Santa Fe with kids: dining, shopping, and touring

When most parents think of Santa Fe, New Mexico, spas and art galleries come to mind. However, this small town in the high desert has its share of kid-friendly activities. Here where to go, where to eat, and where to shop if vacationing in Santa Fe with kids.

santa-fe-with-kids

Attractions:

There are a few must-sees in Santa Fe with kids. To start, you’ll want to tour the Plaza and Palace of the Governors with kids, which is located in the heart of downtown and within walking distance of most hotels. Historically a trading center, the Palace of the Governors features a shaded walkway filled daily with local artisans; the Native Americans here get their spot by lottery. Wares range from small handmade trinkets for a few dollars to $400 fired bowls and other pottery.

palace-of-the-governors

Also in the Plaza is the Five and Dime, a kitchy souvenir store filled top-to-bottom with fun gifts and foods. Be sure to head to the back of the store to try a Frito Pie; this Santa Fe treat is a bag of Fritos filled with chili, cheese, and toppings. Many other shops line the square, including Rippel, featuring authentic silver buckles and innovative hand-crafted jewelry, but even better for kids is the outdoor market area one block toward the Loretto Chapel and La Fonda Hotel on E. San Francisco: here you’ll find baskets of low-cost gems, necklaces, bracelets, and trinkets.

plaza-santa-fe

Canyon Road features over 100 of the world’s finest art galleries, but if your kids won’t last long in this environment (mine don’t!) head left of the Canyon Road entrance to the site of Fort Marcy and the Cross of the Martyrs. This regional park includes a short walkway up the hill to the site of the original fort from the 19th century, and offers a beautiful view of the city. Get your art fix by visiting the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, ideal for kids.

cross-of-the-martyrs

For adventure in the high desert, join Santa Fe Walkabouts for a 4×4 ride along historic Route 66 to see remnants from the Camino Real trading route and a fun drive to the bottom of a steep mesa.

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Dining:

When choosing dining options in Santa Fe with kids, plan a meal at each of two restaurants, both located near downtown on Guadalupe Street. The Cowgirl Hall of Fame  is well-known as a local watering hole with nightly live entertainment, but this fun and funky restaurant is so much more. Head to the back of this meandering establishment to find an outdoor seating area in a courtyard featuring a full-sized children’s play structure, plus chalkboard walls and other toys.  Listen to the live music, enjoy one of many local microbrews on tap or a great margarita, and let the kids play! The food here ranges from burgers and fries to authentic New Mexican cuisine. We recommend the nachos as an appetizer.

cowgirl-hall-of-fame

Across the street at the railway depot is Tomasitas, with the most authentic Northern New Mexican cuisine in the city (according to locals). Tomasitas is completely casual, making it an excellent pick for kids, plus serves up the best margarita I’ve ever had. The guacamole and blue corn chips pair with the margarita perfectly, and their entrees range from enchiladas, tacos, chile rellenos, and tamales. All meals come with authentic sopaipilla (fried bread) and feature green or red chiles in the New Mexican tradition. Ask your server to have the chile sauce on the side if you’re not used to it: it’s very hot, but delicious! A kids’ menu is available, and restless kids can go outside with a parent to watch for trains.

tomasitas-santa-fe

Check out our review of the Inn and Spa at Loretto, our Santa Fe lodging pick.

What to do in Texas Hill Country with kids

Spring and fall are perfect times of year to visit the quaint town of Fredericksburg, tucked away in the scenic Hill Country of Texas. The weather is warm but mild, making this an economical spring break getaway for families within driving distance or those wanting to escape colder weather in the north (who want to stay in the States for break). If you aren’t familiar with Fredericksburg, this tourist town of less than 10,000 attracts millions of visitors per year, who enjoy their German-Texan heritage, historic buildings and museums, excellent shopping and fun dining scene.

What to do in Texas Hill Country with kids:

Start at the Fredericksburg visitor center located just one block from Main Street on E. Austin. Here, you can start with a trolley tour to orient yourselves to the town. The tour highlights area history, including the unique town square, which the German settlers utilized for everything from celebration (think Octoberfest!) to protection from the Comanche tribes in the area. Kids will find the trolley tour fun (it’s about 45 minutes long, but you can hop off as desired), but mostly, this is a good chance for Mom and Dad to get a feel for the downtown area to decide what to come back to later.

Next, explore the National Museum of the Pacific War. Wondering why there’s a sprawling, world-class museum dedicated to WWII’s Pacific theater in the heart of little Fredericksburg, Texas? It’s thanks to one of their own, Admiral Charles Nimitz. When the town expressed interest in creating a museum in his honor, he only agreed if they highlighted all the men who served under him and the women who sacrificed on the home front, instead of only focusing on his career. The result: a massive, beautiful museum that does an excellent job of telling the story of both the American experience in the Pacific as well as the Japanese perspective. There’s a fairly small gallery focusing on Nimitz, with the rest of the main museum offering gallery after gallery that walks visitors through the WWII Pacific theater chronologically. You get a feel for the early conflict, then experience the bombing of Pearl Harbor in a very tasteful and dramatic gallery. More rooms follow, highlighting the years of battles in the Pacific.

