Vail luxury ski hotel: Sonnenalp hotel review

I have been lucky enough to stay in many luxury ski hotel properties, from Whistler to Tahoe to points east. My stay at The Sonnenalp, a Leading Hotels of the World property in Vail, Colorado, met the expectations that properties like the Fairmont or the Ritz Carlton had set for me, but also exceeded those expectations in subtle ways.

Sonnenalp

What do I mean by this? The Sonnenalp Hotel, which is a true family-owned property, in the same family for four generations, has a very understated and timeless style of luxury and service. From the moment you drive into the porte-cochère and your ski gear is whisked effortlessly away by the ski concierge team to the simple yet thoughtful texts sent by the front desk staff, inquiring how your stay is going and whether there is anything they can do for you, at The Sonnenalp, it’s all about quietly and efficiently serving, while providing a timeless and lovely place to call home in the heart of Vail.

sonnenalp

While beautiful, the Sonnenalp exhibits a cozy Bavarian elegance, not a flashy or sleek luxury vibe. Inside, the long halls with meandering staircases with wooden handrails call to mind a European ski chalet; in fact, in some parts of the hotel, I truly would mistake my location for the Alps. All the guest spaces of the hotel, from the small front lobby to the expansive King’s Club lounge (arguably the heart of the hotel) exhibit an understated but sophisticated elegance. You’d never make the mistake that you were in a budget hotel, by any means, but you are also spared any sort of stuffy or snooty ambiance.

Sonnenalp rooms:

suite

Ever stayed at a five-star, very expensive property and looked around your hotel room and noted you were actually lacking a lot of useful items, like a fridge, table, or microwave? The Sonnenalp has 112 suites to its 15 rooms, with a focus on comfort. I stayed in one of their two-level mountain suites, which was laid out with a living room and wet bar space downstairs (with fireplace) and two bedrooms upstairs, with over 1300 square feet total space. Be sure to ask for a few room fans upon check-in, as we found the upstairs to get stuffy. I appreciated having a Nespresso machine, a minibar, a second fridge for storing our own things, a microwave, and two and a half bathrooms.

great room

We enjoyed turndown service, lovely robes for use in the room and at the spa area, and eco-friendly bath amenities. The only thing I found missing: access to a washer and dryer, or even just a dryer, in the suites. When skiing with a family, a dryer is huge. 

Sonnenalp European spa:

At The Sonnenalp, the European spa concept means that in addition to their luxurious spa, most of the spa’s 10,000 square feet is accessible for all guests, including children. What this looks like: when you enter the spa area, you are not stopped at a sign-in desk (though they have one). Instead, you’re invited into the large space that houses a 360 degree fireplace with sunken seating, a full bar (with oxygen bar), and the indoor pool and hot tub. Off of this room are the men’s and women’s locker rooms, sauna, steam rooms, and fitness center…open to everyone (though children under 16 are not allowed in the back locker rooms or fitness center of the spa). Out glass doors by the pool, the outdoor section of the pool and two additional outdoor hot tubs await.

spa

While kids need to be respectfully quiet in this greater spa area, they are welcome, and what results is a very cozy, warm space for families to gather apres-ski or anytime. For adults, complementary yoga classes are held here almost daily, as well as personal training services. While the fitness center is not large, it has the cardio and weight training equipment needed.

pools

While I love that most of the spa can be appreciated by everyone, I do recommend booking at least one spa treatment during your stay. My aromatherapy massage was one of the best I’ve ever had, made even more relaxing in the knowledge that the rest of my group could be having fun in the pools and hot tubs. A poolside/spa-side menu is available (though outdoor pool deck service is seasonal).

Sonnenalp dining:

swiss chalet

The Sonnenalp has multiple restaurants onsite, and of course, you’re in the heart of the Vail village, so many additional restaurants are within walking distance. As noted above, the cozy King’s Club, with bar, a ‘living room’ type space, and even a library, is the place to start your evening with a drink during their happy hour. It’s also the place to return later in the evening for live music. A must do is Swiss Chalet, Sonnenalp’s nod to Alpine cuisine, with fondue and raclette, and for the most casual dining option, head to Bully Ranch, the hotel’s Western-themed restaurant (where you’ll instantly feel like you’re in Wyoming, not Germany).

buffet

While Sonnenalp may be best known for Swiss Chalet’s fondue dinner, their breakfast buffet, held daily at Ludwig’s, is in danger of outshining it all. There’s more than any one person could possibly eat at this gourmet buffet of hot dishes, granolas, fresh fruits, berries, cheese spreads, bagels and lox, smoked salmon, artisan breads, and more. The buffet is $35 per person (or $23 for the continental version), but don’t gasp just yet: with most reservations, it can be included in the cost of the stay as an add-on (well worth it). If you don’t add the buffet on and don’t want to pay that price, there is also an a la carte menu, as well as room service. By no means is Sonnenalp dining inexpensive, but it is part of the overall experience of the hotel.

