UK and Europe - Pitstops for Kids

Exploring Rome with kids: Overome Colosseum tour review

March 21, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Touring Rome’s Colosseum and Forum is always in the top three attractions for families. This center of ancient Roman history is a must-do, but also big, crowded, and complex. We were very glad we opted to see the Colosseum and Forum with a small group tour. If Rome is in your family travel plans, read on for our Overome Colosseum tour review.

We chose to see the Colosseum with Overome based on recommendations from other travel writers. I’d heard Overome’s tour guides work hard to make the content of the tour relevant to kids, are reliable and timely, and are knowledgable. We were steered right, because our guide Federica was all this and more.

Overome Colosseum tour review:

Overome’s Colosseum and Ancient City Tour starts at the Colosseum metro station, directly under the shadow of the great arena. We met Federica (Feddie) here; she was easy to spot with her Overome sign. Our group consisted of only our family of seven, plus three other guests. After brief introductions, we were off…and by off, I mean just across the street to the arena.

Note: I highly recommend booking small group tours instead of large ones. We saw many large groups walking through the sites, and it didn’t look fun to be in a herd.

The Overome tour includes all entrance tickets and fees, so we didn’t have to wait in the imposing ticket line. We did, of course, have to wait in the security line, but although it snaked halfway around the base of the Colosseum on the day we visited, it took less than twenty minutes to get through. During that time, Federica (Feddie) gave us an overview of the structure and its history. While we patiently moved up in the line, we heard other tour guides getting agitated with the wait, and their guests getting impatient. I knew right then, only minutes into our three hour tour, that we were in good hands with Feddie.

Once in the Colosseum, Feddie took us slowly from level to level, explaining how the arena was built and by whom, its architecture and design, and its uses over the years of its history. Even though the complex was crowded, it was easy to hear what she was saying because we were given earbuds and radios.

Everyone knows at least a little about this colosseum of gladiators, emperors, and prisoners, but we learned quite a few new tidbits, especially about the many exotic animals who entertained and died there, as well as specific stories about certain victims of the games.

Feddie used illustrations on an iPad to help explain her points, which really helped us visualize what she was describing. By no means were we looking at the screen all the time, but it was definitely a useful tool. This tour doesn’t take visitors down to the bottom floor of the Colosseum, be we did spend time on the upper levels with views of the labyrinth of rooms and levers and one-time elevators that made the Colosseum function in its heyday. We actually wished we had more time in the Colosseum when it was time to move on to the Forum.

The Forum is the section of the ancient city center for which I most wanted (and needed) a guide. Without one, it’s an expanse of half-ruined buildings and rubble. Even with a guidebook in-hand, it’s not done justice without someone knowledgable to explain it. I know, because the first time I visited the Forum ten years ago, I did it on my own. I learned far more with Feddie.

We started at the far end, where she pointed out major landmarks in the Forum and showed us more images on her iPad to give us an idea of what it once was. After we could visualize it, we could see how the remains of marble and stone had once been grand buildings and streets. She explained what each structure had been used for, including the House and Temple of Vestrals, Arch of Titus, and the alter with Julius Caesar’s ashes. We learned about the multiple ‘layers’ of the Forum, and for the first time, I could really see how much of the area had been buried in mud and soil for centuries at a time.

We spent more than an hour in the Forum, which left us with little time for Palatine Hill. We were given an overview, however, and when Feddie left us, we were still inside the complex, so we were free to explore it more on our own. Instead, we were worn out and hungry by this time, so we asked her for a lunch recommendation in the area. After leaving Feddie, we happily dined on pizza at nearby Pizza Forum.

Our Overome tour definitely confirmed my suspicion that we needed an expert to fully experience this part of the city. And we couldn’t have been happier with Feddie; it was clear she likes her job and knows her stuff.

Cost:

The Overome Colosseum and Ancient City tour is $52 per person, and I believe the value is definitely there. At the time of our visit, we departed from the metro station at 9 am, and were done by 12 pm.

As I disclose whenever applicable, our tour with Overome was complimentary, for the purpose of review. Without this type of hospitality, we would not be able to write personalized and up-to-date reviews.

Why you should tour Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome with kids

March 18, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

While visiting Rome with kids, the time will come when you’ll face a full-on mutiny if you suggest even one more museum. This is the moment to head to the Castel Sant’Angelo. This underrated and overlooked site in Rome is a must-do. We are so glad we tried it!

Unlike the Colosseum, Vatican, and Forum, kids are let loose at Castel Sant’Angelo. This mausoleum turned fortress dates back to AD 123, when it was used by Hadrian’s time, then later used for defense of the bridge to the Vatican and as a refuge for popes. You enter right along the Tiber, and almost immediately go across a steep bridge that once opened and closed. Inside, kids can run along the fortress walls, checking out battlements, a catapult, cubbies from which to shoot arrows…the works. Further inside, you can walk the interior hallways and imagine guards and knights, torches and prisoners in chains. Not much has changed, really. Even the flooring is original. There’s a huge hole in the floor where kids can glimpse the dungeon, and up higher, you can tour through papal rooms still decorated for the popes who hid out here over the years. This interior section is actually quite amazing.