Note: Look for the kiosks with audible oral history. The museum has curated thousands of first-hand narratives from veterans of the Pacific theater, some of which are on offer in the galleries. Take a moment to listen to their stories in their own voices.

There are also outdoor spaces and galleries with WWII planes and vehicles, and even submarines and torpedos. It’s very impressive all they have on display here. Be sure to save time to see the Japanese Garden of Peace outside and the Pacific Combat Zone (one block away). This space is where they do reenactments and even when not in use, the battlefield is fascinating the behold. There’s a hangar with multiple vehicles as well.

Tip: This museum takes a lot of time and takes a lot out of you. Your tickets (which are only $15 for adults, by the way) are good for 48 hours. I suggest breaking up this museum into two visits, with at least a lunch break in-between, if not a whole day.

Next, check out the Pioneer Museum Complex on the edge of downtown. This outdoor museum is much more manageable and takes you through the general experience of the German immigrants who settled Fredericksburg. A short video tells the story of their hardships upon arrival to the New World, then families can tour through multiple buildings, including a farmstead, barn, blacksmith shop, and even a schoolhouse. Docents and museum workers are on-hand to answer questions, and a self-guided map leads you through.

Fredericksburg

Outside of Fredericksburg, do not miss Sauer-Beckmann Living History Farmstead in Lyndon B Johnson State Park. This large state park has a lot going on, including wild bison herds and Texas Longhorns, and the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park (a national park site) where families can tour Johnson’s Texas White House. But kids will be most interested in the Sauer-Beckman farmstead, and that’s where you should start.

This living history site is nothing short of amazing. Docents and state and national park rangers work the farmstead daily (8 am to 4:30 pm), and when I say ‘work’, I mean work. Dressed in period costume, they keep a working, productive farm, including milking cows, tending to sheep and chickens, making bread and butter, canning vegetables, butchering and curing meats, sewing and weaving…all of it. They live without electricity or running water all day long, and in every room in every building, kids can observe their work and ask questions. I learned how to utilize the gallons of milk produced by their cow every day without the aid of refrigeration…it involves turning milk to cream to butter to curds and whey to cottage cheese to hard cheese, basically!

living history

There are gardens and pastures to check out, and kids can observe the natural wind energy produced by the windmill. If you’re at all interested in knowing how to ‘live off the grid’, talk to these guys! Everyone was fascinated.

Afterward, drive the short distance to the national park side of the park to see Lyndon B. Johnson’s ranch, which includes a guided house tour and the chance to check out their airstrip and airport hangar. Older kids may be interested in this, but if you have young kids, I recommend spending more time at the living history park or enjoying the beautiful park grounds, which include a river, picnic areas and even a swimming pool (open seasonally).

With the rest of your time in Fredericksburg, explore the fun shopping and dining downtown. It’s a casual town and there are plenty of places to eat outdoors or enjoy play spaces (especially in the main square). If you have a babysitter at the ready, carve out some time to enjoy the wine scene in Fredericksburg, or the emerging distillery scene (see my post on Fredericksburg for grown-ups).

Where to eat in Fredericksburg with kids:

Fredericksburg boasts plenty of casual dining options, most of which have live music at night, which is a plus when you’re trying to entertain squirmy kids. We most enjoyed the following:

tubby's

Clear River Pecan: this is a go-to place for ice cream or a coffee drink as a pick-me-up in the afternoons

Burger Burger: Great for a good burger, obviously, with a nice patio overlooking Main Street

Tubby’s Ice House: this local joint is just across from the Pacific museum, making it a perfect lunch spot. Their street foods include tacos and burgers and kids can get homemade popsicles while grown-ups enjoy frosé (frozen rosé). Yes, it’s as good as it sounds.

La Bergerie: make yourselves a picnic with the charcuterie on offer at this artisanal market (Mom and Dad, grab a bottle of wine to go with it). All the meats here are Texan and cured on site.

Fredericksburg Pie Company: a must-do, especially during the spring peach season!

West End Pizza: This classic pizza joint has lovely outdoor seating and homemade, wood-fired pizzas. Best of all, their salads are very good, so you can eat fairly healthy if you want to.

West End Pizza

Where to stay:

Stay at Fredericksburg Inn and Suites right off Main Street. You can walk to everything, and the suites include a separate living space with doors, making it easy to put kids down for the night before Mom and Dad turn in. I loved the big pool area with grass and outdoor BBQ pits. There’s ample seating outside, perfect for winding down the day with a glass of wine (wine bottles are available for purchase right at the front desk). The included breakfast is decent (your average continental breakfast offerings of waffles, eggs and bacon, yogurt, toast and muffins and cereals).

Frederickburg Inn and Suites

Disclosure: I experienced Fredericksburg at the invitation of the tourism board, for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

San Diego with kids: U.S.S. Midway attraction

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been in San Diego with kids and not gone to the U.S.S. Midway attraction. This incredible museum is comprised of the actual aircraft carrier that now sits in the San Diego harbor. Kids who love military vessels and planes will be in heaven, and even if your level of interest for these items is usually closer to lukewarm, you’ll still be blown away. We spent an hour here, thinking that would be enough, but wished we had at least 2.5 hours.