Sonnenalp activities:

The hotel has a kids’ club, which is complementary with activities planned for kids daily, with drop-in options. At the time of my visit, the club was open from 4 pm to 6 pm, which was great: parents can enjoy happy hour while the kids are busy. This service is for kids three and up who are potty trained, but even if you have a younger one, stop by for a complementary box of sanitized toys to take back to your room. For older kids, there’s a game room adjacent. Get always updated kids’ club information.

kids club

The planned activities for adults, beyond the spa and fitness offerings, such as the snowshoeing treks aforementioned, were offered six days a week during my visit. Of course, a main activity for parents is simply relaxing. I recommend sitting in the library with one of their famous mudslides.

sonnenalp

If visiting in winter, most families plan to ski. Here’s how the ski concierge services work at Sonnenalp:

Because the hotel is about three blocks from Gondola One (where you can upload for Vail skiing), Sonnenalp guests have access to nearby Gorsuch Ski Cafe. The ski concierge team will transport your gear there upon your arrival to the hotel. Guests walk the few blocks in comfortable winter boots, instead of ski boots, and grab their gear from the concierge there. The space has ample room for getting on gear and storing skis and boards. You can also apply sunscreen here and there’s seating for 40-50.

For summer season guests, Sonnenalp has their own private golf course, with a much large fitness center and pool complex, as well as on-site dining, Harvest. The fitness center and Harvest are actually open year-round, and shuttles can be arranged from the hotel. There is a daily fee for golf, but I was assured hotel guests have use of the fitness area complementarily.

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Sonnenalp.

Disclosure: I stayed at Sonnenalp as a guest of the hotel, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.

The Wizarding World at Universal Studios Hollywood: What to know before you go

If you have kids who live and breathe all things Harry Potter, and you can’t take them on a trip to the motherland, the Wizarding World of Harry Potter at Universal Studios is the next best thing. With the Wizarding World is now open on both coasts, we opted to check out Hogwarts and Hogsmeade in Hollywood. Read on for our best planning tips:

wizarding-world

Don’t forget to budget time for one of the best things to do in Hollywood, the Museum of Illusions, plus additional fun in the greater Los Angeles area!

Rides at Wizarding World of Harry Potter: 

There are two rides at the Wizarding World of Harry Potter, both of which are pretty tame by theme park standards. However, here’s what you should know about each:

  • The Flight of the Hippogriff is Universal Studios Hollywood’s first outdoor roller coaster. It is family friendly and appropriate for younger muggles over 36 inches tall.
  • Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey at Universal Studios Hollywood takes place inside Hogwart’s Castle. This 3-D adventure is perfect for diehard Harry Potter fans who can brave the Quidditch pitch, Whomping Willows, dragons and dementors. We loved it, but there’s a lot of twisting and turning, and some of us felt a bit queasy afterward. If you get motion sickness, know this in advance!

Shopping inside Wizarding World:

Normally, souvenir shopping wouldn’t get more than a cursory mention in one of my posts…after all, no one comes for the shopping. Not so at Wizarding World! Shopping for Harry Potter souvenirs is truly part of the fun at Wizarding World, and you’ll want to take time to do some browsing. Be sure to go into the various shops, such as Honeydukes candy shop for some chocolate frogs, Bertie Bott’s Every Flavor Beans, chocolate cauldrons and more. Inside the castle and as you exit the Forbidden Journey are where you will find Filch’s Emporium of Confiscated Goods. I could have spent hours in there! You can purchase clothing, house crest banners, toys, games and replicas of the movie props.

If your kid (or you!) want to buy a wand, do it early. Why? You can use interactive wands (the ones with the specially marked sticker on the box) throughout the Wizarding World. It’s really fun to perform spells at any location with an emblem on the ground. There’s always a Universal employee stationed nearby to give you tips.

To get a wand, you can either go through a wand ceremony (where you wait in line to watch the ceremony where one person is picked to be the recipient, then buy your own if you weren’t picked), or you can go directly to the wand shop. If you want to watch the ceremony, we suggest making this your first stop.

The wand shop is usually crazy crowded, but it’s also jaw-dropping to see the wand boxes literally stacked floor to ceiling. Wands will set you back $50 each (yes, really!) but it’s one of those things you should probably just budget for, because once in the Wizarding World, they’re hard to resist!

This video was created with ProEditors…learn more about creating your own!

Food & drink of wizards: 

Like shopping, eating is a big deal at Wizarding World. There are all kinds of edible treats from the candy in Honeydukes to the restaurant and pub, as well as Butterbeer. In the Three Broomsticks restaurant, you’ll find the Hog’s Head (bar), but also English fare for the whole family. You can snuggle up with a drink in a cozy booth or spot in front of the fireplace. We found it expensive but fun to eat a meal in the Three Broomsticks.

Wizarding entertainment:

On the Hogsmeade stage you will find some entertainment throughout your visit. Some of the Hogwarts choir students (one from each house) perform with their large croaking frogs. You can also cheer on the Beauxbatons and Durmstrang students as they get the crowd excited for the Triwizard Tournament. After each performance, you can take photos with the singers and dancers.

Dealing with crowds:

Universal’s Front of Line pass will be worth your while if you’re visiting during peak season (summer) or just about any time in the first months of the park’s opening, even though there are only two rides in the park. The pass is good for both rides, and lines are definitely long. It also includes front access to shows, saving you time (as you won’t have to hold seats). These passes start at $199. There is a single rider line available for The Forbidden Journey. There’s a VIP pass as well, which gets you all the perks of the Front of Line pass, plus a guided tour, breakfast, and lunch, but at over $300 a ticket, we don’t see the value.

