Hwy 20 - Pitstops for Kids

Exploring the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone: navigating Upper and Lower Falls

October 9, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

During a time when many vacations are not possible, outdoor activities in road trip-accessible locations offer the ability to safely social distance. Hotels.com asked me to share my favorite activities and tips for exploring Yellowstone, so start here as you plan a safe and responsible vacation.

Located a full 50 miles away from the central hub (and congestion) of Yellowstone National Park‘s Old Faithful, the Canyon Village area of the park offers arguably the most dramatic scenery with fewer tourists to contend with. In this “Grand Canyon of Yellowstone”, families can view yellow-tinted cliffs and the Yellowstone River at its most active at both the Upper and Lower Falls.

The best hiking and waterfall viewing is found at Lower Falls, which can be viewed by car pull-out along the North Rim Drive at Lookout Point and Red Rock Point. (South Rim Drive takes you to the Upper Falls at Artist Point.) If you’re hiking instead, take the South Rim Trail (though be advised that it is one-way), or the Brink of the Lower Falls Trail. Both offer great views of Lower Falls, which is actually longer in height than Niagara Falls. We opted to hike just 1/2 mile along the South Rim Trail, turning down steep steps to view the falls from an overlook. The entire hike, including the hike back to the car and the overlook detour, was approximately 1.5 miles…just right for a quick after-lunch excursion. The entire trail is 2.5 miles, though one-way.

Be careful on all the overlooks and trails along the canyon with young kids. The way is often steep, and the drops are severe. We never felt unsafe, but we did require our adventurous kids to stay close by. Keep to the overlooks if series of steep stairs may be too much for little legs: the way is slow and long!

A good dining option near the falls is found at Canyon Village. Skip the often-crowded soda fountain and grille for the cafeteria.

Where to stay in and near Yellowstone:

Wondering about Yellowstone lodging? If you can get reservations well in advance (think 8-9 months out), a stay at the Old Faithful Inn is iconic (though often crowded). The Lake Yellowstone Hotel is another great option, or the park offers many cabin rentals in addition to campgrounds. You will need to reserve any and all of these well in advance. For an option away from the crowds, consider Harriman State Park, on the Idaho side. Its rustic yurts and bird sanctuary provide much-needed peace!

What else not to miss:

In addition to the falls, time spent in the Madison section of the park will offer great geothermal displays, though crowds will teem here due to its proximity to Old Faithful (only 16 miles away). Another less crowded option in the park is Fishing Bridge and the Sylvan Pass area near Yellowstone Lake: the vistas are made even more beautiful here due to the lack of tourists. In our experience, Yellowstone’s West Entrance tends to get the most crowded, while the East Entrance is nearly always empty. Granted, visitors entering here will have a long drive to reach the center of the park (over 30 miles), but the way is rugged and stunning in its remoteness (just keep an eye on when the Sylvan Pass opens each spring).

No matter where you head in the park, expect slow driving on park roads, and plan to stop a time or two for wildlife viewing. During our single day in the park, we stopped for buffalo twice, a bear once, and an osprey nest (with osprey).

As I disclose whenever applicable, we are partnering with Hotels.com to bring you this post on Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon.

Fall getaways: a stay at Central Oregon’s House on Metolius

September 6, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Autumn is a great time of year to get away with your family for a quiet outdoor weekend. Central Oregon’s House on Metolius is located a few miles from Sisters, Oregon along the banks of the Metolius River. While only 45 minutes outside of Bend, you feel completely away from it all once you’ve navigated the series of small highways and forest service roads leading to the House on Metolius property and Metolius River fly fishing. Families can choose to stay in the main lodge or, as we suggest, in one of the cabins nestled nearby. Either way, you’re only steps from the river and over 200 acres of pristine wilderness.

Cabins:

We stayed in the Gorge Cabin located above the Metolius River at the Gorge. (Guess that’s where it got its name!) The cabin has two bedrooms (one with a king bed, one with two doubles) and a living room with a pull-out sofa sleeper. Families can cook at home, utilizing the dining room and full kitchen. The Gorge Cabin has one bathroom (with shower and tub), and a full-sized fireplace which we took advantage of greatly. The large back deck overlooks the river and woods, and the front opens out onto a sloping lawn with additional cabins adjacent.

