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Where to ski in Utah: Solitude Mountain Resort

February 7, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Solitude Mountain Resort is one of those ski resorts that grows on you. The first time I skied Solitude was as part of a demo day experience, and I only traversed part of the mountain. Still, I enjoyed it. The next time I visited, my teenage son and I zipped all over the mountain during an epic powder day…hard to dislike that! The third time I skied this Big Cottonwood Canyon resort, the snow was so-so, but hidden stashes remained, and the true peace and tranquility to be found here won me over.

What to expect at Solitude Mountain Resort:

Let’s start with what not to expect: don’t expect crowds, as Solitude really does live up to its name. You also don’t need to expect the usual high lift ticket prices. Even if you opt to buy tickets at the window or online, instead of getting a M.A.X. Pass, Solitude lift tickets are on the reasonable side, comparatively speaking. And I have visited during a long holiday weekend.

Instead, at Solitude, you can expect a local vibe, despite the presence of a base village with lodging for out-of-town guests. There’s an emphasis on off-piste (off the run) skiing and even backcountry skiing (out of bounds), which means the mountain ‘skis bigger than it is’. What do I mean by this? At 1200 acres, Solitude is not considered a very large resort, but if you include all the glade skiing, powder bowls, and off-piste options, which exist depending on snow conditions, it’s very large indeed.

The lifts at Solitude are spaced out enough that some traversing will be necessary at times, but the newest chair, Summit, is not only fast but offers incredible views as you ascend. The village is compact, with condo-style lodging, an inn, a few restaurants, gear rentals, and a snow sports shop, and extremely cozy.

How to plan your trip to Solitude:

I love skiing Utah resorts because so many of them are within an easy commute of Salt Lake City and the international airport. Solitude was within 45 minutes of downtown during my visits. From the base of Big Cottonwood Canyon, it’s only 12 miles. On one trip, because my son and I were skiing multiple resorts during my second time at Solitude, we stayed at the entrance to the canyon, at Residence Inn by Marriott. It was comfortable, convenient, had an excellent complimentary breakfast, and was only about 25 minutes from the Solitude parking lot. I highly recommend this hotel if you want to stay central to both Big and Little Cottonwood canyons.

If your ski trip will be solely at Solitude and/or Solitude and its neighbor, Brighton, definitely stay in the Solitude Village. I stayed two nights at the Inn at Solitude on my third visit and loved the proximity to the mountain. My fourth-floor balcony literally overlooked the Apex Chair, and the heated, outdoor hot tub and pool soothed sore muscles each evening. The Inn at Solitude is just steps from The Hungry Squirrel, which became my go-to apres-ski watering hole, and there are spa services on-site, too. St. Bernard’s restaurant, directly inside the inn, offers an Alpine-style buffet dinner with charcuterie, hot soups, roasts and cobblers every night, and serves an equally satisfying buffet breakfast each morning. The atmosphere is warm and relaxing; we enjoyed drinks in the Library Bar seating area outside the dining room before our leisurely meal. St. Bernard’s was a definite highlight of our time at Solitude. You also get access to Club Solitude by staying at the Inn at Solitude, which has additional pools, a lounge area with video games and a movie screening room, exercise spaces and saunas.

As noted, the village is small, but has what you need (eliminating any need to commute down the canyon for food or supplies). You can find a very small convenience store right at the entrance to Solitude by the real estate office; this is not a grocery store by any means, but does have wine, beer, convenience items and toiletry items. If you are staying in the village and want a second option in addition to St. Bernard’s, head to Honeycomb Grille for excellent American bistro cuisine or to the small pizzeria. Every option is within walking distance of everything else.

You’ll be ski-in, ski-out at Solitude, and only a five-minute drive from Brighton. There are buses that connect the two as well (and you can ski between them…more on that in a minute).

Getting your bearings at Solitude:

There are two base areas at Solitude, at Solitude Village and Moonbeam base area. It’s nice that both have parking lots, to spread out day guests, and both have base lodges with ticket sales and food services. Moonbeam is home to the snowsports center, which is where to go if you’re taking a lesson or dropping off kids for lessons. There are some food venues there, as well as bathrooms.

The village has additional food services, a rental shop and tuning shop, and all the lodging options (which include condos in addition to the inn). A good lunch option can be found at Last Chance Lodge, right on the snow at the edge of the village, where you can find excellent made-to-order tacos and a salad bar. Hang tight though, because the absolute best lunch spot is at mid-mountain (read on to find out where).

Skiing Solitude:

If you enjoy skiing off-piste, Solitude is heaven. The Summit chair drops you off at the entry to Honeycomb Canyon, named, it turns out, not after Utah’s honey production, but after the many mines that dotted the canyon a century ago. Multiple gated chutes connect with the bowl, giving skiers and snowboarders a very long and powdery run to the base near Eagle chair. There’s also a front face at Summit, plenty of tree skiing, and groomer runs for intermediate level.

Tip: if you’re a beginner, pay attention to notices at the base of each chair. Solitude is very good about placing signage where beginner terrain will be lacking, so you can know before going up.

Additional glade skiing is excellent off the older (and slower moving) Sunrise chair, and lots of nice blue groomers can be found off Moonbeam and Eagle. If you’re willing to hike, even more bowl skiing opens up, and backcountry skiers will be happy too: just look for the signage indicating when you need your own backcountry shovel, avalanche beacon, and probe to continue. (This is a good indication that you may need to hike out of the run, too.)

Overall, look at signage no matter your ski ability, and be ready to ask for advice from locals…there will be plenty of skiers and snowboarders around who are familiar with the mountain. If you have a M.A.X. pass or combined ticket for Solitude and Brighton, know that you can ski between the resorts via the Solbright run. And, er, if you accidentally ski that run and end up at the wrong base area without a combined ticket, the nice lifties will let you return via the lift…once.

