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Tips for Rocky Mountain National Park with kids

July 21, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Rocky Mountain National Park is one of the United States’ premier family destinations, a jewel in the national park crown. In the summertime, the weather is beautiful, the scenery spectacular, and the opportunity to interact with nature unparalleled. Here are some things to know to help you make the most out of visiting with your kids.

Tips for Rocky Mountain National Park with kids:

West side vs. east side:

Experts say the west side of the park (accessed via Grand Lake) is less crowded than the east side (accessed via Estes Park). However, our visit was based in Estes, so this post focuses on the east side of the park.

Be prepared:

It storms somewhere in the mountains every afternoon, and even in the valleys, the weather is very cool in the mornings and evenings. Dress in layers. Wear long pants. Hiking boots really do make a difference on the uneven terrain. Use sunscreen and bug spray, and consider investing in rain ponchos.

Trail Ridge Road:

This 48-mile drive from Estes Park to Grand Lake is an all-day adventure that climbs several thousand feet through the tree line and into the arctic tundra. Along the route you’ll find countless amazing overlooks and a handful of hiking trails, as well as the Alpine Visitors Center. Trail Ridge Road can be a great experience, but be aware that altitude sickness is a real thing. Take it slow so everyone has time to adjust, and drink lots of water.

Don’t miss out on ranger-led hikes and programs:

You can learn about stars, wildlife, ecology, and more. Schedules are available in the visitors centers. The junior ranger program is a great way to get the kids invested in the park system. Start early in your visit to give your kids plenty of time to complete the activities.

There’s a reason why the popular hikes are popular:

Many of the hiking trails in RMNP are long, and many of the shorter ones are very steep. So if your family is too young for long or steep hikes, you will be part of the throngs visiting a relatively small number of trails. Based on our experiences, I have two suggestions:

First, get up early—really early. Many of the family-friendly hikes start at Bear Lake, which is a significant drive from Estes, and the parking lot fills early. Have everything prepped the night before; go to bed early and get up at 4:30 or 5 to beat the crowds. Afternoon naps are our friends.

Second, don’t view rain as an automatic death knell to hiking. Afternoon rainstorms often pass quickly. We arrived at the Cub Lake trailhead at the start of a pop-up storm. We waited out the worst of it in the van but then donned rain ponchos and headed out. Twenty minutes later, the sun was out. Two days later we started for Alberta Falls in an intermittent drizzle, and we had the trail almost to ourselves. With ballcaps beneath rain ponchos, we didn’t really get wet at all. You might think you’re sacrificing scenery, but there is a different beauty in hiking amid the clouds. It was well worth the effort. (Caveat: lightning is a different story. As with lightning anywhere, you want to be cautious.)

Hiking with young children:

It is possible to take a stroller on some of the trails at RMNP, but in most cases your best bet is backpack carriers. No need to buy one; they’re available for rent in downtown Estes Park.

If your kids are beyond a backpack, you’ll need to plan carefully. Prep your kids in advance for longer, more strenuous hikes—not just physically, but mentally. My sister managed to get her 4-year-old daughter to Emerald Lake, a 3.6-mile round trip with an elevation gain of 605 feet, by having her pretend she was Wonder Woman.

Park amenities:

Expect to be out of cell service most of the time you’re in the park.
Stay on top of the bathroom situation. Staying well hydrated is part of an enjoyable visit at high altitudes, so you also have to stay on top the need for bathrooms. There are facilities at many trail heads, but not all.
The visitors’ centers have clean restrooms and information desks, as well as a range of services including ranger-led programs, gift shops, and educational displays.
The national park service runs shuttle buses in the Bear Lake Road Corridor late May through early October. The buses are free, but park entrance fee is required for the Hiker Shuttle, which boards outside the park. Using the buses helps traffic flow and allows you to enjoy the scenery.

It takes longer than you think it will:

Traffic through Estes Park gets backed up. The lines at the entrance stations get backed up. Construction in the park causes traffic backup. And hiking at altitude is slower and more strenuous than you might expect. Pack snacks or lunch and plenty of water, and take lots of breaks.

