UK and Europe - Pitstops for Kids

Lisbon with kids: What to do and where to stay in Portugal with the family

May 12, 2022 By Amy Hagstrom

Lisbon Portugal is a city of friendly people, colorful cobbled streets, breathtaking overlooks and fresh, delicious cuisine. There’s a castle, a marina, trolley cars and tuk tuks, dining can be casual and affordable and children are welcomed almost everywhere. In other words, Lisbon with kids is a no-brainer. It’s the perfect kid-friendly European city. Here’s how to spend 2-3 days in the City of Seven Hills.

Getting your bearings in Lisbon with kids:

Often compared to San Francisco, California for its hilly city streets, strikingly similar bay bridge and trolley (cable) cars, Lisbon doesn’t seem to have just one central district or downtown. Rather, several neighborhoods make for a good home base, within walking distance of many attractions. From the Chiado neighborhood, the historic Alfama neighborhood or the Bairro Alto neighborhood, you’ll be central to most sights.

Taking a tuk tuk tour through Lisbon’s winding, narrow streets can be a great way to get your bearings and have fun doing it. A good hotel concierge can reserve a tuk tuk tour for your family, or you can simply head to any attraction or square in the city and easily find one for hire. Most tuk tuk drivers act as tour guides, pointing out landmarks along the way, or families can request for tours of particular neighborhoods. Prices seem to be negotiable but for most, you’ll need cash (Euros). Opt for a tuk tuk marked ‘eco’ to reduce your carbon footprint as you tour. (Most can fit up to six people.)

If you’d rather explore on foot, head of one of the city’s many scenic overlooks to get the lay of the land. The easiest way to find one: simply start walking uphill, and look for the wide pedestrian-friendly squares at the tops of the hills. Our favorites overlooked the Castelo de San Jorge (more on that in a minute) at the top of Chiado, and the Tagus River at the top of the Alfamo neighborhood. Expect each overlook to present perfect photo opportunities, and some to have stall-style food vendors and even artisan marketplaces.

What not to miss in Lisbon with kids:

Castelo de São Jorge:

Kids and castles tend to go nicely together. Since your kids will spot this one from most overlooks, they’ll want to go sooner rather than later. And it’s easy to do so: Lisbon’s castle is an archaeological site with the ruins of the former Alcáçova palace on the grounds, and again, you can find great views of Lisbon here. Leave time to play in the gardens too, especially on a hot day…the shade will be welcome.

Elevator de Saint Justa:

Not to be confused with the da Gloria or do Lavra elevators (which are steep trolley car routes), this historic elevator located in the Chiado district at Rossio square is exactly that….a vertical elevator by which to observe the city. The line can get long to buy tickets and enter, so if you don’t feel like waiting, just walk up the stairs to view the elevator from the various sides (it’s an impressive, ornate structure) and then explore the high-end stores and souvenir shops in the immediate vicinity.

Trolley 28 tour:

A trolley is a main form of transportation in Lisbon, and you’ll see trolley tracks criss-crossing most city streets. The trolley system is part of the local metro/public transit system, and multi-day tickets can be purchased for all the busses, trolleys and metro. However, if you just want to try the trolley for fun, you can use Trolley 28 as a hop-on, hop-off tour opportunity. One ticket gets you unlimited on and off privileges during the day. Think of Lisbon’s Trolley 28 like San Francisco’s cable cars…as much an attraction as a means of transport.

Parque das Naçoes:

This ultra-modern site of the 1998 World Exposition is a nice place to relax with kids after city exploration. You’ll find the Oceanario de Lisboa here, as well as plenty of open space for play. If you want another activity, the Telecabine Lisboa (cable car) is located here, which runs above the river at Parque das Nacoes to offer a panorama of the whole Nation’s Park area.

Belém:

Located along the water just west of the city center (about a ten minute or 15 Euro cab or Uber ride), Belém serves as the museum capital of Lisbon. The highlight is the Jerónimos Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an example of Manueline architecture, but if you ask kids, the real highlight is probably Pastêis de Belém, the original seller of Lisbon’s most delicious custard tart treat. The line can look imposing at the shop, but there are both indoor and outdoor seating/ordering counters, and even a long line tends to take less than 15 minutes. Next to the monastery is Lisbon’s museum of archeology, worth a visit in its own right. However, if the line is long to enter the monastery (when we visited during Europe’s spring break period, it stretched hours long), get in the much shorter line at the museum instead. You can buy tickets for just the monastery or combined tickets inside (this line was only 30 minutes). Inside the monastery, you’ll find a few exhibits, but mostly, it’s an opportunity to stroll through the beautiful grounds (well worth doing). At the time of our visit, combined tickets were 12 Euro per adult.

Time Out Market:

Also known as the Mercado da Ribeira, Time Out Market is housed in a beautiful historic building near the water at the edge of the Cais do Sodré neighborhood and Chiado neighborhood. Right behind it, you’ll find the famous Pink Street (which is worth a quick look in the daytime but is somewhat seedy at night…think strip clubs and dive bars). The Time Out Market, however, is one of the city’s main food courts that holds everything from traditional meals to trendy treats and bakeries. Communal tables line the middle, and bottles of wine can be purchased at some stalls to share with the family (or new friends). Kids will find just about any type of food on offer here, from traditional Portuguese cuisine to soups and sandwiches. Pasteis de Nata sells Lisbon’s favorite pastry here, and while it’s not the original shop, we actually found their pastries superior to those in Belém.

Tip: Consider the Lisbon pass if you think you’ll be visiting most attractions in the city, as you’ll save money and gain some transportation options on the metro as well. We found getting around by foot or Uber easiest, but the Lisbon Pass can pay for itself for the ticket entries alone.

Sintra:

If you have time to explore this medieval town outside of the city, go! It was a highlight of the trip for many. From central Lisbon, it’s easy to get to Sintra by train (head to the main train terminal by Rossio), then by Uber or taxi. Plan to spend most of the day here, and it really helps to have a guide (your hotel’s front desk or concierge can arrange this, or you can book ahead of time). The narrow, winding streets are fun to explore, and kids love the crazy caves, grottos and underground walkways located within a large garden, Quinta da Regaleira. Read a full article on Sintra.

