I-15 - Pitstops for Kids

The way to see Grand Teton National Park with kids: OARS Jackson Lake 2-Day Trip

June 28, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

When I knew my family and I would be spending time in Jackson Hole, Wyoming and Grand Teton National Park, I immediately looked for an OARS trip to take in the area. After our five-day Rogue River rafting trip with OARS, it was the easy choice. OARS is just that good at what they do.

I’ve already talked about what sets OARS apart. In a nutshell, the guides are professionals but also become friends, the service and food is phenomenal, and the overall experience ensures a stress-free, family-bonding time for everyone. Check it out:

OARS’ 2-day Jackson Lake kayak trip departs and returns to and from Signal Mountain boat dock on Jackson Lake, in the heart of Grand Teton National Park (you’ll need to pay the $20 park fee to get there).

Day 1:

Day 1 takes families across open water to lunch at Marie Island, then approximately five more miles across to Grassy Island, in the shadow of Mount Moran. OARS is the only concessionaire with a permit to camp on Jackson Lake, ensuring we were all alone, within a hairsbreath of the Teton range. We arrived and set up camp around 4:30 pm, leaving plenty of time to splash in the water, read a book, or play a card game before appetizers. Yes, appetizers.

Dinner consisted of hearty burritos with fresh, homemade salsa (the veggies and herbs chopped up in front of us). For dessert…birthday brownie: one of the two six-year-olds on our trip was celebrating his big day. We camped under the stars (in OARS’ supplied tents), and a campfire with our fellow kayakers.

Day 2:

On Day 2, it’s all about exploring the Tetons from the vantage point of the water and trails. We broke camp after a leisurely breakfast of French toast and bacon, and hit the water around 10 am. We paddled to Bearpaw Bay, where we caught the trail to Bearpaw Lake and Leigh Lake. This two-mile hike doesn’t include much elevation gain, which meant even the youngest in our group could navigate it, while the rest of us still found it to be a decent length.

After a swim in Leigh with a picnic lunch, we paddled on to Spalding camp, on the mainland overlooking the Tetons. Once again, our campsite was our own, thanks to OARS’ exclusivity. We BBQed burgers for dinner (and when I say ‘we’, I mean our amazing OARS crew) and settled in for riddles and games of Uno around the campfire.

Day 3:

We broke camp on Day 3 around 9 am, and paddled at a leisurely pace back to the boat dock, none of us anxious to arrive! I asked my kids: how does the kayak trip compare with an OARS whitewater rafting trip? Calvin (age 13) said the two simply couldn’t be compared, but loved both. Before our kayak adventure, he feared the trip would be too tame, with perhaps too much downtime. We found this to be untrue. While a whitewater trip packs more adrenaline-inducing excitement, the kayak trip requires more muscle and includes just as much sightseeing. On both trips, we had stellar guides (shout out to Nate, Marcus, and Max this time around!).

Things to know before you go:

On any OARS trip, it’s very important to have the right clothing and gear. The weather is all over the map in the Tetons, so bring layers. If you follow the packing list, you’ll be fine. We were especially glad to have long underwear for night, and light gloves and hats for brisk mornings. OARS supplied us with splash jackets (like rain jackets) for use in the kayaks, and tents. When you book a trip, you have the option of bringing your own sleep kit, or renting one of theirs. Our recommendation: bring your own sleeping bag if you have one rated to 20 degrees, but opt to rent their sleeping pads. They’re thick and puffy, and you’ll be glad you did!

On our previous OARS trip, beer, wine, and soda were included. On this trip, soda was available, but beer and wine was BYO. If you hand over your wine and beer to the crew, they’ll keep it chilled for you! We all shared during the trip, which was a nice touch.

Bring a few small games or other entertainment for camp time. We like to bring a deck of cards and books or Kindles. Leave iPods or gaming devices at home or in the car. We had cell service for most of the trip, but without anywhere to charge phones, it was easier to leave those in the car as well.

In short, OARS is able to access a part of Jackson Lake and Grand Teton you otherwise wouldn’t be able to see, and show it to you in a way that allows for family togetherness, relaxation, and carefree fun. Pair it with 2-3 additional nights in the park or adjacent Yellowstone National Park, and know you’ll be in good hands!

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced this OARS trip as guests of the company, for the purpose of review. All opinions are our own.

Guide to Las Vegas with kids: family-friendly Las Vegas vacation

June 1, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

There was a time when I didn’t think of Las Vegas as a family-friendly trip idea, but in the past few years, Vegas hotels and attractions have made strides to be more kid-oriented. Whether your family trip focuses on Las Vegas entertainment, outdoor recreation, or dining (or all of the above), the following advice can help make your trip to Sin City much more wholesome.

During this time of uncertainty, outdoor activities offer the best ability to safely social distance. Hotels.com asked me to share my favorite activities and tips for exploring Las Vegas, so start here as you plan a safe and responsible vacation.

Where to stay:

Families will want to compare hotel prices in Las Vegas, but to find Las Vegas hotels that focus on kids, you’ll also want to look closely at amenities. Sure, Circus Circus is known for their big-top attraction, but families can easily visit their AdventureDome during a day trip. Better to find a hotel with a great pool, family-friendly dining, and preferably, no smoking. Think a family-friendly oasis is impossible to find in Vegas? It’s not! Our picks: the Westgate Las Vegas, or the Four Seasons Las Vegas and the Marriott Vacation Club Grand Chateau, both non-gaming luxury hotels.

Take day trips off the Strip:

Many parents (myself included, our first stay) make the mistake of walking along the Strip during the daytime. They believe it will be ‘tamer’, with less drinking and drunken people during the daylight hours. Unfortunately, this is not the case, and instead, families are subjected to the same number of drunken individuals, made worse by the fact that it’s only 11 am. In fact, seeing so much day drinking is downright depressing. Instead, take a day trip outside the Strip during the day.

