What to do in Anaheim beyond the parks: Anaheim Packing District

If you’ve planned a trip with the kids to Anaheim for the Disney theme parks, hopefully you’re taking my advice and adding at least one ‘rest day’ to your Disney itinerary. Disneyland and California Adventure are now at least a two-day affair, and by extending your Orange County trip to three full days, you can take a much needed break from the parks in the middle. Here’s what to do, beyond going to the beach.

what to do in Anaheim

What to do in Anaheim beyond the parks:

Anaheim Packing District:

This pedestrian-friendly district in Anaheim is only minutes from Disney, but feels a world away. Built at the site of one of Orange County’s famed orange groves of a few decades ago, the Packing District is now an eclectic and artistic mix of shops, dining venues, breweries, outdoor walkways and green spaces. It feels urban in a way most of the OC does not, and has been described as the ‘locals’ Anaheim’.

packing house

Start at the Packing House, which is two stories of dining options and artisan food speciality shops. The Packing House reminded me of Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market or even Seattle’s Pike Place Market. Kids will go crazy for the sweet milk, boba, and tea concoctions at Mini Monster, served in custom mason jars topped in clouds of cotton candy, and with the hand-dipped popsicles and ice cream at Popbar. I recommend the authentic Indian cuisine at ADYA and the Vietnamese flavors at Sawleaf Cafe, but the best part is that everyone can order from a different venue at the Packing House, then come together to eat at the same table, sharing bites.

The Packing House is surrounded by brew pubs with outdoor seating and kid-friendly amenities (think swings and board games) and more handmade and homemade goodness in MAKE and nearby Farmers Park. Leisuretown, coming soon, will feature more dining options plus a massive swimming pool, among other amusements.

packing house

Segerstrom Center for the Arts:

The Segerstrom Center for the Arts is a world-class performing arts center located adjacent to Anaheim in Costa Mesa. Yes, there are shows in Disney, but if you need a break for some genuine culture, this is where to do it. The Segerstrom offers a year-round Family Series, which features kid-friendly shows and performances throughout the year. For young kids, offerings such as Muppet sing-alongs and Journey to Oz are on the schedule for 2018, with shows such as School of Rock for older kids. Dining near the Segerstrom is limited to a few fine dining venues, so I recommend eating before arriving.

Tip: Many families coming to Orange County just for Disney don’t rent a car. You don’t need one to get to the Packing District or Segerstrom. While Southern California is admittedly not known for public transit, ART (Anaheim Resort Transportation) does do a good job of getting families to and from the resort areas and the rest of Anaheim. You can connect to ART directly from Disneyland, and fares are only $5.50 for adults and $2 for kids ages 3-9. Lyft is a good bet as well!

urbana

Where to stay:

If you’re not staying on Disney property and want to be centrally located for both Disneyland and additional Anaheim and Costa Mesa offerings, I highly recommend the Homewood Suites Irvine. Minutes from everything, Irvine makes for a central home base that will help you avoid traffic, and is more budget-friendly than Orange County beach towns or Disney-adjacent properties.

The value proposition at Homewood Suites Irvine is high: families get free parking, free breakfast, free WiFi, easy access to Disney, and even a free nightly reception/drink option, that includes enough food to call it a light meal. During my visit, I watched a family of four make a full meal out of Italian cuisine appetizers, drinks (including wine and beer for parents) and desserts served complimentarily, and settle by the outdoor pool for a chill evening. The next evening, it was Chinese food, and my last evening, the reception centered around pizzas and antipasto. Plus, in addition to an outdoor pool and hot tub, the Homewood Suites features an outdoor sport court.

Grown-Up Getaway: What to do in Orange County without the kids

What? Go to Orange County, home of Disneyland, without the kids? Yep! And here’s why you need to go with the fellow grown-up of your choice (and what you need to do):

Orange County without the kids:

orange county

Orange County has recently surprised me with mixed use buildings, a more urban flare, and a departure from the beach-and-theme-park vibe I’ve long been used to. Here’s what not to miss in four Orange County cities, including Anaheim.

Spend a day in San Juan Capistrano and Laguna Beach:

Located on the southern end of Orange County, San Juan Capistrano lies adjacent to the beach towns of Dana Point and Laguna Beach, but offers something different than sand and sun. One of the oldest communities on the west coast, visiting San Juan Capistrano adds a layer of history and old-world beauty to your Southern California vacation. Start at the Mission San Juan Capistrano, and try to time your visit to coincide with one of their tours. The powers that be currently at the mission are taking great care with preservation and history, and provide excellent tours for just a nominal fee over the entry fee.

From the mission, peruse the shops adjacent, then cross the railroad trips to the neighborhood of Los Rios. This oldest neighborhood in California is tucked away amid an almost garden-like network of quiet streets, and the cafes, boutiques, and clothing stores here are all run by owners who live on premises.

san juan capistrano

Head up the coastline through Dana Point to the artist haven of Laguna Beach. Take in the pretty streets and impressive art galleries, stroll through the Festival of the Arts or the fun and funky Sawdust Festival if you’re visiting during the summer season, then throw all your impressions of elegant art and refinement out the window during a counter-culture tour of Laguna with Doug from La Vida Laguna. This fascinating walking tour is a new offering from this company that also leads kayak, surf, and paddle board tours and rentals, and talks visitors through the (slightly) dark and completely fascinating underbelly of Laguna, from the time it served as a hotbed of the LSD craze of the 1960s and housed the Brotherhood of Eternal Love, championed by infamous Timothy Leary.

laguna

The two-hour tour isn’t all ‘60s drug culture; during the walk, I also learned a lot about the historic origins of iconic Laguna landmarks and the history of many of the famous shops and homeowners in the area. At the end of the tour, take your pick of Laguna eateries with views of the Pacific.

