Guide to surviving (I mean enjoying) the Vatican Museums with kids

You can’t go to Rome without seeing the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica, but make no mistake, the Vatican Museums are difficult to tackle, with or without kids. With over 2000 rooms and nine miles of art, these vast and imposing buildings within Vatican City are overwhelming on the best of days…on the worst, you’ll be wading through crowds that make Disney World on New Year’s Day look like a ghost town. During our most recent visit during the Christmas holidays, we often felt as though we were wading through a sea of humanity. Needless to say, this is not the best way to appreciate priceless art.

vatican-with-kids

Guide to surviving (I mean enjoying) the Vatican Museums with kids:

Families should be prepared to deal with significant crowds, lines, and tired feet when visiting the Vatican Museums, but there are steps you can take to minimize these discomforts and enjoy the experience. The following are our five best tips for a day in the Vatican.

Get a guide.

Don’t even think about trying to navigate the Vatican Museums without one. While you can save money with a large group tour, I recommend a small group tour of ten people or fewer. It’s easier to stick with your guide in a small group, you can enter some of the smaller passageways and rooms that big groups skip, and the tour can cover more ground. We took this tour with Viator. With it, we skipped the line to buy tickets, which is absolutely essential when touring the Vatican Museums. We went through a very short security line, got our headsets so we could hear our guide on the tour, and we were off.

Our guide showed us the essentials; on a three hour tour, there isn’t time for more. But since we’re not art historians and were there for the biggies, like the Raphael rooms and Sistine Chapel, we were very satisfied with all we saw.

viator-tour

Plan to spend 3/4 of a day for a 1/2 day tour.

Plan plenty of time to arrive at the Vatican…it’s a large complex. For our Viator tour, we met with our guide at their tour office instead of at the entrance to the museums, so check your reservation carefully to know where to go. You also need to build in time to eat lunch after a morning tour, plus budget time to look through St. Peter’s Basilica if it’s not included in your tour. If you want to climb the dome, there is a separate line. It may be worthwhile to your group to do this, but I’d take a break and eat something between visiting the Vatican Museums and the dome.

Skip the gardens.

Someone will probably tell me I’m wrong about this (and if so, please do comment), but our tour guide advised that we could see the gardens from the patio/terrace of the museum, and it wasn’t necessary to get a tour there as well. We’re glad we used our time in other ways.

Dress correctly for St. Peter’s.

Remember that to enter St. Peter’s Basilica, you’ll need legs and shoulders covered. This means no shorts in the hot summer months. In winter, it’s easier to be wearing the right clothes, but in warmer months, you may need to make a note to wear long pants and take a scarf or light shirt to put on when needed.

st-peters-baslica

Prepare kids ahead of time.

It really helps to prepare kids (and adults!) ahead of time with some information about the major works of art they’ll see. We looked at pictures of the Raphael rooms, some sculpture, and Michelangelo’s masterpiece before we left home, and learned a little bit about each piece. This way, when the kids actually saw these works of art, they meant something personal to them. Even with this preparation, there were moment of boredom as we went through room after room. I don’t blame the kids; after awhile the frescos start to look the same. Thanks to our guide, we were able to find differences between them and stories to go with them.

Lastly, don’t eat at the cafeteria directly down the street from St. Peter’s, below the square. We were very hungry after our tour and this place and a McDonalds were the first restaurants we saw. We decided the cafeteria must be better than McDonalds. We were wrong.

st-peters-with-kids

Yes, still smiling at the end of the tour. Mostly.

Pricing:

If you decide to tour the Vatican Museums on your own (don’t do this!), you’ll need to queue up early to get in. Tickets are €16 and €8 (adult and child). If you want to buy tickets online to avoid the queue, but not have a guide, it’s possible to buy tickets here.

What are your best Vatican tips?

Exploring Rome with kids: Overome Colosseum tour review

Touring Rome’s Colosseum and Forum is always in the top three attractions for families. This center of ancient Roman history is a must-do, but also big, crowded, and complex. We were very glad we opted to see the Colosseum and Forum with a small group tour. If Rome is in your family travel plans, read on for our Overome Colosseum tour review.

rome-colosseum

We chose to see the Colosseum with Overome based on recommendations from other travel writers. I’d heard Overome’s tour guides work hard to make the content of the tour relevant to kids, are reliable and timely, and are knowledgable. We were steered right, because our guide Federica was all this and more.

Overome Colosseum tour review:

Overome’s Colosseum and Ancient City Tour starts at the Colosseum metro station, directly under the shadow of the great arena. We met Federica (Feddie) here; she was easy to spot with her Overome sign. Our group consisted of only our family of seven, plus three other guests. After brief introductions, we were off…and by off, I mean just across the street to the arena.