Buying tickets:

As with most theme parks, Universal Studios gives you an array of options for ticket purchase (in addition to the aforementioned Front of the Line pass). Always buy tickets online ahead of time if buying directly through Universal to save some cash, but if you plan to do anything else in the greater Los Angeles area, do as we did and use a Go Los Angeles card attraction pass. A 3-day card gives you a day at Universal Studios, which you can upgrade to a Front of the Line pass should you desire. We loved that we didn’t have to wait in the ticket line at all: cards are fully integrated with the Universal Studios Hollywood ticket turnstiles.

Where to stay: If budget allows, consider staying in LA style with luxury villa rentals Los Angeles. Or, staying at a Preferred Hotel gets you early admission privileges, and may even get you shuttle service to the park (in some cases). What we like: there’s a large selection to choose from, making it possible for families on all budgets to book a Preferred Hotel. Be sure to use hotel loyalty programs when you book to ensure you come away with points as well as a great vacation!

Read also: our tips for Universal Studios Hollywood!

Pin for later!

wizarding-world

Photo credit: Prayitno

Things to do on Channel Islands with kids

Channel Islands National Park is located right off the coast of Ventura, CA, but feels a million miles away from the rest of Southern California. The park has a different vibe than most: the main visitor’s center is located not in the park, but in the Ventura Harbor, where visitors depart for the islands, and the islands themselves remain remote, isolated, and almost completely undeveloped.

channel islands

Don’t let the Channel Islands, and the logistics of exploring them, deter you: this national park is perfect for kids. Families simply need to know the best things to do on Channel Islands, how to get to Channel Islands National Park, and where to stay prior.

Channel Islands

Which island?

All the Channel Islands are accessible, but the most easily accessed (and with the most to do for families) is Santa Cruz Island, the largest of the five. Protected coves allow for great snorkeling here, and the camping is easiest (on other islands, backpacking may be necessary). Santa Cruz Island is also the most affordable to travel to, making it ideal for larger family groups.

Camping or day trip?

The next thing families need to decide is whether to make their Channel Islands adventure a day trip or an overnight. Camping at Channel Islands is reserved by ReserveAmerica, and the most popular camping experience for families is located at Scorpion’s Cove on Santa Cruz. This campground is walk-in (meaning backpacking is not necessary) and the lower campground is only .2 mile from the beach. Running water and pit toilets are available, and each site has a picnic table and food storage box.

channel islands camping

For families deciding not to camp, a day trip to Santa Cruz Island can be more than enough to experience the National Park. Santa Cruz (the most easily accessible island) is undeveloped; in addition to the campground, there are only a few ranger cabins (rangers are on-site), evidence of the island’s ranching history, and hiking trails. A dock exists at Scorpion’s Cove, where passengers disembark. For a day trip, we recommend taking an early boat (9 am) out to Scorpion’s Cove, and returning at 4 pm or 5 pm. This gives visitors enough time to experience the island’s snorkeling, kayaking, and hiking.

snorkeling on Channel Islands

How to get there:

Island Packers is the official transportation to the islands. They’re located in the Ventura Harbor adjacent to the Channel Islands visitor center (follow the brown National Park signs to the end of the drive along the pier) and reservations should be made in advance. The boat ride over takes approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes, and is certainly part of the fun. We spotted dolphins during our passage, and when the water is choppy, as it was on our visit, the ride is downright exhilarating. Kids can stand at the deck and feel the spray of the ocean, or interior seats are also available. The Island Packers crew and staff are all friendly, laid-back, and fun. The cost of an Island Packers passage varies by island and whether your passage is a day trip or camping trip. At the time of my visit, day trip passage was $56 round trip for adults and $39 round trip for children (up to age 12). Overnight passage was $75 for adults and $54 for children.

island packers

Snorkeling, kayaking, and hiking on the islands:

Snorkeling at Scorpion’s Cove, we swam with harbor seals, and spotted multiple fish species, sea urchins, sea stars, and kelp forests. Snorkeling gear can be rented by the day at Ventura Sports, located in the Ventura Harbor, but be advised: they don’t have adequate sizes for kids under age 10. While their staff was friendly, they rented us a wetsuit that was far too large for our seven-year-old, with no warning that it wouldn’t work for him. (Wet suits are usually necessary in all seasons on Channel Islands.) In addition to snorkeling, kayaks can be rented in the harbor and transported for the day or the duration of your camping trip by Island Packers, or guided kayak tours are available on the island (reserve ahead of time). When not on or in the water, numerous hiking trails (of about 2 miles in length at most) are available on Santa Cruz Island, and offer beautiful vistas of the island and sea.

Holiday inn express Ventura harbor

Where to stay in Ventura:

If you’re coming any distance to visit the islands, you’ll need to stay overnight in Ventura the evening prior. We recommend the Holiday Inn Express Ventura Harbor, which overlooks the Ventura Harbor and is less than a quarter mile from Island Packers. I call this Holiday Inn Express an ‘express plus’, because it’s directly tied to the Four Points Sheraton next door, and guests have access to their very nice outdoor heated pool and hot tub (hot tub for adults only). A pedestrian bridge connects the two hotels, and the Holiday Inn Express includes one of the best complimentary breakfasts we’ve ever experienced. Bottom line: the Holiday Inn Express Ventura is a great value for families, and you’ll be close enough to enjoy the Ventura Harbor prior to your Channel Islands trip.

