Exploring the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone: navigating Upper and Lower Falls

During a time when many vacations are not possible, outdoor activities in road trip-accessible locations offer the ability to safely social distance. Hotels.com asked me to share my favorite activities and tips for exploring Yellowstone, so start here as you plan a safe and responsible vacation.

Located a full 50 miles away from the central hub (and congestion) of Yellowstone National Park‘s Old Faithful, the Canyon Village area of the park offers arguably the most dramatic scenery with fewer tourists to contend with. In this “Grand Canyon of Yellowstone”, families can view yellow-tinted cliffs and the Yellowstone River at its most active at both the Upper and Lower Falls.

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The best hiking and waterfall viewing is found at Lower Falls, which can be viewed by car pull-out along the North Rim Drive at Lookout Point and Red Rock Point. (South Rim Drive takes you to the Upper Falls at Artist Point.) If you’re hiking instead, take the South Rim Trail (though be advised that it is one-way), or the Brink of the Lower Falls Trail. Both offer great views of Lower Falls, which is actually longer in height than Niagara Falls. We opted to hike just 1/2 mile along the South Rim Trail, turning down steep steps to view the falls from an overlook. The entire hike, including the hike back to the car and the overlook detour, was approximately 1.5 miles…just right for a quick after-lunch excursion. The entire trail is 2.5 miles, though one-way.

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Be careful on all the overlooks and trails along the canyon with young kids. The way is often steep, and the drops are severe. We never felt unsafe, but we did require our adventurous kids to stay close by. Keep to the overlooks if series of steep stairs may be too much for little legs: the way is slow and long!

A good dining option near the falls is found at Canyon Village. Skip the often-crowded soda fountain and grille for the cafeteria.

Where to stay in and near Yellowstone:

Wondering about Yellowstone lodging? If you can get reservations well in advance (think 8-9 months out), a stay at the Old Faithful Inn is iconic (though often crowded). The Lake Yellowstone Hotel is another great option, or the park offers many cabin rentals in addition to campgrounds. You will need to reserve any and all of these well in advance. For an option away from the crowds, consider Harriman State Park, on the Idaho side. Its rustic yurts and bird sanctuary provide much-needed peace!

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What else not to miss:

In addition to the falls, time spent in the Madison section of the park will offer great geothermal displays, though crowds will teem here due to its proximity to Old Faithful (only 16 miles away). Another less crowded option in the park is Fishing Bridge and the Sylvan Pass area near Yellowstone Lake: the vistas are made even more beautiful here due to the lack of tourists. In our experience, Yellowstone’s West Entrance tends to get the most crowded, while the East Entrance is nearly always empty. Granted, visitors entering here will have a long drive to reach the center of the park (over 30 miles), but the way is rugged and stunning in its remoteness (just keep an eye on when the Sylvan Pass opens each spring).

No matter where you head in the park, expect slow driving on park roads, and plan to stop a time or two for wildlife viewing. During our single day in the park, we stopped for buffalo twice, a bear once, and an osprey nest (with osprey).

As I disclose whenever applicable, we are partnering with Hotels.com to bring you this post on Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon.

Exploring Spokane and Northern Idaho with kids

Two of my three kids were born in Spokane, Washington. During the time we lived in this Eastern Washington city, downtown Spokane remained fairly sleepy, with quiet, understated shops and eateries framing beautiful Riverfront Park. In the years since we moved to Oregon, we’ve been lucky enough to return multiple times for the wonderful outdoor opportunities in Washington and Idaho, and have watched Spokane grow into a more robust, even trendy city with a vibrant downtown.

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This past June, we were able to spend three fun nights in Spokane, enjoying the city’s annual Hoopfest street basketball tournament. As we often do during road trips, we looked for a hotel with plenty of space to spread out, plus a complimentary breakfast or kitchenette to make our own. With three kids (two of whom are teens), we highly value the ability to make some meals en suite. We found a Staybridge Suites hotel that fit the bill: The Holiday Inn Express Spokane Downtown, and were even able to use our IHG points to book during this popular time to visit Spokane.

What to do in downtown Spokane (any time of year):

downtown-spokaneDowntown Spokane is pedestrian-friendly, and from the Holiday Inn and Suites, we were able to easily access Riverfront Park. The walk through the park is lovely, and takes visitors directly into the main downtown core. Here’s what we never miss in downtown Spokane:

Riverfront Square:

This downtown urban mall includes multiple stories of trendy shops, dining options, and activities for families. Directly next to Riverfront Park, families can retreat here for a bite to eat or a movie after a fun day outdoors along the Spokane River.

Mobius Children’s Museum:

Located in Riverfront Square on the lower level, this award-winning children’s museum includes hands-on exhibits for kids from babies and toddlers to pre-teens. We love the ride-on toys and trucks best with boys!

Riverfront Park:

Much more than an urban green space, Riverfront Park was once the location of the World Expo, and infrastructure from these days still exist. During the summer months, families will find a permanent carnival area with Ferris wheel and bumper cars in the park (in winter, this area is transformed into an ice skating rink) and there are walking and biking paths throughout the park and along the roaring Spokane River. Take a gondola ride over the falls, or catch an IMAX movie.

