Highway 93 Canada - Pitstops for Kids

Five stops along the Icefields Parkway in Jasper and Banff National Parks

April 25, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’re visiting both Jasper and Banff national parks on your Canadian Rockies vacation (and you should be!), you will drive the Icefields Parkway connecting the two parks. This 3 hour stretch has been described as one of the most scenic highways in the world, and after our fall 2013 visit, I concur. The parkway takes approximately 3.5 hours to drive, but families will definitely want to stop along the way. Where to plan you pit stops:

Sunwapta Falls:
About 30 km from Jasper, you’ll come to Sunwapta Falls. Signage clearly marks this point-of-interest, but you can also spot it by the resort and restaurant sitting roadside. Stop for a snack or trip to the restroom, but definitely drive beyond the resort to the falls, which can be viewed from above next to the parking lot or from a footbridge a few yards down. The falls are impressive (yes, even if you’ve been to Jasper’s Maligne Canyon), and even though this isn’t a hiking location, it’s a great place for photos and to let kids stretch their legs.

Icefield Centre:
Athabasca Glacier lies at the approximate halfway point of the Icefields Parkway, as visitors steadily climb up into the mountains from either direction. At the glacier you’ll find the Icefield Centre, a huge building run by Brewster’s Canada. On-site is a restaurant and cafe, plus hotel rooms and a large observation deck. On the ground level is Brewster’s Glacier Adventure.

One look out onto the glacier from the deck, and your kids will see what Glacier Adventure is, and probably want to do it: visitors board bus-sized all-terrain vehicles and drive out onto the ice, where they can stand out on the glacier. Sounds cool, but is it worth the $49/adults and $25/kids ticket price? That depends on what you want out of it: if you want to be able to say you’ve walked on a glacier or simply love cool vehicles, the answer is yes. If you expect an adventurous experience or a hike, the answer is no.

The vehicles, called Ice Explorers, take you along a short but steep road (the second steepest commercial road in North America, to be exact) leading onto the ice. Once there, they park in a snowplowed area the size of a small parking lot along with other Ice Explorers and let you out to walk on the snow. What we liked most about the experience: the interesting facts presented by our guide. Note: Expect to get your feet wet unless wearing waterproof boots, and bring gloves and a jacket.

Parker Ridge trailhead:
There are multiple trailheads along Icefields Parkway, all clearly marked (and most with parking areas and decent pit toilets). One of manageable length for a brief stop is Parker Ridge, which lies just beyond the Icefield Centre toward Banff. The 3 km round-trip hike offers views of the Saskatchewan Glacier and Mt. Castleguard on a clear day.

Peyto Lake and Bow Summit:
Peyto is a short road-side hike to the lake, with the option of hiking further toward Bow Summit for alpine wildflower viewing and meadows. This is the highest point on the Icefields Parkway. Picnic tables make this a great place to stop and picnic and photographers will be happy!

Lake Louise:
Only 57 km from Banff, Lake Louise is a must-do stop, if not an overnight or all-day excursion. From the Lake Louise exit, the lakeshore is only a few kilometers away. Park in the large parking lot and walk to the lake to take in the views and snap some photos, gawk at beautiful Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, and, if time permits, take a hike. The lake loop is an easy walk for kids of all ages, but if you have time, we recommend the 7 km round trip ascent to Lake Agnes (trail departs directly from Lake Louise). For your efforts, you’re rewarded with tea, coffee, or a snack at the picturesque Lake Agnes Tea House at the top.

See our video review of more things to do in the Canadian Rockies:

Tip: Remember that you’ll pass the national park ticket booth on either end of the Icefields Parkway. At the time of this writing, admission to the parks was almost $10 per day for adults (almost $5 for kids) or a family fee of under $20 per day. You only need to pay once, and display a receipt on the dashboard of your car.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we were hosted for some activities along the Icefields Parkway, for the purpose of review.

Deer Lodge Lake Louise: Where to stay near the lake

November 18, 2013 By Amy Hagstrom

When arriving at Lake Louise, it’s impossible to overlook massive Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise planted directly at the lake shore. However, en route to the lake, you’ll drive directly past the much more modest, historic, and beautiful Deer Lodge, operated by Canadian Rockies Mountain Resorts. This is where you want to be.

Why? Deer Lodge is fits its surroundings perfectly: its log-hewn buildings nestle against a backdrop of evergreen, its wooden deck overlooks the single road to the lake, and its stone chimney puffs woodsmoke, reminding visitors that just inside lies a cozy sitting room with stone fireplace. And it’s still lakeside: guests can walk to Lake Louise in under five minutes.

It’s the lodge that should sit on the lakeshore, calling to mind the storied mountaineering history of the Banff Lake Louise area. During summer, guests can sit out on the deck under shade umbrellas, and in autumn or winter, the craggy mountain views from the rooftop hot tub absolutely cannot be beat. The hotel is aged, to be sure (expect the usual quirks of an old building, including creaks and temperamental heating and plumbing), but with age comes charm you won’t find elsewhere in small Lake Louise.