If you’re an intermediate to advanced skier and want to open up more terrain for yourself, book one of Solitude’s Hidden Tracks mornings. Operating as snow and weather permits, Hidden Tracks is an opportunity to ski with a local instructor who can show you all those hidden stashes and glades you might have missed. And there are a lot! During my Hidden Tracks experience, my guide Josh described skiing off-piste at Solitude as ‘a game of gates’. What he meant: there are gated entrances to off-piste terrain all over the place! These gated areas are maintained by ski patrol for safety and opened and closed at their discretion. Once you know where they all are, as well as which ones will require boot packing (or hiking) to get to the great snow, you’ll be an informed skier who can continue to enjoy these gates the rest of your trip. Have adventurous teens? This session is ideal for them to know their options!

At a mountain like Solitude, which has so much backcountry and side country terrain, Hidden Tracks is well worth your time and money. And while it’s not a lesson, if you’d like instruction or pointers during the morning, your guide will be happy to accommodate you.

Tip: definitely plan to eat your lunch at the Roundhouse mid-mountain between the Moonbeam and Eagle lifts. This circular lodge has a lot of history, and serves just two types of food: Wasatch mountain food (Utah-inspired soups, stews, and burgers), and Himalayan mountain food (wonderful curries and rice dishes). The food is excellent, and we found there was plenty of room…no hunting for a table at lunch.

Solitude lift tickets:

As with all ski vacations, ease the burden on your wallet by planning your lift ticket purchase ahead of time at Solitude. If you only plan to spend a few days, buy multi-day tickets online ahead of time to save money off the approximate $85 adult day pass price. There’s also a Solbright day pass, which gives you access to all of Brighton, too. Personally, I think you’ll be busy enough at just one or the other, but the flexibility is nice.

Pin for later!

Disclosure: We skied Solitude as guests of the resort, for the purpose of reviewing the M.A.X. Pass option. All opinions are my own.

Grown-Up Getaway: Salt Lake City weekend

February 5, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

A Grown-Up Getaway in Salt Lake City? Absolutely! If you haven’t visited Utah’s capital city in a while, you’re in for a surprise. The culinary scene here has exploded, with top chefs from all over the US planting their flags in the city. Craft cocktails are alive and well in watering holes all over Salt Lake City (yes, really) and visitors have a variety of downtown lodging to choose from.

Whether you come to Salt Lake City as a stopover (SLC is a hub airport, after all), or you’re planning to ski in the canyons or in Park City after a taste of urban life, this city in the heart of the Wasatch makes for the perfect Grown Up Getaway for a Salt Lake City weekend.

Where to stay: historic Peery Hotel

Book your reservation at the Peery Hotel, located directly downtown next to the best restaurants, the Salt Palace convention center and Temple Square. The Peery is a historic hotel that’s recently enjoyed a refreshing; walking into the well-appointed lobby felt like a breath of fresh air. The understated yellow tones merged perfectly with the crackling fireplace and cozy seating in the lobby; the adjacent bar and Carnegie’s Public House beckoned.

My room at the Peery overlooked the courtyard, which at first, I saw as a detriment. In fact, it made for a quiet night’s stay, with views that still overlooked the city. The bathroom was over-sized to the point of being opulent, with a jetted tub for two and lovely black-and-white tiled floor and pedestal sinks.

All the rooms at the Peery feature king beds, but ours included a pull-out couch, so could fit a family of four if needed. The bed was uber-comfy and I loved the plush robes.

Cocktails at the Carnegie’s Public House:

Right downstairs off the lobby, Carnegie’s offers pub-fare, but focus on the the cozy bar. I ordered a classic Manhattan here with High West whiskey (a must in Utah, in my opinion). The bar ambiance is warm and welcoming; order an appetizer at the bar if you’d like.

Dinner at Current Fish and Oyster:

You won’t be disappointed in an intimate dinner at one of Salt Lake City’s most up-and-coming restaurants. Current Fish an d Oyster headed up by chef Alan Brines, who has worked previously in Park City and across the Pacific Northwest. Inhabiting a historic building, Current Fish and Oyster has a distinctly urban ‘packing house’ flair, with high ceilings, lots of brick and exposed beams and a gorgeous outdoor patio with fire pits in the summer. During our winter visit, the interior was lively and abuzz with a Sundance Film Festival crowd. I highly recommend the oysters (an ever-changing selection flown directly to SLC daily) and the seafood stew. The wine list is deep, and the cocktail menu inventive.

As alternate dining option, should you have multiple days, we recommend From Scratch (self-explanatory) and Stanza (contemporary Italian), both in the immediate vicinity.

For a change of scene, especially if you won’t be venturing outside of SLC for the ski or mountain scene, consider booking a reservation at Log Haven. Located on Millcreek Canyon Road a world removed from downtown, Log Haven used to be that one tired restaurant every local family booked for anniversaries, celebrations and birthdays. Today, it shines, renowned for its seasonal cuisine and mountain vibe.

What to do:

Visit Temple Square, take in a Jazz game, or enjoy the shopping downtown and in the Sugar House neighborhood.

What is your favorite activity in Salt Lake City? Please share in the comments!

Tahoe with kids: Granlibakken Ski and Sledding Hill

January 31, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Looking to explore off the beaten tourist path in Tahoe with kids? Granlibakken is traditional Tahoe at its most authentic: this old-school resort boosts lodge rooms, condos, sledding, a day spa, and ski learning on poma bar and rope tow-accessed terrain. In the summer, there’s a large treetop rope course and easy access to hiking trails and the lake shore.

Keep this lesser known resort top-of-mind if you are planning a multi-generational vacation to Tahoe or a family reunion because they have multiple lodging options that work for larger families or even wedding parties. All lodging guests enjoy a complimentary buffet breakfast each day, too.

