Exploring Spokane and Northern Idaho with kids

Two of my three kids were born in Spokane, Washington. During the time we lived in this Eastern Washington city, downtown Spokane remained fairly sleepy, with quiet, understated shops and eateries framing beautiful Riverfront Park. In the years since we moved to Oregon, we’ve been lucky enough to return multiple times for the wonderful outdoor opportunities in Washington and Idaho, and have watched Spokane grow into a more robust, even trendy city with a vibrant downtown.

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This past June, we were able to spend three fun nights in Spokane, enjoying the city’s annual Hoopfest street basketball tournament. As we often do during road trips, we looked for a hotel with plenty of space to spread out, plus a complimentary breakfast or kitchenette to make our own. With three kids (two of whom are teens), we highly value the ability to make some meals en suite. We found a Staybridge Suites hotel that fit the bill: The Holiday Inn Express Spokane Downtown, and were even able to use our IHG points to book during this popular time to visit Spokane.

What to do in downtown Spokane (any time of year):

downtown-spokaneDowntown Spokane is pedestrian-friendly, and from the Holiday Inn and Suites, we were able to easily access Riverfront Park. The walk through the park is lovely, and takes visitors directly into the main downtown core. Here’s what we never miss in downtown Spokane:

Riverfront Square:

This downtown urban mall includes multiple stories of trendy shops, dining options, and activities for families. Directly next to Riverfront Park, families can retreat here for a bite to eat or a movie after a fun day outdoors along the Spokane River.

Mobius Children’s Museum:

Located in Riverfront Square on the lower level, this award-winning children’s museum includes hands-on exhibits for kids from babies and toddlers to pre-teens. We love the ride-on toys and trucks best with boys!

Riverfront Park:

Much more than an urban green space, Riverfront Park was once the location of the World Expo, and infrastructure from these days still exist. During the summer months, families will find a permanent carnival area with Ferris wheel and bumper cars in the park (in winter, this area is transformed into an ice skating rink) and there are walking and biking paths throughout the park and along the roaring Spokane River. Take a gondola ride over the falls, or catch an IMAX movie.

Outdoor Recreation in Northern Idaho:

Spokane is an ideal home base for outdoor recreation. Northern Idaho includes some of the most unspoiled wilderness we’ve seen, with multiple sun-kissed lakes perfect for hikers, fishermen, and boaters. Where we love to go:

Lake Coeur d’ Alene:

Drive 30 minutes to downtown Coeur d’ Alene, Idaho, and enjoy a full day at any one of a number of public sand beaches along the lake. Families can rent motorized watercraft, or just float on river rafts. An excellent wooden playground structure is within easy walking distance.

Haiwatha Trail:

This rail trail in Northern Idaho is ideal for family cycling. It’s been named a top 10 mountain biking trail in the US, but it’s not difficult for kids to navigate. The scenery throughout the Idaho panhandle is breathtaking, heading over seven trestles and through 10 tunnels.

Timberline Adventures:

Located in Couer d’ Alene, this outdoor adventure park includes multiple tree canopy zip lines. A big favorite of teens, kids start out on four-wheelers, which deliver them to the top of a mountain to experience over two hours of continuous zip lines.

Holiday Inn Express Downtown Spokane review:

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When we plan a vacation that will take us outdoors and around town, and keep us out until late, our prime criteria for our hotel includes location, space, easy parking, and free breakfast. As a family of five, we need as much room as we can get, and food is always being consumed by our crew! We don’t necessarily need a pool or complimentary WiFi, but those are sure nice, too.

Holiday Inn Express is a division of IHG hotels, which means we could use our earned points. The Downtown Spokane Holiday Inn Express was especially clean and friendly, with a great breakfast and perfect location. It put us located right by the park, so we could walk around Spokane, but also very close to I-90, so we could hop in the car and be in Northern Idaho in no time.

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As a happy surprise, our hotel offered the special touch of fresh cookies in the lobby nightly from 7 pm-9 pm. When we arrived back at the hotel after a full day of city walking and basketball, we were very happy to see these waiting for us!

Do you use hotel points when you travel? Which ones?

 

Black Hills mountain biking for families

The Black Hills of South Dakota never fail to surprise…and impress. This western region of South Dakota is known as the home of Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, and of course, for its Wild West history (Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane called the Black Hills home). More recently, however, the Black Hills have been recognized as an emerging mountain biking region, known for its amazing range of trails that includes everything from accessible paths and great beginner terrain for families to more advanced trails for avid bikers . Here’s where to go…

black hills mountain biking

Mickelson Trail

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Families looking to add some mountain biking to their Black Hills road trip or vacation should start with the Mickelson Trail. This 109-mile trail curves through several Black Hills historic towns, including Deadwood, Hill City, and Custer. It’s a rail trail, which means it follows an abandoned railroad line, and is therefore a good grade for family riding (in other words, it’s not too steep).

There are 15 trailheads at which you can start your rail trail journey, assuming you’re not going to do the whole thing. Along the way, trestle bridges and rail tunnels add fun for kids, and the scenery is always gorgeous as the trail cuts through the limestone and granite of the Black Hills. It’s easy to follow the Mickelson Trail for a full day, stopping for a nice lunch and some sightseeing en route.

We recommend: Take the section from Hill City to Custer, which is about 15 miles from the Burlington Northern Hill City trailhead to the Harbach Park trailhead in Custer. This map is a useful planning tool.

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Alkali Creek Trail

Families who have intermediate riders and are ready for a bigger challenge than the flat Mickelson Trail may want to try Alkali Creek. The entire length of the trail is 18 miles, but there’s not too much elevation gain. From I-90, you’ll want to take exit 34 near Black Hills National Cemetery, turn right (north) and follow the road for about one mile. For a bigger challenge, try Terry Peak, which is located past Deadwood by the Terry Peak Ski Area in the town of Lead.