Enjoy at spa day in Huntington Beach:

Treat yourselves to a spa day a the Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach. There are many spas in Orange County, but I recommend this one because of the value proposition: with a spa treatment, you can stay at the property all day, enjoying not only the spa amenities but the pools. Valet parking is included, room service can be brought to the spa, and the Watertable, the Hyatt Regency’s on-site dining venue, is a perfect compliment. And if you crave some beach time, it’s right across the street via pedestrian bridge.

Experience world-class theater in Costa Mesa:

The Segerstrom Center for the Arts, located in Costa Mesa, offers all full line-up of theater productions. Whereas I might have assumed I’d need to travel to Los Angeles for quality theater, the Segerstrom impressed. Begin your night with the fixed pris menu at Silver Trumpet, located directly across the street from the theater. Try one of their craft cocktails or ask for the impressive wine list.

Wine and dine:

Speaking of good food, if you explore only one Orange County dining and shopping mixed-use space, make it the Packing House, located in the Packing District of Anaheim. Just minutes from Disneyland, the Packing House is located on the site of an orange packing plant, now converted to two stories of fun, funky, and locally-sourced food, art, and handmade items.

urbana

Be sure to get to the Packing House with plenty of time to stroll, then endure the hard part: picking just one or two places to eat. Split up, and return to the central tables with bites to share. Cuisine is quick-serve, and ranges from Indian and Vietnamese fare to Southern comfort food and boba tea and smoothies. If you visit in the evening, be sure to visit The Blind Rabbit, an authentic speak-easy, with an unmarked door (ask for directions).

Outside the Packing House in the greater Packing District, take your pick between breweries with plenty of outdoor seating and live music, and a selection of wine bars.

Similar to the Packing House, OC Mix is located nearby in Costa Mesa, with more craft and handmade items, plus a smattering of unique home decor and design offerings. An outdoor space with Adirondack chairs and other seating is a good place to chill with a tea or coffee, and two wine bars, including LCA Wines, with unique offerings from around the world for excellent prices, offer tastings.

ARC

Eat at ARC if the weather is on the cooler side; this warm-hued venue makes meals entirely on open flame and in a wood-fired oven, in an open-concept kitchen. The casseroles and meat dishes are rich and comforting, and the craft cocktails are on point. If you’d rather eat outside, head to Taco Maria for some of the best upscale tacos in the OC (these are not street tacos, by any means). Take them to the courtyard to eat al fresco.

orange county

In nearby Irvine, Andrei’s Conscious Cuisine is tucked away in a largely corporate-looking business district, but has a hopping happy hour, as well as truly spectacular cuisine. Start with one of the artisan cocktails, then pursue the extensive wine list (two days a week, Monday and Tuesday, there are no corkage fees if you want to bring  bottle of your own). The best thing about Andrei’s: 100% of its profits goes toward retinal eye disease research, in honor of Andrei Olenicoff, the owners’ son and brother. Yes, 100%.

Where to stay:

Treat yourselves to a truly sleek, new hotel with a beautiful lounge and excellent fully-catered breakfast, right in the heart of Irvine. The Marriott AC Hotel Irvine is a business-leisure hybrid with a second-floor outdoor pool and lounge area, a full bar and lounge indoors, and an upscale breakfast buffet (not complimentary) that serves two additional made-to-order offerings per morning as well.

ac hotel irvine

While the AC Hotel does charge for breakfast and parking, it makes up for these factors in its ambiance and convenient central location. The hardest thing to plan during an Orange County vacation is drive time with traffic, and by staying in Irvine, you’ll be within 15 minutes of Costa Mesa and Anaheim, and less than 30 minutes from Laguna and San Juan Capistrano. I enjoyed the ‘city’ vibe of the hotel, since so often, Orange County is equated with ‘beach’ or ‘Disney’.

Estes Park with kids: What to do in downtown Estes Park

While you’re in Estes Park with kids enjoying the mountains, be sure to carve out some time to explore the downtown area of this fabulous destination.

credit: midwest living

Fun City:

I would be remiss if I didn’t start with Estes Park’s ultimate kid-friendly attraction; it was the place my kids remembered best from our first trip, and the place they most wanted to return to. With burlap sack and 3-story twisty slides, miniature golf, go-karts, bumper boats, and more, this is a place you won’t want to miss. And trust me, you couldn’t miss it, even if you wanted to. It’s right next to the highway on the way to Bear Lake. Pricing is per attraction, and you load a swipe card in advance. Take advantage of the value cards—$57 worth of rides for $50, or $120 for $100.

estes park

Feeding the Family:

For low-fuss, fast-service food, try Bob & Tony’s Pizza (124 W. Elkhorn). The pizza is decent and the atmosphere is fabulous, with walls of signed bricks and an arcade with pool, air hockey, foosball and racing games at the back. You order and pick up at the counter, so it’s very low-fuss and family-friendly.