Our picks:

Red Rock Canyon
Grand Canyon
Hoover Dam

Come back to your hotel by around 5 pm, clean up, and head out with the kids from 6 pm to 10 pm. You’ll see all the neon and lights, the glitz and the glamour of the Strip, but before it gets truly rowdy. This is a great opportunity to eat out at an innovative, fun restaurant before its most crowded time period, then take in a kid-friendly show or attraction, like the Bellagio water show or a ride on the New York New York roller coaster.

Where to eat:

Las Vegas has experienced a culinary renaissance of sorts in the past five years. Families can find top tier dining all over the city, but if you’re not looking for a four-diamond experience with kids, we recommend something different: the Tournament of Kings located in Excalibur. Families enjoy entertainment along with their meal (which is kid-friendly meat and potatoes fare) and adults will have fun, too. For something less extensive, try the Rainforest Cafe in the MGM Grand.

Need casual food options? Check these out:

Bobby’s Burger Palace: on the South Strip, near Aria
Snack Shack, outside New York New York
Miracle Mile shops (Chipotle, Earl of Sandwich, more)
Town Square (south of Mandalay Bay)

What to see:

Entertainment abounds in Vegas, but what to see with kids? Our top picks are the Comedy Pet Theater at Planet Hollywood or sea-life viewing at the Mandalay Bay Shark Reef Aquarium. If in doubt, treat kids to an evening at any number of high-end, extensive video game arcades along the strip. Some shops along the Strip are kid-friendly, like the World of M&Ms and Adidas store. Learn more about things to do in Vegas with kids.

Shows to catch while in town:

Blue Man Group: art, music, non-verbal performing…it’s hard to describe but stunning.
Penn and Teller: We love that these magicians are also funny…very funny.
Ka by Cirque du Soleil: the ultimate in circus performing arts, martial arts, acrobatics, and puppetry. In other words, something for everyone.
Tournament of Kings: Located in the Excalibur, this dinner theater showcases dueling knights and lots of action.
Recycled Percussion: this ‘junk rock’ performance allows the audience to play along on pots, pans, sinks, etc.

Arcades and attractions for older kids:

The arcade at New York New York is extensive, as is the Midway arcade in Circus Circus. GameWorks Las Vegas is located next to the MGM Grand. The Luxor’s Games of the Gods arcade is one of the best for virtual rides and interactive gaming experiences. Want an old-fashioned midway instead? Head to Circus Circus, the Excalibur Fantasy Fair Midway, or the Strat-o-Fair at the Stratosphere Hotel.

We really enjoyed the New York New York roller coaster, but be warned: you have to walk all the way through the extensive arcade to get to the ride entrance. If you don’t like heights, the location of the coaster, with the rail suspended outside the hotel’s skyscraper, might just do you in before the vertical drops and inverted loops do!

The Stratosphere Sky Wheel is tamer, or on the opposite end of the scale, the hotel hosts a whole slew of terrifying-looking rides on the tower. For families with older kids, the Vegas Indoor Skydiving allows families to ‘fly’ together in wind tunnels. (Except to pay dearly, however).

If you want to make an entire afternoon of it, head to the AdventureDome at Circus Circus (you may want to take a cab to this very North Strip hotel). Inside, you’ll find roller coasters, kiddie rides, a midway experience…basically a theme park inside a dome. Check ticketing options to get the best deal for your group…paying a la carte would add up!

Photo credit: Aigle Dore.

We worked in conjunction with hotels.com to bring you the best of Las Vegas. All opinions are our own.

SaveSave

Zion National Park in winter

February 25, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Before I visited Zion National Park in winter, I pictured the famed slot canyons and rock formations of the park buried in snow, with park amenities shuttered for the season and the adjacent town of Springdale hard to access on wintery roads. I could not have been more wrong. Thanks to it’s low elevation and Southern Utah location near St. George, Zion National Park in winter is completely accessible, and often warmer than you’d think.

As we arrived from a weekend of skiing at Brian Head and Eagle Point (yes, you can ski and hike on the same road trip!), we rolled our windows down as we approached the park from Highway 9. It was a balmy 50 degrees when we entered the artsy, scenic town of Springdale, and inside the park, just enough snow dotted the ground and clung to the red rock to be picturesque but not problematic.

What to do in Zion National Park in winter:

The short answer: pretty much everything you’d do in summer, but without the crowds. We hiked several trails that are usually highly impacted during the warm weather months, encountering only a handful of other people. During the winter, the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive can be done by car; in summer, you must take the shuttle. Most of the hikes that start from points along the drive are open during the winter months, too, which makes Zion National Park your personal playground in December, January, and February.

Hike The Narrows in winter:

Hiking The Narrows was the highlight of our Zion winter trip. While we loved The Narrows in summer, going in winter is an entirely different experience. Start at Zion Outfitter, located at the entrance of the park by the visitor center. These guys can set you up with dry suits, special river shoes, and booties, which you’ll definitely want for the Narrows in winter. For $45/person, you get dry bibs (that go chest high), Adidas HydroLace canyoneering boots, neoprene socks, and a wooden hiking stick. For a little less, you can opt for waist high pants.

Note: you can rent the boots and socks in summer too, which I now realize would work better than the Keens we wore last time!

You can arrange for a guide to go with you in The Narrows, but families can also do it solo, provided you check the weather and conditions first at the visitor center. The Narrows are known for flash floods, which can happen any time of the year. To get to the river, go up Zion Canyon Scenic Drive to the last stop, Temple of Sinawava. You’ll take a paved trail for one mile, which ends at a good entrance to the Virgin River. During our visit, the trail was icy, so go slowly if needed, and be aware of icicles and potential falling ice above you.

Once in the river, make your way at will, sticking to the shallow spots as desired. The entire way up The Narrows to where it splits with Orderville Canyon takes a couple hours (it’s about 3.5 miles), but families can stop anytime; it’s an out-and-back. Take care to keep your upper body dry; water WILL pour into your dry suit from the top of the bib if you go too deep. Otherwise, the dry suit set up kept us very dry and comfortable.