One day in Badlands National Park itinerary with kids

We were blown away by the beauty and peacefulness of Badlands National Park! During our one day visit, we found ourselves comparing this dry, rugged, and dramatic park to other favorites: it has much of the same feel as Death Valley National Park and Joshua Tree National Park. However, Badlands adds another element: high prairie wildlife and terrain that will impress in a subtile, almost delicate manner. Here’s what to do with one day in Badlands National Park:

badlands-national-park

Allow me to explain: while the first thing visitors are likely to notice about the park is its dramatic rock formations and chasms (think of Grand Canyon in miniature, or as one fellow traveler put it, of being a giant hiking in the Grand Canyon), it’s quickly evident that beyond, and in some cases, above, these rock formations, lie plateaus, gulches, and lowlands blooming with sunflowers and wildflowers, harboring prairie dogs and rabbits, and opening up onto prairie grasses. The juxtaposition of dry, cracking rock and flowering plants is stunning.

badlands-sunflowers

The park is well-known for fossil finds dating to prehistoric eras, though we learned that dinosaur fossils are not found here. The region was underwater during that time period. Instead, early mammal fossils are found quite regularly, and dig sites can still be active.

How to spend a day at Badlands National Park:

Ready for your Badlands National Park itinerary with kids? Though the park area is quite large, most of the sites and hiking options are in a concentrated area, making this park do-able in a day, if needed. As we always suggest, start at the Badlands visitor center to get your bearings. Here, kids can see a well-made 20-minute video, then tour several rooms of exhibits on the park’s geological history, wildlife, and native history (this is Lakota territory). Stop at the desk and ask for a form on which to document any fossil finds. They can still be spotted in the rock throughout the park, and park scientists depend on visitor documentation to help their research. Cool, right?

badlands-fossils

After touring the visitor center, take the Badlands Loop Road. Backtrack to the Window Trail and Door Trail parking lot.

Tip: to do this itinerary as described, enter the park via I-90 Exit 131 instead of via Exit 110 near Wall. We suggest this direction because it places families at the visitor center early on.

The Door Trail offers an amazing vista of the canyons of the park, with half a mile of ‘trail’, which is actually rock hopping and free-form hiking from marked post to post (the rock bottom here doesn’t allow for a proper trail). The way is easy enough, but kids can make it more fun by climbing a few short rock formations along the path. The nearby Window Trail consists just of a boardwalk ending in a vista to see a very deep chasm in the canyon. Definitely do both. Note: we hit this trail at sunrise, which rewarded us with beautiful light against the stone.

sunrise-at-badlands

Accessed from the same parking lot, the short Notch Trail is great for kids who want more climbing, as this 1.5 mile loop descends through the canyon then up a wooden ladder to follow a ledge to a great view of the White River valley. Only proceed on this trail if you’re comfortable with heights.

badlands-hiking

For those wanting a longer hike, The Castle Trailhead is located just across the street from the Door and Window trails. This trail is 10 miles long, and travels west all the way to the opposite end of the Badlands Loop Road at the Fossil Exhibit. Those wanting to hike 10 miles will need a car to pick them up on the other end. However, thanks to a very user-friendly trail system in the park, it’s possible to hike only a portion of the Castle Trail. Starting at the trailhead at Door, hike a short distance on flat terrain to the junction of the Castle and Medicine Root trails. At this point, families have access to a loop of 4 miles, making the hike around 5.5 miles total, or can opt for an out-and-back for less mileage, turning around at the junction.

badlands-castle-trail

Or, do what we did: after seeing Door and Windows, head back on the Badlands Loop Road in your car and stop at the Saddle Pass trailhead. This quarter mile trail connects you to the Medicine Root/Castle Trail loop for a hike of 4.2 miles. The short Saddle Pass section is severely steep as you climb from the valley floor to the top of the ‘wall’, but once there, the terrain is quite flat. Up on this wall while hiking the Medicine Root Loop, you’ll see prairie grasses, sunflowers, wildflowers, and, possibly, snakes and other small animals. There is no shade up here, so plan to accomplish this part of your day in the morning.

Medicine-Loop-Trail

Further along the Badlands Loop Road, families will come to the Fossil Exhibit Trail. This boardwalk loop of about half a mile features well-done displays en route, which describe the various fossils found here, and whether these prehistoric animals ended up adapting, moving to a new region, or becoming extinct.

badlands

If you depart the park via the Badlands Loop Road toward Wall, you’ll come across many more roadside pull-outs with vistas of this area of the park. It seems to go on and on!

Where to eat:

During your day, definitely stop to eat at the Cedar Pass Lodge. This lodge is modern-looking and new, which didn’t quite seem to fit in with the setting of the national park, but inside, it has a very nice gift shop filled with handmade items and Lakota souvenirs, and a casual cafe that serves wonderful fry bread tacos. These native treats can be ordered with buffalo meat or black beans, and they are huge…two people can definitely share one. And yes, they are very fattening. Enjoy!

Where to stay:

The park does have lodging at Cedar Pass, in the form of very nice cabins overlooking the terrain (and the highway, but it’s no big deal). I did not stay the night on this trip, as the park can definitely be done in one day, but certainly this would be a good option as well.

The park is located along I-90 in South Dakota, near Wall. Make a stop at Wall Drug before or after!

Lodging near Joshua Tree National Park

The first time we visited Joshua Tree National Park, we stayed in Indian Cove campground and spent almost all our time within the park boundaries. We never regret spending time in parks; however, several unique lodging opportunities exist in nearby 29 Palms and by the unincorporated town of Joshua Tree. Looking for lodging near Joshua Tree? Here’s where to stay hear Joshua Tree National Park if you don’t plan to camp.

