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Three Oregon getaways to take without the kids

November 14, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Yes, we’re all about traveling with kids, but let’s face it: sometimes, Mom and Dad need to get away…solo. If you’re looking for a parents-only getaway in the Northwest, it’s hard to beat Oregon. Not to toot my home state’s horn too loudly, but we do have it all: nature and outdoors pursuits, wineries and farm-to-fork restaurants, and city sophistication. If you’re ready to get away, pick a date, and enjoy any of the following Oregon getaways…without the kids.

couples-getaway

Hint: couples getaways make for great holiday gifts to a spouse!

Hood River:

We were lucky enough to experience Hood River, Oregon while on a LifeCycle Adventures customized cycle tour through the Columbia River Gorge. If the idea of biking along scenic byways past fruit stands in the shadow of Mt. Hood appeals to you, I recommend booking a tour. But you can experience Hood River via a short drive from Portland, too.

Where to stay:

villa-columbia

We called the Villa Columbia home. This B&B is situated at the edge of downtown Hood River, overlooking the impressive Columbia. From the patios, watch kite boarders ‘surf’ the waves of the river, or just relax in the cozy living room of this beautiful home. If you’re cycling or paddle boarding during your stay, the villa has a full downstairs storage area for your gear, and our suite had a large jacuzzi tub and great views.

Breakfast at Villa Columbia is artfully created and served by owner Bobba, who is inspired by her Eastern European roots in her cooking (though she tells us she does not use recipes…fresh, local ingredients are all that’s needed). During our stay, we ate yogurt and granola topped with local berries and melon, then a savory crepe filled with local heirloom tomatoes, avocado, and feta cheeses.

villa-columbia

Where to eat:

You cannot go wrong with a stroll through downtown Hood River…any restaurant you choose will be great. If you’re looking for a brewery, we had a nice casual meal overlooking the river at Full Sail Brewery, where we sampled flights of beer that paired well with artisan burgers and good old fashioned fries.

For a more intimate dinner, check out the 6th Street Bistro, which also serves a lighter lunch on its patio and in the upstairs bar area. The salads are excellent, as are the beers and ciders on tap. Speaking of which, if cider is your thing, stop by Fox Tail Cider en route to Hood River, where over 10 local ciders are on tap. You can get a flight here as well (for as little as $7) or pick one to sip while pursuing their fruit stand.

What to do:

cycling-my-hood

No trip to Hood River would be complete without a drive along the Fruit Loop. This network of fruit stands and orchards span across the Columbia River Gorge, and are open for business from spring through fall. Pick up a Fruit Loop map (available just about anywhere in town) and head out for a day of fruit sampling, picnicking, and generally having a leisurely time of it.

If you’re up for something more strenuous, take a walk or bike ride along the Historic Columbia River Highway. This pedestrian and cycling-only road was once the main thoroughfare along the Gorge, and is now the perfect route for cyclists, runners, and walkers looking for great views of the river and Gorge. If walking, we recommend the hike from the parking area at Mark O. Hatfield Trailhead (west) to the first observation area along the river. If cycling, it’s possible to do the whole highway to the tiny town of Mosier in about an hour (then an hour back).

Willamette wine country:

bergstrom-willamette-valley

If your idea of a perfect parent getaway involves a winery or two, head to the Willamette Valley. Meander through the towns of Newberg and Dundee, tasting wines throughout any afternoon (though weekends are best), then end up in McMinnville for the night.

Where to stay:

Hands down, you must stay at A’ Tuscan Estate. We’re not always sold on B&Bs, but a vacation without the kids is a good opportunity to try one. You won’t be disappointed with A’ Tuscan Estate. Located about five blocks from the downtown streets, this property is actually a pair of homes. We stayed in the smaller Craftsman home, where we had the entire downstairs floor. We had use of a full kitchen, living space, dining area, bedroom, and bathroom, plus access to an outdoor garden and sitting area. We didn’t need this much room, but had we so chosen, we could have made dinner in with ingredients from a farmer’s market instead of eating out. A nice touch.

a-tuscan-estate

Be ready to be wowed in the mornings, while enjoying breakfast made by owner Jacques, who has a long and storied career in the culinary arts. Jacques served us a decadent quiche, homemade pastries, and local fruit, and told us guests must stay at his property for 17 nights before the breakfast menu will be repeated.

Note: if a B&B just isn’t your thing, we highly recommend the boutique hotel Allison Inn, located nearby.

Where to eat:

When not being pampered by Jacques, head downtown in McMinnville to eat at La Rambla, a Spanish cuisine establishment with a great vibe. La Rambla is casual but intimate, which to me, means romantic without being stuffy. There’s a great bar at La Rambla, an extensive wine list, and great tapas. Before deciding, however, it’s a good idea to check the ‘board’ a block away at Thistle, the local farm-to-fork offering. Thistle’s chalk board menu is constantly revolving…during our stay, we preferred the offerings at La Rambla, but it could have just as easily gone the other way.

What to do:

bergstrom-winery

You’re in wine country, so the #1 activity during your weekend away will be wine tasting. (Yes, it’s a hard life.) Pinot Noir is the variety of choice here, and you’ll find the best offerings in Dundee, Newberg, and McMinnville. We headed out to the Chehalem Mountains region of the valley, where we could hit Adelsheim, known regionally for their pinot, then Bergstrom (right up the street). Each have a very different feel: at Adelseim, you’ll get detailed tasting notes at a sleek granite bar, and at Bergstrom, you can sit on the patio overlooking the vineyards and chat and laugh with friends.

Grape Escape tour guide Oregon wine country

If you’re just not sure where to go, I recommend hiring Grape Escape for the day. These guys know Willamette wine, and will take couples around the valley, making stops at suggested wineries (or your picks). We had a great day with Grape Escape, and can’t wait to do it again.

