Grown Up Getaway: Miami beyond the beaches

Maybe you’ve ‘done’ South Beach. Or maybe, you remember the Miami of the ‘80s and ‘90s, when South Beach defined the city. Whether beachside clubbing and hot days on the sand are not for you, or whether you’re ready for something different, check out Miami beyond the beaches for your next Grown-Up Getaway. Here’s your ready-made itinerary for your Grown Up Getaway Miami:

miami

Start in the artsy Wynwood neighborhood:

Wynwood perhaps defines the ‘new’ Miami better than any other single neighborhood. An eclectic mix of art galleries, trendy bars and restaurants, and boutiques, Wynwood may have become gentrified from the time of its artistic roots, but it’s still a great representation of the mixing pot that is Miami.

rust wynwood

Start with a stroll through the neighborhood to appreciate the street art…don’t worry, you can’t miss it. Wynwood Walls sits at the epicenter of the street art movement, with commissioned murals across several blocks. Enter at 2520 NW 2nd Avenue, where you’ll see arched gates into the artwork. (It’s free to enter.) Between murals, a few galleries are open within Wynwood Walls, as well as a juice bar and a few other small cafes.

wynwood-walls

After seeing the ‘official’ art of Wynwood, walk through the next few blocks, wandering at will and popping into additional galleries and boutiques and checking out more unofficial murals, some as impressive as the commissioned work.

Grab a pre-dinner drink at Alter, which has an inviting outdoor bar just adjacent to the small dining room. Make a reservation to eat here to taste celebrated chef Brad Kilgore’s inventive pre-fixed menu (he also creates his magic at Brava, home of one of Miami’s hardest-to-get reservations).

wynwood

If you’re looking for a more casual meal, head instead to Rust, a hole-in-the-wall on 2nd Ave in the most gentrified of ways. Located down an open-air marketplace hallway in the heart of Wynwood, Rust is owned by a Uruguayan transplant who has made Miami his home. Featuring a globally inspired menu that includes everything from chivitos (Uruguayan sandwiches) and Spanish tortillas to ceviche, Rust is a place to linger on the patio with a sangria and tapas to share.

Spend your next day in Museum Park:

Ten years ago, Miami’s downtown became a ghost town after work hours. With the addition of the Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts of Miami-Dade County located within easy walking distance to Museum Park (featuring the stellar Perez Art Museum Miami and brand new Frost Museum of Science), that all changed. Now a hub for performing and visual arts lovers, this region of Miami is vibrant day and night.

arsht center

During the day, linger during the morning at the Perez (PAMM), where two floors of permanent and featured art exhibits are on display. Make sure to leave time to stroll outside, where Adirondack chairs and hanging hammock chairs invite you to sit a while to enjoy the ocean breezes and views of the bay. Grab a coffee at the museum cafe, or better yet, head over the the Arsht Center to enjoy lunch at the cafe at Books and Books. A Miami institution, Books and Books is located in their original Sears storefront, and features a farm-to-table style menu upstairs from the bookseller.

perez art

Check out the Frost Museum of Science (yes, even if you’ve left the kids at home). This brand new museum  is actually divided into four buildings: the Frost Planetarium, Aquarium, and North and West Wings, where you can learn about the core science behind living systems, the solar system and known universe, the physics of flight, light and lasers, the biology of the human body and mind, and much more. If nothing else, see a show at the planetarium (or come back at night to see it set to contemporary music such as Pink Floyd or U2.

frost science center

In the evening, see a performance at the Arsht Center. This massive and beautiful center features visual art embedded in the design and architecture, and offers space for both large-scale musical theater performances, ballet and symphony, and intimate plays and dance performances. I was lucky enough to see The Death of Harry Houdini in the small black box theater, and was blown away.

museum park

Note: if you take Uber to the theater, they’ve made it easier for you to identify where you’ll meet your driver with pre-set stations…otherwise, the sprawling center spread over several city blocks proves problematic.

Do some shopping:

For the most impressive shopping malls, you’ll want to go to Brickell City Center (or farther out, Coconut Grove). The City Center is a LEAD certified building with an amazing (and beautiful) eco-design feature: the climate ribbon spans over the top of the open air mall, collecting rain water for reuse and simultaneously managing climate control. (It truly feels cooler in the mall than just outside.)

brickell city center

You’ll find no shortage of shopping opportunities in City Center (Saks is the flagship), but perhaps the bigger attraction are the bars and restaurants, as well as the luxury movie theater. We recommend a movie followed by drinks on the rooftop bar, Sugar.

Where to stay and how to get around:

Miami, unfortunately, isn’t a pedestrian friendly city, nor does it boast great public transportation, but it IS improving. If you stay in the Brickell area, you can easily transit between City Center and Museum Park by MetroMover, the free metro line that’s located downtown. Otherwise, you’ll need a car, which is why I recommend a Midtown hotel. You’ll be within about 10 minutes’ drive from Wynwood, Brickell, and Museum Park, all without getting on a freeway (and thus avoiding traffic).

grown up getaway miami

The Hampton Inn & Suites Miami Midtown is a brand new hotel located in Midtown that’s quite frankly the nicest Hampton I’ve ever stayed in. See our review here. Valet parking is reasonable (or better yet, use Uber in Miami) and the stay includes an upscale complimentary breakfast and nice outdoor pool with lounging areas. You get a lot for your money here, and you won’t be in your room much, anyway. There’s another location in Brickell, which would be a good choice if that’s the neighborhood you decide to focus on, but you’ll save money staying in Midtown. Finding travel deals is now simple and can be done in a jiffy especially when you want to cut down your budget.’

