I-80 - Pitstops for Kids

Skiing Sugar Bowl Ski Resort with kids

December 6, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Growing up in Northern California, Sugar Bowl Ski Resort was my hands-down favorite. I loved the front face of Mt. Lincoln, with its exciting dips and gullies, and the historic lodge reminded me I was truly in a Tahoe of a different era. I didn’t get back to Sugar Bowl for a long time, and when I did, I found that much had changed…in all the right ways.

The historic lodge is still there; it’s called the Village Lodge and is still connected via the old-school gondola that brings guests from the village parking area. However, there’s also a newer, more modern Mt. Judah Lodge, with its own base area and parking. While I was nostalgic for the village parking-gondola combination, I had to admit it was far more convenient to park at Mt. Judah. This base area houses the kids’ learning area, too, making it the best place for families in lessons to call home.

Skiing Sugar Bowl Ski Resort with kids is a no-brainer, because this resort really does have it all: it’s far enough off the beaten path that crowds tend to stay away, it gets some of the best snow coverage in Lake Tahoe and kids and teens who are advanced skiers and riders will have plenty of terrain to keep them challenged. Royal Gorge, one of the most extensive cross-country ski parks, is just next door, too.

If you have adventurous kids, check out the gated options at the top of Mt. Lincoln: ours love the steep front face with many options for moguls and tree skiing. Just be sure to take roped off areas seriously: there are several cliff areas on this face. Our second favorite area is off the Disney Express lift, which is almost entirely comprised of black diamond runs (a few blue intermediate runs are present for those who need them). On a powder day, head all the way over to Crow’s Nest Peak for gladed skiing.

Kids who gravitate to terrain parks will want to lap the Mt. Judah side, which also has some of the best blue groomers. One thing that Sugar Bowl lacks a lot of is easy green runs. You’ll find them, but the blue and black runs are by far the more abundant. Head to Nob Hill or Jerome Hill if you want to find a choice of green runs.

We enjoyed lunch at Mt. Judah lodge (I highly recommend the ramen bowls), but there’s additional dining at both the village lodge and the smaller mid-mountain lodge. Lodging can be found on-mountain at the historic hotel lodge, which has true European elegance in a rustic setting, or you can reserve a vacation rental home.

If you go, note that there are two parking areas; we recommend Mt. Judah. The drive is about 45 minutes from Lake Tahoe, near the Donner Summit and overlooking Donner Lake.

Disclosure: We experienced Sugar Bowl as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Deer Valley on a budget: How to plan a skiing trip

November 8, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

During my visit to Deer Valley last ski season, I repeatedly heard two things: it’s so expensive, and the dining scene is amazing. After spending two nights and three days at Deer Valley, Utah, I can tell you one of these things is true.

Deer Valley has an amazing culinary scene that you will want to indulge in. However, this resort is not the most expensive in Utah. In fact, lift ticket rates at Deer Valley are right in the average range for the area. Deer Valley fans know this is only one of the many misconceptions out there about this resort. In addition to hearing that it’s unaffordable, I’ve heard it ‘only has easy groomers’, is posh to the point of snobbishness, and that it’s a playground for the rich and famous. While it certainly boosts some A-list names among its home owners, the rest simply is simply false.

Deer Valley on a budget: Yes, it CAN be affordable!

First off, we simply have to accept the fact that most skiing in major resort in the US is expensive. In fact, it’s downright out-of-hand in many parts of Colorado, Utah, and California. The Park City area is no exception; however, you’ll do more damage to your wallet at Park City Mountain Resort now that Park City and Canyons have merged ($122/day for adults). When I skied recently in Colorado, lift ticket prices were upwards of $140. A Deer Valley one day adult lift ticket is $120, which makes it just below industry standard for resorts of its size. Not cheap, but certainly not the ‘splurge’ people think it is.

Buy lift tickets in advance:

Of course, you won’t want to pay day-of lift ticket prices. Make your Deer Valley trip more affordable by buying lift tickets online before your trip. Don’t overlook the season pass section: depending on how many days you plan to ski, buying a season pass can be a better deal (look for sales in October and November…in other words, right now!).

Stay in a condo:

Next, make your trip affordable by staying in a condo or house, splitting the cost with another family or two. Many people consider Deer Valley unaffordable because they’re thinking of all the amazing four and five star resorts situated around it. While its true that you can spend thousands a night at the St. Regis, Stein Ericsen, Montage, and more, less ritzy lodging is available. With the money you save, you can splurge on dining out (more on that below).

During our stay, we were in a condo in the Snow Park base area. We were minutes from downtown Park City and minutes from the lifts. Included in our condo stay was a complimentary shuttle in either direction, plus internet access, a full kitchen, multiple bathrooms and bedrooms (so crucial when sharing with other families), a washer and dryer, and lots of space to spread out. We sacrificed ski-in, ski-out access for price.

Enjoy some meals out:

When skiing Deer Valley, you cannot miss noticing the amazing culinary scene. Everything from breakfast at the base to on-mountain dining and evening apres ski is amazing, and if you deny yourself all of it, you’ll miss a key part of the Deer Valley experience. With your condo, you can decide which meals to eat in-home, and select a few nights to treat yourself. Here’s where to go:

Fireside Dining: Holy. Moly. Fireside Dining is an experience NOT to miss. It’s offered Wednesday through Saturday, and features four courses served from stone fireplaces, European Alps-style. Diners visit each ‘fireplace station’ at will, in buffet style. Start with the raclette (melted cheese with toppings), then move on to soups, stews, grilled vegetables, leg of lamb, and dessert fondue. It will feel overwhelming, but your waiter will walk you through it. We were told to remember to eat in order of ‘cheese, stew, lamb, fondue’. In truth, you can do it any way you’d like! Be sure to stop mid-way through your meal for a sleigh ride, offered right out front. The servers will hold your table for you, and the break will be welcome. Rides are only $20 per family. Even your meal is affordable, considering the uniqueness and quality: adults pay around $60, kids $30. Alcohol is not included in the price, but you can even bring your own without a corkage fee.

