Resort or Hotel - Pitstops for Kids

Winter backcountry skiing: a stay with Cascade Huts

January 27, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

As soon as I was made aware of Cascade Huts, a system of backcountry cabins in the Mt. Hood wilderness near Government Camp, Oregon, I knew we had to review it! Set miles away from civilization, each of Cascade Huts’ three rustic cabins are situated along backcountry ski and bike trails accessible in winter from any of three area sno parks. Overnight guests snowshoe or cross-country ski in, stay a night (or two or three!), and hike out on any of several available routes.

We’re avid backpackers, but even so, the idea of packing in overnight supplies (even to a shelter) in winter with the kids was intimidating. From the moment I contacted owners James and Don, my worries were set aside. James emailed me many times, answering all my questions in a very professional and knowledgable manner. One of the nicest things about the Cascade Hut system is its flexibility: guests can opt to hike a short or long distance, choose difficult or easier (note I didn’t say easy) terrain, and even navigate their own routes if they’re skilled in GPS navigation.

Since we’re not expert navigators, I asked James to choose the best route for our single overnight to the White River Hut. Because I was trekking in with kids who are new to cross-country skiing, and I’d be using the provided maps and directions instead of a GPS unit, he suggested we travel the historic Barlow Road from the Barlow Pass Sno-Park, on Highway 35 (longer in distance, but easier to navigate). On the provided maps, I noted that this route was marked as ‘intermediate’, as opposed to the ‘expert’ route also available.

Even so, the Barlow Road was no joke: we navigated the six mile wet powder trail (with multiple small creek crossings and over 1000 feet of elevation change) in just over five hours, needing to stop often to make adjustments, carefully cross creeks, and pick each other up! Luckily, we had planned to be on the trail most of the day, so we’d gotten an early start and made sure to have a picnic lunch ready for the route. Note: even in winter…especially in winter…make sure you include enough water for all members of your group, and keep hydrated.)

We arrived at the White River Hut before sundown, and trust me, it was a welcome sight! The kids (with their endless energy) made snow forts outside while we prepped the cabin: detailed instructions await you upon arrival, and include turning on the propane to run the heater, stove, and gas lanterns. The hut is 256 square feet and sleeps up to eight people. Four bunks line two walls, a third wall features a kitchen counter, supplies, and a stove, and the fourth houses the front door and wall-mounted propane heater. Small windows provide adequate light and ventilation (be careful of CO2 poisoning while using propane!), and a table and chairs provide a nice space to eat and play games.

While staying in Cascade Huts, there’s no need to overpack! I admit, we did just that; not being certain what would be provided (better safe than sorry), we packed in more equipment and water than necessary. Though there is no running water (or electricity), the cabin-side creek was running freely in February, and we were able to both pump clean water and boil snow on the stove for drinking water. In the cabin are sleeping bags (just bring liners), lots of board games (we didn’t need to haul in our poker chips and cards!), all kitchen utensils, pots, pans, plates, and mugs (could have saved pack space there!). Also stocked was a good first aid kit, toilet paper, a snow shovel, and plenty of extra gas cylinders for the portable heater. There’s also an outhouse about 40 yards down the trail, but we found it very difficult to access in the winter, due to a nearby stream.

Note: Summer guests are provided with food and water as well, but in the winter, it would freeze!

Once we figured out the propane and various features of the cabin, we were quite comfortable (cozy, even!) all night. It’s important to bring plenty of layers of clothing for each person, as drying out wet gear is tough. We brought two sets of gloves, hats, and under layers for everyone, and were glad we did, when we were caught in a snow/rain storm on our hike back out.

If you go:

1. Make sure you feel comfortable in the backcountry. The Mt. Hood wilderness is very remote, and all guests should be comfortable following topographical maps and/or GPS units. We had several maps as well as a compass, and used all three. You won’t get cell phone service at the cabin, but it still doesn’t hurt to bring one along. My iPhone didn’t get a signal (though my compass app came in handy), but T-Mobile BlackBerry phones or other smart phones might. Cascasde Huts does a great job of preparing guests (and putting them at ease), and every guest signs a waiver, which isn’t only due to liability, but also ensure their location is known on the date they’ve reserved the cabin(s), an important safety step.

2. If cross-country skiing or snowshoeing is new to you, take a trial run. Since we’re expert downhill skiers, we underestimated the difficulty of cross-country skiing. Though I grew up with the sport, it was Nate (12) and Calvin’s (10) first time, and there was a slight learning curve. The terrain to the huts is steep in places, involves obstacles like logs, creeks, and rocks, and shouldn’t be taken lightly.

3. If you need to rent equipment, go to MountainTracks in the nearby town of Government Camp. You can reserve what you need ahead of time online, making for an easy pick-up!

4. If you’re going the distance (six miles or more), opt for skis instead of snowshoes. Maps of all routes will be sent to you from Cascade Huts, but I also recommend picking up a snowshoe and backcountry trail map at MountainTracks.

Check out the Pit Stops for Kids’ Kid Cam video for a better glimpse of our experience:

Date last visited: February 20, 2012

Distance from the interstate: The Barlow Pass Sno Park (trailhead) is on Hwy 35 (just shy of Hwy 26). The area is approximately 1 hour from Portland, OR.

Nightly Rate: In winter, a Cascade Hut cabin can be reserved for $150 per night (for up to eight people). Additional nights (up to three) can be reserved for a discounted price. In summer, mountain bike routes are available, and prices start at $300 per person for a 4-day, 3-night itinerary that includes meals.

Directions: Depending on your route and hut destination, trailheads are located at any of three area sno parks. Our adventure began at the Barlow Pass Sno Park, located one mile from Government Camp on Highway 35. Be sure to get a sno park permit!

Thanks to Cascade Huts for providing us with one night’s lodging at the White River Hut. This compensation came with no expectation of a positive review.