Hanson-Larsen Memorial Park Trail Network

For families with beginner and intermediate riders who want a trail system that has a bit of everything, and is based close to Rapid City, the Hanson-Larsen network is located just outside town and offers great views of the city. Head up Skyline Drive to find it (park at Founders Park on Omaha), and be ready for some elevation gains and losses. The circuits are short however, allowing families to tailor the length of the ride to suit. Note: The Skyline Drive Trail is located just past Dinosaur Park in Rapid City, but its trails are more advanced.

Where To Rent Bikes

For families not road tripping with their mountain bikes, there are numerous places to rent bikes while on vacation in the Black Hills. We rented bikes at Rabbit Bicycles in Hill City because this shop is directly on the Mickelson Trail, making it very easy to go from renting to riding. They also offer a shuttle service for families who want to go one way on the trail and then be transported back.

Alternatives certainly exist: If you think you’ll want to ride bikes in many locations, and are flying or driving into Rapid City, consider renting at ACME Bicycles or Black Hills Bicycles in Rapid City. We also noted rental locations in Spearfish and Sturgis.

Tip: Make sure everyone in the family has a properly fitting helmet while riding, as well as shin guards and arm pads for single track (not necessary on the Mickelson Trail). We recommend G-Form pads.

This post was written in partnership with Travel South Dakota, and based on my personal experience in the Black Hills region. Interested in traveling to South Dakota? Get a free travel guide!

Main Salmon River rafting trip with O.A.R.S.

The best—and nearly only—way to experience the 2.3 million acre Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness of Central Idaho is by whitewater raft down the Main Salmon River. The route along the Wild and Scenic section of the Salmon runs 80 miles and requires extensive whitewater experience and permits…or can be booked with an adventure outfitter like O.A.R.S.

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Why choose the Main Salmon with O.A.R.S.?

The O.A.R.S. Main Salmon River trip takes five nights, six days and delivers families through pristine high desert and forested wilderness. Multiple outfitters take this course, but we recommend O.A.R.S for many reasons, including stellar guest service, the comfort of good food and camps, and river expertise.

The Salmon River remains undammed for over 400 miles, and the Frank Church Wilderness is alive with prehistoric, native, and pioneering history, as well as wildlife. O.A.R.S. guides are knowledgeable about both, able to educate guests along the way with nature talks, history lessons, and wildlife spotting. If that’s not enough for you, this O.A.R.S. itinerary employs no fewer than five modes of transportation down the river: guests can ride in an oar boat, dory, paddleboat, inflatable kayak (called a ducky), or stand-up paddle board (SUP).

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What to expect on the Main Salmon:

All five nights along the Main Salmon with O.A.R.S. are spent on sandy beach campsites along the river, with tents and sleeping bags and pads provided. Guests start the trip in McCall, Idaho, where a pre-trip meeting takes place the night before departure. This is the time to ask last-minute questions, get your dry bags to pack belongings in, and meet your trip leader. During our meeting, we met Trip Leader Diego, as well as the other guests on the trip. Diego gave us a weather report—our trip would be hot and dry—and final tips on packing—we’d need two water bottles each, plus lots of sun protection. Our trip included 11 guests total: my multigenerational family of two teens, myself, and my father, plus one more father and son, one mother with two sons, and one couple. In total, we had five kids ages 12-16 and six adults.

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The next morning, our trip started at 7 am with an amazing chartered flight from McCall to Salmon, Idaho in 2-8 passenger planes. We watched out the windows as the rugged peaks and mountain meadows passed below us, knowing we were essentially being deposited into our wilderness area. From Salmon, a rather brutally long bus ride took us to the put-in point along the river, where we were set to depart at the start of the Wild and Scenic section at Corn Creek. We stopped along the way of this two-hour ride at a small store where we could purchase any extra drinks we’d like on the trip. O.A.R.S. provides enough soda, wine, and beer for guests to have approximately two drinks per evening; extra is allowed in moderation. We could also grab any extra items we’d forgotten at this point, such as batteries, sunscreen, sunglasses, or water bottles. All extra drink purchases become communal unless requested otherwise.

dory-rafting

Once we arrived at Corn Creek, we met the rest of our guides who’d be joining us for our week on the Salmon. We had a great crew, as I always have with O.A.R.S.: guides Amber, Morris, and Prester, as well as college-aged gear guides (rowing only gear, not guests) Rose and Dakota. All are essential to the trip and all interact with the guests. We got dialed in on rafting safety (Day 1 of any trip includes multiple talks on protocol and safety) and were on the river before lunch.

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We rafted only an hour or so before stopping to eat on a sandy bank, during which we learned about dining protocol—hand washing, water bottle filling, and trash clean up—and were introduced to the inflatable kayak ‘duckies’. These solo-passenger rafts are popular but require just a bit of skill. Anyone wanting to raft the river in duckies needed to take a ‘swim test’ before we left the lunch spot. This test involves paddling the ducky in an eddy, purposely flipping it over, and getting oneself back in in deep water. This sounds intimidating, but with tips from the guides, everyone in our group who took the test, from the teens to the grandfather, passed.

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We rafted another three hours or so, navigating through our first rapids, Killum, Gunbarrel, and Rainer, before landing at our first night’s camp. Here, we learned all about camping protocol, including how to create a ‘fire line’ to off-load the boats of gear (everyone helps) to how to set up our tents and where to find our sleep kits (which included sleeping bags, tarps, and pillows). We also became acquainted with the ‘Unit’ at this point, sometimes called the ‘Groover’. This portable toilet system is required by all rafting parties on the river as part of the Leave No Trace principles followed. It takes some getting used to if you don’t spend a lot of time in the outdoors, but embrace the Unit: after all, it’s the only option.

