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Harry Potter road trip: UK filming sites worth visiting

July 22, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

There’s are many filming locations for the Harry Potter movie franchise scattered over the UK and Scotland, but frankly, not all of them are visit-worthy. For instance, the campsite Harry and Hermione find themselves in during the last book and movie is really more of a sewage treatment center with some grass outside. Other sites, however, have been destinations in their own right for years, and a few gems were virtually undiscovered by visitors until Harry Potter put them on the map. We’ve compiled our favorites. All you need to do is grab a flight and rent a car to check out these stops along a Harry Potter road trip of the UK.

Start in London:

King’s Cross Station: Visiting King’s Cross, the site of famous Platform 9 3/4 is a must for most Harry Potter fans. The wall that witches and wizards run into to access it is actually located between platforms 4 and 5. You can check out the location, then enjoy the decidedly Muggle ambiance of the busy station.

London Zoo: The Reptile House where Harry first learned he could talk to snakes on Dudley’s birthday looks just as it appears in the movie. Plan to stay and enjoy the rest of the London Zoo for at least the better part of a day. The zoo has an excellent lion exhibit and ‘sunset safari’.

Whitehall: The Palace of Whitehall was the main residence of the English monarchs in Londonfrom 1530 until 1698. While filming the Harry Potter series, the Ministry of Magic was set between Trafalgar Square and the Houses of Parliament in Westminster.

Drive to Oxford:

From London, take A40 to M40 to Oxford. Once in the area, there are numerous Harry Potter sites to visit.

Oxford Library: The Hogwarts library, pictured numerous times, including when Harry researches Nicholas Flamel, is located in Oxford’s Duke Humphrey’s Library, which is one of the special collections reading rooms at the Bodleian. Hermione also reads about Polyjuice Potion there, and Harry and Hermione discuss who to take to Slughorn’s Christmas party here.

Divinity School: The Divinity School at Oxford is the setting for the Hogwarts infirmary. Even if you know nothing of Harry Potter, stop in here. It’s breathtakingly beautiful.

From Oxford, continue on A40 to Gloucester:

Gloucester Cathedral: The corridor that leads to The Fat Lady and Gryffindor’s common room is located in the cloisters of Gloucester Cathedral, beautiful to visit whether a Potter fan or no. You may also recognize it as the corridor where Ginny writes “The Chamber of Secrets has been opened” in blood on the walls.

Drive to Wiltshire:

Drive the A417 out of Gloucester to the A361 to Wiltshire. Continue out of town to Lacock.

Lacock Abbey: Lacock Abbey is a treasure trove of Harry Potter sites. Professor Snape’s classroom is located in the Lacock Abbey Sacristy. Also located in the Wiltshire Abbey is professor Quirrell’s classroom. Of note: this room houses a genuine cauldron. The room where Harry views his deceased parents in the mirror is also in Lacock Abbey. In Chamber of Secrets, professor McGonagall uses the same room for her lesson on how to turn animals into water goblets. Horace Slughorn’s house is nearby in Chapel Hill, Lacock, Wiltshire.

Return toward London:

12 Picket Post Close, Martins Heron: Better known as 4 Privet Drive, Little Whinging, this is the exact home depicted as the Dursleys’ house in the films. Martin’s Heron in en route back to London, but it’s fairly close to the city, so this stop can certainly be done as part of your London itinerary as well.

Going further afield:

To continue your Harry Potter tour through the north, start by driving up A120 toward Suffolk.

Lavenham: This charming village is the filming site of Godric’s Hollow. A wonderful medieval village worthy of your visit, Lavenham may not be covered in snow during your visit, as it was during Harry’s Christmas pilgrimage, but you’ll still find plenty to occupy yourself here.

Goathland Station: The station that serves both the village of Hogsmeade and Hogwarts is actually Goathland Station, on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway.

More to see in Scotland:

Alnwick Castle: Known as a popular filming location (it was featured in Downton Abbey, Robin Hood, and more), Alnwick Castle, Northumberland is the location for Madam Hooch’s first flying lesson. You’ll need to walk to the Outer Bailey (courtyard). Harry and Ron also land the Ford Anglia here in Chamber of Secrets.

Loch Shiel, Glencoe: The setting for the Hogwarts Lake (most of the time, anyway), Loch Shiel is located near the Glenfinnan Viaduct. You can definitely see both in a day.

Glenfinnan Viaduct, Lochaber: One of the most recognizable settings from Harry Potter, this viaduct is the one the Hogwarts Express is crossing when Harry and Ron almost crash the Ford Anglia. During the summer months, you can take a ride along the track through West Coast Railways.

Bonus stops:

Wales: In scenic Pembrokeshire, Dobby’s tragic death takes place at Freshwater West.

Ireland: The well-known Cliffs of Moher on the Atlantic coast of County Clare are featured when Dumbledore takes Harry to find the Horcrux in the sea cave. If you also want to see the rock on which Harry and Dumbledore stand, however, that’s 90 miles away off Iveragh Peninsula.