Outdoor Recreation in Northern Idaho:

Spokane is an ideal home base for outdoor recreation. Northern Idaho includes some of the most unspoiled wilderness we’ve seen, with multiple sun-kissed lakes perfect for hikers, fishermen, and boaters. Where we love to go:

Lake Coeur d’ Alene:

Drive 30 minutes to downtown Coeur d’ Alene, Idaho, and enjoy a full day at any one of a number of public sand beaches along the lake. Families can rent motorized watercraft, or just float on river rafts. An excellent wooden playground structure is within easy walking distance.

Haiwatha Trail:

This rail trail in Northern Idaho is ideal for family cycling. It’s been named a top 10 mountain biking trail in the US, but it’s not difficult for kids to navigate. The scenery throughout the Idaho panhandle is breathtaking, heading over seven trestles and through 10 tunnels.

Timberline Adventures:

Located in Couer d’ Alene, this outdoor adventure park includes multiple tree canopy zip lines. A big favorite of teens, kids start out on four-wheelers, which deliver them to the top of a mountain to experience over two hours of continuous zip lines.

Holiday Inn Express Downtown Spokane review:

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When we plan a vacation that will take us outdoors and around town, and keep us out until late, our prime criteria for our hotel includes location, space, easy parking, and free breakfast. As a family of five, we need as much room as we can get, and food is always being consumed by our crew! We don’t necessarily need a pool or complimentary WiFi, but those are sure nice, too.

Holiday Inn Express is a division of IHG hotels, which means we could use our earned points. The Downtown Spokane Holiday Inn Express was especially clean and friendly, with a great breakfast and perfect location. It put us located right by the park, so we could walk around Spokane, but also very close to I-90, so we could hop in the car and be in Northern Idaho in no time.

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As a happy surprise, our hotel offered the special touch of fresh cookies in the lobby nightly from 7 pm-9 pm. When we arrived back at the hotel after a full day of city walking and basketball, we were very happy to see these waiting for us!

Do you use hotel points when you travel? Which ones?

 

Multi-night river rafting on the Tuolumne River

The Tuolumne River near Yosemite National Park is one of the most pristine and exciting rivers I’ve experienced. But is river rafting safe during COVID-19? My fifteen-year-old son and I rafted the Tuolumne River for three days with OARS, and not only did we have the usual amazing time on the river I’ve come to expect from an OARS trip, but we felt safe and responsible, too.

All of our OARS trips include the same basic formula: clean mountain air + clean river water + starry skies and lots of adventure. Our three day, two night trip on the Tuolumne included all of the above, plus some additional safety measures that had been put into place.

Instead of flying, we drove to the meeting place from Southern Oregon (about a 7 hour drive) and stayed overnight in charming Groveland, California near the entrance of Yosemite National Park at the Groveland Hotel, which I highly recommend for their friendly hospitality, ample outdoor deck space with in-house dining, and whiskey bar (yes, really!).

The next morning, we met with our group of 12 additional rafters and trip leader, Rebecca, then boarded an OARS bus for the 45 minute drive to the put-in on the Tuolumne. We began experiencing the COVID-19 safety measures immediately.

How OARS makes river rafting safe during COVID-19

  • Before arrival, every guest filled out a health check-list and survey.
  • At the pre-trip meeting, everyone’s temperature was checked.
  • Everyone’s temp was checked every day of the trip thereafter.
  • Face coverings were worn by all on the bus and any other enclosed space, plus the kitchen area of camp every day.
  • Face coverings were also worn any time guests from separate families/parties interacted at a distance of less than six feet, such as in rafts, while setting up camp, etc.
  • Individuals were assigned all gear, including tents, pads, chairs, and sleeping bags…no swapping.
  • The OARS crew always wore face coverings while preparing food and setting up camp, and hand washing was mandatory for ALL multiple times per day.
  • Hugs were banned, but hand waves and air kisses sufficed!
  • Hand sanitizer, soap, and water for hand washing were available at all times.
Face coverings like Buffs double as eye masks during raft naps!

What you can ALWAYS expect from OARS on the Tuolumne

Whitewater, whitewater, whitewater! This river is technical and fast-moving, and offers a lot of Class IV and Class V rapids. As such, guests spend their time in paddle boats instead of individual IKs (inflatable kayaks, a.k.a ‘duckies’). At first my teen was bummed to not be able to man his own IK, but we agreed that the thrill of the whitewater made paddle-boating more fun than usual.

The river’s water level is controlled by daily releases from Hetch-Hetchy dam, which adds a particular challenge: your start time on the river might change daily based on how much water is flowing. For instance, on day 1, the water was released at 10 am, and we were off and floating. The last day, it wasn’t flowing until 3 pm, which meant we hiked and swam first.

Each day, we camped at another iconic location along the river, with views of foothills, eagles and hawks, and whitewater. The banks of this river are exposed and the sun beats down hot, but the river water is cold, so you’ll be refreshed often!

Our guides took us on side hikes up canyons and creek beds every day, where we were delighted by swimming holes and jumping rocks. Each hike was more ‘canyoneering’ than walking, so river shoes with good traction are a must. The hikes are short in length, however, and definitely worth the effort.