USS Midway

The U.S.S. Midway was in operation from 1945-1992. As families tour three main decks, a self-guided audio tour and interesting signage depicts what working aboard the ship (and general life aboard the ship) was like in all of these eras. A helpful staff member recommended we start at the top of the ship on the flight deck and work our way down, and he was right: seeing the planes (and the views of the harbor) first was a great idea. Starting here gave us a good introduction to what an aircraft carrier does. Throughout the flight deck, docents in yellow hats offer various talks on flying planes and landing them on the carrier and duties aboard. Most are retired military personnel, and they’re well worth stopping to listen to. Their passion for the subject was evident, and we really enjoyed hearing their accounts of time spent on the Midway.

USS Midway plane

From the top deck, we headed back to the hangar deck, where we sat in cockpits (and tried not to feel claustrophobic!). Then we visited the City at Sea area, which actually includes the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th decks. I found this to be the most interesting part of the ship: we toured berths, mess halls, officer’s quarters, the war room, a hospital wing, and even a dentist office and barbershop. Walking through the labyrinth of hallways and staircases, you really get a feel for life aboard a carrier.

Midway docent

The tour is self-guided, with the exception of an optional 30 minute tour of the bridge/flight tower at the top of the ship, which is led by a docent. These tours depart regularly from the flight deck, and are worth waiting for if you’re traveling with school-aged kids. The audio tour of the rest of the ship is included in your admission, and definitely worth doing. It’s well-planned, in that the exhibits are numbered, and visitors can simply input the numbers they want to listen to into their audio set, and skip the ones they aren’t interested in. There’s both a kid version and an adult version, and every headset can play both, so older kids can opt for either. Honestly, I found the kid version to be more interesting!

USS Midway interior

Admission:

Adult tickets are $19, youth/student is $15, and kids (6-12) are $10. Five and under is free. Families can get $2 off per person by ordering online, and current military personnel get in free. The better deal: the Midway attraction is included in a Go Select pass…these city passes definitely save money.

Hours of operation:

10 am to 5 pm daily (except Thanksgiving and Christmas). Last admission is 4 pm.

USS Midway

Dining:

There’s a cafe on-site on the hangar deck, overlooking the harbor, which scores points on the fun factor. Otherwise, plan to visit between meals. Vending machine drink machines are located on both the hangar deck and flight deck, should you need waters.

Directions:

The Midway is easy to find right on the harbor by the Manchester Grand Hyatt at 910 N. Harbor Drive. Parking is on-site, or families can walk from most downtown areas. Pedicabs and regular taxi cabs are readily available outside the museum.

As I disclose whenever applicable, I experienced the U.S.S. Midway as a guest of the attraction, for the purpose of review.

How to experience boutique wine in the Northwest

With over 18 viticulture regions in Oregon alone, the Pacific Northwest has gained a reputation for growing wine grapes and producing great wine. To date, however, the vast majority of Oregon and Washington wine production is small-batch, grown on boutique estates. For wine aficionados used to frequenting large, well-known wineries in California, Tuscany or France, the difference in experience is significant. Those seeking out boutique wineries in the Northwest will discover a world of hands-on winemaking, with winemakers attached to their grapes and the land they’re produced on, will discover wines no one else knows about, and will have unaccustomed access to winery owners.

Where to go for Northwest wine:

With over 700 wineries in Oregon and over 800 in Washington, choices are plentiful, but a wine weekend is best focused on one of four regions. In Oregon, the best-known option is to head to the Willamette Valley, where Pinot Noir reigns king. The wineries here are among the oldest in the state, with heritage winemaking over several generations. Take a tour with Grape Escape to make the most of your visit, and stop for dining in Newberg or McMinnville and consider an overnight stay at the Allison Inn and Spa or a more relaxed yurt stay (yes, yurt!) at Bradley Vineyards.

A few hours down I-5, Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley has emerged on the wine scene in the past ten years, producing wines that do well in hotter, drier climates. Take a day to enjoy the Applegate Wine Trail or Table Rock Wine Trail, and consider a stay in Ashland or Jacksonville to round out your weekend. South Stage Cellars in historic Jacksonville offers an excellent selection of local wine, as does Old 99 Road Wine Shop in Medford. For sweeping views of the Rogue Valley, wine taste and dine at Dancin’ Vineyards or Kriselle Cellars.

In Washington State, Walla Walla plays host to some of the top wineries, with the Walla Walla Wine Alliance bringing them all together. Stroll the quaint downtown sector of this small city, poking into various tasting rooms and wine bars. Take a wine tour or pair your trip with a visit to Washington’s other major wine region, along the Columbia River Gorge. This wine region is ideally situated to pair with a city visit to Portland or a weekend away in Hood River.

Types of wine to look for at boutique Northwest wineries this coming year: counter-culture chardonnay, MRV, and Grenache Blanc (as opposed to blends).