Amenities:

The Deer Lodge sitting room is the place to be in the evening before dinner; sit by the fire with a good book, or play a game of chess or checkers by the windows. There’s also a smaller sitting room with a piano guests are permitted to play, and a game room downstairs featuring a pool table and the lodge’s only TV (complete with couches and DVD library).

The best feature of Deer Lodge has to be its hot tub: situated on the roof, it’s nothing fancy, but its simplicity is breathtaking. The views of the surrounding mountains are amazing, and the crisp air feels great as you soak. Guests will find hooks to hang their towels on, and changing rooms downstairs below the hot tub access. During our autumn visit, the hot tub was open 10 am to 11 pm; seasonal hours apply.

Rooms:

Rooms at Deer Lodge are modest, but there is a newer addition to the building with larger floor plans. Either way, expect a lack of TVs in the rooms, though guests do enjoy free wifi. Our room featured a shower with tub and plenty of counter and sink space in the bathroom, and a nicely sized balcony. The only amenity I wished we had was a mini fridge; I didn’t mind the lack of a TV, but could have used the ability to store leftover food and snacks.

Dining:

The dining room at Deer Lodge is excellent. We loved the atmosphere in the evening–cozy yet elegant–and the food is outstanding. It’s also expensive, so look for the lounge menu, which is available even when dining in the main dining room. Breakfast is served as well, though still pricey; out of practicality, families may opt to walk the short distance to the Fairmont to pick up muffins and other bakery goods at their quick service coffee shop. (It’s also possible to pick up sandwiches here to take with you for a picnic.)

From Deer Lodge, hiking at and around Lake Louise is only steps away (don’t bother with your car) or Banff is only a 30-45 minute drive.

Distance from the interstate:

Deer Lodge is located just minutes from Highway 93 (Icefields Parkway).

Room rates:

At the time of our visit, room rates for a standard room were listed at approximately $125. Rates vary by season.

Directions:

From 93, take the Lake Louise exit and stay on Lake Louise Drive. The lake (and Deer Lodge) is approximately 4 km up the road.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced Deer Lodge as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.

Lake Louise Alberta hiking: Lake Agnes Tea House

October 30, 2013 By Amy Hagstrom

The wilderness surrounding Lake Louise, Alberta may be the most stunningly beautiful in the greater Banff-Lake Louise area. And if you’ve been to Banff, you know that’s saying something. Plenty of backcountry treks depart from Lake Louise and its next-door neighbor, Lake Moraine, making Lake Louise Alberta hiking some of the best in the Canadian Rockies. Our favorite–to the Lake Agnes Tea House–is also one of the most family-friendly. Side note: does this photo even look real? I assure you it is!

The ascent to Lake Agnes is just that…an ascent. Hikers start at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and take the well-marked Lake Agnes trail, which climbs for the entire 3.5 km. (This is good news for the hike back, of course.) The way may be steadily uphill, but it’s not unmanageable for kids, and because the entire trip is only 7 km, families can take their time.

The first section of the trail parallels Lake Louise, but without the views: the way is dense forest. Once the end of the lake is reached, however, the forest clears for nice views of the far end of Lake Louise before the trail turns into a short series of switchbacks. This takes hikers to a stop at tiny Mirror Lake, then to a turnoff for Little Beehive. Turn here for a fairly easy ascent to a nice viewpoint of the valley, including great views of Lake Louise in her entirety. If you go this route, simply backtrack after checking out the Little Beehive view and return to the turnoff. If you opt to continue on to Lake Agnes, the trail takes you back into the forest for a short distance to a cascading waterfall and set of wooden stairs leading to the lake and tea house.

The Lake Agnes Tea House sits perched directly on the edge of the lake, with spectacular views of the big Beehive (a beehive-shaped slab of rock you cannot miss) and the mountain crags surrounding the small lake. Take a few minutes to sit at a table on the Tea House deck to take in the view, or head inside the cozy dining room with wood-burning stove to order a pot of tea or French pressed coffee. Kids can order hot chocolate or cider, and if you arrive at lunch time, the Tea House has a selection of sandwiches, soups, and bakery goods that are made fresh daily on-site.

Take a few minutes to talk with the Tea House staff; most are young men and women from around the world, working for the season, and all live on-site. All supplies (and trash) are packing in and out of Lake Agnes on foot or horseback, and staffers are very knowledgable about area hikes and peak ascents.

The Tea House is a destination in itself, but if you’re up for more hiking, take the trail around the circumference of Lake Agnes to the series of switchbacks to the Beehive lookout. This trail is short but steep, with drop-offs in some locations. The switchbacks take you to the saddle of the ridge, which you follow to the lookout structure at the edge. The saddle is wide enough that there’s no fear of falling, but it’s essential children follow directions and stay on the trail. The views are as amazing as you’d expect.

Adding either or both Beehive to your Lake Agnes hike will add approximately 2 km to your trip, but the descent back to Lake Louise is a breeze. If you’re up for even more, the longer trail to Six Glaciers (and its own tea house) connects at Lake Agnes.

Note: The Lake Agnes Tea House is open mid-April to mid-October, and takes cash only. Seasonal hours vary, but during our off-season (fall) visit, it as open 10 am to 5 pm.

For additional hiking, check out trails departing from Lake Moraine, or go to Banff Lake Louise for more info.