China – The Great Wall

The Great Wall of China, one of the greatest wonders of the world, winds up and down over deserts, grasslands, mountains and plateaus. It stretches almost 9,000 kilometres, and has a history of more than 2,000 years.

The historical significance and absolute grandeur of the Great Wall is what makes this a must-see for all families. It carries a great deal of Chinese culture, and has long been incorporated into Chinese mythology and symbolism.

Originally designed to protect China from invasion by nomadic tribes in the Eurasian Steppe, the wall has served China well over the years to protect the country from land-hungry neighbouring countries.

To best explore this historic monument, take one of the many tours which explores the who, when, and why behind the Great Wall.

Ecuador – The Galapagos Islands

The Galapagos Islands are an archipelago of volcanic islands, and is home to some of the most incredible wildlife and sealife including giant tortoises, marine iguanas, penguins, fur seals and blue-footed boobies. Snorkelling is a highlight, giving you the opportunity to explore the fascinating underwater world of the Galapagos Islands.

Charles Darwin used this natural haven as the headquarters for his studies of endemic species, and it was through his observations of this Ecuadorian province that he developed his renowned theory of evolution by natural selection.

When visiting the island no experience is necessary for snorkelling, and experienced naturalists will guide you through basic safety, what to look out for, and where to look. Children are provided with special snorkelling life vests that help them keep their heads in the right position for the ultimate snorkeling experience.

Morocco – Camel Trekking

A trip to the Sahara Desert is something every person should do at least once in their life. Staggeringly beautiful in its sheer isolation, the vast sky is clear and the night is filled with millions upon millions of stars. It’s one of the most peaceful experiences you’ll ever have and will open up your children’s eyes to the varying landscapes of the world.

To experience the Sahara in authentic Arabian style, you can’t beat a camel trek across the dunes to a secluded oasis. Stay a night in Dades Valley, or stop for lunch at the World Heritage site of Ait Benhaddou and enjoy a spicy Berber tagine prepared over an open fire. Camp in traditional Nomadic Berber tents, experience a drum party, and ride the incredible sand dunes of Erg Chebbi.

The Sahara has long been a place of nomadic exploration, and it covers a vast area of 9,400,000 square kilometres.

Peru – Machu Picchu

Talk to any traveller about their most incredible experience, and if they’ve been to Peru then they will undoubtedly say Machu Picchu. A wonder of the Ancient World, Machu Picchu is a 15th-century Inca site located 2,430 metres above sea level. If you’re wanting to give your kids a good history lesson that won’t leave them bored and doesn’t include a 4 day hike, it doesn’t get better than this.

The site was abandoned in the 1500’s during the Spanish Conquest, and was then largely ignored until the early 20th century when American historians brought the site to international attention. It was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983, and was voted a New Seven Wonder of the World in an online global survey.

For the ultimate adventure in Machu Picchu, join an experienced guide and explore ancient ruins off the beaten path in the Sacred Valley, meet local artisans at a Planeterra-supported Women’s Weaving Co-op, take delight in a scenic train ride and its views over the Andes mountain range, or enjoy a traditional pachamanca-style feast. Leave no stone unturned and your kids will thank you forever.

Thailand – Chiang Mai Cookery School

One of the greatest gifts you can give to your children before they leave home is the skill to be handy in the kitchen. Once out in the big wide world, they will need to know how to cook – and as everyone loves Thai food, why not attend a Thai cooking school together?

Thai cuisine is all about the balance of flavours with a strong attention to detail. As a lighter cuisine than Chinese, Thai food strikes that perfect note between lots of flavour without being too overpowering.

Discover the latest recipes from Thailand’s top-rated chefs, enjoy gourmet dinner parties, and brush up on skills you never knew you had. Choose a beginner’s course to learn about spices, curry pastes, shopping for produce and vegetable carving, or select a master’s course and learn innovative and mouth-watering Thai dishes, chef’s best kept secrets, and how to prepare a five-star gourmet dinner.

India – Jaipur Rickshaw

The autorickshaws of Jaipur are a convenient and inexpensive way to get around the city, and can dodge and weave their way through the heavy traffic with ease. More often than not, the price you are given is in fact double what it should be, so haggling is something you’ll need to get good at. Perhaps you can even pass on that task to one of your older children? It’s a great confidence booster if they manage to get a great price!

Designed to carry four passengers, rickshaws are like a roller coaster ride, and are much more fun than sitting in a stuffy taxi.

Rickshaw-like transportation models have been used in society since the invention of the wheel, but the first known use of the term rickshaw has been traced back to 1887.

Egypt – Sailing on the Nile

Crewed by friendly local sailors, the traditional feluccas found on the mighty River Nile have been there since ancient times, but are now updated to provide absolute comfort. Being wind-powered crafts the itinerary is not set in stone, however you can be assured there will be lots of swimming and plenty of points of interest.

Carrying 8-13 passengers, a felucca offers a rare insight into life on the River Nile. The peaceful routine of life aboard offers escape from everyday stresses, and it’s an ideal opportunity to bond with your children while looking at some spectacular sights.

As the largest river in the world and home to historic civilisations such as the ancient Egyptians, the Sudanese and most of northern Africa. As such, it has a rich cultural history that is well worth hiring an experienced guide to learn more about.