Each meal was carefully prepared for us by our OARS crew, and we dined on salmon, steak, eggs, bacon, French toast, fresh fruit, salad wraps, and more. Two beers or soft drinks per person, per night are included, as well as wine at dinner. Guests are free to bring their own additional beverages as desired, to be consumed in camp (not on the river).

If you have more generalized questions, or need camping, packing, or ‘grover’ (portable camp toilet) advice, please see our post on what to expect on every OARS trip.

Perhaps best of all about a Tuolumne River trip, you’re in close proximity to Yosemite! I highly recommend pairing your OARS adventure with some time exploring Yosemite National Park.

Summer in the Berkshires: Zoar Outdoor river rafting

The largest of three area river rafting outfitters, Zoar Outdoor offers all levels of tours down the scenic Deerfield River, from family float trips to advanced whitewater day trips. Located in beautiful Charlemont in the heart of Massachusetts’ Berkshires, Zoar is one part family resort (tent cabins and lodge rooms are available), one part adventure center (guests can try their skill on the climbing wall, bike, hike, and zip line while visiting), and one part rafting outfit.

family float trip

During a time when many vacations are not possible, outdoor activities offer the ability to safely social distance, especially if families road trip or are visiting locally. Hotels.com asked me to share my favorite activities and tips for exploring the Berkshires, so start here as you plan a safe and responsible vacation.

Where to stay in the Berkshires: Lodging is available throughout the Berkshires and I would have loved to experience a night or two in this beautiful location! The town of Lenox has the most options available, which puts families close to Jiminy Peak ski area, which offers up fun in all seasons.

We visited Zoar on a late June afternoon for their Family Float Trip, which departed at 3:15 pm and ended at approximately 7 pm, and included a picnic dinner on the river, provided by Zoar. Depending on how many guests have reserved space on the trip, tours may depart with several rafts in the party or just one; on the afternoon of our trip, we were a solitary raft seating six guests and one guide.

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Our guide, Matt, was a natural on the river, having grown up on the Deerfield, floating and rafting from an early age. One of over 50 well-trained Zoar guides, Matt was a wealth of information about the local natural landscape and wildlife (as well as what to do with kids in the area). Clearly skilled at his job, it was a pleasure to spend our hours on the river with him. The kids agreed; they loved the ways in which he kept what could have been a sleepy river float an adventure. Matt made sure we found all the ‘white water’ we could, stopped in the deeper pools for swimming opportunities, and taught the kids a great game that involved balancing on the edge of the raft while he spun it in circles. (Oh, and he knew to hide the cookies at dinner until everyone had eaten their sandwiches and salad.)

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The family float trip covers over eight and a half miles of river, stopping for a dinner of sandwiches (which guests can fix for themselves from an array of cold cuts, veggies, and condiments), pasta salad and salsa and chips (made fresh daily), cookies, lemonade, and water. The entire experience was very peaceful; I don’t know whether it was the time of evening our trip departed or just luck, but we were the only raft on the water through miles of quiet twists and turns, lovely green river banks, and great views. It was the perfect length and rafting level for families with young kids in tow (minimum age is five), and yet was still entertaining for my 12 and nine year olds. If everyone in your party is over age six, the Zoar Gap tour, with a minimum age of seven, might be an even better fit. It covers a different section of the same river, and adds more white water elements.

There’s no need to bring anything with you; Zoar suggests locking valuables in your car, then holds your keys for you in a lock box to prevent losing them to the river. I brought my water-resistant camera with me (at my own risk), and in hindsight, would have dressed the kids in long-sleeved shirts or sweatshirts under their floatation devices (which they could have taken off if needed), because after swimming in the Deerfield, they did get a bit chilled. Other than that, we needed nothing but sunglasses, sunscreen, and swimming attire or shorts and t-shirts.

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Directions: Zoar Outdoor is located at 7 Main Street, Charlemont, MA. From I-91, take the Greenfield exit (26), then exit onto MA-2 Mohawk Trail. Follow MA-2 approximately 17 miles to Zoar.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced the Deerfield River as guests of Zoar Outdoor. While we appreciate their hospitality, this compensation came with no expectation of a positive review. We have a partnership with Hotels.com, which allows us to keep our activity reviews front and center.

The wonders of Wall Drug, South Dakota (in photos)

Have you stopped at Wall Drug, in Wall, South Dakota? If you’ve driven along I-90 in either direction, even hundreds of miles out, you probably have stopped. This fantastical roadside pit stop is absolutely worth a stop, or even a detour, to explore with the kids.

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I was lucky enough to meet the third and fourth generation owners of Wall Drug, which is still owned by the original Hustead family. The story of how this sprawling place came to be is as uplifting as the place itself: in the 1930’s, when Wall Drug was the very humble, one-room Hustead Drug Store owned by Ted and Dorothy Hustead, customers were scarce, due to the Depression and drought. Faced with closing their doors, Dorothy Hustead came up with the idea of offering free ice water to passing travelers. She put up a few roadside signs, and the rest is history. Today, roadside advertising is still the #1 way customers find Wall Drug, and trust me, these signs are abundant…and entertaining on the interstate.

wall-drug entrance

You can still get free ice water at Wall Drug, and coffee is still five cents. What else is there? Um…everything? There are departments for Western wear, jewelry, toys, clothing, candy, art, and more. There’s still a working pharmacy, plus a pharmacy museum of sorts, a mining attraction for kids, a play area with water features, a shooting gallery, an arcade, multiple dining options, a soda fountain, and thousands of historic photos of South Dakota history. Prepare to get lost a few times! Honestly, Wall Drug defies explanation, so we’ll show you the place in pictures.