Note: I highly recommend booking small group tours instead of large ones. We saw many large groups walking through the sites, and it didn’t look fun to be in a herd.

The Overome tour includes all entrance tickets and fees, so we didn’t have to wait in the imposing ticket line. We did, of course, have to wait in the security line, but although it snaked halfway around the base of the Colosseum on the day we visited, it took less than twenty minutes to get through. During that time, Federica (Feddie) gave us an overview of the structure and its history. While we patiently moved up in the line, we heard other tour guides getting agitated with the wait, and their guests getting impatient. I knew right then, only minutes into our three hour tour, that we were in good hands with Feddie.

overome-tour

Once in the Colosseum, Feddie took us slowly from level to level, explaining how the arena was built and by whom, its architecture and design, and its uses over the years of its history. Even though the complex was crowded, it was easy to hear what she was saying because we were given earbuds and radios.

Everyone knows at least a little about this colosseum of gladiators, emperors, and prisoners, but we learned quite a few new tidbits, especially about the many exotic animals who entertained and died there, as well as specific stories about certain victims of the games.

Feddie used illustrations on an iPad to help explain her points, which really helped us visualize what she was describing. By no means were we looking at the screen all the time, but it was definitely a useful tool. This tour doesn’t take visitors down to the bottom floor of the Colosseum, be we did spend time on the upper levels with views of the labyrinth of rooms and levers and one-time elevators that made the Colosseum function in its heyday. We actually wished we had more time in the Colosseum when it was time to move on to the Forum.

colosseum-rome

The Forum is the section of the ancient city center for which I most wanted (and needed) a guide. Without one, it’s an expanse of half-ruined buildings and rubble. Even with a guidebook in-hand, it’s not done justice without someone knowledgable to explain it. I know, because the first time I visited the Forum ten years ago, I did it on my own. I learned far more with Feddie.

We started at the far end, where she pointed out major landmarks in the Forum and showed us more images on her iPad to give us an idea of what it once was. After we could visualize it, we could see how the remains of marble and stone had once been grand buildings and streets. She explained what each structure had been used for, including the House and Temple of Vestrals, Arch of Titus, and the alter with Julius Caesar’s ashes. We learned about the multiple ‘layers’ of the Forum, and for the first time, I could really see how much of the area had been buried in mud and soil for centuries at a time.

We spent more than an hour in the Forum, which left us with little time for Palatine Hill. We were given an overview, however, and when Feddie left us, we were still inside the complex, so we were free to explore it more on our own. Instead, we were worn out and hungry by this time, so we asked her for a lunch recommendation in the area. After leaving Feddie, we happily dined on pizza at nearby Pizza Forum.

Our Overome tour definitely confirmed my suspicion that we needed an expert to fully experience this part of the city. And we couldn’t have been happier with Feddie; it was clear she likes her job and knows her stuff.

overome-rome-tour

Cost:

The Overome Colosseum and Ancient City tour is $52 per person, and I believe the value is definitely there. At the time of our visit, we departed from the metro station at 9 am, and were done by 12 pm.

As I disclose whenever applicable, our tour with Overome was complimentary, for the purpose of review. Without this type of hospitality, we would not be able to write personalized and up-to-date reviews.

 

 

Why you should tour Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome with kids

While visiting Rome with kids, the time will come when you’ll face a full-on mutiny if you suggest even one more museum. This is the moment to head to the Castel Sant’Angelo. This underrated and overlooked site in Rome is a must-do. We are so glad we tried it!

castel-d-angelo-rome

Unlike the Colosseum, Vatican, and Forum, kids are let loose at Castel Sant’Angelo. This mausoleum turned fortress dates back to AD 123, when it was used by Hadrian’s time, then later used for defense of the bridge to the Vatican and as a refuge for popes. You enter right along the Tiber, and almost immediately go across a steep bridge that once opened and closed. Inside, kids can run along the fortress walls, checking out battlements, a catapult, cubbies from which to shoot arrows…the works. Further inside, you can walk the interior hallways and imagine guards and knights, torches and prisoners in chains. Not much has changed, really. Even the flooring is original. There’s a huge hole in the floor where kids can glimpse the dungeon, and up higher, you can tour through papal rooms still decorated for the popes who hid out here over the years. This interior section is actually quite amazing.

roman-castle

At the very top of the Castel, the views of the city are stunning. Be sure to allow time to take photos and use the view to pick out landmarks you’ve visited during your time in the city. There’s even a small cafe where you can pause for hot chocolate and espresso along the battlement one floor below the top (they don’t let you linger here at the tables if you haven’t ordered, however). Near this cafe are the interior rooms housing armor and weaponry through the ages. Unfortunately the descriptions are in Italian only, but let’s face it…by this point in a trip to Rome, kids are done reading things.