How to find boutique wines during a city vacation:

Not heading to wine country, but want to discover boutique wine in Portland or Seattle? Start with urban wineries, which typically buy grapes from around the region, or consider joining a localized wine club. Cellar 503 is based in Portland and ships Oregon wine to its members monthly. Cellar 503’s tasting room in the city offers a place for members to taste, congregate to share wine news, and educate.

In Washington state, it’s possible meander along an urban wine trail right in Seattle, or taste the best the state has to offer at Bottlehouse or The Tasting Room.

Wine festivals and competitions not to miss:

Serious about wine tasting and want the biggest bang for your buck? Head to a Northwest-focused wine competition. Topping the list: The Oregon Wine Experience, held each August in Jacksonville Oregon. 65 Oregon wineries will congregate in one place during one week, with winemaker’s dinners, award competitions, tastings and wine university classes. The Northwest Food and Wine Festival, held in Portland, is another sure bet, as is Taste NW’s Seattle Wine Awards.

However you experience the Pacific Northwest boutique wines, you can expect to be greeted in tasting rooms by owners (and probably their dogs), shouldn’t be surprised if you’re invited to tour a barrel room or two, and will be delighted by low tasting fees and affordable bottle prices. Cheers!

Grown-Up Getaway: How to spend a weekend in Reno, Nevada

I know…you thought I was going to say Las Vegas, right? But I prefer Reno, Nevada to Vegas any day…this medium-sized city is nestled at the base of the Sierra Nevada mountain range and offers plenty to do in the outdoors in addition to gaming and entertainment. Here’s what to do and where to go…with some unexpected surprises along the way!

Grown Up Getaway: Reno Nevada

Where to stay:

You have your pick of casino hotels in Reno, but for the greatest variety of dining options, entertainment and nightlife, pick either the Eldorado, Circus Circus, or Silver Legacy. They’re all connected, and right in a row on Virginia Street, within walking distance of the off-site venues I suggest visiting. In fact, the trio is now called THE ROW, Reno’s most luxurious row of accommodations, dining and spas.

What to do:

To me, the interiors of almost all casino hotels look the same: like the interiors of all malls or cruise ships. Without the benefit of daylight, I get really stir crazy. The good news is, after checking in and getting settled, you can easily step outside and walk along The Riverwalk District for views of the Truckee River. Keep going a few blocks from the hotel complex down Virginia Street to The Midtown District for a more eclectic, art experience with boutique shops, eateries and breweries. 

You can easily while away a half day here, checking out the vintage clothing shops, record stores. bubble tea shops and breweries. This part of Reno used to be avoided by most residents but is enjoying a new identity. It’s still gritty, and to be honest, I didn’t think I’d enjoy it when I first walk along the streets (there are still quite a few of the low budget motels and adult bookstores I remember from the past). But after perusing the new shops, I fell in love. There’s an excellent clothing exchange and antique shop called Junkee’s, and one for children’s clothing called Sippees. Mostly, you’re walking along Virginia Street proper, but in a few places, little nooks and crannies lead off to clusters of brew pubs and wine bars. There’s even an ice cream sandwich shop utilizing all local ingredients (called Simple Ice Cream Sandwiches on South Virginia Street).

Best of all, Midtown sports a beautiful collection of murals. Check out a map here, but if you just walk through the district, you’ll see most of them. Once you reach the Truckee (back toward the Eldorado), you can check out the ‘Space Whale’ art installation that was brought here from the Burning Man Playa. If you want to see more art, the Wilbur D. May Museum is adjacent.

In the evenings, Reno offers an abundance of shows and performances; just check the listings for your particular dates. And of course, there’s casino gaming as well. Alternatively, you could also check out this online poker game where you can get a $20 promo at Global and play wherever and whenever you want to.

Spend your second day exploring the outdoors. There are over 30 golf courses within the Reno area, as well as a whitewater kayaking park directly in downtown on the Truckee. Within 20 minutes of downtown Reno, Mt. Rose offers skiing, snowshoeing, sledding and snowmobiling in the winter and mountain biking and hiking in the summer. Just drive another 15 minutes or so on the Mt. Rose Highway to reach the northern Nevada side of Lake Tahoe at Incline Village. Spend time at Ski Beach in the summer, renting paddle boards or kayaks or just enjoying the sunshine.

Where to eat:

In Midtown, check out Brasserie Saint James on S. Center Street or Sup on South Virginia Street. If you’d rather stay in the hotel after freshening up, head to Roxy or La Strada in the Eldorado for the best ambiance. Canter’s Deli in the Silver Legacy is a nice option if you want something casual before catching a show at The Laughing Factory next door.

Have you enjoyed a weekend away in Reno? What are your recommendations?

