South America - Pitstops for Kids

South America travel: Three outstanding museums in Bogota

November 23, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

The city of Bogota dates back to 1538 and it’s no wonder that it houses some of the most interesting museums in Latin America. Some of those exhibits are must-see if you want to get a full experience of Colombia. Step off the beaten path and take a look at the Police Museum, Botero Museum, and Museo Santa Clara when visiting the city.

Best museums in Bogota: three places not to miss

Museo Botero

Museo Botero is one of the most recent additions to the museum map of Latin America. Opened in 2000 today it has one of the best modern art collections on the continent. It all started with Fernando Botero, a renowned Colombian artist, who donated 123 of his own works and 85 art pieces from his personal collection.

Today, everyone can see the beautiful pieces free of charge and over 500,000 a year use this opportunity. Aside from the permanent collection, the museum often hosts exhibits of talented modern artists.

Works of Botero himself are exquisite and haunting. They reflect many of the horrific events that plagued Colombia during the period of drug cartel violence. If you are interested in witnessing and understanding the amazing transformation the country managed to undergo, you definitely need to take a look at Botero’s art and compare it to the sunny Bogota streets of today that are filled with life and laughter.

Museo Historico de la Policia

The Police Museum of Bogota is another must-see place for those who want to learn more about the turbulent history of this country. You will most likely see it during the walking tours in Bogota. The building itself is beautiful and considered one of the best architectural sites in the city. However, you should definitely see it with a guide because it’s the story of the imposing building that makes it truly outstanding.

This museum is one of the most fascinating attractions in Bogota due to both interesting exhibits and guides. The tour will be presented by an 18-year-old on a compulsory police service. It’s true that Bogota has quite the history of violence, especially against the police. The exhibits and stories you will discover in this museum are both horrifying and enlightening. Most importantly, they show the tremendous spirit and dedication of the police force.

The only downside is that the museum isn’t particularly big and the tour only takes about 45 minutes. However, there can be no doubt that those would be some of the most informative 45 minutes you spend in Colombia. The museum is free, so everyone can enjoy it.

Museo Santa Clara

Santa Clara Museum is where you should go to learn about the history of Bogota and Colombia that goes back to the colonial times. The building of the museum is also the oldest church in the city. Its decorations are magnificent and rich, but it’s the art pieces by some of the most talented baroque artists that draw the most attention.

Today the museum does not only have some fascinating historical exhibits. It also hosts many events, including concerts. You should definitely see if you manage to catch one during your visit to Bogota.

Final tips for visiting museums in Bogota:

There are over a dozen of museums in Bogota and if you have a chance, you should take a look at each. The city has a very interesting history, which you can learn from many exhibits. However, you should also take your time exploring art museums and galleries because this will help you see more of the beauty that Bogota has to offer. Start with Museo Botero, Police Museum, and Santa Clara Museum as they will show you three distinctly different sides of the magnificent city that is Bogota.

Plan your next family vacation in Ecuador

November 16, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Is it a good idea to go to South America with kids? No – it’s a great idea! Ecuador, a geographically diverse little equatorial country on the Pacific coast of Northwestern South America, is an ideal destination for a family vacation. With its temperate climate, fun activities, breathtaking wildlife, and access to the Andes, the Amazon, the Galapagos Islands, and historical colonial cities, Ecuador offers sights, sounds, and experiences that kids will remember for the rest of their lives.

Family vacation in Ecuador: Start in the highlands

The whole country of Ecuador is about the size of the American state of Colorado, but it offers beaches, mountains, jungles, and the world-famous Galapagos Islands, where visitors can see evolution in action. It’s a good idea to begin your Ecuador vacation in the highlands, because altitude changes between the islands or coast and the mountains can be hard on the body over the course of a short trip. That’s not to say it can’t be done, of course; and you could just as easily begin your trip on the islands and at the coast and work your way inward toward the mountains and the jungle, depending on what works best for your family.