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Wondering where to stay while in Wall? Head to Ann’s Motel. This charming throwback to bygone eras of road trip travel lodges is clean and affordable, and best of all, Ann still checks you in with a real key and a friendly smile. Ann’s is just down the street from Wall Drug.

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While in the Wall area, definitely head to Badlands National Park!

Black Hills mountain biking for families

The Black Hills of South Dakota never fail to surprise…and impress. This western region of South Dakota is known as the home of Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, and of course, for its Wild West history (Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane called the Black Hills home). More recently, however, the Black Hills have been recognized as an emerging mountain biking region, known for its amazing range of trails that includes everything from accessible paths and great beginner terrain for families to more advanced trails for avid bikers . Here’s where to go…

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Mickelson Trail

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Families looking to add some mountain biking to their Black Hills road trip or vacation should start with the Mickelson Trail. This 109-mile trail curves through several Black Hills historic towns, including Deadwood, Hill City, and Custer. It’s a rail trail, which means it follows an abandoned railroad line, and is therefore a good grade for family riding (in other words, it’s not too steep).

There are 15 trailheads at which you can start your rail trail journey, assuming you’re not going to do the whole thing. Along the way, trestle bridges and rail tunnels add fun for kids, and the scenery is always gorgeous as the trail cuts through the limestone and granite of the Black Hills. It’s easy to follow the Mickelson Trail for a full day, stopping for a nice lunch and some sightseeing en route.

We recommend: Take the section from Hill City to Custer, which is about 15 miles from the Burlington Northern Hill City trailhead to the Harbach Park trailhead in Custer. This map is a useful planning tool.

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Alkali Creek Trail

Families who have intermediate riders and are ready for a bigger challenge than the flat Mickelson Trail may want to try Alkali Creek. The entire length of the trail is 18 miles, but there’s not too much elevation gain. From I-90, you’ll want to take exit 34 near Black Hills National Cemetery, turn right (north) and follow the road for about one mile. For a bigger challenge, try Terry Peak, which is located past Deadwood by the Terry Peak Ski Area in the town of Lead.

Hanson-Larsen Memorial Park Trail Network

For families with beginner and intermediate riders who want a trail system that has a bit of everything, and is based close to Rapid City, the Hanson-Larsen network is located just outside town and offers great views of the city. Head up Skyline Drive to find it (park at Founders Park on Omaha), and be ready for some elevation gains and losses. The circuits are short however, allowing families to tailor the length of the ride to suit. Note: The Skyline Drive Trail is located just past Dinosaur Park in Rapid City, but its trails are more advanced.

Where To Rent Bikes

For families not road tripping with their mountain bikes, there are numerous places to rent bikes while on vacation in the Black Hills. We rented bikes at Rabbit Bicycles in Hill City because this shop is directly on the Mickelson Trail, making it very easy to go from renting to riding. They also offer a shuttle service for families who want to go one way on the trail and then be transported back.

Alternatives certainly exist: If you think you’ll want to ride bikes in many locations, and are flying or driving into Rapid City, consider renting at ACME Bicycles or Black Hills Bicycles in Rapid City. We also noted rental locations in Spearfish and Sturgis.

Tip: Make sure everyone in the family has a properly fitting helmet while riding, as well as shin guards and arm pads for single track (not necessary on the Mickelson Trail). We recommend G-Form pads.

This post was written in partnership with Travel South Dakota, and based on my personal experience in the Black Hills region. Interested in traveling to South Dakota? Get a free travel guide!

Main Salmon River rafting trip with O.A.R.S.

The best—and nearly only—way to experience the 2.3 million acre Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness of Central Idaho is by whitewater raft down the Main Salmon River. The route along the Wild and Scenic section of the Salmon runs 80 miles and requires extensive whitewater experience and permits…or can be booked with an adventure outfitter like O.A.R.S.

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Why choose the Main Salmon with O.A.R.S.?

The O.A.R.S. Main Salmon River trip takes five nights, six days and delivers families through pristine high desert and forested wilderness. Multiple outfitters take this course, but we recommend O.A.R.S for many reasons, including stellar guest service, the comfort of good food and camps, and river expertise.

The Salmon River remains undammed for over 400 miles, and the Frank Church Wilderness is alive with prehistoric, native, and pioneering history, as well as wildlife. O.A.R.S. guides are knowledgeable about both, able to educate guests along the way with nature talks, history lessons, and wildlife spotting. If that’s not enough for you, this O.A.R.S. itinerary employs no fewer than five modes of transportation down the river: guests can ride in an oar boat, dory, paddleboat, inflatable kayak (called a ducky), or stand-up paddle board (SUP).