At the very top of the Castel, the views of the city are stunning. Be sure to allow time to take photos and use the view to pick out landmarks you’ve visited during your time in the city. There’s even a small cafe where you can pause for hot chocolate and espresso along the battlement one floor below the top (they don’t let you linger here at the tables if you haven’t ordered, however). Near this cafe are the interior rooms housing armor and weaponry through the ages. Unfortunately the descriptions are in Italian only, but let’s face it…by this point in a trip to Rome, kids are done reading things.

We spent several hours here, and loved the freedom to run around and explore at will. Afterward, we walked across the pedestrian bridge into Centro Storico (the old city) where we weren’t far from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona.

Pricing and hours:

Tickets at the time of our visit were €10 for adults and half that for kids 18 and under. We found no line when we visited a few hours before closing. Check opening and closing time, as it varies by season. During our winter visit, the fortress was open until 7 pm, with last ticket sales at 6:30 pm. I recommend touring around 5 pm in winter to be there for the sunset.

Tips for AirBnb Italy: Where to stay in Florence and Rome

March 16, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Originally thought of as only a step up from couch surfing, Airbnb has caught on with family travelers in the US. But what about using Airbnb while traveling abroad? We used Airbnb exclusively throughout Italy, and found the process to be just as secure and convenient as in the states. If anything, Airbnb Italy owners were even easier to work with, and the lodging savings were even better!

Airbnb Italy: Where to stay in Florence and Rome

When renting with Airbnb, it can be hard to know much about the apartment owner or manager. Will he or she be the type to welcome you with a bottle of wine and a binder of suggested itineraries, or be more hands off? You can’t be certain, but while reading reviews, look for information about the owner in addition to the apartment itself. The ‘best’ owners will receive glowing reviews of their own.

We had the pleasure of staying in this lovely Florence apartment, which was only steps from the central Ponte Vecchio bridge. Tucked away behind a pottery shop, this apartment was absolutely ideal. (The photo above is the actual entrance to this apartment.) Better yet, no one was using the owner’s second apartment rental, and she graciously offered our family both. For the first time in a week, our family of five was able to spread out. Our owner was the ‘bottle of wine upon arrival’ type, and even scoured the neighborhood for Christmas Day restaurant reservations for us. Truly, this was above and beyond.

The apartment we rented had a living room, bedroom with extra day bed, and pull-out bed to sleep five. There was a full kitchen (without oven…just stove top) and a dining table. All the little things were there: a hair dryer, shampoo and soap, detergent, and kitchen staples such as olive oil and coffee filters. A grocery store was located just around the corner.

We had a small patio and air conditioning and heat, plus the second apartment with all the same amenities. In fact, the apartment layouts are almost identical. The only exception: the bedroom is bigger in the lower apartment and the living space is bigger in the upper apartment.

In Rome, we rented from Airbnb again, and again, we had a great experience with the owner in terms of the accommodations, communication, and ease. We rented this unit, which was located in an upper middle class neighborhood directly on the Tiber. We were in easy walking distance of the Vatican area, a ten minute walk to Piazza Populo and Villa Borghese, and only meters from the Metro station where we could grab a train to other points in the city. Our longest ‘commute’ was to the Centro Storico (old city) where we spent a lot of time. It was a thirty minute walk without much in terms of metro access, but the entire way was scenic.

This apartment was by far the roomiest we had in Europe, with two bathrooms (a luxury!) and three bedrooms (one of which could be a living room space instead). The kitchen is very small, but we used it for snacks and breakfasts, opting to eat out for dinners. The grocery store is just around the corner, though it does close early and open late by American standards. We felt very secure here, as the apartment building had a doorman and a very elegant lobby. We loved all the space we enjoyed here; our only complaint: the street noise could get loud. I used ear plugs.

What to expect with any Airbnb rental in Italy:

Communication from the owner. You should hear from them within a week of your check-in date, with detailed instructions for finding the apartment and asking about your arrival time. Download the AirBnB app for the easiest communication.
Personal greeting. You will be met at the apartment by the owner or manager and given a tour.
A per-night, per-person lodging fee. This is paid in cash to the owner (usually at the end of the stay). It’s 2,50 euro per person, per night in most cases.
Feedback left for you after you depart. Remember to leave the owner feedback as well. This helps both of you for future trips.

What to expect only sometimes:

Some apartments require a deposit, usually in cash, which is returned before your departure. It will be disclosed whether this is required in the apartment description on AirBnB.
Some will have a bottle of Italian wine ready for you to uncork. Others won’t even have a bottle opener in the house. You just never know!

The Rome you may have missed: Why book a Walks of Italy tour

March 9, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

For anyone who can say, “I’ve seen the major sights of Rome, what next?” the answer is Walks of Italy’s Hidden Gems and Ancient Wonders tour. Perfect for adults and teens, this 3.5 hour tour dips in and out of the city and suburbs or Rome to hit upon a somewhat arbitrary yet completely fascinating bouquet of small stops. None of the sights on the tour take more than thirty minutes to view, and with stops ranging in topic from Jewish history to cannon fire to aqueducts, there’s something for everyone.

What to expect on a Walks of Italy tour:

Before the tour, we honestly thought 3.5 hours might be a little long. In fact, the time flew by, no doubt due to our funny and passionate guide, Andrea. It also didn’t hurt that unlike every other day in Rome, we were mostly off our feet, hopping in and out of a luxury van.