Where to ski in Utah: Solitude Mountain Resort

Solitude Mountain Resort is one of those ski resorts that grows on you. The first time I skied Solitude was as part of a demo day experience, and I only traversed part of the mountain. Still, I enjoyed it. The next time I visited, my teenage son and I zipped all over the mountain during an epic powder day…hard to dislike that! The third time I skied this Big Cottonwood Canyon resort, the snow was so-so, but hidden stashes remained, and the true peace and tranquility to be found here won me over.

solitude-mountain-resort

What to expect at Solitude Mountain Resort:

Let’s start with what not to expect: don’t expect crowds, as Solitude really does live up to its name. You also don’t need to expect the usual high lift ticket prices. Even if you opt to buy tickets at the window or online, instead of getting a M.A.X. Pass, Solitude lift tickets are on the reasonable side, comparatively speaking. And I have visited during a long holiday weekend.

Instead, at Solitude, you can expect a local vibe, despite the presence of a base village with lodging for out-of-town guests. There’s an emphasis on off-piste (off the run) skiing and even backcountry skiing (out of bounds), which means the mountain ‘skis bigger than it is’. What do I mean by this? At 1200 acres, Solitude is not considered a very large resort, but if you include all the glade skiing, powder bowls, and off-piste options, which exist depending on snow conditions, it’s very large indeed.

solitude-ski-terrain

The lifts at Solitude are spaced out enough that some traversing will be necessary at times, but the newest chair, Summit, is not only fast but offers incredible views as you ascend. The village is compact, with condo-style lodging, an inn, a few restaurants, gear rentals, and a snow sports shop, and extremely cozy.

How to plan your trip to Solitude:

I love skiing Utah resorts because so many of them are within an easy commute of Salt Lake City and the international airport. Solitude was within 45 minutes of downtown during my visits. From the base of Big Cottonwood Canyon, it’s only 12 miles. On one trip, because my son and I were skiing multiple resorts during my second time at Solitude, we stayed at the entrance to the canyon, at Residence Inn by Marriott. It was comfortable, convenient, had an excellent complimentary breakfast, and was only about 25 minutes from the Solitude parking lot. I highly recommend this hotel if you want to stay central to both Big and Little Cottonwood canyons.

solitude-village

If your ski trip will be solely at Solitude and/or Solitude and its neighbor, Brighton, definitely stay in the Solitude Village. I stayed two nights at the Inn at Solitude on my third visit and loved the proximity to the mountain. My fourth-floor balcony literally overlooked the Apex Chair, and the heated, outdoor hot tub and pool soothed sore muscles each evening. The Inn at Solitude is just steps from The Hungry Squirrel, which became my go-to apres-ski watering hole, and there are spa services on-site, too. St. Bernard’s restaurant, directly inside the inn, offers an Alpine-style buffet dinner with charcuterie, hot soups, roasts and cobblers every night, and serves an equally satisfying buffet breakfast each morning. The atmosphere is warm and relaxing; we enjoyed drinks in the Library Bar seating area outside the dining room before our leisurely meal. St. Bernard’s was a definite highlight of our time at Solitude. You also get access to Club Solitude by staying at the Inn at Solitude, which has additional pools, a lounge area with video games and a movie screening room, exercise spaces and saunas.

As noted, the village is small, but has what you need (eliminating any need to commute down the canyon for food or supplies). You can find a very small convenience store right at the entrance to Solitude by the real estate office; this is not a grocery store by any means, but does have wine, beer, convenience items and toiletry items. If you are staying in the village and want a second option in addition to St. Bernard’s, head to Honeycomb Grille for excellent American bistro cuisine or to the small pizzeria. Every option is within walking distance of everything else.

You’ll be ski-in, ski-out at Solitude, and only a five-minute drive from Brighton. There are buses that connect the two as well (and you can ski between them…more on that in a minute).

Getting your bearings at Solitude:

There are two base areas at Solitude, at Solitude Village and Moonbeam base area. It’s nice that both have parking lots, to spread out day guests, and both have base lodges with ticket sales and food services. Moonbeam is home to the snowsports center, which is where to go if you’re taking a lesson or dropping off kids for lessons. There are some food venues there, as well as bathrooms.

solitude

The village has additional food services, a rental shop and tuning shop, and all the lodging options (which include condos in addition to the inn). A good lunch option can be found at Last Chance Lodge, right on the snow at the edge of the village, where you can find excellent made-to-order tacos and a salad bar. Hang tight though, because the absolute best lunch spot is at mid-mountain (read on to find out where).

Skiing Solitude:

If you enjoy skiing off-piste, Solitude is heaven. The Summit chair drops you off at the entry to Honeycomb Canyon, named, it turns out, not after Utah’s honey production, but after the many mines that dotted the canyon a century ago. Multiple gated chutes connect with the bowl, giving skiers and snowboarders a very long and powdery run to the base near Eagle chair. There’s also a front face at Summit, plenty of tree skiing, and groomer runs for intermediate level.

Tip: if you’re a beginner, pay attention to notices at the base of each chair. Solitude is very good about placing signage where beginner terrain will be lacking, so you can know before going up.