If you’re more in the mood for burgers, go for Penelope’s World Famous Burgers, which really are pretty scrumptious, though you’ll pay more for the quality. It’s a fun, old-fashioned place with small tables and a modern version of a jukebox. (229 W. Elkhorn)

Sugar Rush:

What downtown tourist area would be complete without a slew of sweet shops? The Danish Cone factory makes waffle cones on site; several others offer big, soft cookies and candy-making. There’s also a taffy shop, and don’t forget the old-fashioned candy store, which sells bulk candy by the piece or by the pound, including some you haven’t seen since you were a kid. (Candy cigarettes, anyone?)

estes park

Shopping:

Kitschy t-shirts, pens, mugs, wind chimes, blown glass, Disney figurines, bohemian clothes, toys—you name it, you can probably find it in downtown Estes. Naturally, this means Downtown Estes Park gets very busy in the summertime, with foot traffic on the sidewalks competing with the stream of cars headed to the Beaver Meadows entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. There’s lots of free parking, but prepared for slow traffic. Estes Park has a free shuttle; take advantage of it if you can. One thing I liked was the fact that the city has officers directing traffic at the major intersections in the downtown, and every cycle of the lights, they stop vehicle traffic so that pedestrians can cross—diagonally, even!

Free with kids:

Let’s be honest: with kids, ‘free’ is an important consideration.

  • Pikas in the Park: Keep the kids active and entertained trying to puzzle out the clues that help them complete this downtown scavenger hunt for bronze statues of the tiny mammal known as a pika.
  • The Riverwalk: Lining the back side of the main shopping drag, you’ll find this lovely pathway, with sculptures, fountains, and places to sit and watch the rushing mountain stream tumble past rounded rocks. You’ll also find a small play structure, too.
  • Performance Park: Just west of the downtown strip, this lovely amphitheater sits alongside Fall River. During the high season, there are free concerts on Thursday nights here. Bring blankets and lawn chairs.
  • The Birch Ruins inhabit an outcropping above downtown, with gorgeous views of Lake Estes and both the major corridors into the national Park. The walking trail, accessed from the parking lot behind the police station, takes you through a small nature preserve and then up the hill to the ruins.

Doing ‘grownup stuff’ with kids in tow:

For the most part, even the adult attractions in Estes Park are refreshingly kid-friendly. To wit:

  • The Slab, a no-frills, good-food outdoor pub which offers lawn games, Bingo, and Jenga as well as live music and adult beverages.
  • Snowy Peaks Winery, just a stone’s throw from Fun City, which lets kids do juice tastings while their parents taste the more fermented variety. They also have a play room in one corner and a lounge area with tons of board games. If you get rained out, take the family, buy a glass of Colorado wine, and spend a couple of hours together.

What are your “must-do” items in Estes Park?

Where to eat in Gulf Shores and Orange Beach Alabama

A decade ago, families visiting Gulf Shores and Orange Beach Alabama could expect baskets of shrimp and fries on the beach, bushwhackers in the bars, and not much else. Today, the culinary scene on the Gulf Coast of Alabama has changed significantly, with elevated dining in multiple venues. Here’s where to eat in Gulf Shores during your next beach vacation:

gulf shores

Awesome with kids:

The Hangout:

Right on the beach, The Hangout feels like a place you might have bumped into the Beach Boys in the 1960s. Famous for its three-day music festival held in May, the Hangout has a permanent stage outside in its large outdoor place, which also has a huge sand pile for kids to play on, plus oversized Connect Four and checkers, outdoors swings, and other entertainment for all. Even if you sit outside, be sure to peek inside to check out all the cool memorabilia on the walls, including a vintage lunchbox collection and toy collection.

GT’s:

Short for Good Times, GT’s in Orange Beach has a similar vibe to The Hangout, with a large outdoor space in addition to its indoor space. GT’s sits on the bay side, not the ocean side, and is a great place to come for lunch then paddle board with Gulf Coast Paddle Company (GT’s built a dock out back just for this service).

Note: While I didn’t experience it personally, I’m told Lulu’s is an other excellent option for families, with a large outdoor space to play in, and careful attention given to diners with any sort of dietary allergies. They take orders for patrons with allergies on a separate, red note pad, and orders go through a separate line in the kitchen.

The Yard Milkshake Bar:

My oh my. If you want to make your kids’ eyes pop out of their heads in delight, head to The Yard. The brainchild of a young local entrepreneur, this ice cream shop specializes in custom-made milkshakes. When you arrive, you can expect a line (even in the off-season), but that’s alright, because it will take you awhile to decide on your order anyway. Use the order forms available on clipboards to select your ice cream flavors, add-ins, and toppings. To give you an idea, you could top your milkshake with the likes of cupcakes, donuts, bananas, cotton candy, and cookie dough. These milkshakes are artistic masterpieces, and yes, you should definitely skip lunch to have room to eat these! Milkshakes start around $6, and go up from there depending on what you top it with, but each comes with a souvenir mason jar that you keep. The reason: this establishment is so popular and busy, the staff doesn’t have time to wash them!

Soul Bowlz:

Locally owned (like many Gulf Shores establishments) Soul Bowlz operated out of a surf shop until just recently, and now is expanding to several locations. You’ll find it tucked into a strip mall, but don’t let its lackluster location deter you…I’ve never had such a good Acai bowl! They also make smoothies kids will love, that are very healthy (no added sugar).

soul bowlz

Beach-casual yet upscale:

Big Wave Dave’s:

Located near the ocean, Big Wave Dave’s has taken beach fare such as fried shrimp and poboys with fries to a new level, with lobster rolls inspired by their Fire Island, New York location (which is owned by the same family). Their catch of the day plate is to die for, and the portions are huge here.