Portland:

Living in Oregon, we enjoy many Portland weekend getaways. Most of the time, we experience Portland with kids, but every once in a while, we need to get away solo. Our ideal Portland Oregon getaway…without the kids…looks a bit like this:

Where to stay:

hotel-monaco

When it comes to boutique hotels in Portland, everyone has their favorites. We are admitted fans of Kimpton Hotels, so our picks for a quintessential Portland experience with or without the kids include RiverPlace, Hotel Vintage Plaza, and Hotel Monaco Portland, all of which have been reviewed on Pit Stops for Kids.

On our most recent visit, we crashed at Hotel Monaco (our ultimate fave), in a king premiere suite. For the first half hour or so after checking in, we just basked in the luxury of it, from the jacuzzi tub to the plush robes to the sitting room area with downtown views. I adore Hotel Monaco’s high ceilings, quirky decor, and fun furniture.

hotel-monaco-pdx

We came to our senses in time to remember Hotel Monaco’s happy hour downstairs, and got ourselves a glass of Oregon pinot on the house, then played a game of giant Janga. Yes, that’s a thing. The Hotel Monaco lobby is more like a living room, with drinks set out, comfy sofas and a fireplace, and usually, a resident dog.

I love the mini bar offerings in Hotel Monaco rooms (and the ample mini fridge space for those dinner leftovers) and the doormen and front desk staff are exceptionally helpful with directions and reservations. Every time I’m here, I truly feel welcomed back and pampered…a feeling that’s rarer and rarer in travel.

hotel-monaco-pdx

In the mornings, I like to exercise at Hotel Monaco (the exercise room is on the 9th floor, so there’s no need to traipse through the lobby while sweaty), then grab Starbucks coffee or hot chocolate with all the fixings in the lobby. There’s coffee in the room, too, of course, as well as wifi. Just become a Kimpton member to access wifi for free…easy peasy!

Parking at Hotel Monaco is a valet affair, but reasonably priced for the city. If you drive a hybrid car, expect to pay half rate! We recommend leaving your car with the valet and taking MAX or walking through downtown Portland…no need to hassle with it again.

Where to eat:

Portland happy hour

We’ve rounded up a number of fun happy hour spots in the city. You can’t go wrong with any of the above, but should you not want to leave your hotel, the Red Star Tavern is attached to Hotel Monaco. They have a good happy hour menu of small plates, and inventive cocktails. Their bar is lively but chill, and couples can as easily cozy up in a booth instead up belly up to the bar.

Interested in comfort food? Check out Mother’s Bistro, located at . Mother’s is our go-to pick for soups, mac and cheese, and other wintery weather fare when Portland is experiencing its signature drizzle, and has a killer brunch on Sunday mornings (it will be crowded!).

Prefer to eat on the go? We love Portland food trucks! Located in designated pods around the downtown sector of the city, food truck fare ranges from gourmet pasta dishes to inventive burgers to ramen noodles. Grab something and eat it along the Willamette, on a bench overlooking the water.

What to do:

We love walking or hiking through Portland parks or enjoying a leisurely browse through Powell’s. This cavernous bookstore takes up an entire city block, and includes a coffee shop. You’ll need a map to navigate it all (available at the entrances) and without the kids in tow, you can expect to be there a while.

Portland Tom McCall Park

If you hit Portland during a weekend from spring through fall, the Portland Saturday Market is a must. Located under the Burnside Bridge, this outdoor market and street faire will keep you busy all day. Stroll through the stalls, people-watch, and sample local produce and artisan foods. Tip: start here, then spend your late afternoon at Powell’s.

On sunny days, a walk through Portland’s Pearl District or a drive out of the city through the Columbia Gorge can be a great day trip. Head out I-84 and stop at Multnomah Falls, then detour onto the historic river highway. After all, you’re in no rush!

Visit Whidbey Island with kids: Exploring Coupeville

November 12, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Whidbey Island may be small, but it’s tall, as my sons have noted after a map study. When families come to visit Whidbey Island with kids, it’s useful to stay in the center of the island, within easy access of attractions such as Deception Pass to the north, and the Clinton ferry landing to the south. The best home base: Coupeville.

Coupeville WA is located within the boundaries of Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve, which means its historical buildings and landmarks have been preserved. What remains is a beautiful little town on the shore, with quaint shops, fun eateries, and a lovely pier. We recommend spending at least one full day exploring the island’s many state parks, then at least one more visiting its many farms, agricultural stands, and farm-to-table restaurants.

Every year, Whidbey Island plays host to a free farm tour. Can’t make it? That’s ok: there are Whidbey Island farms perfect for kids at any time. Start at Greenbank, located in Loveland near Coupeville in the heart of the island. Greenbank has its own organic farm school, and 151 acres of public farmland as well as historic farm buildings. Families can visit the gardens, but kids and adults alike will really love checking out the shops onsite. Kids can sample pies, farm cheese, and numerous other artisan, local food items in the farm store.

If you can’t get enough farm store goodness, make 3 Sisters Market your next stop. Operated by 3 Sisters Beef, this shop sells the sisters’ (yes, they exist and we met them!) grass-fed beef and also showcases many other farm fresh products from around the island. It’s located on Holbrook Road in Coupeville.

In the town of Coupeville, visit Lavender Wind Farm, where you can not only buy island-grown lavender products, but kids can get a feel for the many uses of this plant. Sample lavender tea, lavender cookies, and lavender lotions. Across the street, stop by Bay Leaf for an artisan sandwich and a chance to see gourmet food products from France. They also sell Penn Cove Shellfish mussels, which are harvested right on the island.

Stroll through town, and take time to walk the pier and see marine exhibits at the end. Coupeville also has a nice bookstore and toy store.

Where to stay:

In Coupeville, we stayed at Blue Goose Inn, a bed & breakfast in the heart of town. Blue Goose is comprised of two historic Victorian homes (side by side) and has beautifully appointed, comfortable rooms. The sitting rooms are historic but cozy to utilize to read a book or work on your computer (there’s wifi throughout), and the breakfast is served in a sun porch overlooking the water. The food was all homemade and primarily locally-sourced…another good hands-on lesson for kids learning about farm-to-fork eating.