Seafood Buffet: I’m told many diners choose between Fireside Dining and Seafood Buffet when they visit Deer Valley. I’d be hard pressed to choose which! As the simple restaurant name suggests, Seafood Buffet is just that. Thanks to the hub airport at SLC, Deer Valley gets the same fresh seafood as LA or New York, at the same time, if not earlier. It’s offered Thursday through Sunday, and includes a Poke bar, raw bar, rotating selection of grilled and baked fish, prime rib, shellfish, and wonderful desserts. Adults are $68, kids are $34. It’s worth it.

Royal Street Cafe: This restaurant on the snow at the mid-mountain Silver Lake area offers sit-down, serviced dining mid-day. Don’t think of it as a splurge: the prices are only a fraction higher than they’d be at the buffet nearby, and you can actually sit down and put your feet (or boots) up. I had an amazing burger, and others ordered fish tacos, an ahi tuna tower, and Asian salad.

Snow Park Restaurant: Snow Park is at the Snow Park base area (and turns into Seafood Buffet at night!). It serves the usual breakfast in the morning, but makes this list due to its wonderful Natural Breakfast Buffet. This buffet area in the center of the room features granola, yogurt, berries, fruit, oatmeal, nuts, and the like. I made my own custom yogurt parfait.

And for those meals you simply must eat in? Don’t miss out on some of Deer Valley’s signature meals, even in your condo. Deer Valley’s famous Southwestern turkey chili can be bought as a mix in almost all Deer Valley gift stores; add your own meat and veggies, and you’ll have a huge vat of this chili for under $8. Additional mixes are available as well! You’ll have a taste of Deer Valley while feeding the whole crew for pennies!

What to expect on the slopes:

Yes, Deer Valley has a lot of green and blue runs. They’re long, impeccably groomed, and oh-so pleasant. While skiing down them, it’s fun to look at the huge ski vacation homes lining them (Deer Valley is surprisingly ‘urban’ in this way). However, expert terrain definitely exists, if you want it. During my visit, I was lucky enough to ski with former 3x Olympian Heidi Voelker, who is now an ambassador at Deer Valley. She showed me amazing bowls and chutes I didn’t know existed, especially off the Empire chair. Deer Valley also boosts a lot of glades that hide stashes of powder after the bowls are skied out.

No matter what type of terrain you like, you’ll notice that at Deer Valley, the runs and chairs are very well spaced and ‘crowd control’ is very well handled. I never found I needed to traverse or ‘hike’, and I never waited in a long line. Part of this is because Deer Valley actually limits ticket sales per day. They base their capacity level on how many chairs they have available on-mountain for lunch. It’s a great system that results in a very peaceful atmosphere, both on the slopes and at lunch.

Tip: Definitely book lift tickets well ahead if you plan to come during holiday periods, so you don’t arrive to find the capacity has been met. In fact, I was told to book lift tickets and ski school at the time I book lodging.

If you like to shop:

You will have ample opportunity! However, if you want to stick to a budget, head into Park City and do your outdoor gear shopping at Cole Sports. This huge retailer of skis, outerwear, boots, shoes, and more has frequent sales, especially in the pre-season and late season. In Deer Valley, many upscale shops exist; if you need to avoid temptation, however, it’s easy, as there’s no central base area shopping here, where everyone converges.

Will your Deer Valley ski vacation be ‘cheap’? Goodness no! But it’s certainly possible to ski here for no more, and perhaps for less, than at other major ski resorts.

Disclosure: I visited Deer Valley as a guest of Ski Utah.

Tahoe with kids: Skiing Alpine Meadows

January 26, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Planning to go to Tahoe with kids? Alpine Meadows, located between Truckee and Lake Tahoe, California, has some of the best skiing in the Tahoe area. Plus, it’s rarely crowded and always easy to navigate with kids in tow. Often overshadowed by Squaw Valley, the two resorts are now on the same ‘team’; one lift ticket now allows families to explore both mountains (connected by 15 minute shuttle ride). While we love Squaw for its big mountain, expert terrain and village ambiance, Alpine Meadows wins for ease of use, gorgeous views, and family-friendliness. If you’re expert skiers, don’t worry: there’s still plenty of steep bowls to play in.

Tahoe with kids:

You won’t find a village at Alpine Meadows. No speciality shops or high-end apres ski dining. What you’ll find instead: a direct line from the parking area to 2,400 skiable acres, with over 100 trails and seven bowls. Families park in one central parking lot, and walk only a short distance to the base area lodge. There are lockers to rent, but you’ll see that skiers and riders feel comfortable hanging backpacks from lodge hooks, and stashing coolers in designated areas (it’s also easy to head back to the car for things).

From the lodge, beginners will find the learning area to the left, and experts will want to load Summit chair to the top for freshies on the Sherwood and Alpine bowls (you’ll get a bird’s eye view of both on the way up). Roundhouse chair takes families to mid-mountain, where they can head to Scott or Yellow chairs for fun intermediate and advanced terrain. In the morning, the front bowls will soften up first (avoid the Scott area until the shadows lift).

Families will find a small chalet to warm up in by the base of Scott chair (with food service), or–and this is the beauty of Alpine Meadows–it’s always easy to navigate to the base area to eat. While at Alpine, you won’t sacrifice terrain for the convenience of accessibility and lack of crowds: the bowls and bumps are among the best we’ve experienced anywhere. And the views…you’ll get lake views and mountain views in every direction on bluebird days.

There are really only two areas gravity will take you on Alpine’s front side (Scott chair and base area), which makes it a great area for adventurous teens. Once we were skied out, we sat on the sunny base area deck and watched as our boys took additional laps.