Additional glade skiing is excellent off the older (and slower moving) Sunrise chair, and lots of nice blue groomers can be found off Moonbeam and Eagle. If you’re willing to hike, even more bowl skiing opens up, and backcountry skiers will be happy too: just look for the signage indicating when you need your own backcountry shovel, avalanche beacon, and probe to continue. (This is a good indication that you may need to hike out of the run, too.)

solitude-mountain-resort

Overall, look at signage no matter your ski ability, and be ready to ask for advice from locals…there will be plenty of skiers and snowboarders around who are familiar with the mountain. If you have a M.A.X. pass or combined ticket for Solitude and Brighton, know that you can ski between the resorts via the Solbright run. And, er, if you accidentally ski that run and end up at the wrong base area without a combined ticket, the nice lifties will let you return via the lift…once.

If you’re an intermediate to advanced skier and want to open up more terrain for yourself, book one of Solitude’s Hidden Tracks mornings. Operating as snow and weather permits, Hidden Tracks is an opportunity to ski with a local instructor who can show you all those hidden stashes and glades you might have missed. And there are a lot! During my Hidden Tracks experience, my guide Josh described skiing off-piste at Solitude as ‘a game of gates’. What he meant: there are gated entrances to off-piste terrain all over the place! These gated areas are maintained by ski patrol for safety and opened and closed at their discretion. Once you know where they all are, as well as which ones will require boot packing (or hiking) to get to the great snow, you’ll be an informed skier who can continue to enjoy these gates the rest of your trip. Have adventurous teens? This session is ideal for them to know their options!

At a mountain like Solitude, which has so much backcountry and side country terrain, Hidden Tracks is well worth your time and money. And while it’s not a lesson, if you’d like instruction or pointers during the morning, your guide will be happy to accommodate you.

roundhouse-lodge

Tip: definitely plan to eat your lunch at the Roundhouse mid-mountain between the Moonbeam and Eagle lifts. This circular lodge has a lot of history, and serves just two types of food: Wasatch mountain food (Utah-inspired soups, stews, and burgers), and Himalayan mountain food (wonderful curries and rice dishes). The food is excellent, and we found there was plenty of room…no hunting for a table at lunch.

Solitude lift tickets:

As with all ski vacations, ease the burden on your wallet by planning your lift ticket purchase ahead of time at Solitude. If you only plan to spend a few days, buy multi-day tickets online ahead of time to save money off the approximate $85 adult day pass price. There’s also a Solbright day pass, which gives you access to all of Brighton, too. Personally, I think you’ll be busy enough at just one or the other, but the flexibility is nice.

Pin for later!

Wondering where to ski in Utah? Solitude shines for teens. Here's why!

Disclosure: We skied Solitude as guests of the resort, for the purpose of reviewing the M.A.X. Pass option. All opinions are my own.

 

Grown-Up Getaway: Salt Lake City weekend

A Grown-Up Getaway in Salt Lake City? Absolutely! If you haven’t visited Utah’s capital city in a while, you’re in for a surprise. The culinary scene here has exploded, with top chefs from all over the US planting their flags in the city. Craft cocktails are alive and well in watering holes all over Salt Lake City (yes, really) and visitors have a variety of downtown lodging to choose from.

Whether you come to Salt Lake City as a stopover (SLC is a hub airport, after all), or you’re planning to ski in the canyons or in Park City after a taste of urban life, this city in the heart of the Wasatch makes for the perfect Grown Up Getaway for a Salt Lake City weekend.

Where to stay: historic Peery Hotel

Book your reservation at the Peery Hotel, located directly downtown next to the best restaurants, the Salt Palace convention center and Temple Square. The Peery is a historic hotel that’s recently enjoyed a refreshing; walking into the well-appointed lobby felt like a breath of fresh air. The understated yellow tones merged perfectly with the crackling fireplace and cozy seating in the lobby; the adjacent bar and Carnegie’s Public House beckoned.

peery hotel

My room at the Peery overlooked the courtyard, which at first, I saw as a detriment. In fact, it made for a quiet night’s stay, with views that still overlooked the city. The bathroom was over-sized to the point of being opulent, with a jetted tub for two and lovely black-and-white tiled floor and pedestal sinks.

All the rooms at the Peery feature king beds, but ours included a pull-out couch, so could fit a family of four if needed. The bed was uber-comfy and I loved the plush robes.

Cocktails at the Carnegie’s Public House:

Right downstairs off the lobby, Carnegie’s offers pub-fare, but focus on the the cozy bar. I ordered a classic Manhattan here with High West whiskey (a must in Utah, in my opinion). The bar ambiance is warm and welcoming; order an appetizer at the bar if you’d like.

Dinner at Current Fish and Oyster:

You won’t be disappointed in an intimate dinner at one of Salt Lake City’s most up-and-coming restaurants. Current Fish and Oyster headed up by chef Alan Brines, who has worked previously in Park City and across the Pacific Northwest. Inhabiting a historic building, Current Fish and Oyster has a distinctly urban ‘packing house’ flair, with high ceilings, lots of brick and exposed beams and a gorgeous outdoor patio with fire pits in the summer. During our winter visit, the interior was lively and abuzz with a Sundance Film Festival crowd. I highly recommend the oysters (an ever-changing selection flown directly to SLC daily) and the seafood stew. The wine list is deep, and the cocktail menu inventive.

current fish and oyster

As alternate dining option, should you have multiple days, we recommend From Scratch (self-explanatory) and Stanza (contemporary Italian), both in the immediate vicinity.