If you have young kids who cannot stay in a B&B room solo (rooms are double occupancy only at Blue Goose), there is a garden suite with kitchen and more space. We also recommend the family-friendly lodge units at Captain Whidbey, an historic inn just outside of town. This property is right on the water, with beautiful grounds and an on-site dining room for a nice meal in.

Have you toured Whidbey Island? What did you like best?

Exploring Port Townsend with kids

November 7, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Located at the very tip of Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula, Port Townsend has a lot to offer families. From the quaint waterfront town with its lively history to a storied military presence, exploring Port Townsend with kids includes hiking trails, fort batteries, ice cream shops, and touch tanks! Here’s what’s in store (and where to stay):

Downtown Port Townsend:

It’s easy to see the charm of this small town as soon as you enter, whether via road from elsewhere on the peninsula or by boat (more on that later). The shipyards are open to the public, which means boat-loving kids can see dry-docked vessels up close and personal, and Union Wharf offers great views of the ferry.

Start on Water Street, where kids will want to view the wooden boat outside the NW Maritime Center, then head across the street to City Hall Museum run by the Jefferson County Historical Society. We would have overlooked this museum had I not been taken there by a local: inside the historic courtroom, visitors can get an overview of the town’s history, then go downstairs to see old jail cells (Jack London is rumored to have spent a night inside) and exhibits on the region’s pioneering, Japanese, and native cultures.

Right nearby is Dogs-a-Foot, a hot dog stand with every type of hot dog desired. It’s a perfect lunch pit stop, with tables outside. Afterward, continue your stroll down Water Street for a stop at Elevated Ice Cream. This locally-owned and operated ice cream shop offers unique, locally-sourced flavors, and has a chocolate shop and candy store located next door.

Stop into any other shops that interest you; you’ll find a great local bookstore and numerous galleries. Note the historic architecture; Port Townsend has some of the best preserved buildings in the NW. If you have your car with you, don’t forget about ‘uptown’: historic Port Townsend built on both the wharf and in the hills, and families will find the best Victorian architecture overlooking the downtown region. This area features a lot of the town’s B&Bs, but you’ll also find wonderful bakeries, diners, and shops.

Note: If you’re in the downtown/shipyard area for breakfast, you’ll want to head to the Blue Moose Cafe on Haines for an authentic home-cooked meal. This local hangout is right in the shipyards, and has been overseen by the current cook (not chef!) for decades.

Fort Worden State Park:

We’re pretty sure Fort Worden State Park is the heart of Port Townsend as far as kids are concerned. This sprawling park is located just outside of downtown on the coast, with beach access, hiking trails, and picnic grounds. The central feature of Fort Worden is the fort, which served as defense against invasion during WWI. The invasion never came, but the many fort batteries remain, with platforms for artillery, ammunition storage rooms, and many more intriguing spaces for kids to explore. The batteries are open to the public, which is a very welcome feature in a world that has increasingly shut doors on historical sites. Kids will love climbing on them, running through their creepy, dark tunnels and hallways, and generally playing soldier. Parental supervision is absolutely needed, of course; small children could fall or get lost. Don’t worry, you’ll want to explore the batteries just as much! Prepare to spend hours here!

In addition to the batteries, Fort Worden is home to the Marine Science Center, located right on Battery Way. It’s open from April through October, with innovative saltwater touch tanks. The center staff bring sea life into the tanks in the spring, and release all the creatures in the fall. Daily, fresh salt water from the ocean adjacent is flushed into the tanks. Kids can touch many marine animals, and see more in additional aquariums. Across the street, the education building houses a whale skeleton and other educational exhibits with a conservation theme.

There are numerous walking trails through Fort Worden (grab a trail map when you enter) and some take kids to additional batteries (less crowded than the one near the beach). There are several campgrounds, and yes, the beach has swimming access. The Point Wilson lighthouse makes for a great backdrop to your Olympic Peninsula beach day!

Inland from the beach, the campus of Fort Worden remains, though quieter than in its active days. Currently, buildings and rooms can be rented for vacation stays, allowing families to further immerse themselves in the area’s history.

Yes, you can stay the night in Fort Worden!

Rentals include full homes on Officers’ Row, units in the Non-Commissioned Officers’ Row, or dormitory rooms. I checked out an Officer’s Row house, where I stayed the night overlooking the campus and ocean. Officers’ Row houses include 1 and 1/2 bathrooms, four bedrooms, a parlor and a dining room, and a full kitchen. It’s fun to see firsthand how officers and their families lived during WWI. These houses are not newly renovated, but are comfortable and very spacious. Kids can play outside, and everyone can walk to the beach, the light house, and the batteries. There is no wifi, but in the check-in building (which is newer), there is a sitting room and a coffee counter where your java and wifi needs can be met.

Beyond Port Townsend proper, the Olympic Discovery Trail weaves 120 miles between the town and La Push, on the western coast, and of course, the rest of the Olympic Peninsula beckons with Olympic National Park and numerous additional hiking trails and beaches. Read more about Olympic National Park with kids!

How to get here:

Port Townsend and Fort Worden are located on Highway 20, which connects with Highway 101. Families can also take Washington State ferries directly to town from Whidbey Island (Coupeville) or take the Puget Sound Express from the San Juan Islands. We recommend booking a whale watching trip with this company, even if you don’t need them for transportation to the peninsula. On our trip with Puget Sound Express, we saw humpback whales, porpoises, and harbor seals.

Port Townsend

Couples getaway: Oregon cycle tour with LifeCycle Adventures

October 22, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

At Pit Stops for Kids, we’re fans of adventurous travel for kids, so it will come as no surprise that when we want to get away for an adults-only vacation, my husband Charlie and I prefer an active, outdoorsy pursuit of our own.

We also love wineries, outside-the-box local lodging, and farm-to-fork dining, indulgences absolutely possible to enjoy with kids, but— if we’re being honest here —even more enjoyable as a couples getaway. How to combine everything we like into one getaway? We found LifeCycle Adventures, an Oregon cycle tour company that offers customized cycling getaways.

Check it out!

