Smuggler’s Notch with kids: guide to skiing for adults

I grew up skiing in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, so I have a healthy skepticism of New England skiing. The mountains aren’t as big, there’s not as much snow (although there also aren’t as many giant Manzanita bushes to get stuck in…just saying), and there’s too much ice. Well, I still can’t ski on ice, but I’m coming around to New England ski resorts, and Smuggler’s Notch is one of the best spots I’ve seen. There are plenty of sections of intermediate trails (especially on Morse Mountain), but two of the three mountains (Madonna and Sterling) are full of legitimate black diamonds and double black diamonds. Smuggler’s Notch also boasts New England’s only triple black diamond, but it was closed on the weekend we visited (and from the look of it, I wouldn’t have tried it had it been open!).

If you like to go off-trail, Smuggs is the where you want to be! During our stay, I experienced a great session with an instructor who teaches adult lessons, and we barely touched a groomed, marked run the entire time. Off-trail bumps and tree runs are everywhere, and the rule is thus: if you ski off-trail but are able to return to a marked run, you haven’t gone out of bounds. Meaning almost everything is fair game! We even hiked a little bit above the top of Sterling to the Long Trail, and skied down a tree run that finally (and legally!) linked back up to one of the marked runs.

Even if you’re a very good skier, it can be a lot of fun to take a lesson, because it’s a great way to get an insider’s view of the mountain. There were all kinds of great trails I never would have found on my own. I have to say that I haven’t had that much fun skiing in years! It didn’t hurt that it snowed 3–4 inches the night we got there, and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky all weekend!

smuggsSkiers will also appreciate the way the mountain is set up. The Village Center, condos, swimming pool, etc. are all located at the base of Morse Mountain. This is also where you’ll find the kids’ programs and Treasures (child care). To get over to Madonna and Sterling, where the big skiing is, you have to ride up the Morse Mountain lift and ski over to the other lifts. At the base of Madonna and Sterling, there is a small base lodge, and not a lot else. (You can also drive directly to Madonna and Sterling, but if you’re staying in the condos, it’s easier to ski over.) This configuration minimizes traffic and congestion at the most popular lifts, so you feel like you’re at a small, funky hill with a lot of great terrain.

Tip: The fact that both Madonna and Sterling lifts are pretty slow doubles really enhances the funky old resort feel, and it’s also why it’s great to come on a day that’s not too crowded. Lift lines can take a while when it’s busy.

Smuggler’s Notch offers morning and afternoon adult lesson sessions, lasting two hours. Afternoon sessions are small (lessons are limited to five skiers), but during both my vacation days, I happened to be the only one signed up, and had a private lesson! If you have older kids (ages 6–17), you can sign them up for morning or afternoon lessons to coincide with your own. This would work well for kids who are independent skiers and don’t want to sign up for an all-day program, but are looking to learn some new skills.

Smuggler’s Notch with kids: programming for babies, toddlers, and preschoolers

smuggsIf you’re like a lot of families with very young kids (think pre-K), the prospect of a ski vacation is tempting, but overwhelming. Who wants to spend precious vacation dollars taking endless runs on the bunny hill with a toddler while your partner is stuck in the lodge chasing a baby determined eat every French fry she finds on the floor? Family ski resorts like Smuggler’s Notch understand this, and provide age-appropriate programming to help families take (and actually enjoy!) ski vacations with young kids. To put Smuggs’ legendary family-friendliness to the test, my husband and I set out from our home in Massachusetts with Homer (3) and Greta (1) for a three-night stay.

Homer was just old enough to enroll in their Discovery Camp (included in most packages), and Greta spent some quality time at the TREASURES child care center (ages six weeks to three). And what did TJ and I do? We skied all day, ate lunch at the lodge, and lounged in the hot tub. Heaven!

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The Discovery Dynamos program is for kids aged three to five, and accommodates all ability levels. Homer had already been skiing a few times this winter, so he was bumped up to a group that uses the beginner chair lift, but a lot of the younger groups use Sir Henry’s Learning Hill. This is a nice, wide bunny hill serviced by a magic carpet (it is also where the Burton Riglet Park for beginner snowboarders is located). Also, much to Homer’s delight, the program uses a tractor and wagon to haul kids to the upper slope-side condos, where they can enter the run and ski down without having to use the lifts (easier on the instructors, too!). The camp starts at 9 am, breaks for lunch around 11:30, then goes back out to ski until about 2:30 pm. In the afternoon, the kids come back inside for some indoor entertainment (on Homer’s days they had a science show and a movie). Needless to say, they sleep well at night!

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The instructors are friendly, very focused on the kids, and seem to be really excited about reaching a new generation of skiers. If at all possible, I recommend that your child spend a few consecutive days in the program. Homer had the same teacher every day, and became a little more confident and outgoing every day. If your kids are older, keep in mind that there are similar all-day programs for kids up to 15 years of age.

Tip: Though all ski and board ability levels are welcome at the Dynamo level, kids must be potty trained!

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While Homer ripped it up with his instructor, Greta spent her days at TREASURES. The facilities are beautiful, and the staff is extremely helpful and accommodating. They even have their own magic carpet lift in the adorable outdoor play area for the older toddlers to try some skiing (refer to the Little Rascals on Snow program)! They specialize in non-recurrent childcare, meaning that they are good at making your child feel comfortable in a new environment, with unfamiliar adults and children. Snacks and meals are provided, but you can bring your own if there’s something special that you know for child will like. They also ask you about mealtimes and naptimes, and really do their best to stick to your normal routine. At the end of the day, you’re given a card detailing everything your child ate, when they slept, and an overall impression of their day.