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What to expect on the Main Salmon:

All five nights along the Main Salmon with O.A.R.S. are spent on sandy beach campsites along the river, with tents and sleeping bags and pads provided. Guests start the trip in McCall, Idaho, where a pre-trip meeting takes place the night before departure. This is the time to ask last-minute questions, get your dry bags to pack belongings in, and meet your trip leader. During our meeting, we met Trip Leader Diego, as well as the other guests on the trip. Diego gave us a weather report—our trip would be hot and dry—and final tips on packing—we’d need two water bottles each, plus lots of sun protection. Our trip included 11 guests total: my multigenerational family of two teens, myself, and my father, plus one more father and son, one mother with two sons, and one couple. In total, we had five kids ages 12-16 and six adults.

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The next morning, our trip started at 7 am with an amazing chartered flight from McCall to Salmon, Idaho in 2-8 passenger planes. We watched out the windows as the rugged peaks and mountain meadows passed below us, knowing we were essentially being deposited into our wilderness area. From Salmon, a rather brutally long bus ride took us to the put-in point along the river, where we were set to depart at the start of the Wild and Scenic section at Corn Creek. We stopped along the way of this two-hour ride at a small store where we could purchase any extra drinks we’d like on the trip. O.A.R.S. provides enough soda, wine, and beer for guests to have approximately two drinks per evening; extra is allowed in moderation. We could also grab any extra items we’d forgotten at this point, such as batteries, sunscreen, sunglasses, or water bottles. All extra drink purchases become communal unless requested otherwise.

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Once we arrived at Corn Creek, we met the rest of our guides who’d be joining us for our week on the Salmon. We had a great crew, as I always have with O.A.R.S.: guides Amber, Morris, and Prester, as well as college-aged gear guides (rowing only gear, not guests) Rose and Dakota. All are essential to the trip and all interact with the guests. We got dialed in on rafting safety (Day 1 of any trip includes multiple talks on protocol and safety) and were on the river before lunch.

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We rafted only an hour or so before stopping to eat on a sandy bank, during which we learned about dining protocol—hand washing, water bottle filling, and trash clean up—and were introduced to the inflatable kayak ‘duckies’. These solo-passenger rafts are popular but require just a bit of skill. Anyone wanting to raft the river in duckies needed to take a ‘swim test’ before we left the lunch spot. This test involves paddling the ducky in an eddy, purposely flipping it over, and getting oneself back in in deep water. This sounds intimidating, but with tips from the guides, everyone in our group who took the test, from the teens to the grandfather, passed.

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We rafted another three hours or so, navigating through our first rapids, Killum, Gunbarrel, and Rainer, before landing at our first night’s camp. Here, we learned all about camping protocol, including how to create a ‘fire line’ to off-load the boats of gear (everyone helps) to how to set up our tents and where to find our sleep kits (which included sleeping bags, tarps, and pillows). We also became acquainted with the ‘Unit’ at this point, sometimes called the ‘Groover’. This portable toilet system is required by all rafting parties on the river as part of the Leave No Trace principles followed. It takes some getting used to if you don’t spend a lot of time in the outdoors, but embrace the Unit: after all, it’s the only option.

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After setting up camp, we found ample time to play, swim, and get to know one another better through conversation over cold beers and sodas. Our guides surprised us with several beach toys brought out from the depths of the boats, including frisbee games and a fun washer game similar to horseshoes. A salmon dinner was followed by more community time around the ‘circle’ (of chairs), where adults conversed and kids brought out card games. Around 8 pm, the summer heat was broken by a spectacular thunderstorm and hail storm: we all dug out rain jackets and scurried to the sanctuary of our tents to wait it out. For most of us, this was the only night on the trip we didn’t sleep out under the stars and bright moon.

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The next morning, the coffee call came around 7 am, followed by breakfast of huckleberry pancakes, sausage, and fruit at 8 am. We packed up camp around 8:30, filled up our water bottles with filtered river water, and were back on the boats before 9 am. The next five days followed the same general routine: coffee call, breakfast, camp breakdown, rowing on the water interspersed with challenging rapids, hikes to historic points, or wildlife, lunch, more river time, arrival at camp, playtime both in the water and on the sand, appetizers and drinks, dinner, and community time. As guests, we set up our own tents and helped on and offload boats, but never cooked or planned any of the itinerary.

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Each day on the river brought something new: on Day 2, we floated past a hot springs (and would have stopped had the temperature not been nudging 100 degrees) and stopped to look at Native American petroglyphs, on Day 3, we toured a historic cabin and ranch once owned by river legend Jim Moore, on Day 4, we stopped at hermit Buckskin Bill’s homestead and store, and on Day 5, we hiked a short distance to an old-growth yew tree grove and the foundation of a Chinese mining claim.

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Each morning and at each lunch break, guests can decide which type of raft to ride in or paddle: I liked to alternate between the paddle raft, where guests help paddle, the dory, which sits higher on the water and cuts through rapids with precision and grace, and the duckies, which takes more concentration with bigger rewards. When we needed a break, we could sit back and relax on a gear boat, rowed by guide Morris, who regaled his passengers with stories and tales. The kids gravitated to Morris’ boat as well, but mostly clamored for time in the duckies and on the SUP (allowed in small rapids and riffles, after kids have proven themselves).