LifeCycle Adventures hosts tours in Oregon, California, Hawaii, and the San Juan Islands of Washington. Because their Oregon tour routes are in our backyard, we headed to Portland, where we overnighted downtown at Hotel Monaco PDX (our favorite Kimpton hotel) before meeting LifeCycle Adventures owner Tony Blakey for a three-day ride.

Tony’s Oregon itineraries include a Willamette Valley tour, focusing on area wineries and featuring rolling terrain and quaint college towns, and a Columbia River Gorge tour, which takes cyclists around Mt. Hood before dropping them into the spectacular Columbia River Gorge at Hood River. We sampled a bit of both, so I could tell all you cycling parents out there which to book. As it turns out, we couldn’t decide which we liked better, so the good news is, you can’t go wrong.

Willamette Valley experience:

LifeCycle Adventures’ Willamette routes take cyclists from the outskirts of Portland through Forest Grove to McMinnville or Newberg, both in the heart of wine country. I say ‘routes’ instead of ‘route’ because every tour is customizable. Before embarking, we had communication with Tony via email or phone, during which we outlined our cycling experience (not much) and our objectives for our trip (to work up just enough of a sweat to ‘earn’ nice meals each evening). From our information, Tony compiled three route options per day, all ending at the same lodging location but offering various mileage. We could then choose our route as late as the day-of, after assessing sore muscles.

We started our journey with a quite easy 20 mile ride from beautiful Stewart ‘Stub’ State Park along the Banks-Vernonia State Trail, which is a car-free bike path. At the tiny town of Banks, we transitioned to quiet country highways en route to Forest Grove. We had a great lunch at Maggie’s Buns, then transferred by van (hello, Tony!) to our accommodations in McMinnville. Along the way, we stopped at several Willamette Valley wineries, which we absolutely could have accessed on bike, had we wanted to ride all the way into town.

Along the way, Tony was only a phone call away, should we need him or the services of his passenger van, outfitted with bike racks, extra water bottles, the rest of our luggage, and plenty of Clif Bars.

We spent the night at A’ Tuscan Estate, a quiet and understated B&B located just a few blocks from downtown McMinnville. Quite possibly, A’ Tuscan Estate is the loveliest B&B we’ve ever experienced. Owners Jacques and Liz are perfect hosts, with a fountain of knowledge about food, dining, and the hospitality industry (just read any of the numerous books on these subjects authored by Jacques, all available for perusal in the living spaces).

We strolled the quaint downtown of McMinnville, stopping in at tasting rooms and concluding our night at La Rambla, a polished downtown eatery with Spanish cuisine. At A’ Tuscan Estate, we enjoyed an entire suite in the inn’s Craftsman bungalow, where we had a full kitchen, patio, garden, and living room should we need it. For breakfast, chef Jacques put together an amazing three-course feast, which included three kinds of juice, local fruit, a light-as-air quiche, and homemade pastry. Try getting on your bike and riding after that!

Columbia River Gorge experience:

Cyclists opting to tour the Columbia River Gorge start in or around Government Camp, Oregon, at the edge of Mt. Hood. Those wanting to go further can start lower, and begin with a climb…no thanks! We coasted from Cooper Spur, picking up speeds up to 30 miles per hour on the steep decline from the mountain. Once deposited into the fruitful valley, we stopped for a picnic lunch at a fruit stand (there are plenty en route) and then geared up (pun intended) for a steeply rolling route into Hood River. We tackled closer to 30 miles on this day, and found that with just a few stops (once to try a flight of ciders at Red Tail Fox Farm, once to take in a view of the river and Gorge), the mileage was very do-able. We rolled into Hood River around 5 pm, and checked into Villa Columbia.

This beautiful B&B is situated right off the Columbia, with views from just about every corner. The comfortable living room and dining room are available for guest use, as are the porches and an upstairs sitting room. We were in easy walking distance of Hood River dining, and decided that after our longer ride, we deserved a beer. Full Sail Brewing overlooks the river, where we could watch kite surfers while enjoying a flight and burgers.

From Hood River, cyclists can continue to follow the Columbia on day 3: we opted for the Historic Columbia River Highway, closed to cars, which parallels the river toward the Dalles. More ambitious cyclists could continue on the historic byway, but 20 miles was enough for us on Day 3!

What LifeCycle Adventures provides, and who it’s for:

We are on bikes about once a month at home, and do not consider ourselves to be serious cyclists. Because LifeCycle Adventures customizes all their itineraries, it’s a perfect getaway for anyone who is active and comfortable on a bike. For those who are ready to go out and kill it, Tony has routes for you, too.

During our trip, we came to think of LifeCycle— and Tony —as our personal concierge. He picked us up daily, transported all our luggage to our B&Bs, checked us in (so we could just jump into a shower the minute we arrived), provided us with lunch and dinner recommendations, and, best of all, provided us with detailed route instructions, tailored specifically to us.

Here’s an example of our itinerary. In addition to this, Tony offers many more maps and support documents. We felt safe and in control at all times.

This customization was perfect for us: we are familiar with the area and comfortable on bikes, but not familiar with biking the area. Every morning, we had a briefing with Tony, during which he showed us our route on a map, then —and this is the kicker —provided us with detailed step-by-step directions and maps, which we could keep at the ready on our bikes. We were equipped with bike pumps, directions, snacks, and phone numbers, so we never felt overwhelmed by routes or road challenges.

Before our trip, Tony meticulously created a customized tour book with our exact routes and mileage, plus town guides for each of our destinations. I’ve never seen such detail put into a customized itinerary. If you want to try an cycling adventure but don’t want to be responsible for planning out a complicated route based on abilities, traffic, and road conditions, absolutely leave it to Tony.

Included in a LifeCycle tour is use of bikes and helmets, full route planning, overnight accommodations, which are also customizable (you pick your price range), and full ground support. Our accommodations provided breakfasts, and we bought lunches and dinners on our own.

Can kids go?

Tony welcomes families with kids, and reports that older kids and teens do best. When deciding whether to bring the kids, keep in mind that while the riding can be modified to fit almost anyone, the general pace of a cycling trip is more leisurely than most kids enjoy. We lingered over meals, slept in (wow!) and spent most of each day on a bike or at a winery or fruit stand. Kids who are very into cycling will love it. Others may be looking for a more varied trip by Day 2. You decide!