If you DO bring the kids:

Check the Arsht Center website for options of kid-friendly shows…there are many! The Frost Museum of Science is a home run, and the Perez Art Museum offers kid programming every first Thursday, as well as special programs for the family. All the dining options listed above, with perhaps the exception of Alter, are appropriate for kids of any age.

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

Grown-Up Getaway: Downtown Las Vegas and Fremont Street

If your usual Las Vegas stomping grounds include only the Strip, or if, like me, you think ‘been there, done that’ when it comes to a Las Vegas getaway, a stay (or even just a day) in historic downtown Las Vegas may be just what you need to see this city from a different perspective.

downtown-las-vegas

Downtown Las Vegas is located toward the ‘top’ of the Strip, above the Stratosphere, and retains some of the original roots that made Vegas such a glittering, fun-loving city in the 1950s and 60s. We recommend spending time here only during an adults-only Las Vegas getaway, as its authenticity includes more than a dash of grittiness.

What to do during the day:

You’ll want to center your downtown Las Vegas day on and around Fremont Street. Head to the Downtown Container Park, located at 707 Fremont, and check out this artsy and interesting outdoor shopping and dining area created out of shipping containers and box cars. You’ll see a huge praying mantis at the entrance (an art piece, perhaps?) and layers of fun boutiques, coffee houses, and bistros in the area surrounding shaded seating. Expect good music, a clean, friendly atmosphere, and even a big playground for kids.

container-park

Next, go to the Mob Museum, located at 300 Stewart, just a few blocks from the Container Park. Built as a nod to Vegas’ mobster past, the Mob Museum includes true stories of organized crime, including crimes in Vegas history. It’s put together in an interactive, immersive way, with several levels of exhibits and displays.

Where to eat:

In the daytime, head to the Commissary, located at the bottom of the Downtown Grand, for great breakfast burritos, espresso, and sandwiches. Do yourself a favor and skip the hotel buffets at old-school casinos like the Golden Nugget or the Fremont. In the evening, try Itsy Bitsy, located at 150 Las Vegas Blvd. This ramen house offers up steaming bowls of ramen noodles and rice dishes, served alongside amazing sake. Try the cucumber sake for a refreshing, light drink.

itsy-bitsy-vegas

For an after-dinner cocktail or two, avoid the ‘street’ drinks in plastic cups found along Fremont in favor of the Griffin bar, which surprises with a cozy English pub interior (with a pretty bare bones exterior). As an alternative, the Downtown Grand’s Art Bar, located on the ground floor, has great drink specials and a bright, tasteful, and airy atmosphere.

What to do at night:

downtown-vegas

You won’t find world-class shows or impressive hotel interiors downtown, but you will find a slice of Vegas culture unlike even that you see on the Strip. The Fremont Street Experience includes the massive, bright, neon-canopied pedestrian-only street where zip-liners fly overhead, bands play live, and casinos beckon on every corner. In the street, the people watching is fantastic; expect to see everything from half-naked people to open drunkenness to beggars and street performers (both talented and untalented). As noted above, this is not an atmosphere for children, but can certainly be a fun culture shock for an adult getaway.

Zip-lining above the crowd will set you back $20 per person for the lower, slower line and $40 for the high line. Plan to buy tickets at the start of the Fremont Street (where the covered area starts) well before you want to zip…the wait time tends to be about an hour. You don’t have to wait in line; rather, you’re issued a time to return.

Live music is generally fun and loud, and on the hour, the entire neon ceiling of the Fremont Street Experience comes alive with images and video to coordinate with music. For a non-gaming, non-partying crowd, one evening (or even one hour) on Fremont will be enough, but I can certainly see the authentic appeal for the wilder set.

Heading to Vegas with the kids? Check out our guide to Las Vegas with kids, our top kid-friendly attractions, and where we think you should stay.

 

 

What to do in Lubbock Texas with kids

We highly recommend the dining and winery scene in Lubbock Texas for couples and friends on a Grown-Up Getaway, but what if you have the kids in tow? There’s a lot to do in Lubbock with the kids, from learning about ranching history to learning about the musical legacy of one of Lubbock’s most famous teens, Buddy Holly. Here’s what not to miss, plus where to eat with kids in this fun college town in West Texas.

National Ranching Heritage Center:

This center, which was built in public-private cooperation with Texas Tech University and the Ranching Heritage Association, is free to the public, with a 19-acre historical park outdoors and several galleries indoors. You’ll want to dedicate most of your visit to the outdoor section (which closes at 4 pm daily). I loved that it encourages families to walk and explore, guiding you on a chronological tour of Texas ranching homes and structures from the late 1700s to the 1950s.

You’ll want a few hours to tour the houses, which you can peek into and view, and the windmills, stables, outbuildings and locomotives that tell Texas’ ranching history. It’s all well-persevered and well done, and indoors, you can find a few more modest exhibits (an exhibit on cowboy boots was my favorite) and a few temporary visits (I was lucky enough to be there when the Lonesome Dove exhibit was on loan, with artifacts and directing notes from the celebrated mini-series).

All this said, there is danger of getting a one-sided history of Texas ranching, as the signage and displays in the 19-acre historical park details white settler and rancher history while giving far less attention to the Comanche history that’s tied to it. We were lucky enough to tour the grounds with someone knowledgeable in all Texas history, and I do feel that visitors are denied some knowledge of that violent time period from the perspective of the Native American.