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Evening entertainment took on varied forms as well: we played games of ultimate frisbee and card games, played in the water during kayak wars and SUP practice, and even made a ‘raft slide’ of an overturned paddle raft. During two magical evenings, we were treated to talks by the campfire circle on local history and conservation by geology teacher turned river guide Morris. Meals were excellent and varied from Day 1 to Day 6, and to a person, our six guides were hard working, fun-loving, and responsible.

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By Day 3, we’d hit a stride of river life that truly fell into pace with the current. Without screens or smart phones, we slowly felt the tethers of day-to-day demands fall away, to be replaced by a quiet rhythm of sunshine, river water, and fun companionship. By Day 6, we felt so acclimated to river life it felt odd to return to civilization: trucks on the road overlooking the river on the last day felt jarring after so many days without the sound of them and day trippers felt like intruders. While we were ready for a shower and to call loved ones with news of our trip, we never felt uncomfortable on the river: with some much time in the water, we didn’t feel as dirty or grimy as we might backpacking.

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Tips for a successful O.A.R.S. trip:

  1. Remember you’re in a communal environment. This means helping out with gear, respecting rules and people, being considerate (please don’t cut in line at lunch or take the best tent site every night), and acting to keep rafts and camp clean and safe. O.A.R.S. makes sure a hand-washing station (a rather ingenious bucket and hose contraption) is available before every meal and at every ‘bathroom’ location, and everyone is expected to use it to keep germs at a minimum in such an intimate environment. Parents, don’t just do all the above yourself; teach kids to follow rules and be considerate as well.
  2. Expect to follow Leave No Trace guidelines. This means all trash, even ‘micro-trash’ such as table scraps, must be disposed of in the designated containers, because everything packed in will be packed out. It also means you’ll be expected to follow Unit protocol, which does have some rules involved. For instance, liquid waste goes in a different place than solid waste, as does toilet paper and feminine products. Yes, this is gross to think about, but the sooner you leave your inhibitions behind, the better. The Unit is always set up in a discrete place at camp, and while it’s odd to go to the restroom in a place without walls or a door, it affords a beautiful view, and there’s a system to ensure some privacy. Wondering what the ‘Unit’ is, exactly? It’s a metal bucket with a toilet seat attached, which can be seated shut between camps. Does it smell? Not as badly as a pit toilet or port-a-potty. Is plumbing preferable? Sure, but it’s better than being the cause of waste left in camps that will be used by numerous rafters all summer.
  3. Follow the packing list. Our trip was a hot one, with days over 100 degrees, but I was still glad to have my rain gear when we encountered that thunderstorm. And you never know when the weather will change, so you can bet I had my fleece and base layers at the bottom of my bag, albeit untouched.
  4. Don’t expect showers, cell service, or cold water in your water bottle, though you can expect excellent, fresh food and cold drinks at the end of each day. It’s amazing what can be packed into the O.A.R.S. coolers: we had steak on our last night, and fresh nectarines our last morning.
  5. Bring two sun hats and two pairs of sunglasses each. Sunglasses get lost or broken easily, and sun hats are just to precious to be without. Sunscreen is crucial as well, of course.
  6. Don’t expect O.A.R.S. to control the weather or the river (though you can expect them to navigate it with expertise). The natural elements of any river trip must be respected.
  7. Expect rules. There’s an inherent danger in any whitewater rafting trip, and while many freedoms are afforded on the water and in camp, rules are in place for a reason. We found that when we proved to our guides that our teens would listen to and respect rules right from Day 1, more privileges were granted. We love rafting with O.A.R.S. because we feel safe, but not coddled. Our boys were able to push themselves on the water, rafting every rapid in duckies if they wished, and some on the SUP. They were able to explore around camp and even sleep solo on a beach around the corner from us. They loved the freedoms they’d earned.

oars-camp

A comparison of O.A.R.S. Salmon River to O.A.R.S. Rogue River:

Both river trips are excellent family trips, though the Salmon requires kids be age 12 and up in high water (spring and early summer). Both offer 5-6 day trips filled with incredible scenery, though the Salmon is largely high desert and canyon while the Rogue is more heavily forested with more dramatic canyon walls. We found the same level of guide service on both rivers.

On the Salmon, the trip begins with the scenic flight from McCall, a bonus treat, and includes rafting on dories in addition to rafts. Duckies and SUPs can be found on both rivers.

Ready to book? Get more generalized O.A.R.S. booking tips and read our Rogue River report.

As we disclose whenever applicable, we experienced the Salmon River as guests of O.A.R.S., for the purpose of review.

Olympic National Park with kids

Tucked away on Washington state’s Olympic Peninsula, Olympic National Park offers the best of not one, not two, but three worlds: temperate rain forest, ocean beaches, and mountain peaks await visitors to this unique park. No matter the season, families can escape metropolitan life in only a matter of several hours (approximately three from Portland and Seattle) and find themselves hiking between moss-covered Sitka spruce, beach-combing along wild coastline, and even skiing.

During a time when many vacations are not possible, national parks offer the ability to safely social distance, especially if families road trip to their destination. Hotels.com asked me to share my favorite activities and tips for exploring this Olympic National Park, so start here as you plan a safe and responsible vacation.