We only had eleven people in our group (three of which were from our family), which meant we were not one of the massive tour groups walking around the city. We started at Piazza Venezia, where we learned about the history of the buildings there and glimpsed the second century ruins that most overlook (away from the Forum). We then walked the short distance to the Jewish Ghetto and Jewish colosseum, where we learned about the history of Jewish Romans from the time the ghetto was established in the 1500s to the Nazi occupation.

We got in our van, and drove past the Circus Maximus and Palatine Hill to view something I’d been hoping to see in Rome: the view of St. Peter’s from the keyhole of the Knights of Malta. This brotherhood swore to protect the Vatican, hence the symbolic placing of the keyhole. It really is magical to peek inside this unassuming keyhole and see St. Peter’s dome perfectly framed there…like looking into some secret porthole. And while I’d read about this wonder in a guidebook, no way could I have found it on my own!

We then headed out the Appian Way, passing the Baths of Caracalla and stopping at the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella. While I’d been on the Appian way in the past, I’d never known there was so much in this area besides the many catacombs. We learned about the road, stopping to walk along it, see the chariot groves in the stone, and learn about the purpose and use of the road. From here, we went to the Park of the Aqueducts, which is actually just a large space with well preserved stretches of aqueduct. In other words, had we gone out here on our own, we really wouldn’t have known what we were looking at, precisely. In fact, each stop Andrea took us to was something we’d never be able to navigate or learn about on our own.

We finished the tour with a few more ‘drive by’ views and a stop at Janiculum Hill, where every day at noon, a cannon blast is set off to let the churches know when to ring their bells. Today, traffic obscures the cannon shot in most neighborhoods, which is why we had not heard it once in our five days in Rome! We certainly heard it from the hill! This is great place to take photos of the city, too. Finally, we drove down a particular street with a view of St. Peter’s dome that creates an optical illusion due to the street’s size and curve of its sidewalk: as you drive closer to the dome, it actually appears to grow smaller. This is yet another small tidbit of Rome I never would have discovered on my own.

We stopped several times for bathroom breaks and/or food breaks along the way, each time at a nice cafe with a friendly staff and great atmosphere. Snacks were on our own; our 11-year-old had the best pastry he found in Rome at one next to the Jewish Ghetto. Again, this tour should not be your first activity in the city, as it won’t hit the headliners, but is rather the perfect thing to do with your last morning in the city, or during repeat visits.

How to book:

It’s easy to book your tour directly through Walks of Italy. We booked online, and printed our confirmation email, which also listed our meeting time and location (just look for the person holding a Walks of Italy sign). They also do tours of the biggies, like the Colosseum and Vatican. They do offer lower prices for kids. Grab breakfast before you go, bring water, and try to be at your meeting point about 10 minutes before the tour time listed.

As we disclose whenever applicable, Walks of Italy offered us a media rate for this tour, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Ireland Road Trip for Adventurous Families on a Budget

March 2, 2016 By Sharlene Earnshaw

If you’re considering an Ireland vacation you would be forgiven in thinking that the ‘land of saints & scholars’ is all about bus tours, ancient ruins, and pretty scenery. And therefore, maybe a bit dull. You couldn’t be further from the truth! While Ireland is known for its history and stunning views, outdoor enthusiasts come to her emerald shores for world class hiking, cycling, and surfing.

While Ireland is known as an expensive destination, you can do an Ireland road trip on a budget, in comfort, and filled with adventure – and maybe a few castles.

Two Week Ireland Road Trip for Adventurous Families

Though Ireland is a small country, I don’t recommend trying to ‘see it all’ when you visit – you’ll do far too much driving and not enough enjoying. This itinerary leads you in a semi-circular exploration along Ireland’s southern coastline with stops and activities in some of the country’s most beautiful and unspoiled areas. By no means is this itinerary exhaustive – but it is enough to begin laying plans for a magical Ireland vacation!

Tip: to avoid backtracking I recommend booking flights that arrive in Dublin and depart from Shannon (or vice versa), though you can easily arrive and depart from the same airport if costs differ greatly.

Day 1: Arrive in Ireland

The majority of US flights arrive in Dublin in the early morning hours. While your body may be begging for rest it’s important to get on ‘Ireland time’ as quickly as possible – and the best way to do that is to get active! Unless Dublin is a ‘must visit’ for your family, pick up your rental car and bypass the city for the beauty of County Wicklow. Explore the magnificent grounds of Powerscourt Estate – the stunning gardens are a perfect place to let the flight stress melt away. The on-site Avoca Café will fill the gnawing in your tummy with fresh, locally sourced food. Eat at the estate or get a picnic to go and make your way to Ireland’s tallest waterfall where you will also find beautiful hikes and a lovely playground. From Powerscourt continue into the Wicklow Mountains, where you will spend two nights.

Lodging: For a truly budget option, the Glendalough International Youth Hostel is clean and spacious, with family rooms available. Bracken B&B is within walking distance of the Monastic City of Glendalough and the Wicklow Way walking routes.

Tip: Irish B&Bs include the famous (and filling) Irish Breakfast! You’ll be set til mid-afternoon after eating one of these!

Day 2: Explorations in Wicklow

The Monastic City of Glendalough, in the heart of the Wicklow Mountains National Park is well worth your time. Explore the 6^th century settlement and hike along woodland paths to St. Kevin’s cell and the Poulanass Waterfall. Walking trails through the Wicklow Mountains range in length and difficulty, but there is no finer way to spend a nice Irish day.