Alfama:

This Lisbon neighborhood is the oldest in the city, and worth exploring as a destination in its own right. Start at the Museum de Fado on the waterfront, and take any of the narrow, twisting roads uphill. You’ll discover tucked away shops, cafes and souvenir stores, as well as cathedrals and overlooks. Stop for a cold drink (a pitcher of sangria is always a good idea for the grown-ups) and take your time. You’ll be stopping often to take photos.

Tip: Have time for a date night? Head to Bairro Alto, the hilly Bohemian neighborhood walkable from the Chiado area. The young, hip scene here is decidedly trendy but very accessible. You’ll find any number of wine bars and rooftop bars (we recommend Park Bar, located at the top of a parking garage with excellent patio views) and dining options ranging from street food to upscale restaurants. If you want to listen to fado (traditional Portuguese guitar music), Laia Fado in Bairro Alto requires reservations and will be a late night out (starts around 9 pm and was still going strong when we left at midnight) but has no cover charge (but a minimum 50 Euro order per customer).

Additional fado bars and restaurants with earlier music offerings can be found all over the Alfama; we saw some with 7:30 pm start times. In Chiado, By the Wine offers excellent ambiance and an impressive wine selection (though you won’t be left wanting a most Lisbon wine bars). Nearby, Mesón Andaluz Restaurant and Tapas offers an equally lovely atmosphere for a nice evening out.

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Exploring the Acropolis area of Athens

October 5, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Likely at the top of your must-do list for Athens, the Acropolis isn’t just one stop. Make a day of it by getting a thorough tour of the entire Acropolis area, dedicating your morning to the museum and your afternoon to the outdoor sites. Here’s how to go about your day at the Acropolis area of Athens:

Acropolis Museum:

The Acropolis Museum is where you’ll learn what, exactly, you’re about to see and why it matters. We suggest doing it first, even though the outdoor sites are likely to be cooler in the morning, because of the cruise ship schedule: try to walk around the ruins of the Acropolis in the morning and you’re likely to find yourself in long entry lines.

The museum makes a great first impression: you’ll walk right over impressive ruins, once upon a time a neighborhood of baths, markets and houses under modern-day Athens. They’re now under glass, so you walk right over archeological sites that date back to the fifth century BC. After entering the museum, the first collection in the wide glass-floored gallery displays artifacts from the slopes of the Acropolis. Basically, you’re going to see the things that used to be on the hill, in the Parthenon. In antiquity, the slopes of the Sacred Rock was the transition zone between the city and its most famous sanctuary, where large and small sanctuaries existed alongside private houses. Yes, there were private residences that close to the impressive Acropolis.

Definitely make a stop in the Parthenon Gallery on the third floor for the video presentation about the Parthenon. This will give kids, especially, better background before they ascend the slope.

Acropolis:

Time to see the actual Acropolis! At this UNESCO site, you’ll see arguably the greatest architectural endeavors of Greek Antiquity. A tiny bit of background: in the second half of the fifth century BC, thought and art flourished in Athens, and artists, under the inspired guidance of the sculptor Pheidias and the help of a lot of slaves, no doubt, transformed the rocky hill into a unique monument to the arts. We suggest seeing this sprawling hillside with a guide, but if you go it solo, get an audio guide, at very least. There’s a lot to see, and not too many signs or markers to help you out.

Give yourself at least two hours to ascend the hill, walk around the top to see the structures dedicated to Athena and Nike (among others) from every angle, then back down, stopping to see a few of the lesser buildings.

The Hills of the Muses:

Next, go back to the cobbled pedestrian walkway at the base of the Acropolis and ascend a lesser hill, leading to the Hills of the Muses Philopappos, Pnyx, and Nymphs. This archeological site has over a dozen points of interest, including the old gate to the city and the site of the birth of democracy, where citizens first embraced this style of government (minus, of course women and slaves, who continued to have no rights or voice). Don’t miss the ‘prison of Socrates’, incorrectly named; it was not a prison at all, but rather the hiding place for many Greek antiquities during the second world war. Even under torture, the Greeks did not reveal where they’d hidden the treasures that are now enjoyed by the world in museums.

You’ll also see some of the best views of the Acropolis and the surrounding city from these hills, and there are outcroppings of rocks and interesting terrain for kids to explore. Even on a crowded day, you can feel quite away from the crowds in this section, and it’s well shaded in many areas.

Athens public markets:

There are three Agoras in downtown Athens. We visited the Ancient Agora where the Thission building is, below the Acropolis and the hill of Areospagos. It’s an easy exit point after doing the hill area described above. You’ll find a lively flea market just past the ruins of the Agora, and the narrow streets here are fun to poke around in. (Just be on alert for pickpockets.) You can also find quite a few dining options in this part of town with inviting sidewalk seating and shaded patios. Alternatively, you can head to the Athens Dimotiki Agora (Public Market) for meat, seafood and produce, as well as nuts and seed and dried fruits.

Bonus: after visiting the Acropolis area, learn more about the daily lives of ancient Athenians at the Museum of Cycladic Art. While it’s known for its Cycladic collection, of course, the entire fourth floor is devoted to day-to-day Greek antiquity. The exhibit is designed to let you follow the life of an Athenian male from birth until death, with panels and artifacts depicting an ancient Athenian wedding, school and social life, funeral, and more. The short film recreating the Athenian’s life is well worth watching (it’s about 10 minutes long).

GENERAL TIPS:

We found Athenians to be a friendly, welcoming people, and everyone we interacted with had a smile for us. There is a metro system throughout the city, but we took taxi cabs exclusively, which proved to be plentiful and quite quick. There is no separate Uber/Lyft system in Athens, but the Uber app will work, connecting you to city cabs so you can forgo using cash. If you opt to use the metered cabs instead, just know that they only take cash. We never felt cheated by a cab driver during our stay.
If you like strong coffee, try the Greek coffee treat known as a frappe or ‘nescafe’, available everywhere hot or iced. They’re a rich, frothy brew, in a size more in-line with an American coffee to go, as opposed to a espresso.
The Greek language is tough, and no one will expect you to speak it, but knowing a few greetings can go a long way. The phonetic spelling for ‘hello’ is YAH-soo, and ‘good morning’ is kah-lee-MER-ah. Both ‘please’ and ‘thank you’ is para-kah-LOE.

Want tips on where to stay in Athens? We have our Athens hotel picks here.