The other four cabins range in size and layout. Parking is nearby, and carts are available for moving luggage (and provided firewood). Our cabin had everything we needed stocked for preparing food (all dishes, silverware, and pots and pans). Coffee and tea is available in the main lodge on most mornings at 8 am for lodge guests. All cabins are a little different, so you’ll want to consult House on Metolius staff before deciding which one works best for you.

Take a tour of the property with us:

With school-aged kids, we felt comfortable allowing the boys to run down the lawn to the latched gate that led to the river and meadows beyond, but if we had smaller kids, we’d probably restrict them to the large lawn when not accompanied by an adult (parents of toddlers will appreciate the gate). Two bridges span the river for easy access, and crossing the closest one take you to the steps to the main lodge, where a comfy sitting room invites (and hot chocolate and coffee await).

Fishing and hiking:

We loved that we could fish right on the House of Metolious property, allowing for the kids to get up before breakfast and fish until they got too hungry, or fish after dinner until dusk. This stretch of the Metolious River is fly fishing only, however, so be sure to have the proper equipment. We rented our gear and bought our fishing license at the Camp Sherman store (which also has limited groceries and a very nice wine selection) only a few miles from the property. If fly fishing is new to you, consider hiring a guide, such as John Judy Fly Fishing. If you want to bait fish instead, you can do so seven miles up-river past the Lower Bridge. We did this in addition to fly fishing, and had a great time.

A nice hike from House on Metolius to the Wizard Falls Fish Hatchery is 2.7 miles downstream; kids will love feeding the fish here (bring quarters for the machines). We spent about a half hour here before heading on. Also nearby is the around-the-lake hike at Suttle Lake, and hikers can summit Black Butte from the trailhead a few miles back on Highway 20. In summer, river rafting, kayaking, and golf are also within a short driving distance, and in winter, snowshoeing or downhill skiing at Hoodoo Ski Resort are nearby.

Date last visited: October 2012

Distance from the interstate: 5 minutes from Highway 20, or 45 minutes from Highway 97 (Bend).

Rates and amenities: At the time of our visit, lodge rooms listed at $149 and cabins ranged from $249 for a two-person cabin to over $400. The Gorge Cabin which fit our family of five listed for $299. Rates include a continental breakfast for lodge guests. Wifi is available in the cabins and lodge, though cell service is spotty. I happily turned off my phone (land lines are in the cabins).

Dining: Dinner is available most nights for an additional charge in the House on Metolius dining room, and nearby Sisters offers fun family dining. We recommend the Sisters Movie House, which shows movies in a barn and delivers burgers, wraps, and sandwiches to your seat!

Directions: Don’t bother bringing your GPS…it won’t help you find House on Metolius! Instead, follow the directions emailed to you after confirming your reservation. From Highway 20, you follow the road to Camp Sherman, then turn off on several forest service roads ending in a black gate requiring a key code (provided to overnight guests only). If you don’t follow their directions exactly, you may end up at the wrong black gate (yes, there are several of them!) and on the wrong side of the property. The good news: once you’ve arrived, you’re isolated from the ‘real world’ and ready to have a fabulous time away.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced House on Metolius as guests of the resort. This generosity came with no expectations of a positive review.

Visit Whidbey Island with kids: Exploring Coupeville

November 12, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Whidbey Island may be small, but it’s tall, as my sons have noted after a map study. When families come to visit Whidbey Island with kids, it’s useful to stay in the center of the island, within easy access of attractions such as Deception Pass to the north, and the Clinton ferry landing to the south. The best home base: Coupeville.

Coupeville WA is located within the boundaries of Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve, which means its historical buildings and landmarks have been preserved. What remains is a beautiful little town on the shore, with quaint shops, fun eateries, and a lovely pier. We recommend spending at least one full day exploring the island’s many state parks, then at least one more visiting its many farms, agricultural stands, and farm-to-table restaurants.

Every year, Whidbey Island plays host to a free farm tour. Can’t make it? That’s ok: there are Whidbey Island farms perfect for kids at any time. Start at Greenbank, located in Loveland near Coupeville in the heart of the island. Greenbank has its own organic farm school, and 151 acres of public farmland as well as historic farm buildings. Families can visit the gardens, but kids and adults alike will really love checking out the shops onsite. Kids can sample pies, farm cheese, and numerous other artisan, local food items in the farm store.

