Grown-Up Getaway: How to spend a weekend in Reno, Nevada

I know…you thought I was going to say Las Vegas, right? But I prefer Reno, Nevada to Vegas any day…this medium-sized city is nestled at the base of the Sierra Nevada mountain range and offers plenty to do in the outdoors in addition to gaming and entertainment. Here’s what to do and where to go…with some unexpected surprises along the way!

Grown Up Getaway: Reno Nevada

Where to stay:

You have your pick of casino hotels in Reno, but for the greatest variety of dining options, entertainment and nightlife, pick either the Eldorado, Circus Circus, or Silver Legacy. They’re all connected, and right in a row on Virginia Street, within walking distance of the off-site venues I suggest visiting. In fact, the trio is now called THE ROW, Reno’s most luxurious row of accommodations, dining and spas.

What to do:

To me, the interiors of almost all casino hotels look the same: like the interiors of all malls or cruise ships. Without the benefit of daylight, I get really stir crazy. The good news is, after checking in and getting settled, you can easily step outside and walk along The Riverwalk District for views of the Truckee River. Keep going a few blocks from the hotel complex down Virginia Street to The Midtown District for a more eclectic, art experience with boutique shops, eateries and breweries. 

You can easily while away a half day here, checking out the vintage clothing shops, record stores. bubble tea shops and breweries. This part of Reno used to be avoided by most residents but is enjoying a new identity. It’s still gritty, and to be honest, I didn’t think I’d enjoy it when I first walk along the streets (there are still quite a few of the low budget motels and adult bookstores I remember from the past). But after perusing the new shops, I fell in love. There’s an excellent clothing exchange and antique shop called Junkee’s, and one for children’s clothing called Sippees. Mostly, you’re walking along Virginia Street proper, but in a few places, little nooks and crannies lead off to clusters of brew pubs and wine bars. There’s even an ice cream sandwich shop utilizing all local ingredients (called Simple Ice Cream Sandwiches on South Virginia Street).

Best of all, Midtown sports a beautiful collection of murals. Check out a map here, but if you just walk through the district, you’ll see most of them. Once you reach the Truckee (back toward the Eldorado), you can check out the ‘Space Whale’ art installation that was brought here from the Burning Man Playa. If you want to see more art, the Wilbur D. May Museum is adjacent.

In the evenings, Reno offers an abundance of shows and performances; just check the listings for your particular dates. And of course, there’s casino gaming as well. Alternatively, you could also check out this online poker game where you can get a $20 promo at Global and play wherever and whenever you want to.

Spend your second day exploring the outdoors. There are over 30 golf courses within the Reno area, as well as a whitewater kayaking park directly in downtown on the Truckee. Within 20 minutes of downtown Reno, Mt. Rose offers skiing, snowshoeing, sledding and snowmobiling in the winter and mountain biking and hiking in the summer. Just drive another 15 minutes or so on the Mt. Rose Highway to reach the northern Nevada side of Lake Tahoe at Incline Village. Spend time at Ski Beach in the summer, renting paddle boards or kayaks or just enjoying the sunshine.

Where to eat:

In Midtown, check out Brasserie Saint James on S. Center Street or Sup on South Virginia Street. If you’d rather stay in the hotel after freshening up, head to Roxy or La Strada in the Eldorado for the best ambiance. Canter’s Deli in the Silver Legacy is a nice option if you want something casual before catching a show at The Laughing Factory next door.

Have you enjoyed a weekend away in Reno? What are your recommendations?

Where to stay at Squaw: Plumpjack Squaw Valley Inn review

Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows is one of our family’s favorite Tahoe ski resorts. We’ve recommended staying in a condo at the Village at Squaw in our guide to skiing Squaw Valley with kids, but there’s an additional village option you should know about.

Plumpjack Squaw Valley Inn review:

We’ve known about Plumpjack, located at the edge of the Village at Squaw, for its fantastic Plumpjack Cafe, serving the kind of fine dining meals you don’t forget about quickly. We love the ambiance here: the cozy restaurant is nestled behind a circular bar area with a large open fire pit. But until recently, we hadn’t stayed the night here.

The 60 or so rooms at Plumpjack vary from standard two-queen arrangements to suites, and are currently functional but fairly dated. We didn’t mind the ‘old-school ski lodge’ feel to Plumpjack at all; in fact, the location in the village (steps from the slopes) and the incredible value of free parking and a hearty included buffet breakfast more than made up for any dark interiors. There’s a pool and two hot tubs out back (the pool is closed in winter) and while there isn’t room service, you’re within a one minute walk to dining options in the village.

Plumpjack invites with a warm atmosphere; you feel like you’re in Europe, truly. It’s easy to find cozy nooks and crannies to settle in with a book and a warm drink, and the outdoor areas are inviting and private as well.

Room rates during our visit were around $225, which is a good value for the heart of the village and within steps of the slopes. In fact, if you’re looking for a hotel experience (as opposed to a condo) with an intimate feel, Plumpjack can’t be beaten. While the cafe is fine dining, families are very welcome here, and the breakfast has lots to offer. The bar area is kid-friendly, and serves excellent craft cocktails for Mom and Dad. Since our kids weren’t digging the idea of a nice dinner after a day of skiing, we set them up with take-out from the village and slipped away for a parents night at Plumpjack Cafe. Win-win!

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Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe review with kids

Incline Village, on Lake Tahoe’s north shore, offers plenty of condo and vacation home rentals but only one truly premiere destination resort. The Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe has everything you’re looking for in a luxury property, and unless ski-in, ski-out lodging is a must for your family, the location cannot be beaten.