Four day trips from Rome (with or without a car)

August 12, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

We’re in the midst of organizing our first family European trip, which is great fun. After all, your trip starts the minute you begin planning it! I’ve always loved Rome, so I know the Colosseum, Vatican, and lesser-known stops like the Mercato Testaccio will be on the itinerary. However, I also know my favorite way of experiencing the Eternal City (which consisted of multiple days of city touring and lots of pizza and wine) will need adjusting. This time around, we’ll eat just as much pizza, but will also head outside the city to see more of the Roman and Tuscan countryside. Below, read our top four Roman day trip picks, and how to get to them.

Sabine Hills (Sabina):

For a good dose of walled cities, medieval architecture, and quintessentially Italian rolling hillsides, head to Sabina. Olive trees dot the countryside, as do monasteries and Renaissance palaces. I’ve toured an olive oil production here, but I know my kids would rather poke around in the ancient walled villages of Toffia or Farfa, or hike along the worn trails of Monti Lucretili National Park.

Start in Fara Sabina, either by train or car. A direct train departs every 15 minutes from stations in Rome to Fara Sabina-Montelibretti Station. This will take about 45 minutes, and then families will need to transfer to bus to tour other villages. If you rent a car in Italy, you’ll have more freedom to explore. Take the Rome-Florence (A1) motorway to Fiano Romano exit, then follow signs to Rieti and Fara Sabina.

Appia Antica (Old Appian Way):

One of my favorite sights in Italy, and located just outside the city limits of Rome, Old Appian Way is an ancient, narrow road leading to the catacombs of the Eternal City. A visit outside the walls of Rome is really valuable for kids: they can visually learn exactly how the gates would open and shut, and see where the dead were once buried. Is it creepy? Sure! But not as much as I thought it would be. Definitely take a catacombs tour (most are lead on the hour in Italian and English, with other languages getting a few per day), then plan to stay for the afternoon picnicking in the pretty countryside along the road.

No need for a car for this day trip. Take bus 218 from San Giovanni Metro stop. Start with the biggest and most extensive catacombs, St. Callixtus. Families can see the crypt of nine popes here, and excellent examples of early Christian art. Buy tour tickets at the entrance. From here, it’s possible to walk along the road, but it’s very narrow (and walled), so when we go as a family, I plan to take the bus from stop to stop along Old Appian Way.

Tivoli:

To show kids what Renaissance villas really looked like, a day trip to Tivoli is a must. Only about 35 km from Rome, Tivoli is home to both Villa d’Este, located in the Piazza Trento, and Hadrian’s Villa. It’s easy to tour both via the bus system that connects them. Villas d’Este’s gardens utilize an innovative water irrigation system parents can point out to kids; there are 500 fountains alone. Families can take a tour through Viator, or visit on their own.

If you’re driving, it’s an easy commute from Rome via the S5 to Tivoli. There’s train service from Rome’s Tiburtina station as well.

Florence:

Yes, families can get to Florence and the greater Tuscany region as a day trip from Rome, though it will certainly take all day. Spend time perusing Italy’s finest collection of Renaissance art at Galleria degli Uffizi, but definitely buy tickets online in advance. Then give kids a break from museums and architecture by spending time at the Ponte Vecchio, Florence’s first bridge, and Campanile, the bell tower in Piazza del Duomo.

The fastest (but most expensive) way to get to Florence from Rome is on the fast train, then walking to the historic center, but we plan to drive a rental car, which is three hours up the A1.

This post was done in partnership with Enterprise Rent-a-Car but they had no input on the content. All opinions are my own.

Photo credit: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra, Larry.

Rome

The ultimate family road trip through Spain: coast, city, and country

August 10, 2021 By Sharlene Earnshaw

Guest post written by Katie Belle.

Road trips and relaxation may seem like an oxymoron when travelling with kids. But, in fact, our two were so caught up with the sense of adventure, there wasn’t even one cry of ‘Are we nearly there yet?’. From the arid hills of Andalusia to the ultra-safe waters of La Manga, and vibrant Valencia to the mild green province of Girona, our brood covered just over 1200km. But not once did the journey seem laborious. Here’s a road map of our itinerary, easily duplicated!

Day 1-2: Andalusia

Malaga is the perfect starting point for a Spanish road trip as the airport offers plenty of international connections and has a range of car rental companies on site. All the hot spots of the Costa del Sol are within easy striking distance.

We head off for a little r and r in the rolling Andalusian hills. The villages of the Axarquia region are without doubt some of the most picturesque in all of Spain and our first stop is a sugarcube-esque villa just outside Comares. Our little ones are happy splashing about in the pool, which overlooks mile upon mile of orange groves and farmland. But, we do venture out to drive further up the Montes de Málaga foothills until we reach Comares itself.

Sitting atop a cliff some 725 metres above sea level, it’s not for those with a fear of heights. But the views are nothing short of spectacular, stretching down to Lake Vinuela and beyond. We hire donkeys for the children and follow the walking route of ceramic footprints which guide you around the narrow village streets.

But, no visit to the Costa del Sol would be complete without sampling some of this region’s bustling beachlife, so we’re soon back on the open road, heading down to the Mediterranean coastline to Nerja. It’s often referred to as the jewel of the Costa del Sol, and we can see why. The promenade is lined with cafés and restaurants, with musicians and mime artists keeping families, taking early evening strolls, entertained.

Day 3: La Manga

From Nerja, it’s a straightforward journey along the A7, which skirts the coastline, to our next destination, La Manga. After a week with only parental company, our kids are longing for other children to play with, so this is the perfect stop-off.

With a myriad of swimming pools to choose from, we opt for the complex at Los Molinos (the windmill), where the toddler pool is safe enough for our little boy and the bigger pool is challenging enough for our elder daughter. There are restaurants a plenty in the resort, but our favourite is the tapas bar in Bellaluz Square, where our daughter discovers a penchant for Spanish meatballs.

My last night is spent horse riding with my daughter on a trek from the on-site stables at La Manga through fields and down to the beach. We can’t ride on the beach in the summer season, but you can in winter so we’re determined to come back. We meet up with my other half and our youngest for a meal at La Canela, in a laid-back setting next to the riding centre. As dusk fell, the candles were lit and our prawns with garlic sauce, accompanied by a chilled bottle of white wine arrived. The children were able to run around beside the stables in safety. It truly was a magical evening.