Date last visited:

December 2014

Distance from the interstate:

I-80 is a 10 minute drive (at Truckee).

Lift ticket cost:

Here in lies the rub: lift tickets to Alpine Meadows are now combined with Squaw Valley, bringing them up to $95/adults, $82/youth, and $55/children during non-peak days. You can use these tickets at Squaw, so definitely plan on multi-day tickets to take advantage of both mountains.

Directions:

From Truckee (I-80), take CA-89 to Alpine Meadows (you’ll pass Squaw Valley first).

Disclosure: As we disclose whenever applicable, we experienced Alpine Meadows as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions are own own.

Tahoe with kids: Mourelatos Lakeshore Resort review

January 19, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

When we visit Lake Tahoe, we visit for the skiing, and we tend to stay slopeside at ski resorts. However, there’s a lot to do in North Lake Tahoe in the winter and summer that does not involve downhill skiing! If your family prefers lakeside relaxation, snow play, Tahoe dining, or summer Tahoe beach-going, hiking, and mountain biking, stay at the lakeshore instead of in ski villages.

Mourelatos Lakeshore Resort review:

This deceivingly simple travel lodge blew me away! Mourelatos Lakeshore Resort has been family-owned by the Mourelatos family since the 1970s and is located directly on the sand in Tahoe Vista, in North Lake Tahoe. It has 16 units of standard hotel rooms and 16 units with full kitchens, all of which have lake views and are steps from the sand. The Mourelatos family has taken care to provide many touches that add value to a stay here: you’ll find an impressive outdoor BBQ station for families to use at their leisure, beachfront lounging, two outdoor hot tubs, free parking and WiFi, and a free continental breakfast each morning (though this is basic). In addition, activities are always on the books, whether that be game night in the lobby or s’mores by the beach.

Where Mourelatos really shines: local information is at each visitor’s fingertips. I spoke with owner Alex Mourelatos, who explained that guests wanting plenty to do need only ask: the hotel has 18 acres of property on the other side of the highway filled with trails and trees. In winter, families sled and snowshoe here, and can connect to the adjacent Tahoe Vista Regional Park for more outdoor adventure. In summer, hiking and mountain biking abounds. The front desk staff can also point families to the best dining options, water activities and Tahoe events. In summer, canoes, paddleboards and kayaks are available, and in winter, snow play toys are laid out for kids.

I enjoyed a room at the far end of the resort with perfect lake views, a full kitchen and large deck over the sand. Rates during the winter when I visited were as low as $162, a great value for lakefront property. Mourelatos is within 20 minutes of Diamond Peak ski resort and within 30 minutes of Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows and Northstar. If you have beginning skiers and snowboarders or simply want a low-cost ski experience, Granlibakken is within 15 minutes’ drive.

If you go:

Mourelatos Lakeshore Resort is located at 6834 N Lake Blvd, Tahoe Vista. It does sell out in the summer months, so book far ahead to ensure you get a room!

Squaw Valley CA with school-aged kids and teens: where to stay, dine, and ski

January 5, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

A ski vacation is the perfect socially-distanced getaway, in the outdoors! Every ski resort experience is different this season, so visit Squaw Alpine’s website for the latest COVID updates and regulations..Squaw Valley CA has long enjoyed a reputation for challenging ski terrain for advanced and expert skiers. In the last several years–most recently after their merge with neighbor Alpine Meadows ski resort–Squaw has also been working hard to earn the reputation of family ski destination. While the resort has made great strides toward this goal during their 5 Year $70 Million Plan (partway through in 2013), for us, it remains the go-to Tahoe ski resort location for steep, varied, and challenging mountain terrain. Does this mean it’s not a family resort? Not at all: it’s an ideal ski resort for families of advanced to expert skiers.

Skiing Squaw with advanced skiers and snowboarding kids:

While Squaw has a great beginner’s area at mid-mountain (which makes for more interesting skiing for newbies than being delegated to slopes adjacent to the parking lot), the ski boundary boasts so much great bowl, tree, and cornice skiing that it would be a shame to waste. Put another way: beginners will find what they need here, but they won’t get to experience the best of the mountain.

So what is the best of Squaw Valley with school-aged kids and teens? The varied, multiple ways to get your black diamond skiing and snowboarding on. From the village base, skiers and riders can head straight up KT-22 chair, made famous in the 1960 Olympics, and spend the day exploring all the nooks and crannies around its bowls and ridges. Just as satisfying is the Granite Chief region at the other end of the resort, where powder and trees reign. Headwall chair takes skiers to the top and great moguls, whereas Siberia offers steep groomers and access to the terrain park and half pipe. If the phase ‘something for everyone’ has crossed your mind, you’d be right.

There’s plenty of blue square intermediate runs in-between, and the aforementioned beginner areas, but after spending four ski days at Squaw in the 2013 season, its steeps and deeps impressed us more than anything else…unless you count the views, which are some of the best in the Sierras.

Squaw Valley lodging:

Squaw Valley Village Lodging is ideal for families wanting to hit the slopes early and hard. In Village 1, we were steps from the Funitel Gondola and even closer to dining, tickets, and the Olympic House base lodge. After working hard on the slopes, it’s very welcome to skip a car or shuttle ride and deposit skis and boards directly into in-house ski lockers before hitting the hot tub. Village housing includes 1-3 bedroom units, all of which include a fireplace, full kitchen, and tubs as well as showers. Hot tubs are in Buildings 2-5, so if you opt for Building 1, you’ll be closer to the lifts and enjoy arguably better views, but will have to walk outside and back in to access the hot tub and fitness center.

Squaw Village dining:

We only stay in ski lodging with kitchens, so we can make some meals in-room to save money. Plus, we’re often just too tired in the evenings to go out! If you do venture out, you won’t need a car: the Village offers everything from burgers to bistro fare to sushi. We had a great meal at MamaSake sushi and a al fresco lunch at KT Base Bar. A small grocery will have whatever you forgot at home to make meals in, though you’ll want to do the bulk of your grocery shopping in Truckee or Reno before arriving.