Tip: Use the interactive map at Ireland Family Vacations to fill in the gaps of your itinerary!

Days 3-4 (option 1)

From Wicklow you have a couple of really great options, depending on where your interest lie. For a wonderful taste of medieval Ireland, venture inland to Kilkenny and Tipperary for 2 nights.

Lodging: The self-catering cottages of Tir na nOg and Brigadoon near Cahir are spacious and perfectly located for exploring.

History abounds here. Kilkenny is a wonderfully walkable city. Kilkenny Castle is the royal palace of your imagination, while the ‘Medieval Mile’ brings the city’s history to life. If sport fishing is of interest, be sure to plan an afternoon at Jerpoint Park, where wild salmon and Brown Trout fill the river.

Sports minded? Then be sure to reserve your spots at The Kilkenny Way, a two hour experience which takes you into the 3000 year old sport of Hurling. Outdoor explorations around the Rock of Cashel, Cahir Castle, Kells Priory, and Jerpoint Abbey – as well as Kilkenny’s food and craft trails will more than fill two days.

Days 3-4 (option 2)

If Blarney Castle is on your ‘must see’ list, drop south to County Cork from Glendalough. If you’ve a taste for whiskey be sure to stop at Midleton for the Jameson Whiskey Experience. Don’t worry- it’s family friendly.

Any animal lovers in the family? Fota Wildlife Park is definitely worth a stop. The 70 acre wildlife park is open air, no thick glass walls between you and the animals.

Tip: The VIP Family Experience is well worth the splurge if you’ve a budding zoologist!

Lodging: The White House Blarney is perfectly placed for touring this area. Be sure to enquire about the 25% children’s discount. For an ocean view, cliff walk, and easy access to Blue Flag Garryvoe Beach choose Castle Farm, just north of Cork City.

Blarney Castle deserves half a day as the extensive gardens- including the fascinating Poison Garden and the Rock Close- are incredible. Plan a visit to the seaside town of Kinsale. Arrive early enough for a Historic Stroll before heading out on a tour of the bay, where you’ll get a great overview of the seaside walks. Don’t leave Kinsale without eating- it’s known as the ‘foodie capital of Ireland’.

Days 5-7

Didn’t make it into Cork City yet? Do that before heading to West Cork. Be sure to stop at the English Market for a few meal necessities or visit Cobh, the last port of call of the Titanic.

Lodging: Book a Luxury or Family Pod at Top of the Rock Pod Pairc. Enjoy the fun farm animals, evenings by the fire pit, and stunning location. Luxury pods have a small kitchenette while the walking centre features a full, shared kitchen. Need a bit more space? Consider a cabin at Waterfall Alpaca Farm.

Outdoor activities abound here! Local walks include the Pilgrim’s Way and the Alpaca Waterfall Walk. Farther afield the incredible Sheep’s Head Peninsula and Mizen Head, the most southerly point in Ireland, are spectacular. In nearby Bantry you will find horseback riding, whale watching, kayaking, and departure points for local islands.

Days 8-10

Leaving Cork you’ll enter ‘The Kingdom’ of County Kerry. You’ll soon see why most Ireland itineraries include a few days here!

Lodging: Fáilte Hostel in the charming village of Kenmare has spacious family rooms and a 1:30am curfew has rowdy guests bunking elsewhere. Salmon Leap Farm, a bit closer to Killarney, can arrange local activities including horse trekking, angling, guided walks, angling, and guided hill walking.

Famed for the spectacular Ring of Kerry, Killarney is a tourist hot spot. And you’ll see why as there is so much to do. Jaunting cart rides here are wonderful- choose a ride in Killarney National Park or the Gap of Dunloe- the jarveys are filled with stories; it’s up to you to decipher the truth from the blarney!

Plan a day to explore either the Ring of Kerry or the Dingle Peninsula. Both are wonderful, filled with history, hikes, and hidden beaches. For a truly exhilarating activity, try coasteering, which includes rock climbing, caving, and jumping into the ocean (thankfully you’ll have a wetsuit!)

Looking for adventures a bit less adrenaline-filled? Do a bit of surfing on Inch Beach, go underground at Crag Cave, fly a hawk at Killarney Falconry, or spend the day hiking in Killarney National Park. The farthest reaches of the Dingle Peninsula are a Gaeltacht, where Irish is still spoken. In town many of the shops have a small signs stating Gaelige á labhairt anseo – Irish spoken here.

Days 11-13

It’s time for the final leg of your Irish adventure, and we’ll end in fine style in County Clare. You have your choice of routes- either through Limerick city (if so, do plan to spend an afternoon at Bunratty Castle & Folk Park) or along the coast via Shannon Ferry.

Lodging: Doolin Hostel is perfectly located for touring the west of Ireland. Spacious family rooms and a policy against hen & stag parties guarantee a peaceful stay.

From Doolin it feels as if all of Ireland is at your feet. Walk along the crashing Atlantic Ocean to the Cliffs of Moher. Spend days exploring the Burren – guided and self-guided walks offer everything from foraging to archeology to ancient lore. And don’t miss the Burren Food Trail! Most locations – farms, gardens, bakeries, creameries, and restaurants- welcome visitors to learn about their local offerings and get a taste.