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After setting up camp, we found ample time to play, swim, and get to know one another better through conversation over cold beers and sodas. Our guides surprised us with several beach toys brought out from the depths of the boats, including frisbee games and a fun washer game similar to horseshoes. A salmon dinner was followed by more community time around the ‘circle’ (of chairs), where adults conversed and kids brought out card games. Around 8 pm, the summer heat was broken by a spectacular thunderstorm and hail storm: we all dug out rain jackets and scurried to the sanctuary of our tents to wait it out. For most of us, this was the only night on the trip we didn’t sleep out under the stars and bright moon.

river-rafting-camp

The next morning, the coffee call came around 7 am, followed by breakfast of huckleberry pancakes, sausage, and fruit at 8 am. We packed up camp around 8:30, filled up our water bottles with filtered river water, and were back on the boats before 9 am. The next five days followed the same general routine: coffee call, breakfast, camp breakdown, rowing on the water interspersed with challenging rapids, hikes to historic points, or wildlife, lunch, more river time, arrival at camp, playtime both in the water and on the sand, appetizers and drinks, dinner, and community time. As guests, we set up our own tents and helped on and offload boats, but never cooked or planned any of the itinerary.

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Each day on the river brought something new: on Day 2, we floated past a hot springs (and would have stopped had the temperature not been nudging 100 degrees) and stopped to look at Native American petroglyphs, on Day 3, we toured a historic cabin and ranch once owned by river legend Jim Moore, on Day 4, we stopped at hermit Buckskin Bill’s homestead and store, and on Day 5, we hiked a short distance to an old-growth yew tree grove and the foundation of a Chinese mining claim.

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Each morning and at each lunch break, guests can decide which type of raft to ride in or paddle: I liked to alternate between the paddle raft, where guests help paddle, the dory, which sits higher on the water and cuts through rapids with precision and grace, and the duckies, which takes more concentration with bigger rewards. When we needed a break, we could sit back and relax on a gear boat, rowed by guide Morris, who regaled his passengers with stories and tales. The kids gravitated to Morris’ boat as well, but mostly clamored for time in the duckies and on the SUP (allowed in small rapids and riffles, after kids have proven themselves).

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Evening entertainment took on varied forms as well: we played games of ultimate frisbee and card games, played in the water during kayak wars and SUP practice, and even made a ‘raft slide’ of an overturned paddle raft. During two magical evenings, we were treated to talks by the campfire circle on local history and conservation by geology teacher turned river guide Morris. Meals were excellent and varied from Day 1 to Day 6, and to a person, our six guides were hard working, fun-loving, and responsible.

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By Day 3, we’d hit a stride of river life that truly fell into pace with the current. Without screens or smart phones, we slowly felt the tethers of day-to-day demands fall away, to be replaced by a quiet rhythm of sunshine, river water, and fun companionship. By Day 6, we felt so acclimated to river life it felt odd to return to civilization: trucks on the road overlooking the river on the last day felt jarring after so many days without the sound of them and day trippers felt like intruders. While we were ready for a shower and to call loved ones with news of our trip, we never felt uncomfortable on the river: with some much time in the water, we didn’t feel as dirty or grimy as we might backpacking.

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Tips for a successful O.A.R.S. trip:

  1. Remember you’re in a communal environment. This means helping out with gear, respecting rules and people, being considerate (please don’t cut in line at lunch or take the best tent site every night), and acting to keep rafts and camp clean and safe. O.A.R.S. makes sure a hand-washing station (a rather ingenious bucket and hose contraption) is available before every meal and at every ‘bathroom’ location, and everyone is expected to use it to keep germs at a minimum in such an intimate environment. Parents, don’t just do all the above yourself; teach kids to follow rules and be considerate as well.
  2. Expect to follow Leave No Trace guidelines. This means all trash, even ‘micro-trash’ such as table scraps, must be disposed of in the designated containers, because everything packed in will be packed out. It also means you’ll be expected to follow Unit protocol, which does have some rules involved. For instance, liquid waste goes in a different place than solid waste, as does toilet paper and feminine products. Yes, this is gross to think about, but the sooner you leave your inhibitions behind, the better. The Unit is always set up in a discrete place at camp, and while it’s odd to go to the restroom in a place without walls or a door, it affords a beautiful view, and there’s a system to ensure some privacy. Wondering what the ‘Unit’ is, exactly? It’s a metal bucket with a toilet seat attached, which can be seated shut between camps. Does it smell? Not as badly as a pit toilet or port-a-potty. Is plumbing preferable? Sure, but it’s better than being the cause of waste left in camps that will be used by numerous rafters all summer.
  3. Follow the packing list. Our trip was a hot one, with days over 100 degrees, but I was still glad to have my rain gear when we encountered that thunderstorm. And you never know when the weather will change, so you can bet I had my fleece and base layers at the bottom of my bag, albeit untouched.
  4. Don’t expect showers, cell service, or cold water in your water bottle, though you can expect excellent, fresh food and cold drinks at the end of each day. It’s amazing what can be packed into the O.A.R.S. coolers: we had steak on our last night, and fresh nectarines our last morning.
  5. Bring two sun hats and two pairs of sunglasses each. Sunglasses get lost or broken easily, and sun hats are just to precious to be without. Sunscreen is crucial as well, of course.
  6. Don’t expect O.A.R.S. to control the weather or the river (though you can expect them to navigate it with expertise). The natural elements of any river trip must be respected.
  7. Expect rules. There’s an inherent danger in any whitewater rafting trip, and while many freedoms are afforded on the water and in camp, rules are in place for a reason. We found that when we proved to our guides that our teens would listen to and respect rules right from Day 1, more privileges were granted. We love rafting with O.A.R.S. because we feel safe, but not coddled. Our boys were able to push themselves on the water, rafting every rapid in duckies if they wished, and some on the SUP. They were able to explore around camp and even sleep solo on a beach around the corner from us. They loved the freedoms they’d earned.

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A comparison of O.A.R.S. Salmon River to O.A.R.S. Rogue River:

Both river trips are excellent family trips, though the Salmon requires kids be age 12 and up in high water (spring and early summer). Both offer 5-6 day trips filled with incredible scenery, though the Salmon is largely high desert and canyon while the Rogue is more heavily forested with more dramatic canyon walls. We found the same level of guide service on both rivers.

On the Salmon, the trip begins with the scenic flight from McCall, a bonus treat, and includes rafting on dories in addition to rafts. Duckies and SUPs can be found on both rivers.

Ready to book? Get more generalized O.A.R.S. booking tips and read our Rogue River report.