The colonial city of Quito is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a must-see. A few days in Quito will give you the chance to tour the historic Old City, as well as explore some of the surrounding sights. Two hours north of Quito on the Pan-American Highway, you’ll find the town of Otavalo, with its famous indigenous market, scenic hiking and biking, and boutique hotels operated out of colonial-era haciendas. Otavalo offers the country’s best shopping, with plenty of locally-made goods, including things kids will love, like dolls and painted wooden toys, jewelry, fluffy toy llamas, musical instruments, and CDs of local music.

If you have older kids or teens that enjoy outdoor adventuring, don’t miss Baños, a town in the Ecuador highlands famous for its thermal baths. Other activities in Baños include bungee jumping, rafting, kayaking, and biking. From Baños, venture into the Amazon, where you can take a day trip into the wilderness or stay at one of the area’s eco-lodges located smack-dab in the middle of the jungle.

If you have time, travel the 300 miles south of Quito to visit Cuenca. Another UNESCO World Heritage site, Cuenca is another colonial city that is quieter and cleaner than Quito. It offers numerous cultural attractions, including the Museo Pumapungo and the Old Cathedral of Cuenca. Outdoorsy types should visit the nearby El Cajas National Park, known for its cloud forest trails and home to giant hummingbirds and Andean Condors.

Don’t miss the Galapagos

No trip to Ecuador would be complete without a trip to the Galapagos Islands. Strict local laws have managed to keep the Galapagos Islands relatively pristine, and the lack of local predators mean that Galapagos wildlife has no fear of humans. The Galapagos Islands are located 600 miles from the mainland, so you’ll have to catch a flight, and experienced Ecuador travelers recommend flying between islands, too, if you can afford it; transportation by boat is available, but it’s slow and the boats often break down, resulting in longer trips. If you can’t afford to fly between islands, boat travel is still feasible; book locally with companies who can give you information about the condition of specific boats, and add about 50 percent to the stated travel time to account for disruptions.

Make some time to visit each of the three main islands, Santa Cruz, San Cristobel, and Isabela, so that you get a chance to spot as much wildlife as possible. Santa Cruz is the best island to see the Galapagos tortoise, but San Cristobal offers many opportunities to watch sea lions. Go snorkeling off San Cristobal to swim with Galapagos sharks and sea turtles. Isabella sports stretches of pristine beach inhabited only by Galapagos penguins, blue-footed boobies, and marine iguanas; snorkeling here is great, as well.

Traveling with kids is always intimidating, but a vacation to Ecuador could end up being your family’s best vacation ever. One thing’s for sure – a family vacation to Ecuador is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity that you and your kids will remember fondly together for years to come.

Photo credit: John Solaro

Guide to Machu Picchu and Sacred Valley Peru

October 17, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

We traveled through Peru with Vantage Adventures, which I highly recommend. However, this guide is designed to be useful to you whether you’re traveling with Vantage, another tour company, or on your own.

The Sacred Valley of Peru is a stunning region of high mountain plains dotted with quinoa, wheat, and Incan corn, impossibly high peaks covered in glaciers, and valleys nestled with medium to small-sized towns. This is the gateway to Machu Picchu, a lower valley of almost tropical rainforest and glacier-carved mountains. This is truly the land of ‘Pachamama’…the Peruvian term for ‘mother earth’.

Guide to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley:

Machu Picchu is undoubtedly the best known Incan site, but the Sacred Valley is filled with them. You’ll want to spend at least three days in this region: two at Machu Picchu and at least one full day and night in the Sacred Valley. Here’s how to go about it:

From Cusco, drive the 1.5-2 hours into the Sacred Valley, and tour the historic ruins at Ollantaytambo (Ollanta for short). This is where you’ll catch your train to Machu Picchu, by the way. But for now, these ruins are a great second to the Saqsayhuaman ruins you probably already saw in Cusco. Built on the mountainside, the Ollanta ruins have three main parts: a hillside granary area that can be explored by sturdy hikers, a sun temple area that can be accessed by about 200 stone steps (definitely worth it), and an Incan town at the base. In the town area, you can see the Inca village’s temple to water (with spring water flowing through it to this day), their irrigation/water system cut into the stone, their family dwellings, and their marketplace. Above, you can see their sun temple and terraces, where they grew crops in the mountainside.