You’re within a five-minute drive to Diamond Peak ski resort, and within 15-30 minutes of half a dozen additional North Tahoe resorts. The Hyatt is situated right on the shore of the lake (a road does divide the property, but there’s an accessible path) and the views are truly spectacular.

Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe review:

I have high standards when it comes to luxury Hyatt properties. We’ve had some wonderful experiences with Hyatt. The Regency level hotels can sometimes be hit and miss, but this one’s a hit. While the tower-focused architecture is not quite to my taste (I prefer mountain resorts to blend into their surroundings a bit more), the interior makes up for this with lots of stonework, oversized fireplaces and sunken seating areas. All the amenities you want are here (more on that in a moment), but outshining them all is the Hyatt team. For me, good service is key, and from the minute we pulled up at the valet, through the entire check-in process (which includes a champagne or sparkling cider toast), everyone was welcoming and helpful.

You have the option to self-park for free or valet park, and either way, the porters will help you with your bags and you can store your skis or snowboards right there at the valet stand.

There are multiple dining options in the resort, including their signature Lone Eagle Grille, located on the lakeshore. Come early and watch the sunset outdoors…not to be missed! The more casual Sierra Cafe serves food all day, and Cutthroat’s Saloon is a good apres-ski bet if you want a mixologist to help you smooth out the edges of your ski day or lake day. Room service is available: the menu is on the TV screen and is fairly limited but convenient.

Since the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe is on the Nevada side of the north shore, there’s also a small casino, which is easy to avoid entirely if you’re like me and would rather pretend it didn’t exist. Tahoe Provisions sells some gourmet grocery items and is a decent place to pick up a sandwich or coffee, but you can also stop by a grocery store before arrival if you think you’ll need substantial provisions.

This Hyatt Regency has a Regency Club for guests on the 11th and 12th floor, and we highly recommend upgrading to this level if you plan to eat most meals in the resort. The club is open pretty much all day (with just a few short breaks) and has a nice spread for breakfast, snacks throughout the day, appetizers starting at 5 pm (which for my family, can totally be a full dinner) and desserts after 8 pm. There’s an honor bar and complimentary drinks all day, including wine and beer. This is a great value if you use it enough.

Resort amenities include a large heated outdoor pool that’s open year-round, several hot tubs, a fitness center and the Stillwater Spa. My only wish that went unmet: I didn’t find any saunas in the pool area, which would have been a plus. I didn’t get the chance to check out the spa on this visit, and there may well be saunas there. There’s also a small arcade/game room near the fitness center that my son spent about 45 minutes enjoying. He gave it a B+.

We spent a lot of our time at the pool area, because we visited during beautiful winter weather, but we could have also spent more time by the lake shore near the grille. There are fire pits by the pool where kids can roast marshmallows at night as well.

We checked out a king bed suite on the 12th floor, which had a great configuration: the bedroom area was divided from the living space area by a bookcase only, not a wall, giving the room a larger, more open feel. The couch opened up to a double bed so we could easily fit four. The bathroom was spacious with double showerheads (but no bath) and a vanity area separate from the toilet area. My only complaint about our room: the windows were small, which was a shame because the views of the lake were great. Instead of spending much time in the room, we explored the rest of the property.

I would be remiss not to point out some of the truly thoughtful touches we discovered around the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe. These were small things that ended up making a big difference, like a water station right by the hot tubs to help us stay hydrated, and the motion-sensor floor-level night lights that made it easy for me to make coffee in the morning without waking up the family. We appreciated the addition of an empty fridge (as opposed to a stocked one) so we could store leftovers, and the room had ample outlets in all the right places.

If you’re visiting in winter and want to ski, a free shuttle runs on the half hour back and forth to Diamond Peak. We used this service and found it very convenient.

Have you stayed at the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe? What did you think?

Disclosure: our stay was complimentary, for the purpose of review. All opinion remains our own.

Where to ski in Utah: Solitude Mountain Resort

Solitude Mountain Resort is one of those ski resorts that grows on you. The first time I skied Solitude was as part of a demo day experience, and I only traversed part of the mountain. Still, I enjoyed it. The next time I visited, my teenage son and I zipped all over the mountain during an epic powder day…hard to dislike that! The third time I skied this Big Cottonwood Canyon resort, the snow was so-so, but hidden stashes remained, and the true peace and tranquility to be found here won me over.

solitude-mountain-resort

What to expect at Solitude Mountain Resort:

Let’s start with what not to expect: don’t expect crowds, as Solitude really does live up to its name. You also don’t need to expect the usual high lift ticket prices. Even if you opt to buy tickets at the window or online, instead of getting a M.A.X. Pass, Solitude lift tickets are on the reasonable side, comparatively speaking. And I have visited during a long holiday weekend.

Instead, at Solitude, you can expect a local vibe, despite the presence of a base village with lodging for out-of-town guests. There’s an emphasis on off-piste (off the run) skiing and even backcountry skiing (out of bounds), which means the mountain ‘skis bigger than it is’. What do I mean by this? At 1200 acres, Solitude is not considered a very large resort, but if you include all the glade skiing, powder bowls, and off-piste options, which exist depending on snow conditions, it’s very large indeed.

solitude-ski-terrain

The lifts at Solitude are spaced out enough that some traversing will be necessary at times, but the newest chair, Summit, is not only fast but offers incredible views as you ascend. The village is compact, with condo-style lodging, an inn, a few restaurants, gear rentals, and a snow sports shop, and extremely cozy.