Buddy Holly Center:

While not huge, the Buddy Holly Center, located near downtown Lubbock, provides a good overview of the tragically short life of singer and songwriter Buddy Holly with a main gallery with useful timelines of popular music and artifacts, a short film (helpful if your kids don’t know who Buddy Holly was upon arrival here) and an adjacent living history exhibit, the house of Holly’s friend and band member Jerry Allison, recreated to the period. The only thing I think the center was lacking: some of Holly’s better-known music playing as you toured. It’s $8 admission, $5 for kids, and if you’re interested in paying your respects, Holly is buried in the cemetery nearby (as a Buddy Holly Center attendant for directions).

Note: In spring of 2020, a huge downtown development project, the Buddy Holly Hall of Performing Arts & Sciences, will open across from the civic center, offering theater space and event space with the capacity to host Broadway productions and world-class musical guests.

Evie Mae’s Pit Barbecue:

Both a lunch hot spot and an attraction in its own right, Evie Mae’s Pit Barbecue  is THE place to go for lunch. It will be packed, but the line goes quickly. Order at the counter (combo plates start around $9, or you can order sandwiches starting at $8). They’re best known for their amazing beef brisket, but you can also sample sausage, ribs, pulled pork, and chipped beef. For me, the sides are just as important, and at Evie Mae’s, you can choose from cheesy grits, green beans, pinto beans, potato salad, and more. Definitely get the cornbread, and utilize the free toppings bar with jalapenos, onions, pickles and the like. And I saved the best for last: in the center of the restaurant, an iced galvanized bucket keeps FREE beer cool. Yes, free.

The owners of Evie Mae’s have been at their current location since 2016, and orginally got into barbeque simply because they wanted to weld a smoker…then needed to learn how to use it. They use only prime Angus beef, and all items are gluten-free, except for the white bread and buns. My only disappointment: they use styrofoam cups and plates. Here’s hoping they make a switch soon.

Cast Iron Grill:

For breakfast, go to the Lubbock joint all the locals love: Cast Iron Grill. This lively breakfast spot is casual, quick, and filling, run by a woman who takes her Christian faith seriously (you’ll note all the religious sayings on the walls right away). If you’re not religious, however, as I’m not, don’t let that stop you from enjoying the Cast Iron’s Grill’s famous pies at lunch or their huge breakfast platters in the morning. Expect basic coffee, friendly waitstaff (all wearing cowboy boots) and a loud, fun atmosphere.

Summer in Big Bear with kids

The town of Big Bear Lake may be Southern California’s favorite snow destination in winter, but this small community has a lot going on in summer, too. An easy drive from San Bernardino, CA, Big Bear is at a respectable 6752 feet in elevation, making it a legit mountain destination for families, with pine forests, wildlife, and plenty of hiking and biking. Here’s what to do and where to stay in summer in Big Bear with kids.

big-bear-in-summer

Spend time on the lake with a local:

Big Bear may be a tourist town, but it’s also a thriving year-round community that draws unique individuals to the mountain lifestyle. You can often find these residents at local watering holes (read on for a list), but the best way to tap into this great resource if you have kids in tow is to get out on the lake with Captain John. Captain John’s marina is located on the ‘quiet’ side of the lake in Fawnskin, right on North Shore Drive. He offers paddle boarding and boat rentals, but also guided tours of the lake in his own Duffy boat, which I highly recommend. Yes, you can sail with John himself, who has lived in Big Bear for decades. John is a wealth of knowledge about the area, and gives a great overview of the lake’s history in a way that will entertain everyone. Boat tours are approximately $20 per person, which is a great deal for what you get. Bonus: after or before your boat trip, play a round of frisbee golf on-site, for free!

captain-johns

Play on Snow Summit:

During winter, Snow Summit and Bear Mountain (now under the umbrella of Mammoth Mountain) provide a great place to teach kids how to ski. In summer, Snow Summit is the place for hiking, mountain biking, and chair lift rides. Lift tickets are available for single trips (for hiking down or simply eating a meal at the on-mountain restaurant), or available per day, for lift-served mountain biking.

Snow Summit has a full-service bike rental shop with Trek bikes designed specifically for single track mountain biking trails, which also rents out helmets and pads. Once on the lift, there are several gravity-based single track trails to choose from. Coming down the face of the mountain, the trails are intermediate and advanced (blue and black), but a green to blue option is available along Skyline (turning left at the top). If you’re a beginning mountain biker, get a lesson and ask about the skill builder park, a smaller track set up near the base area for practicing on terrain and features. Freeride and downhill bike rentals start at $68 for three hours for kids and $93 for adults (all day rentals also available), and lift tickets are $44 and $27 (child).

big-bear-lake

 

As an intermediate mountain biker, I loved the blue trails, both for the challenge of the terrain and the wooded, mountain setting. We stayed cool in the forest, and experienced mostly downhill with only a few climbs (all the better for stretching out the run). It took us the better part of an hour to come all the way down (with frequent breaks). Some of Snow Summit’s trails are actually ‘adopted’ from the forest service, which means they’re open to anyone to bike up and down without a lift ticket. If you have your own bikes with you and want a workout, ask for directions to the bottom of the forest service trails.