We headed to Granlibakken for a morning of sledding. With four kids in our party, we weren’t keen to pay the hefty tubing prices at larger ski resorts, and didn’t have the option of finding our own sledding hills on Tahoe’s many sno parks (due to snow conditions). Granlibakken proved to be a perfect choice, with a large hill (with multiple routes down) and an organized hike-t0-sled path, plus plastic sledding disks to use. We started in the quaint warming hut, where we bought tickets for $12 per child, and headed outside to the hill. You can also rent snowshoes here or cross-country skis, and access either their own maintained nordic trail or more trails just over the hill.

Tip: Adults can watch for free of course, but should you want to go into the sledding area to help or just to take photos, you will need your own tickets.

It’s fine to bring your own sleds (just make sure they’re not metal), and prepare to spend about an hour or two here. If the snow conditions are good, kids may want to stay to play in the snow longer. In the lodge, you’ll find a counter-service dining option, where the hot chocolate flows and coffee is quite good. There’s a learning hill for kids on skis, with a rope tow, and one lift (poma bar accessed) for intermediate skiers and riders. Check for current lift ticket prices, as we only used the sledding area on our visit.

Date last visited:

December 2014

Distance from the interstate:

Located just outside Tahoe City, about 20 minutes from I-80 and just steps from CA-89.

Directions:

Turn left at the stop light in Tahoe City onto CA-89 S. Drive one-half mile to Granlibakken Road and turn right.

Exploring California Gold Country and the state capital

May 19, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

For families interested in California history, a trip through Gold Country and Sacramento will hit many highlights, focusing on the Golden State’s storied gold rush past.Raft and gold pan in the same river where gold was first discovered in 1848, ride historic steam locomotives, tour the state capital…and visit countless historic museums.

Start or end in Sacramento:

The state capital is, in many ways, the heart of the California history experience. Here’s what not to miss:

Explore Old Sacramento:

In addition to one of the best railroad museums we’ve ever seen (the California State Railroad Museum may even be THE best), Sacramento’s historic district hosts fun shops and eateries and carriage rides along the river. Go during the evening to avoid the heat of summer, or visit any time during the off-season. Read our review of Old Sac and the museum, and also be sure to check the fun schoolhouse museum!

Tour the Capitol:

It’s architecturally stunning, rich with history and free to the public. The California State Capitol Museum is open daily, except for major holidays. The Capitol is located on 10th Street between L and N streets, downtown Sacramento. Learn more here.

Learn even more about Sacramento history:

Don’t miss Sutter’s Fort State Historic Park, which is located in the city but feels a world away. Read our review of Sutter’s Fort. Next, pan for gold yourselves at Amador County Park’s Volcano Memorial Park, located four miles east of the town on Sutter Creek-Volcano Road. The park provides a picnic area, grassy lawns and a gold panning area where you can pan for gold nuggets. Also try Sutter Gold Mine to pan for gold and visit sites (13660 Highway 49, Sutter Creek).

Raft on the American River in the foothills of gold country:

The American River packs a big punch with history and big rapids colliding in an adventure-filled weekend. We recommend rafting the Middle Fork of the American River with OARS.

Where to Stay:

The Citizen Hotel sits adjacent to City Hall and the Capital Building in Sacramento. The historic 1926 Cal-West Insurance building with modern amenities displays such “tongue-in-cheek” touches as leather-bound vintage law books in the lobby, famed political quotes in the elevators, black-and-white political cartoon drawings from midcentury Sacramento Bee cartoonist Newton Pratt throughout the hotel, and lampshades screen-printed with the constitution of California.

Embassy Suites Sacramento is located right on the river at the entrance of Old Sacramento. We even walked from the hotel to the railroad museum. If you’re looking for a location closer to this area than to the capitol building, Embassy Suites is a good bet with their large rooms and complimentary breakfast.

Explore Nevada City:

Nevada City, north of Sacramento on Highway 49, sprang up almost overnight during the California Gold Rush. There’s a lot of history here, including museums and mine tours.

Check out the Firehouse No. 1 Museum:

This museum is run by the Nevada County Historical Society, and despite its name, features exhibits ranging from Victorian-era bridal wear to Chinese railroad workers’ artifacts. Afterward, stop by the Nevada Theater, a big brick building downtown that has hosted the likes of Jack London.

Get more of your train fix:

If you haven’t gotten your fill of train museums, check out the Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum, located between Nevada City and Grass Valley. Learn more about the Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum.

Check out a mine shaft:

Visit Empire Mine State Historic Park, where kids can take a mineyard tour, see a mine model, visit a blacksmith shop, and hike or horseback ride over the park grounds. Daily tours are offered, and many seasonal events and special programming days occur throughout the year.

Visit Coloma:

Coloma California is where California’s gold rush began. Located on Highway 49 between Sacramento and South Lake Tahoe, the Coloma-Lotus Valley is central to California’s Gold Country. Right on the South Fork of the American River, the town offers families the opportunity to bike, hike, and raft in addition to getting their California history on.

Start at Marshall Gold Discovery Park:

See the site of the gold discovery that started the 1849 California Gold Rush, and the working replica of Sutter’s Mill, then learn to pan for gold. Meet docents dressed in period clothes and working as blacksmiths or doing other crafts of the time. The park is pretty touristy, but the history is definitely there.

Stroll through town:

The downtown streets of Coloma is lined with historic building in varies states of repair; some are dedicated historic sites in their own right, others are crumbling in disrepair. Read the plaques on the buildings and stop for a few ‘fun’ detours to souvenir shops and ice cream parlors.

Where to stay:

Whether you’re camping or looking for a cabin stay, the American River Resort is our pick: it’s located right on the water, has plenty of activities for kids.