Lunch is available at mid-mountain at the Arc and at High Camp (more on this destination below), or at the base cafeteria-style, deli-style, or sit-down service style at Olympic House. Another perk of village lodging: we ate several lunches in the comfort of our condo, where we made sandwiches, put our feet up, and hung out on the balcony overlooking the village. Plan on a 15 minute ski down to the base from mid-mountain, and longer to get back up via lifts or gondola after eating.

Village and High Camp activities:

If you have energy left after skiing Squaw’s expert terrain (or more likely, if the kids still have energy), the village offers a fun SkyJump (bungee trampoline) for $12 for 5 minutes that’s worth doing once, as well as an indoor climbing wall. If you have lift tickets, they’ll also get you up the Tram to High Camp, where you can ice skate while watching skiers on the slopes, or in spring and summer, swim in the High Camp pool and hot tub. (In summer, the ice skating rink converts to roller skating.) You’ll find a small Olympic museum at High Camp which is worth a short visit (it could use work, but is free and paints a general picture of the 1960 games), and the trip is worth it for the views alone.

If you have beginners or very young kids:

Squaw Kids features group and private ski lessons, though we have not experienced them firsthand. By High Camp are no fewer than three lifts dedicated to beginners, and even our advanced and expert kids really enjoyed the small/medium terrain park located off Belmont Chair in the beginner area. By the end of our visit, they had graduated to the large terrain park off Gold Coast Chair (which also offers lots of nice intermediate groomers).

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced Squaw Valley as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.

Backcountry skiing basics: How to get into the sport

December 2, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

It’s never been a better time to get into the backcountry and leave the crowds behind! Here’s how to get into the sport during the COVID season!

An avid downhill skier and snowshoer, I’ve been noting the small but growing trend toward backcountry skiing for some time now. This sport, which combines a love of nordic exploration and downhill excitement, attracts men and women (and yes, some kids) who want to carve their own line down mountain terrain and explore the wilderness at the same time.

I got my first pair of backcountry skis in 2012, which were basically fat nordic skis with a three-pin binding. I found I could navigate single-track nordic trails with steep inclines much better than my nordic skier counterparts, and I was hooked. Today, all-terrain (or AT) ski gear is much more involved, but AT skiing is still a fairly diverse term. Just like the sport itself, it can mean something different to every enthusiast, from short hikes up to freshies from lift-accessed runs to full-day expeditions with beacons and probes.

In January, I was lucky enough to experience the sport in more depth, this time trying out top-of-the-line AT skis, boots, and bindings on a half-day, strenuous backcountry ski day in Utah’s Cottonwood Canyon near Solitude Mountain Resort.

I headed out with Utah Mountain Adventures after getting outfitted with Voile skis with Dynafit bindings and Scarpa AT boots. I carried a backpack with plenty of water, plus a shovel and avalanche probe. I strapped an avalanche beacon, provided by Utah Mountain Adventures, to my body.

The only way to get fresh powder runs was to climb uphill, so my first lesson was in putting on skins. Turns out, this is easy. The hard part is to climb upslope. We climbed for over two hours, stopping for a few breaks, skinning up a mountainside in the Wasatch Mountains. I’d like to say I enjoyed the whole experience, but in truth, by hour two, I was sweating enough to shed a layer and starting to feel hot spots (which turned into blisters) where my socks rubbed in my boots. I was told to loosen my AT boots for the uphill climb (there’s a walk mode and ski mode), and while I’m sure this is sound advice, it didn’t help on the blister front.

The whole uphill experience reminded me of hiking: there were periods of enjoyment while I took in breathtaking views and reveled in being in the wilderness in winter, but also periods during which I had to set tiny goals–get to the next tree, get to the next open slope–in order to carry on. In other words, it’s crucial to love the outdoors and the uphill ‘hiking’ process, or the joys of backcountry skiing may be lost on you.

Climbing in AT skis is not very difficult–it’s much like cross-country skiing–but there are moments when kick turns may be necessary to zig-zag along steep grades. Yes, there’s a learning curve to this, but here’s what I was told (and it helped): use as much of the flat plane of your ski base as possible. Staying on your edges, where you don’t have skins, won’t help you keep traction.

Once we’d summited a peak in Cottonwood Canyon, the fun began. We took off our skins, stowed them in our packs, and switched our boots and bindings to downhill mode. (Dynafit bindings are unique in that they transition from climbing mode, with the heel untethered, to downhill mode, with the heel locked down just like alpine skiing, with one twist of the back binding. They also feature ‘risers’ that can be raised while in climbing mode, which assist on steep ascents, much like going a gear lower on a bike. Yes, they’re nifty.)

We picked our line for the descent, and carved down the beautiful, light powder. Thanks to the efforts of our uphill hike, the terrain wasn’t skied out like it quickly becomes on lift-accessed terrain. I happily followed the lead of our guide, who knew the area and how to traverse through the glades and open slopes and still find our starting point back at base. Without him, I would have needed a GPS in unfamiliar territory.

Raised in the deep powder of Tahoe, skiing off-piste before I knew what that meant, I loved every second of the descent. Yes, it was challenging, but also very satisfying, knowing I’d earned my turns. I never needed my beacon, but was glad for the security it offered. Back at the base of the mountain, I switched my skis back to climb mode, and ‘cross-country skied’ my way back to the car on flat terrain. The sun was setting by the time we returned, and trust me, I’d earned my pizza and beer.