Hiking:

Downhill and uphill hiking are, of course, available at Snow Summit, but many additional options are easily accessible from Big Bear. The Wonderland Trail nature trail is only 1.5 miles (loop) with 20 posted stops.Use it as a self-guided tour to learn about the botany, geology and wildlife of this area. If you’re looking for longer trails, check this resource. If you have young kids, the Discovery Center is a great pit stop, with a nature ‘classroom’ of its own where kids can learn about animal species and ecology, plus an indoor area staffed with knowledgable volunteers. Note: this center is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

big-bear-lake

Big Bear Alpine Zoo:

I never recommend a zoo unless I’ve checked it out personally and feel it cares properly for its animals The Big Bear Alpine Zoo has a misleading name, because it’s actually a rescue center for animals who cannot live in the wild due to injury or other situations. The staff is caring and knowledgable, and the small zoo is filled with shaded, well-maintained enclosures with grizzly bears, black bears, dear, raccoons, bald eagles, mountain lions, wolves, foxes, and many other animals. Plan to spend about an hour here! Admission is $12 for adults and $9 for kids, and you can know it’s going to a good cause.

big-bear-alpine-zoo

Where to stay:

You can’t do Big Bear Lake justice in just a day. Plan to spend a long weekend in Big Bear with kids at The Lodge at Big Bear Lake. This hotel offers pretty standard rooms and a decent outdoor pool, but wins in our book because of the excellent made-to-order included breakfast at the attached restaurant. It’s also located in the heart of town, so families can easily walk to restaurants and shops.

big-bear-in-summer

Where to eat:

Like many small mountain towns, Big Bear Lake has many options for families. Throughout the walkable downtown core, you’ll find plenty of candy and ice cream shops, coffee shops, and restaurants. The best, according to us:

The Pines: for fine dining on the lake (date night, maybe?) The Pines takes great pride in its menu and has multiple specials per night. Locals tell us you could return many times before ever ordering the same thing twice. The Pines frequently has live music as well. 350 Alden Rd, Big Bear Lake

Big Bear Lake Brewing Company: This brewery is located right downtown and has indoor and outdoor seating. We recommend Mom and Dad order a beer flight to share, and everyone will love the burgers and salads. If the kids get restless, you can show them the brewing room (open to walk into). 40827 Stone, Big Bear Lake

Moonridge Coffee Company: Moonridge Coffee is located near the zoo, and is a charming and cozy coffee shop run by owners originally from Sisters, Oregon. 42646 Moonridge Rd, Big Bear Lake

big-bear-brewing

Grown-up bars recommended by local Captain John:

I promised to list a few watering holes recommended by Big Bear local and boat captain John. When you go on a boat tour, ask him for his recommendations yourself, but these are a few ideas he gave me. Bonus: Captain John plays music at many of these venues on various nights of the week, sometimes with his local friend and musician Art Harriman.

Whisky Dave’s: 40740 Village Dr, Big Bear Lake

Captain’s Anchorage: 42148 Moonridge Way, Big Bear Lake

Murray’s Saloon: 672 Cottage Ln, Big Bear Lake

Directions:

Big Bear Lake is easily accessible from all points in Southern California. It’s one hour from San Bernardino on Highway 330 to Highway 18.

Pin for later!

big-bear-weekend

As I disclose whenever applicable, I experienced Big Bear Lake as a guest of the destination, for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.

Santa Fe with kids: dining, shopping, and touring

When most parents think of Santa Fe, New Mexico, spas and art galleries come to mind. However, this small town in the high desert has its share of kid-friendly activities. Here where to go, where to eat, and where to shop if vacationing in Santa Fe with kids.

santa-fe-with-kids

Attractions:

There are a few must-sees in Santa Fe with kids. To start, you’ll want to tour the Plaza and Palace of the Governors with kids, which is located in the heart of downtown and within walking distance of most hotels. Historically a trading center, the Palace of the Governors features a shaded walkway filled daily with local artisans; the Native Americans here get their spot by lottery. Wares range from small handmade trinkets for a few dollars to $400 fired bowls and other pottery.

palace-of-the-governors

Also in the Plaza is the Five and Dime, a kitchy souvenir store filled top-to-bottom with fun gifts and foods. Be sure to head to the back of the store to try a Frito Pie; this Santa Fe treat is a bag of Fritos filled with chili, cheese, and toppings. Many other shops line the square, including Rippel, featuring authentic silver buckles and innovative hand-crafted jewelry, but even better for kids is the outdoor market area one block toward the Loretto Chapel and La Fonda Hotel on E. San Francisco: here you’ll find baskets of low-cost gems, necklaces, bracelets, and trinkets.

plaza-santa-fe

Canyon Road features over 100 of the world’s finest art galleries, but if your kids won’t last long in this environment (mine don’t!) head left of the Canyon Road entrance to the site of Fort Marcy and the Cross of the Martyrs. This regional park includes a short walkway up the hill to the site of the original fort from the 19th century, and offers a beautiful view of the city. Get your art fix by visiting the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, ideal for kids.

cross-of-the-martyrs

For adventure in the high desert, join Santa Fe Walkabouts for a 4×4 ride along historic Route 66 to see remnants from the Camino Real trading route and a fun drive to the bottom of a steep mesa.

Want to travel the US? Learn more about traveling to the US with ESTA.