How to book:

There’s a wealth of information on the LIfeCycle Adventures website, and I recommend doing a thorough reading, then calling the company to talk to someone in person. Tony and his team will be able to plan something perfect for your abilities, budget, and time frame.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced our cycling itinerary as compliments of LifeCycle Adventures, for the purpose of review. All opinions…and sore muscles… are my own.

Family dude ranch vacation: a stay at Triangle X Ranch

October 8, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

There are many family dude ranch vacation options to choose from, and the time to book for next summer is…now. Dude ranches fill up fast, as many families book repeat visits. What sets Triangle X Ranch apart?

Let’s start with the family history. And I’m not talking about the Turner family history, even though this Wyoming family has owned and run the ranch for five generations (and counting). I’m talking about the guests’ family histories. During my time at the ranch, I talked to not one, not two or three, but the vast majority of guests who told me they’ve been coming to Triangle X for years, some decades. Parents brought their children, who now bring their children. Grandparents bring the grandkids. Children grow up coming, from age six up.

triangle-x-ranch

And yes, this is your view daily. When I asked one guest how he’d heard about the ranch, he explained that his parents had met here, and that none other than Harold Turner, current patriarch of the ranch, had been their best man. Triangle X may be owned by the Turner family, but longtime guests consider it pretty much theirs, and treat it with the appropriate care, bordering on devotion.

family-dude-ranch-vacation

Is all this history intimidating to new families, exploring Triangle X for the first time? It can be. The first day of our week-long visit, we watched multiple ‘Triangle X reunions’, as families embraced after a year apart. It felt as though everyone else knew where to sit in the Main House dining room, where to gather for a game of cards, and each others’ names. But it didn’t take us long to notice something else: everyone was welcoming. Without exception, every guest was quick to introduce themselves, and offer a tidbit of information about the ranch.

triangle-x-ranch

Due to communal dining and recreation, we quickly met other families who were at Triangle X for the first time. Our kids blended quickly and easily into groups where many children already knew one another, and thanks to social mixers, dances, and multiple riding options, we adults did the same.

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Most people seem to hear about Triangle X by word-of-mouth, but those who find it through research learn that it’s the only dude ranch operating inside the boundaries of Grand Teton National Park. It’s all-inclusive, focused primarily on horseback riding, and structured with a ‘family camp’ vibe. The setting cannot be beat—the Tetons are your backdrop for the entire week—and the children’s programming is at once intensive and casual. What you get is great riding in a family-friendly atmosphere.

Triangle-X-Ranch

It’s all about the riding.

While families can certainly take days or half-days off to hike, raft, or relax, the primary focus of Triangle X is definitely horseback riding. It’s a dude ranch in the traditional sense: on the Monday morning of each weeklong stay, each guest is paired with a horse who will stay with him or her through Saturday. Two rides per day are scheduled, with multiple options for all riding levels. Guests let the ranch know their riding abilities and experience pre-stay, and on check-in day (Sunday evening), head wrangler Megan comes by each cabin to introduce herself and answer any questions.

riding-at-triangle-x

During our stay, the following dizzying array of ride options were offered morning and afternoon: fast ride, medium ride (sometimes a fast-medium ride), scenic walk ride, lesson ride, kids’ ride, and teen ride. Within the lesson ride category, rides were organized into walking lessons, trotting lessons, and loping lessons. Not sure where to start? Ask Megan.

triangle-x-ranch

Tip: If you have little or no experience on a horse, a lesson ride is a great idea. Start slow: the week is long, and you’ll get plenty of time to step things up. In my experience, lesson rides are the only place to get instruction. All other rides will proceed assuming you know the basics. For kids and teens with little experience, the kids’ ride starts out slow, then divides into several smaller groups based on experience level. Parents can ride with kids and teens on their rides, but not vice versa; no kids on adult rides.

dude-ranch-vacations

Daily rides start from the ranch, and follow one of many trails in the national park boundary. My favorites meandered along the banks of the Snake River. Depending on the ride you select, the group may be loping long distances, forging streams, or navigating narrow trails. On every ride, a wrangler oversees the group. Safety is important, but only discussed on Monday morning, so as noted above, a lesson ride will help those with less experience. Rides depart at 9 am and 2 pm, and last a few hours each. On select days, additional or different rides are offered, such as a sunset cookout ride, an all-day ride high into the mountains, and a family ride. Guests can, of course, opt out of any scheduled ride, and do something else instead.

Kids and teens:

triangle-x-ranch

At Triangle X, kids and teens have their own distinct programs, and are separated from adults most of the time. This, of course, can be viewed as a positive or a negative. While we usually experience vacations as a family, I have to say my kids loved their uninterrupted friend time on the ranch. Kids age 6-12 eat in their own dining area, and ride together morning and afternoon. Teens 13-17 do the same. Both groups have their own dedicated wranglers. The kid and teen program is not as structured as a ‘resort program’, where kids are checked in and out and multiple activities are offered; rather, it’s an organic experience that seems to hold together like glue. Expect wranglers to be supervising during rides, but not during time around the ranch. At times, adult rides or activities would be scheduled during kid free time; you’ll want one adult to be on-hand to check in on your ‘free range’ kids. Children share cabins with their families, of course, and in the evenings and between rides, can opt for family time or friend time (they have the run of the ranch).

Lodging:

triangle-x-cabins

I’d describe the Triangle X cabins as ‘upscale rustic’. Our ‘Berry’ cabin slept six, with three bedrooms and two bathrooms, but most were smaller, with 1-2 bedrooms. Each has a covered porch with chairs, electricity, heater, and a small refrigerator. It’s worth noting that cabins do not have wifi, phones, or TVs. Maid service is available, or families can opt for fresh towels only. We were perfectly comfortable. Most cabins have views of the Tetons, with the exception of the few at the far end of the first row. These have wooded views, which I found just as charming.