Fees:

Entry fees for Rocky Mountain National Park are very modest at $20 per vehicle for one day or $30 for 7 days. Fees can also be paid per person. You can purchase passes ahead of time online.

Rocky Mountain National Park is located just under two hours west of Denver, Co. Parking and services provided by the national park service are free, although a limited number of adventure outfitters are permitted to operate within the national park.

Our family was offered a media pass to RMNP by Visit Estes Park. My enthusiasm for this amazing place, however, long predates this visit.

Where to stay in Santa Fe: Inn and Spa at Loretto review

April 25, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Santa Fe, New Mexico is a fun town for parents, and can be surprisingly kid-friendly, too. Whether you’re planning a parents-getaway or a family vacation, the Inn and Spa at Loretto offers an authentic feel, proximity to just about everything, and an upscale but relaxed vibe.

This boutique AAA four-diamond hotel has made Travel + Leisure’s World Best list, and houses an award-winning spa, but what I appreciated most was the authentic feel to the property. Located less than two blocks from Santa Fe’s historic Plaza and steps from dining and shopping, the Loretto is a five-story pueblo building surrounded by local flora and fauna and local sculptures. In fact, it sits adjacent to the famous Chapel at Loretto, and was built on the grounds of the former Academy of our Lady of Light. It’s very serene, despite being close to Santa Fe attractions. Inside, the pueblo style includes long, tiled hallways, interior art shops, and plenty of patios, balconies, and stucco spaces.

As seemed true for Sante Fe in general, the average age of guests during my stay at the Loretto appeared to be about 65; I only saw a handful of families (but it was the off-season). There’s plenty to attract parents with kids, including the beautiful grounds, a lovely outdoor pool, and a spa that welcomes teens (with parents).

Amenities:

Rooms in Loretto are spacious, include complimentary wifi, and bathrooms with tubs. The small fridge in each room shares its space with mini-bar items, with is a negative for families hoping to store leftovers and breakfast items, but some space does remain (you need a key to open the fridge, but as long as you leave mini-bar items in place, you’ll be fine).

My deluxe category guest room featured a kiva fireplace (with candle) and spacious balcony with seating area. Standard rooms don’t include these features, but many Superior category rooms (less than Deluxe) do include private or shared balconies. Be sure to call the front desk and ask for details on your room.

Dining at Loretto:

The Loretto offers three meals a day in their Lumineria restaurant with indoor and patio seating and what locals told me is a variation on New Mexican cuisine. Breakfast in Lumineria was excellent (try the huge breakfast burrito). Room service is also available. Dinner at Luminaria was a decidedly upscale event, with mood lighting and a peaceful, elegant feel. I tried the chiles rellenos and loved my meal. Their signature cocktails are inventive and delicious (try the Sagebrush). For lunch or more casual fare, the Living Room features simpler fare from Lumineria in a lounge and patio setting. It opens at 2 pm daily, and includes pool service.

The Spa at Loretto:

If parents have time and childcare, a trip to the Spa at Loretto will greatly enhance any trip. This spa won the Reader’s Choice award from Conde Nast Traveler, and after spending almost two hours in treatments, I can see why. I opted for a luxurious pedicure at the spa, which included time in their ‘zero gravity’ chairs. These chairs rotate you onto your back, with feet parallel to the floor. Sounds uncomfortable? It’s the opposite! In fact, I nearly fell asleep, and was told dozing in the zero gravity chairs is very common. If only airlines would adopt them…

Room Rates:

When I checked, rates as low as $150/night could be found. Superior and Deluxe category rooms will be more, but for a family, a balcony may not be necessary; there are plenty of outdoor spaces in the hotel. The Loretto also offers a gorgeous penthouse suite located on their fifth floor: with almost as much outdoor space as indoor (in the form of balconies and decks), this suite is an amazing venue for a social event or large family getaway.

What’s nearby:

From the Loretto, families can walk two blocks to the Plaza, and less than five blocks to Canyon Road shopping, the Cross of the Martyrs and site of Fort Marcy, and the Georgia O’Keeffe museum.

