Grown-up getaway - Pitstops for Kids

Grown Up Getaway: Eureka California wine and cider weekend

March 15, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

A wine weekend in…Eureka? Yes, California’s rugged northern ‘lost coast’ can make for an ideal grown-up getaway, provided you know where to go. Parents will feel completely away from it all, with cell service cutting delightfully in and out with each curve of Highway 101. The scenery is spectacular, the shopping and art scene funky and fun, and the cuisine is original, yet suburb.

Eureka California wine and cider weekend:

Eureka, California is about five hours north of San Francisco, up the windy coastal highway, Highway 101. We approached it from the north; Eureka is about 1.5 hours from Crescent City, California and four hours from our home in Southern Oregon. Either way, it’s far enough to feel transported. (I think we felt truly relaxed as we left the Redwood Highway by the California/Oregon border and turned south along the coastline.)

Stay at Carter House:

Eureka is known for their oysters, not their wineries, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find 100 point wines in town. Carter House is touted as a bed and breakfast, but we decided we’d consider it a closer cousin to a boutique hotel. With over 30 rooms in three Victorian buildings in the heart of historic downtown Eureka, Carter House has a beautiful bar with a 90-page wine list, including offerings from wineries such as Silver Oak, LaFite, and George Latour, and a wine cellar on premises that guests can tour (actually three wine cellars). Their Restaurant 301 is well-known in the area for their philosophy of local sourcing and seasonal ingredients; in fact, they have their own gardens across the street.

Our room at the Carter House was small but beautiful, with a jetted tub and the tall ceilings you can expect in a historic building. Downstairs, the bar and lobby areas invite guests to mingle for complimentary appetizers and wine during happy hour, and again at 8 pm, where complimentary tea and cookies are set out by the fireplace.

We wished the check-in desk was located slightly apart from the sitting areas of the lobby, as it took away from the ambiance, but during a three-day stay, this was our only complaint. We made a reservation at Restaurant 301 our first night, and were not disappointed. (I recommend the French onion soup, made from scratch on premises.) Guests can order wine by the glass or by the bottle during dinner or in the bar, and can expect bottle prices to start at around $50-60 and top out at a stunning $12,000. While such a wine was beyond our means by about $11,950, we enjoyed pursuing the menu. Restaurant 301 also offers a five-course tasting menu with wine pairings, for about $100 per person. Our meal with wine, appetizers, and an entry each was just over $100 for two, so we opted for the a la carte menu, but were tempted by the pairings. The bar has happy hour food to sample as well, such as truffle fries or rolled tacos, if you’re not up for a full meal.

At Carter House, guests are within walking distance of the rest of historic Eureka, which showcases an impressive number of restored Victorian buildings hugging the waterfront. (Outside the historic downtown area, Eureka gets significantly more dingy; anyone familiar with small, isolated towns with struggling economies will relate. We never felt unsafe; we just preferred the historic center while on a weekend vacation.) Within the historic downtown, we found multiple additional restaurants, including an additional wine bar called The Wine Spot with great selection and a friendly staff. There are also several art galleries, specialty shops, and bookstores. We recommend Humboldt Bay Bistro, Cafe Nooner, and Oberon Grille, all located within walking distance. You can also walk easily to the marina, located just a block from Carter House.

What you get for your room rate at Carter House:

No matter which room you book, a Carter House stay includes breakfast (hence the B&B designation), which is excellent. Each day, breakfast included a generous and gourmet continental breakfast buffet with fresh juices, baked goods, and fruit and granola, plus a complimentary menu of oatmeal, yogurt, toast, and the like. One special per day is also included complimentarily; during our stay, it was eggs Benedict and French toast.

You also get the nightly appetizers and tea/cookies that are set out in the lobby, and one glass of complimentary wine in the wine bar (one per person per stay, not per day). WiFi and parking are free, and the ambiance is warm. The staff is helpful and welcoming, and we found the room rate (in off-season) of $200 per night to be a good value.

Taste wine across the Eureka area:

In addition to the impressive wine cellar at Carter House, there are a number of small, but up-and-coming wineries in the area. Recommended to us were:

Persimmons Garden Gallery & Wine Tasting This winery is also a nursery, art gallery, wine bar, and cafe. 1055 Redway Dr., Redway.
Riverbend Cellars Located on the Eel River, Riverbend is producing Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah. 12990 Avenue of the Giants, Myers Flat.
Elk Prairie Vineyard For a remote tasting room experience, Elk Prairie’s wares can be sampled, above Humboldt Redwoods State Park.