This post was written in partnership with Alamo Europe. Photo credit

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Dominican Republic with kids: Power snorkeling at Sosua Beach

July 18, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

During our Fathom cruise in the Dominican Republic, we knew we wanted to both visit a local beach and take a snorkeling trip. We were able to do both during a power snorkeling trip with Wild Play Adventures.

Usually, we opt to skip official cruise excursions in favor of booking privately. You get a more personalized experience, usually for less. However, in the case of our DR trip, the official excursion was the only snorkeling trip to fit our tight schedule. While there were a lot of people on our trip (at least 25), we still had a great experience, due primarily to the beautiful location and abundance of saline.

Wild Play Adventures picked us up in an air conditioned bus directly from our port at Amber Cove, and drove us 50 minutes to Sosua, a beach town outside of the city of Puerto Plata. The beach at Sosua is gorgeous, and the little town hugging the shoreline is made up of a hodge podge of shops, restaurants, beach bars, and dive shops. It’s a little rough around the edges, and certainly far more local than touristy, and we wished we had more time to explore. Certainly, we’d like to return to Sosua on a return trip to the DR.

We checked into Wild Play’s snorkel center right on the sand, and were given lockers to store our belongings. We were issued fins, snorkels, and masks, and were brought onto the snorkel boat (which came right up to the shore) within minutes. I loved how quickly we were out on the water.

We rode in the boat to two nearby snorkel locations, jumping into the water to explore both. Since this was a ‘power snorkel’ trip, we were issued power snorkel machines, which have propellers that allow you to move more quickly through the water. These machines looked more intimidating than they actually were…the snorkel staff handed them to you in the water once you were already floating, so they were easy to manage. The kids enjoyed using them to propel themselves further underwater, and across small currents. Using the machines was optional, and I decided to snorkel once with one, once without.

We saw a wide variety of tropical fish, jellyfish, and coral in both locations…more than we even saw in Hawaii. I do wish our group had been smaller in number, so I recommend a private tour if and when possible. However, the big group was more manageable than you’d think once in the water. Between snorkel locations, we were served fresh cut fruit and beverages, including water bottles and soda. The two locations were only about 10 minutes apart, but if you’re prone to seasickness, I recommend medicating ahead of time.

Cost:

As noted, our snorkel tour was an official excursion on our Fathom cruise. We paid $69 per adult (12 and up). Check the Wild Play website for current pricing and excursion options. Expect the excursion to take half a day. We left at 2 pm and returned at 6:30 pm.

Age group:

For the power snorkel option, kids had to be 10 and up. Younger kids could participate without the power assist, but trust me, they’ll want to use one. I recommend booking a non-power assist tour if you have young kids.

Directions:

Wild Play picks you up from your cruise port at Amber Cove.

Dominican Republic with kids: 27 Waterfalls of Damajagua

July 15, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Located in the countryside outside of Puerta Plata, Dominican Republic, the 27 Waterfalls of Damajuana is the most talked-about experience on the north side of the island. Is it worthy of the hype? In a word, yes.

What is the 27 Waterfalls of Damajagua?

The 27 Charcos of Damajagua is exactly what it sounds like: 27 waterfalls in a row in the middle of the Dominican jungle. Unregulated until 2004, the waterfalls are now controlled by a private company thanks to Peace Corps volunteer Joe Kennedy (yes, of those Kennedys), and there’s quite the operation at the site. When you arrive, either by tour group or on your own, you’ll now find a dirt parking lot, tour booth, bathrooms and lockers, and outdoor dining area. Your group is paired with a guide from the falls, and you opt between navigating 27, 12, 7, or just one waterfall.

We wanted to do all 27, but the water level restricted us to 12. We went with Iguana Mama, and had a fun-loving guide, Raul. Our group of about 10 people were fitted with life vests and helmets (required), and we trekked almost two miles up a dirt trail. (The trail is around 3 km.) The youngest person in our group was eight, and the oldest was probably me, at age 40. The trail included steep wooden steps, rocks, and pretty severe inclines and declines, but overall was in good shape. The way was shaded as we hiked into the jungle canopy, and we were joined by a second guide, plus our guide who came with us from our cruise port.

When we reached the end of the trail to the 12 waterfalls (which took about 45 minutes), we climbed down another steep staircase and entered the river. In places, the water was only ankle deep, and in other places, over our heads. We began making our way back toward the ‘camp’ via the river, alternatively wading, swimming, jumping, sliding, and climbing in, over, under, and through the river. It was amazing.

At each of the 12 waterfalls, our guides would stop us and explain our options, which usually included leaping off a rock or outcropping into a deep pool of water below, sliding on our butts along naturally carved waterslides in the rock, or taking the ‘chicken’ way around waterfalls on questionable-looking ladders and staircases. Honestly, I think the most dangerous route was via those ladders!

Most of the time, I opted to jump (sometimes as much as 10 feet), but I also enjoyed sliding. The kids loved both options, and often, we’d climb back up ladders or ropes to do certain waterfalls a second time. There were groups ahead and behind us, which meant we had to keep to a schedule (see ’tips’ section below), but overall, we didn’t feel rushed. I don’t love heights, but I’m used to jumping off ledges, so the experience didn’t daunt me. If you REALLY don’t like heights, there are work-arounds for each waterfall, but they’re in the form of the aforementioned ladders, which, honestly, are just as scary.