Directions:

The Loretto is located at 211 Old Santa Fe Trail in downtown Santa Fe. It’s only a few minutes from I-25, an hour from the airport in Albuquerque and 20 minutes from the airport in Santa Fe.

As I disclose whenever applicable, the Inn and Spa at Loretto hosted my stay, for the purpose of review. Without their hospitality, I would be unable to inform my readers about lodging and dining picks.

Santa Fe with kids: dining, shopping, and touring

April 20, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

When most parents think of Santa Fe, New Mexico, spas and art galleries come to mind. However, this small town in the high desert has its share of kid-friendly activities. Here where to go, where to eat, and where to shop if vacationing in Santa Fe with kids.

Attractions:

There are a few must-sees in Santa Fe with kids. To start, you’ll want to tour the Plaza and Palace of the Governors with kids, which is located in the heart of downtown and within walking distance of most hotels. Historically a trading center, the Palace of the Governors features a shaded walkway filled daily with local artisans; the Native Americans here get their spot by lottery. Wares range from small handmade trinkets for a few dollars to $400 fired bowls and other pottery.

Also in the Plaza is the Five and Dime, a kitchy souvenir store filled top-to-bottom with fun gifts and foods. Be sure to head to the back of the store to try a Frito Pie; this Santa Fe treat is a bag of Fritos filled with chili, cheese, and toppings. Many other shops line the square, including Rippel, featuring authentic silver buckles and innovative hand-crafted jewelry, but even better for kids is the outdoor market area one block toward the Loretto Chapel and La Fonda Hotel on E. San Francisco: here you’ll find baskets of low-cost gems, necklaces, bracelets, and trinkets.

Canyon Road features over 100 of the world’s finest art galleries, but if your kids won’t last long in this environment (mine don’t!) head left of the Canyon Road entrance to the site of Fort Marcy and the Cross of the Martyrs. This regional park includes a short walkway up the hill to the site of the original fort from the 19th century, and offers a beautiful view of the city. Get your art fix by visiting the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, ideal for kids.

For adventure in the high desert, join Santa Fe Walkabouts for a 4×4 ride along historic Route 66 to see remnants from the Camino Real trading route and a fun drive to the bottom of a steep mesa.

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Dining:

When choosing dining options in Santa Fe with kids, plan a meal at each of two restaurants, both located near downtown on Guadalupe Street. The Cowgirl Hall of Fame is well-known as a local watering hole with nightly live entertainment, but this fun and funky restaurant is so much more. Head to the back of this meandering establishment to find an outdoor seating area in a courtyard featuring a full-sized children’s play structure, plus chalkboard walls and other toys. Listen to the live music, enjoy one of many local microbrews on tap or a great margarita, and let the kids play! The food here ranges from burgers and fries to authentic New Mexican cuisine. We recommend the nachos as an appetizer.

Across the street at the railway depot is Tomasitas, with the most authentic Northern New Mexican cuisine in the city (according to locals). Tomasitas is completely casual, making it an excellent pick for kids, plus serves up the best margarita I’ve ever had. The guacamole and blue corn chips pair with the margarita perfectly, and their entrees range from enchiladas, tacos, chile rellenos, and tamales. All meals come with authentic sopaipilla (fried bread) and feature green or red chiles in the New Mexican tradition. Ask your server to have the chile sauce on the side if you’re not used to it: it’s very hot, but delicious! A kids’ menu is available, and restless kids can go outside with a parent to watch for trains.

Check out our review of the Inn and Spa at Loretto, our Santa Fe lodging pick.

Estes Park with kids: What to do in downtown Estes Park

September 27, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

While you’re in Estes Park with kids enjoying the mountains, be sure to carve out some time to explore the downtown area of this fabulous destination.

Fun City:

I would be remiss if I didn’t start with Estes Park’s ultimate kid-friendly attraction; it was the place my kids remembered best from our first trip, and the place they most wanted to return to. With burlap sack and 3-story twisty slides, miniature golf, go-karts, bumper boats, and more, this is a place you won’t want to miss. And trust me, you couldn’t miss it, even if you wanted to. It’s right next to the highway on the way to Bear Lake. Pricing is per attraction, and you load a swipe card in advance. Take advantage of the value cards—$57 worth of rides for $50, or $120 for $100.