What you’ll need to get started in AT skiing:

AT or telemark skis (these are the skis I tried)
AT or telemark boots (the most comfortable seem to be Dynafit)
any ski poles
backpack
shovel, probe, and beacon
breathable outerwear
plenty of layers (wool is best)

Tips for beginners (like me):

I recommend going with a guide, like I did, your first time out (or any time out in an unfamiliar area). Most guide services can also rent AT skis and boots, which are expensive to buy yourself at first. More importantly, guides know where to go and are trained in avalanche safety (check to make sure!).

Any time out in the backcountry, everyone in your party should carry a beacon and shovel, at very least. I fell once during my trip, and lost one ski. It was deeply buried almost instantly, and had it been me, I would have been glad for my beacon, guiding others to me. Luckily, I found the ski without needing my shovel. If you go out without a guide, you should have completed an avalanche safety course. They are offered almost everywhere now, from gear stores to ski resorts.

If you haven’t explored winter terrain at all yet, start by snowshoeing or cross-country skiing. Hit trails you’re familiar with in the summer months; they’ll have a different feel in winter! Alternatively, try backcountry skiing from lift-accessed terrain. At any ski resort, look at a terrain map to see where off-piste (or non-groomed) terrain is located. Make sure it’s open the morning of your ski, and then climb only from the top of a lift (shortening your ‘hike’). Yes, others will have the same idea, so make this one of your first few runs of the day. Afterward, relax with some cruisers. Some resorts, such as Keystone Mountain in Colorado, even offer cat rides to off-piste terrain, allowing skiers to find fresh powder without AT gear.

Can kids AT ski? Sure, though it’s currently hard to find skis and boots to fit kids under age 12 or so. There’s a reason for this: AT skiing is a lot of work. My recommendation (that I’m following with my own kids): introduce the idea of backcountry exploration when kids are small, with snowshoe treks. Then, graduate to AT skiing when kids are teens. Make sure they’re expert skiers on groomed terrain, too.

Can snowboarders AT ‘ski’? Yes, Voile and other makers are now creating split snowboards, which split into two short ‘skis’ for the uphill climb, then come together to create a board for the downhill. It’s the coolest transformer yet!

I’ve heard the argument that AT skiing is popular because skiers can avoid the high cost of lift tickets. While this is true, and while I do think most lift ticket prices have gotten out-of-hand, I don’t think true AT ski lovers climb miles of terrain for this savings. It’s simply too much work to do it for any reason but a love of the outdoors and the sense of freedom. It’s a way to challenge oneself outside of the ski resorts, and well worth the effort of learning a new discipline within alpine skiing.

I toured the Wasatch with Utah Mountain Adventures at no cost, for the purpose of testing AT ski gear.

Where to ski in Utah: Brighton Resort

January 2, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

If you just read my post reviewing Utah skiing at Solitude Mountain Resort, you know that Brighton Resort is its closest neighbor, nestled right next door in Big Cottonwood Canyon outside of Salt Lake City. Both resorts offer incredible ski terrain for experts and backcountry skiers and snowboarders, both offer a friendly, local vibe, and both have enough skiable terrain for a family to be happy for days.

Brighton Resort differs in that it does not offer on-site lodging, apart from private home rentals. There’s a big base area with a day lodge and a separate lodge with gear rentals and a snow sports shop, and a smaller lodge at an adjacent base area on the other end of the parking area. The resorts are only five minutes’ drive apart, so families can certainly stay in the Solitude village if they’re looking to stay in the canyon, and can even ski between the resorts with a resort hopper pass.

So who is Brighton Resort for?

Take a look at the Brighton mountain map, and you’ll see a sea of black diamonds. Like Solitude, Brighton is big and bold, with incredible pitches, glades, bowls, and backcountry for serious, expert skiers and riders. If you’re looking for challenge and seemingly endless skiable terrain during big snow years like 2017 has proven to be, you’ve found your place. But what if you’re a beginner or intermediate skier? The good news is that there are green circle runs even at the top of the resort, a nice touch for those who get tired of always being at or near the base while they’re learning. You’ll find green runs off the Snake Creek chair, and even off the Milly chair, which also has some of the steepest, deepest runs in the resort. Intermediate skiers and riders will want to focus on the blue-friendly Crest and Majestic chairs; this is also where you’ll find a surprisingly big selection of terrain park features.

If you’re an expert skier or rider:

Trust us, you could do laps all day on the Milly Express chair, and never get tired of the terrain. Your legs will, however, get tired. This chair was our favorite, with double-blacks on both sides of the chair, hike-to terrain along the ridge, and back bowls accessible for backcountry skiers with touring skis. Of course, all of this is dependent on conditions, and it’s essential to look at signage to see what’s open. This is big avalanche country, and the mountains should be respected.

Over on the Great Western chair, some of the steepest pitches take you down wide, mogul-filled black diamonds, and there are more tree glades with powder stashes along the far end of the resort. However, some of my favorite skiing all day at Brighton was found in what I deemed the ‘peaceful powder forest’, located near the top of Snake Creek and Crest. The woods here seemed to go on and on, with lots of powder between the trees and a more relaxing pitch.

If there’s less snow, you’ll definitely find less variety, but even then, the groomers along Crest and Big Western and Milly proved excellent. I loved the rollers and gentle curves to these runs, which got great sun throughout the day. We opted to break for lunch at the base of Milly, where the newest lodge of Brighton was far less crowded and offered excellent burgers and soups.

Planning your day at Brighton Resort:

As noted above, there is no overnight lodging at Brighton, so it will probably be a day trip for you. If you’re driving up Big Cottonwood Canyon (i.e., not staying at Solitude or in a nearby home rental), plan at least 25 minutes on an average day, and up to an hour on a holiday weekend…the traffic goes slowly on really great ski days.

Tip: Big Cottonwood Canyon is 15 miles of pretty curvy, mountainous roadway, and 4×4 drive or chains ARE required fairly regularly. You can opt to take a bus from the base of the canyon, where there’s a convenient park and ride parking lot for your car.