29-palms-inn

29 Palms Inn:

On a first drive through the desert town of 29 Palms, it may not be evident that there’s much to stop for. Not so. This gateway to Joshua Tree National Park has a lively, artistic community with fun dining options and an amazing resort at 29 Palms Inn

Located on 70 acres, 29 Palms Inn is centered around the Oasis of Mara (acquired by the Southern Pacific Railroad during the railroad boom). Guests can still walk right up to the oasis (on site) and explore it. The 29 Palms Inn was established in the 1920s, and is now owned by the Grunt family, who run it locally along with the Roughly Manor. Everything about the Inn celebrates the desert landscape, with much of the resort property outdoors. The pool, office, and restaurant comprise the heart of the inn, with sandy walking paths leading around cacti and brush to multiple stand-alone adobe and wooden cabins, rooms, and studios. The dining area is indoor-outdoor, and there’s an outdoor living room space just beside the pool for relaxing in the shade.

29-palms-inn

Amenities:

We love that sleeping spaces are roomy (perfect for families!) and that breakfast is included. Every morning, guests will find a healthy, homemade breakfast served buffet style. During our visit, we found steel cut oatmeal with toppings, breads and coffee cake, fresh fruit, juice, and coffee.

Lunch and dinner are served (at extra cost) in the same poolside building, featuring produce from the inn’s very own organic garden, Faultline Farm. Picnic lunches are also available to go for $10 each, so you can leave to enjoy the park without stopping for groceries.

Yoga and nature walks are offered on the weekends, and the heated pool is available to guests every day. There are plenty of places for kids to explore and play outdoors, which I appreciate. Hammocks are hung by the garden, and the Creative Center artist studio is located within easy walking distance on site. Here, families can paint a canvas or pottery with artist (and Inn family member) Heidi Grunt.

29-palms-inn

Lodging options:

Lodging options range from a stand-alone adobe cottage with a complete kitchen, living space, and outdoor patio perfect for a whole family, to single rooms ideal for adults traveling solo. Rates are in the $150 range. Check for latest prices. 

Roughley Manor:

Also owned by the Grunt family, Campbell House is very different than 29 Palms Inn, but has the same relaxed vibe and love for the outdoors and nature in common. Founded in 1925 as the Campbell’s Ranch (the Campbells  have a history with the Oasis of Mara as well), Roughley Manor was turned into a bed and breakfast in 1994. The manor and grounds are designed in a serene English manor style, with gardens, shade trees, and stonework. While in stark contract to the desert landscape, Roughly Manor somehow just works, creating an oasis of its own for families exploring Joshua Tree.

roughly-manor

Amenities:

The manor serves a full breakfast included in the room rate. There’s also an outdoor pool, and acres of landscaped flower gardens, fruit trees, and courtyards to relax in. Kids can play Bocce Ball in front of the manor, as well as chess.

Lodging options:

Most rooms are stand-alone cabins and cottages that dot the property, complete with kitchenettes (microwaves, mini-fridges, and sinks) and bathrooms with tubs. Most have a small porch. Some rooms also are offered inside the manor house, for a total of 12 options. Like the Inn, rates are around $150.

roughly-manor

Bonus lodging option:

Families who are adventurous but also ready for a special, spiritual Joshua Tree lodging experience may want to consider the eco-friendly, sustainable earth bag built domes at Bonita Domes. Rented through AirBnb, two sleeping pods in the Bonita Domes ‘village’ anchor an outdoor kitchen, kiva pit, and shower pod. An additional unit is also for rent in the main home.

bonita-dome

Bonita Domes are owned and operated by contemporary medicine woman and Joshua Tree resident Lisa Starr. Because Bonita Domes is also Lisa’s home, she rightfully asks for respect and reverence in this special space. We recommend bringing children who are ready for the experience of sleeping in a pod, being tuned with the outdoors, and can appreciate this special place.

Lisa also offers shamanic medicine sessions at the kiva pit, which I was lucky to experience. The session takes about an hour (sometimes more) and involves a rhythmic drum cadence and meditation. No experience is needed…just an open mind to enjoy the experience. Sessions are $150 each, and not required during the stay (but recommended for families with older kids).

Pit for later!

lodging-near-Joshua-Tree

As I disclose whenever applicable, I experienced these lodging options and the drum medicine session as a guest, for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.

Roe Outfitters review: Sunset cruise on Klamath Lake

While visiting the Klamath Basin with your family, absolutely make time for an outdoor adventure trip with Roe Outfitters. Darren Roe and his team are professionals, have been in the business for almost 30 years, and are long-time partners with the Running Y Ranch. Families can book tours directly at the resort (just look for the desk in the lobby) or call Roe Outfitters directly to book a tour.

roe outfitters

Roe offers whitewater rafting on the Klamath and Rogue rivers, fly fishing and birding trips, guided hunting trips, and family excursions that can include kayaking, hiking, rafting, birding, or, in our case, jet boating on Klamath Lake.