Jordan – Camp at Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum, also known as the “Valley of the Moon”, is a valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock of southern Jordan. The area’s main source of income is eco-adventure tourism, attracting climbers and trekkers from all over the world. But you don’t have to be a climber to enjoy this magnificent part of the globe.

Visitors to Wadi Rum can live the authentic Bedouin life in small or large Bedouin goat haired tents, traditional for families living in the area. Complete with campsite staff, you can enjoy special Bedouin meals, camel and horse tours, hiking trips, 4×4 jeep tours, or even a hot air balloon ride.

You’ll also have a chance to view the rock paintings and temples left behind by a number of cultures since prehistoric times. Taking the family to Wadi Rum is like taking the family to a whole other world.

Where would YOU go among these adventurous destinations?

Guide to Villa Borghese with teens who want to do everything extreme

May 9, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

We’re a very active family who spends significant time outdoors when we travel. In Rome, we noticed the lack of green spaces right away. Luckily, our apartment rental was located directly across the Tiber from Piazzo Popolo with an entrance to Villa Borghese. This sprawling green space and garden is Rome’s version of Central Park, and if you have active kids and teens who need to burn off energy, this is your place.

We visited Villa Borghese several times during our five days in Rome, using it as our backyard after mornings in museums and historical sites. Originally a private vineyard and most elegant villa in the city for the Borghese family, the park is technically a historical site in its own right, but we admit we didn’t take advantage of its Galleria Borghese or other museums. We were simply there to play.

From the Piazza Popolo entrance, you’ll head up a series of steep steps to enter the park at a beautiful overlook. This is, in our opinion, the place to watch the sunset over St. Peter’s dome. You’ll find a number of vendors in this wide space at the top, as well as fountains and paths that lead you further into the park. Younger kids will appreciate the free puppet shows at the little theater in this section, and this is also where you can rent bikes and pedal-powered go-karts.

Garden features like this one are featured amid all the touristy offerings. You’ll see a wide pedestrian bridge adjacent to the bike rental stands, which will lead you across a round-about (with some traffic) to the center of the park. Explore this area on wheels, or your feet will get tired! It’s huge. You’ll find another theater, this one with movies, touted as ‘the smallest cinema in the world’. I don’t know whether this is true, but it’s pretty tiny. It runs kids’ movies in the day and intellectual stuff like documentaries and foreign language films in the evenings. There’s a playground, several cafes, and many more gardens and fountains. In a second section, you’ll find a lake with boat rentals; we visited in winter, so this wasn’t a main draw for us.

Rent bikes, surreys, and go-karts:

The first thing we did was rent bikes so we could explore. Rental stands are plentiful, so you shouldn’t have trouble finding one, no matter where you enter the park. At the time of our visit, rentals were approximately €7 per hour. We found one hour to be enough to ride around and get the lay of the land. On subsequent visits, we walked where we wanted to go. Go-kart and surrey rentals were similarly priced, with the exception of the four-person surreys, which were more. You leave your ID with the attendant when you rent (I gave my driver’s license, as my passport doesn’t leave my sight when possible) and pay when you return on time. The teens had a blast with the petal-powered go-karts…mostly, they played ’tag’ with them on the wide dirt paths around the park.

Rent Segways:

In Piazzo Popolo, you can rent Segways by the half hour or longer. You don’t need to go with a guide, and very little to no instruction is given. To the teens, this was awesome. Rentals were €10 for 30 minutes. We rented three (one for each kid). If you rent for longer, you can actually take them from the piazza up to the park, which we saw many families doing, but our budget only allowed for half an hour. The kids loved riding these around the piazza…while undoubtedly a touristy thing to spend money on, we considered it money well-spent. For a total of €30, three kids were in heaven. Like with the bike rentals, we were asked to leave an ID, and the kids were told ‘not to zig-zag and not to run into each other’. If seen doing either, they’d be given one warning, then taken off the Segway. Even though the kids hadn’t used Segways before, they’re easy to learn, and we had no problems until the moment we returned them, during which our 11-year-old ran into the back of our 16-year-old while distracted by the guy’s instructions for parking. He was sternly admonished. We were glad it hadn’t happened earlier.

Watch street performers with serious skills:

All over the park, street performers with various talents show off their skills. We enjoyed a pretty good roller blade demonstration and some great juggling. We heard some good music and some very bad music, then returned to watch the roller bladers in time to see some wince-inducing crashes by some amateurs. Either way, it was entertaining.

Buy a soccer ball or play at a playground:

For about €5 (though they’ll ask for ten, initially), many street vendors have cheap soccer balls for sale. We bought one at the beginning of our stay in Rome, and the boys used it in the park several times before giving it away to another child before we departed. You’ll find plenty of grass areas in which to start a game, and we found other kids joined in almost every time. In fact, when Calvin dribbled it around the city, about every other restaurant waiter standing outside their dining establishments jumped in to pass it around and start conversations with us. Money well spent!

What to eat:

There’s a sit-down cafe by the playground, plus many other carts and stands throughout the park. My favorite was by the round-about and pedestrian bridge. It had outdoor seating (heated in winter) and a crepe station. The espresso and chocolat caldo (hot chocolate) were excellent.

How to get there:

As noted above, we always entered from Piazza Popolo, but you can also enter above the Spanish Steps (we departed the park here once). There’s a metro station in both locations.