Allow at least three hours to tour it all (and longer if you want to hike to the granary), plus some time in the modern village, which is filled with street hawkers, tourist shops, and the like. This is a busy, lively place, and worth exploring for a bit. You can also visit the salt flats nearby, and other ruins such as Moray, accessible by the Boleto Touristico del Cusco, which has multiple site entry available for one entry fee of 130 soles.

Stay in the Ollanta area; I recommend the luxury oasis of Casa Andina Sacred Valley, if only for the lovely grounds with gardens, hammocks, and a kids’ playground. You’ll want somewhere to unwind after all the bustle of the cities.

Note: If you tour Peru with Vantage Adventures as I did, you’ll send even more time in the Sacred Valley, going places solo tourists cannot, such as a weaving co-op and local school. This type of access is one reason I do recommend Vantage.

On your second day in the Sacred Valley, take the Inca Train from Ollanta to the town of Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). The ride takes about 1.5 hours, and if you book the Vista Dome train, you’ll get stunning views the whole way. The train experience is very upscale in Vista Dome: you’ll be served a ’snack’ that’s large enough to be considered lunch, plus soft drinks, water, or coffee. The seats are comfortable, situated around a table. Note: Book the Inca Train at least six months in advance.

We recommend taking the train around 10 am, arriving at Aguas Calientes around noon. From there, check into your hotel (again, I recommend the Casa Andina option, which is the Casa Adina Machu Picchu), and take the 20 minute bus ride from the town to Machu Picchu. The line for the buses (and therefore the number of people at Machu Picchu) peaks in the early morning (from about 5 am to 7 am), so if you time your visit for mid-day, you’ll have a shorter line and arrive at the site as the early-birds are departing. By timing it this way, we toured Machu Picchu without any crowds at all, staying until closing time at 5 pm.

Absolutely, definitely, without a doubt get a guide for Machu Picchu. This site is absolutely huge, and there is so much to learn. Spend this day taking photos, learning about the site, and enjoying exploring the area. Then, return for a second day at Machu Picchu to do some hiking. (More on that in a minute.)

In the evening, you’ll find the town to be bustling and fun, with a blend of locals and many, many tourists and backpackers finishing the famed Inca Trail. There’s great shopping, and wonderful restaurants, In fact, the best meal we had our entire stay in Peru was at Indio Feliz, where a French expat and his Peruvian wife cook amazing meals. Take time to explore the town…it doesn’t close up early in the evening. Look for souvenirs at the big market by the train station; I noted that jewelry in the established stores were the same price as at the market.

On your second day in Machu Picchu, plan to do some hiking. Take the bus ride back up, and either hike the challenging Wina Picchu (mountain facing the ruins), or hike a few miles of the Inca Trail to the Sun Gate overlooking Machu Picchu. I recommend the latter for families who want a tough but short hike (it’s one mile up, one back) with stunning views. To do the even harder Wina Picchu, you need a hiking permit (get it six months in advance) and an early start (line up for the bus around 4 am). This hike is not for kids or anyone afraid of heights; I only recommend it to teens and adults who hike difficult terrain regularly. Consult a guide before attempting.

The reason for allowing two days in Machu Picchu, even if you don’t care about hiking, is twofold: first, there are times when traveling to the Sacred Valley is inhibited. During our trip, a farmers’ strike closed the main roads into the valley from Cusco, stranding many would-be tourists of Machu Picchu. For those who had planned only one day for the site, they missed out entirely on the number one attraction in Peru. Secondly, Machu Picchu is often shrouded in fog. Going for two days betters your odds for getting a nice day. If you plan two days and then end up only wanting to visit during one, you can find plenty of shopping and exploring in Aquas Calientes.