Dining:

When choosing dining options in Santa Fe with kids, plan a meal at each of two restaurants, both located near downtown on Guadalupe Street. The Cowgirl Hall of Fame  is well-known as a local watering hole with nightly live entertainment, but this fun and funky restaurant is so much more. Head to the back of this meandering establishment to find an outdoor seating area in a courtyard featuring a full-sized children’s play structure, plus chalkboard walls and other toys.  Listen to the live music, enjoy one of many local microbrews on tap or a great margarita, and let the kids play! The food here ranges from burgers and fries to authentic New Mexican cuisine. We recommend the nachos as an appetizer.

cowgirl-hall-of-fame

Across the street at the railway depot is Tomasitas, with the most authentic Northern New Mexican cuisine in the city (according to locals). Tomasitas is completely casual, making it an excellent pick for kids, plus serves up the best margarita I’ve ever had. The guacamole and blue corn chips pair with the margarita perfectly, and their entrees range from enchiladas, tacos, chile rellenos, and tamales. All meals come with authentic sopaipilla (fried bread) and feature green or red chiles in the New Mexican tradition. Ask your server to have the chile sauce on the side if you’re not used to it: it’s very hot, but delicious! A kids’ menu is available, and restless kids can go outside with a parent to watch for trains.

tomasitas-santa-fe

Check out our review of the Inn and Spa at Loretto, our Santa Fe lodging pick.

What to do in Texas Hill Country with kids

Spring and fall are perfect times of year to visit the quaint town of Fredericksburg, tucked away in the scenic Hill Country of Texas. The weather is warm but mild, making this an economical spring break getaway for families within driving distance or those wanting to escape colder weather in the north (who want to stay in the States for break). If you aren’t familiar with Fredericksburg, this tourist town of less than 10,000 attracts millions of visitors per year, who enjoy their German-Texan heritage, historic buildings and museums, excellent shopping and fun dining scene.

What to do in Texas Hill Country with kids:

Start at the Fredericksburg visitor center located just one block from Main Street on E. Austin. Here, you can start with a trolley tour to orient yourselves to the town. The tour highlights area history, including the unique town square, which the German settlers utilized for everything from celebration (think Octoberfest!) to protection from the Comanche tribes in the area. Kids will find the trolley tour fun (it’s about 45 minutes long, but you can hop off as desired), but mostly, this is a good chance for Mom and Dad to get a feel for the downtown area to decide what to come back to later.

Next, explore the National Museum of the Pacific War. Wondering why there’s a sprawling, world-class museum dedicated to WWII’s Pacific theater in the heart of little Fredericksburg, Texas? It’s thanks to one of their own, Admiral Charles Nimitz. When the town expressed interest in creating a museum in his honor, he only agreed if they highlighted all the men who served under him and the women who sacrificed on the home front, instead of only focusing on his career. The result: a massive, beautiful museum that does an excellent job of telling the story of both the American experience in the Pacific as well as the Japanese perspective. There’s a fairly small gallery focusing on Nimitz, with the rest of the main museum offering gallery after gallery that walks visitors through the WWII Pacific theater chronologically. You get a feel for the early conflict, then experience the bombing of Pearl Harbor in a very tasteful and dramatic gallery. More rooms follow, highlighting the years of battles in the Pacific.

Note: Look for the kiosks with audible oral history. The museum has curated thousands of first-hand narratives from veterans of the Pacific theater, some of which are on offer in the galleries. Take a moment to listen to their stories in their own voices.

There are also outdoor spaces and galleries with WWII planes and vehicles, and even submarines and torpedos. It’s very impressive all they have on display here. Be sure to save time to see the Japanese Garden of Peace outside and the Pacific Combat Zone (one block away). This space is where they do reenactments and even when not in use, the battlefield is fascinating the behold. There’s a hangar with multiple vehicles as well.

Tip: This museum takes a lot of time and takes a lot out of you. Your tickets (which are only $15 for adults, by the way) are good for 48 hours. I suggest breaking up this museum into two visits, with at least a lunch break in-between, if not a whole day.

Next, check out the Pioneer Museum Complex on the edge of downtown. This outdoor museum is much more manageable and takes you through the general experience of the German immigrants who settled Fredericksburg. A short video tells the story of their hardships upon arrival to the New World, then families can tour through multiple buildings, including a farmstead, barn, blacksmith shop, and even a schoolhouse. Docents and museum workers are on-hand to answer questions, and a self-guided map leads you through.

Fredericksburg

Outside of Fredericksburg, do not miss Sauer-Beckmann Living History Farmstead in Lyndon B Johnson State Park. This large state park has a lot going on, including wild bison herds and Texas Longhorns, and the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park (a national park site) where families can tour Johnson’s Texas White House. But kids will be most interested in the Sauer-Beckman farmstead, and that’s where you should start.

This living history site is nothing short of amazing. Docents and state and national park rangers work the farmstead daily (8 am to 4:30 pm), and when I say ‘work’, I mean work. Dressed in period costume, they keep a working, productive farm, including milking cows, tending to sheep and chickens, making bread and butter, canning vegetables, butchering and curing meats, sewing and weaving…all of it. They live without electricity or running water all day long, and in every room in every building, kids can observe their work and ask questions. I learned how to utilize the gallons of milk produced by their cow every day without the aid of refrigeration…it involves turning milk to cream to butter to curds and whey to cottage cheese to hard cheese, basically!

living history

There are gardens and pastures to check out, and kids can observe the natural wind energy produced by the windmill. If you’re at all interested in knowing how to ‘live off the grid’, talk to these guys! Everyone was fascinated.

Afterward, drive the short distance to the national park side of the park to see Lyndon B. Johnson’s ranch, which includes a guided house tour and the chance to check out their airstrip and airport hangar. Older kids may be interested in this, but if you have young kids, I recommend spending more time at the living history park or enjoying the beautiful park grounds, which include a river, picnic areas and even a swimming pool (open seasonally).

With the rest of your time in Fredericksburg, explore the fun shopping and dining downtown. It’s a casual town and there are plenty of places to eat outdoors or enjoy play spaces (especially in the main square). If you have a babysitter at the ready, carve out some time to enjoy the wine scene in Fredericksburg, or the emerging distillery scene (see my post on Fredericksburg for grown-ups).