Cosmo’s:

It won’t take you long at Cosmo’s to realize this restaurant is owned by a dog lover…and cat lover. Cosmo’s is named after the owner’s labrador retriever, and yes, dogs are welcome here for patio seating (the server will bring Fido a dish of water, too). Definitely peek into the adjacent gift shop, Maggie’s (named after another family dog), grab a pint at Luna’s (yes, named after another dog) and to BuzzCatz, the cat-themed coffee shop and bakery. We had the best lunch of our stay here (the ahi tuna Asian salad is fabulous). Cosmo’s speciality is their banana leaf-wrapped fish, which has won awards, but won its way into my heart when our server told us that after tasting it while dining here, he marched directly into the kitchen to ask for an application…he wanted to work for the chef that made that dish.

Big Beach Brewing Company:

Kid friendly and dog friendly, the indoor-outdoor Big Beach Brewing Company is new to the Gulf Coast scene. Started as a hobby, Big Beach quickly outgrew its small basement operation, and now has 12 taps featuring craft brews. When I visited, they had a honey ale on tap that was delicious. Get comfortable in the tree swings, hammocks and outdoor tables and listen to the live music on the weekends.

Bill’s by the Beach:

If you want to eat somewhere you can walk to from the beach, head either to The Hangout or Bill’s. There’s outdoor seating, and older kids can play ping-pong in the lower elevated space below the first floor. (Young kids welcome, but a busy street is located adjacent and they will need parental supervision.) Bill’s has great salads and appetizers, and a wide selection of cocktails, with mimosas and Bloody Marys available most of the day.

Coast at the Beach Club:

Located in The Beach Club out by Fort Morgan, Coast has a beautiful atmosphere, with soft pastel colors and coastal decor. There’s a large outdoor patio with ocean views, and a very ‘elegant Southern beach house’ feel indoors. The daily catch is always a sure bet, and there’s full sushi bar in the evenings by the bar (they can coordinate with the dining staff and kitchen to have sushi orders come out with the rest of the meal or separately). I recommend the Caesar salad, sushi, and scallops. If you want a more casual meal outdoors, the Beach Club features a food truck pod made of Airstreams out front…ideal for dining with kids.

Just for grown-ups:

Flora-Bama:

Flora-Bama

You have to see Flora-Bama to believe it. This bar on the Florida-Alabama state line is like nothing I’ve ever seen. The closest I can come to describing it: Disney’s Frontierland meets Wild West meets Vegas meets Hooters. While kids are welcome during the day, I’d reserve Flora-Bama for adults only: it’s raucous, crowded, and loud. During peak season, this huge complex of multiple rooms and stages boasts 21 different bars; during my visit, there were ‘only’ about ten. Legend has it Flora-Bama used to be a more understated affair, until Hurricane Ivan damaged it; when it was rebuilt, rooms were added wily-nilly. What stands today is a hodgepodge of hallways, rooms, and bars, with outdoor areas covered in tents with wood and sand floors (yes, it’s right on the beach). Live music plays, there’s a mechanical bull (and a full rodeo outside once a year), and apparently, women take their tops off a lot. Have a bushwhacker (Alabama’s favorite drink, as far as I can tell), and people watch!

Have you been to Alabama’s Gulf Coast? Where do you recommend eating?

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24 hours in Carpinteria CA with kids

If you’re not familiar, Carpinteria, California is a beach town just south of Santa Barbara that, in the three decades I’ve visited, has managed to retain its beach-town charm and distinct lack of city or suburbia influence. Located just off Highway 101, Carpinteria is characterized by sandy beach bungalows (each valued around a million dollars, of course), a quintessentially laid-back downtown of shops and diners, and a long, wide state beach dubbed ‘the safest’ in California, largely due to its lack of waves.

carpinteria ca

Families will find Carpinteria to be quieter than adjacent Santa Barbara, a bit more affordable, and easier to navigate. A weekend or overnight in Carpinteria is an ideal add-on to a trip to Orange County to visit Disneyland, or as a stop on iconic Highway 101. Here’s what not to miss in 24 in Carpinteria with kids:

Stay at the Best Western Plus Carpinteria Inn on Carpinteria Avenue, just blocks from the beach and the downtown sector. It’s easy for families to walk to the action (certainly with older kids, but also with kids in strollers), and is quieter and cheaper than the beach motels right on the water. The Best Western Plus has a wonderful garden courtyard that, I believe, is what elevates it to a ‘plus’. There’s also a small outdoor pool, and the rooms are oversized for a Best Western.

carpinteria

Where to eat and play:

Linden Avenue is Carpinteria’s main drag, with public parking at a lot adjacent, and many fun shops and dining opportunities. At the end of Linden is the public beach. Where to eat:

Nutbelly: This sandwich and pizza shop on Linden Ave has excellent sub sandwiches made to order, plus pro-biotic ciders and beers for the adults.

Island Brewing: On 6th Street, Island Brewing is one of the largest local breweries in the area, and worth the stop for a brew. Go adjacent to The Spot for burgers with the kids, then add a bottle from Island Brewing to the mix. Both locations are really close to the beach, which is a big plus.

Esau’s Coffee Shop: Esau’s was recommended to us as the best breakfast in Carpinteria, and it didn’t disappoint. Almost any time of day, Esau’s is hopping, so be patient and perhaps opt for the side patio dining outside. It’s located on Linden Ave, and has plenty of local character.

State beach: Plan to spend the majority of your day at the beach, which is wide and flat with gentle surf and swimming platforms, plus lifeguards on duty during the tourist season. The beach (and parking) is free, and there’s a state campground adjacent, with plenty of picnic tables and the like. You’ll find public restrooms a few blocks up Linden Ave.