Because Brighton Resort is a day use resort, the parking lot does fill up on busy days. We skied Brighton on a holiday weekend after a big dump of snow, and were glad we arrived just after 9 am…by 11 am, the parking lot was completely full and people were parking on the road.

Lift tickets are under $80 per day per adult, which is relatively reasonable, by ski resort standards. Better yet, you can ‘reload’ your day pass the next day for $10 less. Kids 10 and under are FREE at Brighton, which is a fantastic perk. To save money, consider a Brighton pass if you plan to ski regularly there, because it includes free ski bus access, or, if you have a pass elsewhere, see if it’s a M.A.X. Pass resort and do a M.A.X. Pass add-on for the best value. You can get a Solitude-Brighton ticket for under $100, and ski between the two resorts, but I bet you’ll have enough to keep you busy right at Brighton.

Pin it for later!

Disclosure: I visited Brighton as a guest of the resort for the purpose of reviewing M.A.X. Pass resorts. All opinions are my own.

Northstar California Resort with kids: what you need to know for a great ski vacation

December 13, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Between the expense, the equipment, and the logistics of getting everyone where they need to be (preferably with both gloves), skiing with kids can be daunting. Northstar California makes it easier by continuing to be one of the friendliest and most family-oriented mountains my family and I have ever skied. With a fun, centralized ski village, luxury accommodation options, and multiple ski school programs, Northstar offers everything your family needs to have a successful, memorable Tahoe ski vacation. Here’s how to get the most out of a trip to Northstar California Resort with kids:

Plan to stay a minimum of three days.

With 170 acres of newly skiable side-terrain, a new express quad chairlift doubling the capacity on the backside, and one of the best terrain parks (including the new 22′ Shaun White super pipe), families simply can’t full experience Northstar in only a day, especially if they plan to spend even half a day in group or private lessons. Renting equipment, buying tickets, and registering for ski and board school all take time: you only want to have to do it once per ski vacation. Staying at Northstar more than one day saves you money too: buying 3, 5, or 7 day passes is much cheaper than day-of ticket window pricing. If you plan to ski more than seven days, consider purchasing a local Epic Pass instead, which allows entry to both Northstar and Heavenly.

Immerse yourself in ‘village life’.

We loved staying in the heart of the Northstar Village at Tahoe Mountain Lodging’s Big Horn Lodge. Of course, it’s convenient to be steps away from the slopes, ice skating rink, equipment rentals, restaurants, shops, and hot tubs, but what we hadn’t counted on was how much enjoyment we’d gain from staying in the heart of such a contagious ‘ski town’ atmosphere. The Northstar-at-Tahoe Village truly is the heart of the resort; we loved the cheery bonfires lining the village streets (bring marshmallows!), the live music in the evenings, and the view from our balcony of the Northstar gondola whisking guests up and over the snow-blanketed slopes.

Take advantage of private family lessons.

Like many resorts, Northstar-at-Tahoe offers a wide variety of ski and board lessons, from group classes for kids as young as three to adventure and ‘guided’ sessions for advanced skiers and riders. At first glance, springing for a private lesson may seem like an extravagance, but because families can add up to six people to one private lesson, the cost can become equal or even less than a group lesson. Your children will get far more personalized instruction, and if you join in as well, you’ll learn how to help your kids learn! Our kids (ages 7, 10, and 12) had a great time with their private instructor, Jon, who served as not only a teacher, but a guide, familiarizing the kids with the mountain as they zipped around, enjoying twice as many runs in as most guests (by utilizing private lesson lines). Time is money, and dedicating half a day or one full day to a family private lesson can not only jump start your ski instruction, but get your group familiarized with Northstar like nothing else!

Utilize EpicMix.

A brand new social networking and tracking service offered by all Vail Resorts (of which Northstar is a part), EpicMix is touted everywhere you go at Northstar, and for good reason: you should be using this fun and free tool! In fact, if you have a ski pass, you already are: every time you enter a lift line, an EpicMix sensor scans your pass, recording your lift habits, total vertical feet, and lots of other fun stats throughout your day. After skiing, families can log into their account (kids are securely added by you to yours), select avatars, compare stats and achievement ‘buttons’, and view photos taken by the equally free EpicMix photographers (which work just like Disney’s PhotoPass photographers). And if your tween or teen is skiing without you (or your kids are in lessons while you’re in the lodge), you can log onto EpicMix from any smart phone to find out where on the mountain they’d last ‘checked in’.

Save time for all the extras.

Northstar offers so much more than skiing: in the village, families can take in a first-run movie, ice skate on the public rink (skating is free; if you need skates, rentals are $10/person), roast marshmallows over the open fire pits, and tube at mid-mountain.

Much thanks to Northstar-at-Tahoe for hosting our stay. This compensation came with no expectation of a positive review.

The Home Ranch review: Colorado dude ranch

July 2, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

If you book a stay at The Home Ranch, located just outside Steamboat Springs, Colorado, you’d better get used to hearing the word ‘yes’. As in, ‘Yes, we can accommodate that’, or, ‘Yes, we’ll make that happen’, or ‘Yes, you most certainly can’. And yes, this ‘can do’ attitude is a delight to hear during a dude ranch vacation.

We discovered this rhetoric early on during our early summer visit, when I hoped to spend a little extra time with my assigned horse for the week in the fenced riding arena before hitting the many bridle trails. Immediately, despite (or perhaps because of) a daily schedule that runs like a well-oiled machine, head wrangler Michael Moon made sure it happened. I had two excellent sessions in the arena, with wranglers Davy and Bree. I heard ‘yes’ again and again throughout our stay: yes to the family hoping to hop on mountain bikes at the last minute, yes to dietary needs that ranged from pescatarian to vegan, yes to a run for blueberries at breakfast, yes to fly fishing at a specific location.