Day 4: Valencia

Our shortest visit during our road trip to Spain was to Valencia, Spain’s third largest city. But, while it was short, it was certainly sweet, with impressive family friendly attractions. The Bioparc Valencia is the best zoo any of us have ever visited, with enclosures which faithfully recreate African habitats but allow visitors to get as close as can be to the animals. We walk within touching distance of the Madagascan lemurs – although there is a park warden there to make sure you don’t – before lunching in full view of the zoo’s resident giraffes.

The city’s Aquarium, the L’Oceanográfic, is no less impressive – on a par only with Cape Town’s Two Oceans. The biggest aquarium in Europe, it is home to 500 species from the world’s main marine ecosystems, with a dolphinarium containing a staggering 24 million litres of water.

Day 5: Girona

From city to country, our road trip is almost at an end, as we’re dropping our hire car off in Girona airport. But we’ve just time to squeeze in a few days at one of the country retreats surrounding Girona’s centre. With a grown-up vibe, there’s also a playground and mini-farm to keep our little ones happy. And, we can think of no better end to our journey as we enjoy Catalan specialities overlooking the swimming pool and the farmland beyond as the sun sets on our Spanish road trip.

Image credit: Bart & Co and elyob

Guest author Katie, a food and travel blogger from the UK, took her family on a road trip through Spain last year and is currently planning this year’s adventure. You can connect with her on twitter @delightsomeblog.

River cruise vacation: What to expect on a Vantage Travel river cruise

July 15, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

You only unpack once. You never have to plan, drive, or navigate in a foreign country. You wake up in a new city each day. All your meals are inclusive.

If this sounds like a dream, you haven’t tried a European river cruise! Whether you embark on a river cruise as a couples’ getaway (highly recommended!) or with older kids or teens, we have a full review of what you can expect on a VantageTravel.com river cruise vacation.

Vantage Travel river cruise vacation: what to expect onboard and off!

I recently experienced Vantage Travel’s Heart of Germany trip, which was eight days of luxury travel on the River Splendor. This ship sleeps 176 passengers, and felt cozy but not crowded during my sailing with approximately 110 passengers on board. We flew into Frankfurt, Germany and flew out of Munich, Germany, exploring seven ports through Bavaria along the journey.

The River Splendor navigated three rivers during our trip: the Rhine, Main, and Danube, and each day, we either docked directly in each town, able to walk off the ship and into a storybook village, or within a 1-1.5 hour bus ride from our day’s destination. Obviously, I preferred the former, but during approximately half the trip, the latter proved necessary.

We embarked in Mainz, Germany, and quickly settled into a comfortable routine: each evening before dinner, our capable cruise director, Renata Lovrovic, would brief us on the following day’s planned itinerary, which we could opt into or out of. (Should you wish to explore the port of call on your own, ship departure times were clearly announced.) Cocktail hour would follow in the lounge, with the evening capped by a four-course dinner. While the menu is upscale American with only a few local specialties, basic dishes and a healthy option are always available, such as grilled chicken or salmon. Breakfast is also a buffet, and an early riser’s breakfast allows even greater flexibility. By the time we retired to our stateroom each evening, a full written itinerary for the following day awaited us on our pillows.

Deluxe stateroom, photo courtesy of Erika Balbier

Throughout the cruise, we also had full access to a concierge, a massage therapist, and a 24-hour reception desk. Our bottom deck stateroom was decidedly cozy, but we had all the space we needed with impressive storage solutions for our luggage and clothes. (Staterooms sleep two, so families would need to upgrade to a suite or book two or more rooms.) The bathroom was downright roomy, and while I had worried that our two small windows wouldn’t let in enough light, we found the space to never feel gloomy. Nor did we ever feel seasick on the gentle Rhine, Main, and Danube rivers.

Our journey took us from Mainz to Regensburg. Each convergence of the rivers brought new ports and vistas, new foods to try, and new local city experts to guide us. Cultural activities on-board, such as German language lessons, cooking classes, and lectures were on offer almost daily, though we often ran out of time to enjoy them all.

Dining each evening is open seating, so we met new friends on-board who brightened our evening social life, often lingering over wine or aperitifs after our plates were cleared. Housekeeping is twice daily plus a turndown service, and each server in the dining room and lounge was courteous and well-trained.

What Vantage offers families who want to combine luxury with relaxation:

While the typical clientele of a Vantage river cruise skews older, families and grandparents with older kids and teens will find plenty to keep busy and engaged. Excursions off the ship occur every single day, and as stated above, parents and grandparents can opt-out with their kids at will, but trust me, you’ll want to stick around to learn with the group on most occasions.

Teens tend to congregate in the Captain’s Club, the window-filled space at the stern where meals are served buffet style (and alfresco in nice weather). Vantage crew members put out games and electronics in this space when kids are on-board, and the complimentary espresso machine serves up hot chocolate and coffee drinks at any time of day.

Free WiFi is offered the ship throughout the cruise, and while I brought a hot spot to ensure connectivity for work, I never needed it onboard the River Splendor. Connection was swift and reliable, so teens can stay connected via text, email and WhatsApp with family at home, friends, and new friends they meet on the cruise.

The library adjacent to the lounge houses cards, board games and books, making for a nice retreat, and the sundeck at the top level is perfect for active teens who want to make use of the small track in nice weather (though there’s also a small exercise room onboard). Complimentary bike use is available in most ports (and the bikes sail along with you on the deck of the River Splendor).

While river cruising is known to be relaxing (think lazy afternoons spotting castles while enjoying high tea and navigating locks while enjoying a glass of wine), VantageTravel.com focuses on the cultural connection just as ardently. Every single day brought a different walking tour, cathedral or castle visit, and opportunity for local dining and shopping.

What’s included in the river cruise vacation cost:

Nearly everything! Here’s what’s included:

Almost all excursions, all city guides and regional experts.
All bus transfers, including to and from the airport.
Almost every meal (only a couple meals in towns are not included)
House wine and beer (free-flowing) at every dinner.
Cocktail demonstration nightly.
WiFi onboard.
Bike and e-bike lending program.
24-hour access to coffee, espresso, and tea.
Museum entry and tour entry for all planned excursions.

What you’ll pay a la carte for:

Top-shelf wine and liquor at dinner, plus apres-dinner drinks.
Cocktails, wine and beer during cocktail hour in the lounge.
Add-on excursions (we never felt it necessary).