The Aran Islands, another Gaeltacht, are a short boat ride from Doolin Pier and a terrific day trip for walking or cycling. Your cruise back to Doolin may even include a side trip to the base of the Cliffs of Moher.

Active adventures are found a bit further south in Lahinch where Lahinch Adventures offers surfing, rock climbing, archery, cycling, kayaking, and hill walking.

If you’ve not yet visited a traditional Irish Pub for live music, Doolin is the place to do it. And go ahead and take the kids – an evening at the public house is a family friendly activity!

Day 14

Your flight leaves today. It’s difficult to say goodbye to Ireland, but hopefully you’re taking home lasting memories and a desire to return!

Note: Not including Northern Ireland in this itinerary was quite deliberate. As ‘the North’ is part of the UK costs are 2-3 times higher there due to the exchange rate and can really do damage to a budget.

About the author: Jody Halsted has been traveling across Ireland for over a decade with her own children, discovering the most family friendly sites and activities on the tourist trail and off. Dedicated to Ireland family travel, her website Ireland Family Vacations, provides exceptional advice for a magical Ireland vacation. For families looking for a perfectly tailored Ireland vacation, Jody offers Ireland vacation coaching, working with your family to help you choose the perfect lodging, destinations, and activities to fit your budget, interests, and expectations.

Where to eat in Paris with kids…if you’re not a foodie

February 24, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

I will admit that before we arrived in the City of Lights, I was intimidated by the Paris dining scene. We don’t speak much French, we’re not foodies, and we don’t like snails (sorry). After spending five days in Paris with kids, well, I’m still intimidated by the Paris dining scene, but we ate there happily anyway. Here’s where to eat in Paris…and how.

Hit up patisseries for breakfasts:

And snacks. And maybe lunch. We loved these French bakeries, which seemed to be on every corner in Paris, no matter which arrisondment we found ourselves in. Baguettes of crusty French bread cost less than €1, and French pastries, including eclairs and chocolate croissants (pain au chocolat) are about the same price. I guess it’s similar to going to a donut shop for breakfast every morning, but seems so much classier. And yummier. Our favorite bakery was Boulangerie Saint Michel, in the Latin Quarter, as well as the many near our apartment rental in Montmartre.

Street vendors are king:

Instead of searching out kid-friendly cafes at lunch time, we ate street food. Lots and lots of street food. Not only was this option much more affordable than eating out, it was a time saver and frankly, delicious. The kids ate mostly crepes (they can be filled with things like Nutella and bananas to make them slightly more nutritious), as well as hot dogs (wrapped in baguette, of course). We adults ate a lot of quiche and baguette sandwiches, and never complained.

We found street vendors to be most plentiful in the areas around major tourist attractions of course, including the Lourve, Notre Dame, Saint Michel, and the Concorde. Enjoy a buffet of street food along the rue between Notre Dame and the Hotel d’Ville, before you cross the ‘island’ to the other side of the Seine.

Make your own picnic lunches (or dinners):

We loved sampling the wares at Paris street markets and in Paris cheese shops. Consider food shopping in Paris to be a combination of sight-seeing, souvenir-shopping, and dining. We created lovely picnic dinners to enjoy in our apartment after our legs were too tired to walk further. We shopped for cheese, cured meats, dried fruits, and baguette, and supplemented these items with crackers and inexpensive wine and juice from the grocery. Voila…dinner is served.

Yes, you should try some restaurants, too:

We didn’t want to do anything fancy in Paris, but we did eat several tasty meals out in casual cafes. Our favorites were recommended in our itinerary created for us by Momaboard. Read more about Momaboard’s itinerary planning in our post on creating a Paris itinerary with kids.

Here are a few dining experiences their planner, a local parent, recommended:

Cafe Constant (139 Rue Saint-Dominique)
Cafe La Place Cambronne (5 Avenue Anatole)
les Cocottes (135 rue st Dominque)

All of these dining establishments are kid-friendly, casual, and serve simple fare and rustic French cuisine (comfort food). We also tried several cafes in Montmartre, near Sacre Coeur. While this little square is very touristy, we found friendly waiters here willing to hear out our rudimentary French, good mussels and frites (fries), and a cheery ambiance. Go just below Sacre Coeur to the bottom of the steps, and the cafe on the corner there makes for a nice date night out for parents with that luxury.

Where do you like to eat in Paris with kids? We know we only scratched the surface!

Paris day trip: Touring Normandy D-Day battlefields

February 15, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

In each major city we visited during our European trip, we opted to take one long day trip outside the city limits. In Paris, many options for day trips vie for attention, but for our family, a tour of the Normandy D-Day battlefields won out. We have two teens who have studied WWII history, and this tour was their pick.

Touring Normandy D-Day battlefields:

We opted to go through Viator for our tour,, choosing their Normandy D-Day Battlefields and Beaches tour. One of the most respected and well-known tour companies operating across Europe, we trust Viator to provide a high quality experience. One thing for families to note that many don’t realize: Viator is a middle man. They don’t conduct the tours themselves, but rather outsource them locally. For travelers who expect to be led by a Viator guide from a Viator office, this can be unsettling or even alarming, but I think there’s a good reason behind it: Viator is a huge operation, and cannot be the expert on everything, everywhere. I appreciate that they seek out the best guides within each city. In any case, we had a tour with them in both Paris and Rome, and in both cases, our guides were top-notch.