Tips for touring Machu Picchu:

Get Inca Rail train tickets 6 months ahead.
Get Wina Picchu permit 4 months ahead. Buy Machu Picchu tickets ahead of time as well, to save time at the gate.
If you plan to hike the entire Inca Trail, get permits ahead, and know that guides are required for the 4-day hike.
Try not to look down when taking the 20 minute bus ride from Aquas Calientes to Machu Picchu…it’s quite the ride up the mountainside!

While not as high in elevation as Cusco, Machu Picchu is at around 9,000 feet. Take precautions for altitude sickness.
Bring a packed lunch to Machu Picchu. There’s no where within the site to buy food; you won’t want to leave and come back in.
Get your passport stamped at the station by the buses, just for fun.

You WILL NEED your passport at Machu Picchu. I have no idea why, but you have to show it at the turnstile, as well as at the bus.
Bring mosquito repellent, and double your protection with long sleeves and long pants. The high Andean mosquitoes are not the virus-carrying kind, but they do bite like crazy.
Dress in layers: while you’re relatively close to the equator, you’re also at around 8,000 feet elevation. The weather changes often!

Guide to Cusco Peru with kids

October 5, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Cusco, Peru is the capitol of the Incan empire, and home to 500,000 Andean people. It’s a beautiful, vibrant, colorful city of contrasts. One minute, I’d feel as though I’m in the heart of Central America, with street foods, tourist vendors, and unfinished construction, and the next, I’d turn a corner to see a cobbled square with cathedral that could rival any in Europe.

The clash of Incan culture with Spanish rule is fascinating; on any given street, you can see the influence of Roman Catholic dominance in art, churches, and hillside Cristos, but also the Incan history in the faces of the Andean people and in the preserved ruins. On narrow alleys, you can glimpse the dome of a cathedral while running a hand along an Incan wall. It’s wonderful.

Guide to Cusco Peru:

Most of the cultural attractions of Cusco are located in the downtown area, around Plaza de Armas. Here’s what not to miss:

Convento de Santa Domingo del Cusco: this cathedral is on par with any I’ve seen in Italy or Spain, and is well worth the price of admission. There are no photos permitted inside, but note the Peruvian influence, which was allowed to carry on even during Spanish rule, such as the cuy (native Peruvian dish) on the plate in the replica of the Last Supper painting, and the Peruvian dress on the statue of Christ at the cruxifixction.

Streets and squares surrounding Plaza de Armas (named one of the most beautiful plazas in the world by National Geographic). This plaza is indeed one of the prettiest in South America, and the streets that fan out are an eclectic mix of Incan and Spanish culture and influence. You’ll find Incan walls framing narrow alleys, vendors selling colorful textiles, and plenty of statues, arches, and carvings.
San Pedro’s Market: this huge, colorful market is open every day of the week, and most Cusco residents shop here instead of in grocery stores. Everything you could ask for is on sale, and if you greet shop keepers with a friendly, Buenos Dias, they’ll explain what they’re selling (in Spanish). Drink in the sights and sounds, take photos (asking first), but don’t taste the delicious fruit smoothies unless you have taken medication before leaving home.

Saqsayhuaman: this Incan site on the hillside above Cusco is one of the area’s main heritage sites (one ticket will get you into sites in the Sacred Valley as well). At Saqsayhuaman, you can see how Incans walls were built (amazingly, without mortar or any type of filling between stones), and see the remains of sacred temples looking down on the city. Up here, you’ll see the Cristo too (much the same as the famous Rio one), and have great views of Cusco. Bring some soles (Peruvian currency…the dollar is 3 to 1 to the US dollar) for photos with the women in historic costume posing with llamas.

Temple of the Sun: This Incan site turned Spanish cathedral is, in my opinion, the best example of these two cultures colliding in Cusco. The Incan walls abut the Catholic cathedral, and the Incan Temple of the Sun interior was used as a clergy meeting room until recent years. It’s fascinating…and absolutely stunning.