How to plan your trip to Solitude:

I love skiing Utah resorts because so many of them are within an easy commute of Salt Lake City and the international airport. Solitude was within 45 minutes of downtown during my visits. From the base of Big Cottonwood Canyon, it’s only 12 miles. On one trip, because my son and I were skiing multiple resorts during my second time at Solitude, we stayed at the entrance to the canyon, at Residence Inn by Marriott. It was comfortable, convenient, had an excellent complimentary breakfast, and was only about 25 minutes from the Solitude parking lot. I highly recommend this hotel if you want to stay central to both Big and Little Cottonwood canyons.

solitude-village

If your ski trip will be solely at Solitude and/or Solitude and its neighbor, Brighton, definitely stay in the Solitude Village. I stayed two nights at the Inn at Solitude on my third visit and loved the proximity to the mountain. My fourth-floor balcony literally overlooked the Apex Chair, and the heated, outdoor hot tub and pool soothed sore muscles each evening. The Inn at Solitude is just steps from The Hungry Squirrel, which became my go-to apres-ski watering hole, and there are spa services on-site, too. St. Bernard’s restaurant, directly inside the inn, offers an Alpine-style buffet dinner with charcuterie, hot soups, roasts and cobblers every night, and serves an equally satisfying buffet breakfast each morning. The atmosphere is warm and relaxing; we enjoyed drinks in the Library Bar seating area outside the dining room before our leisurely meal. St. Bernard’s was a definite highlight of our time at Solitude. You also get access to Club Solitude by staying at the Inn at Solitude, which has additional pools, a lounge area with video games and a movie screening room, exercise spaces and saunas.

As noted, the village is small, but has what you need (eliminating any need to commute down the canyon for food or supplies). You can find a very small convenience store right at the entrance to Solitude by the real estate office; this is not a grocery store by any means, but does have wine, beer, convenience items and toiletry items. If you are staying in the village and want a second option in addition to St. Bernard’s, head to Honeycomb Grille for excellent American bistro cuisine or to the small pizzeria. Every option is within walking distance of everything else.

You’ll be ski-in, ski-out at Solitude, and only a five-minute drive from Brighton. There are buses that connect the two as well (and you can ski between them…more on that in a minute).

Getting your bearings at Solitude:

There are two base areas at Solitude, at Solitude Village and Moonbeam base area. It’s nice that both have parking lots, to spread out day guests, and both have base lodges with ticket sales and food services. Moonbeam is home to the snowsports center, which is where to go if you’re taking a lesson or dropping off kids for lessons. There are some food venues there, as well as bathrooms.

solitude

The village has additional food services, a rental shop and tuning shop, and all the lodging options (which include condos in addition to the inn). A good lunch option can be found at Last Chance Lodge, right on the snow at the edge of the village, where you can find excellent made-to-order tacos and a salad bar. Hang tight though, because the absolute best lunch spot is at mid-mountain (read on to find out where).

Skiing Solitude:

If you enjoy skiing off-piste, Solitude is heaven. The Summit chair drops you off at the entry to Honeycomb Canyon, named, it turns out, not after Utah’s honey production, but after the many mines that dotted the canyon a century ago. Multiple gated chutes connect with the bowl, giving skiers and snowboarders a very long and powdery run to the base near Eagle chair. There’s also a front face at Summit, plenty of tree skiing, and groomer runs for intermediate level.

Tip: if you’re a beginner, pay attention to notices at the base of each chair. Solitude is very good about placing signage where beginner terrain will be lacking, so you can know before going up.

Additional glade skiing is excellent off the older (and slower moving) Sunrise chair, and lots of nice blue groomers can be found off Moonbeam and Eagle. If you’re willing to hike, even more bowl skiing opens up, and backcountry skiers will be happy too: just look for the signage indicating when you need your own backcountry shovel, avalanche beacon, and probe to continue. (This is a good indication that you may need to hike out of the run, too.)

solitude-mountain-resort

Overall, look at signage no matter your ski ability, and be ready to ask for advice from locals…there will be plenty of skiers and snowboarders around who are familiar with the mountain. If you have a M.A.X. pass or combined ticket for Solitude and Brighton, know that you can ski between the resorts via the Solbright run. And, er, if you accidentally ski that run and end up at the wrong base area without a combined ticket, the nice lifties will let you return via the lift…once.

If you’re an intermediate to advanced skier and want to open up more terrain for yourself, book one of Solitude’s Hidden Tracks mornings. Operating as snow and weather permits, Hidden Tracks is an opportunity to ski with a local instructor who can show you all those hidden stashes and glades you might have missed. And there are a lot! During my Hidden Tracks experience, my guide Josh described skiing off-piste at Solitude as ‘a game of gates’. What he meant: there are gated entrances to off-piste terrain all over the place! These gated areas are maintained by ski patrol for safety and opened and closed at their discretion. Once you know where they all are, as well as which ones will require boot packing (or hiking) to get to the great snow, you’ll be an informed skier who can continue to enjoy these gates the rest of your trip. Have adventurous teens? This session is ideal for them to know their options!

At a mountain like Solitude, which has so much backcountry and side country terrain, Hidden Tracks is well worth your time and money. And while it’s not a lesson, if you’d like instruction or pointers during the morning, your guide will be happy to accommodate you.

roundhouse-lodge

Tip: definitely plan to eat your lunch at the Roundhouse mid-mountain between the Moonbeam and Eagle lifts. This circular lodge has a lot of history, and serves just two types of food: Wasatch mountain food (Utah-inspired soups, stews, and burgers), and Himalayan mountain food (wonderful curries and rice dishes). The food is excellent, and we found there was plenty of room…no hunting for a table at lunch.

Solitude lift tickets:

As with all ski vacations, ease the burden on your wallet by planning your lift ticket purchase ahead of time at Solitude. If you only plan to spend a few days, buy multi-day tickets online ahead of time to save money off the approximate $85 adult day pass price. There’s also a Solbright day pass, which gives you access to all of Brighton, too. Personally, I think you’ll be busy enough at just one or the other, but the flexibility is nice.