Ready for a field trip to Santa Barbara? Check out Cold Spring Tavern:

cold spring tavern

This historic site and eatery is located in the hills overlooking Santa Barbara, about 25 minutes from Carpinteria. If you have a car, it’s well worth the drive. From Highway 101, take Highway 154 up the mountain top, then one mile down the valley side, turn left onto Stagecoach Road. Follow the signs to Cold Spring Tavern, which was once a stagecoach stop in the mid-18oos. Now a hodge-podge of historic buildings on the winding country highway, Cold Spring Tavern is popular with motorcycle groups as well as families. Get there in the morning for their breakfast menu, or come for lunch, when you can sample their tri-tip BBQ on weekends. Either way, check their hours (which do change by season) and plan to linger, exploring the grounds to see the jail (transported from Ojai), as well as other historic buildings tucked into the mountainside.

Tip: Don’t forget that Carpinteria (and adjacent Santa Barbara) are on the Amtrak line. Take the train from San Diego or Los Angeles, then enjoy the beach town sans car!

carpinteria

Have you been to Carpinteria CA with kids? Share your tips in the comments!

 

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Russian Tea at the Heathman Hotel Portland

The historic Heathman Hotel in Portland has offered a holiday tea service for decades. New in 2016, chef Vitaly Paley brought Russian flare to the service with his festive, elegant Russian Tea. Within days, all available reservations for the service, offered between November 25 and January 1, were filled.

Due to the popularity of the holiday tea service, there will be two seatings on Saturdays moving forward. Folks should call for the most accurate times available and reservations for seatings at 503/790-7752 for Saturday teas through 2017. 

russian-tea

The Russian Tea is beautifully presented in the Heathman’s tea room, adjacent to the new Headwaters restaurant. We sat near the big fireplace at a table adorned with an authentic Russian table and tea service. When I attended in December of 2016, we were given a choice of eight tea varieties, plus champagne or select cocktails. The teas ranged from a White Peony to classic black teas to an earthy green tea, all authentic Russian staples. I opted for the Bungalow, which is most similar to an English Breakfast black tea. The tea is presented in its own pot in loose leaf, with a delicate tea cup and strainer.

Russian-tea

Alongside the tea comes a three-tiered tray of accompaniments ranging from savory options like khachapouri (Georgian cheese bread), open-faced buteubrodi sandwiches, and stuffed eggs. A favorite was the traditional blini, small pancakes served with house-cured caviar and sour cream. Among the sweet offerings were tort po kievski, a hazelnut meringue coffee buttercream with chocolate ganache, a Russian cheesecake, and Bird’s Milk Cake, with a shortbread cookie crust. The star of the show may have been the steopka, a sour cream and walnut cake that is Paley’s grandmother’s recipe.

Needless to say, this meal is an event you should plan to linger over, enjoying each delicate cake and small bite. That said, kids are definitely welcome.

The kids’ service includes child-friendly versions of the adult offerings, including deviled eggs stuffed with milder flavors, flaky cheese bread, and almond butter and house preserves sandwiches. During our mid-afternoon tea service, we saw several children dressed in their holiday best, enjoying the experience. The Heathman is definitely upscale, but not stuffy. Consider pairing this event with a holiday show at the nearby Keller Auditorium.

heathman-hotel

If you go, the 2017 prices are likely similar to the 2016 holiday price of $38/adult and $16/child. While expensive, I feel the experience is unique and the price is justified. Definitely book your reservation early, calling 503-790-7752 to inquire when reservations open for the 2017 holiday season. Reservations can be made for 11 am, 1 pm, and 3 pm daily during the holidays.

tea-room

russian-tea

As I disclose whenever applicable, I experience the Russian Tea as a guest of the Heathman, for the purpose of review. 

Nebraska with kids: Where to play and eat in Omaha

Situated at the intersection of Interstate 80 and the Missouri River, the city of Omaha offers a surprisingly broad array of great attractions for families–and for Midwestern families, a vacation destination within driving distance of home. We’ve already covered Omaha’s world-class zoo, two of its museums, and the Holiday Inn Downtown. For more of a taste of where to eat in Omaha, read on:

omaha-nebraska

The Amazing Pizza Machine:

If you’re on the road and you need dinner and a place for the kids to stretch their legs for a while, try the Amazing Pizza Machine, a buffet, arcade, and fun-plex located in the southwest part of the metro area. Featuring an extensive buffet of pizza (the standard flavors as well as more creative types), salads, soups, desserts, baked potatoes, taco bar, pasta bar, and a nightly special, even the pickiest eaters will find something to their liking. The dining area was sparkling clean when we visited.

Every person who enters is required to purchase a buffet (prices here), but the Amazing Pizza Machine offers a number of dine-and-play packages. You can also buy a more extensive package for the kids while you sit in the relative quiet and peace of the dining area, which is at the far end of the building from the games and rides and has TVs everywhere.

The play area is expansive and varied, with all the usual things you’d expect to see at an arcade. When we were there, we only found one that was out of order. There are many different play packages, including one for unlimited games like pinball machines and rides (rides are Go Karts, bumper cars, a mini roller coaster that’s more intense than it looks, and Frog jumper). We found that for our family, with kids who aren’t used to amusement park rides, a ride or two apiece was plenty. Note: laser tag is available, but purchased separately from all packages.