For the D-Day tour starting and ending in Paris, Viator uses Paris City Vision. We met our group and guide at the Paris City Vision office by the Concorde in Paris at 6:30 am the day of our tour. Yes, painfully early, especially since we’d be late if we waited for the metro. We opted to call a car service so we’d be certain a ride would be ready and waiting for us. (We used Blacklane, which I highly recommend. Read more about our experience with them in this post on planning a Paris itinerary.)

After an easy check-in experience at Paris City Vision, we headed for Normandy on a luxury tour bus. I know, I know, everyone hates big tours in tour busses. But it was fine and I’ll explain why: we never, ever walked all around in a huge group at the sites. Our tour stopped at four locations, and our guide talked to us while the bus was in transit in each case, allowing us to tour as individual families. This is where the value of the tour came in: we didn’t have to figure out our own transportation to and from Normandy, we had all entry tickets taken care of, and we had expert commentary before each stop.

The drive to the first stop, which is in Caen, takes almost three hours. Yes, ouch. But we slept, and found the bus very comfortable, with reclining seats and reading lights and a restroom onboard. The first stop on the tour is the Caen-Normandie Memorial museum at the site of a German bunker and stronghold during the French occupation, and covers WWII very much in depth, from pre-war time through the liberation. It does cover the holocaust in detail, so prepare children. In fact, I’d recommend this whole tour only to families with kids age 10 and up. We’d prepared them for D-Day battle details, but didn’t know we’d need to prepare them for some very sad details regarding Jewish ghettos and camps. This part of the museum was too much for our 11-year-old. It’s hard to bypass because exhibits are intermixed, but the area downstairs towards the end of the hall have the most holocaust stories. The violence of the D-Day battles are much less graphic, even in the film…he has no problem with those aspects of the museum.

An included lunch was served in the museum for our group privately. It was a sit-down affair, with a salad bar (French cafeteria style, with a second dessert and cheese station) and main dish. There was not a choice in the main dish. When we visited, it was a rustic French style cuisine of baked chicken or hen. Some of us loved it, others not so much, but there was plenty of food for those who didn’t enjoy the main dish.

The tour then drove us through very pretty Normandy countryside and villages to Pointe du Hoc, Omaha Beach, and Juno Beach. Pointe du Hoc is the region on high cliffs scaled by US Rangers and has extensive bunkers and bomb craters to look at and walk through. Omaha Beach has an excellent visitor center (be sure to leave time to go downstairs) and the US cemetery. Juno has the memorial to the Canadian forces and easy beach access.

The picturesque countryside and tiny villages (of which we drove through several) was an added bonus for me on this trip. I had wanted to find a way to explore more of the French countryside, and this way, we got to see some of this without renting a car for the day. Our guide pointed out WWII-related landmarks in and around the villages, such as the hedgerows that cost so many lives as smaller battles were fought through and between them.

The entire day was certainly sobering, but also beautiful and impressive. We learned a lot, and as noted above, we had plenty of time for personal reflection and family time during the day, as we spread out from our larger group at each stop. As a family, we were able to decide our own itinerary through each memorial and museum, spending time together and digesting the information together. For families wishing to find a particular memorial marker or name, there is time for this. However, we found that at each stop, we didn’t quite have as much time as we’d like. Certainly, had we been staying in Normandy and had more time, we would have spent at least a half hour more at each stop.

We returned to Paris around 4 pm, stopping for a quick dinner at a service station along the interstate. This meal was on our own, and nothing more than a necessary stop. I was actually glad they hadn’t built in another longer meal, as we were ready to be back in the city by this point. We arrived back at the tour office around 8:30 pm.

Certainly, this tour was a very full day, but our sixteen-year-old lists it as one of the most memorable of our trip. Teens who have studied (or will study) this war will find it fascinating. Our 11-year-old was also old enough to understand and enjoy the tour, though he did get bored a few times. If you go, be prepared for some heavy subjects and hard questions, and do your best to prepare kids ahead of time. As noted above, there’s nothing visually graphic as far as war images go, but the stories and the cemeteries do take their toll. By the last stop at Juno, I will admit all we wanted to do was walk together as a family on the beach.

A few practicalities and pricing info:

Bring books or iPods for kids’ entertainment on the bus, or even a deck of cards. The bus seats have little trays like airplane seats do. I also suggest bringing bottled water, though our guide was great about pointing out where we could buy more along the way. The cost of the tour is on the higher side of Viator’s Paris offerings, due to the length of the tour and distance traveled. We felt the value was definitely there, provided you have older kids or teens.

Book on Viator.com, and print out your confirmation page. That’s all we needed at the tour office. When you book, you’ll receive an email from Viator letting you know which company is conducting your tour and where to meet.

At the time of our visit, pricing was $199 for adults and kids were approximately $99. This price includes all admission fees and lunch, plus the transportation. There’s an option to pay more for hotel pick up/drop off.

As we disclose whenever applicable, our Normandy tour was paid for by Viator, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Walk in the footsteps of Harry Potter and his friends on your next visit to London

February 5, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

There’s no doubt about it, children and adults all over the world are obsessed with Harry Potter and his adventures. From Harry Potter Book Nights, where fans gather to celebrate the Harry Potter series, through to tours of the locations and the studio where the movies were made, if you’re a Harry Potter aficionado you can always find something to satisfy your thirst for further knowledge of the young wizard.