Feeding the Family:

For low-fuss, fast-service food, try Bob & Tony’s Pizza (124 W. Elkhorn). The pizza is decent and the atmosphere is fabulous, with walls of signed bricks and an arcade with pool, air hockey, foosball and racing games at the back. You order and pick up at the counter, so it’s very low-fuss and family-friendly.

If you’re more in the mood for burgers, go for Penelope’s World Famous Burgers, which really are pretty scrumptious, though you’ll pay more for the quality. It’s a fun, old-fashioned place with small tables and a modern version of a jukebox. (229 W. Elkhorn)

Sugar Rush:

What downtown tourist area would be complete without a slew of sweet shops? The Danish Cone factory makes waffle cones on site; several others offer big, soft cookies and candy-making. There’s also a taffy shop, and don’t forget the old-fashioned candy store, which sells bulk candy by the piece or by the pound, including some you haven’t seen since you were a kid. (Candy cigarettes, anyone?)

Shopping:

Kitschy t-shirts, pens, mugs, wind chimes, blown glass, Disney figurines, bohemian clothes, toys—you name it, you can probably find it in downtown Estes. Naturally, this means Downtown Estes Park gets very busy in the summertime, with foot traffic on the sidewalks competing with the stream of cars headed to the Beaver Meadows entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. There’s lots of free parking, but prepared for slow traffic. Estes Park has a free shuttle; take advantage of it if you can. One thing I liked was the fact that the city has officers directing traffic at the major intersections in the downtown, and every cycle of the lights, they stop vehicle traffic so that pedestrians can cross—diagonally, even!

Free with kids:

Let’s be honest: with kids, ‘free’ is an important consideration.

Pikas in the Park: Keep the kids active and entertained trying to puzzle out the clues that help them complete this downtown scavenger hunt for bronze statues of the tiny mammal known as a pika.
The Riverwalk: Lining the back side of the main shopping drag, you’ll find this lovely pathway, with sculptures, fountains, and places to sit and watch the rushing mountain stream tumble past rounded rocks. You’ll also find a small play structure, too.
Performance Park: Just west of the downtown strip, this lovely amphitheater sits alongside Fall River. During the high season, there are free concerts on Thursday nights here. Bring blankets and lawn chairs.
The Birch Ruins inhabit an outcropping above downtown, with gorgeous views of Lake Estes and both the major corridors into the national Park. The walking trail, accessed from the parking lot behind the police station, takes you through a small nature preserve and then up the hill to the ruins.

Doing ‘grownup stuff’ with kids in tow:

For the most part, even the adult attractions in Estes Park are refreshingly kid-friendly. To wit:

The Slab, a no-frills, good-food outdoor pub which offers lawn games, Bingo, and Jenga as well as live music and adult beverages.
Snowy Peaks Winery, just a stone’s throw from Fun City, which lets kids do juice tastings while their parents taste the more fermented variety. They also have a play room in one corner and a lounge area with tons of board games. If you get rained out, take the family, buy a glass of Colorado wine, and spend a couple of hours together.

What are your “must-do” items in Estes Park?

Open Air Adventure Park Estes Park

August 28, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Estes Park, Colorado, is known as the gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park. But mountains aren’t the only outdoor adventures you can find in this small town. Tucked off highway 36 on the way out to the Beaver Meadows entrance of the park is the compact but surprisingly extensive Open Air Adventure Park.

Open Air Adventure Park is a web of 32 aerial obstacles arranged around a central hub. There are two levels; the lower is 10 feet off the ground, the upper 21. What kind of obstacles? A row of chairs. A suspended canoe. A saddle attached to a zipline. A vertical net to pick your way across. A trail of tires, both vertical and horizontal. There’s even a rappel line to get you quickly from the upper level to the lower, or to ground level. Each element is labeled green, blue, or black to indicate difficulty.