Guide to skiing Breckenridge with teens (by teens)

January 20, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Breckenridge Mountain is a huge ski resort with something for absolutely every type of skier and rider. On our latest trip, we went with our teens and pre-teen, who are all expert skiers and riders. I thought I’d let them tell readers their favorite places on the mountain from their perspective. If you have older kids and teens who like steeps and deeps, this is the post to read!

Note to parents with beginning skiers and riders: Breckenridge’s ski school is among the best we’ve seen, and entire sections of the resort are devoted to green and blue (beginner and intermediate) runs. While this is not the ‘Breck’ we’re covering in this post, learners will be right at home!

Guide to skiing Breckenridge, according to kids who like moguls, trees, and bowls:

The bowls above the tree line are amazing, but only if conditions are right. On windy days or when they’re not open, due to avalanche control, head into the trees! Our favorite tree skiing at Breck is probably the Windows off Peak 9. From the Mercury SuperChair or the E Chair, take the trail to Window 1 and 2, and ski through trees into our favorite place in all of Breck: the ravine bordering a creek! There are winding trails, jumps, and bumps here and it goes on for ages!

There is a lot of out-of-boundary terrain at Breck, and there are gates to access these areas in designated spots. Don’t duck the rope! At the top of Peak 9, there’s a gate where you can hike for about 20 minutes to access some fun stuff, but remember: you have to have a pack, beacon, and shovel with you (and a friend). Our parents’ rule is that we have to take an avalanche safety course before they’ll buy us beacons, so we had to skip this spot.

But: if you still want to hike to great terrain, there are places to do this without leaving the resort boundary. If Imperial chair is not running, we like to hike from Peak 9 at the top of E Chair to the Back 9. The hike is long and hard (about 20 minutes, but it feels longer and you’ll get sweaty) but then you get to ski down your choice of double blacks that haven’t been skied out. After the open bowls, you’ll end up in the same creek run from above.

For lots of steep, mogul runs, head to Peak 10. This was our mom’s favorite peak. Go left at the top of Falcon SuperChair, and try Black Hawk or Dark Rider (double black diamonds).

Peak 7 is an intermediate hill, but at the top is lots of good stuff you can access if Imperial is open. We also liked 6 Chair, which had more moguls and above-tree stuff, on the side of Peak 8.

There are several terrain parks, but be warned: the large and medium ones are HUGE! We like terrain parks but had to stay on the small one…which was like our medium one at home! You can find the small one on Peak 9, called the Highway.

If you like bowls with plenty of spots to find trees to run through, get yourself to the T Bar. Riding the T Bar can be tricky at first, but just watch the people ahead of you, and don’t forget to stay standing…you don’t sit on the T. It’s harder to ride for snowboarders than skiers. When snowboarding, we place the T closer to our hip than our behinds. Riding the T Bar is entertaining, too, because about 1 in 10 people fall off.

Even if you are a very good skier, Breck’s kid zones are a lot of fun. Look for the small terrain trails throughout the family zones and intermediate runs. We found one with a mock mine tunnel to ski through and one with an ore bucket. It’s just lots of fun.

Disclosure: We skied and rode Breck as guests of the resort, in order to report back on where to go for the best runs. All opinions are our own!

Skiing in Utah: Eagle Point ski vacation planning

January 16, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

When planning a ski vacation in Utah, families are spoiled for choice. There are over a dozen major resorts in the Salt Lake City area alone, and many of them are probably on your radar. We love Salt Lake ski resorts, but before you make the decision to head to one of the big destination resorts of Utah, consider a little gem in the southern end of the state.

What is Eagle Point, where is it, and why should we go there?

Ready to get your Eagle Point ski vacation planning on? Eagle Point is a small, boutique ski resort just outside of Beaver, Utah. It’s about three hours’ drive from Las Vegas and Salt Lake City, depending on which way you’re coming on I-15, followed by a winding, steep access road that you’ll want to ascend in the daylight. I’m using the word ‘boutique’ in the sense that Eagle Point is small, personalized, and niche, not that it’s upscale…because it’s not. In fact, it’s delightfully rustic, with a rough-around-the-edges feel that makes me think of my childhood ski trips.

Why bring your family all the way to Eagle Point? The easy answer would be, price. Families can still ski Eagle Point for under $50 for an adult lift ticket (around $30 for kids), and the resort’s ski-in, ski-out condos are incredibly affordable. You could spend a week at Eagle Point for a fraction of the cost of a week at a larger ski resort. But an affordable price is not the full story.

Eagle Point is a resort that still retains the friendly, everyone-knows-each-other, hey-welcome-back atmosphere that’s been lost in many places. When you arrive at the check in desk at Canyonside Lodge, you might just be checked in by one of the resort’s enthusiastic owners, and the friendly waitress at the bar just might be your ski instructor the next day. The relatively small staff all know each other and seem to interact like family, and the small size of the resort means your kids will feel right at home in no time.

Lodging at Eagle Point:

I stayed at a condo in Wooded Ridge, which is one of the condo development options at Eagle Point. There are a few full houses to rent, but otherwise, Eagle Point is all condos, many of which are ski-in, ski-out, or close to it. A free shuttle goes back and forth between condos and both base areas every 20 minutes.

My condo slept at least five; we had a bedroom downstairs and a loft with bunk beds for three. It also had a full kitchen and living room with dining space, and ample storage space for ski gear. I loved the views of aspen trees from the outdoor balconies, and the fact that the kitchen was fully stocked with spices, cooking oil, all the pots and pans needed, a crock pot, a dishwasher with detergent, and a full-sized washer and dryer (also with detergent).

Tip: If you want to be close to Canyonside Lodge and its dining options and hot tubs, book a Canyonside area condo. You’ll be ski-in, ski-out on the Canyonside part of the resort. If anyone in your family is a beginner, however, you’ll want to start at Skyline, which will require a shuttle ride (this is explained in more depth below).