The Klamath Lake Cruise offered by Roe is described as a ‘sunset cruise’. Sounds stately and relaxing, right? My kids were worried about this…until we got underway and they became engrossed in the thrill of fast jet boating and high-action thrills. When I suggested to owner Darren Roe that he should rename the cruise the ‘adventure cruise’, he gave the answer that, in my opinion, is the signature of a great tour leader: he adapts this cruise to his guests, and knew our kids wanted something high-energy and high-excitement.

roe outfitters

He was right: my kids (ages 8-14), were all smiles, their attention on Darren, from the moment they stepped onto the boat and were allowed help drive it. They took turns riding on the bow, getting splashed by spray, and hanging on as the jet boat took crazy-fun turns. In-between the excitement, Darren engaged them with contests for who could spot the first bald eagle (we all lost to our guide), taught us all about the unique properties of the lake (we didn’t know it was the largest west of the Mississippi yet very shallow, or that it produces harvestable algae), and pointed out numerous wildlife.

klamath lake wildlife

Upon departing the boat, my kids declared Roe ‘one of the good ones’, and while that doesn’t sound like an over the top endorsement, I assure you it is. My kids take a lot of outdoor trips and tours, and they’re stingy with their compliments. The operators who get their approval offer hands-on learning and active engagement: from the start, Darren Roe asked for the kids’ help, gave them ‘jobs’ on the boat, and knew just how to act with kids…and won them over instantly.

While on vacation, we understand that families sometimes must choose between several tour opportunities, experiencing perhaps only one. If this is the case, save your one for Roe: you’ll get a high return for your money with these guys. We can’t wait to be back to experience their river rafting!

Date last visited:

June 2013

Rates:

$65/adults, $60 for kids 3-10.

Book through:

http://roeoutfitters.com

Directions:

Roe is located at 9349 Highway 97 in Klamath Falls, though if you’re staying at The Running Y Resort, they’ll often be pick you up.

Disclaimer: we experienced the sunset cruise as guests of Roe Outfitters, for the purpose of review. This hospitality came with no expectation of a positive review.

Family guide to Deadwood, South Dakota

We love wild west towns, especially those that are more historical than touristy. While Deadwood, South Dakota is decidedly both, there’s much to appreciate about this historic town booming in western history.

deadwood-south-dakota

A little background: Deadwood is most famous as the home of Wild Bill Hickok and sheriff Seth Bullock (made even more famous by the HBO series Deadwood). Gold was discovered in the Black Hills at this site in 1875, and in the subsequent boom, Deadwood became one of the most notorious wild west towns. Families can visit the saloon where Bill Hickok was shot to death, visit the graves of Hickok, Calamity Jane, and Bullock, visit museums, and see reenactments.

Note: because the entire town is on the national register of historic places and its rich history in gambling and gaming, Deadwood is still a gaming town. Casinos are present throughout the town. This surprised me, but even though I dislike gaming, it didn’t interfere with my experience too much.

Activities and historical sites:

Reenactments on street: Depending on the time of year, reenactments of shootouts are regularly occurrences on Deadwood’s main street, with characters in period garb. Crowds gather, and the scene only takes about 10 minutes to perform. Catch at least one showing during your visit.

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Saloon 10: Yes, it’s a saloon, but until 8 pm each night, it’s kid-friendly. Stop in to see the chair where supposedly Wild Bill Hickok was sitting when shot to death by Jack McCall. Sometimes, reenactments of McCall’s trial are held in the saloon as well. Kids will like the sawdust floor and fun setting with a true wild west bar, and the menu is quite good. Wonderful historic photos line the walls of the saloon, and of course, there’s a small gift shop.

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Days of 76 Museum: This museum is located just outside downtown at #18 Seventy-Six Drive. It’s massive, so allow a few hours to explore the exhibits of covered wagons, coaches, carriages, firearms, and native american artifacts. Admission is very affordable at $5.50 for adults and $2.50 for kids.

Historic Adams House and Museum: This historic home and museum at 22 Van Buren near downtown offers house tours and scavenger hunts for kids. It’s fun for everyone to see the inside of Victorian life in Deadwood.

Mt. Mariah Cemetery: There is an admission charge for this cemetery of a few dollars, but it’s well worth it to see graves of Calamity Jane, Wild Bill Hickok, and Potato Creek Johnny. On a walkway  further up, you can also see Seth Bullock’s grave. It’s also worth walking along the other grave sites, to note the deep history in the area and a glimpse at the hardships of pioneering life.

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If you need more ideas, stop by the History and Information Center one block south of Historic Main Street and pick up a walking tour guidebook. 17 stops are described in detail, marked by plaques, and the brochure does a good job walking families through the sites and history.

Note: the historic ghost tour advertised in Deadwood is very entertaining and interesting, but it is NOT for children, due to graphic details about the town’s history of prostitution (which, interestingly enough, was banned as late as the 1980s.

Hiking:

There are a few great area hikes in the Black Hills right outside Deadwood. Our favorites, due to accessibility:

Mt. Roosevelt to Friendship Tower: Seth Bullock was actually a friend of President Teddy Roosevelt, serving in his Rough Riders. Upon Roosevelt’s death, Bullock built the Friendship Tower to commemorate him. The hike up Mt. Roosevelt is short and easy, and ends at the tower, which you can climb up. The views are great! Find the trailhead on Forest Service Road 133. Take US Highway 85 north out of Deadwood a few miles to the turnoff.

mt-roosevelt-friendship-tower

Little Spearfish and Rimrock Trails: Located adjacent to Deadwood in the Spearfish area (near Lead), these trails offer a nice overview of the Black Hills. The Spearfish trail is a six mile loop that’s easy to moderate, and the Rimrock Trail is 4.7 mile, but a bit harder. From Spearfish, take Highway 14A to Savoy, then travel west on Forest Service Road 222 for almost five miles to the trailhead. Biking is allowed.