In some places, you can swim underneath the waterfalls or explore partial caves carved out of the rock, and throughout the whole experience, the jungle canopy is above you, shading you and sheltering you. The sunlight cuts through gently (you don’t need sunglasses), and we didn’t find the hike or the swim to be buggy. The water is refreshing but not too cold.

The route down through the waterfalls took us about 1.5 hours, and afterward, we had a short hike back to the camp where we changed and had an included lunch of Dominican beans and rice, BBQed chicken, and a few kid pleasers like (oddly) spaghetti. Soda and rum and coke were included.

How to book a tour:

You can either arrive to the waterfalls on your own, taking a taxi from Amber Cove or an autobus from Puerto Plata, or you can book an excursion through Iguana Mama or Marysol Tours. The latter option is more expensive, but what you’re paying for is the convenience of the transportation (and the expensive gasoline required to make that happen). If you opt to arrive solo, you simply pay as you arrive (about $480 Dominican pesos for all 27), and guides are assigned to you on a first-come, first-served basis. This means you may have to wait a bit for the next guide.

Tips for the waterfalls:

Book a tour early in the day to play in the water with fewer crowds. This ensures you won’t wait for a guide if you’re going solo, either.
Bring waterproof shoes (like Keens or Chacos) or an old pair of sneakers to get wet.
Put on bug spray and sun screen ahead of time.
Keep everything but your waterproof camera on the bus or in a locker.

Cost:

We booked a tour through Iguana Mama, because we wanted the convenience of a port pick-up. Our tour included lunch and cost just over $50 US per adult. If you opt out of a tour, the cost is significantly less per person (around $10), but does not include transportation or lunch. We were quoted everything from $40-100 US for a cab ride for five people from Amber Cove. It IS possible to negotiate a flat rate from taxis on the highway.

How to get there:

If you go on your own, get up-to-date directions at 27charcos.com. More information is found here.

Dominican Republic with kids: Exploring Puerto Plata with Marysol Tours

July 13, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

If you find yourselves on the northern coast of the Dominican Republic near Puerto Plata, you’ve probably come to the island via Carnival or Fathom cruise, to Amber Cove port. (Most all-inclusive resorts are located at the far tip of the island at Punta Cana.) From Amber Cove, the town of Puerta Plata is only about 10 minutes away, and well worth a visit in your exploration of the area.

You can get a ’top 10’ sort of tour through your cruise ship, but we recommend hiring a guide on your own. We used Marysol Tours, and found the experience far superior to a large bus tour.

The good:

We easily set up our day with Marysol Tours ahead of time, via email. From their site, simply go to the section on Puerto Plata city tours and email your preferred date and number in your party. We were a party of five, and had no trouble getting the day we needed. Francisco organizes the tours, and you’ll be well taken care of.

Before our tour, we told Francisco we wanted to see some of the highlights of the city, including Fort San Filipe and Central Park, but also wanted the opportunity to make some changes to the set itinerary (anticipating we’d get recommendations once on the ship). I loved that Marysol Tours welcomed this flexibility. The price (listed below) was actually less than that of the big group tour, and we had the ability to make changes on the fly.

The standard city tour includes a tour of the rum factory in town, a visit to the amber museum (this area is rich in amber), a few minutes in the old city center with its Victorian homes and church, the San Filipe fort, a cigar factory, and a walk along the Malecon (ocean front). For an extra $10 each, visitors can also go up the cable car, which is the highest in the Caribbean with views overlooking the city.

We decided we wanted to see everything except the cigar factory (which simply didn’t interest us), and we were obliged. We also skipped the cable car, since it was a foggy day, and our guide, Jesus, and driver, Ricardo, took us to a scenic overlook instead, which still gave us views of the city. At the rum factory, we were given the standard tour (with entrance fee covered), and at the city center, we visited the central square and church. This area was run down, but beautiful to see, despite some fairly aggressive locals hoping to show us around for tips. Nearby was an amber jewelry store, and we visited this instead of the museum. To us, this was more authentic because we met the jewelers and saw the process of making the jewelry they sold.

We took a San Filipe fort tour in the same manner as the run factory (Jesus left us in the hands of the on-site tour operators), and then we walked along the waterfront adjacent. All of this was well-worth seeing.

The not so great:

After we visited the fort, we asked if we could end our tour at a restaurant recommended to us. Instead, Jesus and Ricardo first took us to another restaurant on their agenda, which was far too touristy for us, and we had to firmly explain that this wasn’t what we wanted. Despite assurances that we could deviate from the planned itinerary, it took a phone call to Francisco to explain our desires. Certainly, the tour company has an agenda they are trying to stick to. However, after a phone call to Francisco, Jesus was able to take us to Maimon, the tiny town on the other side of the port, where we had been told we could find some of the best seafood in the region. We told Jesus he could leave us here to eat, as it was only a few minutes’ taxi ride from the port, but he and Ricardo kindly returned for us after our meal. And yes, our meal was the best we had in the Dominican Republic. We highly recommend La Primo in Maimon.