At Eagle Point, you’ll cook in your condo most of the time, so definitely stop in Beaver to buy groceries before coming up the mountain. There’s not much in the way of provisions once you’re at Eagle Point, with the exception of a small mercantile and a few dining venues (more on that in a minute). Condo renters have access to two hot tubs, which are outside behind Canyonside Lodge. There are bathrooms to change there, and a fireplace in the dining area where you can warm up after soaking.

Note: There is very limited cell service and no wifi at Eagle Point. I am told wifi is coming in 2018, but for now, plan to be off-line during your stay. Time to get out the board games!

Skiing at Eagle Point:

Eagle Point, like many Utah ski resorts, has two distinct sections, each with its own base area. The Canyonside Lodge, where you check in to your lodging, is the gateway to the expert terrain, served by Lookout lift, and a few miles up the road, the Skyline Lodge is where you’ll find the beginner and intermediate terrain, as well as the ski rentals and lessons. You’ll use the Skyline chair and Monarch chair on that side.

A ski tunnel connects the two sides, and there is a small amount of intermediate runs off Lookout chair, though not as many as we’d like. Everyone in your family really needs to be an expert skier or rider to have fun together for more than a few runs on Lookout. Gates off Lookout lead to backcountry terrain, in cooperation with the forest service, so that’s an option for expert skiers who are prepared to go outside the resort boundary.

Because the Skyline Lodge is at the TOP of the Skyline area and the Canyonside Lodge is at the bottom of the Canyonside area, getting from Canyonside to Skyline requires a shuttle ride. (You can, however, get from Skyline to the Canyonside Lodge on intermediate terrain, through the tunnel followed by a lift.) This would come in handy if the family divided up in the morning and wanted to meet for lunch.) From the Skyline side, it’s possible to ski down to most condos in the resort.

Note: Eagle Point is conservative about grooming runs. The Skyline area with beginner and intermediate terrain will all be groomed, but during my visit, only a few runs were groomed on Canyonside. This makes for a lot of non-groomed black diamonds.

Dining at Eagle Point:

For ski lunches and even breakfast, if you don’t prepare it in your condo, Skyline Lodge has the Skyline Cafe, which serves your basic ski fare. We found three options on the breakfast menu, plus coffee and drinks, and another handful of options at lunch. It’s counter service only. At Canyonside Lodge, the Outpost Grill has a full bar and dining room, with moderate pricing for burgers, wraps, and pizza, and slightly higher prices for steaks, salmon, and pasta dishes. It’s open both lunch and dinner. The food was good here, and I recommend eating out for dinner at least once during your trip, to save on the hassle of cooking in your condo.

Note: if you come back to Canyonside for dinner, remember that the free ‘mountain taxi’ shuttle only runs until 5 pm. You’ll need to drive your car or walk the short distance.

What you sacrifice in the name of low lift ticket prices at Eagle Point:

Great value in pricing comes at a cost, of course. It’s important that parents know what they WON’T find at Eagle Point, so they can make an educated decision for their family. Eagle Point does not have:

Wifi or much cell service: you can get a cell signal at Skyline Lodge area, but that’s it for most carriers. Bring DVDs to watch in the condo, because you won’t have Netflix. You may not even be able to make a call or send a text, so plan accordingly.
Fine dining: the Outpost Grill is friendly and has decently good food, but it is not gourmet.
Convenient access to hot tubs or any access to a health center: the hot tubs at Canyonside Lodge are stand-alone tubs in the snow out back of the building, with a fun, low-key atmosphere. Close to your condo they are probably not.
Terrain for advanced-intermediate skiers and riders. This is a biggie: Eagle Point has a wonderful array of beginner and easy intermediate terrain at Skyline and incredibly steep, ungroomed expert terrain at Canyonside…but not too much in-between.
Easy access from lodge to lodge. (See explanation above.)

What you WILL get is challenging skiing at a great price, with comfortable, mostly convenient lodging and a down-to-earth vibe.

Getting here:

Eagle Point is located 18 windy, steep miles off I-15 past Beaver. Take the access road slowly, as it can be difficult in ice and snow. The commute on I-15 is easy from both Las Vegas and SLC.

I was a guest of Eagle Point for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Paul Marshall/Ski Utah

Where to ski in Utah: Brighton Resort

January 2, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

If you just read my post reviewing Utah skiing at Solitude Mountain Resort, you know that Brighton Resort is its closest neighbor, nestled right next door in Big Cottonwood Canyon outside of Salt Lake City. Both resorts offer incredible ski terrain for experts and backcountry skiers and snowboarders, both offer a friendly, local vibe, and both have enough skiable terrain for a family to be happy for days.

Brighton Resort differs in that it does not offer on-site lodging, apart from private home rentals. There’s a big base area with a day lodge and a separate lodge with gear rentals and a snow sports shop, and a smaller lodge at an adjacent base area on the other end of the parking area. The resorts are only five minutes’ drive apart, so families can certainly stay in the Solitude village if they’re looking to stay in the canyon, and can even ski between the resorts with a resort hopper pass.

So who is Brighton Resort for?

Take a look at the Brighton mountain map, and you’ll see a sea of black diamonds. Like Solitude, Brighton is big and bold, with incredible pitches, glades, bowls, and backcountry for serious, expert skiers and riders. If you’re looking for challenge and seemingly endless skiable terrain during big snow years like 2017 has proven to be, you’ve found your place. But what if you’re a beginner or intermediate skier? The good news is that there are green circle runs even at the top of the resort, a nice touch for those who get tired of always being at or near the base while they’re learning. You’ll find green runs off the Snake Creek chair, and even off the Milly chair, which also has some of the steepest, deepest runs in the resort. Intermediate skiers and riders will want to focus on the blue-friendly Crest and Majestic chairs; this is also where you’ll find a surprisingly big selection of terrain park features.