Where to eat in Fredericksburg with kids:

Fredericksburg boasts plenty of casual dining options, most of which have live music at night, which is a plus when you’re trying to entertain squirmy kids. We most enjoyed the following:

tubby's

Clear River Pecan: this is a go-to place for ice cream or a coffee drink as a pick-me-up in the afternoons

Burger Burger: Great for a good burger, obviously, with a nice patio overlooking Main Street

Tubby’s Ice House: this local joint is just across from the Pacific museum, making it a perfect lunch spot. Their street foods include tacos and burgers and kids can get homemade popsicles while grown-ups enjoy frosé (frozen rosé). Yes, it’s as good as it sounds.

La Bergerie: make yourselves a picnic with the charcuterie on offer at this artisanal market (Mom and Dad, grab a bottle of wine to go with it). All the meats here are Texan and cured on site.

Fredericksburg Pie Company: a must-do, especially during the spring peach season!

West End Pizza: This classic pizza joint has lovely outdoor seating and homemade, wood-fired pizzas. Best of all, their salads are very good, so you can eat fairly healthy if you want to.

West End Pizza

Where to stay:

Stay at Fredericksburg Inn and Suites right off Main Street. You can walk to everything, and the suites include a separate living space with doors, making it easy to put kids down for the night before Mom and Dad turn in. I loved the big pool area with grass and outdoor BBQ pits. There’s ample seating outside, perfect for winding down the day with a glass of wine (wine bottles are available for purchase right at the front desk). The included breakfast is decent (your average continental breakfast offerings of waffles, eggs and bacon, yogurt, toast and muffins and cereals).

Frederickburg Inn and Suites

Disclosure: I experienced Fredericksburg at the invitation of the tourism board, for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

Disney World monorail resort restaurants: where to go and when

We love the Disney World monorail: it’s iconic, fun, fast, and easy. Strollers slide on and off with ease, lines are always at a minimum, and for kids, it’s a ride in itself. We try to take the monorail as often as possible during a Disney trip, in order to keep stress at a minimum.

monorail-resort--restaurants

Our top Disney monorail tip: use this transportation to travel from the Magic Kingdom to Disney World monorail resort restaurants for fun or relaxing meals.

First, a quick tutorial: the Disney Resort loop connects the Contemporary, Polynesian, and Grand Floridian via monorail. A second monorail line connects the Magic Kingdom with the Transportation and Ticket Center: this is how you can get directly to Epcot or connect to other parks and resorts via bus. The resort loop is what we’re focusing on today, and it goes in a single direction: from the Magic Kingdom, it stops at the Contemporary, then the Poly and the Grand Floridian, in that order. Therefore, if you’re at the Grand Floridian, the Magic Kingdom will be the very first stop (3-5 minute ride, tops).

Our dining pick in each Disney World monorail resort:

Chef Mickey:

A classic dining experience in the Contemporary, Chef Mickey is our pick for the first dining you do in the World. Why? It hits all the buttons: you ride the monorail directly into the building, you see Mickey and his gang almost immediately, and you eat a buffet meal (read: no waiting). I know the Contemporary gets some grief, but I like the wide, bright atrium where Chef Mickey is located, and appreciate the very classic Disney feel of this restaurant. Use the dining plan to book this character meal (or experience sticker shock when you get the bill), and enjoy this experience just before entering the Magic Kingdom for the first time of your trip. Need to see the menu?

Where to go to chill: Find some quiet in the convention section of the hotel. Even if there’s an event going on, which is almost always, the hallways outside the meeting spaces are usually peaceful.

Kona Cafe:

Aloha! Welcome to the Polynesian. We think O’hana gets all the attention (and certainly deserves its fair share), but Kona Cafe is often overlooked, and has many of the same menu items in a more relaxed, quiet atmosphere. For a break from the parks, this is what you need! Have the Tonga Toast at breakfast, or go all out at lunch or dinner, making use of the sushi bar and wonderful seafood entrees. Kona Cafe is listed as casual dining (for use with the Disney Dining Plan), and adult plates range from $15-$29. View the menu here.

disney-polynesian

Where to go to chill: Head through the lush gardens to the Polynesian beach, of course. If you’re lucky, you’ll snag a hammock or swing chair. No, you don’t have to be a resort guest to use these!

1900 Park Fare:

For our money, 1900 Park Fare is where to go for that special character meal outside the parks, especially if you’ve already seen Mickey and Co. 1900 Park Fare is home to the Supercalifragilistic Breakfast, the Wonderland Tea Party, and Cinderella’s Happily Ever After Dinner. What does this mean? Reservations are crucial (up to 180 days in advance). Use the dining plan to book these expensive meals.

However, if character dining is not on your wish list, take a ride to the Grand Floridian (or take the boat…you’ll see the dock right across from the monorail station), and head to the quiet, crowd-free Grand Floridian Cafe instead. We loved the breakfast here, and had empty tables on either side of us, even during Spring Break.

Where to go to chill: Head outside, past the Gasparilla Grill (quick service restaurant) to find a chair overlooking the marina. Kids can watch the boats come and go and (maybe) you can catch a few minutes with your eyes half-closed.

grand-floridan

Whispering Canyon:

Ok, this Wilderness Lodge restaurant is not on the monorail loop, but it’s within park distance without getting in a car or bus. Here’s how: from the Magic Kingdom, take the ferry to Fort Wilderness and the lodge.