Sip brews for grown-ups:

Eureka is home to Lost Coast Brewing and nearby Humboldt Brewing, so beer lovers will be content, but we love finding unique cider breweries, and were very impressed with Humboldt Cider Co. It’s located east of downtown in a residential area near the Eureka fairgrounds, and actually hard to find from the street (you’ll find it off Harris St). You need to go inside the parking area just past the fairgrounds, where a few other businesses are located, and it feels like you’re going to the wrong place, but once you get there, it’s great. They have a small but cutely decorated tasting room, and during our visit, had ten ciders on tap. We opted for a tasting of all ten for $17, which we happily shared. Their ciders ranged from very dry, hoppy brews to sweet brews laced with local honey or candied pecans…. we loved the honey one so much we bought a growler full to bring home.

Note: If you’re willing to go a bit further afield, try Bittersweet Sea Cider in Arcata.

Hiking and nature:

Between sipping wine and cider, we made our way down the coast about 40 miles to the Avenue of the Giants, located within Humboldt Redwoods State Park. This large park has multiple entrances and exits along Highway 101, with the headliner being the Avenue of the Giants, a 30+ mile roadway through towering redwoods. The ‘Ave’ used to be the original Highway 101, before it was rerouted, and driving through can take just an hour or so or all day, depending on how many times to stop to hike through the various redwood groves. You really can’t go wrong picking a path to hike; we tried several couple-mile loops, then ended up at the visitor center, located at about the halfway point along the Ave.

If you go north instead of south from Eureka, Patricks Point State Park is located directly on the rocky coastline by Trinidad, and offers multiple hiking loops and beach walks. There’s also a small visitors center, though we didn’t check it out, and campgrounds. The Inn of the Lost Coast is located at the end of Patricks Point Road at Shelter Cove, and has a causal eatery with ocean views for lunch. The seaside town of Trinidad itself is a great stop, with an iconic lighthouse and cute harbor for small fishing boats. You can explore small but beautiful Trinidad State Park, or just head to the adjacent city beach to watch the surf.

En route back toward Eureka, we decided to stop at Loleta Cheese Factory (at 252 Loleta Dr.). We were expecting a large cheese operation in this sleepy coastal town, but instead, found the factory to be in a small house. We took a chance and checked it out, and are so glad we did. This little cheese factory has amazing cheeses (all available for sampling), and best of all, in the back resides a grilled cheese bar, serving inventive sandwiches headlining their cheeses. Guy Fieri has featured it in Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives (in fact, he’s recommended several establishments in the Eureka area, his home county). In the back of the grilled cheese bar area is a beautiful garden, which is inviting in the warmer months.

Tip: If you’re following this itinerary WITH kids in tow, this cheese shop would be a great stop; they even offer a fun scavenger hunt for kids when they arrive. Of course, all the hiking in Humboldt Redwoods State Park would be a excellent way to spend time as well.

During the summer months, it’s easy to rent kayaks or stand up paddle boards in Eureka or neighbor Arcata, and beach-going and picnicking is a popular pastime. Don’t be afraid of visiting Eureka during the off-season, however. We visited in February, and found the hotels to still be bustling, and the room rates to be slightly lower. While it rained during our visit, the chances of rain are significant during any time of year.

Have you been to Eureka or the Lost Coast for a weekend getaway? Where did you stay?

Photo credit: Unique Inns, Amy Whitley

Grown Up Getaway: Portland Alberta Arts District and Tiny House Hotel

January 11, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Whether you’re intrigued with the idea of building or buying your own tiny house one day, or simply want to sample the tiny house lifestyle for a few nights, a stay at the nation’s only tiny house hotel should definitely be on your radar. Caravan, a tiny house hotel, is located in Portland’s up-and-coming Alberta Arts District, making it an ideal overnight during a grown-up getaway.

Caravan Tiny House Hotel:

Caravan is comprised of six tiny houses circled around a covered, outdoor fire pit and outdoor seating area, within a gated lot in the heart of the Alberta district. Parents can certainly bring kids to Caravan, as several of the houses sleep four or five, but given its location on Alberta Street, lined with upscale eateries, bars, and boutiques, we think it serves best for a couples-only or solo getaway.

The tiny houses at this tiny house hotel range in size, but all are from 120-170 square feet. They’re built by local builders, and have their own personalities. Inside each are design elements that are fun, funky, and creative. Each has a flush toilet and hot shower, electric heat, a sitting area, sleeping areas, and a kitchen (with sink, hot plate or stove top, microwave, mini fridge, and cooking utensils). We stayed in Skyline, one of the larger tiny houses with a queen-sized bed, loft area with couch (that transforms to another bed), kitchen, and bathroom. Skyline was made of 100% recycled materials, which we loved. We had warm linens and quilts at our disposal, as well as an Italian coffee maker and coffee (bring your own creamer if you need it). In the bathroom, fair-trade shampoo and body wash was provided, as well as big, fluffy towels.

The tiny houses are insulated, but since Caravan is in the heart of a busy urban area, there is some noise pollution. Earplugs are provided, as well as a noise machine in each tiny house. We couldn’t get ours to work quite right, so I’ll definitely bring my own sound machine if I make it back! It really wasn’t a big deal…we were in the tiny house on a weeknight, and the street noise settled down early. Out in the communal outdoor space, Caravan’s owners have thoughtfully provided everything guests need to make a fire in the fire pit and roast s’mores (including gluten-free graham crackers and vegan marshmallows). During our stay, only one other tiny house was occupied, so the communal area remained pretty quiet.