Tips for visiting Cusco:

Cusco is a great city to visit as a family, but there are a few things to know ahead of time.

Go with older kids:

I recommend waiting to visit Peru when kids are at least 10 years old. The city, like much of Peru, is not stroller-friendly (if you do visit with younger kids, do as the Peruvians do, and wear your baby or toddler in a sling). The sights in the city are filled with history and culture older kids will appreciate but preschoolers and young kids will not. And underlying it all, there is a grittiness to Peru that could be tough to navigate while carrying young kids and dealing with their needs.

Take the altitude seriously:

Cusco is at over 11,000 feet in altitude. For families flying in from sea level (Lima), this is a big deal. On the day of your arrival, you’ll want to do nothing but get to your hotel, sit down, and relax. This is hard to do, of course, because you’ll want to go out and explore immediately. Luckily, you won’t also be fighting jet lag at the same time, as Cusco is only one hour behind Eastern Standard Time and two hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time.

There are some ways to ensure you adjust well to the altitude. In addition to taking it easy the first day, drink plenty of water, as well as coca tea (or chew coca candy), both of which can be found everywhere (especially in your hotel). You can even chew the coca leaves plain. This native plant has properties that help you adjust and alleviate some symptoms. In case you’re raising an eyebrow at ‘coca’, Peruvians grow almost twenty varieties of coca leaves, and only one of them is used to produce the illegal drug you’re thinking of. Coca tea is an herbal remedy that’s safe for the whole family (but as always, you decide what’s right for you and your family).

If you do feel some symptoms of altitude sickness, such as headache, dizziness, tingling in the fingers, or nausea, there are some things you can do.

Read our post on altitude sickness.

Most upscale hotels in Cusco will have canisters of oxygen for sale (and they’re cheap). The hotel staff will show you how to use them. Pharmacies in Cusco will also sell you over-the-counter medications for altitude sickness or headaches. In almost all cases, rest, oxygen, and some pain reducer solves the problem.

Take care with your water and food:

Unless you’ve opted for vaccines specifically for parasites and bacteria, don’t eat street foods in Cusco, and don’t ever drink the tap water. In fact, it’s important to keep your mouth closed in the shower or bath and to brush teeth with bottled water. Bottled water is sold everywhere, but you can also bring a reusable bottle like a LifeStaw Go with you. I do a combination of both.

And even in restaurants, beware of produce: as a rule of thumb, don’t eat any raw fruit or vegetable that hasn’t been peeled. For me, this means forgoing salads for the length of my trip, which is sad, but better than getting sick. I stick to fruits like bananas, oranges, and melons, to avoid any skin that may have been washed with tap water.

Don’t drive:

Driving in Cusco, and indeed, all of Peru, is a wild sport that appears to take skill and luck. I wouldn’t even try. Instead, tour Peru with a small group like Vantage Adventures, or hire a driver. There are cabs, but they didn’t seem too plentiful. If you’re ambitious, you can take cheap public transit (buses only), but the good news is that most of the cultural sites are in walking distance of downtown hotels.

Prepare for packs of dogs:

This sounds more alarming than it is, but the fact remains that in Cusco (as well as in rural areas), domesticated dogs run wild. According to our local guide, 90% of them do have owners, but the custom is to turn them outside when the family is at work and school, where they happily roam the street (usually in packs). These dogs look rough around the edges by American standards, but they are NOT starving, and during our week in the Cusco area, we never saw any dog being aggressive. If you have kids fearful of dogs (or are huge dog lovers), it’s good to be prepared for Cusco’s dogs!

Exchange money at a bank or currency exchange center away from the airport:

This usually goes without saying, but the rates you’ll pay at the airport are downright silly. Change money elsewhere. In Cusco, restaurants and most stores will take plastic, and street vendors are happy to take American dollars (but you’ll have to do the math to ensure you’re getting a fair exchange). I preferred to withdraw soles from an exchange center or ATM.