We spent several hours here, and loved the freedom to run around and explore at will. Afterward, we walked across the pedestrian bridge into Centro Storico (the old city) where we weren’t far from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona.

touring-castel-d-angelo

Pricing and hours:

Tickets at the time of our visit were €10 for adults and half that for kids 18 and under. We found no line when we visited a few hours before closing. Check opening and closing time, as it varies by season. During our winter visit, the fortress was open until 7 pm, with last ticket sales at 6:30 pm. I recommend touring around 5 pm in winter to be there for the sunset.

The Rome you may have missed: Why book a Walks of Italy tour

For anyone who can say, “I’ve seen the major sights of Rome, what next?” the answer is Walks of Italy’s Hidden Gems and Ancient Wonders tour. Perfect for adults and teens, this 3.5 hour tour dips in and out of the city and suburbs or Rome to hit upon a somewhat arbitrary yet completely fascinating bouquet of small stops. None of the sights on the tour take more than thirty minutes to view, and with stops ranging in topic from Jewish history to cannon fire to aqueducts, there’s something for everyone.

walks-of-italy-tour

What to expect on a Walks of Italy tour:

Before the tour, we honestly thought 3.5 hours might be a little long. In fact, the time flew by, no doubt due to our funny and passionate guide, Andrea. It also didn’t hurt that unlike every other day in Rome, we were mostly off our feet, hopping in and out of a luxury van.

We only had eleven people in our group (three of which were from our family), which meant we were not one of the massive tour groups walking around the city. We started at Piazza Venezia, where we learned about the history of the buildings there and glimpsed the second century ruins that most overlook (away from the Forum). We then walked the short distance to the Jewish Ghetto and Jewish colosseum, where we learned about the history of Jewish Romans from the time the ghetto was established in the 1500s to the Nazi occupation.

jewish-ghetto

We got in our van, and drove past the Circus Maximus and Palatine Hill to view something I’d been hoping to see in Rome: the view of St. Peter’s from the keyhole of the Knights of Malta. This brotherhood swore to protect the Vatican, hence the symbolic placing of the keyhole. It really is magical to peek inside this unassuming keyhole and see St. Peter’s dome perfectly framed there…like looking into some secret porthole. And while I’d read about this wonder in a guidebook, no way could I have found it on my own!

We then headed out the Appian Way, passing the Baths of Caracalla and stopping at the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella. While I’d been on the Appian way in the past, I’d never known there was so much in this area besides the many catacombs. We learned about the road, stopping to walk along it, see the chariot groves in the stone, and learn about the purpose and use of the road. From here, we went to the Park of the Aqueducts, which is actually just a large space with well preserved stretches of aqueduct. In other words, had we gone out here on our own, we really wouldn’t have known what we were looking at, precisely. In fact, each stop Andrea took us to was something we’d never be able to navigate or learn about on our own.

rome-drinking-fountain

We finished the tour with a few more ‘drive by’ views and a stop at Janiculum Hill, where every day at noon, a cannon blast is set off to let the churches know when to ring their bells. Today, traffic obscures the cannon shot in most neighborhoods, which is why we had not heard it once in our five days in Rome! We certainly heard it from the hill! This is great place to take photos of the city, too. Finally, we drove down a particular street with a view of St. Peter’s dome that creates an optical illusion due to the street’s size and curve of its sidewalk: as you drive closer to the dome, it actually appears to grow smaller. This is yet another small tidbit of Rome I never would have discovered on my own.

roman-aquaduct

We stopped several times for bathroom breaks and/or food breaks along the way, each time at a nice cafe with a friendly staff and great atmosphere. Snacks were on our own; our 11-year-old had the best pastry he found in Rome at one next to the Jewish Ghetto. Again, this tour should not be your first activity in the city, as it won’t hit the headliners, but is rather the perfect thing to do with your last morning in the city, or during repeat visits.

How to book:

appian-way

It’s easy to book your tour directly through Walks of Italy. We booked online, and printed our confirmation email, which also listed our meeting time and location (just look for the person holding a Walks of Italy sign). They also do tours of the biggies, like the Colosseum and Vatican. They do offer lower prices for kids. Grab breakfast before you go, bring water, and try to be at your meeting point about 10 minutes before the tour time listed.

As we disclose whenever applicable, Walks of Italy offered us a media rate for this tour, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Shasta Cascade pit stop: Turtle Bay Exploration Park

If you’ve taken I-5 on a west coast road trip, chances are you’ve driven right through Redding, California. We had passed through numerous times before we had the opportunity to stop and check out this Northern California town. If you’re looking for a place to stop with kids, it’s a great choice! The Sacramento River runs through town, offering plenty of opportunity for families to cool off in summer. In the winter, it rarely gets too cold here. The best place to stop within Redding with access to the river is Turtle Bay Exploration Park.

exhibit

This sprawling indoor and outdoor park is home to a natural history and science museum, botanical gardens, live animal exhibits, butterfly gardens, and walking trails. Young kids will find playgrounds and interactive exhibits, and older kids will love the miles of trail.