The totally awesome:

When Jesus and Ricardo came to pick us up, we asked them where we could find a rare tropical fruit, guanoabana. Ricardo cheerfully took us on a wild goose chase to no fewer than four roadside fruit stands to find the after-dinner treat. Finding guanoabana made our day!

The bottom line:

We had to keep our wits about us to make sure we got the tour we wanted, but once we were clear about our needs, Marysol Tours went above and beyond. We had a very good, personalized tour of Puerto Plata.

Cost:

A city tour with Marysol Tours is $35 for adults and $18 for kids (free for lap children). As noted above, this is less than the pre-determined cruise excursions for a more personalized experience. Be sure to budget a little extra for a tip for your guide and driver.

Directions:

Marysol Tours will pick you up at Amber Cove. During our trip, they were not an official cruise partner, so we had to meet them just outside the main gate (by the highway) instead of in the terminal. It was about a 10 minute walk from our ship.

Disclosure: We were given a media discount from Marysol Tours, for the purpose of review. I paid full price for the teens.

Southern California pit stop: Pioneertown

July 6, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Pioneertown, California is located in the Morongo Basin of southern California’s Inland Empire. If traveling from Joshua Tree National Park or Palm Springs toward San Bernardino or Los Angeles, Pioneertown will (almost) be on your way. And it’s worth the slight detour.

Located in the mountains overlooking the valley floor, Pioneertown began as an elaborate Hollywood set for Western movies. Complete with a main street lined with saloons, general stores, and liveries, Pioneertown can still be explored by anyone who makes the trip up the winding road.

At the heart of the Pioneertown experience is Pappy and Harriet’s, a sprawling saloon, Tex Mex restaurant, and music venue with ample indoor and outdoor seating. Popular with bikers and music lovers, Pappy and Harriet’s is definitely an adults only pit stop at night. However, during the day, bring the kids for lunch to still get a feel for the campy ambiance, then explore around the ‘town’ before continuing on your way.

There’s nothing much out here other than Pioneertown and the restaurant, although a few souvenir-type shops are sometimes open. Walking around and checking out the town is free. Take photos in the Western jail, sit on the saddle in the center of Main Street, and just enjoy this odd but fun pit stop for what it is…Americana at its best, with some history thrown in.

Directions:

Pioneertown Road at Route 62 in the town of Yucca Valley. The winding, 4-mile drive northwest to Pioneertown has been designated a California Scenic Drive.

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Summer activities at Utah ski resorts: What’s open right now

June 29, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

We love visiting ski resorts in the summer. We’ve visited Northstar California for mountain biking, played on ropes courses at Jiminy Peak and Big Sky, and have returned to Park City Mountain Resort several times to bike, zip line, hike, and enjoy Park City without the snowy backdrop. Ski resorts are the perfect road trip pit stop in summer, as their lodging is often ‘on sale’. Utah’s ski resorts are often en route to national parks and other outdoor summer vacation destinations. If you find yourself driving through Utah this summer, stop at one of the following top Utah ski resorts…without the snow.

Top summer activities at Utah ski resorts:

Sundance: Summer at Sundance includes kid and teen camps, as well as mountain biking hiking, and scenic lift rides. We love Sundance because of its profound beauty (perhaps even more lovely than most Utah resorts, and that’s saying something!). It’s also very compact, making it easy for families to explore without feeling like they’re in a huge ski complex. Families can rent cabins with kitchens to keep down on costs, and even take art classes at the art studio on site.
Snowbird: Snowbird’s summer offerings include the usual hiking and biking, but also gives the families the option of mine and water tunnel tours, GPS/orienteering classes (highly advisable!), a boundless playground, tram rides, and kids’ activities like a bungee trampoline. Snowbird is very close to Salt Lake City, making it an easy stop even for a day.
Park City Mountain Resort: For a one-stop shop for summer alpine fun, Park City Mountain Resort pretty much has it all. The area that used to be The Canyons has now merged with Park City, and its base area is still the happening place for mini-golf, zip lining (on mountain), and a world-class bike park. Kids can also try their hand at a ropes course, alpine slide, alpine coaster, or even join a summer camp.
Deer Valley: Deer Valley, like Park City Mountain Resort, has a bit of everything, making it a good home base for summer adventure if you have kids with competing interests. Their bike park is one of the best in the area, with new and improved ‘flow’ trails in their gravity-based terrain (lift-served). They added an intermediate trail last year, and will add a new beginner trail this year. There’s also all the usual suspects around the base, trampolines and the option of scenic lift rides. Within the resort, families can also horseback ride and paddle board.
Eagle Point: If you’re coming or going to Las Vegas, Southern California, or Arizona, Eagle Point is a great place to stop for some summer fun in a higher (cooler) elevation. This summer, they’ll offer mountain biking, hiking, fishing, and even ATV-riding for families.