Dining:

triangle-x-dining

Expect ‘camp’ or ‘ranch’ fare, and you’ll go home happy. We were completely satisfied with the dining service, but foodies should note: it is not gourmet. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are all served communally in the lovely dining room, with coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and water available at all times. Beer and wine are BYO, and can be brought to the table. When away from the ranch, sack lunches can be requested (the night before). We were never hungry, but we were also never wowed. Since we hadn’t expected to be, we were perfectly content. All food is kid-friendly, and allergies or special preferences are accommodated.

Other activities:

snake-river

If (or rather, when) you need a break from riding, Triangle X also offers guided fishing trips and float trips. The Turner family knows their stuff, so you’re in good hands. The ranch is also only 10 minutes from excellent hiking, swimming, and and kayaking in Grand Tetons, and approximately 45 minutes from Yellowstone National Park. Jackson Hole is 30 minutes away, where most families plan to attend the weekly rodeo.

snake-river

During our stay, we hiked directly from the Triangle X property, drove to Jackson Lake and String Lake in Grand Tetons, and enjoyed Jackson. On one day of the week, the teens head to town for a movie, and on another, the kids enjoy their own float trip down the Snake.

Cost:

Triangle X is an all-inclusive vacation, and the weekly rate ranges from about $1800-$2200 per person, in the peak season. See rates for full details.

Why consider a dude ranch vacation:

family-dude-ranch-vacation

After experiencing Triangle X, I favorably compare it to other low guest ratio inclusive vacation experiences like small-ship cruises, adventure travel operations, and boutique all-inclusives. You can unpack once, stay a week, and parents have nothing to worry about, from planning recreation to planning meals. Yes, you’ll need to enjoy horseback riding, but that’s stating the obvious. (You wouldn’t take a ski vacation if you didn’t like—or didn’t want to try—skiing, right?) After a week with Triangle X, we left saddle sore, but happy, relaxed, and ready to tackle the rest of our summer with renewed energy.

wildflowers

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced Triangle X as guests of the ranch. Despite the fact that my kids wanted to move in, all opinions remain our own.

Top reasons why Breckenridge is a perfect family ski vacation

September 22, 2014 By Sharlene Earnshaw

Pit Stops for Kids is happy to take part in the third annual Back to Ski Week, which includes tips on planning a family ski vacation as well as chances to win prizes. To learn more visit the Back to Ski site and sign up for the newsletter, follow @back2ski on Twitter, or like it on Facebook.

Today we hear from inveterate outdoorswoman and lover of the Rockies Amber Johnson of The Mile High Mama about why a visit to Breckenridge, Colorado is perfect for families interested in fun on the slopes. We were compensated for writing this post; all opinions are the author’s.

From our perch atop Breckenridge Ski Resort’s Peak 6, our senses were in overdrive—first, the sound of silence, followed by the wind clinking through patches of hoarfrost crystals. My husband and I eased off the chairlift as our ski tips sliced through our powder playground, tracing hourglasses down the mountain.

Coloradoans are spoiled with 25 ski resorts but if you’re looking for the perfect winter vacation, look no further than Breckenridge. This authentic mining town 1.5 hours from Denver has it all: a world-class ski resort, the Blue River (a tributary of the raging Colorado River), an idyllic Main Street, gourmet dining, and glittering boutiques. It is also part of an 80-mile network of paved, motorized bike paths that connect other Summit County resorts like Dillon, Keystone, Copper Mountain, and Vail.

Here are just a few more reasons why this upscale yet laid-back resort is one of the best for families.

Ski Bums:

Breckenridge Ski Area sprawls across the southern sector of Summit County’s Tenmile Range and is consistently ranked as one of the most visited ski areas in the country. But with an impressive 2,908 acres and 34 lifts, the crowds dissipate the higher you go as you carve out your own private Colorado.

After dropping our kids off at ski school, my husband and I did the “freedom” shout and warmed up on groomer Duke’s Run before heading over to Peak 6. As Breck’s new 543-acre addition, it features high-alpine, intermediate bowl skiing (a true rarity).

Peak 6 lives up to its hype so long as you are attempting this timberline-topping terrain on a bluebird day. If there is any trace of wind or snow, you’ll feel like you are trapped inside a snow globe. Fortunately with a resort this size, there are plenty of other areas to take cover or fly high, including four award-winning terrain parks and a 22-foot superpipe.

At the end of an exhausting day, we picked the kids up from ski school and were later able to track their progress via the EpicMix app’s newest feature, EpicMix Academy. Though the wind kept us from the Golden Runner Alpine Coaster, the kids are already begging to take us back to their favorite haunts that included Trygve’s small terrain park with moderate jumps and boxes.

Tip: There’s no parking at the base so park for free in the Gondola parking lots in town and take the BreckConnection Gondola to the base of Peak 8. A complimentary shuttle also runs throughout town and delivered us right in front of Pine Ridge Condos where we proceeded to soak in the hot tub and then burrow up to a fire and a movie while a storm raged outside. That, my friends, is what a ski vacation is all about.

Good Times Dog Sledding:

TripAdvisor ranks dog sledding as the No. 1 activity in Breckenridge so you’d better believe it is epic. Good Times Adventures is the only snowmobile and dog sledding tour operator in Summit County and offers a 6-mile tour that is perfect for families (adults are $75; children ages 4-8 are $40).

We became acquainted with our team of Siberian Huskies and learned how they are attached to the sled with a series of lines called rigging that includes the tow line (or gang line), tug lines and neck lines. Each sled had a basket where gear or a passenger was carried and were outfitted with a braking device.

Good Times offers various levels of dog sledding and we chose the tamer “Disney” experience. I was thrilled when our guide announced the kids would get to drive the team during our slow and steady uphill climbs (many dog sledding operators only let their clients sit in the basket). They were in their element; rosy-cheeked, their “MUSH” commands echoing through the trees as the pitter-patter of husky paws on snow distilled Colorado’s Swan River Valley to its purest incarnation.

After my son’s turn, he moved to the basket while I drove him for the first time. Notoriously cautious when faced with new challenges, he lectured me, “Now, Mom. Lean into your turns and remember…have a good time!”