The tiny houses at Caravan are popular, especially on weekends (when there’s a two night minimum) so be sure to book well in advance if you want to pick your favorite. Rates are around $150/night, which is a great value. I’d definitely stay here again in lieu of booking a similarly priced standard hotel room in the suburbs. At Caravan, you get a boutique hotel feel with an artistic, creative ambiance in an excellent location.

Alberta Arts District:

Caravan is located at 11th Avenue and Alberta Street, in the northeast section of Portland. This area is across the Willamette from downtown, so couples staying at the tiny house hotel will probably want to leave the car parked and explore Alberta Street rather than drive back downtown for nightlife. And there’s plenty to do within a five block radius. We opted to spend our evening in the Alberta Arts District creating our own ‘progressive dinner’. We started at the Devil’s Den wine bar, where we sampled local and European wines with the assistance of the owner, Tommy. Devil’s Den is perhaps the most unpretentious, low-key wine bar I’ve been in. After a glass of wine, we walked further down Alberta Street, window shopping as we went. Past the Alberta Co-Op are numerous food truck pods, all of which tempted us. But we set our sights on a cocktail and appetizer at Knock Back, near Alberta and 20th. With heated outdoor seating and a killer cocktail menu, we settled in nicely here. If you go, opt for a bowl of their signature popcorn for $3…it’s worth every penny.

After drinks and appetizers, we headed to Bollywood Theater for dinner. This casual Indian restaurant serves full meals or small plates, with a fun, upbeat ambiance and Bollywood movies playing on the walls. Bonsai Sushi is also in the neighborhood (also a contender for our progressive dinner), and many other small restaurants and the aforementioned food trucks. Next to Bollywood Theater was our last stop: Salt and Straw ice cream. Well known throughout Portland and internationally, Salt and Straw makes their homemade ice cream with inventive, artisan flavors like honey and lavender, pear and blue cheese, and strawberry and balsamic.

Needless to say, we practically had to roll ourselves ‘home’ to Caravan after our evening of food and drinks. We made a cedar plank fire in the fire pit and settled in under the protective canopy outside Skyline. In the morning, I slept through the yoga class down the street I’d planned to attend, and we ate our final meal in the Alberta Arts District at Pine State Biscuits, which serves homemade biscuits on breakfast sandwiches, with fried chicken, or smothered in mushroom or sausage gravy.

If you go:

Book Caravan in advance, though you might luck out with an open tiny house at the last minute.
Know that room service is available from the Radio Room, located across the street.
Feel secure with locked gate entry to Caravan’s pod of tiny houses, plus a code on each house.
Expect free street parking anywhere in the vicinity.
Plan on a 10 minute drive from the Alberta Arts District to downtown.
Look for local events and things to do on an outdoor sign by the fire pit.

We stayed at Caravan as guests of the owners, for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.

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Grown-Up Getaway: Sundance Resort Utah

November 7, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

You probably don’t need an excuse to plan a luxurious grown-up getaway this fall or winter, but just in case, I’ve got the ultimate: a stay at Sundance Resort. An easy commute from Salt Lake City, Sundance is located in the heart of the Wasatch Mountains directly under the shadow of dramatic Mt. Timpanogos. It’s affectionately known as ‘Bob’s place’, for founder and owner Robert Redford. And yes, he still spends ample time here.

In summer and fall, Sundance is a prime location for hiking, biking, and generally communing with nature, and in winter, its ski resort offers 450 acres of terrain. All year round, guests can enjoy Sundance’s stellar spa, art studio (with classes), yoga, meditation, and fine dining.

Why I recommend Sundance for the grown ups:

Don’t get me wrong: Sundance Resort is equipped to accommodate kids. It has refreshingly low lift ticket rates, which appeal to families, and the woodsy setting will certainly make kids feel at home. The thing is, you may not want them there. Sundance’s vibe is decidedly serene, with an emphasis on self-reflection, revitalization, and pampering. Imagine yourself sliding into your private jacuzzi tub or chilling on your deck in an adirondack chair, cocktail in hand…without kids to supervise.

The feeling of relaxation starts before you arrive. The drive from Salt Lake City (I came from the airport) takes about 45 minutes, the last few winding through a slotted canyon as you climb into the mountains. Immediately, you feel isolated from the bustle of the valley, a feeling that’s reinforced when you visit the reception center then wind uphill to find your accommodation tucked into the trees. The entire resort feels very intimate and manageable: you won’t see big parking lots or lodge buildings.