B.Y.O.T.P.:

Throughout Peru, it’s not uncommon to have public restrooms with out toilet paper. Bring your own TP. Carry your own in a day pack (or bring wet wipes). You don’t flush TP down the toilet like at home; it always goes in a trash can in the stall. It takes some getting used to!

Where to stay in Peru: Casa Andina hotel review

September 28, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

In a country like Peru, it can feel daunting to know which hotels to book for a family vacation. Undoubtedly, you want a place to stay that’s clean, safe, reliable, and friendly. Being close to attractions is nice, too. During my stay in Peru with Vantage Adventures, we stayed in Casa Andina hotels at every stop, and by the end of our trip, seeing each Casa Andina was a welcome sight.

This Peruvian hotel brand is nothing like the cookie-cutter hotel chains you may be picturing. Each property is unique to the region or city in which it’s located, and all have their own flavor. The only thing I found the same at each Casa Andina was the exceptional service and the clean, modern hotel rooms.

There are two types of Casa Andina: ‘Classic’ and ‘Private Collection’. The Classic Casa Andina hotels cost approximately $130 per night, and feature basic but comfortable lobbies, a basic but good included breakfast, and WiFi in your room for about 35 soles a night ($7). You’d think that because Classic hotels are lower in cost, they’d be located outside of desired areas, but in Cusco and Machu Picchu, I found Classics to be right in the heart of things, in ideal locations.

Private Collection Casa Andina hotels feature everything that the Classics do, but with upgrades to the rooms, to the service (though I must say I had great service at every Casa Andina) and to the grounds. You get a bigger, more impressive breakfast buffet included, and most Private Collection hotels also have an on-site restaurant for additional meals. Room rates are around $400 per night.

I stayed in four Casa Andina hotels in Peru: two Classic and two Private Collection. Here are my thoughts:

Casa Andina Cusco Cathedral:

This Casa Andina Classic is located adjacent to Plaza de Armes in Cusco. The location truly could not be better. From my room on the second level, I could look out over the street and see the dome of the cathedral. I had a very spacious room, though it was a corner room, with two big windows, a bathroom with a shower, and a flatscreen TV (and the aforementioned WiFi). Other travelers told me the rooms not facing the street were smaller, but quieter.

Downstairs, the lobby was small but pretty, with a doorman and coca tea on a refreshment stand at all times. The breakfast buffet was simple (think eggs, yogurt, juice, bread, toast, jam, and coffee), and there was no coffee service in the room. Personally, I loved this hotel, and would absolutely stay there again, mostly due to it’s perfect location.

Casa Andina Private Collection Cusco:

The Casa Andina Cusco is also located in Cusco (obviously), and is a Private Collection option in the historic center. It’s location is arguably just as good as the Classic hotel’s location. What makes this hotel unique is its historical significance. Originally a colonial mansion from the Spanish rule era, the hotel is a delightful maze of adobe-walled rooms with thick tile floor, interior courtyards with fountains and gardens open to the sky, and an elegant restaurant with original Renaissance era paintings. All this is in the heart of bustling Cusco, but is remarkably quiet.

Because the hotel is historic, rooms are smaller than most for the Private Collection, and some have only interior courtyard windows (instead of windows to the outside). However, I found the privilege of sleeping in a mansion to be a fair tradeoff. Instead of a large lobby, the Cusco has a warm, welcoming reception room with fireplace, as well as one of the city’s best bars. Its largest courtyard features tables and chairs around a pretty fountain. Adjacent, the hotel restaurant serves a breakfast buffet with made-to-order omelettes (ask your waiter) and both hot and cold choices that are authentically Peruvian (as well as some staples like cereal, fruit, and bread).

The staff was welcoming and warm from the general manager to the cleaning staff, and I felt safe and cared for completely.