What’s your favorite California Gold Rush town?

Salt Lake City: Natural History Museum of Utah with kids

February 15, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Considering a visit to Salt Lake City’s Natural History Museum of Utah with kids? Absolutely go! This is one of the best natural history museums we’ve visited, with five stories of exhibits on earth and life science. The museum is located on the University of Utah campus in Salt Lake City, and families can easily spend a full morning or afternoon here.

If you’re visiting in the warmer months, allow time to explore the outdoor spaces, including terraces with views of the Wasatch Mountains and downtown, and hiking trails that lead from the museum. During my visit in winter, these areas were closed due to heavy snow, but this may not always be the case.

Natural History Museum of Utah with kids:

The building housing the museum alone is impressive; its copper exterior and LEED Gold certified features echo the message of the permanent exhibits: one of sustainability and eco-responsibility. Start on the second level (admissions is on level 1) and check out the topographic map in the lobby. Then start in Past Worlds, which houses an impressive dinosaur exhibit with a paleo lab.

In this area is the ‘backyard’ room for young kids; be sure to check it out with toddlers and preschoolers.

The Past Worlds section will lead seamlessly into the First Peoples and Land areas…just follow the sky bridges and pathways. In this way, this natural history section evolves from prehistoric times slowly to present day life, with sections on early humans and anthropology as well as geology and local Salt Lake climate studies. This leads to the large Life section, which has a working naturalist lab with glass walls so kids can watch scientists at work.

At the very top of the museum on Level 5, the Sky section offers amazing city views, an elevated outdoor terrace, and exhibits on the night sky. Past Sky, the circular Native Voices room showcases present-day Native American culture on the Wasatch Front and further, including beyond the Salt Lake basin.

Be sure to check out the current special exhibit, which is housed on Level 3. During my visit, it was an extensive exhibit on poison; both natural poisons found in nature as well as human myths, lore, and history of poison. It was very interesting and had something for all ages.

Admission and hours:

Admission information can be found here. At the time of my visit, adult admission was about $15, teens were $13, and kids 3-12 were $10. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm. As with many museums, it is usually worth looking into a museum membership if you have a large family or plan to visit more than once a year. You can turn your day admission into a membership at the time of your visit.

Note: there is a cafe on site, as well as picnic lunch areas available.

Directions:

The museum is located at 301 Wakara Way, within the University of Utah campus. There is ample parking, and it’s easy to access from the TRAX public transit system.

Boreal Mountain Resort with the M.A.X. Pass

January 16, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

If you read Pit Stops for Kids’ ski coverage regularly, you know we’re big fans of Lake Tahoe, CA skiing. I grew up in the area, skiing at resorts throughout Tahoe, and we try to visit our favorite resorts at least once a season. However, until our visit last month, it had been YEARS since I’d been at Boreal Mountain Resort.

One of the oldest and most established ski resorts in the Tahoe region, Boreal has always been known for its terrain parks, affordability, and easy access from I-80. I remember it best as the first Tahoe resort (to my knowledge) to allow snowboarding. Ever since, it’s been snowboard-centric. Because I’ve never been an avid snowboarder or lover of big jumps, Boreal hasn’t been on my radar for some time.

However, I now have three kids who love terrain parks (one of whom exclusively snowboards). I knew they’d love Boreal’s five terrain parks and half-pipe. But as one of the most affordable resorts in Tahoe, Boreal is on the small side. Before we arrived, I wondered whether its acreage would keep us occupied for a full day.

Enter Woodward Tahoe, located directly at the base of Boreal. This indoor action sport training facility is every kid’s dream: it’s filled with indoor trampolines, foam pits, skate parks, ramps, and more. With a Boreal OnePass, you get access to Woodward in addition to the slopes at Boreal (and nearby Soda Springs ski area if you’re interested). We got our tickets through The M.A.X. Pass, which is a 39-mountain season pass that includes Boreal (more on that below).

How Boreal and Woodward work together:

When you arrive at Boreal and get your Boreal OnePass, you have access to both Woodward and Boreal. Woodward is used in several ways: extreme action sport athletes use it for serious training, classes and camps are offered, and single use sessions are available to the public. To use Woodward during your ski day, you’ll want to make a reservation. Your OnePass gets you a three-hour session, which we found to be more than enough time. We opted to make a Woodward reservation for after lunch, then skied and snowboarded all morning, switching to indoors in the afternoon. Of course, you could do the reverse.

First-timers at Woodward need to take a 30 minute orientation session, in which instructors explain the equipment and show you the proper way to jump (and fall) safely. It’s easy and really helpful. After that, you’re let loose on all the trampolines, foam pits, ramps, and ropes. If you want to use a scooter (to jump off ramps into a pit), you can rent one by the hour. I believe it was $15/hour. Kids can also bring their own, as well as their own BMX bikes or skateboards. To skateboard and ride, helmets are required. We simply used our ski helmets. Check out our favorite Woodward video!

You’ll want to bring a change of clothes for anyone playing in Woodward before or after skiing or snowboarding; there are bathrooms to change in at Woodward, and cubbies in which to store your ski stuff. There’s a nice counter-service lunch and drink place upstairs, where there’s also a nice viewing and lounging area for anyone not participating.

What to expect on the slopes at Boreal:

As noted above, Boreal is known for its terrain parks, and it definitely delivers. We were there in late December, and not every terrain park was up and running yet, but there were still about four to pick from. As a parent, I appreciated the option of an extra-small park, where the jumps and ramps were beginner-sized. Sometimes, beginners and young kids can get in the way or even hurt on large terrain parks. From there, it goes up all the way to expert level. There’s a half pipe, and an additional park called Neff Land, which is sponsored by Neff and includes fun elements like tunnels and side walls.