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Wondering where to ski in Utah? Solitude shines for teens. Here's why!

Disclosure: We skied Solitude as guests of the resort, for the purpose of reviewing the M.A.X. Pass option. All opinions are my own.

 

Grown-Up Getaway: Salt Lake City weekend

A Grown-Up Getaway in Salt Lake City? Absolutely! If you haven’t visited Utah’s capital city in a while, you’re in for a surprise. The culinary scene here has exploded, with top chefs from all over the US planting their flags in the city. Craft cocktails are alive and well in watering holes all over Salt Lake City (yes, really) and visitors have a variety of downtown lodging to choose from.

Whether you come to Salt Lake City as a stopover (SLC is a hub airport, after all), or you’re planning to ski in the canyons or in Park City after a taste of urban life, this city in the heart of the Wasatch makes for the perfect Grown Up Getaway for a Salt Lake City weekend.

Where to stay: historic Peery Hotel

Book your reservation at the Peery Hotel, located directly downtown next to the best restaurants, the Salt Palace convention center and Temple Square. The Peery is a historic hotel that’s recently enjoyed a refreshing; walking into the well-appointed lobby felt like a breath of fresh air. The understated yellow tones merged perfectly with the crackling fireplace and cozy seating in the lobby; the adjacent bar and Carnegie’s Public House beckoned.

peery hotel

My room at the Peery overlooked the courtyard, which at first, I saw as a detriment. In fact, it made for a quiet night’s stay, with views that still overlooked the city. The bathroom was over-sized to the point of being opulent, with a jetted tub for two and lovely black-and-white tiled floor and pedestal sinks.

All the rooms at the Peery feature king beds, but ours included a pull-out couch, so could fit a family of four if needed. The bed was uber-comfy and I loved the plush robes.

Cocktails at the Carnegie’s Public House:

Right downstairs off the lobby, Carnegie’s offers pub-fare, but focus on the the cozy bar. I ordered a classic Manhattan here with High West whiskey (a must in Utah, in my opinion). The bar ambiance is warm and welcoming; order an appetizer at the bar if you’d like.

Dinner at Current Fish and Oyster:

You won’t be disappointed in an intimate dinner at one of Salt Lake City’s most up-and-coming restaurants. Current Fish and Oyster headed up by chef Alan Brines, who has worked previously in Park City and across the Pacific Northwest. Inhabiting a historic building, Current Fish and Oyster has a distinctly urban ‘packing house’ flair, with high ceilings, lots of brick and exposed beams and a gorgeous outdoor patio with fire pits in the summer. During our winter visit, the interior was lively and abuzz with a Sundance Film Festival crowd. I highly recommend the oysters (an ever-changing selection flown directly to SLC daily) and the seafood stew. The wine list is deep, and the cocktail menu inventive.

current fish and oyster

As alternate dining option, should you have multiple days, we recommend From Scratch (self-explanatory) and Stanza (contemporary Italian), both in the immediate vicinity.

For a change of scene, especially if you won’t be venturing outside of SLC for the ski or mountain scene, consider booking a reservation at Log Haven. Located on Millcreek Canyon Road a world removed from downtown, Log Haven used to be that one tired restaurant every local family booked for anniversaries, celebrations and birthdays. Today, it shines, renowned for its seasonal cuisine and mountain vibe.

What to do:

Visit Temple Square, take in a Jazz game, or enjoy the shopping downtown and in the Sugar House neighborhood.

What is your favorite activity in Salt Lake City? Please share in the comments!

Where to stay on Kauai South Shore: Marriott’s Waiohai Beach Club

Every time I visit a Marriott Vacation Club, I’m equally impressed. The Waiohai Beach Club is the fourth property I’ve seen, and won’t be my last. Why? While every Marriott Vacation Club is different, in order to fit into its setting geographically and culturally, core amenities and values remain consistent across the brand: roomy, family-friendly suites with kitchens and washer/dryers, above average customer service, and a focused effort on kid-friendly activities.

marriott-vacation-club

 

If you’re not familiar with Marriott Vacation Club, go here to read more. In a nutshell, this ‘arm’ of Marriott offers a timeshare-modeled ownership plan, but also welcomes nightly guests at a fantastic value. I recommend MVCs often, because for a reasonable rate, families get tons of room and the ability to make their own meals. While service is good, the properties never feel ‘snooty’.

Features specific to Waiohai Beach Club:

poipu-beach

This property has the prettiest grounds I’ve seen at a Marriott Vacation Club. Located right on the ocean on the south side of Kauai, the eight buildings, or ‘hales’ nestle in a semi-circle, with the resort’s three pools and three hot tubs tucked amid beautiful landscaping between them.

The beach is the best I’ve seen for Hawaiian resorts, though families can find even better by venturing around the island by car. However, when you pick a resort over a vacation home or town living, it’s crucial the beach on-site delivers, as you’ll be spending the most time there. The beach at Waiohai Beach Club certainly does: the resort is adjacent to Poipu Beach, with several small natural coves perfect for different activities. There a very calm, reef-sheltered ‘keiki’ beach if you walk a few steps from the resort to the left, a nice snorkeling spot closer to the resort, then, directly out front, a sandy beach with waves perfect for boogie boarding. Further off-shore, expert surfers can be spotted (in season).

marriott-vacation-club

 

Since it’s only a few steps from your villa to the beach, it’s easy to spend the day hopping from beach to pools to villa, returning for meals if you desire. If you want to drive elsewhere, several other Poipu beaches are within a few miles, or the wonders of the North Shore await if you’re willing to put in an hour plus drive (do…it’s worth it).

Additional activities:

poilu-beach

Marriott Vacation Club activities are always listed on a schedule you’re handed when you check-in, and are as extensive as on some cruise ships. In other words, if you want to be active, you can be. There are children’s activities daily, most of which are free.