Opening and closing dates for all Utah ski resorts this summer:

Alta	June 1 – Sept. 15
Beaver Mountain	TBD
Brian Head	June 26 – September 7
Brighton	Closed for Summer
Canyons	June 18-TDB
Cherry Peak	Summer Concert Series (See Below)
Deer Valley	June 17 – Sept. 5 (Plus weekends till Sept. 18th)
Eagle Point	TBD
Nordic Valley	June 18 – August 27 (weekends)
Park City Mountain Resort	Park City Base: May 27 – Oct. 23 I Canyons Village: June 17 – Sept. 5
Powder Mountain	TBD
Snowbasin Resort	June 11 – Oct. 9 (Open weekends)
Snowbird	June 18 – Oct. 16
Solitude Resort	June 17 – Oct. 2
Sundance	May 20 – Oct. 9

How to spend three days in SW Louisiana

June 13, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Southwest Louisiana has something for everyone: families will find rich culinary traditions, incredible wildlife, history, and adventure. Plus, there’s plenty in the way of relaxation and play. Whether you come to Louisiana for the cajun cooking, festivals like Mardi Gras, or to glimpse an alligator, here’s how to spend three days in SW Louisiana, act like a local, and get (almost) everything done:

Day 1: Creole Nature Trail

First things first in SW Louisiana! In addition to checking out the cajun food scene (see link below), families will want to explore the wildlife of the area. The Creole Nature Trail is a 180 mile driving loop that takes you from the city to the rice fields, marshes, intra-tidal areas, and gulf coast, where kids can see tons of birds, snakes, alligators, and turtles. Plan to devote a day!

Read our guide to the Creole Nature Trail.

Day 2: Fishing excursion on Big Lake

At least once while in Louisiana, try to eat your own fresh catch! This region is well known for both freshwater and saltwater fishing, and numerous guide services are available to get you out on the water. We checked out Big Lake Guide Service, which offers day trips and multi-day camps year round. While our excursion got rained out (which happens here and there in spring), we spoke extensively to owner Jeff Poe. Jeff assured us that kids are welcome (parents can determine what age they’re ready, though in his experience, 8 years and up is a good benchmark). They fish in both fresh and brackish water (lake water), as well as trips to the gulf for ocean fishing. Half day trips are possible, and Jeff can provide rods and reels. For serious fishing families, Big Lake Guide Service also provides lodging right on the lake, in duplexes with the option of catered meals.

Do you need to have a guide? It’s recommended. When we spoke with Jeff, he explained techniques for successful fishing he’s honed in decades of fishing SW Louisiana. Families can, however, fish from gulf piers and marsh areas in Cameron Parish (along the Creole Nature Trail), provided they have their own gear and license. (Be careful about alligators.) In addition, everyone is welcome to try their hand at clamming in the marshes (no license or guide necessary).

If you go: be sure to take advantage of SW Louisiana’s unique ‘Catch and Cook’ program, where participating chefs at area restaurants will cook your catch for you the same day! You do need to set this up ahead of time.

Day 3: Cajun history and relaxation

There’s a lot of history in Lake Charles, Sulphur, and greater SW Louisiana. With young kids, start at the colorful and stimulating Mardi Gras Museum, in historic downtown Lake Charles. The museum houses more than 180 costumes from past Mardi Gras, with even more in storage. The museum has almost outgrown itself in its current location, and the winding hallways are literally stuffed with sequins, headdresses, and floats! Location: 809 Kirby/In the Central School Arts & Humanities Center, Lake Charles, LA

While in the area, use the free historic tour app provided by the city to check out the historic districts of Charpentier, Margaret Place, or Shell Beach Drive to see classic examples of early 1900s Lake Charles architecture or magnificent plantation style homes. You can drive these neighborhoods, walk them, or even take a carriage ride.

In Sulphur, the Brimstone Museum is a small but very well-done museum dedicated the the region’s sulphur mining in the late 1800s. Kids will like the displays, and the fact that the museum is located in an old train depot. It won’t take long to tour. Location: 900 Huntington, Sulphur LA

Read our top restaurant recommendations for SW Louisiana.

Paint and create with a local artist: If you need a break from the heat and want an indoor activity, head to Arts’ Desire, located in Lake Charles. Run by a local artist who makes it a priority to help kids create their own authentic projects that celebrate the area, Arts’ Desire has classic paint-your-own ceramics as well as more unique projects, such as ‘fish painting’ (you use an actual fish to imprint onto wood or paper). Location: 1322 Ryan, Lake Charles, LA

Enjoy the afternoon by the pool: Not staying at one of the major resort casinos, with their acres of pools, lazy rivers, and spa services? You can actually get a day pass. Both L’Auberge and Golden Nugget offer pool passes for families ($30 for adults, less for kids), and while the entry price seems steep, you get far more than just a pool. Both have lazy rivers with inner tubes, hot tubs, family pools, cabanas and food services, and Golden Nugget has tube slides. Personally, we don’t like staying at casino hotels, but we’d absolutely enjoy their pool complexes on hot days! Parents can also get a spa day pass, which gives them access to the relaxation rooms, saunas, and steam rooms at the spa.