If you’re an expert skier or rider:

Trust us, you could do laps all day on the Milly Express chair, and never get tired of the terrain. Your legs will, however, get tired. This chair was our favorite, with double-blacks on both sides of the chair, hike-to terrain along the ridge, and back bowls accessible for backcountry skiers with touring skis. Of course, all of this is dependent on conditions, and it’s essential to look at signage to see what’s open. This is big avalanche country, and the mountains should be respected.

Over on the Great Western chair, some of the steepest pitches take you down wide, mogul-filled black diamonds, and there are more tree glades with powder stashes along the far end of the resort. However, some of my favorite skiing all day at Brighton was found in what I deemed the ‘peaceful powder forest’, located near the top of Snake Creek and Crest. The woods here seemed to go on and on, with lots of powder between the trees and a more relaxing pitch.

If there’s less snow, you’ll definitely find less variety, but even then, the groomers along Crest and Big Western and Milly proved excellent. I loved the rollers and gentle curves to these runs, which got great sun throughout the day. We opted to break for lunch at the base of Milly, where the newest lodge of Brighton was far less crowded and offered excellent burgers and soups.

Planning your day at Brighton Resort:

As noted above, there is no overnight lodging at Brighton, so it will probably be a day trip for you. If you’re driving up Big Cottonwood Canyon (i.e., not staying at Solitude or in a nearby home rental), plan at least 25 minutes on an average day, and up to an hour on a holiday weekend…the traffic goes slowly on really great ski days.

Tip: Big Cottonwood Canyon is 15 miles of pretty curvy, mountainous roadway, and 4×4 drive or chains ARE required fairly regularly. You can opt to take a bus from the base of the canyon, where there’s a convenient park and ride parking lot for your car.

Because Brighton Resort is a day use resort, the parking lot does fill up on busy days. We skied Brighton on a holiday weekend after a big dump of snow, and were glad we arrived just after 9 am…by 11 am, the parking lot was completely full and people were parking on the road.

Lift tickets are under $80 per day per adult, which is relatively reasonable, by ski resort standards. Better yet, you can ‘reload’ your day pass the next day for $10 less. Kids 10 and under are FREE at Brighton, which is a fantastic perk. To save money, consider a Brighton pass if you plan to ski regularly there, because it includes free ski bus access, or, if you have a pass elsewhere, see if it’s a M.A.X. Pass resort and do a M.A.X. Pass add-on for the best value. You can get a Solitude-Brighton ticket for under $100, and ski between the two resorts, but I bet you’ll have enough to keep you busy right at Brighton.

Pin it for later!

Disclosure: I visited Brighton as a guest of the resort for the purpose of reviewing M.A.X. Pass resorts. All opinions are my own.

Give your Kids Adventure on a Riviera Maya Vacation

December 20, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

There are amazing places to go to for a family beach vacation, but few can match the Riviera Maya. Situated on the coast of Mexico, Riviera Maya offers you and other adults a chance to relax and unwind, and children an opportunity to explore, learn, play, and simply be kids.

Riviera Maya offers a range of excellent family accommodation options, especially in Tulum. The Tulum all-inclusive options, in particular, are great, especially because they offer so many options for having fun with kids.

The resorts organize a lot of tours and activities, so you can enjoy the area while you discover the Riviera Maya culture, the marvelous natural paradise of Tulum or have fun practicing sports! There are so many options for what to do in Tulum that you will never get bored!

Now that you’ve decided that you are going to Tulum in the Riviera Maya, what exactly is there to do?

Water Sports

Thanks to its coastal location, many of the better resorts have their own exclusive pools and beach. This gives you the perfect opportunity to participate in snorkeling, or stand up paddling or kayaking.

Exploring Mayan Ruins

Tulum is home to some of the most breathtaking Mayan ruins on the planet. This is a great way for children to learn about the Mayan civilization and be awestruck at what they see. Kids learn when they are having fun. Here are two you and your family should not miss:

Chichén Itzá– Chichén Itzá is one of the seven wonders of the world and was once a vibrant Mayan city. In the center, a huge pyramid dominates the region, and at certain times of the year, the sun creates an illusion that snakes are running up and down the steps.
Cobá– Forty-five minutes into the jungle and you will discover the remains of Cobá, a once-thriving Mayan city. The pyramid in the center is the main attraction with excavated roads linking the structure to other parts of the city. The visitor center helps to add context and is an excellent way for kids and adults to learn about the Mayans.

A Day or Days at the Beach

With the better resorts having their own exclusive beach, it makes sense to have a day or three relaxing and having fun. Kids love beaches as they can dig in the sand, go for a swim, and generally let off steam. You can have quality time with your kids and enjoy the sunshine soaking up rays and reconnecting with the world.

If you want to venture out of your resort, you’ll find Tulum beaches to suit all tastes. Given how great many resort beaches are, you’ll probably find you’ll make use to the one you can walk too.

A Grand Night Out

Resorts offer plenty of options for what to do if you want have fun, especially in the desirable location of the Riviera Maya. You can enjoy great food, karaoke, theme nights, and all kinds of entertainment.

If you are more sporty, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to participate in tennis, soccer, basketball, or enjoy a relaxing spa or workout in the gym.

The Riviera Maya offers you and your family the perfect vacation and staying in one of the great resorts makes it even better.

Vail luxury ski hotel: Sonnenalp hotel review

December 16, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

I have been lucky enough to stay in many luxury ski hotel properties, from Whistler to Tahoe to points east. My stay at The Sonnenalp, a Leading Hotels of the World property in Vail, Colorado, met the expectations that properties like the Fairmont or the Ritz Carlton had set for me, but also exceeded those expectations in subtle ways.

What do I mean by this? The Sonnenalp Hotel, which is a true family-owned property, in the same family for four generations, has a very understated and timeless style of luxury and service. From the moment you drive into the porte-cochère and your ski gear is whisked effortlessly away by the ski concierge team to the simple yet thoughtful texts sent by the front desk staff, inquiring how your stay is going and whether there is anything they can do for you, at The Sonnenalp, it’s all about quietly and efficiently serving, while providing a timeless and lovely place to call home in the heart of Vail.