We’ve now sampled four North American dude ranches, all of which serve up all-inclusive vacations located amid stunning natural beauty with plenty of opportunity for outdoor recreation. All require Western riding boots and cater to families seeking week-long stays. After that, they differ considerably, which is why it’s important to know how to pick the right dude ranch for your family. Or you can cheat, and book The Home Ranch without risk of disappointment: for almost all families, this Colorado dude ranch will tick all the boxes.

What makes The Home Ranch perfect? Three factors: the variety of included outdoor activities offered in addition to the riding program, the level of service and culinary standards (The Home Ranch holds membership in the prestigious Relais & Chateaux hotel association), and the friendliness and flexibility of the staff, from the dining team to the barn director.

Lodging options at The Home Ranch:

Founded in 1978 by the Stranahan family, The Home Ranch sits on 4,000 acres along the Elk River, in the shadow of the Zirkel Wilderness and the Sawtooth Mountains. The cozily sprawling main lodge houses six guest rooms, several of which have lofts to accommodate kids in a suite-style layout, plus communal ‘living room’ space with a river rock fireplace and tucked away sunroom, a dining room and no-host bar, and front and back decks with lots of lounging options. Out front sits the children’s recreation building, outdoor pool and hot tub, and within easy walking distance amid the aspen trees, eight cabins accommodate from four to eight guests each.

Each of the cabins and the guest rooms in the lodge include in-room WiFi, a small fridge stocked with some sparkling water and snacks, pantry snacks such as granola bars and homemade cookies, and a Keurig coffee maker (in the lodge, we just stepped downstairs in our provided robes to use the Keurig at the wet bar adjacent to the living room). The Home Ranch does not use keys, but you can lock yourself into your room with a deadbolt, and a safe is available in each room and cabin. You also get a hair dryer and makeup mirror, humidifier, and the aforementioned bathrobes. Cabins have fireplaces or wood-burning stoves. We were very comfortable in our lodge room…the only thing I missed was a patio or balcony, so I could enjoy a beverage in the morning or evening while looking out over the beautiful Alpine valley views.

A typical day at The Home Ranch looks a little like this:

Breakfast is served in the lodge dining room from 7:30 am until 9 am, with continental offerings and coffee and tea set out earlier. At breakfast, which is made to order (just about anything you could ask for), with two featured specials per day, head wrangler Michael makes the rounds, taking ‘orders’ for the day’s activities. Morning rides depart from the barn around 9:30 and 10 am, and in addition to kids’ rides led by specialized children’s counselors and adult rides split into ability groups, families can ask for individual family rides as well.

Lunch is served on the front deck, and always included sandwich makings, a variety of salads and veggies, two soup options, and something on the grill every day. Around 2 pm, an afternoon ride is offered for all groups, or families can opt for pool time. During both the morning and afternoon rides, staff members from the hiking and fishing huts offer fly fishing clinics and trips, guided hikes, guided mountain biking on state-of-the-art suspension mountain bikes, and nature walks. Most days, we opted for a morning ride followed by an afternoon playing in the mountains in another capacity.

After the afternoon rides and activities, kids are kept busy with the children’s counselors while parents freshen up or enjoy a dip in the pool, and children’s dinner is served on the deck around 6:30 pm, with adult dinner in the dining room around 7 pm. The kids continue to be looked after until 9 pm.

While this is the general schedule, every day holds a different surprise, such as a brunch ride one day (riding horses to an 11 am brunch), an ‘all day ride’ offered several times during the week (a few hours in the saddle followed by lunch at a remote location and a few hours back), and evening activities that include wine pairing dinners, cookouts, and barn dances.

Highlight: kids are supervised with their own programming with their own dedicated counselors during the morning ride, after lunch, during the afternoon ride/activity time, between activities and dinner, during dinner, and after dinner. That’s a lot of supervision! Of course, you can always take your kids out of the children’s program for any family time. However, kids are not allowed at grown-up dinner.

Dining at The Home Ranch:

When you drive up to the ranch on arrival, the first thing you notice might not be the barn and horses. It might be a greenhouse and gardens. That’s because The Home Ranch hires a horticulture team headed by Home Ranch team member Allison to provide some of the food for the ranch kitchen; in fact, I was told 80% of their salad greens and veggies are homegrown…not an easy feat at elevation in Colorado. Chickens and livestock are also raised on-site for local, sustainable meat and eggs. There are even beehives.

Executive chef Jonathon Gillespie is highly creative (we affectionately called him the mad scientist chef) and our meals were extremely fresh, inventive and delightful every night. All meals utilize the fresh food available, with a whole food-bent. All diets can be accommodated. You will never go hungry; Pastry Chef Douglas Short’s pastries and freshly baked breads were my personal downfall.

The honor bar in the lodge is fully stocked with a good variety of wines, local beers, liquors, and all the mixers you might need. Just go in and help yourself, writing down any selections on the provided tickets organized by cabin or room name. Not realizing The Home Ranch would have such a fully stocked bar, we brought a fair amount of our own booze, and if we had had a balcony in our lodge room, we might have made our own drinks to enjoy there (guest-brought alcohol is permitted, but only in rooms and cabins). However, we quickly realized we didn’t need to. Wine, cocktails and beer can be ordered at dinner as well. Each dinner menu offered two featured wine suggestions, but everything in the bar is available during meals as well.

Included activities at The Home Ranch:

In addition to the elevated cuisine and service, the amount of included activities at The Home Ranch is what sets it apart for me from the others we visited. We tried out just about everything, and the only things we encountered with an extra charge included alcohol (both from the bar and at dinner), items bought in the gift shop, and on-site massages. Of course, you can add more to this list if you ask the ranch to arrange off-site activities, such as clay pigeon shooting, river rafting, hot air balloon rides, or gravity-based (lift-served) mountain biking at Steamboat. However, all on-site activities were included.