Casa Andina Machu Picchu:

This Classic Casa Andina is located right down the stairs from the train station in Aquas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). On one side of this five story hotel is the Urubamba River, and on the other, the Inca Rail tracks. Despite this somewhat lively location, it was not loud, surprisingly. The lobby was basic (like other Classics) but warm and welcoming, and I enjoyed all the amenities I’d found in the other Classic I visited. My room was large, with a shower and bath and a flatscreen TV, and I had a great view of the river.

The breakfast buffet was similar to the other Classic, and located in a dining area at the basement level. From this Casa Andina, I was able to easily walk everywhere in the town, and could be at the bus stop for Machu Picchu in under two minutes.

Casa Andina Sacred Valley:

Probably the most visually appealing of all the Casa Andina hotels I visited, the Sacred Valley Private Collection location was a welcome sight after a long drive from Cusco. Located in Ollyanta within a ten minute drive to the Inca Train station, Casa Andina Sacred Valley is a beautiful resort nestled on a big property of lawns, gardens, and even a children’s playground. Truly an oasis in the valley, this property is the one you want to return to after a day of sight-seeing in and around the busy but sometimes overwhelming towns of the valley.

My room was spacious, with a flatscreen and wide window to the stunning natural scenery of the mountains and the gardens of the hotel. The Casa Andina Sacred Valley is made up of several buildings housing the rooms, so the walk outdoors to the lobby/reception area and the dining room and breakfast area is a welcome chance to take a peek at what the day has in store. Everything is secure, quiet, and peaceful. There’s a spa on premises, as well as inviting hammocks on the lawn.

No matter which Casa Andina you choose, I feel confident you can count on consistent service and standards. Read more about planning a family trip to Peru! Learn more about booking your own trip.

Where to stay in Peru: reviews of Casa Andina hotels

As I disclose when applicable, I was hosted by Casa Andina for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

Visiting Peru with Vantage Adventures

September 26, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

While visiting Peru, I saw all the bucket-list sites I planned to see: Machu Picchu, the Incan towns of the Sacred Valley, and beautiful Cusco. I hiked, I took hundreds of photos, and I took in the colorful marketplaces Peru is known for. But in addition, I saw and experienced things I had no way of knowing I wanted—perhaps even needed—to see and do.

I met jewelers at Arte Magico employing skilled workers from outside the city, a spiritual healer of the Incan people, weavers from the traditional town of Chinchero, boys from the squatter neighborhoods on the hillsides who work at the public cemetery outside school hours to help provide for their family, and school children and teachers from the isolated highlands. I tasted the traditional food and drinks of Peru: chicha, cuy, quinoa soup, chicha morada, and pisco sour. I was invited into a family’s home, and was able to talk with locals about the issues that matter to them: their work, their families, and their politics.

I was able to do all this because I was traveling with Vantage Adventures. Vantage is an established luxury small group travel company known for its European river cruises and five-star travel experiences, and in their new division of Vantage Adventures, they’re adding active, outdoor and adventure elements while retaining the type of rich cultural interactions I described above. I’ve traveled with several small group tour companies in places ranging from Alaska to the Dominican Republic, and none have offered the depth of immersion into a country as Vantage (though some have come close).

The Vantage Difference:

So how does Vantage do all this? There’s a magical ingredient in Vantage Adventures’ itineraries I’m going to call the Vantage Difference. In our itinerary of Peru, our Vantage Adventure Leader (head guide) Enrique went one step deeper into every stop.

When we were at Machu Picchu, he knew the history and archeological facts as well or better than any guide in the country. In Cusco (his hometown), he could show us the shops, restaurants, and ‘secret’ alleyways and side streets no one could have found on their own.

While touring the city’s impressive cathedrals, he shared the story of his own family’s Catholicism as it related to his Andean heritage. When sampling local foods and drinks, he gave anecdotes about his own childhood memories of these foods, tying the life of a Peruvian to the tastes and textures. He peppered every sight with a layer of history and culture, so that we came away with an understanding of not just the ancient Incan history, but of current day Incan values, considerations, and current events.