As we disclose whenever applicable, we experienced the Salmon River as guests of O.A.R.S., for the purpose of review.

Black Hills Road Trip Itinerary: Exploring South Dakota’s Wild Side

When families ask me where they can find outdoor adventure, beautiful scenery, American history, and affordable accommodations, the Black Hills of South Dakota are at the top of my list. The first time I visited the Black Hills, I was blown away, and I feel just as passionate about this family-friendly destination today. Located on the western end of the state, the Black Hills are within easy driving distance of Rapid City, or can be accessed via I-90 on a cross-country road trip.

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Black Hills Road Trip Itinerary

From Rapid City, your Black Hills road trip should take you about a week, though families could of course take longer if desired. It’s easy to tent or RV camp in the area during the summer months, but a nice aspect of the Black Hills is the availability of affordable travel lodges, roadside motels, and cabins.

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Start By Exploring Wild West Towns

  • Day 1-2: Drive about a hour from Rapid City to Deadwood, home of Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, and Seth Bullock. Parents, you may have seen the HBO show by the same name. Deadwood doesn’t disappoint, with a historic downtown and multiple museums. Stroll the main street, stopping at Saloon 10, where Wild Bill was shot to death by Jack McCall more than a century ago. Kids will enjoy the sawdust on the floor and the historical photos on the walls, and the saloon is open to minors until late evening. Families can also visit the cemetery where Calamity Jane and the others are buried. Stay at any number of affordable Deadwood hotels, augmenting your history tour with some outdoor recreation on the nearby Mickelson Trail, a gravel-paved bike path and rail trail that winds from Deadwood 109 miles through the Black Hills. Read more about Deadwood activities for families.
  • Day 3: From Deadwood, drive south on Highway 385 to Keystone. This town is best known as the gateway to Mount Rushmore, and as such, is more touristy than historic. Instead of staying the night here, stop to enjoy a few family-friendly activities, like the Rushmore Tramway Adventures, then spend a few hours of the day at Mount Rushmore National Memorial. In the evening, drive on to the small Wild West town of Custer.

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  • Day 4: Families will find lots to do in Custer, starting with the downtown area’s historic buildings and shops. Eat at the Purple Pie Place or Black Hills Burger and Bun (Tripadvisor’s #1 Burger joint in the entire US in 2014, #2 in 2015). For outdoor adventure, 3,000 miles of ATV trails crisscross the Black Hills, and Black Hills ATV Adventures can guide you along some of them just outside of Custer. The Mickelson Trail also goes through Custer and nearby Hill City. Hill City is a good place to rent bikes for the trail for a full or half-day adventure. Stay the night at either Custer Gulch Resort outside of town, or more centrally located Rock Crest Lodge. Read more about Custer activities for families.

Step Into Outdoor Adventure

  • Day 5: Dedicate this day to exploring Custer State Park, which many believe to be worthy of national park status. This massive park deserves at least two days of your time. It can be accessed from Custer, allowing you to stay in town, or families can camp or stay in cabins within the park. Begin with an overview of the park via the Needles Highway Scenic Drive (part of the Peter Norbeck National Scenic Byway). Kids will love going through rock wall tunnels and around hairpin turns (take it slow!). Keep your eye out for mountain goats and bison along the drive. Next, check out one of the lakes in the park for some water recreation; Sylvan Lake rents watercraft and has a family-friendly swimming area. After getting some energy out, take the Wildlife Loop Road to see the buffalo corrals and prairie dog town at the other end of the park.
  • Day 6: The next day, head out on a few hikes. Sturdy hikers will want to tackle Black Elk Peak (formerly Harney Peak), a strenuous seven-mile round trip hike to a lookout tower with exceptional views. The less ambitious can try Cathedral Spires (only three miles round trip) or Badger Clark Historic Trail, which gives an overview of the human history of the park. Read more about Custer State Park.

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End In Rapid City

Rapid City is a fun, small city worth exploring for a day in its own right. It has a recently renovated downtown area, fun eateries, and inventive and artsy shops. There’s even a family-friendly pub and winery in a firehouse!

Ready to explore? Sign up for a free vacation guide.

This post was written in partnership with Travel South Dakota. Get more Black Hills travel ideas here.

Iceland camper van road trip tips

Iceland has become a popular family vacation destination for many reasons: it is every bit as breathtakingly beautiful as it looks in photographs, there’s essentially no language barrier, it’s extremely family-friendly, and the outdoor recreation and sightseeing is almost endless.

What Iceland is not: cheap. Standard hotels can cost families as much as $400 per night on top of expensive rental car fees (especially if you need a 4×4 car for rough roads). Dining in Iceland is very expensive as well; fast food meals at a basic grill during the time of our 2017 trip were about $15 U.S. per person, and standard sit-down restaurant meals were closer to $45-50 per person. The solution: take an Iceland camper van road trip and combine your lodging and car rental cost and eliminate your restaurant dining out cost. Ready for Iceland camper van road trip tips? Let’s get started!

iceland camper van road trip tips

Start with your camper van rental:

The first stage of planning your Iceland road trip is booking your camper van rental. We used Kuku Campers, one of the largest camper van rental companies in Iceland. Kuku Campers offers just about every size and type of camper van, ranging from small vans that sleep 2-3 people to the larger style we rented, which sleeps five (both are Class C, which don’t require any additional training or know-how to drive). You can also opt between 2×2 or 4×4.

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Kuku 2×2 category C camper

We picked this 2×2 van for five people (click on the link to see detailed interior photos) which cost approximately $1800 for nine days ($200 per night). This cost was significantly less than we’d spend on hotels and a rental car. Kuku Campers offers this van in standard (stick shift) or automatic. We opted for standard, as it was cheaper, and  I am comfortable driving a stick shift.

Note: Do you need a 4×4 vehicle? If you’re a regular reader of Pit Stops for Kids, you know we’re a pretty adventurous family. We rented a 2×2 van, and were able to access everything we wanted, and more. You need a 4×4 vehicle only if you plan to drive F roads (Iceland’s most rugged dirt roads), which is needed if you plan to backpack or hike deep in the interior.