Note: the canyoneering shoes WILL let in water; this is normal, and the reason for the wetsuit-like sock.

The Narrows in winter are truly magical: the snow and ice contrast with the red rock and water with such beauty, you’ll want your camera out at all times. And unlike in summer, when you’re wading through the river with crowds of people, you may have the river to yourself. I found myself completely alone more than once in the canyon.

Additional hikes:

The easy hikes along the scenic drive, including the Grotto Trail and Weeping Rock Trail are usually open in winter, but be aware that they may be icy. Bring extra traction for your hiking boots, like YakTraks, and you should be ok. While we were at Zion, we also did the Canyon Overlook Trail, which is located just past the tunnel within the park (take a right at the ‘Y’). Canyon Overlook offers big views for little effort; the whole hike is less than 1.5 miles, and though fairly strenuous, includes features that will be fun for kids, like stair climbs, overhangs, and wooden planks. Just take care with young kids as there are drop-offs along the trail, though the end overlook does feature a railing.

While we were at Canyon Overlook, a park ranger also recommended Sand Bench trail to us in winter. The Sand Bench Loop starts at the Court of the Patriarchs shuttle stop and is roughly 3.5 miles (round trip). From the shuttle stop, take the hikers’ bridge across the Virgin River. The trail crosses a stream, then continues past a landslide area from the ’90s. You gain elevation of about 500 feet, much lower than any hikes to the canyon rims. Plan to encounter sand, but as a winter bonus, it may be frozen or at least hardened.

Where to stay at Zion National Park in winter:

We have stayed at Cliffrose Lodge in both summer and winter, and love this property. See why it’s great for families here. The Cliffrose has been family-owned for many years, and the owners are committed to the area, putting money back into their property, and elevating the tourism experience in Springdale and Zion National Park. The lodge is just outside the park boundary next to the visitor center, and the view out of every window is fantastic. In summer, the gardens and access to the river turn the Cliffrose into an extension of the park for outdoor play, and in winter, the open, elegant lobby beckons. A full restaurant is slated to open in 2017, as well.

In winter, three outdoor hot tubs are at your disposal (in summer, there’s also a spacious pool), and a breakfast-in-bed (in room) menu is available for $10/person. Cliffrose suites are perfect for larger families, as they have two bedrooms separated by a full kitchen and dining area, with balcony or patio.

Where to eat in Springdale:

Springdale, the tiny town at the entrance of the park, is unlike any other ‘national park town’ I’ve experienced. It’s a destination in its own right, with art galleries, eateries, and specialty shops hugging Highway 9 against the backdrop of jaw-dropping canyons. From the Cliffrose, you’re only a few blocks from just about everything. The following restaurants are our favorites, with a few we haven’t tried added in that have been recommended by locals:

9 East: this upscale Italian and Mediterranean bistro has been opened by a recent executive chef from Las Vegas
The Spotted Dog: American bistro fare
Bit ‘n Spur: upscale Southwestern/Mexican hybrid cuisine
Oscars
Kings Landing

How to extend your Zion National Park trip in winter:

I recommend staying in Springdale at least three days in winter to enjoy both the town and the park, then extending your stay in Southern Utah to include Bryce Canyon National Park or a Southern Utah ski resort. Brian Head resort is only about an hour away, where families can snowmobile, ski, and snowboard to round out an adventurous vacation.

Pin it for later:

I was a guest of the Cliffrose and Zion Outfitter for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.

Bryce Canyon National Park in winter

February 24, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’ve been to Bryce Canyon in summer, you know this national park is incredibly scenic, and also incredibly crowded. Even the ‘shoulder’ seasons of late spring and early fall are becoming congested with tourists. But come in the heart of winter, and you’ll have this playground of natural wonders to yourself.

Things to do in Bryce Canyon National Park in winter:

Much of Bryce Canyon stays open year round. With an elevation of around 7000 feet, families may or may not encounter snow; we did, on our trip, but I was told it varies by season. If there is snow, it’s possible to cross country ski or snowshoe in and around the park, and of course if you encounter dry ground, hiking is an option. Just keep an open mind and be flexible.

Start at Ruby’s:

On the north end of the park, just outside the boundary, lies Ruby’s Inn, which is actually an entire complex consisting of a activities center, wild west dinner show venue, restaurants, and hotel rooms. Reuben (Ruby) and Minnie Syrett arrived in the area in 1916 and founded Ruby’s in 1923. It’s owned by the family to this day.

If you need a place to stay overnight, Ruby’s has clean, basic hotel rooms on the edge of the park, but it’s a great stop if you’re in Bryce Canyon just for the day, too. In winter, Ruby’s offers a winter sports center with an ice skating rink, a nordic track with six miles of trails (which connects to more in the national park) and cross-country ski and skate rentals.

We rented skis and took to the nordic track, which curves around the Ruby’s complex to the edge of the canyon. After just a 15 minute ski, you are rewarded with amazing views of Bryce. I suggest taking the two mile loop with kids; cross-country skiing is not hard to learn and a fun way to see Bryce in the snow.

The restaurant at Ruby’s is adjacent, and has a family-friendly buffet at both breakfast and lunch, as well as a menu to order off of. At very low crowd time periods, such as when we visited, they may not offer the buffet, but will still have a full sale and soup bar. Ruby’s is not fine dining, by any means, but a solid choice for feeding the family. Next to the restaurant is an extensive store, where you can pick up souvenirs but also groceries, winter clothing, and anything else you may have forgotten.

See Bryce Canyon with an expert with Bryce Valley Tours:

You’ll have Bryce Canyon to yourself in the winter, but you may not know where to go or what you’re seeing. We had the opportunity to see the park with John of Bryce Valley Tours, who accompanied us on our ski trek and explained the geological history of the canyon as we skied. John also offers half-day and full-day tours, which can be tailored to your family’s interests. Half-day tours are $75/pp, which I think is a good value for the opportunity to have an expert guide you who knows which parts of accessible in snow, which are closed in winter, and the like.