For those not into terrain parks (like me), Boreal has a surprising amount of glade and off-piste skiing, which I found on the extreme far sides of the resort. The Cedar Ridge chair was especially lovely, with a ride up the mountain amid deep forests. While the overall ambiance at Boreal is still snowboarder-centric, I did find my own place there.

Using The M.A.X. Pass:

As noted above, I visited Boreal after so many years because it is one of the 39 resorts included in our M.A.X. Pass, which our family is trying out this year. Yes, you read that right: the M.A.X. Pass includes 39 different resorts across the US. Many are on the east coast, with a handful in Utah, Colorado, California, and the Pacific Northwest. I’ll be reviewing additional M.A.X. Pass resorts later this winter. For $749, M.A.X. Pass users get five days at each of the resorts, with no blackout dates. I buy a season pass at our local mountain annually, and I can tell you it’s not far off that $749 price just for one property. If your family plans to spend five days at a single M.A.X. Pass resort on vacation this winter, plus could use the pass for a day here and there throughout the rest of the season, the value is definitely there. Check out all the resorts offered on the MAX Pass.

I visited Boreal in partnership with the M.A.X. Pass, for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

Luxury ski lodging: Ritz Carlton Lake Tahoe review

November 21, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

We’ve skied Northstar many times, each time opting for different accommodations. We’ve stayed in home rentals, in a condo at the Village at Northstar, and in a Northstar townhouse. Every time we visit, however, we look at the Ritz Carlton Lake Tahoe, perched at mid-mountain like an elegant fortress, with longing.

Ritz Carlton Lake Tahoe review:

We’ve enjoyed meals at the Ritz Carlton (anyone can stop in mid-ski day for lunch at Backyard BBQ or Manzanita), but last spring, we stayed overnight for the first time. During our two-night stay, we attempted to do it all: we checked out all the amenities, ate on-site, had a treatment in the spa, swam in the pools, and, of course, skied.

What you can expect from a Ritz Carlton Lake Tahoe stay:

In a word: ambiance. When you stay at the Ritz, you will be transported to a beautiful world of roaring fireplaces, elegant woodwork, charming fire pits with comfy couches and s’mores, views of towering pines and ski slopes…you’ll be fully in the mountain retreat atmosphere.

You can also expect convenience and luxury. When you arrive, the valet will whisk all your things away immediately, transporting them all to your room without your lifting a finger. Ditto for your skis, boots, and gear. When you’re ready to ski, the ski concierge desk will have your boots ready, and the team outside at the ‘ski beach’ will have your skis awaiting you. When you return from your ski day, you’ll be greeted and your gear will be taken from you immediately. If you need lessons for the kids, their instructors will pick them up right at the Ritz, and you can enroll them in Ritz Kids as well (if you need full day care).

Everywhere you go, you’ll be treated with the best in guest service. My family and I couldn’t sit down at the pool or walk through the Living Room (lobby area) without someone asking after us, inquiring about our day, or offering their help. Once you check-in, there’s no need for your car…you can take the Highlands gondola directly from the Ritz to the Village at Northstar, and there are several dining options and gear stores right on property.

A few of our favorite winter amenities:

The ski concierge service: this was such a treat. Not having to lug skis or boots anywhere felt amazing. The Ritz is directly at mid-mountain by the Big Easy chair, so it’s completely ski-in, ski-out. Read our review of Northstar California.

Marsh-ology: Every day at 4:30 pm, a Ritz Carlton chef comes out on the deck by the fire pits overlooking the ski slopes and assists kids (and adults) in the art of the perfect s’more. House-made marshmallows are handed out with roasting sticks, and kids create their own treats.

Spa: As you can imagine, the spa is fantastic. If you book a treatment, be sure to go early to enjoy the steam room or sauna; there’s an entire wet spa room, which also has an indoor hot tub. Afterward, sit by the private outdoor pool (for spa guests only) in nice weather. In the relaxation room, you’ll find refreshing fruit-infused water, tea, and nuts and dried fruits.

Swimming pool: One outdoor pool and two hot tubs are located right next to the snow. The atmosphere is wonderful. There are also saunas near the exercise facility, and a separate pool for spa guests. There’s poolside service out on the deck.

Arcade: Our tween loved the arcade. Frankly, I was surprised to even find an arcade at the Ritz Carlton (doesn’t seem too ritzy to me) but he ended up spending significant time there. And it grew on me when I saw that they offer free popcorn and have an area with comfy chairs for movie-watching.

What will not be included in your room rate:

If you stay at luxury hotels, you know the drill: sometimes, a higher room rate means less comes included. This is true at the Ritz Carlton Lake Tahoe, too. Valet parking is required, and will cost $39/night. There’s simply no other place to park on this part of the mountain, and the upside is that no one has to look at a big sprawling parking lot.

Valet parking is not unusual at a luxury hotel, but there’s also a resort fee of $30/night, which is a little harder to swallow. This covers in-room WiFi, which is also commonly missing in luxury hotels, but still. It’s frustrating. Why don’t we all live in a world of free hotel WiFi yet?

Our room was very comfortable and nicely appointed, but I do wish it included a mini-fridge in addition (or instead?) of an honor bar. I think all families want a mini-fridge at any hotel.

Dining at Ritz Carlton Lake Tahoe:

So since you don’t have a mini fridge for storing food, what and where will you eat? You won’t be left wanting. Cafe Blue serves quick-service breakfast items and some lunch things, and the Backyard BBQ serves a causal (though expensive) lunch and apres ski. Our game plan: we ate one meal at Manzanita (more on that below), and divided the rest of our meals between the light fare at The Living Room, which has craft cocktails, appetizers, soups and salads, and a few specialties, and the village (just a gondola ride away).