Check out a festival! When most people think about Louisiana festivals, Mardi Gras comes to mind. And Lake Charles does have a family-friendly celebration! However, fewer people know about Contraband Days, which celebrates the area’s buccaneering past. ‘Pirates’ raid the shore, landing at the seawall in Lake Charles to force the mayor to walk the plank (which he’s a very good sport about). There’s a carnival and food vendors, plus live entertainment. Learn what festival may be ongoing during your visit.

Where to stay in the area:

The Best Western Plus is located conveniently to anywhere you’d want to go in Lake Charles and the greater area. Families will get a decent free breakfast, free parking, and free wifi. There’s a small indoor pool. For a more resort experience, the casino resorts mentioned above have live entertainment and spa services, but there IS gaming (thanks to the casino floors in this area technically being on ‘water’ instead of land). If you dislike gaming hotels, know this going in.

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Driving the Creole Nature Trail in SW Louisiana

June 8, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

One of only a handful of All American Roads, the Creole Nature Trail runs in a loop of 180 miles, with numerous wildlife refuges, gulf beaches, and marshes along the way. Driving the Creole Nature Trail sounds like a lot of miles, but can easily be done in a day. It was the highlight of my trip to SW Louisiana.

Along the way, families will find wildlife refuges, beaches, piers, and even a local seafood diner, and view locals crabbing, fishing, and birding. The trail is located in rural Cameron Parish, where alligators far out number people, and during most of the drive, visitors will find themselves nearly alone in nature. There are 479 species of birds alone in Louisiana, and during our visit, we saw countless varieties, as well as alligators, porpoises, shore birds, turtles, and snakes.

How to plan your day driving the Creole Nature Trail:

Start at Adventure Point, a nature center located in Sulphur, just outside Lake Charles. Here, the helpful staff can give you a map and help you plan your route. You an also download the free app (search for ‘creole’ and it will pop right up.) Kids will learn more about the area’s eco-systems at several interactive displays at the center. For instance, you can try your hand at crabbing technique and ‘sample’ cajun foods via sniffing bottles. At Adventure Point, you’ll learn that there are few gas stations, restaurants, and bathrooms along the trail, and the staff can help you know where to stop!

You can access the trail from either Sulphur or Lake Charles, via I-10. Just follow the map given to you in the center. You can traverse it from either direction. We started in Lake Charles, so I’ll detail the best stops for the loop from that direction.

Cameron Prairie National Wildlife Refuge:

At Cameron Prairie, stop at the visitor’s center to learn more about bird species in the area. The Creole Trail is located under two major flyways, which means there’s opportunity to see the many birds that migrate across the Gulf of Mexico, especially in spring and fall. Behind the center, there’s a boardwalk out onto the marsh to spot birds (look for the cardinal that takes up residence here). On the boardwalk in front of the center, look for turtles in the pond.

Hit the bathrooms here if needed, because there aren’t more for some time. Next, check out Pintail Wildlife Drive and Boardwalk, right nearby. This three mile gravel driving loop is the ideal place to spot alligators (you’re not allowed to bike or walk it due to the number of alligators here). There is, however, a half-mile boardwalk you can walk; we saw alligators and snakes up VERY close here.

Grosse Savanne Eco-Tours:

As you head along the trail after Cameron Prairie, you’ll be driving toward the Gulf. First, however, Grosse-Savanne Eco-Tours is worth a slight detour. The only activity along the trail that will have a fee, Grosse-Savanne offers two-hour boat tours with knowledgable local guides. Out on the water, we were able to see numerous birds and animals up close and personal, and had someone with us who could tell us what we were seeing.

As a photographer, I was in heaven; I must have shot hundreds of images of egrets, warblers, ducks, cranes, alligators, water snakes, and beautiful lily pads. We navigated the canals of both fresh and saltwater marshes slowly, taking time to stop in hidden coves to spy birds’ nests and alligator slides. Tours cost $75/pp for two hours, and I do highly recommend budgeting for this activity. (Bring sunscreen and bug spray.)

Lunch at T-Boy’s:

By this time, you’re going to be hungry. Stop at one of the only restaurants in Cameron Parish, T-Boy’s. This diner in Creole is located where you’ll turn right onto the gulf shore. It’s rough-around-the-edges, but very friendly, and serves authentic cajun meals. You’ll find the usual fried foods, such as fish and shrimp, but also po-boys, grilled seafood, burgers, and homemade potato salad. Kids can get grilled cheese, too. The ladies who run this place are energetic and welcoming.

Cameron Ferry:

Take the five-minute Cameron Ferry ($5 per car) across the water where Big Lake meets the coast. Let the kids out of the car for a few minutes, and be sure to look for porpoises in the bay. Apparently there’s one called Pinkie, due to her pink coloring. We didn’t see her, unfortunately!

Cameron Jetty or Holly Beach:

If you want to spend some time at the beach, stop at Cameron Jetty to watch fishermen and play on the sand, or head to Holly Beach (more scenic). Neither beach will be great for swimming or wading; the water of the Gulf here is almost brown due to nutrients found in it. However, it’s a good place to see shore birds, look for porpoises, and stretch the legs. (You’ll find public bathrooms at Jetty Pier.)