With Good Times Adventures, it’s tough to do otherwise.

More Breck fun:

Cross-country skiing. Breckenridge may be known for its ample snow and giant halfpipes, but the resort also has more than 30 miles of cross-country trails, plus an additional 25 trails in the surrounding White River National Forest.

Skating. Children of all ages love the Stephen C. West Ice Arena, which offers both an indoor and outdoor ice rink. Located on Boreas Pass Road, it is open for public skating seven days a week.

Sledding. Grab your tube and join the locals over at Carter Park, one of the few places to sled in town. The hill is located at the south end of High Street and adjacent to Breckenridge Elementary School.

Main Street. This charming Historic District is dotted with boutiques, eateries and galleries. My kids are huge fans of the unique Peak a Boo Toys (and the big indoor play area is a bonus on cold days). The town’s Arts District recently showcased seven new buildings and will offer expanded workshops for travelers, especially kids. If you stop at the Welcome Center, head upstairs for some cool old ski exhibits and a great view of the slopes. Also check-out the Mountain Top Children’s Museum, which is perfect for younger kids with out-of-the-box, imaginative exhibits.

Events. Breckenridge has an awesome line-up of events but our favorites include Ullr Fest (In 2015 from January 11-17), where the community plays tribute to the Norse God of Snow. Also in January, the International Snow Sculpture Championships hosts snow artists from across the globe transform 20-ton blocks of snow into an outdoor art gallery.

Want help planning your Breckenridge trip? Be sure to visit the GoBreck website.

Where to stay in DC: Grand Hyatt Washington

September 12, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Wondering where to stay in DC? We love Grand Hyatt hotels. When budget allows, the Grand Hyatt option ensures great service and even better amenities. (Check out our additional Grand Hyatt reviews for Seattle, San Diego, and Kauai.)

Grand Hyatt Washington is no exception. With a great location on H Street (five blocks from the Mall and four from the White House), a Metro stop in the building, and a pool, it’s excellent for families visiting Washington DC with kids.

Room amenities:

I don’t know what it is about them, but Grand Hyatt beds are amazingly comfortable. We stayed in a standard double room, which included a mini-fridge, large flat-screen TV, shower and bath, and free wifi. We had an iPod docking station and a work desk with multiple charging docks/plug-ins, which was very welcome. We had a view of H street and free wifi, but it’s the little touches I love most: the bedside reading lights, the illuminating glow of the bed stand light panels, and the killer in-room coffee (that’s unusual!).

Hyatt Grand Club:

For approximately $75 per day, families can upgrade their room to include Grand Club access (or book a 12th floor club room). We had club access during our stay, and it worked very well for us. What’s included: the Grand Club is located on the 12th floor, and accessible only if your keycard is activated. In the club, a private dining area includes iPads and TVs, plus a computer station and printer and newspapers. Cold and hot drinks, including soda, waters, coffee, tea, and hot chocolate are available at all times. During breakfast hours, a full continental breakfast, including lox, cheeses, oatmeal, quiche, cereals, danish, breads, and juices, is on offer. During lunch, expect a full lunch spread with sandwich makings, etc. Between lunch and dinner, a trail mix station, cold drinks, and homemade cookies are available, plus fresh fruit. At dinner, appetizers include cheese plates, crab cakes, small salads, sushi, and the like (it’s different every night). Can you make a full meal of it? We do! During dinner, wine, beer, and liquor are also on-hand, paid by an honor system. In the late evening, desserts are set out.

If you’re at the club during these meal hours, the upgrade is absolutely worth the price, especially if you’re feeding the whole family. Before deciding, take a hard look at your itinerary to decide where you’ll be during meals. We’ve found that it’s worth it to us if we eat breakfast there, plus one other meal, eating the other out on the town. It’s also wonderful to grab cold water bottles or juice every day before heading out. In DC, there’s lots of walking and it can be hot, so we returned to the room daily for a break, allowing us to take advantage of the club.

Hotel amenities:

The Hyatt uses the on-site FIT club for its guests, which includes a full fitness center and indoor pool. There’s a sauna in the locker rooms (for adults only). The pool is small and can get crowded, but is still an luxury to have in a downtown city hotel.

We appreciated the free wifi throughout the hotel, and the bellman service. There is valet parking (I believe it was $40 per day), and the Metro’s Center Station is located below the lobby. We didn’t need a car at all: we either walked, took a taxi, or took the Metro everywhere in the city center. (For reference, a cab ride to or from nearly all points along the Mall cost about $6. In the summer heat, it was worth it.)

The hotel has a concierge on-hand during daytime hours, available in the hotel lobby. Definitely take advantage of his or her expertise.

Dining:

We dined in the Grand Club, but there are numerous restaurants onsite, including a Starbucks, deli, casual ‘Grand Slam’ restaurant, the upscale Grand Cafe, and local favorite Cure bistro. Room service is also available. In short, you won’t need to leave the hotel for food if you don’t want to. If you do venture out, Five Guys is located two blocks away, and Shake Shack is four blocks away on 9th.

Date last visited:

July 2014

Distance from the interstate:

Close to I-95, I-66, and I-395.

Rates:

Rate vary widely, depending on the season. During the time of our 4th of July visit, rates were above $400 per night, but can be as low as $159 per night. Don’t assume any hotel is out of your price range until you’ve checked the current rates.

Directions:

The Grand Hyatt is located at 1000 H Street, only blocks from just about everything. Take the Metro to the Metro Center station from the airport, or take a cab if you don’t have a car.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we were guests of the Grand Hyatt during our stay. All opinions are our own.

Top 5 family-friendly Washington DC hotels

September 9, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Washington DC and Disney World have something in common: both destinations require a lot of walking. And I mean, a lot. But here’s where they differ (aside from the obvious): approximately 90% of kid-friendly attractions in Washington DC are free. Try getting that deal at Disney! Why do I make this unlikely comparison? To emphasize the importance of picking the right Washington DC hotel. Without a doubt, your DC lodging will be the most expensive part of your trip. Many families decide to book hotels outside the city, as far away as Maryland or Virginia, and take the Metro in to see the sights. While this can save money, it will not save your tired feet, and it will take away from your touring time.