Manzanita is Ritz Carlton Lake Tahoe’s signature dining experience, and well worth booking for at least one meal. Families can eat out on the deck at lunch, or in the beautiful dining room at lunch or dinner. We had impeccable service from our server Natasha last spring, which really made our meal. Our tween loved her lessons in napkin folding, and we loved the attention she gave our table. Not only were we well-taken care of, but the appetizers especially were amazing. Try the Brussel sprouts if they’re still on the (ever-changing) menu. As noted above, there are also multiple dining options just a gondola ride away at the Village at Northstar. We love the pizza and the sushi options there.

Because I take issue with paying a lot for breakfast when all my kids want is cereal, we still brought cereal bars and oatmeal to make in our room, even without a fridge. I realize this practice doesn’t jive with the luxury hotel experience, but families should always do what works for them. Quick, easy breakfasts in our room is our thing. There’s a coffee maker and coffee service, so it was easy to prepare.

Room rates:

Rates are up there at the Ritz Carlton, of course, and whether the cost will be worth it to your family will depend on how important the experience of a stay is to you…remember, it’s all about the ambiance. Keep in mind that rates will be lower in the shoulder seasons: try a late spring stay like we had, when you can still ski but also enjoy some sunshine, or try a fall visit. During our stay, rates went as low as $249 to an average around $500/night. It’s worth noting that families can upgrade to Club Level, which grants them access to five food presentations per day. If you plan to eat many meals on-site, this upgrade may pay for itself.

Directions:

The Ritz Carlton Lake Tahoe is located at Northstar California ski resort on the north shore of Lake Tahoe. Follow directional signs from the Northstar entrance, or input this address to a GPS system: 13031 Ritz-Carlton Highlands Court, Truckee CA.

Disclosure: We spent two nights at Ritz Carlton Lake Tahoe as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions are our own.

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Ritz Carlton

Alta for everyone: Why this Utah resort should be on your radar

November 9, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

With fourteen ski resorts within 45 minutes of Salt Lake City, it can be hard to decide which to call your own for your next destination ski trip. I love Park City, but don’t forget about the resorts tucked into the canyons just behind Provo, too!

Alta Ski Resort sits in Little Cottonwood Canyon right next to Snowbird. Due to the terrain, skiers immediately feel completely tucked away and isolated from the bustle of Park City and SLC. In fact, you won’t find a ski village here, complete with manufactured pedestrian streets, ice rinks, and Patagonia shops. There’s nothing wrong with any of those things, but that’s just not what Alta is all about. Instead, Alta boosts five boutique lodges (the largest has only 90 rooms) nestled into the canyon, where guests sleep, eat, enjoy apres ski, and yes, dream about Alta’s epic powder.

What Alta’s all about:

The first thing I noticed about Alta is, the people are different here. Firstly, they’re all skiers. Snowboarding is not permitted. For the most part, they’re serious about their winter recreation, and, in the case of Alta Lodge’s stellar return rate, over 70% of them have been here before.

Everywhere I went on the mountain, skiers were ardent Alta fans. The terrain is largely black diamond (expert), the chairs are mostly slow-moving doubles and triples, and the slopes are fairly unforgiving. Unlike at some resorts that plan out numerous cat tracks and groomers, Alta expects a lot of its skiers: there are many places its necessary to traverse, many opportunities to hike for higher terrain, and even a rope tow needed to get from one base to the next. In fact, long-time skiers affectionately joke Alta stands for Another Long Traverse Ahead.

Alta is an experience more than it is a mountain. It’s about the people, the traditions, the light, deep snow.

Average snowfall in Little Cottonwood Canyon is a whooping 551 inches per season, and Alta uses it to the max, with 2,200 lift-served acres (more if you skin it) and over 115 runs. Words to come to mind while I ski Alta include ‘authentic’, ‘old-school’, and ‘no joke’.

While Alta is known as an ‘expert hill’, there’s terrain for everyone. On its Sunnyside base, the Alta ski school provides a welcoming, genuine experience, and there are plenty of green runs to get you going. What I noticed Alta lacked was the in-between: if you like long, blue groomer or rolling corduroy, it seemed to be in short supply. If you’re an expert, the Supreme and Collins lifts will take you to big bowls, powdery slopes, and tree stashes. We skied on a powder day, and there was so much terrain (with so few crowds), we easily found powder well after lunch.

Alta Lodge:

As mentioned above, Alta Ski Resort has five lodging options, as well as a collection of mountain homes for rent privately. I stayed at Alta Lodge, situated just above the base area overlooking Goldminer’s Daughter and the expanse of the canyon. From the outside, Alta Lodge is decidedly rustic; in fact, it reminded me of the lodges we stayed in at Tahoe back in the ’70s and ’80s. A poma lift takes you to the door, which opens onto a cozy, warmly-appointed lobby and living space. Here, skiers can warm themselves by the fire in comfy chairs, enjoy coffee, tea, and cookies in the afternoon, and take in stunning mountain views in the small sitting room.

Downstairs, the ski locker room has been recently redone, and even features a ping pong table to use before or after your ski day. The lodge is ski in, ski out, and a four-course dinner and full breakfast is included in your nightly room rate.

Down the winding hallways of the lodge, two hot pools and saunas await skiers needing to soak, and upstairs, the Sitzmark Club offers incredible ambiance for apres ski drinks. It’s true that when not skiing, your Alta lodging choice will be where you spend all your time while in Little Cottonwood Canyon, but trust me, you won’t mind.

In fact, I loved the simplicity of knowing I’d park my car once, and spend all my time in the same cozy place.

During my stay at Alta Lodge, I noticed it was not unusual to see the CEO and the owners frequently. This lodge has been family-run since 1959, and is currently celebrating their 75 anniversary (of opening)! Guests come back year after year; in fact, return guests get first dibs at rebooking for the following year. I loved the all-inclusive feel to the lodge, as well as the genuine community atmosphere. Skiers mingled in the bar and at dinner, sharing stories of the slopes.