Open Air Adventure Park Estes Park review:

Your Open Air Adventure lasts an hour and a half and begins with detailed instruction on the safety equipment. A staff member will check everyone’s harness and understanding of procedures on a ground-level mockup of the safety lines you’ll be using up in the matrix. This takes the first fifteen minutes of your time slot, but once you’re cleared, you climb a ladder to level one and are set loose to explore at will.

My oldest son and I have done three aerial adventures now, and what’s nice about Open Air is the freedom to choose your own adventure. If there’s an element you particularly like, you can return to it as often as the crowd allows. The distance across elements is relatively short, so if you’re new to the sport, you might find it less intimidating than launching yourself over a zipline so long, you can’t even see the other end.

Open Air staff members are stationed in several places on the course to monitor safety and help navigate transitions. And of course, the view of the mountains is incomparable.

Age Limits:

Technically, the minimum age is six, but exceptions can be made if a parent is willing to move around the matrix with a five-year-old. In order to explore independently, a child has to be able to hook their carabiners to lines 6 feet above the platform. I needed to shadow (and shepherd) both my 5 year old and my 8 year old, because neither of them could reach the safety lines.

I recommend that if you have small children and/or children who are new to aerial adventures, keep a one-to-one ratio of adult to child. My younger two turned out to be extremely timid, and we ended up causing quite a backlog of people waiting on us to get moving. We also didn’t get to explore as much as I would have liked, because it took them a long time to overcome their fear. A one-to-one ratio will facilitate a more enjoyable experience for everyone.

Either way, minimum weight for participants is 40 pounds, and maximum is 250.

Preparing for your adventure:

Plan to arrive at least 15 minutes early, and be prepared for anything: an Open Air Adventure goes on rain or shine, stopping only for lightning. Wear sunscreen. Gloves are not required, but they’re a good idea. You’ll also need to sign a waiver for yourself and your children (it can all be done on a single form), which can be completed online ahead of time. The Open Air crew loans out lanyards with clear plastic phone cases attached so they are safe on your person while you’re up in the air.

Reservations and Fees:

Tim, one of the owners, told me Open Air tends to be busiest at opening time and in the evenings, but usually it’s less busy around the noon hour. Reservations are made online, with adventures starting every half hour. Fees are refundable with 24 hour notice

An Open Air adventure costs $35 per person, with a discount for parents who come up to shepherd their younger kids around the matrix. Not sure if you can handle the heights? If you try, but can’t make it off the first platform, Open Air offers a “scared out of my mind!” refund of $25.

Location:

Open Air Adventure Park lies at 490 Prospect Village Dr, Estes Park, CO 80517, just behind Fun City, adjacent to Highway 36 (Moraine Ave.). Parking is available on site.

Disclosure: We visited Open Air at a discounted rate, for the purpose of review. All opinion remains our own.

Visiting Santa Fe: Georgia O’Keeffe Museum with kids

June 13, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

No trip while visiting Santa Fe would be complete without a stop at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum with kids. Located downtown, this most-visited museum in New Mexico showcases the work of one of the most influential modernist artists of all time, Georgia O’Keeffe. In the museum, families will see her quintessential works–the minimalist bone and colorful flower paintings associated most with the artist–but also learn about her life, see her early work and sketches, and view temporary exhibits.

During my visit, I was lucky enough to experience a docent-led tour. These tours are available twice daily (at 10:30 am and 2:00 pm during the time of my visit) and are free to visitors. During the tour, which took about 1.5 hours, I gained an overview of O’Keeffe’s career, including her education, early work, and professional life. Details in her paintings were pointed out that I otherwise would have missed. I highly recommend the tour to adults.

The O’Keeffe Museum for kids:

The O’Keeffe is not a stuffy museum only for adults! The team here has taken great measures to make the museum kid-friendly, including activities to help kids engage with the exhibits, opportunities for kids to create their own artwork, and special family hours.