Families enter the park via the parking area by the Sundial Bridge. It’s worth letting the kids stretch their legs on this bridge first; it’s pedestrian only, and visually interesting with a tinted glass floor and sundial feature. Afterward, head to the Turtle Bay park entrance and museum, and explore the indoor exhibits. We loved the aquarium with fish from the Sacramento River, the mining exhibits explaining the area’s rich mining history, and the river lab, with information about watersheds and the nearby Shasta Dam.

The museum does a great job incorporating local landmarks, such as Lake Shasta, into its educational exhibits on water and land management.

Don’t miss the temporary exhibits, tucked a bit out of sight in the museum’s Exploration Hall and Art Gallery room. During our visit in the early spring of 2016, they were featuring an interesting Charles Schulz exhibit called Peanuts…Naturally, and an interactive maze-type exhibit on the water cycle in which kids can pretend they’re a raindrop and spin wheels to determine their fate. It was a lot of fun for all of us.

Turtle-Bay-Exploration-Park

Outdoors, the Paul Bunyan’s Forest Camp is a huge area with winding trails leading to animal enclosures, play areas, and outdoor exhibits. Be sure to grab a program and look for daily shows and demonstrations on offer. Our crew enjoyed the creek water feature at Stipple Creek, where they could create dams and watch a water wheel turn, and the Mill Building, which houses reptiles. The bird exhibits in crude hawks, golden eagles, and magpies, among others. I enjoyed seeing red and gray foxes and a bobcat. By far, our son Tobias’ favorite exhibit was the Parrot Playhouse, where he could feed nectar to lorikeets (bring $1).

Dining at Turtle Bay:

There’s a small gift shop and coffee shop attached to the museum, but while it has some snack type items, you’re best off bringing your own picnic lunch. There are numerous places to eat outdoors, and Redding is almost always warm enough for this. Find a place along the paths by the river, or find shade at the tables outside the coffee shop.

sundial-bridge

Lunch in Redding:

If you’re not bringing a picnic lunch into the Turtle Bay area, we suggest one of the following two excellent lunch spots for families, only 5-10 minutes from Turtle Bay and the Sundial Bridge:

Wilda’s Grill: This small restaurant has limited indoor seating and some nice patio seating, but the main draw is the great food! Choose between their Buddha bowl (rice and veggies with tofu or chicken), their falafel, or their gourmet hot dog options. Either way, be sure to get their ‘hot mess’ instead of fries: this side order consists of all Wilda’s side dish offerings in one, including sweet potato fries, french fries, onion rings, and cheese and chili fries! I loved the Buddha bowl, and the others each tried a hot dog entree. Located at 1719 Placer Street, Redding.

Carnegie’s: Carnegie’s is a local favorite, with hearty sandwiches, soups, and craft beer on tap. It’s located adjacent to Wilda’s, and often gets crowded at lunch. Take this as a good sign, as we did, and enjoy! Located at 1600 Oregon Street, Redding.

wildas-grill

In the area:

From the same parking area, you can access miles of walking and biking trails, especially along the Sacramento River National Recreation Trail. We didn’t see a bike rental shop in the Turtle Bay area, but it would do a brisk business if it existed…this area is perfect for a family bike ride. After crossing the Sundial Bridge, you can pick from several riverwalk trails. If you bring your own bikes, even better. In the summer, Redding gets very hot, so plan to stay close to the river to cool off as needed.

Note: there is currently some construction going on in the area behind Turtle Bay, as they build a Sheraton hotel. It didn’t impact our visit, but families should be aware.

Admission and hours:

Turtle Bay Exploration Park admission is $16 for adults (16 and up) and $12 for kids. Children under age 4 are free. On the 5th and 10th of each month, Turtle Bay hosts ‘Nickel and Dime Days’, in which admission is $10 for adults and $5 for kids. By far the best deal, if you think you’ll find yourself passing through even a handful of times a year, is a family membership for $80/year. Check here for current hours.

Turtle-Bay-Exploration-Park

Directions:

Turtle Bay is located at 844 Sundial Bridge Drive, about five minutes from I-5.