While beautiful, the Sonnenalp exhibits a cozy Bavarian elegance, not a flashy or sleek luxury vibe. Inside, the long halls with meandering staircases with wooden handrails call to mind a European ski chalet; in fact, in some parts of the hotel, I truly would mistake my location for the Alps. All the guest spaces of the hotel, from the small front lobby to the expansive King’s Club lounge (arguably the heart of the hotel) exhibit an understated but sophisticated elegance. You’d never make the mistake that you were in a budget hotel, by any means, but you are also spared any sort of stuffy or snooty ambiance.

Sonnenalp rooms:

Ever stayed at a five-star, very expensive property and looked around your hotel room and noted you were actually lacking a lot of useful items, like a fridge, table, or microwave? The Sonnenalp has 112 suites to its 15 rooms, with a focus on comfort. I stayed in one of their two-level mountain suites, which was laid out with a living room and wet bar space downstairs (with fireplace) and two bedrooms upstairs, with over 1300 square feet total space. Be sure to ask for a few room fans upon check-in, as we found the upstairs to get stuffy. I appreciated having a Nespresso machine, a minibar, a second fridge for storing our own things, a microwave, and two and a half bathrooms.

We enjoyed turndown service, lovely robes for use in the room and at the spa area, and eco-friendly bath amenities. The only thing I found missing: access to a washer and dryer, or even just a dryer, in the suites. When skiing with a family, a dryer is huge.

Sonnenalp European spa:

At The Sonnenalp, the European spa concept means that in addition to their luxurious spa, most of the spa’s 10,000 square feet is accessible for all guests, including children. What this looks like: when you enter the spa area, you are not stopped at a sign-in desk (though they have one). Instead, you’re invited into the large space that houses a 360 degree fireplace with sunken seating, a full bar (with oxygen bar), and the indoor pool and hot tub. Off of this room are the men’s and women’s locker rooms, sauna, steam rooms, and fitness center…open to everyone (though children under 16 are not allowed in the back locker rooms or fitness center of the spa). Out glass doors by the pool, the outdoor section of the pool and two additional outdoor hot tubs await.

While kids need to be respectfully quiet in this greater spa area, they are welcome, and what results is a very cozy, warm space for families to gather apres-ski or anytime. For adults, complementary yoga classes are held here almost daily, as well as personal training services. While the fitness center is not large, it has the cardio and weight training equipment needed.

While I love that most of the spa can be appreciated by everyone, I do recommend booking at least one spa treatment during your stay. My aromatherapy massage was one of the best I’ve ever had, made even more relaxing in the knowledge that the rest of my group could be having fun in the pools and hot tubs. A poolside/spa-side menu is available (though outdoor pool deck service is seasonal).

Sonnenalp dining:

The Sonnenalp has multiple restaurants onsite, and of course, you’re in the heart of the Vail village, so many additional restaurants are within walking distance. As noted above, the cozy King’s Club, with bar, a ‘living room’ type space, and even a library, is the place to start your evening with a drink during their happy hour. It’s also the place to return later in the evening for live music. A must do is Swiss Chalet, Sonnenalp’s nod to Alpine cuisine, with fondue and raclette, and for the most casual dining option, head to Bully Ranch, the hotel’s Western-themed restaurant (where you’ll instantly feel like you’re in Wyoming, not Germany).

While Sonnenalp may be best known for Swiss Chalet’s fondue dinner, their breakfast buffet, held daily at Ludwig’s, is in danger of outshining it all. There’s more than any one person could possibly eat at this gourmet buffet of hot dishes, granolas, fresh fruits, berries, cheese spreads, bagels and lox, smoked salmon, artisan breads, and more. The buffet is $35 per person (or $23 for the continental version), but don’t gasp just yet: with most reservations, it can be included in the cost of the stay as an add-on (well worth it). If you don’t add the buffet on and don’t want to pay that price, there is also an a la carte menu, as well as room service. By no means is Sonnenalp dining inexpensive, but it is part of the overall experience of the hotel.

Sonnenalp activities:

The hotel has a kids’ club, which is complementary with activities planned for kids daily, with drop-in options. At the time of my visit, the club was open from 4 pm to 6 pm, which was great: parents can enjoy happy hour while the kids are busy. This service is for kids three and up who are potty trained, but even if you have a younger one, stop by for a complementary box of sanitized toys to take back to your room. For older kids, there’s a game room adjacent. Get always updated kids’ club information.

The planned activities for adults, beyond the spa and fitness offerings, such as the snowshoeing treks aforementioned, were offered six days a week during my visit. Of course, a main activity for parents is simply relaxing. I recommend sitting in the library with one of their famous mudslides.

If visiting in winter, most families plan to ski. Here’s how the ski concierge services work at Sonnenalp:

Because the hotel is about three blocks from Gondola One (where you can upload for Vail skiing), Sonnenalp guests have access to nearby Gorsuch Ski Cafe. The ski concierge team will transport your gear there upon your arrival to the hotel. Guests walk the few blocks in comfortable winter boots, instead of ski boots, and grab their gear from the concierge there. The space has ample room for getting on gear and storing skis and boards. You can also apply sunscreen here and there’s seating for 40-50.

For summer season guests, Sonnenalp has their own private golf course, with a much large fitness center and pool complex, as well as on-site dining, Harvest. The fitness center and Harvest are actually open year-round, and shuttles can be arranged from the hotel. There is a daily fee for golf, but I was assured hotel guests have use of the fitness area complementarily.

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Sonnenalp.

Disclosure: I stayed at Sonnenalp as a guest of the hotel, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.

Traveling the Canadian Rockies on VIA Rail

October 24, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

Overnight passenger train travel can be more expensive and slower than air travel today. So why should you go? And where?