Included in the room rate:

In addition to a full dinner and full breakfast daily, guests have complimentary ski lockers, the hot tubs, and a full childcare program. Kids are taken to ski school and brought back, given a kids’ dinner separately (while adults are still enjoying the bar or pools), and entertained in a staffed childcare area after dinner. They also transport kids to and from ski school lessons. (Note: full-time childcare is not available). I met the childcare staff and was impressed by the quality of this free program.

Guests can invite additional friends to dinner (using credit for the next night…eat out or trade with friends) or substitute a lunch for dinner. A full lunch is available at the lodge during the day (extra charge unless substituting). There’s also the daily afternoon tea, including pastries, cookies, and hot beverages, and complimentary yoga classes in the mornings before the ski day.

Standard room rates are around $400, with lower priced rooms that have not yet been remodeled, and even dorm rooms for as low as $122. All rooms, regardless of type, come with meals. I believe the value is absolutely there. We will be back with the whole family!

Skiing at Snowbird:

While at Alta, you should absolutely ski Snowbird as well. Located right ‘next door’, Snowbird offers terrain that rivals Alta (some say it’s better) and both can be skied with the same Mountain Collective Pass. It’s possible to ski from one resort to the other, so I absolutely recommend the dual pass. Alta lift tickets start at $89/day for adults, making it significantly less than larger Park City area resorts. Snowbird is under $100, and in spring, is reduced as much as 50%. It’s possible to upgrade day passes to include both Snowbird and Alta.

We experienced Alta and the Alta Lodge as guests of Ski Utah, for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.

Grown-Up Getaway: Sundance Resort Utah

November 7, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

You probably don’t need an excuse to plan a luxurious grown-up getaway this fall or winter, but just in case, I’ve got the ultimate: a stay at Sundance Resort. An easy commute from Salt Lake City, Sundance is located in the heart of the Wasatch Mountains directly under the shadow of dramatic Mt. Timpanogos. It’s affectionately known as ‘Bob’s place’, for founder and owner Robert Redford. And yes, he still spends ample time here.

In summer and fall, Sundance is a prime location for hiking, biking, and generally communing with nature, and in winter, its ski resort offers 450 acres of terrain. All year round, guests can enjoy Sundance’s stellar spa, art studio (with classes), yoga, meditation, and fine dining.

Why I recommend Sundance for the grown ups:

Don’t get me wrong: Sundance Resort is equipped to accommodate kids. It has refreshingly low lift ticket rates, which appeal to families, and the woodsy setting will certainly make kids feel at home. The thing is, you may not want them there. Sundance’s vibe is decidedly serene, with an emphasis on self-reflection, revitalization, and pampering. Imagine yourself sliding into your private jacuzzi tub or chilling on your deck in an adirondack chair, cocktail in hand…without kids to supervise.

The feeling of relaxation starts before you arrive. The drive from Salt Lake City (I came from the airport) takes about 45 minutes, the last few winding through a slotted canyon as you climb into the mountains. Immediately, you feel isolated from the bustle of the valley, a feeling that’s reinforced when you visit the reception center then wind uphill to find your accommodation tucked into the trees. The entire resort feels very intimate and manageable: you won’t see big parking lots or lodge buildings.

Lodging at Sundance:

I stayed in a studio suite about a 10 minute walk from the reception area. Lodging ranges from rooms and condos (of which there are 100) to a smaller selection of mountain homes. Condos range from studios to three-to-four bedrooms. My studio included a kitchenette (microwave, sink, coffee maker, and mini-fridge with counter space), a wood-burning fireplace, sitting area, large bathroom with jacuzzi tub, bedroom area with one of the most comfortable beds I’ve ever slept in, and a porch with chairs overlooking a creek and woods. The entire space was decorated with purpose: it was artsy, warm, and inviting.

Dining and shopping:

Sundance is known for boutique shopping, high dining, and outdoors-pursuits. In the central area at the base of the hill (by the reception area) is Sundance’s main shop, with everything you’d find in the Sundance catalogue, from jewelry to boutique clothing to logo items. Across the street, the small art studio offers classes as well as fine art. In fact, Sundance hires two glassblowers to be on staff seasonally, who make all of the resort’s glassware.

Sundance has a marketplace with items like sandwiches, smoothies, and pastries, plus candy and snacks to buy a la carte. The Foundry is what Sundance calls its ‘casual’ dining restaurant, but I might beg to differ (in a good way). The log cabin feel of the room is both warm and elegant; don’t miss the wall-to-wall mural at the back. You can get breakfast, lunch, and dinner here; we ate a wonderful breakfast before skiing.

Sundance’s signature restaurant is the Tree Room, where I dined surrounded by the private art and native artifact collections of Robert Redford himself. The dining experience here is exquisite, with impeccable service and a deep wine list. Expect to pay at least $30-40 per entree, but also prepare to be very satisfied with the experience. The atmosphere in the Tree Room is certainly refined, but not in a stuffy way. We had a lively group who loved socializing, and we felt right at home.

Also not to be missed: The Owl Bar, located adjacent to the Foundry. This rustic (yet again, somehow elegant) bar is the ideal apres ski spot, with craft cocktails served over the bar that once stood in Thermopiles, Wyoming during the late 1890s. Its most famous guests back in the day: Butch Cassidy and his gang. You can get appetizers and small plates in the Owl Bar, as well as beer on tap.

The Spa at Sundance:

My massage therapist at Sundance told me that she has clients who fly into Sundance and book a stay solely for the spa. After the most in-depth facial I’ve ever had, I can see why. The spa is located amid the lodging rooms at Sundance, and like the rest of the resort, it’s small and intimate. When I arrived, I was shown a place to change and given a Sundance tote bag to store my belongings (no locker rooms here). I was next directed to a chair by the fireplace, where I enjoyed a hot stone foot soak pre-treatment. The spa has a full line of services.