Stop at the visitor’s center:

The Bryce Canyon visitor’s center is located directly past the entrance, and is small but worth the stop. The exhibit area explains the geological history of the canyon’s rock formations, including the hoodoos you’ll see everywhere. Get the kids their Junior Ranger booklets, and get stamps in your national park passports.

Drive to the most scenic lookouts in the park:

Bryce Canyon is a park that’s big on views. The major lookouts are all open in the winter, even in snow. Drive in and check out Inspiration Point—trust me, it’s aptly named—and Swamp Canyon. The latter is much more stunning than the name suggests. At each of these lookouts, short hiking trails are available. When we visited, the snow was several feet deep, but they were still open, albeit difficult to navigate. If you decide to walk a bit, be careful of your footing, as you ARE on the edge of a canyon. Snowshoes would help.

Tips for visiting Bryce Canyon National Park in winter:

Call the park ahead of your trip to stay up-to-date on any road closures or closed exhibits; this is the off-season.
Be prepared for any type of weather; you could get snow or sun. Make sure everyone in your group has winter boots, waterproof pants, a hat, gloves, and jacket. You don’t want to get caught off-guard and have to buy all this at Ruby’s!
If there IS snow, try snowshoeing to get around on the trails.
Wear sunscreen; the high elevation causes people to burn easily if the sun is out.
Hydrate and go slowly at elevation until you’ve acclimated. Check out our tips for adjusting to high elevations.

Backcountry skiing basics: How to get into the sport

December 2, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

It’s never been a better time to get into the backcountry and leave the crowds behind! Here’s how to get into the sport during the COVID season!

An avid downhill skier and snowshoer, I’ve been noting the small but growing trend toward backcountry skiing for some time now. This sport, which combines a love of nordic exploration and downhill excitement, attracts men and women (and yes, some kids) who want to carve their own line down mountain terrain and explore the wilderness at the same time.

I got my first pair of backcountry skis in 2012, which were basically fat nordic skis with a three-pin binding. I found I could navigate single-track nordic trails with steep inclines much better than my nordic skier counterparts, and I was hooked. Today, all-terrain (or AT) ski gear is much more involved, but AT skiing is still a fairly diverse term. Just like the sport itself, it can mean something different to every enthusiast, from short hikes up to freshies from lift-accessed runs to full-day expeditions with beacons and probes.

In January, I was lucky enough to experience the sport in more depth, this time trying out top-of-the-line AT skis, boots, and bindings on a half-day, strenuous backcountry ski day in Utah’s Cottonwood Canyon near Solitude Mountain Resort.

I headed out with Utah Mountain Adventures after getting outfitted with Voile skis with Dynafit bindings and Scarpa AT boots. I carried a backpack with plenty of water, plus a shovel and avalanche probe. I strapped an avalanche beacon, provided by Utah Mountain Adventures, to my body.

The only way to get fresh powder runs was to climb uphill, so my first lesson was in putting on skins. Turns out, this is easy. The hard part is to climb upslope. We climbed for over two hours, stopping for a few breaks, skinning up a mountainside in the Wasatch Mountains. I’d like to say I enjoyed the whole experience, but in truth, by hour two, I was sweating enough to shed a layer and starting to feel hot spots (which turned into blisters) where my socks rubbed in my boots. I was told to loosen my AT boots for the uphill climb (there’s a walk mode and ski mode), and while I’m sure this is sound advice, it didn’t help on the blister front.

The whole uphill experience reminded me of hiking: there were periods of enjoyment while I took in breathtaking views and reveled in being in the wilderness in winter, but also periods during which I had to set tiny goals–get to the next tree, get to the next open slope–in order to carry on. In other words, it’s crucial to love the outdoors and the uphill ‘hiking’ process, or the joys of backcountry skiing may be lost on you.

Climbing in AT skis is not very difficult–it’s much like cross-country skiing–but there are moments when kick turns may be necessary to zig-zag along steep grades. Yes, there’s a learning curve to this, but here’s what I was told (and it helped): use as much of the flat plane of your ski base as possible. Staying on your edges, where you don’t have skins, won’t help you keep traction.

Once we’d summited a peak in Cottonwood Canyon, the fun began. We took off our skins, stowed them in our packs, and switched our boots and bindings to downhill mode. (Dynafit bindings are unique in that they transition from climbing mode, with the heel untethered, to downhill mode, with the heel locked down just like alpine skiing, with one twist of the back binding. They also feature ‘risers’ that can be raised while in climbing mode, which assist on steep ascents, much like going a gear lower on a bike. Yes, they’re nifty.)

We picked our line for the descent, and carved down the beautiful, light powder. Thanks to the efforts of our uphill hike, the terrain wasn’t skied out like it quickly becomes on lift-accessed terrain. I happily followed the lead of our guide, who knew the area and how to traverse through the glades and open slopes and still find our starting point back at base. Without him, I would have needed a GPS in unfamiliar territory.

Raised in the deep powder of Tahoe, skiing off-piste before I knew what that meant, I loved every second of the descent. Yes, it was challenging, but also very satisfying, knowing I’d earned my turns. I never needed my beacon, but was glad for the security it offered. Back at the base of the mountain, I switched my skis back to climb mode, and ‘cross-country skied’ my way back to the car on flat terrain. The sun was setting by the time we returned, and trust me, I’d earned my pizza and beer.

What you’ll need to get started in AT skiing:

AT or telemark skis (these are the skis I tried)
AT or telemark boots (the most comfortable seem to be Dynafit)
any ski poles
backpack
shovel, probe, and beacon
breathable outerwear
plenty of layers (wool is best)

Tips for beginners (like me):

I recommend going with a guide, like I did, your first time out (or any time out in an unfamiliar area). Most guide services can also rent AT skis and boots, which are expensive to buy yourself at first. More importantly, guides know where to go and are trained in avalanche safety (check to make sure!).