For a change of scene, especially if you won’t be venturing outside of SLC for the ski or mountain scene, consider booking a reservation at Log Haven. Located on Millcreek Canyon Road a world removed from downtown, Log Haven used to be that one tired restaurant every local family booked for anniversaries, celebrations and birthdays. Today, it shines, renowned for its seasonal cuisine and mountain vibe.

What to do:

Visit Temple Square, take in a Jazz game, or enjoy the shopping downtown and in the Sugar House neighborhood.

What is your favorite activity in Salt Lake City? Please share in the comments!

Tahoe with kids: Granlibakken Ski and Sledding Hill

Looking to explore off the beaten tourist path in Tahoe with kids? Granlibakken is traditional Tahoe at its most authentic: this old-school resort boosts lodge rooms, condos, sledding, a day spa, and ski learning on poma bar and rope tow-accessed terrain. In the summer, there’s a large treetop rope course and easy access to hiking trails and the lake shore.

Keep this lesser known resort top-of-mind if you are planning a multi-generational vacation to Tahoe or a family reunion because they have multiple lodging options that work for larger families or even wedding parties. All lodging guests enjoy a complimentary buffet breakfast each day, too.

Granlibakken

We headed to Granlibakken for a morning of sledding. With four kids in our party, we weren’t keen to pay the hefty tubing prices at larger ski resorts, and didn’t have the option of finding our own sledding hills on Tahoe’s many sno parks (due to snow conditions). Granlibakken proved to be a perfect choice, with a large hill (with multiple routes down) and an organized hike-t0-sled path, plus plastic sledding disks to use. We started in the quaint warming hut, where we bought tickets for $12 per child, and headed outside to the hill. You can also rent snowshoes here or cross-country skis, and access either their own maintained nordic trail or more trails just over the hill.

Tip: Adults can watch for free of course, but should you want to go into the sledding area to help or just to take photos, you will need your own tickets. 

Tahoe with kids

It’s fine to bring your own sleds (just make sure they’re not metal), and prepare to spend about an hour or two here. If the snow conditions are good, kids may want to stay to play in the snow longer. In the lodge, you’ll find a counter-service dining option, where the hot chocolate flows and coffee is quite good. There’s a learning hill for kids on skis, with a rope tow, and one lift (poma bar accessed) for intermediate skiers and riders. Check for current lift ticket prices, as we only used the sledding area on our visit.

Granlibakken

Date last visited:

December 2014

Distance from the interstate:

Located just outside Tahoe City, about 20 minutes from I-80 and just steps from CA-89.

Directions:

Turn left at the stop light in Tahoe City onto CA-89 S. Drive one-half mile to Granlibakken Road and turn right.

A stay at Seattle’s Hyatt at Olive 8

I love finding new kid-friendly gems in destination cities! I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again: families don’t have to settle for cheap hotels in the suburbs while city touring. Family-friendly, downtown hotels do exist. Our latest find: the Hyatt at Olive 8. Located in the heart of Seattle’s downtown, the Olive 8 is just steps from the impressive convention center. One would assume this would mean the hotel is overrun with business travelers, but this is not so! We visited mid-week, and were still in the company of numerous family groups. My kids think this is due to their large indoor pool and whirlpool hot tub and their restaurant, Urbane’s, ‘For Kids, By Kids’ farm-fresh menu.

Hyatt at Olive 8

As the sliding glass doors open to usher you into the Olive 8’s lobby, the first thing you notice is the minimalist, glass and steel decor. I loved the ultra-modern layout of Olive 8: the lobby looks out on downtown from expansive glass panes, and the common areas are all open, with wide hallways and high ceilings. This less-is-more mentality extends to energy consumption: that the Olive 8 is the first LEEDS certified Seattle hotel.

Hyatt at Olive 8

In-room amenities:

In our room, our key cards turned on and off lights (to ensure they automatically turn off upon exiting), linens and towels are replaced on request, and the heating and air units are eco-friendly. Even the toilets offer two flushing options to reduce water usage, which the kids found delightful (and hilarious). We stayed in adjoining rooms as a family of five (and had plenty of room) and all rooms come equipped with mini-fridges (a staple!) and iPod docking stations (a very nice perk). The in-room coffee service was not half-bad, and I liked that Tazo teas were offered as well. My kids loved the thick Hyatt bathrobes, and I liked how many outlets I had to charge electronics. Wifi is available in-room for a fee.

Pool and Fitness Center:

We visited the Olive 8 on a cold December night. The kids jumped right in the pool, which is open later than most (until 10:30, open at 5:30 am), and my husband and I appreciated that the Hyatt StayFit gym (a staple of all Hyatts) is located adjacent. We could tag team a workout while the kids swam. The Olive 8 does have a spa, though we sadly didn’t have time to check it out.