The features and configuration of our camper van:

In the front were two bucket seats (the driver’s seat and the front passenger seat). Behind those seats was the kitchen area: a countertop/food prep surface with sink and faucet, storage area for a portable stove/cook top, electric refrigerator (which runs when the car is running), dishes and kitchen utensils and silverware, a large water storage container, and a pantry area for food. Behind the kitchen was the main compartment of the van, which had a padded bench seat in a U shape, surrounded by a roomy kitchen table. Above this was a sleeping bunk. At night, the table and bench seat easily folded down to become a second sleeping area. The bottom slept three, and the top slept two. During the day, passengers could sit on the bench seat with seatbelt while the van was on the road.

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Lots of space: to the front of this photo would be the kitchen area.

In addition to the running water, which ran from a hose from the water container to the kitchen sink, the van had two overhead lights and a nighttime heater (which could be run when the van was turned off). There is no bathroom in the van, but this isn’t a problem (we’ll get to that soon). We found sufficient storage in the van for our bags under the bench seats and at the very back of the van, in addition to smaller storage areas above the front seats and above the kitchen. Lastly, there were useful hooks to hold jackets and rain pants, as well as curtains to pull around the windows at night. These hung on elastic cords, which we used to hang additional items like wet towels and swimsuits.

But was the van hard to drive? 

At first, a little bit, yes. I don’t ever drive anything larger than a minivan at home, so for me, it took a day to get comfortable driving something taller and wider. Icelandic roads are narrower than US roads, so there is definitely a learning curve. I also needed time to get used to backing up the van (though it was far easier than trying to back up a van with a trailer). By Day 2, I was quite comfortable. Overall, driving the van was no big deal, even on dirt and gravel roads, though the van certainly got dirty!

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Stopping to make a snack and take photos on a gravel road. There are plenty of turn-outs to use!

The van took diesel fuel, which seemed to be easily available at every gas station, and it cost me about $160 to fill the tank. We drove for eight days, I filled up twice and topped off once, and I spent a total of $360 on gas. At all campgrounds and parking lots for trails, scenic overlooks, and historic sites, there was ample room to park the van. The only place I had trouble navigating parking was in downtown Reykjavik, and even there, I managed (but it was stressful).

Next plan your trip! Here’s what to expect:

I’m going to say something now that I never say on this site: don’t over-plan. If you allow your itinerary to stay flexible, you’ll be able to advantage of all the many moments of spontaneity possible in Iceland. There are natural wonders and historic sites every few kilometers at times; you can’t do it all, but you can decide what to do in the moment. We planned a general route which included the south, west, and east. We purposely didn’t travel the entire Ring Road because with only eight full days on the road, we wanted to spend more time on side roads than Route 1.

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Waterfall at the base of one of our campsites.

I absolutely loved having our Kuku Camper, because of the freedom it offered. Every day, we traveled WITH our lodging and dining, so we never had to worry about getting to an exact place to eat or sleep each night. In Iceland, especially in the rural areas (which is most areas), we found that restaurants and shops closed relatively early in the day, even in the peak of summer. We were hard pressed to find dining options open after 6 pm, so we loved the ability to picnic our meals anytime, anyplace. We got into a routine of making breakfast in our camper at the campground in the morning, making a picnic or packed lunch to enjoy out and about, and then stopping at one of Iceland’s many, many scenic overlooks to BBQ or cook our dinner on the road. We arrived at each campground at night well-fed and ready to make camp. While we were driving, if someone was hungry, they could simply make a sandwich on the road, and if we decided at the last minute to detour to see or do something, we never had to care about missing reservations.

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Iceland outdoor picnic!

The most unnatural thing to me, as a natural planner, was the fact that you do not need to make campground reservations. If you’ve tried to camp in popular campgrounds in the US in summer, you know this simply isn’t true at home. But in Iceland, they really do mean it when they say their campgrounds do not fill up. They really don’t. Not anywhere. Not ever.

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Georgia road trip: Five pit stops from the mountains to the coast

The following is a guest post by Sue Rodman, managing editor of 365 Atlanta Family.

Why rush to get to your destination when there is so much to see and do along the way? For those who like to enjoy the journey, we’ve put together a Georgia road trip that will take you on winding mountain roads, zipping along the highways, and cruising toward the sunshine coast. Yes, Georgia does have a coast, and we promise you’re going to love it.

Georgia road trip

North Georgia Route 76

Our journey begins in the North Georgia Mountains along the east-west Route 76, which is easy to get to from the north-south I-75 or I-85. This winding trail takes you through the friendly mountain towns of Ellijay, Blue Ridge, Blairsville, Hiawassee and Clayton. Here are some places you’ll want to get out and stretch your legs along this mountain highway.

Ellijay, Ga. This is the apple capital of the state. In fall, pull over at Red Barn Apple House for a peck and some apple cider. Note, Georgia’s apple season begins in late August and runs through the beginning of October.

Blue Ridge, Ga. About 15 minutes off Route 76 down Rock Creek Road is the Fall Branch Falls. This is a great family-friendly hike, and even young kids can make it to the lower falls section. The seclusion here is a nice break from the road.

Blairsville, Ga. Along Route 76 (also called Young Harris Hwy or Route 515) is a quick stop at Sleepy Hollow Enterprises. Explore the whimsical “fairy houses” made by this former Disney Imagineer, and then tour the store. The colorful creations will delight your soul.

Hiawassee, Ga. Along Route 76 in Hiawassee is the Georgia Mountain Fairgrounds. The Georgia Mountain Fairgrounds is open for year round camping along Lake Chatuge, but what it’s best known for are the big events it hosts every year, including the Georgia Mountain Fair, the Superstar Concert Series in the Anderson Music Hall, the Georgia Mountain Fall Festival and Georgia’s State Fiddler’s Convention. If you aren’t visiting during any of these events, check the website, they offer lots of smaller events too.