Biking:

Deadwood is home to the Mickelson Trail, a fantastic rail trail that runs through the Black Hills over 100 miles. It’s easy to access right in town, and bike rentals are available at the Pump House at Mind Blown Studio (which is a great place to visit for lunch and to watch glass blowing, too!).  Bike long distance to the town of Rockford, then Hill City if you’re very ambitious, or do what we did, and pedal about five miles out and back for a nice ride. As an alternative, it’s very easy to ride from one side of town to the other in just a few miles, and the entire path through Deadwood is well lighted at night.

rail-trail

How to get around:

Parking is available on the street and in public lots, but in summer, it gets very busy. We recommend taking the town trolley, which is only $1 per ride.

Where to stay:

We stayed at Deadwood Gulch Resort, which is located on the far end of town right on Whitewood Creek. This location is quieter, and still easily accessible to downtown via the trolley. Rooms were simple but clean, and while there’s gaming in the lobby, which I dislike, gaming is unavoidable in this town.

After visiting Deadwood, head to Custer to explore all the offerings in addition to Mt. Rushmore, and to Custer State Park!

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Flickr/AaronVowels

What to do with kids at Lake of the Ozarks

The Lake of the Ozarks is a well-known Midwest destination for summer fun and recreation. With 84 square miles of water, 1100 miles of shoreline, and a host of on-land attractions, the Lake has something for everyone. Here’s a taste of what to do with kids at Lake of the Ozarks:

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The Bagnell Dam Strip:

This classic taste of the Lake offers fun, touristy attractions like old-time photos, a haunted hotel, and the Dog Patch Arcade, an open-air arcade with an old-school nostalgia.

Fun parks:

LeMans Family Fun Park, on Bagnell Dam Boulevard, offers single and double go-karts, a miniature go-kart track for the little ones, bumper boats (a great way to cool down on a hot day), and miniature golf with a view of the lake. They also have two other locations around the Lake area. If the weather’s bad, try Miner Mike’s, an indoor fun-plex with arcade, Ferris wheel, roller coaster, and more, open year-round.

Boating:

Boats and personal watercraft are available for rental all over the lake area. Fishing, tubing, skiing, and swimming in the quieter coves of the lake are perennial favorites.

Sightseeing Cruises:

Tropic Island Cruise takes guests on a 1 1/2-hour cocktail cruise in a 75-foot boat, highlighting some impressive multi-million dollar lakeshore homes. This is a great a date if you’re staying at a resort that offers child care (like Tan-Tar-A or the Lodge of the Four Seasons), but if you bring the kids along they might just get to steer the boat.

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State Parks:

Ha Ha Tonka State Park was developed to feature the ruins of a castle built on the bluff overlooking the Lake. With hiking trails, a large spring, and a boardwalk stairway connecting the blufftop with the Lake, this is a highlight of the Lake area—and free to the public. And Lake of the Ozarks State Park offers beaches, mountain biking, a water trail, camping and cabins (even yurts!), and cave tours.

Food:

What would a vacation be without great food? From fine dining to down home Ozark cooking, the Lake has it all. Check out Tonka Hills Restaurant for casual, family-friendly atmosphere, with breakfast all day, a salad bar, and a fabulous fried grouper sandwich. If you’re on the lake, pull in around the 8-mile mark and grab a bite at Alhonna Resort’s Bobber’s Cafe.  For a quick dessert, stop at the outdoor service window at Randy’s Frozen Custard, on Osage Beach Parkway, for a concrete or a cone. (Bonus: they have an air-conditioned room around the corner reserved for their customers, with an air hockey table.)

Shopping:

Osage Beach Outlets features more than a hundred brand name stores, from shoes to apparel to cutlery, and is open year-round. And who can resist the classic Ozarkland, whose exterior tells you everything you can find within its walls?

Other fun:

Tan-Tar-A resort has horseback riding and an indoor water park, both of which are open to the public as well as to resort guests, who get a reduced rate. The lake also boasts more than a dozen high-end golf courses.

On summer weekends, the Lake area fills up with visitors from surrounding metro areas, so if you can come during the week you’ll find the water and the roads less crowded. There are transitional seasons in the later spring and early fall in which some attractions are open weekends only, and many places close down in the winter, but during the Christmas season the Lake area offers several light displays worth driving through.

Be sure to check out our additional posts on Big Surf Waterpark, Bridal Cave, and the family-friendly Alhonna Resort!

lake-of-the-ozarks

Portions of our trip were made possible by the Tri-County Lodging Association’s Lake of the Ozarks Hospitality Bank, but all opinions are our own.

What to do in Oceanside California with kids

We all know San Diego and Carlsbad are great for kids, but if you’re overlooking Oceanside, you’re missing the opportunity for a prime vacation that includes beachfront, a funky town, and easy access to the best of San Diego county. They say Oceanfront is ‘rising’ for a reason. Here’s what not to miss with kids or without:

Around town:

Surf lessons: Oceanside has a long surfing history (be sure to stop in at the small surf museum downtown). Whitlock Surf Experience has surf lessons for all abilities, or if you already know how to surf, you can hire a surf guide to show you local favorite spots! Tip: be sure to check out the small but thorough surf museum a few blocks inland, too.

Scooters: Ride Oside offers fat tire electric scooter bikes, the way to see Oceanside for parents and older kids and teens. You can rent them on your own or opt for a guided tour. They’re located just up from the beach at 306 N. Cleveland Street.