Quinault

Park Overview: Olympic National Park is unique not only in its ecosystem, but in its geography; the majority of the interior of the park is free of roads (great for backpackers and wildlife, not so great for traveling families). In order to see the park, visitors must skirt the boundary on Highway 101, which is certainly scenic, but makes for quite a bit of car time. We suggest making a ‘home base’ on either end of the park, staying in Lake Quinault Lodge on the southern end or Port Angeles on the northern end. (If you have time, do both!) We chose the southern end for its rare rain forests, and saved the drive through the length of the park for another trip.

Where to stay: Lake Quinault Lodge sits on national park land just past the southern entrance to the park, its back porch and lawn leading straight to the shores of beautiful Lake Quinault. We love this lodge for its rustic yet elegant charm, kid-friendly features such as croquet sets, board games, and even an indoor pool, and proximity to incredible hiking in the Quinault Rain Forest (one of only three temperate rain forests in the world).

Other nearby accommodations include the park’s additional lodges, and hotel options along Highway 101 along the peninsula. The Log Cabin Resort on Lake Crescent is rustic but the most budget and kid-friendly, and Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort is where to go for a cozy getaway. Kalaloch Lodge is a no-frills lodge right on the ocean, and kids love it…just know that many times of the year, you’re not protected from wind and storms coming on off the Pacific.

Quinault

What to do: Trust me, you won’t be bored! In the Quinault Rain Forest area, families can enjoy many day hikes under three miles in length that hold kids’ attention as they weave through jungle-like forests, follow ice-cold streams, and end in crashing waterfalls. Our favorites are the Maple Glade and Cascading Terraces trails, both starting right across the street from Lake Quinault Lodge at the ranger station.

Further north (back on Highway 101), kids will want to stop to explore any of the short, forested paths from the highway to the ocean near Kalaloch, all of which open out upon the wide, long-stretching beaches along this part of the coast. (Look for the huge, wind-blown trees barely hanging onto the ocean cliff-sides…their exposed roots make for great jungle gyms!)

Olympic beaches

From Kalaloch, continue north on Highway 101 to the turnoff for the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center (15 miles further on Upper Hoh Road). The center is only open seasonally, but families will find excellent picnic areas and self-guided hikes through some of the most dramatic rain forest yet! Check out the Hall of Mosses for a good taste of this terrain that even preschoolers can hike.

Extra Tip: for a good resource on all area hikes, click here!

hoh rain forest

A word on Twilight Territory: If you have a tween or teen in the car itching to see Cullen and Quileute country (or just admit it…it’s you, isn’t it?) the town of Forks is just 10 minutes further up Highway 101 from the turn-off to the Hoh Rain Forest. You’ll be tempted to make the detour, but trust us, it’s not worth it unless you’re heading in that direction anyway (or like cheesy souvenir shops and the like). If you’re not continuing further north but simply must make the trek (I understand, I really do), do the rest of your crew a favor and drop them off at scenic Ruby Beach, a national park site just past Kalaloch. The kids will have much more fun running on this beautiful beach, climbing its sea stacks, and playing in the creek that runs from forest to surf. And after you’ve driven through Forks, continue on to La Push’s First and Second beaches…they really are lovely.

Check out all we loved about Olympic National Park and Lake Quinault Lodge on the Pit Stops for Kids’ Kid Cam:

NOTE: As travel today remains uncertain, please keep your safety and the safety of others in mind at all times. If you are comfortable with traveling, please travel responsibly and within regulation as any travel is at your own risk.

If you do decide to travel at this time, here are our recommendations:

  • Wear a face mask. 
  • Bring hand sanitizer and wash your hands on a regular basis.
  • Check official websites before your trip for the latest updates on policies, closures and status of local businesses.
  • Book a hotel with free cancellation in case you need to change your plans at the last minute.

American Colonial and Revolutionary History Road Trip

Touring Boston, Philadelphia, and Virginia with kids!

Looking for a ready-made American history road trip itinerary? We’ve got it! This itinerary starts in Boston, MA and ends in Williamsburg, Virginia, and hit highlights of American colonial and Revolutionary history. Civil War history can be added, as well!

paul-revere-freedom trail

Days 1-3:

Start your trip in historic Boston. Walk the Freedom Trail, visit Faneuil Hall, and see Old Ironsides. Older kids will love seeing Paul Revere’s house and the historic cemetery.

Where to stay: be part of history when sleeping in the Custom House building, which is now operated by Marriott Vacation Club.

Days 4-6:

Drive down the Eastern Seaboard to Philadelphia to continue your Revolutionary history. In Philly, see where America began in Independence Hall where the Declaration of Independence was signed. Tour the Constitution Center, see the Liberty Bell, and visit the site of Ben Franklin’s home and offices.