Tip: Bottled water is available for purchase at the bar in the lounge, but pitchers of drinking water is also available in the Captain’s Club and in the exercise room daily.

We loved that Vantage can book your airfare for you, and we highly advise going with this perk. It comes included with a pick-up right in the terminal, which is very welcome after a long journey, and Vantage did a great job finding us the best flight itineraries possible.

Before and during your trip, you also have access to a personal portal that allows you to view your itinerary, upgrade your cabin or tours, and check on details of your flights. We found Vantage to be highly organized and very responsive in the customer service department.

Our only wishes to add to the list for our river cruise vacation: we’d love to have had easier access to complimentary water onboard, would have liked more local cuisine at dinner, and would have welcomed smaller walking tour group sizes. Otherwise, we were happy cruise passengers for a blissful eight days!

Check out the stops we made during our Heart of Germany tour, in order to plan your own Bavarian vacation.

Disclosure: We experienced a Vantage Travel river cruise vacation as guests of Vantage, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Guide to family cruising in Croatia with kids

July 14, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Sailing holidays are perfect for families, where you can set your pace and plan your own schedule, especially if you have children on board as well. Moreover, you stay together like a well-knit group in your floating home as you sail off the stunning Croàtian coastline. Check out this handy guide for a multi-activity family cruise in Croatia.

A guide to family cruising in Croatia with the kids!

Best time to sail

The best time to go sailing in Croatia is between April and September. The periods of calm prevail in July and August, which makes it ideal for those sailing with children as the waters are smooth. The weather is perfect for swimming, water sports or simply relaxing on the deck with the family.

Age restrictions

Sailing companies in Croatia usually have a lower age limit of four years for sailing trips with children. There are some flotillas you can book that have no restrictions at all, though in some cases you have to carry life jackets for your children who are under four years. To operate the dinghy the minimum age is 16 years, and no one below 16 is to be left without supervision at all times.

Choice of vessel

There are four different types of vessels you can opt for, but you will need to match one with your requirements.

Sailboats: They are slow, so charter one if you have a lot of stops to make and plenty of time to spare.
Catamarans: If you are looking for plenty of space and stability then catamarans are the best choice for large groups and especially those with children.
Motor Yacht: A skippered motor yacht is a good choice if you are short on time and wish to explore as much of Croatia as possible.
Gulets: With huge open decks and short sailing hours limited to 3-4 a day, this is another exciting option if you are sailing with children.

Onboard amenities

Your sailing vessel should have a nice salon with TV
The chef should be flexible enough in meal preparation for children
Believe it or not but most children would rather have pizza or pasta than shrimp.
Crew should be kid friendly and willing to keep an eye on the kids should you decide to wander into town for a glass of wine.

Packing advice

It is hard to imagine that you will need anything more than a swimsuit as you will be spending most of the cruise time over water. However, there are umpteen places onshore for which you will have to be prepared. So remember to pack these essentials on your family sailing holiday across the Adriatic:

Swimwear
A jacket
Games for children
An inflatable
Sunscreen and moisturizer.
Travel towel
Waterproof camera
A small daypack
Rash vest
Medication
Insect repellent

Safety

Cruise ships in Croatia are known for their safety and adhering to the rigid maritime laws of the country. So you have nothing to worry about on a family cruise apart from sitting back, relaxing and enjoying the views and the experience with the ones you love the most.

Guide to visiting Iceland in the winter with kids

February 16, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve been hearing the word ‘Iceland’ related to ‘family travel’ for a few years now. Families can have a great adventure in Iceland during the warm months (in fact, stay tuned for a guide to camping in Iceland with kids), but many people are still reluctant to try visiting Iceland in the winter with kids. It’s a great time to visit, and if you read on, I’m going to guide you through your worries and reservations so you can take advantage of visiting during this time of year.

Advantages to visiting Iceland in the winter with kids:

Fewer crowds
Cheaper
Better chance of seeing Northern Lights
Museums and sights are open year round
The hot spots/tubs/pools are a big hit in the colder weather!

Why take kids to Iceland?

Iceland is very kid-friendly with lots of museums, exhibits and sights that kids would enjoy.
If your kids enjoy swimming, they will love visiting the many, many hot spots Iceland has to offer.
Icelandic tradition is steeped in elves and trolls, making it a fun fantasy land for kids with active imaginations.
It’s a great introduction to international travel because everyone speaks English as well as Icelandic, they drive on the right hand side of the road, and the money is in Icelandic kroners but easy to figure out. Just international enough to make it exciting!

Our concerns about winter travel with kids in Iceland:

Shortened daylight hours—We visited in early January when the sunrise was at 11:30 and sunset was 3:30. But it actually gets light around 10:30 and doesn’t get dark until 4:30. Keeping the kids on east coast time, they went to bed late and slept in late, so it worked out fine. (See ”daily schedule” below.)
Weather—No matter what time of year you visit Iceland, you have to be conscious of changes in the weather and adapt your plans accordingly. The days were around 40 degrees with very little change at night. It snowed lightly some days, but nothing that made travel difficult. On a few occasions, the wind made being outside too cold. All in all, being used to cold winter weather, as long as the kids were dressed appropriately (and adults!), we were fine. (See “clothing” below.)

What to see and do along the Golden Circle:

We started out by staying in Laugarvatn, along the Golden Circle about two hours from the airport in Keflavik. We stayed at Efstidalur II, a working cattle ranch. This farm hotel is in an excellent location to explore all the sights of the Golden Circle. They serve breakfast and dinner (not included in $140 room rate for a double) and have a wonderful ice cream parlor downstairs.

From this hotel, we could easily access Geysir, home of the famous Geysir and Stokkur geysers. This is a short walk along a path. It is a bit touristy, but a must. There is a café, restaurant and gift shop. It’s also close to Gulfoss, home of Iceland’s most famous double waterfall, Golden Falls. This can be reached by walking along a path along the top of the ridge as well as down to the bottom of the falls. This location is not to be missed.

Pingvellir National Park is Iceland’s most important historical site where the Vikings established the first democratic parliament. It is also where the North American and Eurasian techtonic plates meet causing a huge fissure. There are many paths into the park from several parking areas. You can visit amazing waterfalls as well as walk along the giant fissure to a visitor center. Near Pingvellir is Fakasel Icelandic Horse Park. We did not go here, but it was recommended to us by locals. You can take a barn tour and see an evening show.