New to Marriott Vacation Club is Club Thrive, which opened during my visit to Waiohai. This fitness program is much more than simply exercise. Four key elements of a healthy lifestyle and vacation are hit upon in every Thrive class: move, refuel, explore, and revive. The Thrive instructors are warm, energetic, and welcoming, and tell me their goals are to help guests try classes or exercises they may not have tried yet at home, and feel relaxed and rejuvenated during their trip. Thrive classes are offered daily Monday through Friday, and range from stretching/yoga classes to Zumba to nature walks. Some are ideal for the whole family, while others require the industry standard of 13 and up. During my visit, I tried a Thrive AquaFit class, Thrive walk, and Thrive stretching/rejuvenation class, and enjoyed them all. Thrive instructor Troy is so engaging and enthusiastic, MVC should make him the poster boy of the program!

club-thrive

On site are boogie board, snorkel, and SUP rentals, plus surf rentals and lessons. If your kids (or you) have not surfed before, I highly recommend a lesson to start them off. Lessons are $75 per person, and after that, board rentals are much less expensive. During our Hawaiian vacation, we had lessons, then rented boards for the kids for an extra day, so they could continue working on their own.

The snorkeling is excellent from the beach, so definitely plan on renting snorkels (at the time of my visit, it was $25/week for gear). There are also gear rental shops in Koloa, located only two minutes by car from the resort.

The concierge on site can recommend various other excursions across the island. Definitely stop by to check out the offerings…there is so much to do on Kauai! We saw whales (in March) directly from the resort, but spotted even more, and up closer, on a catamaran cruise with Holo Holo Charters, located not far from the south shore in Port Allen.

What to expect from your villa:

We stayed in a two-bedroom villa (remember, all rooms are villas at Marriott Vacation Club), which slept eight. Honestly, eight would have been pretty crowded, but six would have been no problem. There’s a full kitchen, already stocked with all the silverware, plates, cooking utensils, and pots and pans you’ll need. Do a grocery store run after arrival, and you’ll be all set!

marriott villa

The living space is connected to the kitchen in the center of the villa, and includes extra space in the form of the large balcony, with seating. There’s a full dining room table in addition, which seats eight. The living room space also has a large couch (which pulls out to a bed) and flat screen TV and DVD player.

The two bedrooms of the villa come off of the main room, and are spacious and light. We loved the natural tones used throughout, which fit the Hawaiian vibe throughout the resort. Each bedroom has a full bath attached, with tub and shower. In one bedroom, an additional couch pulls out to be a bed as well. Each villa also has a full washer and dryer…worth their weight in gold when traveling with kids!

Those extras that add up:

You know what I mean…in many luxury hotels, the room rate is just the beginning. Once you pay for wifi, parking, and dining, you’ve spent far more. At MVC, wifi is always free, and parking is either free or has a minimal cost. At Waiohai, it was $10/day. Coffee is resupplied in the villa daily.

marriott-vacation-club

Dining:

Most, if not all, MVCs focus on causal dining and in-villa eating, so they don’t have a formal dinner restaurant on-site. At Waiohai, the Honu Bar and Grill, located beachside, offers very nice fare in an outdoor setting. Pick up lunch here, or drinks and smoothies. It’s open for dinner as well until 7:30 pm at the time of our visit. The same causal grill fare is offered during dinner, with the additional of a nightly dinner special. When we visited on a Monday, the dinner special was grilled mahi mahi with a garlic butter and the traditional rice and macaroni salad of the Hawaiian plate lunch. It was delicious.

In addition to Honu, Waiohai has a marketplace, as do all MVCs I’ve visited, which offers grab-and-go sandwiches, wraps, and bento or rice bowls. They also had convenience food items like chicken tenders and hot dogs. Our kids didn’t like the chicken tenders, so I’d stick with the freshly prepared items. Also in the marketplace are grocery items, wine and beer, and snacks. This market will not replace a full grocery run elsewhere, but is perfect if you need some snacks, milk for your cereal, or more coffee. They also offer some basic breakfast plates, Starbucks coffee, and muffins and pastries in the mornings.

So would we stay here again? Absolutely. There are basically two lodging options when visiting Kauai: families can rent a vacation home, or stay in a resort. There are pros and cons to each, of course, but if you’ve chosen the latter, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better value in a beach-side resort than MVC. You’ll get more for your money here, and have the cost-saving conveniences of a rental home (the kitchen and laundry) combined with the fun and pampering of a resort.

Directions:

The Waiohai Beach Club is located at 2249 Poipu Road, Koloa. From the Lihue airport, it’s an easy 20 minute drive, following signage to Poipu.

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As we disclose whenever applicable, we stayed at Waiohai as guests of MVC, for the purpose of review.

Azul Beach Hotel: A Riviera Maya boutique all inclusive resort

All-inclusive Mexican hotels are convenient for families, but their sheer size can sometimes mean a lack of a personal touch. Enter the boutique all inclusive resort experience. We’ve long been fans of boutique hotels for families, but definitely need simplicity of all-inclusive pricing, so we jumped at the chance to try Azul Beach Hotel along Mexico’s Riviera Maya. Azul Beach Hotel boasts fewer than 150 rooms (as opposed to many all-inclusives 1000+), Gourmet Inclusive cuisine, and impeccable service.

boutique all inclusive resort

The property and grounds aren’t too shabby either.

From the moment we arrived, hot and tired after a red eye from San Francisco, we could tell Azul Beach was different than your average all-inclusive. We were greeted with tropical drinks and shaded swinging outdoor beds to lounge on as we picked pillows from the extensive pillow menu and scents for our room. Yes, scents for our room! Check in was graciously efficient and within minutes, we were dining in Azul’s open-air lunch restaurant, Blue. No ‘cattle call’ buffets, here: breakfast is the only meal with a buffet option.