Sabine National Nature Refuge:

If you want to look for more birds in a more wooded setting, take a detour to see Peveto Woods Bird and Butterfly Sanctuary, further out the coast. However, I was told it can be hard for amateur birders to see as much here. If you don’t have time for it, head north at Holly Beach instead, and head to Sabine. You can walk on more boardwalks here, and see song birds as well as more alligators.

Note: The visitors centers, beaches, and refuges are all free along the Creole Trail. You’ll only pay for gas, lunch, and $5 for the ferry. Of course, if you opt for the eco-tour, that will be an extra expense (recommended).

Directions:

Adventure Point is located at 2740 Ruth Street (exit 20) in Sulphur. The trail is accessed via I-10.

Best restaurants in Rome for non-foodies (plus eating in Italy tips):

June 6, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Eating in Italy? You’re in for a treat! After eating our way through the country, I am here for you with tips for dining in Italy with kids, plus our picks for the best restaurants in Rome. Note: for Florence dining recommendations, read our Three Days in Florence with Kids article.

Best restaurants in Rome (by category):

Pizza:

Pizza Forum: This restaurant has a boring name, and looks and sounds touristy, but was recommended to us by our Italian tour guide. She was not wrong. In fact, while it’s located in a very touristy zone near the Forum, it was filling up with locals when we got there at 2 pm.

Panettoni: Located in the Trastevere area, we thought Panettoni served the best of the traditional Roman variety of pizza: it was light, thin, and flavorful.

Honestly, every other pizzeria in Rome calls itself the best. (Not unlike New York City pizza joints, actually.) Just about anywhere, you’ll find good pizza, especially if you stick to the basics. Really. Enjoy.

Trattorias:

Armando al Pantheon: this little place is big on ambiance, in a perfect location for dining after an evening of souvenir shopping around the Pantheon. You can even visit Piazza Navona first, then dip out of that expensive dining area to pay much less for better food here.

Ristorante Pizzeria Imperiale (Largo Corrado Ricci, 37, by Coloseum): Another spot along the busy Colosseum and Forum area, this place as a nice outdoor patio (heated in winter), great seafood dishes, and above average pizza.

Cuccagna 14 (Via della Cuccagna): This bright and cheery trattoria just outside of Piazza Navona won us over with it’s twinkling lights and warm ambiance. Their bruschetta and antipasto was sourced completely by a local farm, and their lasagna was to die for.

Upscale Trattorias:

Il Bacaro: A super-friendly place near the Pantheon, we had great antipasto here and inventive second courses.

Ad Hoc: this cozy little hole-in-the-wall wine bar off Piazza Populo isn’t great for big families, but they can easily accommodate a group of four or less. (I’m sure they can accommodate more, but it would be a squeeze for you and the other diners.)

Faciolaro Ristorante Pizzeria (via dei Pastini by Pantheon): We ate one of our favorite meals here on New Year’s Eve. The grilled steak was a group favorite, and I loved the homemade pasta and excellent artichokes. Their open kitchen is fun, too…ask to sit in the dining area near it.

Gelato, coffee, and dessert:

There’s a little cafe right on the corner of the Jewish Ghetto by Piazza Venicia that serves excellent pastry and macchiato. Ask for the puff pastry with whipped cream. They’ll slice it for you on the spot, fill it with cream, and drizzle it with chocolate.

Cremeria Monteforte: I first found this gelato hot-spot ten years ago on my first trip to Rome. It was so good, I came back for more (Rick Steves swears by it, too). It’s located directly on the piazza of the Pantheon. Sit outside and eat with a view!

Come il Latte (Via Silvio Spaventa, 24): this place by Repubblica has some of the most authentic and homemade gelato in Rome. Plus, you can get flavored whipped cream on top.

Venchi: There are actually many Venchi shops across Italy, and the brand is a solid pick. Look for flowing chocolat calda (hot chocolate) and chocolate candies as well. We found one by the Spanish Steps, but youll see them elsewhere, too.

Note: Right off Piazza Navona, there’s a very average gelato shop with a very extraordinary server. I wish I could remember the name of the place, but it’s located on the far end of the piazza. We assume the server was the owner, because he was very animated, enthusiastic, and welcoming. He joked with the kids, added extra scoops to cones, and smiled at everyone who came in. This older gentleman made our night!

Rome dining tips:

Finding exact restaurant recommendations can be frustrating, since the streets are not in a grid pattern and you’ll likely be meandering until you’re hungry. Our rule of thumb: once you’ve found any major attraction or piazza, enjoy it, then walk one block down any connecting street for the best dining options. The restaurants directly on the piazzas will be higher priced and probably touristy, but just a matter of yards away, smaller, tucked away establishments beckon. This is your sweet spot.

Don’t overlook specialty stores and groceries. Look for meat and cheese counters where you can put together your own antipasto plate to eat at home, or make a picnic out of foods at pasta shops and wine bars.

Florence tips:

Florence and the great Tuscany region is known for their beef and spinach as well as their wine. If you order something in the ‘Florentine style’, it’s likely with spinach. And this is not the canned PopEye variety…you’re in for a treat. If ordering steak, as my teens love to do, be sure to ask how big it actually is. In Florence, it’s often sold (even in restaurants) by the kilogram. It’s not unusual for the steak to be the size of the dinner plate. Enjoy!