Unlike Grand Floridian Cafe or Kona Cafe, Whispering Canyon is NOT the restaurant to retreat to when you’re on stimulation overload from the parks. Instead, hit up this restaurant before your park day, like we recommended with Chef Mickey. We like to come here for a fun lunch after a restful morning, and take the boat straight to the Magic Kingdom afterward. It’s large, loud, and usually crowded, and the wait staff love to play practical jokes, tease, and sing. Expect to be entertained, not relaxed. Here’s your menu!

Where to go to chill: After or before your meal, head either to the grand lobby to sit in a rocking chair by the fireplace, or walk out back to the pool area, where kids will enjoy seeing the ‘creek’ that flows from the indoors to the outdoors.

Moral of the story: don’t be afraid to make good use of Disney transportation! The Disney monorail resort restaurants provide extra Disney magic (and a chance to catch your breath), and you don’t need to be a guest at one to stop by, enjoy the ambiance, and relax!

 

How to experience boutique wine in the Northwest

With over 18 viticulture regions in Oregon alone, the Pacific Northwest has gained a reputation for growing wine grapes and producing great wine. To date, however, the vast majority of Oregon and Washington wine production is small-batch, grown on boutique estates. For wine aficionados used to frequenting large, well-known wineries in California, Tuscany or France, the difference in experience is significant. Those seeking out boutique wineries in the Northwest will discover a world of hands-on winemaking, with winemakers attached to their grapes and the land they’re produced on, will discover wines no one else knows about, and will have unaccustomed access to winery owners.

Where to go for Northwest wine:

With over 700 wineries in Oregon and over 800 in Washington, choices are plentiful, but a wine weekend is best focused on one of four regions. In Oregon, the best-known option is to head to the Willamette Valley, where Pinot Noir reigns king. The wineries here are among the oldest in the state, with heritage winemaking over several generations. Take a tour with Grape Escape to make the most of your visit, and stop for dining in Newberg or McMinnville and consider an overnight stay at the Allison Inn and Spa or a more relaxed yurt stay (yes, yurt!) at Bradley Vineyards.

A few hours down I-5, Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley has emerged on the wine scene in the past ten years, producing wines that do well in hotter, drier climates. Take a day to enjoy the Applegate Wine Trail or Table Rock Wine Trail, and consider a stay in Ashland or Jacksonville to round out your weekend. South Stage Cellars in historic Jacksonville offers an excellent selection of local wine, as does Old 99 Road Wine Shop in Medford. For sweeping views of the Rogue Valley, wine taste and dine at Dancin’ Vineyards or Kriselle Cellars.

In Washington State, Walla Walla plays host to some of the top wineries, with the Walla Walla Wine Alliance bringing them all together. Stroll the quaint downtown sector of this small city, poking into various tasting rooms and wine bars. Take a wine tour or pair your trip with a visit to Washington’s other major wine region, along the Columbia River Gorge. This wine region is ideally situated to pair with a city visit to Portland or a weekend away in Hood River.

Types of wine to look for at boutique Northwest wineries this coming year: counter-culture chardonnay, MRV, and Grenache Blanc (as opposed to blends).

How to find boutique wines during a city vacation:

Not heading to wine country, but want to discover boutique wine in Portland or Seattle? Start with urban wineries, which typically buy grapes from around the region, or consider joining a localized wine club. Cellar 503 is based in Portland and ships Oregon wine to its members monthly. Cellar 503’s tasting room in the city offers a place for members to taste, congregate to share wine news, and educate.

In Washington state, it’s possible meander along an urban wine trail right in Seattle, or taste the best the state has to offer at Bottlehouse or The Tasting Room.

Wine festivals and competitions not to miss:

Serious about wine tasting and want the biggest bang for your buck? Head to a Northwest-focused wine competition. Topping the list: The Oregon Wine Experience, held each August in Jacksonville Oregon. 65 Oregon wineries will congregate in one place during one week, with winemaker’s dinners, award competitions, tastings and wine university classes. The Northwest Food and Wine Festival, held in Portland, is another sure bet, as is Taste NW’s Seattle Wine Awards.

However you experience the Pacific Northwest boutique wines, you can expect to be greeted in tasting rooms by owners (and probably their dogs), shouldn’t be surprised if you’re invited to tour a barrel room or two, and will be delighted by low tasting fees and affordable bottle prices. Cheers!

Family Apres Ski at Whistler Village

After a full day of skiing or boarding, nothing is so satisfying as unbuckling your boots and shedding your coat to warm up amid the lively ambiance of fellow skiers and perhaps a live band. Add a cold brew or warm beverage, and you just might be in heaven. We’ve already told you where to eat on a budget at Whistler, but you don’t have to pass up the fun of apres ski drinks and appetizers, even if you do have a full kitchen at your Whistler home rental. Check out the following family-friendly apres ski at Whistler Village locations.

apres ski with kids

1. Mallard Lounge, Fairmont Chateau Whistler:

Located within the elegant lobby of the Fairmont (right off Blackcomb’s Wizard chair), the Mallard offers cozy couches fireside and a designated family seating area. In fact, the whole lounge is kid-friendly until 8 pm. On Friday nights until peak season, parents can order $5 drink specials while the kids sip gourmet hot chocolates and listen to nightly live entertainment.

2. Earl’s:

Earl’s is hard to miss coming down from any of Whistler’s main runs into the Village. Ski right to the front door, and grab a spot by the fire. The atmosphere here is very casual and fun; no one minds kids underfoot and the crowd is very family-oriented in the early evening after the lifts stop turning. Stay for dinner or depart after a drink or two (the burgers are great, but pricy).