Helicopter rides: Waverider Helicopter Tours is a two-person operation out at the Oceanside airport, just three miles from the pier. Their prices are per ride, not per person, making them a really good value for up to three passengers at a time. We tried out their 10-minute scenic tour of the Pacific, but there are a range of options that work well for both families and date night. If you have more than three people, no worries: for the shorter flights, everyone just takes turns. For date night, they offer tours that stop in wine country or at sunset or night.

Pier and harbor fun:

Beach time: California has public beaches galore, and in Oceanside, the Strand stretches multiple blocks, with beach access. Children’s playgrounds dot this pedestrian and car promenade, and there are public lifeguard stands all throughout. Head out on the pier for a meal at Ruby’s, and rent beach gear, bikes, and surreys right below the pier area (where you’ll also find shave ice and other snacks).

Kayaking and Stand-Up Paddleboarding: boards and kayaks can be rented at the harbor (about one mile from the pier). You can either use them in the calm water right at the harbor or go outside the wall to enjoy some swells, too.

Where to stay: Springhill Suites Marriott

Located one block from the beach, this Marriott hotel is far from cookie-cutter. It features a fun, modern design with a 2nd floor outdoor deck space for lounging, a rooftop pool and hot tub, a nicely appointed fitness room, WiFi, and complimentary breakfast. The rooms are spacious with balconies and bathtubs, and while only valet parking is available, several city lots are within a block or two.

Note: there is construction currently in the works in front of the hotel (which will eventually result in another hotel going up on the beach), so right now, there is some construction noise. The Marriott is very nicely sound-proofed, however; once I closed my balcony door, I could hardly hear the construction, and of course, it’s absent at night. There are ear plugs and white noise machine in the rooms for you, however. 

Read our guide to dining in Oceanside.

Where to eat in Oceanside California

Forget fast food chains or cookie cutter restaurants. Oceanside is brimming with inventive cuisine from earnest, hardworking chefs and restaurant owners, all with a story to tell. You won’t go hungry, whether you’re in town with your family for some beach time or on a grown-up getaway or solo adventure. Here’s where to eat in Oceanside:

Breakfast:

Elena’s Cafe French Crepes: this hole in the wall on Pier View Way is run by a husband and wife team and serves delicious French-style crepes and local art.

Banana Dang: Smoothies and coffee like no other! Stop in for bananas in blended form in a dozen or more ways!

Petite Madeline: This celebrated local hot spot for breakfast and lunch is not to be missed! 

Lunch with kids:

Ruby’s: Yes, it’s a chain, but the best Ruby’s Diners are on California’s piers. This one at the end of Oceanside Pier is fun for kids and has views for days.

Bagby Beer: Plenty of outdoor space for kids and pets to run around and play while adults enjoy the brews right on the Pacific Coast Highway.

Dinner for everyone:

Exhale: casual yet sleek and minimalist, this simple take on wood-fired cuisine takes tortillas, guac, empanadas, and Mexican corn to whole other levels. 

Flying Pig: Off the main drag, Flying Pig is actually the food joint that started it all…in terms of a foodie revolution in Oceanside. Stop in to enjoy the eclectic decor and fun menus (spoiler: they repurpose old record covers) and stay for the authentic BBQ. 

Master’s Kitchen and Cocktail: Located across the PCH from the newly revamped boutique hotel The Fin, Master’s repurposed a car dealership garage to create an inviting space with inventive salads and sliders, small plates and burgers. The cocktails steal the show, however. Try the Go West if you’re a bourbon fan.

Tip: Thursday is farmer’s market day in Oceanside, right on Pier View Way. It’s a traditional market from 9 am until 1 pm, but then in the evening from 5 pm until 9 pm, it becomes the ‘sunset market’, with street food galore (with an entire row of desserts alone). If you’re in town on Thursday, plan on the farmer’s market being your dinner choice! Stalls not to miss: Flamin Salmon plank-roasted salmon, Viva Paella, Thai rice burgers from Thai Burger, and Wicked Maine lobster.

Date night:

Orfila Wine Tasting Room: this hip and modern wine tasting room has a fantastic chef to pair the wines with tapas, flatbreads, and other shared plates. Start your date night here!

Dija Mara: This fresh take on cuisine from Indonesia is surprising, inventive, and fresh. Try the ceviche with coconut and radishes and the fried rice.

How did I know about all these places? Carla and Linda’s Walking Food Tours! A must for anyone who’s going to be eating their way through Oceanside, Linda and Carla are a wealth of knowledge on the Oceanside food scene. They know the restaurants and their stories, the chefs and the wait staff, and are beloved everywhere they go. Head to http://shoesandchews.com/ to book a your tour; no matter which one you do, you’ll be treated to four stops of sit-down shared plates.

You’ll meet the chefs and serving teams and enjoy the warm company of Linda and Carla. For the $59 tour fee, I sampled four restaurants I would not have likely discovered on my own, and learned about countless more. And I easily came home with to-go boxes to feed two people lunch the next day. The value is incredible. Alcohol and other drinks (aside from water) are not included, but can be purchased at each restaurant. I highly recommend getting the lay of the land with this tour on your first day in Oceanside. Young kids are half price, and as long as they’re old enough to behave in restaurants and are willing to try to be adventurous eaters, they’ll have a great time going from restaurant to restaurant.