Clayton, Ga. As you make the turn to get on Route 23 toward I-85, take a break at the Clayton Pharmacy. Tucked inside this pharmacy is an old-fashioned soda shop with milkshakes, hot dogs, and more. I also read their egg salad sandwiches are awesome for packing on a hike.

georgia road trip

Atlanta Georgia I-75/I-85

Whether you take I-75 or I-85 south, they’ll merge together for a bit between Midtown and Downtown Atlanta. If you hit things during rush hour (could be anytime, depending on what’s going on in the city that day), grab a bite from the car hops at the Varsity. You’ll see the sign from the highway on the North Avenue exit. And if you want to spend more time in the city, choose from these 140+ Things to do in Atlanta.

In Atlanta you have two choices, stay on the highway or continue to follow the road less traveled and head east on I-20 toward Augusta where you’ll take Route 25 to Savannah. Along this route you’ll pass the antebellum towns of Social Circle, Madison and Rutledge. Stretch your legs with some shopping at Rutledge Hardware. My favorite things, like a 1940’s ledger, peanut warmer and letter from the 1800’s aren’t for sale, but you can get any number of other essentials. Do yourself a favor and go next door for a piece of buttermilk pie from Yesterdays before hitting the road again.

Middle Georgia I-16

If you’d rather take the shortest route possible to the beach, stay on I-75, but plan to make a pit stop in Macon to learn a bit about the city’s musical roots on a Rock Candy Walking Tour. Macon was once home to Little Richard, James Brown, and Otis Redding — and let’s not forget the Allman Brothers Band! — so there is plenty to see and learn from these local tour guides.

In Macon, you’ll veer off I-75 onto I-16 toward Savannah where you’ll pick up I-95 South. It’s worth a slight detour to Savannah to walk among the live oaks dripping with Spanish moss in the city’s many squares. If you only have a little time, combine a ghost tour with a history lesson and a meal at the Pirates House. Some say it’s a bit touristy, but we love the stories of drunken locals carried off to sea, and they have delicious fried chicken, plus pirate hats for the kids.

Georgia Coast Route 17

From Savannah you can take Route 17 for a back road path through the towns of Richmond Hill, Milton and Darien, or go straight down I-95 to the coast. Follow the signs to St. Simons or Jekyll Islands. On St. Simons look for tree spirits on a very unusual scavenger hunt. These spirits are carved into the live oaks around the island. Be sure to look for the lovely full-sized mermaid!

For a more structured outing, we love the Tidelands Nature Center on Jekyll Island. It’s a bit less flashy than it’s better known cousin the Georgia Sea Turtle Center (which is also excellent). Be sure to check out the special programs like guided kayak tours and dock studies.

Photo credit: Sue Rodman

Italy with kids: Cinque Terre itinerary for families

On a trip to Italy with kids, you’re likely to devote a good deal of time to art and history in Florence and archeological ruins in Rome. Afterward, escape the intensity of the city with this three-day Cinque Terre itinerary for families.

 

Day One: Florence to Cinque Terre

We took a morning train from Florence to Lucca and spent several hours walking around this lovely walled city. It’s definitely worth the side trip. There is a baggage check place right across from the station where we left our bags. From there you can just walk into the town or rent a bike from the same place. 

Then we took a train from Lucca to La Spezia (you can get one ticket that is Florence to La Spezia and just get off and on again) where you change trains for the towns of Cinque Terre. Be sure to get off at La Spezia Centrale station, not La Spezia Milgliarina.

In La Spezia, make sure you take a local train that stops in Riomaggiore (Genoa-La Spezia line). Check the train schedules because they don’t all stop at the little Cinque Terre towns.

We stayed 2 nights at Affittacamere Le Giare which I found through Trip Advisor and booked through Booking.com. Being off-season many places were closed. But this was a wonderful little apartment where our host was waiting for us and made dinner recommendations. We had time for a walk around the town using Rick Steves’ guide.

Note: you can also go from Milan to Cinque Terre.

Day Two: Village to village hiking

We awoke to rain but it cleared up by 9:00 and we found a café in town for breakfast. All the Cinque Terre villages cater to American tourists who come in droves in the summer so there are many cafes trying to serve American or English breakfasts.

You can go from village to village three different ways: by train, hike or by boat. Boats only run in season (and we visited in winter) and most of the train trip is through tunnels, obscuring views between village stops, so we opted to hike. The entire hike is approximately eight miles one-way, which is do-able with older kids and teens, when broken up into a leisurely day.

The first two sections of the hiking trail were closed: Riomaggiore to Manarola is only a 20-minute walk and has been closed for years; the second section, Manarola to Corniglia takes a little longer but is less scenic.

We took the train from Riomaggiore to Corniglia and started our hike from there. Finding the correct trail out of Corniglia toward Vernazza proved to be a bit of a challenge but after climbing a long set of switchback steps up to the town center, we found the red and white stripes on the stonewalls that serve as trail markers.

Tip: It’s a beautiful hike up out of Corniglia and you are able to look back at the village perched on the cliffs. Stunning!

The hike from Corniglia to Vernazza takes about an hour and a half but it is rocky, with some stone steps and somewhat hilly. You hike through vineyards and ravines. No one was on the trail when we were there, which made it pretty magical. In summer the crowds must really take away from the remote beauty, which is why we enjoyed an off-season visit. In another hour we came to Vernazza where we stopped for a delicious pizza lunch at a busy café right by the harbor.

Finding the continuing trail from Vernazza to Monterosso was easy. But the hike to Monterosso was the most difficult of all. It took us about an hour and a half with lots of ups and downs and muddy areas. But most of it is along cliffs with amazing views.

Monterosso is more of a resort town than the others. It is built on flat land and divided into two parts—the old and new. There are long stretches of beach and umbrella rentals, etc. It is also the only Cinque Terre village that is on a main train route. It was our least favorite.

To return to Riomaggiore, we took the train (they come about every hour, more often in summer) and rode it straight through from Monterosso to Riomaggiore. We were back in time to shower and rest up before a nice dinner by the harbor.