As we disclose whenever applicable, we were hosted at Turtle Bay Exploration Park for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Where to eat in Paris with kids…if you’re not a foodie

I will admit that before we arrived in the City of Lights, I was intimidated by the Paris dining scene. We don’t speak much French, we’re not foodies, and we don’t like snails (sorry). After spending five days in Paris with kids, well, I’m still intimidated by the Paris dining scene, but we ate there happily anyway. Here’s where to eat in Paris…and how.

where-to-eat-in-Paris

Hit up patisseries for breakfasts:

And snacks. And maybe lunch. We loved these French bakeries, which seemed to be on every corner in Paris, no matter which arrisondment we found ourselves in. Baguettes of crusty French bread cost less than €1, and French pastries, including eclairs and chocolate croissants (pain au chocolat) are about the same price. I guess it’s similar to going to a donut shop for breakfast every morning, but seems so much classier. And yummier. Our favorite bakery was Boulangerie Saint Michel, in the Latin Quarter, as well as the many near our apartment rental in Montmartre.

paris-pastries

Street vendors are king:

Instead of searching out kid-friendly cafes at lunch time, we ate street food. Lots and lots of street food. Not only was this option much more affordable than eating out, it was a time saver and frankly, delicious. The kids ate mostly crepes (they can be filled with things like Nutella and bananas to make them slightly more nutritious), as well as hot dogs (wrapped in baguette, of course). We adults ate a lot of quiche and baguette sandwiches, and never complained.

paris-food

We found street vendors to be most plentiful in the areas around major tourist attractions of course, including the Lourve, Notre Dame, Saint Michel, and the Concorde. Enjoy a buffet of street food along the rue between Notre Dame and the Hotel d’Ville, before you cross the ‘island’ to the other side of the Seine.

paris-crepes

Make your own picnic lunches (or dinners):

We loved sampling the wares at Paris street markets and in Paris cheese shops. Consider food shopping in Paris to be a combination of sight-seeing, souvenir-shopping, and dining. We created lovely picnic dinners to enjoy in our apartment after our legs were too tired to walk further. We shopped for cheese, cured meats, dried fruits, and baguette, and supplemented these items with crackers and inexpensive wine and juice from the grocery. Voila…dinner is served.

eating-in-Paris

Yes, you should try some restaurants, too:

We didn’t want to do anything fancy in Paris, but we did eat several tasty meals out in casual cafes. Our favorites were recommended in our itinerary created for us by Momaboard. Read more about Momaboard’s itinerary planning in our post on creating a Paris itinerary with kids.

Here are a few dining experiences their planner, a local parent, recommended:

  • Cafe Constant (139 Rue Saint-Dominique)
  • Cafe La Place Cambronne (5 Avenue Anatole)
  • les Cocottes (135 rue st Dominque)

paris-creperie

All of these dining establishments are kid-friendly, casual, and serve simple fare and rustic French cuisine (comfort food). We also tried several cafes in Montmartre, near Sacre Coeur. While this little square is very touristy, we found friendly waiters here willing to hear out our rudimentary French, good mussels and frites (fries), and a cheery ambiance. Go just below Sacre Coeur to the bottom of the steps, and the cafe on the corner there makes for a nice date night out for parents with that luxury.

Where do you like to eat in Paris with kids? We know we only scratched the surface!

Visiting Atlanta with kids: Children’s Museum of Atlanta

Downtown Atlanta is a quintessential “pit stop,” boasting an array of attractions to break up a long road trip, from the Coca Cola museum to Centennial Olympic Park to CNN’s headquarters. In the center of this thriving metro sits the Children’s Museum of Atlanta. Newly renovated with a focus on STEAM (science, technology, engineering, arts and math education) programming, the CMA offers families, especially those with children up to age 9, a chance to stretch their legs and have fun while sneaking in some stealth learning.

children-museum-atlanta

Our family visited CMA during their grand re-opening event. It was busy, but the open layout prevented it from feeling crowded. On the main floor you will find a large area sectioned off for the “farm to table” exhibit, which includes a tractor, milking a cow, a delivery truck, a forklift with a platform that raises and lowers, a grocery store and a diner with the most fabulous kid-sized commercial kitchen any child could imagine. This was the favorite area for my four- and six-year-olds.

CMA has also taken the ubiquitous ball run and re-envisioned it as a series of interlocking mechanisms. Kids can force the balls up into the matrix by air, water, auger, and pulley, and the balls move between areas.

The centerpiece of the main level is the globe, which kids can climb up inside and set in motion. At the base of the globe are a collection of train tables, one for each continent, and moon sand tables. There is also a building area and a section for little ones with fishing (raincoats provided) and a fabulous chicken coop play structure. Here you’ll also find a nursing room.

atlanta-with-kids

The “mezzanine” level is aimed at older children. At the “science bar,” a scientist walks kids through experiments. Nearby, interactive stations let kids build a robot, use a touch-screen app to see how food goes through the body, or use their brain waves to move a ball. The museum also offers daily take-home activities (a sailboat, the day we visited) and a presentation at 4p.m. A rotating feature exhibit opens soon.