If you can’t get enough farm store goodness, make 3 Sisters Market your next stop. Operated by 3 Sisters Beef, this shop sells the sisters’ (yes, they exist and we met them!) grass-fed beef and also showcases many other farm fresh products from around the island. It’s located on Holbrook Road in Coupeville.

In the town of Coupeville, visit Lavender Wind Farm, where you can not only buy island-grown lavender products, but kids can get a feel for the many uses of this plant. Sample lavender tea, lavender cookies, and lavender lotions. Across the street, stop by Bay Leaf for an artisan sandwich and a chance to see gourmet food products from France. They also sell Penn Cove Shellfish mussels, which are harvested right on the island.

Stroll through town, and take time to walk the pier and see marine exhibits at the end. Coupeville also has a nice bookstore and toy store.

Where to stay:

In Coupeville, we stayed at Blue Goose Inn, a bed & breakfast in the heart of town. Blue Goose is comprised of two historic Victorian homes (side by side) and has beautifully appointed, comfortable rooms. The sitting rooms are historic but cozy to utilize to read a book or work on your computer (there’s wifi throughout), and the breakfast is served in a sun porch overlooking the water. The food was all homemade and primarily locally-sourced…another good hands-on lesson for kids learning about farm-to-fork eating.

If you have young kids who cannot stay in a B&B room solo (rooms are double occupancy only at Blue Goose), there is a garden suite with kitchen and more space. We also recommend the family-friendly lodge units at Captain Whidbey, an historic inn just outside of town. This property is right on the water, with beautiful grounds and an on-site dining room for a nice meal in.

Have you toured Whidbey Island? What did you like best?

Hoodoo Ski Area: family skiing in the NW

March 10, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

The motto of Central Oregon’s Hoodoo Ski Area is ‘steeper, deeper, cheaper’. After spending a full day on the mountain, we concur. Located in the Willamette National Forest about 12 miles from Sisters, Oregon, Hoodoo is only an hour from much larger (and more costly) Mt. Bachelor Ski Resort, and even in a drought year, enjoyed over 160 cm of powder the March day we visited. As for ‘steeper’, Hoodoo certainly has its challenging runs, but for us, the challenge came from the thick powder and terrain more than from sheer vertical angle. For the steepest skiing in the Northwest, we suggest Mt. Ashland Ski Area in Southern Oregon.

We visited Hoodoo on their annual Winter Carnival day, which includes wildly fun extras in the already low lift ticket price: a ‘dummy derby’ of creatively decorated sleds sent down the slope, a bonfire, games such as archery and axe throwing (yes, we competed), a pie-eating contest, and fireworks. The community spirit at this family-owned ski resort was high, but we noticed details that suggested Hoodoo is always a friendly, community-driven resort, not just during their carnival. For instance, families are encouraged to bring in outside food to most sections of the spacious lodge, creating an almost pot-luck atmosphere during meal times. Many even brought crock pots and plugged them in at the tables: a practice we’re used to coming from a small ski resort ourselves, but which is literally unheard of at large resorts. We observed many skiers and snowboarders going out of their way to assist children carrying gear, and every staff member was cheerful, friendly, and helpful.

Hoodoo offers five lifts, and no, none of them include high tech windbreak bubbles or seat warmers. This is old-school skiing, but after spending roughly half the price on lift tickets as you might at mega resorts, you won’t mind the scenic route up the mountain. Beginner terrain is accessed from Manzanita Chair and Easy Rider (a separate ticket price allows beginners to access Easy Rider all day for a discount), and intermediate skiers will find the most options off Ed Chair and Hodag Chair. The Big Green Machine takes you to the top, where a ridge and face await. We felt the black diamond runs had earned their designation, especially on a day like we had, which included heavy, choppy snow. There is a small terrain park off Manzanita Chair, but the bigger thrills for our tween and teen boys awaited them in the trees: Hoodoo offers excellent tree and glade skiing, especially around mid-mountain off Big Green Machine (there’s even an option to off-load at the half-way point of this chair).