Urbane at Hyatt at Olive 8

Dining:

The Olive 8 has both a marketplace where families can buy snacks and staples, and a full restaurant, Urbane. We ate breakfast at Urbane at the suggestion of both hotel staff and locals. Urbane adapts Hyatt’s For Kids, By Kids menu, developed by kids and a young chef. While Urbane is by no means an economical breakfast choice for families, it does promise locally sourced, healthy options. The dining room echoed the rest of Olive 8’s elegant design, and the service was friendly.

While staying at Olive 8, you’re within walking distance of the Space Needle and Pacific Science Center, and right on metro lines to Pike’s Place Market and the waterfront. You’ll pay for your comfort and prime location: rates start at $152 for a single king room. But why not end each of your busy touring days with a swim and a warm soak, healthy food, and comfortable, eco-friendly digs?

Date last visited: December 2012

Room rates:

At the time of our visit, standard, king bedrooms started at $153 on non-holiday nights. We opted for two adjoining rooms with queen beds, and were comfortable as a family of five.

Directions:

The Olive 8 is located at 1635 8th Street, Seattle. From I-5, take Pike Street. The hotel is easily accessed from I-90, too.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced Hyatt at Olive 8 as guests of the hotel. While we appreciate this opportunity to share great hotel finds with our readers, it came with no expectation of a positive review.

Best ski towns: Lake Placid and Whiteface Mountain

Ready to plan Lake Placid skiing with kids? Whiteface Mountain boasts the biggest vertical drop east of the Rockies, it hosted the 1980 Olympic Winter Games, and it has an impressive (or intimidating, depending on your skiing ability) 38% expert runs. But what you might not expect is that Whiteface is also a great place for families with young kids just starting out on the slopes.

whiteface-mountain

One of my favorite aspects of Whiteface’s Kids Kampus is how separate it is from the rest of the mountain. While it’s easy for parents to take a run over to check up on their little ones, it’s isolated enough that the lift and runs are occupied almost solely by kids enrolled in lessons. That means that the lift is less crowded, and that you don’t have to worry about someone speeding by your child as they’re just learning to traverse the hill. The runs themselves are all green circles, except for an intermediate glade run, but they’re long enough to challenge kids that have moved beyond a magic carpet. To give some perspective, our 5-year-old, who has been skiing for two and a half years, was happy on the same hill as our 3-year-old, who just started earlier this year.

whiteface-mountain-review

Kids Kampus is also great for its one-stop shopping. Parents can arrive at the Kids Kampus and buy lift tickets for everyone, reserve lessons and day care, and drop the kids off for their activities. They have a separate parking lot, lodge with cafeteria, and rental shop. To get back to the main mountain, you can either take the Bunny Hutch lift and ski over, or take the shuttle that runs all day between the Kids Kampus lodge and the main lodge.

And kids aren’t the only ones that can learn some new skills at Whiteface. Adult lessons are available from the main lodge and can accommodate all abilities. If someone in your group has never skied before, Whiteface also offers a Parallel from the Start program that includes a lesson, lift ticket, and rental. They also have an adaptive ski program that offers lessons and rental adaptive equipment for kids and adults with disabilities. Basically, whatever your age or ability, there’s something new to learn at Whiteface.

whiteface-mountain-review

As for the mountain, of course it’s great! Even on a busy day, the hill doesn’t seem crowded because there are so many parts of the mountain to explore. The Cloudsplitter Gondola is a great place to start, and from there you can move on to the Summit Quad and ski the same hill used for the downhill races in the 1980 Olympics. If you’re really lucky (which I wasn’t, unfortunately), you’ll catch Whiteface on a rare day when The Slides are open. These are a series of chutes accessed by the Summit Quad. Most of the year they’re closed due to insufficient snow or avalanche danger, and even when they’re open there are certain precautions that are required—ski buddies, a beacon, shovel and probe. But if the conditions are right, you could be in for the best runs in the east!

Website info:

Whiteface: http://www.whiteface.com/ (this website is also where you’ll find info on the other Olympic venues, including information on sliding or cross country skiing). Another great planning site is visitadirondacks.com.

Lift Ticket prices:

Prices are listed on the website, and range from $79 for a half day in the Bear’s Den Nursery, to $143 for a full day of Play-N-Ski (two sessions of lessons, with free play and lunch in the nursery). Adult lessons start at $46 for two hours, and the Parallel from the Start program (which includes lift ticket and rental) is $139/day.

Lodging:

Our pick is the Lake Placid Towne Plaza for lodging close to the slopes. Read my full review.

Directions:

From NYC: take the New York State Thruway (I-87) north to Exit 24 (Albany). Take I-87 north (Adirondack Northway) to Exit 30. Pick up Route 9 north and follow it for two miles to Route 73. Continue on Route 73 for 28 Miles to Lake Placid.

From Boston: Take the Massachusetts Turnpike (I-90) to Albany. Pick up I-787 north to Cohoes. Connect with Route 7 west to I-87 north. Follow I-87 north (Adirondack Northway) to Exit 30. Pick up Route 9 north and follow it for two miles to Route 73. Continue on Route 73 for 28 Miles to Lake Placid.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my family and I skied Whiteface as guests of the resort, for the purpose of reviewing their child and adult lesson packages. All opinions are our own.