Train across Canada: after spending two nights traveling the Canadian Rockies on VIA Rail‘s Canadian, the ‘why’ is easy to answer: in an age when traveling to a destination has become only about getting from Point A to Point B in a rushed, often stressful manner, a few days (or more) aboard a passenger train is a vacation in itself. The pace is relaxed, the scenery can be fantastic, and the service is friendly. After my experience aboard The Canadian, I would venture to say passenger train travel is in fact the sole remaining mode of idyllic transportation from the golden age, outlasting air and cruise travel.

Incorporating a VIA Rail journey into a Canadian vacation itinerary will greatly enrich your trip. There are many routes to choose between, the longest being the four day journey from Vancouver to Toronto on the Canadian. We opted for a fraction of this trip, embarking in Vancouver and departing in Jasper, Alberta (then returning on the same route after days of sightseeing in the Canadian Rockies). The 20-hour one-way trip was spent taking in the scenery from one of several observation cars with 360 degree views, dining in the relaxed yet elegant dining cars, getting to know fellow passengers, and sleeping, reading, working, or napping. We found that the ‘rail level’ views and relaxed pace afforded a more intimate experience with the British Columbia and Alberta wilderness.

Who to take with you:

If you’re bringing kids, I wouldn’t recommend this trip for kids under age six (though as always, parents know their own children best). During the rail trip, passengers are definitely confined to a series of train cars, and young kids would certainly get restless. Is there enough for older kids to do? Here’s what we found: a variety of board games in the ‘activity cars’, on-going snacks and juices in the lounges, and interesting sights out the window, whether it be scenery whizzing by or temporary stops at stations or through towns. In other words: not a lot of on-board entertainment.

If you travel with kids, we recommend downloading a few movies onto a computer, iPod, or iPad, and bringing plenty of reading material, activity books (such as coloring books) and card games. Plan on several hours between each meal that you’ll need to fill. Expect a primarily-adults-only passenger list: during our October trip, we saw only two children aboard the Canadian. This is not to discourage families from bringing kids: rather, know you’ll need to bring diversions and entertainment as needed. WiFi was not available aboard our train, though 3G and 4G service could be found via roaming off and on.

Which fare to book:

Determining which fare is right for you can be tricky. On the Canadian, there are two basic options: sleeper or economy. In economy, you’ll get a seat that reclines, access to an observation car with upper deck, access to a lounge with tables and chairs, and the option to buy food at the Starlight Cafe, serving meals and snacks to go. Passengers sleep in their seats, and share bathroom facilities. Economy is obviously the more affordable option, but quite frankly, didn’t look too appealing (despite the fact that VIA Rail seats are considerably more comfortable than airline seats).

Sleeper fare offers three bed configurations (each a different price) in the Sleeper Plus category. Passengers can opt between a one-passenger or two-passenger private cabin, or a semi-private upper or lower berth (closed with curtains). We experienced Sleeper Plus in a two-passenger cabin. We had a tiny-yet-functional cabin space with two chairs and a large window, a private bathroom with toilet, and a sink. Also included: a small amount of storage space and two outlets (yay!). In the evenings, a train steward comes by to lower your beds, which in the two-passenger cabin is bunk-bed style: upper and lower single beds. Beds are fully made-up each evening, and very comfortable (provided you’re not quite tall).

The one-passenger private cabin features one bench-like seat that flattens to accommodate a bed, plus a sink and toilet (the latter of which features a cushioned cover to become an ottoman during the day, but is covered up by the bed at night…a definite downside). Both the two-passenger and one-passenger cabins share one shower per car.

The last sleeper option is to book an upper or lower berth. These compartments feature bench seats (two facing each other) during the day, which fold out to become a lower berth bed at night. The upper berth bed folds out from the wall by the ceiling. These berths are made up at night and feature thick curtains for privacy. They share a public toilet and shower (one per car).

All Sleeper Plus fares include meals in the dining car (breakfast, lunch, and dinner, depending on when you’re onboard), snacks in the lounge, access to several observation cars and lounges, and complimentary champagne and appetizers upon embarkation.

Here’s a photo depicting 1. a two-passenger cabin made up for bed, 2. a lower berth made up for day, 3. coach seats:

Which to book will depend on your comfort level (how much privacy do you need?) and your meal needs. We absolutely recommend the all-inclusive dining: if you opt out of this, you can buy meals a la carte in the cafe, but this option would get old (and expensive) if traveling more than one night. We enjoyed the privacy of a cabin, but could have been comfortable in an upper and lower berth as well. Keep in mind that only up to two passengers fit in a cabin: families of four or more will need to book two (or more) cabins or opt for two or more upper/lower berths in a row. (The latter option will allow for more freedom of movement between beds as needed, but you’ll only have access to a shared bathroom.

View our VIA Rail experience video:

Tips:

1. Carry-on sized bags only are allowed onboard. Full-sized bags will need to be checked, so plan accordingly. Cabins have space for up to two carry-on bags, but if you opt for a berth, you’d be better off with only a large tote or backpack.

2. Bring a water bottle to refill. While coffee, tea, and juice is on offer at all times, I found the need to also keep a water bottle filled to prevent dehydration. If you like to sip coffee or tea all day, bring a small thermos or insulated mug.

3. Bring a hair dryer if you’ll need one: in cabins, towels, shampoo, and soap are provided, but not hair dryers.

4. Be prepared for plenty of motion and some train noise at night. We slept surprisingly well onboard, but you’ll definitely feel the movement.

Date last visited:

October 2013

Fare cost:

Calculate Via Rail fares here. Definitely plan early and check for fare discounts, offered several times per year. What we found: VIA Rail is not more economical than flying, so you need to consider the fare cost a part of your vacation experience, not part of your transportation costs.

Directions:

If embarking in Vancouver on the Canadian, you’ll depart from Pacific Station. Located next to Science World, it’s easy to get here from SkyRail from either the airport or the Waterfront station in downtown Vancouver.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced The Canadian as guests of the VIA Rail, for the purpose of review. All opinions are our own, and we hope our experience inspires and equips other traveling families to make great decisions about rail travel.