Hot springs to visit in the Golden Circle area:

Gamia Laugin (Secret Lagoon) in Fludir. This was wonderful. Bus tours visit here, so you need to come either before 3:30 or after 5:30. You can email them and request a time that is not during their tour hours to guarantee you get in. This pool is in beautiful rustic outdoor setting but with modern shower facilities and towel rentals. Kids loved floating around on the noodles provided and diving down for smooth stones along the bottom. Water was almost too hot for the kids for very long.

Fontano geothermal pool in Laugarvatn. This is a more modern facility with several man-made pools, hot tubs and shallow wading pools. It is also next to a lake you can go into (cold!) and then return to a hot pool. Kids loved this one too because they could play in the shallow water and not get so hot!

What we saw along the Ring Road south of Reykjavik:

Just beyond Selfoss, the Ring Road becomes very interesting with lots of green houses and Icelandic horses. After Hella there is flood zone that was covered in muddy lava fromt ohe 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajokull.

Seljalandsfoss waterfalls—this is a roadside pull out with paths (icy!) to several impressive waterfalls. There were restrooms but no food service. Lots of jagged cave entrances and rock outcroppings.
Skogafoss waterfall—another road side stop with a path to the top of a huge waterfall. There is a restaurant here.
Just beyond this in Skogar is the Skogar Folk Museum that we did not have time for, but sounded like it would be fun for kids.
We did not make it as far as Vik, but would have liked to have seen its beach.

Reykjavik and the Blue Lagoon:

There’s so much to do in this part of Iceland in winter! Start with the Blue Lagoon: since this is the most famous of all the geothermal pools in Iceland, we had to visit! You need to make and pay for reservations in advance on line. You sign up for a day and time. We almost missed our time, but it would have been okay if we were a little late. This is pricey and very touristy, but it is also pretty amazing. It’s a huge lake, basically, with swim up bars. It gets quite deep and kids have to wear water wings, no matter what their swimming ability, to go out into the deeper water. Our kids did NOT like this rule at all and I wish I had been able to prepare them for it. There is a snack bar but other than a really fancy restaurant, no regular café-type food.

There is a lot to see and do with kids in Reykjavik in the winter. If you are staying in the city center or old town, it is easy to walk everywhere. When booking your accommodations, make sure you are not on a busy street. The bars and pubs stay open all hours and are noisy at night Book a walking tour. We booked a walking tour with “Your Friend in Reykjavik”. Read about them on line or on TripAdvisor. It was just the six of us and our tour guide adapted the tour so the kids would have fun as well. On their recommendation, we booked it on a Saturday so we could visit the Saturday Flea Market. It was a two-hour tour through Old Town, the harbor, the city center, flea market and the town lake, Tjornin, where we fed ducks. This family run company was also very helpful before we even got to Iceland, with lots of insider recommendations and suggestions. Here are a few Reykjavik highlights:

Saga Museum—This is a wax museum where you where a set a headphones and are guided through the museum listening to Viking history. It is a bit graphic and our 6 year old wasn’t crazy about it, but it was fun for the rest of us. It has a kid play area where you can dress up. It is in the harbor area. The museum has a fancy restaurant, but there are several cafes long the harbor.

Settlement Exhibition—This museum is built around the excavation of an ancient Viking long house. It is underground and has lots of very cool computer generated effects. There is also a really nice kids area with dress up, games, coloring sheets and a Viking set up. Highly recommended.

Hallgrimskirkja church elevator—take the elevator up to the top of this iconic church to get some great views.

Open Air Museum (Arbaer)—this was only open during the week for 2:00 tours, and our weather didn’t really cooperate but it would be a great place to take kids if it were nice outside.

National Museum—we did not take the kids to this, but it has very well organized displays and there were lots of kids in the museum. It has a separate head set program for kids.

The Laundromat Café—this is a great family restaurant with a downstairs play area for kids. We ate here four different times! It’s just minutes from Old Reykjavik along the main shopping street of Laugavegur.

Laugardalslaug swim complex—We had to drive to this, but it was only about 10 minutes. This is a huge complex that has several full size pools and a lot of smaller hot tubs around it. The kids loved it because it had a twisty slide you could go down.

Up next, packing advice and practical tips for visiting Iceland in winter with kids! Click on the button below to continue.

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Iceland camper van road trip tips

July 7, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Iceland has become a popular family vacation destination for many reasons: it is every bit as breathtakingly beautiful as it looks in photographs, there’s essentially no language barrier, it’s extremely family-friendly, and the outdoor recreation and sightseeing is almost endless.

What Iceland is not: cheap. Standard hotels can cost families as much as $400 per night on top of expensive rental car fees (especially if you need a 4×4 car for rough roads). Dining in Iceland is very expensive as well; fast food meals at a basic grill during the time of our 2017 trip were about $15 U.S. per person, and standard sit-down restaurant meals were closer to $45-50 per person. The solution: take an Iceland camper van road trip and combine your lodging and car rental cost and eliminate your restaurant dining out cost. Ready for Iceland camper van road trip tips? Let’s get started!

Start with your camper van rental:

The first stage of planning your Iceland road trip is booking your camper van rental. We used Kuku Campers, one of the largest camper van rental companies in Iceland. Kuku Campers offers just about every size and type of camper van, ranging from small vans that sleep 2-3 people to the larger style we rented, which sleeps five (both are Class C, which don’t require any additional training or know-how to drive). You can also opt between 2×2 or 4×4.

Kuku 2×2 category C camper

We picked this 2×2 van for five people (click on the link to see detailed interior photos) which cost approximately $1800 for nine days ($200 per night). This cost was significantly less than we’d spend on hotels and a rental car. Kuku Campers offers this van in standard (stick shift) or automatic. We opted for standard, as it was cheaper, and I am comfortable driving a stick shift.

Note: Do you need a 4×4 vehicle? If you’re a regular reader of Pit Stops for Kids, you know we’re a pretty adventurous family. We rented a 2×2 van, and were able to access everything we wanted, and more. You need a 4×4 vehicle only if you plan to drive F roads (Iceland’s most rugged dirt roads), which is needed if you plan to backpack or hike deep in the interior.