Any time out in the backcountry, everyone in your party should carry a beacon and shovel, at very least. I fell once during my trip, and lost one ski. It was deeply buried almost instantly, and had it been me, I would have been glad for my beacon, guiding others to me. Luckily, I found the ski without needing my shovel. If you go out without a guide, you should have completed an avalanche safety course. They are offered almost everywhere now, from gear stores to ski resorts.

If you haven’t explored winter terrain at all yet, start by snowshoeing or cross-country skiing. Hit trails you’re familiar with in the summer months; they’ll have a different feel in winter! Alternatively, try backcountry skiing from lift-accessed terrain. At any ski resort, look at a terrain map to see where off-piste (or non-groomed) terrain is located. Make sure it’s open the morning of your ski, and then climb only from the top of a lift (shortening your ‘hike’). Yes, others will have the same idea, so make this one of your first few runs of the day. Afterward, relax with some cruisers. Some resorts, such as Keystone Mountain in Colorado, even offer cat rides to off-piste terrain, allowing skiers to find fresh powder without AT gear.

Can kids AT ski? Sure, though it’s currently hard to find skis and boots to fit kids under age 12 or so. There’s a reason for this: AT skiing is a lot of work. My recommendation (that I’m following with my own kids): introduce the idea of backcountry exploration when kids are small, with snowshoe treks. Then, graduate to AT skiing when kids are teens. Make sure they’re expert skiers on groomed terrain, too.

Can snowboarders AT ‘ski’? Yes, Voile and other makers are now creating split snowboards, which split into two short ‘skis’ for the uphill climb, then come together to create a board for the downhill. It’s the coolest transformer yet!

I’ve heard the argument that AT skiing is popular because skiers can avoid the high cost of lift tickets. While this is true, and while I do think most lift ticket prices have gotten out-of-hand, I don’t think true AT ski lovers climb miles of terrain for this savings. It’s simply too much work to do it for any reason but a love of the outdoors and the sense of freedom. It’s a way to challenge oneself outside of the ski resorts, and well worth the effort of learning a new discipline within alpine skiing.

I toured the Wasatch with Utah Mountain Adventures at no cost, for the purpose of testing AT ski gear.

Road Trip Travel Hack: Stay nights at KOA Kampgrounds!

July 24, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

We love to review destination hotels and resorts, but let’s face it: roadside motels booked solely for the purpose of an overnight pit stop en route on a road trip are usually nothing to write home about. Plus, an average motel stay is now over $100 per night. In the last year or so, we’ve been thinking outside the box (or motel room) and booking cabin, yurt, or campground stays instead.

I know what you’re thinking: you don’t want to pack everything needed for a camping overnight during your road trip, right? And you’re not keen on the dirt and work involved, just for one night. But wait, we have a solution: campgrounds with cabins.

Many state parks and wildlife reserves have wonderful cabin or yurt options (check out this one right outside Yellowstone National Park), and most well-traveled interstates and highways now have KOA Kampgrounds en route. A number of years ago, I would not have considered staying at a KOA. But times truly have changed. We stayed at our first KOA in a decade two years ago, while traveling through Oregon to Mt. Hood in winter. We needed a low-cost, fun, and friendly place to stay the night, and a KOA cabin in Redmond fit the bill. Last week, we repeated the process, staying at a KOA cabin in Mountain Home, Idaho en route to Wyoming. Both of these cabins were listed as one of their standard options, which include electricity, heat, and beds for 4-6 people. They are not deluxe, and meals need to be cooked outside the cabin. Bathrooms are located in a different building close by.

For us, standard cabins work just fine. We usually have our own sleeping bags with us, and when we’re road tripping, we like to grab dinner out and eat a simple breakfast in our cabin that doesn’t require a kitchen. The Mountain Home and Redmond KOAs offered room to run around for the kids, a friendly community atmosphere, and the basic supplies we needed, like groceries, sunscreen, and bug spray in their stores. Some KOA locations aren’t anything special, but I’ve never experienced one that did not include a friendly, welcoming staff and clean amenities. The rate is about half that of a motel room.

But what if you don’t want to rough it?

Try a KOA Deluxe Kabin! On our same Wyoming road trip, we stayed at the Jackson Hole/Snake River KOA in Jackson, and upgraded to a cabin with two rooms, a bathroom, and a full kitchen. Our cabin was located right on the Snake River, and when we arrived, the kids could immediately go play while we unloaded. We could cook our own dinner (the kitchen includes everything but an oven, and there’s a great BBQ, too) and sit outside at night, watching the stars come out instead of being stuck in a small motel room.

At KOA Jackson Hole/Snake River, there’s guided river rafting on-site, and in late summer, when the Snake River is running less rapidly, families can rent inner tubes to float down the river right next to the campground. The tent sites are located right on the banks (try to get site #1 for the best creekside playing) and the deluxe cabins overlook the river on higher ground. You can also opt for a standard cabin at this location, of course. We loved the friendly staff, and the fun activities on-site for kids. For instance: if kids find one of the painted rocks on property, they can turn it in for free ice cream!

Deluxe cabins are as nice as you’d expect from an upscale rental home booking. Who knew? But be aware: these cabins can cost as much as, or more than, a motel room. It’s important to decide what your vacation goals are. If you’re booking primarily for budget reasons, opt for a standard cabin, and if you’re booking primarily for the outdoor experience instead of a motel experience, upgrade to a deluxe. Not all KOAs offer both, but you can get a good indication of the range of options by checking out the Jackson Hole camping cabin page.

What KOAs have you stayed in? Have your tried a cabin? We’d love your recommendations!

Skiing in Utah: Eagle Point ski vacation planning

January 16, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

When planning a ski vacation in Utah, families are spoiled for choice. There are over a dozen major resorts in the Salt Lake City area alone, and many of them are probably on your radar. We love Salt Lake ski resorts, but before you make the decision to head to one of the big destination resorts of Utah, consider a little gem in the southern end of the state.

What is Eagle Point, where is it, and why should we go there?