Unique Oregon golf resort: Silvies Valley Ranch

October 17, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

Located on the Eastern Oregon frontier, Silvies Valley Ranch offers a vacation experience unique to anything I’ve done before. Guests enter the 220 square miles of this working cattle and goat ranch and make their way to the Retreat, Links and Spa…a tucked-away resort in the pines with unparalleled ranch views. Your first stop is at the Gate House, where you’re met by friendly resort staff, charcuterie and drinks, and the chance to surrender your car for the duration; from this moment forward, you’ll be exploring the ranch via your personally-assigned golf cart.

From the comfort of luxury cabin or lodge room accommodations, you can ponder your many options of activities while on-site. Silvies is not a dude ranch, with all-inclusive activities on the ranch, though it feels as isolated as one. And it’s not strictly a golf resort, because guests can explore the ranch grounds, too. It’s an interesting hybrid of both.

Perfect book-reading spot right out front of the cabins.

Dinners are fairly formal affairs with a nightly eight-course pre-set menu prepared by talented chef Damon Jones, eaten at the communal Ranch Table. Families, I’m told, have the option to eat a la carte during the summer season, should they not wish to spend so long at the meal. Definitely enjoy the Ranch Table experience at least once or twice during a stay, however, as this is where Silvies’ local, organic beef and chevon (goat) is featured best.

Before each nightly meal, we loved lingering at the impressively-stocked ranch house bar for a pre-dinner cocktail. The bartending and wait staff were all excellent, and I would challenge any guest to come up with any drink they can’t make.

Note: breakfast and lunch are also offered at the ranch house, as well as lunch at the Hideout, the golf clubhouse. There isn’t any other nearby dining option, due to the remoteness of Silvies, so plan accordingly. Breakfast could easily be made in the room or cabin.

Activities at Silvies:

The main attraction at the Retreat at Silvies is golf. We’re not avid golfers, but we could see at a glance that Silvies’ four courses were different than most. They’re located on a remote and rugged stretch of high desert; you’ll be instantly reminded of Scottish courses, if you’ve been. The courses range from 18 hole to a shorter Par 3 course over 600 acres, and thanks to the remoteness of Silvies’ location, crowds aren’t an issue. Families and beginners are welcome. Every guest we spoke to raved about their golf experience. Best of all, you are offered a ‘goat caddy’ when you golf here: yes, trained goats really do carry your clubs!

During our three-day stay, we wanted to learn a lot about the ranch side of Silvies, so we signed up for a ranch eco-tour. We were picked up in a Razor and escorted around the ranch’s 120,000 acres, learning about the scope of the cattle and goat business, the ranch’s multi-generational history, and the current owners’ plans for the future (the Campbell family has owned it for the last six years). Several historic homesteads are still in residence on the property, so we saw those, as well as cows getting ready to calve, antelope running, deer grazing, and even elk. We learned about the conservation that’s important at Silvies, such as the restoration of the land’s riparian landscape; slowly, the beavers that had been plentiful before the fur trapping industry of the 1800s are returning.

We also went shooting at the ranch’s firing range and ‘goat herding’ with a ranch hand. For the latter, we went out to find one of the three 1000-head goat herds on the property and walked among them for a while, talking to the Peruvian goat herder hired by Silvies and meeting the guard and herding dogs in residence.

Also offered: horseback riding, mountain biking, wagon riding, hiking and fishing. Hiking and biking trails are still limited, with plans to build out this part of the ranch.

Rocking Heart Spa at Silvies:

For us, our spa day was our favorite at Silvies. The spa is located directly across from the cabins and main lodge, and houses a lap pool, climbing wall, and exercise room in addition to spa services. Silvies is still in the process of fine-tuning this space, so hours are not always consistent, we found.

Spa services range from multiple massage offerings to facials and mani-pedis, plus a hair salon. We loved the facials we received, which were a relaxing 120 minutes of pampering. We enjoyed the relaxation room and spa and sauna in each locker room, too. Plan to spend a whole afternoon at the Rocking Heart Spa!

Lodging at Silvies:

We were situated in a two-bedroom luxury cabin, which included a kitchenette with a very well-stocked mini-bar, large ice machine, microwave, Keurig, and plates and cups galore. You also get an entire cupboard of snacks (for purchase) and a stocked wine fridge (with a wine list and prices). We loved the Western decor throughout, the cozy living room space with fireplace and a huge TV, and the spacious bathrooms (one off each bedroom). Best of all, a hot tub outside! Our only wish: we would have loved a porch or patio, though the views out the wide living room windows were amazing.

There are also one-bedroom cabins and cabin rooms, as well as ranch house rooms (which are actually located across the drive from the ranch house. Find rates here.

Getting to Silvies:

This Oregon golf resort really is remote. It’s about 45 minutes from Burns, Oregon, and it’s best to follow the directions on the ranch website; GPS will lead you astray. You’re about 2.5 hours from Bend or Boise, and about 5.5 hours from Medford/Ashland.

Disclosure: we stayed at Silvies as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Boston with kids: Royal Sonesta Boston review

September 19, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

See and explore Boston from a new perspective, and stay on the Cambridge side! We recently checked out the Royal Sonesta Boston, which offers fantastic Charles River and Boston downtown views while being just a quick car, Uber or T ride from everything you want to do with kids in Boston, from Duck Boats to the Museum of Science to the Boston Children’s Museum!

Royal Sonesta Boston review:

What makes the Royal Sonesta Boston so great for families? First up, it’s located right on the Charles River, and you can step outside and be immediately on a pedestrian path to glimpse the boats and city views. You’re near the red line of the T, too, and there’s plenty of local dining.

Secondly, the pool! The Royal Sonesta has one of the best indoor atrium pools in the city, with views and a bright interior. I love that it’s covered because even in summer, Boston can be temperamental weather-wise. I do wish they also had a hot tub by the pool, but they do have a well-stocked fitness room.