Horse program:

The horse program at The Home Ranch offers the best first-day orientation we’ve encountered so far at a dude ranch. The wranglers take the time to explain not just what to do on the horses, but why, and extensive (but not too lengthy) instruction is given in the arena before riders hit the trails. Each guest who wants to ride horseback is paired with a horse of their own for the week, which is very nice for consistency. Wranglers divide up rides into small groups based on ability levels and desires (grouping all riders who want to trot and lope together, for instance, and all riders who want to only walk together). Every wrangler we rode with was excellent, and I never rode the same trail twice. The topography varies between high mountain meadows, woods, and ridges, with plenty of interesting moments as horses picked their way carefully down steep grades or loped along fence lines (as desired by the group of riders).

I never grew tired of riding. As noted above, all-day rides are offered several times during the week, as well as a ‘Ride Fish Ride’ offering, which combines the two sports. One day during the week, wranglers invite guests to help them bring in the cattle from a distant pasture, and the week often culminates in a ‘rodeo’ of horse and cattle games in the arena.

Hiking, biking, and fishing:

Next to the recreation building in front of the lodge sits the hiking hut and the fishing hut. Visit either (or just talk to Michael at meals) to arrange hiking, mountain biking, or fishing. Daily organized hikes were led during our visit by guide Gage, whose repertoire of hikes include trails on the North Fork, Hinman Lake and Overlook, Home Mountain, Burr Ridge, Hahn’s Peak, Three Island, and Zirkel Circle. He can also bring in additional guides for specific routes or needs. Gage also led the mountain biking, which included single track and dirt road biking on The Home Ranch’s off-site (but close by) property, called Murphy-Larson. He also leads additional rides into the national forest land adjacent the ranch, when permitted.

The Home Ranch is an Orvis-endorsed fly fishing lodge, which means that when you visit the fishing hut, the friendly fishing guide staff can outfit you with Orvis gear and offers a fly fishing clinic on the lawn and in the stocked pond on ranch property. We caught two fish in the pond, then one member of our group fished the Elk for two afternoons, catching multiple trout (catch and release). Three miles of the Elk flows right through the property.

Don’t overlook the hiking, biking, and fishing opportunities at the ranch. While horseback riding is often the main draw, some guests spend their entire time fishing or hiking, and we can see why!

Check week-long rates for The Home Ranch here. During the early season and late season, sometimes four-night stays can be accommodated if needed, but we recommend the full week-long program. You won’t want to go home earlier!

Disclosure: We checked out The Home Ranch at the invitation of the ranch, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.

Grown-Up Getaway: How to spend a weekend in Reno, Nevada

March 14, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

I know…you thought I was going to say Las Vegas, right? But I prefer Reno, Nevada to Vegas any day…this medium-sized city is nestled at the base of the Sierra Nevada mountain range and offers plenty to do in the outdoors in addition to gaming and entertainment. Here’s what to do and where to go…with some unexpected surprises along the way!

Grown Up Getaway: Reno Nevada

Where to stay:

You have your pick of casino hotels in Reno, but for the greatest variety of dining options, entertainment and nightlife, pick either the Eldorado, Circus Circus, or Silver Legacy. They’re all connected, and right in a row on Virginia Street, within walking distance of the off-site venues I suggest visiting. In fact, the trio is now called THE ROW, Reno’s most luxurious row of accommodations, dining and spas.

What to do:

To me, the interiors of almost all casino hotels look the same: like the interiors of all malls or cruise ships. Without the benefit of daylight, I get really stir crazy. The good news is, after checking in and getting settled, you can easily step outside and walk along The Riverwalk District for views of the Truckee River. Keep going a few blocks from the hotel complex down Virginia Street to The Midtown District for a more eclectic, art experience with boutique shops, eateries and breweries.

You can easily while away a half day here, checking out the vintage clothing shops, record stores. bubble tea shops and breweries. This part of Reno used to be avoided by most residents but is enjoying a new identity. It’s still gritty, and to be honest, I didn’t think I’d enjoy it when I first walk along the streets (there are still quite a few of the low budget motels and adult bookstores I remember from the past). But after perusing the new shops, I fell in love. There’s an excellent clothing exchange and antique shop called Junkee’s, and one for children’s clothing called Sippees. Mostly, you’re walking along Virginia Street proper, but in a few places, little nooks and crannies lead off to clusters of brew pubs and wine bars. There’s even an ice cream sandwich shop utilizing all local ingredients (called Simple Ice Cream Sandwiches on South Virginia Street).

Best of all, Midtown sports a beautiful collection of murals. Check out a map here, but if you just walk through the district, you’ll see most of them. Once you reach the Truckee (back toward the Eldorado), you can check out the ‘Space Whale’ art installation that was brought here from the Burning Man Playa. If you want to see more art, the Wilbur D. May Museum is adjacent.

In the evenings, Reno offers an abundance of shows and performances; just check the listings for your particular dates. And of course, there’s casino gaming as well. Alternatively, you could also check out this online poker game where you can get a $20 promo at Global and play wherever and whenever you want to.

Spend your second day exploring the outdoors. There are over 30 golf courses within the Reno area, as well as a whitewater kayaking park directly in downtown on the Truckee. Within 20 minutes of downtown Reno, Mt. Rose offers skiing, snowshoeing, sledding and snowmobiling in the winter and mountain biking and hiking in the summer. Just drive another 15 minutes or so on the Mt. Rose Highway to reach the northern Nevada side of Lake Tahoe at Incline Village. Spend time at Ski Beach in the summer, renting paddle boards or kayaks or just enjoying the sunshine.

Where to eat:

In Midtown, check out Brasserie Saint James on S. Center Street or Sup on South Virginia Street. If you’d rather stay in the hotel after freshening up, head to Roxy or La Strada in the Eldorado for the best ambiance. Canter’s Deli in the Silver Legacy is a nice option if you want something casual before catching a show at The Laughing Factory next door.

Have you enjoyed a weekend away in Reno? What are your recommendations?