Ready to get your Eagle Point ski vacation planning on? Eagle Point is a small, boutique ski resort just outside of Beaver, Utah. It’s about three hours’ drive from Las Vegas and Salt Lake City, depending on which way you’re coming on I-15, followed by a winding, steep access road that you’ll want to ascend in the daylight. I’m using the word ‘boutique’ in the sense that Eagle Point is small, personalized, and niche, not that it’s upscale…because it’s not. In fact, it’s delightfully rustic, with a rough-around-the-edges feel that makes me think of my childhood ski trips.

Why bring your family all the way to Eagle Point? The easy answer would be, price. Families can still ski Eagle Point for under $50 for an adult lift ticket (around $30 for kids), and the resort’s ski-in, ski-out condos are incredibly affordable. You could spend a week at Eagle Point for a fraction of the cost of a week at a larger ski resort. But an affordable price is not the full story.

Eagle Point is a resort that still retains the friendly, everyone-knows-each-other, hey-welcome-back atmosphere that’s been lost in many places. When you arrive at the check in desk at Canyonside Lodge, you might just be checked in by one of the resort’s enthusiastic owners, and the friendly waitress at the bar just might be your ski instructor the next day. The relatively small staff all know each other and seem to interact like family, and the small size of the resort means your kids will feel right at home in no time.

Lodging at Eagle Point:

I stayed at a condo in Wooded Ridge, which is one of the condo development options at Eagle Point. There are a few full houses to rent, but otherwise, Eagle Point is all condos, many of which are ski-in, ski-out, or close to it. A free shuttle goes back and forth between condos and both base areas every 20 minutes.

My condo slept at least five; we had a bedroom downstairs and a loft with bunk beds for three. It also had a full kitchen and living room with dining space, and ample storage space for ski gear. I loved the views of aspen trees from the outdoor balconies, and the fact that the kitchen was fully stocked with spices, cooking oil, all the pots and pans needed, a crock pot, a dishwasher with detergent, and a full-sized washer and dryer (also with detergent).

Tip: If you want to be close to Canyonside Lodge and its dining options and hot tubs, book a Canyonside area condo. You’ll be ski-in, ski-out on the Canyonside part of the resort. If anyone in your family is a beginner, however, you’ll want to start at Skyline, which will require a shuttle ride (this is explained in more depth below).

At Eagle Point, you’ll cook in your condo most of the time, so definitely stop in Beaver to buy groceries before coming up the mountain. There’s not much in the way of provisions once you’re at Eagle Point, with the exception of a small mercantile and a few dining venues (more on that in a minute). Condo renters have access to two hot tubs, which are outside behind Canyonside Lodge. There are bathrooms to change there, and a fireplace in the dining area where you can warm up after soaking.

Note: There is very limited cell service and no wifi at Eagle Point. I am told wifi is coming in 2018, but for now, plan to be off-line during your stay. Time to get out the board games!

Skiing at Eagle Point:

Eagle Point, like many Utah ski resorts, has two distinct sections, each with its own base area. The Canyonside Lodge, where you check in to your lodging, is the gateway to the expert terrain, served by Lookout lift, and a few miles up the road, the Skyline Lodge is where you’ll find the beginner and intermediate terrain, as well as the ski rentals and lessons. You’ll use the Skyline chair and Monarch chair on that side.

A ski tunnel connects the two sides, and there is a small amount of intermediate runs off Lookout chair, though not as many as we’d like. Everyone in your family really needs to be an expert skier or rider to have fun together for more than a few runs on Lookout. Gates off Lookout lead to backcountry terrain, in cooperation with the forest service, so that’s an option for expert skiers who are prepared to go outside the resort boundary.

Because the Skyline Lodge is at the TOP of the Skyline area and the Canyonside Lodge is at the bottom of the Canyonside area, getting from Canyonside to Skyline requires a shuttle ride. (You can, however, get from Skyline to the Canyonside Lodge on intermediate terrain, through the tunnel followed by a lift.) This would come in handy if the family divided up in the morning and wanted to meet for lunch.) From the Skyline side, it’s possible to ski down to most condos in the resort.

Note: Eagle Point is conservative about grooming runs. The Skyline area with beginner and intermediate terrain will all be groomed, but during my visit, only a few runs were groomed on Canyonside. This makes for a lot of non-groomed black diamonds.

Dining at Eagle Point:

For ski lunches and even breakfast, if you don’t prepare it in your condo, Skyline Lodge has the Skyline Cafe, which serves your basic ski fare. We found three options on the breakfast menu, plus coffee and drinks, and another handful of options at lunch. It’s counter service only. At Canyonside Lodge, the Outpost Grill has a full bar and dining room, with moderate pricing for burgers, wraps, and pizza, and slightly higher prices for steaks, salmon, and pasta dishes. It’s open both lunch and dinner. The food was good here, and I recommend eating out for dinner at least once during your trip, to save on the hassle of cooking in your condo.

Note: if you come back to Canyonside for dinner, remember that the free ‘mountain taxi’ shuttle only runs until 5 pm. You’ll need to drive your car or walk the short distance.

What you sacrifice in the name of low lift ticket prices at Eagle Point:

Great value in pricing comes at a cost, of course. It’s important that parents know what they WON’T find at Eagle Point, so they can make an educated decision for their family. Eagle Point does not have:

Wifi or much cell service: you can get a cell signal at Skyline Lodge area, but that’s it for most carriers. Bring DVDs to watch in the condo, because you won’t have Netflix. You may not even be able to make a call or send a text, so plan accordingly.
Fine dining: the Outpost Grill is friendly and has decently good food, but it is not gourmet.
Convenient access to hot tubs or any access to a health center: the hot tubs at Canyonside Lodge are stand-alone tubs in the snow out back of the building, with a fun, low-key atmosphere. Close to your condo they are probably not.
Terrain for advanced-intermediate skiers and riders. This is a biggie: Eagle Point has a wonderful array of beginner and easy intermediate terrain at Skyline and incredibly steep, ungroomed expert terrain at Canyonside…but not too much in-between.
Easy access from lodge to lodge. (See explanation above.)