Day Three: Manarola back to Rome

We were headed back to Rome today for our morning flight out the next day, but before we left Riomaggiore we took the train to the second village that we could not hike to due to trail closures, Manarola. What a perfect morning outing! We found a little café for some pastries, but not much else was open. It was very quiet. Rick Steves’ walking guide took us up through the town and into the vineyards and graveyards with stone terraces. 

We took the train back to Riomaggiore, got our bags and then took another train to La Spezia where we changed trains to get back to the Rome Termini.

In summary:

  • Visit Lucca coming or going to Cinque Terre
  • Walk as much of the trail as you can and what you can’t, go back to by train and visit the villages that way.
  • Don’t think you’ll have views on the train because you don’t.
  • Pick one village as a base because they are all so close together.
  • Go off-season. We were told April was the best.

How to go wine tasting with kids: tips on visiting wineries as a family

With vineyards springing up all over the U.S., wine tasting has become more popular than ever. Visiting wineries is a great way to assist a local economy, taste local pairings, and learn about an area’s agriculture. In fact, vineyards are now a big part of agricultural tourism. But what if you have the kids along? Can you go wine tasting with kids? We believe the answer is yes. Follow the tips below to have a fun, successful, and positive experience at a winery with kids.

Cliff Creek Cellars

Pair vineyards with outdoor activities:

Instead of telling the kids that they’ll be touring tasting rooms all day (get ready for a negative reaction on that one), pick one winery you’d really enjoy visiting and pair it with a family outdoor activity. Many wineries and tasting rooms are ideally located in the countryside surrounding tourist destinations and cities: think of your wine tasting day as an opportunity to explore a rural area. Outside of Portland, Oregon, for instance, lies the Willamette Valley brimming with wineries…and family fun. Before heading the casual and cozy Alloro Winery, we opt for a bike ride or a side trip to nearby Evergreen Aviation and Space Museum for hands-on, kid-centric entertainment.

No matter what region you’re visiting, before your wine tasting, parents can take the kids on a hike in the area, rent bikes and go for a bike ride, or tour a local museum or amusement park. Consider your wine tasting to be a complement to this family day outside, not the sole reason for it.

lawn games at wineries

Select no more than one winery per visit:

Multi-vineyard wine trails are a lot of fun…for adults. Most kids, however, are pretty much of the opinion that if you’ve seen one vineyard, you’ve seen them all. Most tourists spend an average of one to two hours at a winery: plan for one and done to avoid tired, bored kids. Which winery to pick? Ask your hotel concierge or another local for the scoop on the most family-friendly winery in the region, or pick one closest to other area attractions.

Opt for a family-friendly tasting experience:

Yes, they do exist! The emphasis of a successful family day at a winery is not on the wine itself, but rather on the ambiance and togetherness. That said, my kids will tell you it’s not much fun if everyone has something good to drink except for them. We pick wineries that serve sparkling cider or root beer to the kids while adults enjoy tasting flights, and those that will put together a kid-friendly snack, such as a cheese plate.

Cliff Creek charcuterie plate

Many wineries now allow picnics and other food items to be brought in by guests. Check ahead of time to make sure the one you want to visit has this policy, and if so, bring a spread! Look for wineries with plenty of outdoor space, and a staff who will welcome your kids. During a recent visit to Cliff Creek Cellars on the Upper Rogue Wine Trail of Southern Oregon, our kids were greeted by the vineyard dog and offered their pick of bocce ball or other lawn games by the winery staff.

Get on winery mailing lists to learn about events and festivals:

Many wineries host summer concert series, holiday events, and other family-friendly happenings. One of our favorite Easter Sundays was spent at Troon Vineyard, where the kids enjoyed an elaborate Easter egg hunt while adults enjoyed tastings and brunch. Other wineries in our region host bluegrass bands (perfect for dancing to, if you ask any toddler), art festivals, and local charity events. During the summer months, kids can spot hang-gliders coming in for landing at many Applegate Valley Wine Trail vineyards.

Above all, be responsible:

Of course, you want to be safe and set a good example to your children whenever you consume alcoholic beverages. If you think you’ll need it, hire a wine tour service to drive you to the tasting room and back again, or set out on a short walk with the family post-tasting before you get behind the wheel of your car. Most wineries don’t mind a bit if you linger: bring extra outdoor toys for the kids or even a pack of cards and play a family game before heading home.

Popular state parks in Hawaii

Many people around the world think that Hawaii is just a place where they can see a lot of beautiful beaches and water activities such as surfing and kiteboarding. This picture of Hawaii is what has always been portrayed on TV and magazines; however, there’s so much more to Hawaii than meets as it’s also a place for many natural and historical wonders. Did you know there are more than six state and national parks in Hawaii?

Hawaii

Popular state parks in Hawaii: Today, we will be going through six state and national parks that you have to visit.

1. Na Pali Coast State Park

Na Pali Coast State Park is known for the world’s famous footpaths – the Kalalau Trail. This trail is situated along the tropical rainforest facing the panoramic seafront.

You can reach Kalalau Valley from Ke’e Beach. The trail is a little dangerous during rainfall, so you have to equip yourself with good footwear and other safety gear.

2. Waimea Canyon State Park

Waimea Canyon State Park is known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. However, unlike the Grand Canyon, Waimea Canyon State Park is mixed with lush and green areas.

The rocky portions are red, and the interior is wild and not barren. Although the road is undeveloped, you can have a short walk toward the Waimea Canyon and Pu’uokila from the paved Route 550 in order to get a perfect view.

Hawaii

3. Diamond Head State Park

Diamond Head State Park is located in the eastern part of Honolulu, Hawaii. It’s a circular volcano that looks like diamond crystals.

If you are in Honolulu, Diamond Head State Park is one of the most famous landmarks you will come across.

4. Makena State Park

Maui is what makes Hawaii famous for great beaches, and one of these is Makena State Park. It’s been declared a national park to preserve its beauty and wonder.

It’s not an ordinary beach as Makena State Park is surrounded with white sand and clear water. This is perfect for all beach activities like sunbathing and snorkeling.