Do yourself a favor and stay at one of the following DC hotels in the heart of the action. You’ll spend more, but if you book through TripAdvisor ShopAtHome.com, you can get some pretty good deals, plus you’ll save on museums, tours, and entertainment your entire visit! Note: parking fees will be high at all the below locations. We highly advise not renting a car.

1. Grand Hyatt Washington DC

We spent four lovely nights at the Grand Hyatt DC Washington DC while exploring the sights last July. What makes the Hyatt our top pick? It’s only four blocks from the Mall and five blocks from the White House, it has numerous dining options on-site and nearby, and…wait for it…it has a the Central Metro station in the lobby. Grand Hyatt guests have access to a fitness club and indoor pool located in the same building (though the pool is small, it’s a nice amenity), and it offers the Hyatt Grand Club. If you’re not familiar, Hyatt Grand Clubs are absolutely worth the upgrade (it will cost you approximately $75 extra per day). The Grand Club is open all day, and puts out a full breakfast, full lunch, snacks, and dinner appetizers (that can work as a full dinner, depending on what your kids will eat). Desserts come out at night! Of course, you won’t be in the hotel to take advantage of each meal, but it can pay for itself with breakfast and bottled waters alone.

2. Embassy Suites Chevy Chase Pavilion

Renovations are currently underway at Chevy Chase Pavilion, but even while construction is ongoing, this hotel is a great pick for families. It’s located directly on the Red Line at the Friendship Heights Metro stop, and no one does a free breakfast better than Embassy Suites. There’s an indoor pool and exercise facility, and while it’s further off the beaten path than the Grand Hyatt (you won’t be walking to the Mall), you’ll get big bang for your buck in the large rooms with sleeping areas separate from living areas.

3. The Hay-Adams

If you want to go the luxury route, or simply want the best DC location money can buy, head to the Hay-Adams. The first time we stayed here, I was a young girl, and gullible enough to believe the staff member who convinced me the hotel got its name because Jefferson would look out his White House window and yell, ‘Hey! Adams!’. Ok, not true at all, but the Hay-Adams is within shouting distance of the White House. The views are fantastic, the hotel is charmingly historic, and you’ll feel like royalty…American style.

4. Hilton Garden Inn Washington (downtown)

The Hilton Garden Inn is located on 14th, within walking distance of the Mall, Capitol, and White House (though not as close as the Grand Hyatt or Hay-Adams). You do get one big perk, however: free WIFI, which is rare in downtown hotels. Also excellent for families: refrigerators and microwaves in the rooms. Go ahead and make your own breakfast or evening snacks in-house! An indoor pool rounds out the family-friendly amenities.

5. Marriott Residence Inn Washington

We love Marriott Residence Inns! The downtown Washington location is in the Federal Building area, only two blocks from the Mall and one block from the Metro. You’ll get a free hot breakfast every day, and lower rates for longer stays. You’re half a mile from the Smithsonian museums, and suites are the norm, allowing families to spread out. We walked past this Residence Inn as we walked back and forth to the Mall from the Grand Hyatt, and looked at it a bit longingly!

Wherever you decide to stay in Washington DC, be sure to take advantage of the many Smithsonian museums, take a day to tour the national monuments, take in a festival or two on the Mall, and tour the US Capitol and White House. Yes, all the above are free of charge! Now, go save 25% on your hotel when you book through TripAdvisor ShopAtHome.com.

Virginia farm stay with kids: Belle Meade Farm

September 5, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

We’d planned to tour Shenandoah National Park on our full day in Western Virginia; instead, on a sunny Monday in June, I found myself lazying on the dock of the inviting pond at Belle Meade Farm, the kids practicing their high dive from one of the pond’s wooden platforms. Earlier, we’d followed the advice of Belle Meade’s resident chef and explored a little-known trail at the base of Old Rag Mountain, leading to inviting swimming holes, and were now well-settled into a routine of swimming, canoeing, and reading. We’d made the right call.

Belle Meade Farm’s bed & breakfast focuses on sustainable living, hospitality, and farm life, and offers four rooms (with varied occupancy) on its 138 acres adjacent to Shenandoah National Park. For a Virginia farm stay with kids, it can’t be beat. The property plays host to streams, meadows, incredible views, and a holistic farm housing pigs, horses, cattle, and chickens. Guests can use the outdoor spaces, including a large outdoor pool and hot tub, patio, deck overlooking Old Rag Mountain, and a cozy living room and dining room. Owners Mike and Susan can point families in the direction of local activities and destinations, or direct kids to the on-site swimming pond with floating docks, diving platforms, a rope swing, and canoes. Yes, it’s heaven.

We visited during the middle of a long tour of the East Coast between visiting historic Williamsburg and Washington DC. A stop at a farm stay with Susan and Mike was just the break we all needed to rewind, regroup, and relax before tackling more city life and history.

Farm stay component:

Like all farm stay destinations we review, Belle Meade is a working farm. We love getting involved, helping with chores and caring for livestock. However, like all farm stays, the amount of ‘work’ we do depends solely on what’s needed at the time, and at the farm owners’ discretion. During our stay at Belle Meade, the kids collected eggs, helped put the animals ‘to bed’ at night, and fed the pigs, rabbits, and horses. However, what’s on offer during another families’ stay may vary. I always remind my kids prior to any farm stay that ‘we’ll see’ what’s needed. Mike was generous with his time, and great about letting us know when an opportunity to help was at hand.

Bed and breakfast:

Think a B&B can’t be for kids? Well, sometimes (and some places) that’s true, but not at Belle Meade. Kids are welcome, but as with any B&B, I only recommend bringing kids who are old enough to be respectful of other guests. During our stay, we enjoyed the company of two other couples, so we certainly weren’t solo at the farm. A stay at Belle Meade includes a full cooked breakfast, made by talented chef Anna (who lives on-site). Anna inquired about any allergies or preferences, then surprised us each morning with a feast (many of the ingredients directly from the farm or locally sourced). Each morning, breakfast was fantastic.