Lodging at Sundance:

I stayed in a studio suite about a 10 minute walk from the reception area. Lodging ranges from rooms and condos (of which there are 100) to a smaller selection of mountain homes. Condos range from studios to three-to-four bedrooms. My studio included a kitchenette (microwave, sink, coffee maker, and mini-fridge with counter space), a wood-burning fireplace, sitting area, large bathroom with jacuzzi tub, bedroom area with one of the most comfortable beds I’ve ever slept in, and a porch with chairs overlooking a creek and woods. The entire space was decorated with purpose: it was artsy, warm, and inviting.

Dining and shopping:

Sundance is known for boutique shopping, high dining, and outdoors-pursuits. In the central area at the base of the hill (by the reception area) is Sundance’s main shop, with everything you’d find in the Sundance catalogue, from jewelry to boutique clothing to logo items. Across the street, the small art studio offers classes as well as fine art. In fact, Sundance hires two glassblowers to be on staff seasonally, who make all of the resort’s glassware.

Sundance has a marketplace with items like sandwiches, smoothies, and pastries, plus candy and snacks to buy a la carte. The Foundry is what Sundance calls its ‘casual’ dining restaurant, but I might beg to differ (in a good way). The log cabin feel of the room is both warm and elegant; don’t miss the wall-to-wall mural at the back. You can get breakfast, lunch, and dinner here; we ate a wonderful breakfast before skiing.

Sundance’s signature restaurant is the Tree Room, where I dined surrounded by the private art and native artifact collections of Robert Redford himself. The dining experience here is exquisite, with impeccable service and a deep wine list. Expect to pay at least $30-40 per entree, but also prepare to be very satisfied with the experience. The atmosphere in the Tree Room is certainly refined, but not in a stuffy way. We had a lively group who loved socializing, and we felt right at home.

Also not to be missed: The Owl Bar, located adjacent to the Foundry. This rustic (yet again, somehow elegant) bar is the ideal apres ski spot, with craft cocktails served over the bar that once stood in Thermopiles, Wyoming during the late 1890s. Its most famous guests back in the day: Butch Cassidy and his gang. You can get appetizers and small plates in the Owl Bar, as well as beer on tap.

The Spa at Sundance:

My massage therapist at Sundance told me that she has clients who fly into Sundance and book a stay solely for the spa. After the most in-depth facial I’ve ever had, I can see why. The spa is located amid the lodging rooms at Sundance, and like the rest of the resort, it’s small and intimate. When I arrived, I was shown a place to change and given a Sundance tote bag to store my belongings (no locker rooms here). I was next directed to a chair by the fireplace, where I enjoyed a hot stone foot soak pre-treatment. The spa has a full line of services.

Outdoor recreation at Sundance:

Every day during our stay, complimentary yoga and meditation classes were offered at the yoga yurt at Sundance. There are also numerous walking and jogging trails. In summer, you’ll find horseback riding, mountain biking, and golf. In winter, there’s both a downhill skiing resort and nordic center for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. The downhill resort has just one base area (right by the shop and Foundry), with its own rental center, small pro shop, and lift. Three additional lifts connect the first to a total of 45 runs.

Would I come for the skiing? Maybe not…after all, Sundance has some stiff competition in that department in the region. However, at Sundance, it’s about the overall experience: no lift lines, great service, wonderful food, a relaxed atmosphere. I’d be hard pressed to name a more beautiful ski area, as you ski directly below stunning Mt. Timpanogos. If you go, absolutely take a ski break at the top for some nachos at Bearclaw Cabin; you’ll feel as though you’re at the top of the world.

Rates:

Rates begin at about $395 per night, and go upward from there. However, rates vary widely by season and room type, and come with major perks: rooms come with two complimentary lift tickets, as well as first tracks privileges. You also get free yoga and other wellness classes. Some rooms do include full kitchens and lofts for kids; if you do bring the family, you’ll want this amenity because eating every meal out would get very expensive. Without the kids, I’d splurge on the wonderful dining opportunities.

Directions:

Sundance is located at 8841 N. Alpine Loop Road . From Salt Lake City, get onto I-80 east. Then turn right onto I-215 heading south. Next take I–15 South towards Provo. Continue on I-15 to exit #272 (which is 800 North in Orem) turn left heading east. Stay on 800 North through Orem to the mouth of the canyon. Stay in left hand lane, which will drop onto Hwy 189. Continue up the canyon approximately 7 miles to Scenic Route #92 which is the first left after the tunnel. Sundance is 2 miles up the canyon on the left.

Disclosure: I was a guest of Sundance Resort for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.

New England weekend getaways ideal for fall

September 7, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Love Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, and Nantucket, but want to escape the summer crowds and peak season pricing? Enjoy the best New England weekend getaways in autumn! The peaceful calm and untouched beauty that linger in the off-season reveal a region that is ideal for family reunions and weekend getaways.