Azul Beach hotel lobby

Azul family suites:

We stayed in one of Azul’s new family suites, which worked perfectly for our family of two adults and three older kids (8, 12, and 14). Usually, our family of five barely fits in a room, but with the suite’s pull-out trundle bed configuration and king bed, everyone had adequate space. Privacy was hard to come by with the open floor plan, but the wide, shuttered windows from bathroom to bedroom to living space could be shut if needed. We had a small dining table and a large balcony with additional (and cozy) papasan chair seating, plus a complimentary stocked mini-bar and coffee service. We had a full closet and plenty of room to spread out. The bathroom featured a jacuzzi tub and full shower, plus duel sinks. Our second-floor room overlooked the hotel’s swim-up family suites with a pool view.

Azul Beach Hotel

Azul grounds and amenities:

Azul’s grounds are lush and peaceful; we loved that buildings are capped at three stories, adding to a village-like feel instead of a hotel tower feel. The whole resort is very walkable; within 3-4 minutes families can walk between the beach and pools, rooms and restaurants. The swimming beach is just steps from the main pools, and recreation areas (and events) are scattered throughout the property…no matter where you are, something is going on.

Azul beach hotel

Our kids enjoyed the beach, but spent more time in Azul’s fun network of pools. There are three beach-side pools adjacent to the beach restaurants (one with a swim-up bar), plus an entire system of pools surrounding the resort’s many swim-up suites. In the center of this system is another large pool with swim-up bar next to the sports bar and ping-pong tables (the kids’ club is near here, too).

While the kids swam in the pools, my husband and I spent the majority of our time beachside, enjoying Azul’s beach beds and beautiful ocean views. Tip: to reserve one of the hotel’s approximately 20 beach beds, join the line at the beach butler stand by 2:30 pm the day before. Beach beds are reserved at 3 pm on a first-in-line, first-served basis. The beds line the beach, and come with plenty of towels, sunscreen, drinks, and sand toys. (All the above can be requested individually from the beach butler stand as well.) If you don’t get a beach bed, there are plenty of chaise lounge chairs to use, plus kayaks to use free of charge. Beach volleyball and soccer games are organized throughout the day, and a Hobie Cat catamaran can be reserved (complete with operator).

Puerto Morelos

The only think lacking at the beach butler stand are complimentary snorkeling gear rentals, but there’s a reason for this: while you’ll see a fish or two from the beach, the best snorkeling is a matter of yards out, along the Mayan Reef. Skiffs depart Azul most afternoons for the reef; families can reserve seats for $40/person, which includes all gear.

Azulitos kids’ club and recreation:

The kids’ club is located indoors near the interior pool, but activities take place throughout the resort. We appreciated that kids were not confined to the indoors. Kids can come and go at will (either checked in and out by parents or granted their own in and out privileges) and the day’s activities, locations, and times are posted on a board by the main pool. In the center, kids find fun gym equipment (including mats and a balance board), video games, a Lego station, and Fisher Price toys galore (Fisher Price is a partner with Azul…families with young kids will also see the toys and baby/toddler equipment at meals and in their rooms if requested).

The kids’ club is for ages up to 12 (though our 12-year-old wasn’t interested), and though there isn’t a specific program for teens, Azul keeps a recreation staff busy with fun activities that appeal to this age group. During our stay, the recreation leaders engaged the teens on site with sports, ping pong games, card games in the open-air bar areas, and beach soccer. There’s a very relaxed atmosphere; while kids can certainly stay busy with activities should they want to, it’s just as easy to relax. We never got the ‘scheduled cruise ship’ feel.

Azul Beach Hotel villas

Dining:

Food at Azul is truly fantastic. When I read that the dining was what they call ‘gourmet inclusive’, I was skeptical…after all, it’s still an all-inclusive resort, right? But I was proven wrong from the start. The five dinner restaurants on site are intimate, with exceptional service and high-quality cuisine. During our stay, four of five restaurants were open every evening (no reservations needed), with multiple lunch options as well. In addition, room service is available 24/7. When we had a very early morning excursion to depart for, we were able to order a full breakfast at 5 am to our room.

A video overview:

The cuisine at Azul restaurants range from Italian food to Latin and Asian to traditional Mexican and American. Our family’s favorite: the sushi offerings at Tainan. A close second: the pasta at Roma. Every morning, we ate from the large buffet offerings at Blue (though a menu is available as well) and for lunches we dined at beachside Chil and from the pool bar offerings.

Date last visited:

August 2013

Location:

Azul Beach Hotel is located in Puerto Morelos, only 20 minutes from the Cancun airport. This small fishing village is a world removed from the bustle of the Cancun hotel zone, yet it’s fairly easy to return to the city for any excursions (we returned for a day of swimming with whale sharks with Solo Buceo). Cab fare to and from Cancun is approximately $50 US (just be sure to agree on this amount before getting in the cab) or a very reliable shuttle service from the airport can get you there with luggage and up to six people for $75. (We used Lomas.) In Puerto Morelos, families are also only approximately 60 km from Playa del Carmen activities, such as cenote excursions and eco parks.

Tip: If you plan to explore the Riviera Maya region from Tulum to Cancun frequently, renting a car may be the best option.

Rates:

At the time of our visit, our all-inclusive rate was $300/adults and $100 for kids 12 and under per night. This rate came to approximately $300 more per night than at a standard large all-inclusive hotel, and was well worth it for our vacation.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my family and I experienced Azul Beach Hotel as guests of the resort and on a media rate, for the purpose of review. This hospitality came with no expectation of a positive review.