In fact, the Harry Potter phenomenon has even stretched as far as Japan, where their enduring fascination has generated unheard of book sales, box office receipts, and even his very own theme park, since the release of the first movie, Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, over 15 years ago. Just this week, the Japanese have taken their obsession one step further as a series of Harry Potter Manga characters created by a Japanese design company were released, albeit only in Japan for the moment.

The illustrations, which were created in collaboration with Shockhiku, a Japanese movie studio, and licensed by Warner Bros, represent 13 characters from the quintessentially English adventure, and include all the major players in the series from Harry himself, Hermoine Grainger and Ron Weasley to Albus Dumbledore and Professor Snape, who was played by the great British actor Alan Rickman who died recently. There’s even a Manga representation for Harry’s owl, Hedwig. Released as plastic folders with a character on the front and the four Hogwart’s houses on the back, the characters have typical Manga features, with enormous eyes, tiny feet and glossy hair.

However, for real Harry Potter fans, there’s nothing like being in London and taking a tour of the locations used in the Harry Potter movies. Whether you want to see Kings Cross Station, where they filmed the famous Platform 9¾, or 12 Grimmauld Place and the sites used for the Leaky Cauldron, an organised bus tour of the London locations is one of the best ways to get around London and see not just the places featured in the movies, but also some of the iconic London landmarks. With a tour guide to give you all the insider information about how the movies were actually made, it’s one of the best ways to immerse you and your children in the whole Harry Potter experience. Plus, if you really want to get in the mood, you can even dress as one of your favourite Harry Potter characters, although this is not a requirement.

Visiting London offers the perfect opportunity to find out more about how the movies were made, and to learn more about movie making in general if you’ve got any budding Steven Spielbergs in the family; so for this reason a Harry Potter Studio Tour is a must for any die-hard fans. During the tour you’ll get an up-close-and-personal view of the actual sets used to film all eight of the Harry Potter movies, plus you’ll get to see the stunning costumes, props and visual effects that were used to bring these truly iconic movies to life and to the big screen. Children will love visiting the sets, including the Great Hall, Diagon Alley and Hagrid’s Hut, and they’ll also be given the opportunity for a photo shoot sitting in the flying Ford Anglia, made by Arthur Weasley, and used by Fred, George and Ron to rescue Harry who’d been locked up in his room.

Both of the above tours are available from Brit Movie Tours who offer a range of Harry Potter Tours in London and other locations throughout the UK.

Photo credit: Barry Benbridge

Touring Paris with Fat Tire Tours

February 1, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

While planning our itinerary for Paris with kids, I kept hearing about an English-language, Paris-based tour company that goes around on bikes. My family loves exploring cities by bike (you may remember how we gushed about Bike ‘n Roll in the States), so we contacted Fat Tire Tours and set up a morning with them.

We chose to try their Paris Day Bike Tour, which has been a staple at the company since 1999. The tour is 3.5 hours, and covers a lot of ground. After several days of hoofing it around Paris, it was a welcome relief to be on two wheels. The Paris Day Bike Tour is designed to give visitors an overview of the area around the Eiffel Tower, Concorde, and Invalides. We took the tour on Day 3, and but while we’d seen the Eiffel Tower from afar and walked around the Louvre area, most of the stops were brand new to us.

The tour started at 9 am. After booking online, we were sent an email confirmation with instructions on where to meet the group. It was easy to find the Metro station indicated, but we almost ended up being late when we stood in the wrong place and somehow didn’t notice the group gathering. Doh! Once we were on the right track, one guide led the large group of about 25 people to Fat Tire’s office, where we could stash backpacks if needed, buy water, use the restroom, and get fitted for bikes. I worried at this point that our group would be too large to be manageable, but I shouldn’t have feared. Once we were all on bikes, the group was broken down to about 8 people per guide.

We set out within about 25 minutes, and rode primarily on streets, following our guide, with breaks from traffic on some bike paths and while on car-free paths along the Seine. While we did need to pay close attention to our guide while navigating the streets, it was easy to follow instructions and I never felt unsafe. Our kids were old enough to ride solo and follow instructions, but young kids are also welcome, as Fat Tire Tours has bikes with child seats available. I’d venture to say kids under age 5 would have a hard time in the traffic, and should be in bike seats.

Our guide Nick was British, living in Paris, and he was a wealth of information with a fun and lively personality. The kids were always interested in his commentary as he described Paris history through the various stops at historical buildings, churches, and bridges. I appreciated that Nick didn’t ‘dumb down’ the information for children. Even when the commentary was geared more to adults, there was always the novelty of riding the bikes through the city to keep kids entertained.

I learned a great deal about some buildings I otherwise would have passed by in Paris, and Nick was able to provide advice on where else to go in the city with the kids. In fact, we would have skipped seeing the d’Orsay Museum if not for his tip to go the following morning. It turned out to be our favorite museum.

We made about 10 stops through the city, with a longer break off the bikes at a cafe in the Tuileries by the Louvre. Even though we went in winter, this garden area was beautiful, and the little cafe was perfect for an easy lunch with kids. The boys got savory crepes and soup, and the adults had sandwiches on baguette. The wine and hot chocolate were both nice, too. At the end of our tour, we got a great photo op at the tower, too.