Sea Crest Beach Hotel:

Cape Cod’s quintessential family beach retreat on Buzzard’s Bay, Sea Crest Beach Hotel is home to the most family-friendly accommodations on the Cape: a three-bedroom cottage that sleeps up to eight guests and provides plenty of indoor and outdoor space for entertaining. It features three bedrooms and three bathrooms, a spacious living room, open kitchenette, washer and dryer, expansive deck, and a private backyard ideal for family games and entertaining. Surrounded by privacy hedges, the yard is designed for outdoor entertaining. Guests can enjoy an open-air breakfast on the deck’s dining set, take a sunset stroll down Old Silver Beach and roast marshmallows in the backyard fire pit under the stars. Fall rates for Sea Crest’s cottage start at $649 per night.

Harbor View Hotel:

Martha’s Vineyard’s most storied landmark located in the heart of Edgartown, Harbor View Hotel has five spacious Captain’s Cottages containing 18 luxury suites with up to three bedrooms. Named for Edgartown sea captains, the cottages are fitted with interiors that evoke classic Vineyard style and breezy seaside ambience, gas fireplaces, pull-out sofas to accommodate extra guests, wet bars, washer/dryers and the latest in entertainment technology. Kitchenettes are equipped with small refrigerators, microwaves, dishwashers, coffee machines and kitchenware. The cottages, along with the hotel’s expansive indoor and outdoor venue spaces, make Harbor View Hotel the prime location to host weddings, anniversary parties or large business meetings. Fall rates for the Captain’s Cottage suites start at $679 per night.

Harbourview Nantucket:

Harbourview, the region’s premiere oceanfront hotel, is comprised of 11 fully furnished cottages that take the stress out of planning multi-generational family trips and group getaways. Located just steps from the harbor, the waterfront enclave is home to a private beach and expansive lawn for a stunning seaside ceremony and tented reception. Cottage accommodations range from one to four bedrooms and boast full kitchens, spacious living and dining areas, washer/dryers, exterior balconies and beautifully appointed interiors designed in Nantucket’s tradition of simple elegance. While serenely private, the hotel’s close proximity to downtown provides guests hassle-free access to fantastic restaurants and nightlife. Fall rates start at $550 per night.

Beachside vacation living on Nantucket, MA

Kelley House:

Martha’s Vineyard’s iconic establishment and one of the oldest hotels in America, Kelley House offers comfortable and welcoming accommodations spread amongst four classic houses and cottages that are equipped with all of the necessities. The hotel’s intimate atmosphere keeps large groups in close quarters while also providing guests with ample privacy to unwind after draining days together. And, its prime location in Edgartown provides guests with easy access to the beach, the Food and Wine Festival in October, holiday season chowder festivals, art fairs and the best shopping values. Fall rates start at $135.

Which hotel and New England autumn getaway location is best for your family?

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Three Oregon getaways to take without the kids

November 14, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Yes, we’re all about traveling with kids, but let’s face it: sometimes, Mom and Dad need to get away…solo. If you’re looking for a parents-only getaway in the Northwest, it’s hard to beat Oregon. Not to toot my home state’s horn too loudly, but we do have it all: nature and outdoors pursuits, wineries and farm-to-fork restaurants, and city sophistication. If you’re ready to get away, pick a date, and enjoy any of the following Oregon getaways…without the kids.

couples-getaway

Hint: couples getaways make for great holiday gifts to a spouse!

Hood River:

We were lucky enough to experience Hood River, Oregon while on a LifeCycle Adventures customized cycle tour through the Columbia River Gorge. If the idea of biking along scenic byways past fruit stands in the shadow of Mt. Hood appeals to you, I recommend booking a tour. But you can experience Hood River via a short drive from Portland, too.

Where to stay:

villa-columbia

We called the Villa Columbia home. This B&B is situated at the edge of downtown Hood River, overlooking the impressive Columbia. From the patios, watch kite boarders ‘surf’ the waves of the river, or just relax in the cozy living room of this beautiful home. If you’re cycling or paddle boarding during your stay, the villa has a full downstairs storage area for your gear, and our suite had a large jacuzzi tub and great views.

Breakfast at Villa Columbia is artfully created and served by owner Bobba, who is inspired by her Eastern European roots in her cooking (though she tells us she does not use recipes…fresh, local ingredients are all that’s needed). During our stay, we ate yogurt and granola topped with local berries and melon, then a savory crepe filled with local heirloom tomatoes, avocado, and feta cheeses.

villa-columbia

Where to eat:

You cannot go wrong with a stroll through downtown Hood River…any restaurant you choose will be great. If you’re looking for a brewery, we had a nice casual meal overlooking the river at Full Sail Brewery, where we sampled flights of beer that paired well with artisan burgers and good old fashioned fries.

For a more intimate dinner, check out the 6th Street Bistro, which also serves a lighter lunch on its patio and in the upstairs bar area. The salads are excellent, as are the beers and ciders on tap. Speaking of which, if cider is your thing, stop by Fox Tail Cider en route to Hood River, where over 10 local ciders are on tap. You can get a flight here as well (for as little as $7) or pick one to sip while pursuing their fruit stand.