What you WILL get is challenging skiing at a great price, with comfortable, mostly convenient lodging and a down-to-earth vibe.

Getting here:

Eagle Point is located 18 windy, steep miles off I-15 past Beaver. Take the access road slowly, as it can be difficult in ice and snow. The commute on I-15 is easy from both Las Vegas and SLC.

I was a guest of Eagle Point for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Paul Marshall/Ski Utah

Grown-Up Getaway: Downtown Las Vegas and Fremont Street

January 10, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

If your usual Las Vegas stomping grounds include only the Strip, or if, like me, you think ‘been there, done that’ when it comes to a Las Vegas getaway, a stay (or even just a day) in historic downtown Las Vegas may be just what you need to see this city from a different perspective.

Downtown Las Vegas is located toward the ‘top’ of the Strip, above the Stratosphere, and retains some of the original roots that made Vegas such a glittering, fun-loving city in the 1950s and 60s. We recommend spending time here only during an adults-only Las Vegas getaway, as its authenticity includes more than a dash of grittiness.

What to do during the day:

You’ll want to center your downtown Las Vegas day on and around Fremont Street. Head to the Downtown Container Park, located at 707 Fremont, and check out this artsy and interesting outdoor shopping and dining area created out of shipping containers and box cars. You’ll see a huge praying mantis at the entrance (an art piece, perhaps?) and layers of fun boutiques, coffee houses, and bistros in the area surrounding shaded seating. Expect good music, a clean, friendly atmosphere, and even a big playground for kids.

Next, go to the Mob Museum, located at 300 Stewart, just a few blocks from the Container Park. Built as a nod to Vegas’ mobster past, the Mob Museum includes true stories of organized crime, including crimes in Vegas history. It’s put together in an interactive, immersive way, with several levels of exhibits and displays.

Where to eat:

In the daytime, head to the Commissary, located at the bottom of the Downtown Grand, for great breakfast burritos, espresso, and sandwiches. Do yourself a favor and skip the hotel buffets at old-school casinos like the Golden Nugget or the Fremont. In the evening, try Itsy Bitsy, located at 150 Las Vegas Blvd. This ramen house offers up steaming bowls of ramen noodles and rice dishes, served alongside amazing sake. Try the cucumber sake for a refreshing, light drink.

For an after-dinner cocktail or two, avoid the ‘street’ drinks in plastic cups found along Fremont in favor of the Griffin bar, which surprises with a cozy English pub interior (with a pretty bare bones exterior). As an alternative, the Downtown Grand’s Art Bar, located on the ground floor, has great drink specials and a bright, tasteful, and airy atmosphere.

What to do at night:

You won’t find world-class shows or impressive hotel interiors downtown, but you will find a slice of Vegas culture unlike even that you see on the Strip. The Fremont Street Experience includes the massive, bright, neon-canopied pedestrian-only street where zip-liners fly overhead, bands play live, and casinos beckon on every corner. In the street, the people watching is fantastic; expect to see everything from half-naked people to open drunkenness to beggars and street performers (both talented and untalented). As noted above, this is not an atmosphere for children, but can certainly be a fun culture shock for an adult getaway.

Zip-lining above the crowd will set you back $20 per person for the lower, slower line and $40 for the high line. Plan to buy tickets at the start of the Fremont Street (where the covered area starts) well before you want to zip…the wait time tends to be about an hour. You don’t have to wait in line; rather, you’re issued a time to return.

Live music is generally fun and loud, and on the hour, the entire neon ceiling of the Fremont Street Experience comes alive with images and video to coordinate with music. For a non-gaming, non-partying crowd, one evening (or even one hour) on Fremont will be enough, but I can certainly see the authentic appeal for the wilder set.

Heading to Vegas with the kids? Check out our guide to Las Vegas with kids, our top kid-friendly attractions, and where we think you should stay.

Where to ski in Utah: Brian Head Resort with kids

February 13, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Deciding where to ski in Utah is a little like deciding which tropical island to buy…you really can’t go wrong, wherever you choose. That said, there are distinct differences between Utah resorts, and perhaps an even bigger difference between Salt Lake City and Provo area resort and Southern Utah resorts. For the first time, I explored the skiing options in Southern Utah, where I loved the friendly, relaxed, and sometimes almost eccentric vibe.

Brian Head Resort with kids:

Brian Head Resort has the highest base elevation in Utah (you’ll be at over 9000 feet at all times, and up to 11,000+ feet while skiing). It offers 650 acres with eight chairs. It’s not the largest Utah ski resort, and also not the most challenging in terms of expert terrain, but it has something distinct going for it that really plays in its favor: isolation.

Because Brian Head is pretty far from a metropolis (you’re 3.5 hours from SLC and 3 hours from Las Vegas), your closest neighbors during your stay are national parks and monuments. Brian Head has the distinction of being a Dark Sky location, which means you’re free from light pollution. All this isolation means Brian Head Resort makes its own fun. Events, apres ski dining options, live bands, and special programming seems to be scheduled for just about every night. Need proof? Just take a look at their event schedule.

Getting the lay of the land:

When skiing Brian Head resort with kids, it’s important to note Brian Head has two distinct base areas: Navajo and Giant Steps. They are separated by the highway, with a ski bridge that links them. Base lodges are at both locations. The simplest way to categorize them is to say that Navajo offers the beginner and intermediate terrain, and Giant Steps offers intermediate and expert terrain. There’s a meeting place for the winter sports school at both locations, but the kids’ camp is at Navajo. The two Brian Head hotel lodges are a couple minutes’ drive from the Navajo side, but there are many house rentals and condos available at both base areas.

You can absolutely ski between the two sides using the ski bridge, but it does take a few chairs and some traversing. There is also a free shuttle that connects the base areas, convenient if you have family members skiing at different levels but want to meet up for lunch or apres ski.