One of the most striking and wonderful things about this place was the diversity of its visitors. We heard half a dozen languages and saw at least that many skin colors during our short visit. Signage is bilingual, and the staff is courteous and helpful, keeping an eye on each section and making sure items find their way back where they belong for the next child to enjoy. (I spent half an hour watching one young lady in the “farm to table” section patiently picking up all the pieces of toy food and putting them away on the grocery store shelves, only to do it all again five minutes later.) Although the museum caters to age 9 and under, my 10-year-old enjoyed the visit as well.

Shopping/Food:

CMA has a gift shop and vending machines, but no in-house dining. However, there are many dining options within walking distance, and same-day museum re-entry is permitted, providing maximum crowd capacity has not been reached. The best option, though, is to bring lunch along or order from one of a number of nearby establishments that deliver. The museum has set aside a sizable section of the mezzanine level for lunchroom-style tables.

childrens-museum

Accessibility

The vast majority of the attractions are stroller/wheelchair accessible–even part of the chicken coop play structure in the little ones’ area. A large open section at the rear of the first floor is set aside for stroller parking.

Hours/Admission:

Plan to spend at least an hour and a half at CMA, and if you have longer, the kids will thank you. Admission is $14.95 for everyone over age one. Discounts are outlined at “ways to save.” If you live within a couple hours of Atlanta, a family membership may be a good option. Tickets are issued for specific time slots in order to help alleviate crowding at peak times. CMA is open from 10-5 seven days a week except on certain holidays.

Parking/Directions:

Children’s Museum of Atlanta is located in the heart of downtown Atlanta, at the corner of Baker Street and Centennial Olympic Park Drive. It has no dedicated parking space of its own; however, parking options are plentiful within a block of the museum.

Our family received complimentary admission to the Children’s Museum of Atlanta in exchange for an impartial review.

Paris day trip: Touring Normandy D-Day battlefields

In each major city we visited during our European trip, we opted to take one long day trip outside the city limits. In Paris, many options for day trips vie for attention, but for our family, a tour of the Normandy D-Day battlefields won out. We have two teens who have studied WWII history, and this tour was their pick.

d-day-beach-tour

Touring Normandy D-Day battlefields:

We opted to go through Viator for our tour,, choosing their Normandy D-Day Battlefields and Beaches tour. One of the most respected and well-known tour companies operating across Europe, we trust Viator to provide a high quality experience. One thing for families to note that many don’t realize: Viator is a middle man. They don’t conduct the tours themselves, but rather outsource them locally. For travelers who expect to be led by a Viator guide from a Viator office, this can be unsettling or even alarming, but I think there’s a good reason behind it: Viator is a huge operation, and cannot be the expert on everything, everywhere. I appreciate that they seek out the best guides within each city. In any case, we had a tour with them in both Paris and Rome, and in both cases, our guides were top-notch.

For the D-Day tour starting and ending in Paris, Viator uses Paris City Vision. We met our group and guide at the Paris City Vision office by the Concorde in Paris at 6:30 am the day of our tour. Yes, painfully early, especially since we’d be late if we waited for the metro. We opted to call a car service so we’d be certain a ride would be ready and waiting for us. (We used Blacklane, which I highly recommend. Read more about our experience with them in this post on planning a Paris itinerary.)

After an easy check-in experience at Paris City Vision, we headed for Normandy on a luxury tour bus. I know, I know, everyone hates big tours in tour busses. But it was fine and I’ll explain why: we never, ever walked all around in a huge group at the sites. Our tour stopped at four locations, and our guide talked to us while the bus was in transit in each case, allowing us to tour as individual families. This is where the value of the tour came in: we didn’t have to figure out our own transportation to and from Normandy, we had all entry tickets taken care of, and we had expert commentary before each stop.

normandy-d-day-museum

The drive to the first stop, which is in Caen, takes almost three hours. Yes, ouch. But we slept, and found the bus very comfortable, with reclining seats and reading lights and a restroom onboard. The first stop on the tour is the Caen-Normandie Memorial museum at the site of a German bunker and stronghold during the French occupation, and covers WWII very much in depth, from pre-war time through the liberation. It does cover the holocaust in detail, so prepare children. In fact, I’d recommend this whole tour only to families with kids age 10 and up. We’d prepared them for D-Day battle details, but didn’t know we’d need to prepare them for some very sad details regarding Jewish ghettos and camps. This part of the museum was too much for our 11-year-old. It’s hard to bypass because exhibits are intermixed, but the area downstairs towards the end of the hall have the most holocaust stories. The violence of the D-Day battles are much less graphic, even in the film…he has no problem with those aspects of the museum.

An included lunch was served in the museum for our group privately. It was a sit-down affair, with a salad bar (French cafeteria style, with a second dessert and cheese station) and main dish. There was not a choice in the main dish. When we visited, it was a rustic French style cuisine of baked chicken or hen. Some of us loved it, others not so much, but there was plenty of food for those who didn’t enjoy the main dish.