What to do:

cycling-my-hood

No trip to Hood River would be complete without a drive along the Fruit Loop. This network of fruit stands and orchards span across the Columbia River Gorge, and are open for business from spring through fall. Pick up a Fruit Loop map (available just about anywhere in town) and head out for a day of fruit sampling, picnicking, and generally having a leisurely time of it.

If you’re up for something more strenuous, take a walk or bike ride along the Historic Columbia River Highway. This pedestrian and cycling-only road was once the main thoroughfare along the Gorge, and is now the perfect route for cyclists, runners, and walkers looking for great views of the river and Gorge. If walking, we recommend the hike from the parking area at Mark O. Hatfield Trailhead (west) to the first observation area along the river. If cycling, it’s possible to do the whole highway to the tiny town of Mosier in about an hour (then an hour back).

Willamette wine country:

bergstrom-willamette-valley

If your idea of a perfect parent getaway involves a winery or two, head to the Willamette Valley. Meander through the towns of Newberg and Dundee, tasting wines throughout any afternoon (though weekends are best), then end up in McMinnville for the night.

Where to stay:

Hands down, you must stay at A’ Tuscan Estate. We’re not always sold on B&Bs, but a vacation without the kids is a good opportunity to try one. You won’t be disappointed with A’ Tuscan Estate. Located about five blocks from the downtown streets, this property is actually a pair of homes. We stayed in the smaller Craftsman home, where we had the entire downstairs floor. We had use of a full kitchen, living space, dining area, bedroom, and bathroom, plus access to an outdoor garden and sitting area. We didn’t need this much room, but had we so chosen, we could have made dinner in with ingredients from a farmer’s market instead of eating out. A nice touch.

a-tuscan-estate

Be ready to be wowed in the mornings, while enjoying breakfast made by owner Jacques, who has a long and storied career in the culinary arts. Jacques served us a decadent quiche, homemade pastries, and local fruit, and told us guests must stay at his property for 17 nights before the breakfast menu will be repeated.

Note: if a B&B just isn’t your thing, we highly recommend the boutique hotel Allison Inn, located nearby.

Where to eat:

When not being pampered by Jacques, head downtown in McMinnville to eat at La Rambla, a Spanish cuisine establishment with a great vibe. La Rambla is casual but intimate, which to me, means romantic without being stuffy. There’s a great bar at La Rambla, an extensive wine list, and great tapas. Before deciding, however, it’s a good idea to check the ‘board’ a block away at Thistle, the local farm-to-fork offering. Thistle’s chalk board menu is constantly revolving…during our stay, we preferred the offerings at La Rambla, but it could have just as easily gone the other way.

What to do:

bergstrom-winery

You’re in wine country, so the #1 activity during your weekend away will be wine tasting. (Yes, it’s a hard life.) Pinot Noir is the variety of choice here, and you’ll find the best offerings in Dundee, Newberg, and McMinnville. We headed out to the Chehalem Mountains region of the valley, where we could hit Adelsheim, known regionally for their pinot, then Bergstrom (right up the street). Each have a very different feel: at Adelseim, you’ll get detailed tasting notes at a sleek granite bar, and at Bergstrom, you can sit on the patio overlooking the vineyards and chat and laugh with friends.

Grape Escape tour guide Oregon wine country

If you’re just not sure where to go, I recommend hiring Grape Escape for the day. These guys know Willamette wine, and will take couples around the valley, making stops at suggested wineries (or your picks). We had a great day with Grape Escape, and can’t wait to do it again.

Portland:

Living in Oregon, we enjoy many Portland weekend getaways. Most of the time, we experience Portland with kids, but every once in a while, we need to get away solo. Our ideal Portland Oregon getaway…without the kids…looks a bit like this:

Where to stay:

hotel-monaco

When it comes to boutique hotels in Portland, everyone has their favorites. We are admitted fans of Kimpton Hotels, so our picks for a quintessential Portland experience with or without the kids include RiverPlace, Hotel Vintage Plaza, and Hotel Monaco Portland, all of which have been reviewed on Pit Stops for Kids.

On our most recent visit, we crashed at Hotel Monaco (our ultimate fave), in a king premiere suite. For the first half hour or so after checking in, we just basked in the luxury of it, from the jacuzzi tub to the plush robes to the sitting room area with downtown views. I adore Hotel Monaco’s high ceilings, quirky decor, and fun furniture.

hotel-monaco-pdx

We came to our senses in time to remember Hotel Monaco’s happy hour downstairs, and got ourselves a glass of Oregon pinot on the house, then played a game of giant Janga. Yes, that’s a thing. The Hotel Monaco lobby is more like a living room, with drinks set out, comfy sofas and a fireplace, and usually, a resident dog.