Hoodoo offers a day care center on-site (a surprise for a small resort), dining services, and full lesson packages and rentals. The lodge is open, bright, and larger than we expected. Remember that homegrown, community feel I spoke of? It’s alive and well in other ways too: throughout the lodge, air hockey and pool tables are on offer, and there’s a fun little arcade for kids. Our boys had a blast playing games in the area adjacent to the bar while we relaxed.

It’s impossible not to notice Hoodoo’s signature rental item: the snow bikes. These skis on bike frames can be rented on-site for $30-$50, and include a 30-minute lesson to get the basics of the particular bike. If you’re brand new to snow biking, a ‘license’ is required, making the lesson and rental package $40 instead of $30. Next time we visit Hoodoo, we’ll be trying it out! Hoodoo also offers their Autobahn tubing park and miles of nordic trails. Trail tickets are $14 for adults, but on most Tuesdays and Thursdays (their non-grooming days) the trails are free.

Tips for visiting smaller Oregon ski resorts: As an Oregon resident and frequent visitor of smaller and family-owned ski resorts, I recommend keeping the following in mind:

Be sure to obtain and display an Oregon snow parks parking permit in your vehicle. Permits are only a few bucks for a single day pass, or around $20 for the season. Pick them up in the lodge, or at your accommodations.
Bring quarters for the arcade games and pool tables!
If you bring your own lunch, store it to the side of lodge areas permitting gear. Keep tables clear for others while you’re skiing. Be sure to ask whether the ski area charges a small fee for extras such as empty cups, bowls, or utensils you may need.
Keep your outerwear weatherproofed. Small ski resort chair lifts can be wet, snowy, and chilly on the bum!

Date last visited:

March 1, 2014

Distance from the interstate:

Hoodoo is located on Highway 20, about 30 minutes from Highway 97. It’s an hour and forty-five minutes from I-5 at Salem, OR.

Lift ticket rates:

At the time of our visit, adult all-day tickets sold for $45 and a child ticket was just $31. Kids five and under are always free. Night skiing is offered Friday and Saturday nights.

Lodging:

There isn’t on-site lodging at Hoodoo, but we recommend staying at Black Butte Ranch located 12 miles away near Sisters. Black Butte offers home rentals, recreation centers, dining, and kids’ programming. For a quieter stay, try Lodge at Suttle Lake.

Directions:

From Bend OR, take Highway 20 through Sisters and up the pass to Hoodoo Ski Area. From Salem Or, take Highway 20 from the opposite direction. Hoodoo is very easy to access!

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced Hoodoo Ski Area as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. While we appreciate Hoodoo’s hospitality, all opinions are our own.

Black Butte Ranch: home base for Central Oregon outdoor recreation

December 30, 2013 By Amy Hagstrom

Every time we visit Central Oregon, we discover yet another family-friendly resort. While some resorts are best for golf vacations, and others ski or luxury vacations, Black Butte Ranch just may come out on top for all-around outdoor recreation amid family-friendly conveniences.

Located just outside Sisters, Oregon (approximately 40 minutes from Bend), Black Butte Ranch is comprised primary of vacation homes and cabins, though there are some condos to be had. This large community is set on two golf courses, with a lovely lodge (housing dining), a rec building, an outdoor activity rental shop, renting bikes in summer and snowshoes and cross country skis in winter, and three pool and sport complexes. Bike paths traverse the entire property, and an on-site stable offers horseback riding in the summer months.

Without even leaving Black Butte Ranch, families can keep their days filled with outdoor activities ranging from bike riding to tennis, golf, swimming, and walking. (This may be ideal for families with young kids.) Off property, excellent mountain biking trails can be found in nearby Sisters in the Deschutes National Forest, as well as hiking trails, lake swimming and kayaking, whitewater rafting, and cave spelunking. Families can explore all of the above on their own, or use one of several tour operators in the region (our pick is Wanderlust Tours).

While many Central Oregon resorts are adjacent to outdoor recreation, Black Butte offers the most in close proximity, outside the metro area of Bend. If you’re looking to be close to Bend and Mt. Bachelor, Black Butte is not the most convenient, but if you plan to spend full days in the Deschutes National Forest and have less need for an easy commute to Bend, this is the place!