A stay at Seattle’s Hyatt at Olive 8

I love finding new kid-friendly gems in destination cities! I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again: families don’t have to settle for cheap hotels in the suburbs while city touring. Family-friendly, downtown hotels do exist. Our latest find: the Hyatt at Olive 8. Located in the heart of Seattle’s downtown, the Olive 8 is just steps from the impressive convention center. One would assume this would mean the hotel is overrun with business travelers, but this is not so! We visited mid-week, and were still in the company of numerous family groups. My kids think this is due to their large indoor pool and whirlpool hot tub and their restaurant, Urbane’s, ‘For Kids, By Kids’ farm-fresh menu.

Hyatt at Olive 8

As the sliding glass doors open to usher you into the Olive 8’s lobby, the first thing you notice is the minimalist, glass and steel decor. I loved the ultra-modern layout of Olive 8: the lobby looks out on downtown from expansive glass panes, and the common areas are all open, with wide hallways and high ceilings. This less-is-more mentality extends to energy consumption: that the Olive 8 is the first LEEDS certified Seattle hotel.

Hyatt at Olive 8

In-room amenities:

In our room, our key cards turned on and off lights (to ensure they automatically turn off upon exiting), linens and towels are replaced on request, and the heating and air units are eco-friendly. Even the toilets offer two flushing options to reduce water usage, which the kids found delightful (and hilarious). We stayed in adjoining rooms as a family of five (and had plenty of room) and all rooms come equipped with mini-fridges (a staple!) and iPod docking stations (a very nice perk). The in-room coffee service was not half-bad, and I liked that Tazo teas were offered as well. My kids loved the thick Hyatt bathrobes, and I liked how many outlets I had to charge electronics. Wifi is available in-room for a fee.

Pool and Fitness Center:

We visited the Olive 8 on a cold December night. The kids jumped right in the pool, which is open later than most (until 10:30, open at 5:30 am), and my husband and I appreciated that the Hyatt StayFit gym (a staple of all Hyatts) is located adjacent. We could tag team a workout while the kids swam. The Olive 8 does have a spa, though we sadly didn’t have time to check it out.

Urbane at Hyatt at Olive 8

Dining:

The Olive 8 has both a marketplace where families can buy snacks and staples, and a full restaurant, Urbane. We ate breakfast at Urbane at the suggestion of both hotel staff and locals. Urbane adapts Hyatt’s For Kids, By Kids menu, developed by kids and a young chef. While Urbane is by no means an economical breakfast choice for families, it does promise locally sourced, healthy options. The dining room echoed the rest of Olive 8’s elegant design, and the service was friendly.

While staying at Olive 8, you’re within walking distance of the Space Needle and Pacific Science Center, and right on metro lines to Pike’s Place Market and the waterfront. You’ll pay for your comfort and prime location: rates start at $152 for a single king room. But why not end each of your busy touring days with a swim and a warm soak, healthy food, and comfortable, eco-friendly digs?

Date last visited: December 2012

Room rates:

At the time of our visit, standard, king bedrooms started at $153 on non-holiday nights. We opted for two adjoining rooms with queen beds, and were comfortable as a family of five.

Directions:

The Olive 8 is located at 1635 8th Street, Seattle. From I-5, take Pike Street. The hotel is easily accessed from I-90, too.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced Hyatt at Olive 8 as guests of the hotel. While we appreciate this opportunity to share great hotel finds with our readers, it came with no expectation of a positive review.

Riding Amtrak: how and when to enjoy an affordable rail trip with kids

I love rail travel: I find a train journey to be restful, peaceful, and productive for a work-from-the-road type like myself. My kids enjoy it as well: they appreciate the mobility afforded (compared to air travel), the extra leg room, and the fun dining and panoramic cars. However, train travel today is not always the economical choice it was just a few decades ago. Price a multi-day rail journey across a portion of the US or Canada on Amtrak or VIA Rail, and your jaw is likely to drop. It’s cheaper for an entire family to fly to a far-flung destination than travel by train. However, there are ways to experience a rail journey in the US or Canada for less. Here’s how to enjoy an affordable rail trip with kids:

amtrak-with-kids

1. Take a day trip.

Coach seats on Amtrak and VIA Rail are very reasonable. It’s when parents book passage in the sleeper cars that rates skyrocket. We don’t advise booking coach tickets for overnight travel with young kids—trust us, you’ll be miserable—but day journeys are perfectly comfortable in coach class. We like to utilize Amtrak to commute from our hometown in Southern Oregon to Portland International Airport (PDX) for more affordable air tickets, and save on long term parking fees. The trip takes us six hours (instead of the usual four by car) but no one has to drive, the kids enjoy the scenery through the Cascades, and we make up the train fare in the lack of parking fees.

riding-amtrak

As coach passengers, families don’t get meals included, but food packed from home is permitted, and a lounge car always has causal meals and snacks on offer. On Amtrak, when all sleeper car passengers have booked their meal reservations in the dining car, the crew opens reservations for coach passengers. Dining car meals are a fun affair, but costly. Parents pay a la carte if traveling coach. We find a happy medium bringing our our lunch and supplementing with a treat from the lounge.

2. Book early for Super Saver tickets.

amtrak-lounge-car

Unlike air travel, for which the best ticket prices are usually offered during a 6-8 week window pre-trip, families can save the most by booking rail tickets as far ahead as possible. Look for Super Saver tickets, or book your train travel in the off-season. In June-August, families will pay top dollar for both coach and sleeper tickets.