The features and configuration of our camper van:

In the front were two bucket seats (the driver’s seat and the front passenger seat). Behind those seats was the kitchen area: a countertop/food prep surface with sink and faucet, storage area for a portable stove/cook top, electric refrigerator (which runs when the car is running), dishes and kitchen utensils and silverware, a large water storage container, and a pantry area for food. Behind the kitchen was the main compartment of the van, which had a padded bench seat in a U shape, surrounded by a roomy kitchen table. Above this was a sleeping bunk. At night, the table and bench seat easily folded down to become a second sleeping area. The bottom slept three, and the top slept two. During the day, passengers could sit on the bench seat with seatbelt while the van was on the road.

Lots of space: to the front of this photo would be the kitchen area.

In addition to the running water, which ran from a hose from the water container to the kitchen sink, the van had two overhead lights and a nighttime heater (which could be run when the van was turned off). There is no bathroom in the van, but this isn’t a problem (we’ll get to that soon). We found sufficient storage in the van for our bags under the bench seats and at the very back of the van, in addition to smaller storage areas above the front seats and above the kitchen. Lastly, there were useful hooks to hold jackets and rain pants, as well as curtains to pull around the windows at night. These hung on elastic cords, which we used to hang additional items like wet towels and swimsuits.

But was the van hard to drive?

At first, a little bit, yes. I don’t ever drive anything larger than a minivan at home, so for me, it took a day to get comfortable driving something taller and wider. Icelandic roads are narrower than US roads, so there is definitely a learning curve. I also needed time to get used to backing up the van (though it was far easier than trying to back up a van with a trailer). By Day 2, I was quite comfortable. Overall, driving the van was no big deal, even on dirt and gravel roads, though the van certainly got dirty!

Stopping to make a snack and take photos on a gravel road. There are plenty of turn-outs to use!

The van took diesel fuel, which seemed to be easily available at every gas station, and it cost me about $160 to fill the tank. We drove for eight days, I filled up twice and topped off once, and I spent a total of $360 on gas. At all campgrounds and parking lots for trails, scenic overlooks, and historic sites, there was ample room to park the van. The only place I had trouble navigating parking was in downtown Reykjavik, and even there, I managed (but it was stressful).

Next plan your trip! Here’s what to expect:

I’m going to say something now that I never say on this site: don’t over-plan. If you allow your itinerary to stay flexible, you’ll be able to advantage of all the many moments of spontaneity possible in Iceland. There are natural wonders and historic sites every few kilometers at times; you can’t do it all, but you can decide what to do in the moment. We planned a general route which included the south, west, and east. We purposely didn’t travel the entire Ring Road because with only eight full days on the road, we wanted to spend more time on side roads than Route 1.

Waterfall at the base of one of our campsites.

I absolutely loved having our Kuku Camper, because of the freedom it offered. Every day, we traveled WITH our lodging and dining, so we never had to worry about getting to an exact place to eat or sleep each night. In Iceland, especially in the rural areas (which is most areas), we found that restaurants and shops closed relatively early in the day, even in the peak of summer. We were hard pressed to find dining options open after 6 pm, so we loved the ability to picnic our meals anytime, anyplace. We got into a routine of making breakfast in our camper at the campground in the morning, making a picnic or packed lunch to enjoy out and about, and then stopping at one of Iceland’s many, many scenic overlooks to BBQ or cook our dinner on the road. We arrived at each campground at night well-fed and ready to make camp. While we were driving, if someone was hungry, they could simply make a sandwich on the road, and if we decided at the last minute to detour to see or do something, we never had to care about missing reservations.

Iceland outdoor picnic!

The most unnatural thing to me, as a natural planner, was the fact that you do not need to make campground reservations. If you’ve tried to camp in popular campgrounds in the US in summer, you know this simply isn’t true at home. But in Iceland, they really do mean it when they say their campgrounds do not fill up. They really don’t. Not anywhere. Not ever.

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Italy with kids: Cinque Terre itinerary for families

January 9, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

On a trip to Italy with kids, you’re likely to devote a good deal of time to art and history in Florence and archeological ruins in Rome. Afterward, escape the intensity of the city with this three-day Cinque Terre itinerary for families.

Day One: Florence to Cinque Terre

We took a morning train from Florence to Lucca and spent several hours walking around this lovely walled city. It’s definitely worth the side trip. There is a baggage check place right across from the station where we left our bags. From there you can just walk into the town or rent a bike from the same place.

Then we took a train from Lucca to La Spezia (you can get one ticket that is Florence to La Spezia and just get off and on again) where you change trains for the towns of Cinque Terre. Be sure to get off at La Spezia Centrale station, not La Spezia Milgliarina.

In La Spezia, make sure you take a local train that stops in Riomaggiore (Genoa-La Spezia line). Check the train schedules because they don’t all stop at the little Cinque Terre towns.

We stayed 2 nights at Affittacamere Le Giare which I found through Trip Advisor and booked through Booking.com. Being off-season many places were closed. But this was a wonderful little apartment where our host was waiting for us and made dinner recommendations. We had time for a walk around the town using Rick Steves’ guide.

Note: you can also go from Milan to Cinque Terre.

Day Two: Village to village hiking

We awoke to rain but it cleared up by 9:00 and we found a café in town for breakfast. All the Cinque Terre villages cater to American tourists who come in droves in the summer so there are many cafes trying to serve American or English breakfasts.

You can go from village to village three different ways: by train, hike or by boat. Boats only run in season (and we visited in winter) and most of the train trip is through tunnels, obscuring views between village stops, so we opted to hike. The entire hike is approximately eight miles one-way, which is do-able with older kids and teens, when broken up into a leisurely day.

The first two sections of the hiking trail were closed: Riomaggiore to Manarola is only a 20-minute walk and has been closed for years; the second section, Manarola to Corniglia takes a little longer but is less scenic.

We took the train from Riomaggiore to Corniglia and started our hike from there. Finding the correct trail out of Corniglia toward Vernazza proved to be a bit of a challenge but after climbing a long set of switchback steps up to the town center, we found the red and white stripes on the stonewalls that serve as trail markers.

Tip: It’s a beautiful hike up out of Corniglia and you are able to look back at the village perched on the cliffs. Stunning!

The hike from Corniglia to Vernazza takes about an hour and a half but it is rocky, with some stone steps and somewhat hilly. You hike through vineyards and ravines. No one was on the trail when we were there, which made it pretty magical. In summer the crowds must really take away from the remote beauty, which is why we enjoyed an off-season visit. In another hour we came to Vernazza where we stopped for a delicious pizza lunch at a busy café right by the harbor.