Discovery Guides for kids: these guides help kids interact with the exhibits (use a packet to find prompts, answer questions, offer opinions).
Sketchbooks and pencils for kids: upon entering the museum (by the way, kids are free), children are offered their own sketchbook so they can nurture their own creative juices while exploring the the nine galleries.
Ok to Go: this program is an opportunity for parents to create art with kids on Fridays, Saturdays, and Mondays from 10:30-12:30.
Saturday morning Family Program: the gallery opens an hour early for families (9:30-11:30 June 28, July 19, and Aug 2). This allows for kids to enjoy the galleries without having to be too quiet.

When you enter the museum, be sure to stop and watch the short (just over 10 minutes) film on O’Keeffe’s life to give you a good overview and prepare you for the exhibits. Kids will especially be interested in the photographs of O’Keeffe’s New Mexico homes and home life, and an exhibit depicting her studio. Until fall, the current temporary exhibit features side-by-side works from O’Keeffe and Ansel Adams, from their commissioned work in the Hawaiian Islands. It’s fascinating to see their different takes on the same region, given their love of ‘place’ as inspiration. Plan to spend at least one hour in the museum, or more if you plan to catch a docent talk.

Date last visited:

April 2014

Distance from the interstate:

Several minutes from I-25 in Sante Fe.

Admission:

$12 for adults ($6 for New Mexican residents) and FREE for kids 18 and under.

Hours of operation:

Open 10 am to 5 pm daily (and until 7 pm on Fridays).

Directions:

Take exit 282, St. Francis Drive, heading north toward Santa Fe. Follow St. Francis Drive for approximately five miles. Turn right onto Paseo de Peralta, then left at the next light, onto Guadalupe Street. After a few blocks turn right onto Johnson Street. The Museum will be on your left, at 217 Johnson Street.

A day with Santa Fe Walkabouts: tour of Santa Fe

June 11, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Families looking for an active way to see the New Mexico desert outside of Santa Fe will definitely want to book a tour with popular local tour company Santa Fe Walkabouts. These guys offer more than a tour of Santa Fe: they take you outside the city limits either on foot (for a hiking tour), on bike, or in their unique Pinzauer off-road vehicle.

We decided to try their half-day (3 hour) Pinzauer Tour to La Bajada Mesa, which takes families from downtown Santa Fe to the historic (original) Route 66 in the high desert. This 4×4 adventure starts out calmly enough along dirt roads to the national forest boundary, where the Swiss military vehicle gets the challenge the rocky, steep, and sometimes daunting descent down the La Bajada hill road. Guests ride in the back of the Pinzauer, on cushioned benches with lap seat belts. There are roll bars to hang onto. We were in great hands with our driver (and owner of the tour company) Georges. During the tour, it was clear to me that Georges and his partner Sue love their jobs: they were able to point out many natural and historical sights along the way, while keeping us safe in the vehicle.

The ride in the Pinzauer was certainly windy, but not uncomfortable. I recommend the tour for families with older kids, as there are long periods of sitting and riding. My tweens and teens would get a big kick out of the many steeps grades and rugged terrain navigated. At times, the vehicle listed (safely) over 20-40% in either direction, and took at least 30% grades.

Along the way, we were lucky enough to have a Route 66 expert with us, who was able to point out remains of the original Camino Real trading route and road. We also stopped to see petroglyphs and even spotted a rattlesnake (and then gave it a wide berth).

Keep in mind that bathrooms are not available during the tour, and you’ll want to bring layers to wear during the windy ride. Sunscreen and sunglasses are a must!

Tip: for parents who want to dig deeper into area history and culture (and have a sitter at the hotel), we recommend attending a lecture by Southwest Seminars . The team here has rich knowledge of the region, and incredible insight. Lectures are held almost every Monday evening at 6 pm at the Hotel Santa Fe.

Tour cost:

The 3-hour Pinz ride and hike we experienced costs $83/person, very standard for this quality of tour. We were offered bottled water as needed, but bring your own snacks if you’ll want them. You’ll be back in time for lunch.

Contact information:

Santa Fe Walkabouts picked us up at our hotel. Call the company to book a tour and find out where to meet them: 505-216-9161.

As I disclose whenever applicable, Santa Fe Walkabouts hosted me during my tour, for the purpose of review. Without their hospitality, I would not be able to share this experience with my readers.