The tour then drove us through very pretty Normandy countryside and villages to Pointe du Hoc, Omaha Beach, and Juno Beach. Pointe du Hoc is the region on high cliffs scaled by US Rangers and has extensive bunkers and bomb craters to look at and walk through. Omaha Beach has an excellent visitor center (be sure to leave time to go downstairs) and the US cemetery. Juno has the memorial to the Canadian forces and easy beach access.

The picturesque countryside and tiny villages (of which we drove through several) was an added bonus for me on this trip. I had wanted to find a way to explore more of the French countryside, and this way, we got to see some of this without renting a car for the day. Our guide pointed out WWII-related landmarks in and around the villages, such as the hedgerows that cost so many lives as smaller battles were fought through and between them.

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The entire day was certainly sobering, but also beautiful and impressive. We learned a lot, and as noted above, we had plenty of time for personal reflection and family time during the day, as we spread out from our larger group at each stop. As a family, we were able to decide our own itinerary through each memorial and museum, spending time together and digesting the information together. For families wishing to find a particular memorial marker or name, there is time for this. However, we found that at each stop, we didn’t quite have as much time as we’d like. Certainly, had we been staying in Normandy and had more time, we would have spent at least a half hour more at each stop.

We returned to Paris around 4 pm, stopping for a quick dinner at a service station along the interstate. This meal was on our own, and nothing more than a necessary stop. I was actually glad they hadn’t built in another longer meal, as we were ready to be back in the city by this point. We arrived back at the tour office around 8:30 pm.

Certainly, this tour was a very full day, but our sixteen-year-old lists it as one of the most memorable of our trip. Teens who have studied (or will study) this war will find it fascinating. Our 11-year-old was also old enough to understand and enjoy the tour, though he did get bored a few times. If you go, be prepared for some heavy subjects and hard questions, and do your best to prepare kids ahead of time. As noted above, there’s nothing visually graphic as far as war images go, but the stories and the cemeteries do take their toll. By the last stop at Juno, I will admit all we wanted to do was walk together as a family on the beach.

A few practicalities and pricing info:

Bring books or iPods for kids’ entertainment on the bus, or even a deck of cards. The bus seats have little trays like airplane seats do. I also suggest bringing bottled water, though our guide was great about pointing out where we could buy more along the way. The cost of the tour is on the higher side of Viator’s Paris offerings, due to the length of the tour and distance traveled. We felt the value was definitely there, provided you have older kids or teens.

Book on Viator.com, and print out your confirmation page. That’s all we needed at the tour office. When you book, you’ll receive an email from Viator letting you know which company is conducting your tour and where to meet.

At the time of our visit, pricing was $199 for adults and kids were approximately $99. This price includes all admission fees and lunch, plus the transportation. There’s an option to pay more for hotel pick up/drop off.

As we disclose whenever applicable, our Normandy tour was paid for by Viator, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Dog sledding and snowmobiling in Breckenridge

The town of Breckenridge Colorado is known for its epic skiing and snowboarding, but there are many other ways to enjoy the snowy mountains here. Whether you want to plan a day away from the slopes during a longer vacation or have non-skiers among you, head out to Good Times Adventures, about twenty minutes from town.

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Good Times Adventures offers snowmobiling tours as well as dog sledding excursions. It’s worth noting that snowmobilers have the opportunity to see sled dogs in action, as their kennels and sledding trails are located in the same area.

Snowmobiling in Breckenridge:

We booked Good Times Adventures’ most popular snowmobile tour, which is two hours in length and takes visitors through wooded trails up to an open vista along the Continental Divide. Personally, I was most interested in seeing the scenery: on a snowmobile, we could cover a lot more ground than on nordic skis or snowshoes. Without a doubt, however, my teens and pre-teen’s primarily interest was in the snow machines themselves, and the possibility of driving them. Here’s the nitty gritty:

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  • Kids 15 and older can drive their own snowmobile, provided you’ve decided to purchase that option. They must be 18 or older to drive with a passenger onboard.
  • Good Times has over 40 miles of groomed trails, and each guide decides on a route, so you don’t see much of other groups once out on the trails.
  • Our group consisted of only 7 guests (5 machines), which was a pleasant surprise…we expected a larger group.
  • The trip starts and ends at a large open practice area, where you can get used to the machines (and have some fun going pretty fast). Our guide explained how to use the machines in about 10 minutes…even for novice snowmobilers like us, it was easy!
  • Snow suits and boots are provided if you want them, or you can wear your own gear. You must, however, wear their helmets, so don’t bother bringing your own. If you do, they’ll be stored for you.
  • You do have to bring your own mittens or gloves, eye protection (goggles), and face mask/scarf. You’ll really want one of these.
  • The ride goes through the scenic Swan River Valley and up to the Georgia Pass to the Divide, at over 11,000 feet.