Skiing at Brian Head:

Brian Head is one of those resorts that seems to double its size on powder days…there are just so many open areas to ski. (The openness of the resort is actually due to the need to remove many trees during a beetle infestation years ago.) But of course, not every day can be a powder day. During my visit, we stuck mostly to groomed runs, which were plentiful and pleasant. There are a number of great chutes near the top of Giant Steps, and even after the fluffy powder is skied out, hidden stashes remain in the trees. On the Navajo side, the green beginner runs are some of the most interesting I’ve seen…think winding paths through forests and fun curves.

From both sides, skiers are rewarded with views of classic Southern Utah red rock, and glimpses of nearby Cedar Breaks National Monument. On clear days, it’s possible to see all the way to Great Basin National Park in Nevada. What you won’t see often are crowds. We visited on a Saturday in January, and it felt like a quiet Tuesday morning.

Other things to do at Brian Head:

Remember how close you are to Cedar Breaks while in Brian Head? If you want to take an afternoon off from skiing, you can actually take a snowmobile tour from the resort area to High Mountain, which offers incredible close-up views of the red rock of Cedar Breaks. Thunder Mountain Motorsports offers 1.5 hour, 3 hour, and all day rides. We found 1.5 hours to be just enough time to go through the backcountry of Brian Head to High Mountain and back, with time to play around in snow-filled meadows and learn about the natural history of the area. Our guide was fantastic: the perfect mixture of helpful and informative but also lighthearted and fun. Tours start at $85/machine, which families can ride double for only $15 extra. If you have it, you can even take your own machine and follow the tour for $20.

If snowmobiling isn’t your thing, you can also snowshoe or cross-country ski in Cedar Breaks. It’s best to call for up-to-date info on road conditions and where to start your winter exploration: 435-586-9451.

Brian Head also offers snow tubing, which I’m told is on a steeper track than most. (I didn’t get a chance to try it.) However, one of the best things I did at Brian Head was their free ‘Star Party’. Held once a month at Navajo base lodge, star parties are a fun and informative viewing of the night sky. Because Brian Head is a Dark Sky location, the view on clear nights is fantastic. They bring out ‘dark rangers’ (like park rangers) to lead short talks, in which they point out constellations and planets and give families time to look through telescopes. There are fire pits and hot chocolate as well.

Where (and what) to eat at Brian Head:

Remember how I said Brian Head was just a bit eccentric? This characteristic is most evident in their dining and entertainment scene. Brian Head was bought by a new owner a few years ago; owner John Grissinger has brought his love of Kansas City BBQ to the resort, and everyone benefits! At least once a week (and usually more often), families can find ‘John’s KC style BBQ’ on the events calendar. Held at Last Chair Saloon at Giant Steps base, this BBQ meal is not to be missed. You may get two choices on the menu, but don’t expect more. What you’ll get is amazing BBQ meat (usually ribs, catfish, or tri-tip) served with sides. It’s accompanied by live music, and the whole event is very family-friendly.

When you can’t get BBQ, you have other options: Giant Steps lodge and Navajo have your standard ski day fare, and if you want to dine out in the evening, the Grand Lodge offers a simple but solid menu at their Lift Bar and Grill. Cedar Breaks Lodge offers a restaurant as well.

Where to stay at Brian Head:

As noted above, there are many condo rentals and home rentals in Brian Head. If you opt for a hotel, you have the choice between the Grand Lodge and Cedar Breaks Lodge. We stayed at Grand Lodge, which has a great indoor pool and hot tub, plus an outdoor hot tub. Their spa was closed for the season, but it is on offer in summer months. They have a decent continental breakfast at the Lift Bar and Grill, which is convenient before your ski day, though it does cost extra (around $10 pp). I found this price to be too high for the standard fare; at some chain hotels, you can get a similar spread complimentarily). However, our waitress did charge less for those who were eating less, which was nice.

Rooms are standard, with mini fridges and microwaves, which is nice to have, and the lodge has fun live music and a pretty hopping bar on weekends. It’s a friendly, welcoming vibe. You’re about a one minute drive to the base of Navajo, or you can get on the free Brian Head shuttle.

Getting to Brian Head: Take I-15 to Parowan, then Highway 143 to Brian Head. It’s about 3.5 hours from Salt Lake City or 3 hours from Las Vegas.

Pin it for later:

Disclosure: I experienced Brian Head as a guest of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area

November 9, 2015 By Amy Hagstrom

Just 20 minutes from the bright and bustling Las Vegas strip, Red Rock Canyon can be a welcome respite from the crowds, especially in the spring or fall. (If visiting in summer, try to make it a morning expedition.)

Start at the visitor’s center, located at the start of the scenic loop drive. The Canyon Interpretive Association puts on occasional classes and programs, so check when you arrive. After orienting yourself to this large conservation area, hop in the car and start the loop drive, which takes you through red rock formations and canyon vistas. Families will find numerous locations to stop and take a trail. For young children, your best bet is the Lost Creek Children’s Discovery Trail.

Families with school-aged kids may want to try our favorite trail, Pine Creek. Located just two miles from the end of the scenic loop, Pine Creek starts with a decline into the canyon bottom and past the site of a historic settler’s cabin (just the foundation remains). After about a mile, the trail starts to incline, taking hikers along shaded Pine Creek. This creek is flowing year-round, and is lined with greenery including trees and ferns. It’s truly a special grotto in the heart of the desert! The entire trail is about three miles out-and-back, or there are numerous additional trails that stem from the same trailhead for more options.

Tip: be sure to look up…this canyon is well-known by rock climbers, and families may spot a few on the cliffs above.

Date last visited: October 2015

Distance off the interstate: 15 minutes from I-15.

Hours and Admission Prices: Hours are from dawn to dusk. Fees are by vehicle ($20 for an annual pass).

Bathrooms: Several along the Children’s Discovery Trail, pit toilets at trailheads

Website: http://www.redrockcanyonlv.org/

Directions: From I-15, take exit 34 to merge onto Bruce Woodbury Beltway/Clark County 215 W. Take exit 26 for Charleston Blvd, then turn left at W Charleston Blvd. Continue onto Charleston Bl/NV-159 W. Turn right.