Of particular note is the area for little ones, with a climbing structure and arcade games aimed at the younger set. Prices and crowding are lower during the week. However, that’s not always a good thing; Go Karts and bumper cars, for instance, are more fun with a crowd.

omaha-with-kids

A partial list of other things to do in the Omaha area:

A handful of shout-outs to places we stopped to eat:

  • The Ethnic Sandwich Shop: Housed in a red barn in a nondescript neighborhood, with outdoor seating only. If you want to picnic, this is your source. Serves hot and cold 8-inch subs, primarily Italian. We can recommend the Capone, the meatball sub, the Reba’s Boy, pasta salad and tossed salad. Bonus: the brownies and cookies! Location: 1438 S. 13th.
  • Dolci: Vanilla soft-serve ice cream with mix-ins, plus Italian desserts from napoleons to canoli. Bonus: adjacent to a candy store! Location: 1003 Howard St.
  • Cupcake Omaha: Cupcakes. Big cupcakes. Big, filled cupcakes. Need I say more? Location: 501 S. 11th.
  • Old Spaghetti Works: Pasta and fabulous, quirky decor (think carousel horses hanging from the ceiling and a salad bar housed in the bed of an antique truck). Most entrees come with salad bar, which is fairly basic but very fresh and very good. On a Monday night, our kids ate free. Location: 502 S. 11th street.

Whatever you do, make sure to download the Omaha Savings app, which is a streamlined, easy to use visual list of discounts usable at many of Omaha’s headline attractions.

Our family enjoyed the Amazing Pizza Machine as guests of Visit Omaha, in exchange for an honest review. Photo credit: Flickr Commons.

Dominican Republic with kids: Exploring Puerto Plata with Marysol Tours

If you find yourselves on the northern coast of the Dominican Republic near Puerto Plata, you’ve probably come to the island via Carnival or Fathom cruise, to Amber Cove port. (Most all-inclusive resorts are located at the far tip of the island at Punta Cana.) From Amber Cove, the town of Puerta Plata is only about 10 minutes away, and well worth a visit in your exploration of the area.

puerto-plata

You can get a ’top 10’ sort of tour through your cruise ship, but we recommend hiring a guide on your own. We used Marysol Tours, and found the experience far superior to a large bus tour.

The good:

We easily set up our day with Marysol Tours ahead of time, via email. From their site, simply go to the section on Puerto Plata city tours and email your preferred date and number in your party. We were a party of five, and had no trouble getting the day we needed. Francisco organizes the tours, and you’ll be well taken care of.

Puerto-Plata

Before our tour, we told Francisco we wanted to see some of the highlights of the city, including Fort San Filipe and Central Park, but also wanted the opportunity to make some changes to the set itinerary (anticipating we’d get recommendations once on the ship). I loved that Marysol Tours welcomed this flexibility. The price (listed below) was actually less than that of the big group tour, and we had the ability to make changes on the fly.

puerto plata colors

The standard city tour includes a tour of the rum factory in town, a visit to the amber museum (this area is rich in amber), a few minutes in the old city center with its Victorian homes and church, the San Filipe fort, a cigar factory, and a walk along the Malecon (ocean front). For an extra $10 each, visitors can also go up the cable car, which is the highest in the Caribbean with views overlooking the city.

puerto-plata

We decided we wanted to see everything except the cigar factory (which simply didn’t interest us), and we were obliged. We also skipped the cable car, since it was a foggy day, and our guide, Jesus, and driver, Ricardo, took us to a scenic overlook instead, which still gave us views of the city. At the rum factory, we were given the standard tour (with entrance fee covered), and at the city center, we visited the central square and church. This area was run down, but beautiful to see, despite some fairly aggressive locals hoping to show us around for tips. Nearby was an amber jewelry store, and we visited this instead of the museum. To us, this was more authentic because we met the jewelers and saw the process of making the jewelry they sold.

dominican-jewelry

We took a San Filipe fort tour in the same manner as the run factory (Jesus left us in the hands of the on-site tour operators), and then we walked along the waterfront adjacent. All of this was well-worth seeing.

san-filipe

The not so great:

After we visited the fort, we asked if we could end our tour at a restaurant recommended to us. Instead, Jesus and Ricardo first took us to another restaurant on their agenda, which was far too touristy for us, and we had to firmly explain that this wasn’t what we wanted. Despite assurances that we could deviate from the planned itinerary, it took a phone call to Francisco to explain our desires. Certainly, the tour company has an agenda they are trying to stick to. However, after a phone call to Francisco, Jesus was able to take us to Maimon, the tiny town on the other side of the port, where we had been told we could find some of the best seafood in the region. We told Jesus he could leave us here to eat, as it was only a few minutes’ taxi ride from the port, but he and Ricardo kindly returned for us after our meal. And yes, our meal was the best we had in the Dominican Republic. We highly recommend La Primo in Maimon.

seafood-in-maimon

The totally awesome:

When Jesus and Ricardo came to pick us up, we asked them where we could find a rare tropical fruit, guanoabana. Ricardo cheerfully took us on a wild goose chase to no fewer than four roadside fruit stands to find the after-dinner treat. Finding guanoabana made our day!

maimon

The bottom line:

We had to keep our wits about us to make sure we got the tour we wanted, but once we were clear about our needs, Marysol Tours went above and beyond. We had a very good, personalized tour of Puerto Plata.

Puerto-plata

Cost:

A city tour with Marysol Tours is $35 for adults and $18 for kids (free for lap children). As noted above, this is less than the pre-determined cruise excursions for a more personalized experience. Be sure to budget a little extra for a tip for your guide and driver.

Dominican-republic

Directions:

Marysol Tours will pick you up at Amber Cove. During our trip, they were not an official cruise partner, so we had to meet them just outside the main gate (by the highway) instead of in the terminal. It was about a 10 minute walk from our ship.