Traveling with Vantage Adventures is like traveling with a local…because you are.

Need an example? I have dozens, but here’s one that stands out: after touring a weaving cooperative in the Sacred Valley, we stopped at a local chicha shop near Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. Enrique translated the local chicha maker’s explanation of how to make this fermented corn drink, and we sampled it…all part of our tour. But afterward, he took us out to the courtyard behind the shop where he taught us to play a traditional Peruvian bar game (you toss weighted coins at a frog’s mouth for points…an equivalent to playing darts in a bar in the States).

While we played the game, he related his memory of playing ‘frog’ with his father and grandfather, and overhearing them discuss the dangers of the cocaine industry regime in Peru of that time. A few days later, Enrique told us, his grandfather had been shot and killed by the terrorists; his father—a policeman—was forced to withdraw into his home for his safety not long after.

Hearing this story while drinking this Peruvian drink and playing the game so many locals have enjoyed for centuries not only helped us to know Enrique better…it helped us connect present-day Peru to the past, and enabled us to better understand what Peruvians want for their future. This is an experience I could not have manufactured on my own, no matter how many guidebooks I read or sights I saw.

Vantage peace of mind:

The day we flew into Peru, the rural towns outside the city of Cusco began a farmers’ strike. Apparently somewhat common, this strike blocked off the roads leading from Cusco to the Sacred Valley. As a result, our entire itinerary had to be changed around on the fly. Vantage took this development in stride, re-structuring our itinerary in a way that felt seamless (but I know took a lot of organization on their part). Once the strike had officially ended, we took one of the roads in question to head to Machu Picchu. Unexpectedly, a rowdy group of lingering strikers ambushed our bus on the narrow road, throwing rocks and yelling. They’d blockaded the road with stones and rubble. Our guides and bus driver quickly accessed the situation, spoke to locals, and drove us swiftly to safety. We went to Plan C (remember, we were already on Plan B) to find an alternative route, then to Plan D when that plan was rendered useless as well by additional blockades. In the end, they got us to our destination by accessing local dirt roads over the Andes. After a somewhat harrowing (but totally exciting) ride over the mountains, we arrived at our luxury hotel, ready for Machu Picchu. While countless other tourists were stranded in Cusco, we enjoyed a day without crowds.

If I had been traveling without Vantage, there’s no way I would have known of alternative routes past the blockades. I would have been stuck outside of the Sacred Valley along with most other tourists. In that moment, I realized that while safe and friendly, Peru is a country of some unknowns, best explored with a local guide who can navigate.

Vantage Cares:

Peru has endured many dictatorships and terrorist regimes, and is a relatively new country to democracy. As a result, it is still a developing country in many ways. Tourism is a primary industry, and while tourist dollars alone assist Peru significantly, I was happy to hear about Vantage Cares. This program, in place on all Vantage Adventures, donates funds as well as on-the-ground assistance to worthy causes in each country Vantage visits.

In Peru, Vantage Cares sponsors a rural school about 50 minutes from Cusco. Vantage works directly with school administers to understand the needs of the school, then creates projects our local adventure guides can particulate in. We visited the school, which had just gotten a fresh coat of paint. The teachers and parents cooked us a big welcoming meal, and the students swarmed us, excited to see foreigners. They performed songs and showed us their favorite playground games, and we toured their classrooms. This visit was a true highlight of my trip.

Thanks to my education of Peruvian culture and events from Enrique and my on-site visit for Vantage Cares, I came away from Peru with a far richer understanding and connection than I would have otherwise.

How to visit Peru with Vantage:

I recommend a trip to Peru for any active family with school-aged or teen kids. It’s a country filled with diverse landscapes, outdoor adventure, rich culture, and lively cities. Select a trip to get started. Before you depart, be sure to check out our tips for travel in Peru.

As I disclose whenever applicable, I went to Peru on a familiarization tour with Vantage for the purpose of review. Without these fact-finding missions, I would not be able to recommend travel options to my readers.