Thirdly, there are plenty of on-site dining choices for when you’ve had a long day in Boston and are ready to stay in. There’s a grab-and-go style cafe and coffee shop serving Starbucks, and in-room dining. There are two full-service restaurants as well. The patio at Royal Sonesta’s Art Bar is our pick…it’s the perfect place to end the day. Their indoor seating has a sleek, modern vibe and is fun, too. At the Art Bar, you have to try the crab cakes and the scallops, and they make wonderful cocktails for the grown-ups.

Lastly, room rates at the Royal Sonesta start at under $200 per night. You can’t do much better even at an airport hotel! You’re getting $400-$600/night views for a family-friendly price in Cambridge.

Rooms:

We stayed in a 450-square-foot suite, which had a large living space, table and chairs, and divided bedroom area with amazing city views, but downgrading to a regular room is still roomy at as much as 250 square feet, and you get to keep the views (and pick from two queens or one king). WiFi was fast and free and easy to log into, and the bathroom amenities were high end. All in all, I felt I was getting a great value for the price (and even coming out ahead) at the Royal Sonesta.

You’re in walking distance of the T, you can easily access Harvard Square, and the river views are amazing. Kids will love watching the Duck Boats go by on the hour! Don’t forget about that indoor pool!

Check out more things to do in Boston!

Lodging near Joshua Tree National Park

August 5, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

The first time we visited Joshua Tree National Park, we stayed in Indian Cove campground and spent almost all our time within the park boundaries. We never regret spending time in parks; however, several unique lodging opportunities exist in nearby 29 Palms and by the unincorporated town of Joshua Tree. Looking for lodging near Joshua Tree? Here’s where to stay hear Joshua Tree National Park if you don’t plan to camp.

29 Palms Inn:

On a first drive through the desert town of 29 Palms, it may not be evident that there’s much to stop for. Not so. This gateway to Joshua Tree National Park has a lively, artistic community with fun dining options and an amazing resort at 29 Palms Inn.

Located on 70 acres, 29 Palms Inn is centered around the Oasis of Mara (acquired by the Southern Pacific Railroad during the railroad boom). Guests can still walk right up to the oasis (on site) and explore it. The 29 Palms Inn was established in the 1920s, and is now owned by the Grunt family, who run it locally along with the Roughly Manor. Everything about the Inn celebrates the desert landscape, with much of the resort property outdoors. The pool, office, and restaurant comprise the heart of the inn, with sandy walking paths leading around cacti and brush to multiple stand-alone adobe and wooden cabins, rooms, and studios. The dining area is indoor-outdoor, and there’s an outdoor living room space just beside the pool for relaxing in the shade.

Amenities:

We love that sleeping spaces are roomy (perfect for families!) and that breakfast is included. Every morning, guests will find a healthy, homemade breakfast served buffet style. During our visit, we found steel cut oatmeal with toppings, breads and coffee cake, fresh fruit, juice, and coffee.

Lunch and dinner are served (at extra cost) in the same poolside building, featuring produce from the inn’s very own organic garden, Faultline Farm. Picnic lunches are also available to go for $10 each, so you can leave to enjoy the park without stopping for groceries.

Yoga and nature walks are offered on the weekends, and the heated pool is available to guests every day. There are plenty of places for kids to explore and play outdoors, which I appreciate. Hammocks are hung by the garden, and the Creative Center artist studio is located within easy walking distance on site. Here, families can paint a canvas or pottery with artist (and Inn family member) Heidi Grunt.

Lodging options:

Lodging options range from a stand-alone adobe cottage with a complete kitchen, living space, and outdoor patio perfect for a whole family, to single rooms ideal for adults traveling solo. Rates are in the $150 range. Check for latest prices.

Roughley Manor:

Also owned by the Grunt family, Campbell House is very different than 29 Palms Inn, but has the same relaxed vibe and love for the outdoors and nature in common. Founded in 1925 as the Campbell’s Ranch (the Campbells have a history with the Oasis of Mara as well), Roughley Manor was turned into a bed and breakfast in 1994. The manor and grounds are designed in a serene English manor style, with gardens, shade trees, and stonework. While in stark contract to the desert landscape, Roughly Manor somehow just works, creating an oasis of its own for families exploring Joshua Tree.

Amenities:

The manor serves a full breakfast included in the room rate. There’s also an outdoor pool, and acres of landscaped flower gardens, fruit trees, and courtyards to relax in. Kids can play Bocce Ball in front of the manor, as well as chess.

Lodging options:

Most rooms are stand-alone cabins and cottages that dot the property, complete with kitchenettes (microwaves, mini-fridges, and sinks) and bathrooms with tubs. Most have a small porch. Some rooms also are offered inside the manor house, for a total of 12 options. Like the Inn, rates are around $150.

Bonus lodging option:

Families who are adventurous but also ready for a special, spiritual Joshua Tree lodging experience may want to consider the eco-friendly, sustainable earth bag built domes at Bonita Domes. Rented through AirBnb, two sleeping pods in the Bonita Domes ‘village’ anchor an outdoor kitchen, kiva pit, and shower pod. An additional unit is also for rent in the main home.

Bonita Domes are owned and operated by contemporary medicine woman and Joshua Tree resident Lisa Starr. Because Bonita Domes is also Lisa’s home, she rightfully asks for respect and reverence in this special space. We recommend bringing children who are ready for the experience of sleeping in a pod, being tuned with the outdoors, and can appreciate this special place.

Lisa also offers shamanic medicine sessions at the kiva pit, which I was lucky to experience. The session takes about an hour (sometimes more) and involves a rhythmic drum cadence and meditation. No experience is needed…just an open mind to enjoy the experience. Sessions are $150 each, and not required during the stay (but recommended for families with older kids).

Pit for later!

As I disclose whenever applicable, I experienced these lodging options and the drum medicine session as a guest, for the purpose of review. All opinions are my own.