I love the mini bar offerings in Hotel Monaco rooms (and the ample mini fridge space for those dinner leftovers) and the doormen and front desk staff are exceptionally helpful with directions and reservations. Every time I’m here, I truly feel welcomed back and pampered…a feeling that’s rarer and rarer in travel.

hotel-monaco-pdx

In the mornings, I like to exercise at Hotel Monaco (the exercise room is on the 9th floor, so there’s no need to traipse through the lobby while sweaty), then grab Starbucks coffee or hot chocolate with all the fixings in the lobby. There’s coffee in the room, too, of course, as well as wifi. Just become a Kimpton member to access wifi for free…easy peasy!

Parking at Hotel Monaco is a valet affair, but reasonably priced for the city. If you drive a hybrid car, expect to pay half rate! We recommend leaving your car with the valet and taking MAX or walking through downtown Portland…no need to hassle with it again.

Where to eat:

Portland happy hour

We’ve rounded up a number of fun happy hour spots in the city. You can’t go wrong with any of the above, but should you not want to leave your hotel, the Red Star Tavern is attached to Hotel Monaco. They have a good happy hour menu of small plates, and inventive cocktails. Their bar is lively but chill, and couples can as easily cozy up in a booth instead up belly up to the bar.

Interested in comfort food? Check out Mother’s Bistro, located at . Mother’s is our go-to pick for soups, mac and cheese, and other wintery weather fare when Portland is experiencing its signature drizzle, and has a killer brunch on Sunday mornings (it will be crowded!).

Prefer to eat on the go? We love Portland food trucks! Located in designated pods around the downtown sector of the city, food truck fare ranges from gourmet pasta dishes to inventive burgers to ramen noodles. Grab something and eat it along the Willamette, on a bench overlooking the water.

What to do:

We love walking or hiking through Portland parks or enjoying a leisurely browse through Powell’s. This cavernous bookstore takes up an entire city block, and includes a coffee shop. You’ll need a map to navigate it all (available at the entrances) and without the kids in tow, you can expect to be there a while.

Portland Tom McCall Park

If you hit Portland during a weekend from spring through fall, the Portland Saturday Market is a must. Located under the Burnside Bridge, this outdoor market and street faire will keep you busy all day. Stroll through the stalls, people-watch, and sample local produce and artisan foods. Tip: start here, then spend your late afternoon at Powell’s.

On sunny days, a walk through Portland’s Pearl District or a drive out of the city through the Columbia Gorge can be a great day trip. Head out I-84 and stop at Multnomah Falls, then detour onto the historic river highway. After all, you’re in no rush!

Couples getaway: Oregon cycle tour with LifeCycle Adventures

October 22, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

At Pit Stops for Kids, we’re fans of adventurous travel for kids, so it will come as no surprise that when we want to get away for an adults-only vacation, my husband Charlie and I prefer an active, outdoorsy pursuit of our own.

We also love wineries, outside-the-box local lodging, and farm-to-fork dining, indulgences absolutely possible to enjoy with kids, but— if we’re being honest here —even more enjoyable as a couples getaway. How to combine everything we like into one getaway? We found LifeCycle Adventures, an Oregon cycle tour company that offers customized cycling getaways.

Check it out!

LifeCycle Adventures hosts tours in Oregon, California, Hawaii, and the San Juan Islands of Washington. Because their Oregon tour routes are in our backyard, we headed to Portland, where we overnighted downtown at Hotel Monaco PDX (our favorite Kimpton hotel) before meeting LifeCycle Adventures owner Tony Blakey for a three-day ride.

Tony’s Oregon itineraries include a Willamette Valley tour, focusing on area wineries and featuring rolling terrain and quaint college towns, and a Columbia River Gorge tour, which takes cyclists around Mt. Hood before dropping them into the spectacular Columbia River Gorge at Hood River. We sampled a bit of both, so I could tell all you cycling parents out there which to book. As it turns out, we couldn’t decide which we liked better, so the good news is, you can’t go wrong.

Willamette Valley experience:

LifeCycle Adventures’ Willamette routes take cyclists from the outskirts of Portland through Forest Grove to McMinnville or Newberg, both in the heart of wine country. I say ‘routes’ instead of ‘route’ because every tour is customizable. Before embarking, we had communication with Tony via email or phone, during which we outlined our cycling experience (not much) and our objectives for our trip (to work up just enough of a sweat to ‘earn’ nice meals each evening). From our information, Tony compiled three route options per day, all ending at the same lodging location but offering various mileage. We could then choose our route as late as the day-of, after assessing sore muscles.

We started our journey with a quite easy 20 mile ride from beautiful Stewart ‘Stub’ State Park along the Banks-Vernonia State Trail, which is a car-free bike path. At the tiny town of Banks, we transitioned to quiet country highways en route to Forest Grove. We had a great lunch at Maggie’s Buns, then transferred by van (hello, Tony!) to our accommodations in McMinnville. Along the way, we stopped at several Willamette Valley wineries, which we absolutely could have accessed on bike, had we wanted to ride all the way into town.