TREASURES is located right on the trail coming down into the Village Center, so you can easily ski in/ski out to check on your little one. One of the best features of the baby room (0–16 months) is the two-way mirror by the door that allows you peak in without being seen (and thereby causing a meltdown!). But the proof is in the pudding—Greta, who isn’t in any formal, regular childcare at home, had two and a half great days at TREASURES, which equated to TJ and I having two and a half great days of adults-only, guilt-free skiing!

Smuggler’s Notch Resort: planning your winter ski vacation with kids

If you’re planning a ski vacation at one of the resorts in Vermont with young kids this winter, then Smuggler’s Notch, Vermont is the place for you. We recently got back from a great weekend at Smuggs with Homer (3) and Greta (1), and the convenience and accessibility of the resort made the weekend not just possible, but so much fun!

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When reserving Smuggler’s Notch lodging, it’s important to note that the resort is comprised of five distinct ‘communities’ of condos, each with their own pros and cons. We opted to stay in a Village East slope-side condo (Hakone) that was just steps away from the Morse Mountain lift and the Village Center (which is complete with restaurants, a rental shop, and even a small grocery store, well-stocked with Ben and Jerry’s, of course!). We highly recommend staying this close to both amenities and the lifts with young kids; parents know just how important it is not to have to lug skis in and out of the car, pack lunches and backpacks to leave in the base lodge, and wrestle kids in and out of car seats every morning and afternoon! If you’re staying in one of the communities a little farther away from the action, however, there are shuttles going to and from the Village Center and Madonna/Sterling Mountains all day.

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All Smuggler’s Notch condos are well-equipped with linens, dishes, pots and pans–basically everything but the groceries. You have the option of choosing anything from a studio to a five-bedroom condo (descriptions and layouts of which can be found at the Smuggs website), making it easy to find the perfect fit for your family.

When you make your condo reservation, you’re given the option of signing up for a Club Smuggler’s package (Base, Classic, or Summit). Packages include lodging, lift tickets, and the use of many amenities. With the Classic and Summit packages, Treasures childcare (six weeks to three years) and the all-day Discovery Camp (ages 3–5) are included. Be sure to take advantage of this: when you break down the per-day expenses of child care and lift tickets, you’ll see that these packages are a great deal!

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There are several great dining options at the Smuggs Village Center, but we mostly stuck to the groceries we brought from home (all condos have a full kitchen) and the Morse Mountain Grille in the nearby lodge. Travel Tip: the Morse Mountain Grille has a take-out option. Great for after a long day of skiing, and even better when you have two tired toddlers on your hands!

In the Village Center you’ll also find some bad-weather entertainment options like a heated indoor pool and hot tubs and the Fun Zone, a big indoor arena with a bounce house, all kinds of slides and games, and even a fenced-off area for babies and toddlers. For older kids (13¬18), Teen Alley and Outer Limits are supervised centers with Internet access, Xbox 360, and other activities.

Seasonal Tip: Keep in mind that the fun doesn’t stop when the snow melts. Smuggler’s Notch is a year-round resort with lots of kids’ programming all summer long. Activities for kids and grownups include swimming, hiking, climbing, tennis, and lots more.

Date last visited: February 3–6, 2012

Distance from the interstate: Smuggs is about 40 miles off I-89 in Vermont. Check out www.smuggs.com for directions; search engines like googlemaps or mapquest might try to send you to Smuggs via VT-108, a portion of which is closed between Stowe and Jeffersonville in the winter!

Rates and reservations: Rates vary by condo size, location, and time of year. Rates (including Club Smugglers Base, Classic, or Summit packages) range from $109 to $209 per person for adults, and from $79 to $199 for kids.

Directions: Smuggler’s Notch is located at 4323 Vermont Route 108 South in Jeffersonville. The most reliable directions are on the Smuggs website. Check-in is located in the Village Center by the main parking lot as you enter the resort.

As I disclose whenever applicable, Smuggler’s Notch hosted our stay for the purpose of review. While we appreciate such Vermont hospitality, this compensation came with no expectation of a positive review.

On the Rise Bakery

Photo courtesy of On The Rise Bakery

Bridge St & Esplanade
Richmond, VT

Sometimes, you just want to have your cake and eat it too! And if your family vacation takes you through scenic Richmond, Vermont, On The Rise Bakery offers just that…literally. A wonderful place to stop for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, On The Rise is more than just a quaint eatery; it’s kid-heaven. Located adjacent to a park, kids can burn off energy while waiting for their bagels or muffins.

Even better, On The Rise is dedicated to sustainable food services. Most of what they serve comes from the local farming community, and if you’re looking for gluten-free fare, you’ll be right at home! (Another bonus: the building is equipped with wi-fi.)

Says MissMagPie of Find and Go Seek, an awesome guide for all things Vermont, “There are several tables set up inside the building and on the deck. Within eyesight is Richmond Volunteers Playground if the kids want to run and stretch their legs. There is even a sandbox right on the porch of the restaurant. In the evenings this is also a venue for local musicians.”

Date last visited: May 2010.

Distance off the interstate: Five minutes off I-89.

Hours: New extended hours! Monday/Tuesday: 6AM-6PM, Wednesday-Saturday: 6AM-10PM, Sunday: 6AM-2PM (Brunch 8AM- 1PM)

Bathrooms: Located on-site.

Directions: Take Exit 11 off of I-89, then go to the center of the village (east on RT 2). Take a right at the light onto Bridge Street, then head down the hill, across the tracks past Railroad and Church street. The bakery is on your right. Turn into the parking lot at Volunteers Green.

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