5. Iao Valley State Monument

For hikers and mountain climbers, Lao Valley State Monument is another ideal destination. Most visitors climb this mountain not to seek adventure but to find fulfillment in reaching this sacred altar.

Aside from that, the place is also historical as this used to be the site where the Maui army and King Kamehameha I had their historic battle.

6. Haleakala National Park

Hawaii is known for its live volcanoes. When it comes to volcanoes, the Big Island is the place to think of.

There are several volcanic craters in the Big Island and one of them is Haleakala National Park. This attracts not only scientists, but also ordinary spectators.

Conclusion

Hawaii has many things to offer; aside from its great coastline and warm tropical weather, it possesses some hidden gems that are no longer secret to the locals and regular visitors. This is evident in the many national parks you can find in Hawaii.

You don’t have to visit them all just to appreciate Hawaii, because each of these national parks is a complete travel experience in its own. Try to visit at least one or more during your travels, and you will understand what Hawaii really is.

What to do in Boston with kids: Fun things to explore on the Rose Kennedy Greenway

Experience the entire Greenway on foot by starting at either Chinatown Park in the south or at the North End Parks.  In addition to the wide open green spaces, perfect for tossing a ball or playing tag, you can enjoy walking the paths surrounded by beautiful plantings, unique art installations, historic landmarks, attractions; Not to mention the breezes and views of Boston Harbor and the waterfront as you go! 

Fun Things to Explore with Kids on the Rose Kennedy Greenway:

Wondering what to do in Boston with kids? Some of our favorite highlights for kids include:

1. Greenway Carousel

This one-of-a-kind carousel located in the heart of Boston featuring 33 New England native animals.  These unique carousel creatures were inspired by the drawings of Boston schoolchildren and brought to life by a local artist.  Entirely ADA accessible, and fun for all ages, take a spin on a sea turtle, a lobster, an owl, a whale and more!  

Steps from Faneuil Hall Marketplace, Christopher Columbus Park, and the Boston Harbor Walk, (not to mention, the North End!) you’ll enjoy a cool ocean breeze with views of the City in every direction!  

2. Harbor Fog Sculpture

This interactive installation in the Greenway’s Wharf District area, between the New England Aquarium and the Boston Harbor Hotel, is both a cooling fountain and a contemporary art piece. Consisting of three contemporary tiki-like geometric structures, surrounded by large granite blocks, the motion-activated piece releases mist and fog and emits colorful lights when people walk nearby.   Kids love to frolic through it, as they cool off on a hot summer day. 

3. North End Swinging Benches 

These popular benches are a great place to sit and relax, just steps away from the North End.  Picture a bench, that’s a swing. They face Boston’s downtown area and overlook a wide grassy area with gardens along the Greenway, as well as the lower patio of water jets that you can kids of all ages can play around in and cool off in during the summer.

You’ll often see people carrying white boxes tied with string around these parts.   Those are full of cannoli and pastry from either Mike’s Pastry or Modern Pastry. This park is the perfect spot to grab a table to enjoy these delicious desserts, especially as dusk falls. 

4. Rings Fountain

Located in n Wharf Districts Park, across from the New England Aquarium, is a wonderful urban spray park, where you can cool off in the hot Summer days.  Rings Fountain has 64 nozzles that create circles of water, the fountain runs May through October. During the evening hours, colorful lights dance with the water spray for a truly magical summer in the city experience.

Families can come together and enjoy some water play in the rings fountain, toddlers, teens and children of all ages will enjoy getting drenched in water in the Summer.  Food trucks are always on hand from May through September, and there are also many restaurants nearby as well as the food court at Quincy Market and Fanueil Hall. 

5. Codzilla

Codzilla – Looking for a bit of a thrill?  Get ready for Codzilla! Located in the Boston Harbor next to the Aquarium, Codzilla is Boston’s first and only high-speed thrill boat ride featuring a brightly colored hull and two turbo-charged diesel engines generating 2,800 horsepower.   

The ride starts off at a slower pace until they get out of the Harbor.  That’s where you get to hear the legend of Codzilla. Once you make it out to open water, the music gets loud and the boat goes fast!  Lots of speed and fun splashy turns await you. 

If thrill rides aren’t your thing,  Boston Harbor Whale watching tours also depart from this dock, so you really have a lot of fun excursions to choose from. 

6. Rotating Whimsical Art Exhibits:

Everyone looks forward to the rotating art installations that change annually on the Greenway.  The exhibits often include lots of whimsical art, that is great for photo ops, inspires conversation and is just pleasing to the eye.  

Dewey Square, across from South Station, features a giant mural that changes every year.  It’s a mesmerizing process to watch, and once it’s done, the city gets to enjoy it for the entire year.   There is always something new to see and interact with on the Greenway.

You never know what you might come across.  Is this the Wicked Witch of the West’s house?  Or just a yellow meeting house on it’s side? How many different Pig Sculptures can you find on this artists scavenger hunt?  You can even find exhibits that have an element of augmented reality to them. Just download the app and watch as the art transforms.

7. Chinatown Parks

A lovely oasis at the southern end of the Greenway, this one-acre linear park contains design elements drawn from Asian traditions and art work. The area contains a serpentine walkway edged by bamboo within bright red sculptural elements and a unique fountain that suggests a waterfall and shallow riverbed. 

Right outside the historic Chinatown Gate, you’ll find a colorful geometric play structure that is usually being enjoyed by young children, as well as the local Tai Chi club practicing meditation under nearby trees.  You can often find lively board & card games being played by locals in the shaded area by the gate.

Don’t miss your opportunity to grab some dim sum, or a bowl of noodles and dumplings for lunch in one of the many nearby restaurants. 

There are so many more things to do in Boston with kids, and the Greenway provides a nearly 17-acre oasis of green space to enjoy a good number of them.    They say the best things in life are free, and it’s pretty cool to know that can be especially true in Boston.

Stacey Sao is the managing editor at BostonCentral, a website that specializes in helping parents find fun and free things to do with kids in Greater Boston.