Along the way, Tony was only a phone call away, should we need him or the services of his passenger van, outfitted with bike racks, extra water bottles, the rest of our luggage, and plenty of Clif Bars.

We spent the night at A’ Tuscan Estate, a quiet and understated B&B located just a few blocks from downtown McMinnville. Quite possibly, A’ Tuscan Estate is the loveliest B&B we’ve ever experienced. Owners Jacques and Liz are perfect hosts, with a fountain of knowledge about food, dining, and the hospitality industry (just read any of the numerous books on these subjects authored by Jacques, all available for perusal in the living spaces).

We strolled the quaint downtown of McMinnville, stopping in at tasting rooms and concluding our night at La Rambla, a polished downtown eatery with Spanish cuisine. At A’ Tuscan Estate, we enjoyed an entire suite in the inn’s Craftsman bungalow, where we had a full kitchen, patio, garden, and living room should we need it. For breakfast, chef Jacques put together an amazing three-course feast, which included three kinds of juice, local fruit, a light-as-air quiche, and homemade pastry. Try getting on your bike and riding after that!

Columbia River Gorge experience:

Cyclists opting to tour the Columbia River Gorge start in or around Government Camp, Oregon, at the edge of Mt. Hood. Those wanting to go further can start lower, and begin with a climb…no thanks! We coasted from Cooper Spur, picking up speeds up to 30 miles per hour on the steep decline from the mountain. Once deposited into the fruitful valley, we stopped for a picnic lunch at a fruit stand (there are plenty en route) and then geared up (pun intended) for a steeply rolling route into Hood River. We tackled closer to 30 miles on this day, and found that with just a few stops (once to try a flight of ciders at Red Tail Fox Farm, once to take in a view of the river and Gorge), the mileage was very do-able. We rolled into Hood River around 5 pm, and checked into Villa Columbia.

This beautiful B&B is situated right off the Columbia, with views from just about every corner. The comfortable living room and dining room are available for guest use, as are the porches and an upstairs sitting room. We were in easy walking distance of Hood River dining, and decided that after our longer ride, we deserved a beer. Full Sail Brewing overlooks the river, where we could watch kite surfers while enjoying a flight and burgers.

From Hood River, cyclists can continue to follow the Columbia on day 3: we opted for the Historic Columbia River Highway, closed to cars, which parallels the river toward the Dalles. More ambitious cyclists could continue on the historic byway, but 20 miles was enough for us on Day 3!

What LifeCycle Adventures provides, and who it’s for:

We are on bikes about once a month at home, and do not consider ourselves to be serious cyclists. Because LifeCycle Adventures customizes all their itineraries, it’s a perfect getaway for anyone who is active and comfortable on a bike. For those who are ready to go out and kill it, Tony has routes for you, too.

During our trip, we came to think of LifeCycle— and Tony —as our personal concierge. He picked us up daily, transported all our luggage to our B&Bs, checked us in (so we could just jump into a shower the minute we arrived), provided us with lunch and dinner recommendations, and, best of all, provided us with detailed route instructions, tailored specifically to us.

Here’s an example of our itinerary. In addition to this, Tony offers many more maps and support documents. We felt safe and in control at all times.

This customization was perfect for us: we are familiar with the area and comfortable on bikes, but not familiar with biking the area. Every morning, we had a briefing with Tony, during which he showed us our route on a map, then —and this is the kicker —provided us with detailed step-by-step directions and maps, which we could keep at the ready on our bikes. We were equipped with bike pumps, directions, snacks, and phone numbers, so we never felt overwhelmed by routes or road challenges.

Before our trip, Tony meticulously created a customized tour book with our exact routes and mileage, plus town guides for each of our destinations. I’ve never seen such detail put into a customized itinerary. If you want to try an cycling adventure but don’t want to be responsible for planning out a complicated route based on abilities, traffic, and road conditions, absolutely leave it to Tony.

Included in a LifeCycle tour is use of bikes and helmets, full route planning, overnight accommodations, which are also customizable (you pick your price range), and full ground support. Our accommodations provided breakfasts, and we bought lunches and dinners on our own.

Can kids go?

Tony welcomes families with kids, and reports that older kids and teens do best. When deciding whether to bring the kids, keep in mind that while the riding can be modified to fit almost anyone, the general pace of a cycling trip is more leisurely than most kids enjoy. We lingered over meals, slept in (wow!) and spent most of each day on a bike or at a winery or fruit stand. Kids who are very into cycling will love it. Others may be looking for a more varied trip by Day 2. You decide!

How to book:

There’s a wealth of information on the LIfeCycle Adventures website, and I recommend doing a thorough reading, then calling the company to talk to someone in person. Tony and his team will be able to plan something perfect for your abilities, budget, and time frame.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced our cycling itinerary as compliments of LifeCycle Adventures, for the purpose of review. All opinions…and sore muscles… are my own.