Florence can get very touristy, but head over the Ponte Vecchio and you’ll be in fewer crowds and find better prices. Enjoy afternoon gelato, and you may get away with simple antipasto in your room for a the kids’ dinner hour. There’s an upscale grocery store with an excellent cheese and meat counter located right over the bridge. Turn left at the second street and look for the blue sign.

General tips for eating in Italy:

During our trip through Florence, Pisa, Rome, and Naples, we found the following to be true nearly everywhere:

Almost all restaurants around tourist areas will provide menus or menu boards out front. Look through prices before you’re pressured to go in. Primi or pasta courses in good trattorias will be in the 8-12 euro per person range. Secondi courses can reach 20-30 euros per person. There’s no need to order both a first and second course. We liked to order one antipasto plate for the table (see appetizer tip below) and one plate (primi, secondi, or pizza) per person.
Head to trattorias (cafes, casual) but don’t be afraid to venture into osterias (wine bars, pubs). Both are kid-friendly. In fact, just about everything is kid-friendly when it comes to the Italian food scene.
When ordering, beware of saying yes to suggested appetizers ‘for the table’. In Italy, this often means one per every person at the table (with the price multiplied accordingly). We made this mistake at a adorable trattoria near Piazza Navona when we ordered the suggested bruccetta. It was a happy mistake, as the plate was delicious, but still cost us an extra 25 euros.
Buy water for the table by the liter. Ditto for wine, if you’re on a budget. Water doesn’t come to the table automatically or complimentarily. Ordering it per person can be up to 2,50 euro a glass. Alternatively, a liter of water (size of an extra large water bottle) is usually around 3,50. We usually buy a few of these for the table, since we’re used to drinking a lot of water with our meals.
Wine is cheap and plentiful. Enjoy. We like to get a half liter or liter for the table, depending on how many adults will be drinking. Note for parents of teens: the legal drinking age is 16 (and younger kids will not be frowned upon for drinking wine either, FYI).
Soda, on the other hand, is often just as expensive as wine, and sometimes as expensive as water. When we want soda, which isn’t too often, we buy it by the liter in the grocery store, and let the kids drink it during pre-dinner ‘aperitif’.
So what IS aperitif? This is the Italian version of happy hour, but more refined. It’s usually between 6 pm and 8 pm, and involves wine or a cocktail intended to open the digestive track for the later dinner meal. It often comes with antipasto-type dishes. We found that with kids in tow, we didn’t bother going out for aperitif, but we did enjoy our own version in our rental apartment. We bought cheese, crackers, and salami in the grocery store, and paired them with wine for mom and dad and soda or juice for the kids. This tided us over until 8 pm or later for dinner out.
In and around the tourist hot spots in Rome and Florence, you’ll be hard-pressed to find restaurant staff who do not speak enough English to get you by. Even the less touristy establishments can help you pick out what you want to eat, and without exception, we found all restaurants to be friendly to us as Americans bumbling with our Italian.

What are your top tips for dining in Italy? I’d love to hear them!

Exploring Garden of the Gods, Illinois

May 18, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

One of the prime attractions in the Shawnee National Forest, which covers 280,000 acres in Southern Illinois, is Garden of the Gods, a collection of fantastic rock formations that towers above a vast expanse of wilderness. The short hiking trail there makes this a great place to let the kids get up close and personal with nature.

The most famous rock formation is called the camel, but there are many others along the trail, each one beautiful in its own right and showcasing different geological processes and features. It’s a paradise for kids who like to climb, and the views are expansive and beautiful.

A well-groomed walking trail lined with paving stones opens the rock formations to most families. If you have babies or new walkers, you’ll want a carrier or a jogging stroller. There are hills and a few steps, but our four-year-old did just fine on his own two feet. For older kids and adults, the U.S. Forest Service has provided QR codes and a call-in number for a guided tour as well as interpretive signs along the path.

The trail can be walked in 30-45 minutes, but if you explore the formations in depth, you can spend several hours. Garden of the Gods is largely wilderness, which means nothing is off limits for climbing. It’s a fabulous opportunity for the adventuresome souls in your party.

However, “wilderness” also means there are no safety railings. That being said, I was not overly worried about my crowd of four kids. From the trail, the dropoffs look abrupt, but once you get to the “edge,” you generally find several lower levels of rock preceding the long drop. Still, parents will want to take reasonable precautions. We kept our developmentally disabled daughter well away from the edge, and our four-year-old, who sees every even surface as a race track and every uneven one as a launch pad, was required to hold an adult’s hand when he ventured onto the rocks.

This is a remote location and the only services are a pair of pit-style outhouses. Come prepared with your own water and snacks, but leave them in the car and come back when you need them, as they are not allowed on the hiking trail. Garden of the Gods is a place set up to enjoy the splendor of the outdoors in its natural state.

Location:

The Garden of the Gods lies southeast of Harrisburg, Ill., between Illinois Routes 34 and 1.