Puerto-Plata

Disclosure: We were given a media discount from Marysol Tours, for the purpose of review. I paid full price for the teens.

Best restaurants in Rome for non-foodies (plus eating in Italy tips):

Eating in Italy? You’re in for a treat! After eating our way through the country, I am here for you with tips for dining in Italy with kids, plus our picks for the best restaurants in Rome. Note: for Florence dining recommendations, read our Three Days in Florence with Kids article.

eating-in-italy

Best restaurants in Rome (by category):

Pizza:

Pizza Forum: This restaurant has a boring name, and looks and sounds touristy, but was recommended to us by our Italian tour guide. She was not wrong. In fact, while it’s located in a very touristy zone near the Forum, it was filling up with locals when we got there at 2 pm.

Panettoni: Located in the Trastevere area, we thought Panettoni served the best of the traditional Roman variety of pizza: it was light, thin, and flavorful.

Honestly, every other pizzeria in Rome calls itself the best. (Not unlike New York City pizza joints, actually.) Just about anywhere, you’ll find good pizza, especially if you stick to the basics. Really. Enjoy.

pizza-in-rome

Trattorias:

Armando al Pantheon: this little place is big on ambiance, in a perfect location for dining after an evening of souvenir shopping around the Pantheon. You can even visit Piazza Navona first, then dip out of that expensive dining area to pay much less for better food here.

Ristorante Pizzeria Imperiale (Largo Corrado Ricci, 37, by Coloseum): Another spot along the busy Colosseum and Forum area, this place as a nice outdoor patio (heated in winter), great seafood dishes, and above average pizza.

Cuccagna 14 (Via della Cuccagna): This bright and cheery trattoria just outside of Piazza Navona won us over with it’s twinkling lights and warm ambiance. Their bruschetta and antipasto was sourced completely by a local farm, and their lasagna was to die for.

Upscale Trattorias:

Il Bacaro: A super-friendly place near the Pantheon, we had great antipasto here and inventive second courses.

Ad Hoc: this cozy little hole-in-the-wall wine bar off Piazza Populo isn’t great for big families, but they can easily accommodate a group of four or less. (I’m sure they can accommodate more, but it would be a squeeze for you and the other diners.)

Faciolaro Ristorante Pizzeria (via dei Pastini by Pantheon): We ate one of our favorite meals here on New Year’s Eve. The grilled steak was a group favorite, and I loved the homemade pasta and excellent artichokes. Their open kitchen is fun, too…ask to sit in the dining area near it.

Gelato, coffee, and dessert:

There’s a little cafe right on the corner of the Jewish Ghetto by Piazza Venicia that serves excellent pastry and macchiato. Ask for the puff pastry with whipped cream. They’ll slice it for you on the spot, fill it with cream, and drizzle it with chocolate.

eating-in-florence

Cremeria Monteforte: I first found this gelato hot-spot ten years ago on my first trip to Rome. It was so good, I came back for more (Rick Steves swears by it, too). It’s located directly on the piazza of the Pantheon. Sit outside and eat with a view!

Come il Latte (Via Silvio Spaventa, 24): this place by Repubblica has some of the most authentic and homemade gelato in Rome. Plus, you can get flavored whipped cream on top.

Venchi: There are actually many Venchi shops across Italy, and the brand is a solid pick. Look for flowing chocolat calda (hot chocolate) and chocolate candies as well. We found one by the Spanish Steps, but youll see them elsewhere, too.

Note: Right off Piazza Navona, there’s a very average gelato shop with a very extraordinary server. I wish I could remember the name of the place, but it’s located on the far end of the piazza. We assume the server was the owner, because he was very animated, enthusiastic, and welcoming. He joked with the kids, added extra scoops to cones, and smiled at everyone who came in. This older gentleman made our night!

Rome dining tips:

Finding exact restaurant recommendations can be frustrating, since the streets are not in a grid pattern and you’ll likely be meandering until you’re hungry. Our rule of thumb: once you’ve found any major attraction or piazza, enjoy it, then walk one block down any connecting street for the best dining options. The restaurants directly on the piazzas will be higher priced and probably touristy, but just a matter of yards away, smaller, tucked away establishments beckon. This is your sweet spot.

Don’t overlook specialty stores and groceries. Look for meat and cheese counters where you can put together your own antipasto plate to eat at home, or make a picnic out of foods at pasta shops and wine bars.

antipasto-in-italy

Florence tips:

Florence and the great Tuscany region is known for their beef and spinach as well as their wine. If you order something in the ‘Florentine style’, it’s likely with spinach. And this is not the canned PopEye variety…you’re in for a treat. If ordering steak, as my teens love to do, be sure to ask how big it actually is. In Florence, it’s often sold (even in restaurants) by the kilogram. It’s not unusual for the steak to be the size of the dinner plate. Enjoy!

eating-in-italy

Florence can get very touristy, but head over the Ponte Vecchio and you’ll be in fewer crowds and find better prices. Enjoy afternoon gelato, and you may get away with simple antipasto in your room for a the kids’ dinner hour. There’s an upscale grocery store with an excellent cheese and meat counter located right over the bridge. Turn left at the second street and look for the blue sign.