Outdoor recreation at Sundance:

Every day during our stay, complimentary yoga and meditation classes were offered at the yoga yurt at Sundance. There are also numerous walking and jogging trails. In summer, you’ll find horseback riding, mountain biking, and golf. In winter, there’s both a downhill skiing resort and nordic center for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. The downhill resort has just one base area (right by the shop and Foundry), with its own rental center, small pro shop, and lift. Three additional lifts connect the first to a total of 45 runs.

Would I come for the skiing? Maybe not…after all, Sundance has some stiff competition in that department in the region. However, at Sundance, it’s about the overall experience: no lift lines, great service, wonderful food, a relaxed atmosphere. I’d be hard pressed to name a more beautiful ski area, as you ski directly below stunning Mt. Timpanogos. If you go, absolutely take a ski break at the top for some nachos at Bearclaw Cabin; you’ll feel as though you’re at the top of the world.

Rates:

Rates begin at about $395 per night, and go upward from there. However, rates vary widely by season and room type, and come with major perks: rooms come with two complimentary lift tickets, as well as first tracks privileges. You also get free yoga and other wellness classes. Some rooms do include full kitchens and lofts for kids; if you do bring the family, you’ll want this amenity because eating every meal out would get very expensive. Without the kids, I’d splurge on the wonderful dining opportunities.

Directions:

Sundance is located at 8841 N. Alpine Loop Road . From Salt Lake City, get onto I-80 east. Then turn right onto I-215 heading south. Next take I–15 South towards Provo. Continue on I-15 to exit #272 (which is 800 North in Orem) turn left heading east. Stay on 800 North through Orem to the mouth of the canyon. Stay in left hand lane, which will drop onto Hwy 189. Continue up the canyon approximately 7 miles to Scenic Route #92 which is the first left after the tunnel. Sundance is 2 miles up the canyon on the left.

Disclosure: I was a guest of Sundance Resort for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.

Nebraska with kids: Where to play and eat in Omaha

August 10, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Situated at the intersection of Interstate 80 and the Missouri River, the city of Omaha offers a surprisingly broad array of great attractions for families–and for Midwestern families, a vacation destination within driving distance of home. We’ve already covered Omaha’s world-class zoo, two of its museums, and the Holiday Inn Downtown. For more of a taste of where to eat in Omaha, read on:

The Amazing Pizza Machine:

If you’re on the road and you need dinner and a place for the kids to stretch their legs for a while, try the Amazing Pizza Machine, a buffet, arcade, and fun-plex located in the southwest part of the metro area. Featuring an extensive buffet of pizza (the standard flavors as well as more creative types), salads, soups, desserts, baked potatoes, taco bar, pasta bar, and a nightly special, even the pickiest eaters will find something to their liking. The dining area was sparkling clean when we visited.

Every person who enters is required to purchase a buffet (prices here), but the Amazing Pizza Machine offers a number of dine-and-play packages. You can also buy a more extensive package for the kids while you sit in the relative quiet and peace of the dining area, which is at the far end of the building from the games and rides and has TVs everywhere.

The play area is expansive and varied, with all the usual things you’d expect to see at an arcade. When we were there, we only found one that was out of order. There are many different play packages, including one for unlimited games like pinball machines and rides (rides are Go Karts, bumper cars, a mini roller coaster that’s more intense than it looks, and Frog jumper). We found that for our family, with kids who aren’t used to amusement park rides, a ride or two apiece was plenty. Note: laser tag is available, but purchased separately from all packages.

Of particular note is the area for little ones, with a climbing structure and arcade games aimed at the younger set. Prices and crowding are lower during the week. However, that’s not always a good thing; Go Karts and bumper cars, for instance, are more fun with a crowd.

A partial list of other things to do in the Omaha area:

Enjoy the beauty of nature with a stroll through Lauritzen Gardens.
Attend an art program or explore the fabulous (free) art collection housed in the Joslyn Art Museum.
Take in a minor league baseball game with the Omaha Storm Chasers, affiliated with the Kansas City Royals.
Take a walk over the Bob Kerry Pedestrian Bridge and stand in two states (Iowa and Nebraska) at once.
Take a gondola ride around the fountain at Heartland of America Park.
Stay and/or play at the Coco Key Water Resort
Shop or dine in the Old Market district near the river.

A handful of shout-outs to places we stopped to eat:

The Ethnic Sandwich Shop: Housed in a red barn in a nondescript neighborhood, with outdoor seating only. If you want to picnic, this is your source. Serves hot and cold 8-inch subs, primarily Italian. We can recommend the Capone, the meatball sub, the Reba’s Boy, pasta salad and tossed salad. Bonus: the brownies and cookies! Location: 1438 S. 13th.
Dolci: Vanilla soft-serve ice cream with mix-ins, plus Italian desserts from napoleons to canoli. Bonus: adjacent to a candy store! Location: 1003 Howard St.
Cupcake Omaha: Cupcakes. Big cupcakes. Big, filled cupcakes. Need I say more? Location: 501 S. 11th.
Old Spaghetti Works: Pasta and fabulous, quirky decor (think carousel horses hanging from the ceiling and a salad bar housed in the bed of an antique truck). Most entrees come with salad bar, which is fairly basic but very fresh and very good. On a Monday night, our kids ate free. Location: 502 S. 11th street.

Whatever you do, make sure to download the Omaha Savings app, which is a streamlined, easy to use visual list of discounts usable at many of Omaha’s headline attractions.

Our family enjoyed the Amazing Pizza Machine as guests of Visit Omaha, in exchange for an honest review. Photo credit: Flickr Commons.