Where to stay: Hotel Monaco Philly is located directly across the street from Independence Hall. Need we say more? 

valley-forge

Day 7:

Head out of Philly and stop at Valley Forge, PA. Spend half a day on the self-guided auto tour of Washington’s winter camp, including his officer’s quarters and many bunkhouses of enlisted men. In the afternoon, drive either to Gettysburg, PA to learn about the Civil War battle (plan to stay two days), or take the long road trip down to Williamsburg, VA.

colonial-williamsburg-with-kids

Day 8-10:

Spend three days touring Colonial Revolutionary City in Williamsburg, VA. Take the time to visit the various shops and tradesmen, eat in the pubs, and book an evening tour or two. Definitely walk from the Visitor’s Center to Great Hopes Plantation, and play RevQuest if you have older kids or teens.

Where to stay: Williamsburg Woodlands is within walking and shuttle distance of Revolutionary City, plus includes a splash play area, mini golf, and a pool. 

Day 11:

Devote one full day to touring Jamestown, VA. Located adjacent to Williamsburg, this original site of the Jamestown Settlement has two parts: the original national historic site, where kids can see ongoing excavation in progress, and the recreated historic settlement and fort. Take time to tour the museum as well!

colonial-american-history

 

If there’s time, round out your historic road trip with a visit to Washington DC to see the actual Declaration of Independence and the flag that inspired the Star Spangled Banner.

Black Hills Road Trip Itinerary: Exploring South Dakota’s Wild Side

When families ask me where they can find outdoor adventure, beautiful scenery, American history, and affordable accommodations, the Black Hills of South Dakota are at the top of my list. The first time I visited the Black Hills, I was blown away, and I feel just as passionate about this family-friendly destination today. Located on the western end of the state, the Black Hills are within easy driving distance of Rapid City, or can be accessed via I-90 on a cross-country road trip.

south dakota road trip

Black Hills Road Trip Itinerary

From Rapid City, your Black Hills road trip should take you about a week, though families could of course take longer if desired. It’s easy to tent or RV camp in the area during the summer months, but a nice aspect of the Black Hills is the availability of affordable travel lodges, roadside motels, and cabins.

needles-highway

 

Start By Exploring Wild West Towns

  • Day 1-2: Drive about a hour from Rapid City to Deadwood, home of Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, and Seth Bullock. Parents, you may have seen the HBO show by the same name. Deadwood doesn’t disappoint, with a historic downtown and multiple museums. Stroll the main street, stopping at Saloon 10, where Wild Bill was shot to death by Jack McCall more than a century ago. Kids will enjoy the sawdust on the floor and the historical photos on the walls, and the saloon is open to minors until late evening. Families can also visit the cemetery where Calamity Jane and the others are buried. Stay at any number of affordable Deadwood hotels, augmenting your history tour with some outdoor recreation on the nearby Mickelson Trail, a gravel-paved bike path and rail trail that winds from Deadwood 109 miles through the Black Hills. Read more about Deadwood activities for families.
  • Day 3: From Deadwood, drive south on Highway 385 to Keystone. This town is best known as the gateway to Mount Rushmore, and as such, is more touristy than historic. Instead of staying the night here, stop to enjoy a few family-friendly activities, like the Rushmore Tramway Adventures, then spend a few hours of the day at Mount Rushmore National Memorial. In the evening, drive on to the small Wild West town of Custer.

deadwood shelby bell

  • Day 4: Families will find lots to do in Custer, starting with the downtown area’s historic buildings and shops. Eat at the Purple Pie Place or Black Hills Burger and Bun (Tripadvisor’s #1 Burger joint in the entire US in 2014, #2 in 2015). For outdoor adventure, 3,000 miles of ATV trails crisscross the Black Hills, and Black Hills ATV Adventures can guide you along some of them just outside of Custer. The Mickelson Trail also goes through Custer and nearby Hill City. Hill City is a good place to rent bikes for the trail for a full or half-day adventure. Stay the night at either Custer Gulch Resort outside of town, or more centrally located Rock Crest Lodge. Read more about Custer activities for families.

Step Into Outdoor Adventure

  • Day 5: Dedicate this day to exploring Custer State Park, which many believe to be worthy of national park status. This massive park deserves at least two days of your time. It can be accessed from Custer, allowing you to stay in town, or families can camp or stay in cabins within the park. Begin with an overview of the park via the Needles Highway Scenic Drive (part of the Peter Norbeck National Scenic Byway). Kids will love going through rock wall tunnels and around hairpin turns (take it slow!). Keep your eye out for mountain goats and bison along the drive. Next, check out one of the lakes in the park for some water recreation; Sylvan Lake rents watercraft and has a family-friendly swimming area. After getting some energy out, take the Wildlife Loop Road to see the buffalo corrals and prairie dog town at the other end of the park.
  • Day 6: The next day, head out on a few hikes. Sturdy hikers will want to tackle Black Elk Peak (formerly Harney Peak), a strenuous seven-mile round trip hike to a lookout tower with exceptional views. The less ambitious can try Cathedral Spires (only three miles round trip) or Badger Clark Historic Trail, which gives an overview of the human history of the park. Read more about Custer State Park.

visit south dakota

End In Rapid City

Rapid City is a fun, small city worth exploring for a day in its own right. It has a recently renovated downtown area, fun eateries, and inventive and artsy shops. There’s even a family-friendly pub and winery in a firehouse!

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This post was written in partnership with Travel South Dakota. Get more Black Hills travel ideas here.