3. Elements:

Located off the beaten path in Whistler Village North, Elements manages to be both casual and upscale, with inventive cocktails and appetizers that don’t break the bank. Kids will like the tapas that are disguised as finger foods. Unlike some of the noisier bars and pubs along the Village and Upper Village (think Wizard Bistro), Elements remains full without feeling crowded.

While you wait for drinks or while you’re still deciding where to go, let the kids play on one of the many snow hills piled up along the pedestrian streets of the Village Stroll. They’ll have a blast playing ‘king of the hill’ or sledding down them in their ski pants even after a full day on the slopes. (If only I had that sort of energy!)

Photo credit

Knoxville dining scene: Farm to fork country cooking

Imagine a culinary destination rich with vegan, vegetarian, and additional healthy dining options on nearly every menu, taking care to utilize locally-sourced ingredients. Then imagine Southern comfort cooking, from casseroles to pies, chow chow, and grits, with a heavy dose of tradition in each plating. Now imagine these two culinary styles combined, in one place, and you have Knoxville’s dining scene.

Downtown Knoxville has enjoyed a recent revival, with its walkable Market Square playing host to upward of 80 independent restaurants. The surrounding countryside in Knox, Anderson, and Jefferson counties boast several more destination restaurants, as well. Here’s where to go, on your next visit to the ‘cradle of country music’.

knoxville dining

Knoxville and Market Square:

French Market: This French creperie is owned and operated by a couple who lived in Paris much of their adulthood, and have brought traditional French crepes back to Tennessee. Recently recognized as one of the top 25 creperies in the world, French Market gets busy each morning, but service is quick and the coffee and juices are great, too. Pick from sweet or savory crepes, omelettes and homemade croissants. Located at 412 Clinch Ave.

french market

Tomato Head: This sandwich and salad eatery’s motto is, ‘Food’s gotta cook…don’t come out of a can’, which pretty much says it all. Tomato Head has an extensive vegetarian and vegan menu, in addition to your traditional meats and cheeses. We picked up a to-go order to eat at the nearby Knoxville Visitor’s Center, where we listened to the Blue Plate Special radio hour (a Knoxville must-do), which worked out perfectly. Located at 12 Market Square.

Maple Hall Bowling: This boutique Market Square bowling alley is more hip bar than traditional bowling alley, with 11 almost elegant lanes, small plates and cocktails, and a very fun, young vibe. Come with the kids in the afternoon, or in the evening for date night. Located at 414 South Gay Street.

maple hall

Bistro by the Bijou: Located next door to the Bijou Theater, Knoxville’s top venue for live music downtown, Bistro by the Bijou is run by Martha Boggs, a Tennessee native who managed the bistro for years before becoming its owner. With no formal schooling in culinary arts, Martha has curated a menu with the sophistication of a trained chef…her diverse offerings are plant-based at heart, with added proteins with a Southern flair. She says she’s been cooking all her life with her family, and it shows: of all the meals we enjoyed in Knoxville, Bistro by the Bijou represented the farm-to-fork Southern sophistication hybrid I so enjoyed best. She grows her own vegetables, so you’ll see seasonal offerings like okra, tomatoes, and eggplant, and her daily chalkboard always features something in season and locally available. Located at 807 South Gay Street.

Knoxville Ale Trail: Knoxville boasts 10 breweries on its ale trail, with craft brewers from all walks of life, running breweries sporting all types of vibes and personalities. Most locals will recommend Alliance Brewing Company, located right next to Knoxville’s urban wilderness, making it a great stop after mountain biking or hiking. Crafty Bastard Brewery is run by a colorful and lively couple, serving unconventional, quirky beers.

Surrounding area:

Museum of Appalachia restaurant: Learn more about the awesome Museum of Appalachia here, but trust me, it’s attached restaurant deserves its own spotlight. Serving traditional Southern food with some modern twists, it offers farm to fork fare during lunch (long before farm to fork was a buzz word), such as vegetable casseroles, pies and soups, classic mashed potatoes and riced cauliflower, pot pies, carved meats, and to-die-for desserts. Eating here felt like Thanksgiving dinner, there were so many sides to choose from. Located at 2819 Andersonville Highway, Clinton, TN.

Bush’s Beans Visitor Center: While it’s not possible to tour the actual factory at Bush’s Beans, located in Chestnut Hill, it’s worth a stop if you’re in the area for the restaurant alone. Tour the adjacent museum to learn a bit about the Bush family, then stop for at least a slice of pie (every one we tried was amazing) or a whole lunch. They serve everything from classic beans and cornbread here to catfish, steak, or burgers, but the sides are the stars of the show. Try the sweet potato fries dusted with cinnamon and sugar, the fried okra, or the pinto bean pie.

Calhoun’s: Located in Oak Ridge, Calhoun’s is a great dinner destination after touring the Manhattan Project National Historic Park and American Museum of Science and Energy. Known for their BBQ, Calhoun’s view is also a draw; it sits right on the Clinch River, at 100 Melton Lake Peninsula.

Note: East Tennessee does have several wine trails, with the Great Valley Wine Trail the easiest to access from Knoxville. While the region is not known for wine, the views and ambiance at Spout Spring Estates Winery and Vineyard make this friendly winery worth a stop if driving through. It’s located at 430 Riddle Lane in Blaine, Tennessee.

Disclosure: I sampled Knoxville’s dining scene as a guest of the city, for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.