Note: Lunch is not included in the price, but is not expensive. I believe we spent about €7 per person. We brought our own water bottles in a small backpack.

Overall, we found everyone at Fat Tire Tours to be friendly, welcoming, and energetic, from Nick to the office staff to the attendants putting us on bikes. It was a very friendly place to spend a morning in Paris, which can be an intimidating city. After our tour, the office staff gave us further advice on how to spend our afternoon. We had tickets to go up the Eiffel Tower, so we walked over from the office and spent a few hours enjoying the winter sunshine and checking out the Christmas market.

Cost:

This half-day tour is $32 each, which I think is a steal. It was absolutely worth this and more.

Directions:

The office is located by the Eiffel Tower, and full instructions for meeting your group will be given upon booking.

As I disclose whenever applicable, our tour was comped by Fat Tire Tours, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Tips for touring the Eiffel Tower

January 29, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Whether you think of the Eiffel Tower as cliched or iconic (or both!), it’s undoubtedly a must do on a family trip to Paris. We actually loved the time we spent at this most famous landmark, especially since we made a day of it. We started our morning with a bike tour with Fat Tire Tours, enjoyed the afternoon playing soccer and pursuing food stalls at the base of the tower, then went to the top in time for sunset. Our whole family counts this day as one of our favorites in Paris.

There are several levels of the tower, and several ways to get in and on it. We knew the kids would want to go to the top, so I bought tickets online before our trip for 3rd level access. When purchasing, I chose the time I wanted to visit, as it’s a timed entry situation. I thought about our time quite carefully, finally deciding to check weather.com for the estimated sunset time for the day we were going, and selecting a time period just before. Yes, this is high level planning-geek stuff, but it worked! We ascended the tower just before sunset, saw the sun set over the city at the second level, and enjoyed the twinkling lights of dusk at the top. Here’s what you need to know:

Tips for touring the Eiffel Tower:

When you buy tickets online in advance, you skip the line at the tower. Just print your emailed confirmation and show it at one of the four Advanced Ticket queues. They won’t let you up before your reserved time…we asked.

You’ll still go through a security check point, but you get to skip the majority of this line, too. From this point, you can either walk or ride the elevator to the second level. For some reason we didn’t understand, during our visit, the stair access was closed (going up). Our French wasn’t good enough to understand why.

Note: During high season, we’ve been told it’s possible to skip the queue at the bottom (assuming you don’t have an online ticket or don’t want to reserve a time) and climb the stairs to the second level to buy level 3 tickets, but when we visited in winter, this ticketing option was closed. Don’t count on it. Instead, buy online in advance.

At the second level, you’ll have to get out of the elevator. This is a nice place to look around, though. It was higher than we expected, and the views were great. From here, there’s a queue to get on the elevators to the top level. They’re unavoidable, sadly. When we visited, this line took about 25 minutes. However, this is where our sunset/twilight timing worked out: we were able to see the city in mostly daylight on the second level, and by the time we reached the third level, it was fully night.

At the top, there’s a glassed in, covered area and an outdoor area. It’s not unlike visiting the (former) Sears Tower or Empire State Building in that it’s extremely high, very windy, and totally thrilling for kids. We spent quite a bit of time up here, even though it was freezing and starting to snow. We actually got better photos down below, but the wow factor is fun. Plus, there are a few exhibits at the top showing Eiffel’s office he kept at the top for years, and some history on the tower. I knew he had created the design for the world’s fair, but had not realized that the city of Paris gave him the tower for 20 years afterward.

Going down, you have to wait in the queue again, so definitely budget at least 1.5 hours for the whole endeavor. You are let back off at the second level, and this time, the stairs were open (or perhaps they were always open for downward travel) so we took them. It was a great way to see more of the structure up close while not fighting gravity. On the first level (just above the ground), there’s an ice skating rink during the winter holidays. And it’s completely free, including rentals. Yes, really! We were so surprised by this. The kids all skated, and we adults enjoyed a hot beverage at the food stand adjacent. I’m curious what this space is used for in summer.

As most people know, the tower’s lights twinkle at the top of every hour. It’s certainly a better sight looking AT the tower instead of while being on it, but we happened to catch it while we were ice skating, and it was quite impressive. We felt as though we were inside the sparkle.

Note: At the security checkpoint, they are looking for and confiscating locks, like the kind used symbolically on the bridges. This is because they are absolutely not allowed on the tower. I had a lock in my bag to use elsewhere, and it was still taken from me. Lesson learned.

If you’re lucky enough to be there during the Christmas season, in addition to the ice skating rink, you’ll find a medium-sized Christmas market directly below the tower, complete with a second rink and lots of goodies. We especially recommend the chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) and mulled wine, paired with Belgian waffles with Nutella and crepes.

Pricing and hours:

Tickets are €17 for adults, €14,50 for youth (12-24) and €8 for kids. Age 4 and under is free. After selecting the number and type of tickets you need, you’ll be prompted to select a time period. When we booked two weeks prior to our trip, there were only 2-3 time choices left in the day we needed, so book early.

Directions:

The closest metro lines are Metro line 6 – Bir Hakeim or Metro line 8. Walk away from the tower along the open space toward the military building on the other side, then turn left at the far left corner. You can also walk to the Concorde area pretty easily.