We visited in early winter, and while we brought our snowshoes, the necessary six inches of snow wasn’t yet on the ground to permit the sport on Black Butte property. Good thing Hoodoo Ski Area is only 13 miles away. When Hoodoo isn’t up and running (this resort does not make its own snow, and depends on Mother Nature), Mt. Bachelor is less than one hour away by car. We spent one day enjoying the pool and walking paths of the resort, and the other at Mt. Bachelor at our visit, with evening entertainment ranging from dinner and a movie in Sisters (more on that below) and a quiet evening in our vacation home.

Vacation Houses:

We stayed in a beautiful three-bedroom home in Black Butte Ranch that backed right up to national forest service land, allowing our boys plenty of room to play. Our home had a full kitchen, of course, as well as a full washer and dryer, lots of storage space for our skis (or golf clubs in summer), a private hot tub, a wide deck overlooking the forest, and a cozy fireplace. It served as the perfect home base for outdoor recreation, and when we wanted to stay ‘closer to home’, swimming and exercise facilities were a five minute drive away.

Resort amenities:

There are no fewer than three recreation centers at Black Butte. The biggest is at Glaze Meadow, which includes tennis courts, a fitness facility (with exercise classes), a large outdoor pool and toddler splash pad area (open in summer), a large indoor pool with slide (open year-round), hot tubs, and steam room. The Black Butte spa is also located on-site. Also at Glaze Meadow is a large children’s playground with a fun rock climbing structure.

The Black Butte Stables are open during the summer months, and at the main lodge area, summer offers bike rentals. A basketball court is located near the main lodge (as is a rec barn with small arcade). A small general store is also on-site, plus sports shops at Glaze Meadow and the golf clubhouses.

Dining:

We loved breakfast at the Black Butte Ranch Lodge dining room! Eat around 9 am, and you’ll be full until dinner! From blueberry pancakes to salmon and dill omelets, breakfast is served in the lodge dining room overlooking the lake for wonderful views in every season. The dining room is also open for lunch and dinner year-round. Tip: Call the dining room and order take-and-bake pizza, which can be picked up and baked in your vacation home. Pizzas are $11-15, large in size, and very convenient!

During the summer months, several additional dining options exist at the golf clubhouses, and in winter, guests can opt between the lodge dining room and the Glaze Meadow Golf Shop. Families will most likely cook most of their own food in vacation home kitchens (grab groceries at the Ray’s in Sisters), but good family-friendly dining also exists off-property. Our picks: the dining room at The Lodge at Suttle Lake (10 minutes away) and Bronco Bill’s in Sisters (10 minutes in the other direction). If you head into Sisters for dinner, consider buying tickets to the Sisters Movie Housefor an unique movie experience. This intimate theater serves high-quailty snacks and even IPA brews and local wines.

Rates:

Nightly rates vary greatly at Black Butte Ranch (depending on the size of your vacation home or condo). Start by perusing Black Butte’s great package deals. We sampled the ’Pray for Snow’ package, which included lift tickets to Hoodoo, movie tickets to Sisters Movie House, and a Black Butte Ranch credit (which we used for pizza). Deals abound in every season.

Directions:

Black Butte Ranch is located on Highway 20 ten minutes outside of Sisters, Oregon. It is 45 minutes from Bend and 2 hours from Salem, Oregon.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced Black Butte Ranch as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Old Trail Town Cody Wyoming

August 14, 2013 By Amy Hagstrom

Cody, Wyoming is bursting with family-friendly historical sites. Not to be overlooked is Old Trail Town Cody Wyoming. While this Cody attraction won’t take families as long to tour as the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, it makes for a worthy hour of exploration.

Each of the 26 historic buildings in Trail Town are authentic dwellings from the 1850s-1910s, brought to Cody from all corners of Wyoming, Utah, and Montana, among other states. As a collection, they’re impressive enough, but each interior has been reconstructed to replicate life during the respective era. There’s a blacksmith shop, saloon, homesteading cabins, fur-trading cabins, and barns. Visitors can even walk into the Hole in the Wall cabin of Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid fame, and see bullet holes in the door of the saloon.

Of particular interest to us at Trail Town was the graveyard, which includes the grave of Jeremiah Johnson and other Western mountain men and women. A small museum houses letters written home from ranchers, fur trappers, and settlers, and Native American artifacts from the region. The whole property will take families approximately 1-2 hours to tour, depending on age of kids and interest level.