General tips for eating in Italy:

During our trip through Florence, Pisa, Rome, and Naples, we found the following to be true nearly everywhere:

venchi-rome

  • Almost all restaurants around tourist areas will provide menus or menu boards out front. Look through prices before you’re pressured to go in. Primi or pasta courses in good trattorias will be in the 8-12 euro per person range. Secondi courses can reach 20-30 euros per person. There’s no need to order both a first and second course. We liked to order one antipasto plate for the table (see appetizer tip below) and one plate (primi, secondi, or pizza) per person.
  • Head to trattorias (cafes, casual) but don’t be afraid to venture into osterias (wine bars, pubs). Both are kid-friendly. In fact, just about everything is kid-friendly when it comes to the Italian food scene.
  • When ordering, beware of saying yes to suggested appetizers ‘for the table’. In Italy, this often means one per every person at the table (with the price multiplied accordingly). We made this mistake at a adorable trattoria near Piazza Navona when we ordered the suggested bruccetta. It was a happy mistake, as the plate was delicious, but still cost us an extra 25 euros.
  • Buy water for the table by the liter. Ditto for wine, if you’re on a budget. Water doesn’t come to the table automatically or complimentarily. Ordering it per person can be up to 2,50 euro a glass. Alternatively, a liter of water (size of an extra large water bottle) is usually around 3,50. We usually buy a few of these for the table, since we’re used to drinking a lot of water with our meals.
  • Wine is cheap and plentiful. Enjoy. We like to get a half liter or liter for the table, depending on how many adults will be drinking. Note for parents of teens: the legal drinking age is 16 (and younger kids will not be frowned upon for drinking wine either, FYI).
  • Soda, on the other hand, is often just as expensive as wine, and sometimes as expensive as water. When we want soda, which isn’t too often, we buy it by the liter in the grocery store, and let the kids drink it during pre-dinner ‘aperitif’.
  • So what IS aperitif? This is the Italian version of happy hour, but more refined. It’s usually between 6 pm and 8 pm, and involves wine or a cocktail intended to open the digestive track for the later dinner meal. It often comes with antipasto-type dishes. We found that with kids in tow, we didn’t bother going out for aperitif, but we did enjoy our own version in our rental apartment. We bought cheese, crackers, and salami in the grocery store, and paired them with wine for mom and dad and soda or juice for the kids. This tided us over until 8 pm or later for dinner out.
  • In and around the tourist hot spots in Rome and Florence, you’ll be hard-pressed to find restaurant staff who do not speak enough English to get you by. Even the less touristy establishments can help you pick out what you want to eat, and without exception, we found all restaurants to be friendly to us as Americans bumbling with our Italian.

What are your top tips for dining in Italy? I’d love to hear them!

Where to eat in Paris with kids…if you’re not a foodie

I will admit that before we arrived in the City of Lights, I was intimidated by the Paris dining scene. We don’t speak much French, we’re not foodies, and we don’t like snails (sorry). After spending five days in Paris with kids, well, I’m still intimidated by the Paris dining scene, but we ate there happily anyway. Here’s where to eat in Paris…and how.

where-to-eat-in-Paris

Hit up patisseries for breakfasts:

And snacks. And maybe lunch. We loved these French bakeries, which seemed to be on every corner in Paris, no matter which arrisondment we found ourselves in. Baguettes of crusty French bread cost less than €1, and French pastries, including eclairs and chocolate croissants (pain au chocolat) are about the same price. I guess it’s similar to going to a donut shop for breakfast every morning, but seems so much classier. And yummier. Our favorite bakery was Boulangerie Saint Michel, in the Latin Quarter, as well as the many near our apartment rental in Montmartre.

paris-pastries

Street vendors are king:

Instead of searching out kid-friendly cafes at lunch time, we ate street food. Lots and lots of street food. Not only was this option much more affordable than eating out, it was a time saver and frankly, delicious. The kids ate mostly crepes (they can be filled with things like Nutella and bananas to make them slightly more nutritious), as well as hot dogs (wrapped in baguette, of course). We adults ate a lot of quiche and baguette sandwiches, and never complained.

paris-food

We found street vendors to be most plentiful in the areas around major tourist attractions of course, including the Lourve, Notre Dame, Saint Michel, and the Concorde. Enjoy a buffet of street food along the rue between Notre Dame and the Hotel d’Ville, before you cross the ‘island’ to the other side of the Seine.

paris-crepes

Make your own picnic lunches (or dinners):

We loved sampling the wares at Paris street markets and in Paris cheese shops. Consider food shopping in Paris to be a combination of sight-seeing, souvenir-shopping, and dining. We created lovely picnic dinners to enjoy in our apartment after our legs were too tired to walk further. We shopped for cheese, cured meats, dried fruits, and baguette, and supplemented these items with crackers and inexpensive wine and juice from the grocery. Voila…dinner is served.

eating-in-Paris

Yes, you should try some restaurants, too:

We didn’t want to do anything fancy in Paris, but we did eat several tasty meals out in casual cafes. Our favorites were recommended in our itinerary created for us by Momaboard. Read more about Momaboard’s itinerary planning in our post on creating a Paris itinerary with kids.

Here are a few dining experiences their planner, a local parent, recommended:

  • Cafe Constant (139 Rue Saint-Dominique)
  • Cafe La Place Cambronne (5 Avenue Anatole)
  • les Cocottes (135 rue st Dominque)

paris-creperie

All of these dining establishments are kid-friendly, casual, and serve simple fare and rustic French cuisine (comfort food). We also tried several cafes in Montmartre, near Sacre Coeur. While this little square is very touristy, we found friendly waiters here willing to hear out our rudimentary French, good mussels and frites (fries), and a cheery ambiance. Go just below Sacre Coeur to the bottom of the steps, and the cafe on the corner there makes for a nice date night out for parents with that luxury.

Where do you like to eat in Paris with kids? We know we only scratched the surface!