Those of us unfamiliar with snowmobiles really loved this tour. However, if you snowmobile regularly, going in a group with a guide may be too tame for you. I liken it to horseback tours: because I’m familiar with riding, nose-to-tail rides are a bit boring to me. But they’re thrilling to those with less experience. You know your family: if your primarily motivation is to see scenery and have fun on machines that you don’t get to ride or drive often, this is a great way to spend an afternoon at Breckenridge. If you ride snowmobiles often, maybe this is not for you.

snowmobiling-tips

Scheduling: tours depart hourly. See the Good Times Adventures website for exact hours. Be there 30 minutes before your departure time.

Cost: drivers are $110 and passengers are $55. Kids 8 and under are only $25.

Dog Sledding:

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Dog sled tours are in the same location, and include a meet-and-greet opportunity with the dogs, information from your musher, and time out on the trails behind the dogs. Visitors on the tour take turn in the sled and on back, guiding the dogs…the others are pulled in a comfortable sled wagon behind a snowmobile. The good: everyone gets lots of opportunity to see the dogs run. The bad: if you don’t like the noise of snowmobiles (as I don’t), you’ll be subjected to it. This is too bad, because dog sledding along quiet snow-covered trails is quite magical, and some of that is lost here.

dog-sledding

Cost: Adults are $75, and kids 8 and under are $40.

Note: For either the snowmobiling or dog sledding experience, it’s customary to tip your guide or musher.

Getting here:

Fom downtown, head North on Hwy 9 (Main Street) approximately 2.5 miles until you get to the stop-light at the Tiger Road intersection. At Tiger Road, turn right and enjoy the scenery for about 6.5 miles until the road dead-ends in our parking lot. Shuttle pick-up and drop-off is also available from various points in Breckenridge.

As we disclose whenever applicable, we experienced snowmobiling as guests of Good Times Adventures, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Walk in the footsteps of Harry Potter and his friends on your next visit to London

There’s no doubt about it, children and adults all over the world are obsessed with Harry Potter and his adventures. From Harry Potter Book Nights, where fans gather to celebrate the Harry Potter series, through to tours of the locations and the studio where the movies were made, if you’re a Harry Potter aficionado you can always find something to satisfy your thirst for further knowledge of the young wizard.

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In fact, the Harry Potter phenomenon has even stretched as far as Japan, where their enduring fascination has generated unheard of book sales, box office receipts, and even his very own theme park, since the release of the first movie, Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, over 15 years ago. Just this week, the Japanese have taken their obsession one step further as a series of Harry Potter Manga characters created by a Japanese design company were released, albeit only in Japan for the moment.

The illustrations, which were created in collaboration with Shockhiku, a Japanese movie studio, and licensed by Warner Bros, represent 13 characters from the quintessentially English adventure, and include all the major players in the series from Harry himself, Hermoine Grainger and Ron Weasley to Albus Dumbledore and Professor Snape, who was played by the great British actor Alan Rickman who died recently. There’s even a Manga representation for Harry’s owl, Hedwig. Released as plastic folders with a character on the front and the four Hogwart’s houses on the back, the characters have typical Manga features, with enormous eyes, tiny feet and glossy hair.

However, for real Harry Potter fans, there’s nothing like being in London and taking a tour of the locations used in the Harry Potter movies. Whether you want to see Kings Cross Station, where they filmed the famous Platform 9¾, or 12 Grimmauld Place and the sites used for the Leaky Cauldron, an organised bus tour of the London locations is one of the best ways to get around London and see not just the places featured in the movies, but also some of the iconic London landmarks. With a tour guide to give you all the insider information about how the movies were actually made, it’s one of the best ways to immerse you and your children in the whole Harry Potter experience. Plus, if you really want to get in the mood, you can even dress as one of your favourite Harry Potter characters, although this is not a requirement.

harry-potter-tourVisiting London offers the perfect opportunity to find out more about how the movies were made, and to learn more about movie making in general if you’ve got any budding Steven Spielbergs in the family; so for this reason a Harry Potter Studio Tour is a must for any die-hard fans. During the tour you’ll get an up-close-and-personal  view of the actual sets used to film all eight of the Harry Potter movies, plus you’ll get to see the stunning costumes, props and visual effects that were used to bring these truly iconic movies to life and to the big screen. Children will love visiting the sets, including the Great Hall, Diagon Alley and Hagrid’s Hut, and they’ll also be given the opportunity for a photo shoot sitting in the flying Ford Anglia, made by Arthur Weasley, and used by Fred, George and Ron to rescue Harry who’d been locked up in his room.

Both of the above tours are available from Brit Movie Tours who offer a range of Harry Potter Tours in London and other locations throughout the UK.

Photo credit: Barry Benbridge