Finding the continuing trail from Vernazza to Monterosso was easy. But the hike to Monterosso was the most difficult of all. It took us about an hour and a half with lots of ups and downs and muddy areas. But most of it is along cliffs with amazing views.

Monterosso is more of a resort town than the others. It is built on flat land and divided into two parts—the old and new. There are long stretches of beach and umbrella rentals, etc. It is also the only Cinque Terre village that is on a main train route. It was our least favorite.

To return to Riomaggiore, we took the train (they come about every hour, more often in summer) and rode it straight through from Monterosso to Riomaggiore. We were back in time to shower and rest up before a nice dinner by the harbor.

Day Three: Manarola back to Rome

We were headed back to Rome today for our morning flight out the next day, but before we left Riomaggiore we took the train to the second village that we could not hike to due to trail closures, Manarola. What a perfect morning outing! We found a little café for some pastries, but not much else was open. It was very quiet. Rick Steves’ walking guide took us up through the town and into the vineyards and graveyards with stone terraces.

We took the train back to Riomaggiore, got our bags and then took another train to La Spezia where we changed trains to get back to the Rome Termini.

In summary:

Visit Lucca coming or going to Cinque Terre
Walk as much of the trail as you can and what you can’t, go back to by train and visit the villages that way.
Don’t think you’ll have views on the train because you don’t.
Pick one village as a base because they are all so close together.
Go off-season. We were told April was the best.

How we planned our European trip on a budget

January 6, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

This winter, the Pit Stops for Kids crew will be heading to France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Italy. Our entire trip has been planned with budget in mind, by necessity! If your family, like ours, wants to plan a European trip on a budget, we have tips below!

We will travel in an off-season.

Yes, Paris in springtime is lovely, and Scandinavia in the summer is just about perfect. But airfare and lodging prices soar during peak time periods. Everyone knows that when on a budget, one of the easiest ways to save money is to travel in the off-season, but with kids in school and sports, we know this is easier said than done. Think outside the box: I was surprised to learn that if booked far enough in advance, the Christmas holiday season was very affordable, with cheaper airfare than in spring. We were able to book a trip that didn’t force the kids to miss any school days but still fell into a budget season period.

If you do book a winter holiday trip, go with the flow of the Christmas and New Years’ holidays, taking advantage of special events and offerings. Instead of lamenting that you won’t be able to have the exact same trip you’d have in June or July, look for festivals, religious ceremonies, and celebrations that are unique to this festive season. For instance, I was bummed we wouldn’t be hiking in the Dutch countryside during our December trip, until I realized we’d be able to experience Belgium’s famous Christmas markets.

We finalized our travel dates around the best airfare.

Instead of deciding on our exact travel dates, then finding airfare to work around them, we kept our departure dates loose and finalized them around the most affordable airfare. This allowed us to use calendar tools on airline websites to find the cheapest fare within a 3-4 day window, each way. For example, for the Alitalia flight we booked from San Francisco to Paris, the price was $200 less if we flew on a Thursday rather than a Friday. On our return, flying on New Year’s Day is significantly less than flying the day after. Read how to find the lowest airfare for any trip.

We booked apartments instead of hotel rooms.

Hotel rooms are hard to come by economically for a family of five in major European cities. Instead of trying to cram into a room or booking two rooms per night for our family, we are using HomeAway and AirBnB vacation rentals. We enjoy booking directly from locals, because they can often give us extra tips and hints for our city travels, recommend restaurants, and give us directions to grocery stores. We’ve never had any problems booking through the above sites. Here’s an example of our savings:

Paris mid-range hotel room that sleeps 3: $200/night ($2,000 total for two rooms for five nights)
Paris apartment rental that sleeps 5: $100/night ($550 total for five nights including taxes and fees)

We priced lodging, transportation, and tours a la carte.

It can be easier to book lodging and tours in one package from a number of tour operators, but we dislike large group tours and don’t want to stay in hotels that cater to large groups. Instead, we booked individual tours in both Rome and Paris. (We’ll be touring with Fat Tire Tours and Overome.) While this seems like an extravagance, it’s actually less costly because we’ve gotten our lodging for a good price, and we’ll have the benefit of touring in a much smaller group.

We opted for longer stays per location.

Instead of giving into the temptation of changing location every few days, which would bump our transportation and lodging costs considerably, we have opted to stay overnight in only three locations over 15 days. This gives us time to fully explore each area, and keeps our lodging costs as low as possible (five nights in an apartment rental is far cheaper than five separate nights in five different accommodations). We can also forgo Eurail type ticket packages in favor of one-time fares because we won’t be taking trains very often.

We price compared trains vs planes.

Once our transatlantic flight plans were set, we needed to figure out how we’d travel from city to city within Europe. Don’t assume train travel will be cheaper than airfare. For our travel from Paris to nearby Belgium, the train was our best option, but leaving Brussels, it was far cheaper to grab a flight on an economy airline to Rome than to take the train to nearby London, for instance. We are using EasyJet and RyanAir for our internal flights. These airlines are bare bones, but for short flights, we’re willing to make this sacrifice.

We’re not renting a car.

Car rental in Europe can get expensive, as it can anywhere. We will be buying prepaid metro tickets for each major city we’re visiting, and will be relying on bus and train schedules everywhere we go. Would driving a car be more efficient? Sure, but we’re happy to see the sights in a more leisurely manner via public transit for the tradeoff of not having to navigate roads. Be sure to budget for public transit, and note that if you have anything larger than a family of four, taxi cabs will not likely be economical. Note: the only exception to our public transit rule will upon our arrival in Paris. After a long transatlantic journey, we know we’ll be tired. I opted for a private town car to pick us up at the airport and deliver us to our apartment. This ‘luxury’ costs less than getting two taxi cabs. (We’re using Blacklane.)

We’re eating street food and shopping in grocery stores.

For us, having our own kitchen in each of our apartment rentals just makes more sense than eating every meal out. While we will certainly eat some meals in restaurants, we plan to enjoy the multicultural experience of shopping in local grocery stores and making our own meals. When we booked our apartments, we looked for rentals with grocery stores within walking distance. For lunches, when we’ll be out in cities exploring, we plan to buy foods at delis and stores for picnics and try street foods in cities.