3. Try a single overnight.

If your crew really wants to spend the night on the train—and yes, it is fun—24 hours is usually enough. We spent a memorable day and night riding VIA Rail’s Canadian route, and while we loved watching the stunning scenery go by and enjoying the dining car and comfortable berths (yes, really!), we were more than ready to hop off and stretch our legs after 24 hours. Check Amtrak and VIA Rail routes online to find a one-night itinerary that works for your family: there are more station stops than most people realize.

A few rail travel tips:

amtrak-trip

Don’t be in a hurry:
If you have a tight schedule, this is not the time for a rail trip. Amtrak runs at its own pace, stopping en route for freight trains (they have priority), at stations, and slowing through towns. Becoming behind schedule is the norm. We never book a rail trip on the same day of a flight departure.

2. Know what you’ll have access to:
Coach passengers are usually offered electrical outlets at each seat, plus pillows and blankets. Seats recline and have foot rests. A lounge car offers snack foods and ceiling to floor windows. Restrooms are in every car. Sleeper passengers also enjoy access to a parlor car with additional dining, a dining car with included meals (3x daily) and wifi. Check the information on the train you’ll be taking online before you go.

amtrak-trip-with-kids

3. Pack carry-on only if possible:
Amtrak and VIA Rail both offer checked luggage service, but in our personal experience, getting your luggage back can take a while. Because passengers are allowed two carry-ons (just like when flying), and there’s ample space for your carry-on (unlike when flying), we recommend carrying luggage on board.

4. Let kids bring their own camera:
Our kids love taking photos aboard trains, and the freedom of movement afforded by rail travel makes it possible for kids to walk from car to car taking photos. In most lounge cars, docents are on-hand to offer knowledge about the vistas and landmarks passing outside the window. Encourage kids to ask questions or follow along on a map.

5. Board early for panoramic car or lounge car seats:
Cars with public access, like lounge cars with great views, fill up fast. Usually, boarding a train is a casual affair, with ample time. Instead of sitting in the train station lounge until the last minute, board early to snag good seats.

6. Opt in for Amtrak schedule notifications:
Because Amtrak considers the posted schedule only a suggestion (as noted, they are restricted by many factors, including freight schedules) it’s helpful to sign up for schedule change email alerts or texts. Knowledge of delays can save families from early wake-up calls or long waits.

Have train travel tips to share? Leave them in the comments!

Photo credit: Amy Whitley, Jim Guest

Back to Ski: Smugglers Notch Resort for teens and advanced skiers

We covered Smugglers’ Notch amenities for young kids and babies last winter, but Vermont-based Smuggs has older kids, teens, and advanced skiers covered as well. In fact, this combination makes Smuggs an excellent resort pick for multigenerational family travel, so bring Grandma and Grandpa along, too. If you have expert skiers and older kids or teens in your midst, here’s what you need to know about Smugglers Notch Resort for teens:

smuggs for teens

Two-hour lessons appeal to older kids:  

My kids—all of whom are expert skiers—balk at all-day lesson programs. They long to explore the mountain on their own, but we insist they continue to work on their skills. At Smuggs, advanced skiers can opt for two-hour lessons (ages 6-17), giving kids plenty of time for free skiing. Tip: book the afternoon session instead of morning for a less crowded lesson. You may even luck out with a private experience! 

Mountain configuration is teen-friendly:

Smuggs is comprised of three interconnected mountains. Morse Mountain is where all the action is: you’ll find the childcare and ski school at its base, along with the entire Village Center, and a network of trails primarily for beginners, with a sprinkling of blues for intermediate levels. Madonna and Sterling mountains are further afield, and offer a solid helping of intermediate runs, plus the resort’s black diamond, double-black diamond, and even triple-black diamond runs. To get there, skiers need to ride the chairlift up Morse Mountain, ski the access trail, then catch the double chairlifts at Madonna and Sterling. What this means for parents of teens: to get back down the mountain, runs funnel back down to Morse, ensuring there’s only one place your kids will end up. It’s easy to plan meeting places for tweens and teens, and if you have kids in advanced ski school while you’re hitting the slopes solo, you can meet them at the Madonna/Sterling base lodge.

smuggs adult lessons

Adult lessons are not just for beginners:

Practice what you preach to your kids, and take a lesson yourself! If you’re an expert skier, consider your time to be a lesson on Smuggs as well as a lesson on ski form. Madonna and Sterling mountains are chock full of secret stashes, hike-only terrain, backcountry tree runs, and hidden powder pockets. Newbies to the mountain cannot hope to find many of them on their own, and ski instructors act as mountain guides, showing you where all the fun stuff is. (Tip: be a hero and show your kids the best tree runs after your lesson.)

No need to sweat about snow conditions:

Families can plan their entire ski vacation carefully, but no one has control over the weather. Smuggs takes care of this worry as well with advanced—and ever-increasing—snowmaking abilities. With 150 new snowmaking guns last season and another 100 in place for this winter, families can book late or early in the season with confidence, taking advantage of school holidays and long weekends. (Though the resort’s traditional 300 inches from Mother Nature per year certainly help!)

Don’t forget about cross-country terrain:

Included in the vacation packages, the resort’s Nordic terrain includes 30 km of cross-country trails and 24 km of snowshoe terrain.  Lessons are available if you’re new to the sports, and ice skating is on-site as well (we find our kids prefer skating while we enjoy the tranquility of the trails). Rent equipment at the center or bring your own.

Teen clubs:

Teens and tweens are usually forgotten when it comes to kids’ clubs (most end at age 12), but Smuggs offers not one, but two! Kids ages 13-15 have their own space at Teen Alley, and 16-17-year-olds have access to Outer Limits. Both clubs are open for après ski fun without parents, and programming includes organized games, video game tournaments, movie nights, and dance jams. How teens have the energy for all this after a day of skiing, I’ll never know, but they do!

Photo credit: Smuggler’s Notch