Maine with kids: Baxter State Park backcountry itinerary for families

Baxter State Park is Maine’s largest expanse of untamed public wilderness. With almost 210,000 acres to explore, where do you start? Our Baxter State Park backcountry itinerary for families includes days in the frontcountry enjoying Baxter’s car camping options, several days in Baxter’s backcountry, then a rest day to play and explore before departure.

Baxter’s scope and size is on a national park scale, but unlike national parks, almost every lake, pond, waterfall and stream in the park is accessible only by trail. In very few places in Baxter can you drive up to see anything, and even then, you must drive miles upon miles on dirt roads. In other words, you earn you sightseeing! Baxter limits the number of visitors to the park daily, which means you won’t be rubbing elbows with crowds of tourists. It also means you have to be organized about your trip and get the required permits you need early. Here’s how!

The best way to experience Baxter State Park is by camping, though day permits are available as well (if you opt for that, stay in nearby Millinocket). Here’s our suggested itinerary, after doing most things right and a few things wrong during our five days in Baxter.

Day 1: Frontcountry camp at Roaring Brook Campground

In case you’re not sure, when I say ‘frontcountry camp’, I mean ‘car camp’, or camping via car access. Roaring Brook Campground is about eight miles into the park after you check in at the ranger station at the Togue Pond entrance, past Millinocket via dirt road. The campground, like all in Baxter, is remote and basic, with nicely-kept pit toilets, a place to purchase firewood (bring cash), and a staffed ranger station, but no other amenities, such as showers or potable water.

You can pick between tent sites and lean-to sites, and I recommend the latter, because they’re on the brook. You get a basic wooden shelter with a platform for each site, plus a picnic table and fire pit. We loved the shelters (lean-tos) throughout Baxter, as they provided just enough protection from the afternoon rainstorms and gave us a place to roll out our sleeping bags off the dirt. They’re not enclosed, however, and you won’t be safe from mosquitos there, so you can opt to set up a tent inside the shelter (but not outside of it). Roaring Brook is cold and clear, and we loved swimming in it.

 

Tip: You MUST enter Baxter State Park before 8:30 pm, so time your arrival accordingly. Also, the entirety of Baxter is ‘carry out’ for all your trash, so bring trash bags and plan on storing your trash in your car at night. You must also stow away all your food at night.

Day 2: Hike Mount Katahdin

If summiting Mount Katahdin is on your to-do list in the park, do it early in your trip, while you’re still fresh. It’s 5.5 miles (pretty much straight up) from the Roaring Brook Campground, and it took our family (seasoned hikers) 12 hours to complete. The trail is extremely strenuous, and the final mile of the summit hike is along a ‘knife edge’ with some scary-looking drops. If you go: bring tons of water, and a means to filter more on the trail (you’ll need it). Also bring headlamps in case you’re caught hiking after dark. We took the following route: Roaring Brook to the Helon Taylor Trail, to the Knife Edge, to the Saddle Trail, to the Chimney Pond to Roaring Brook trail. It was 11 miles that took us forever to complete.

Note: Kids under age six are NOT ALLOWED above the treeline at Katahdin, though on our visit, we did not see a ranger monitoring this. I’m told there usually are. We took a seven-year-old, my niece, who rocked it, but she’s unusual in her awesomeness.

If you don’t want to tackel Katahdin, I recommend the Chimney Pond trail from Roaring Brook (3.3 fairly strenuous miles) to enjoy a picnic lunch at Chimney Pond, which has fantastic views of Katahdin right at the base of the mountain.

Day 3: Recover from Katahdin

This is where we made a mistake in our itinerary. We didn’t give ourselves a rest day after summiting Katahdin. Stay one more night in Roaring Brook and plan on sticking around camp. Enjoy the swimming and maybe go .2 mile to Sandy Pond, to try to spot the moose who like to hang out there at twilight. No nothing more!

Day 4: Head into the backcountry

If you’re prepared for backpacking in Baxter, depart Roaring Brook today, hitting the Russell/Sandy Stream trail. The destination: either Russell Pond Campground with lean-tos (7.2 miles away), or, if you don’t want to go quite so far, reserve at Wassataquoik Stream, which offers several more lean-tos with great swimming (5 miles away). If you’re ambitious, you could aim for Wassataquoik Lake, 9 miles distant, which doesn’t have a campground but does have several more lean-tos. Russell Lake has a staffed ranger office and lean-tos, a bear line, and pit toilets, and we settled in at two of them, adding a tent site for our group of 10.

Note: Baxter State Park is VERY strict about group size and where you can camp. This is a good thing, as it eliminates big groups in campsites they don’t fit into. If you reserve a lean-to made for four, you can ONLY have four people sleep there. Ditto for six-person lean-tos and tent sites.

At Russell Pond, you can use the provided canoes at the dock for a small fee (I believe it was $1/hour, on the honor system) and you can swim, though we don’t recommend it (there are many leeches here). It is, however, a good place to spot moose. The Wassataquoik Stream lean-tos are better for swimming, and theWassataquoik Lake lean-tos offer a bigger lake (better for swimming) and more canoes.

Alternatively, you could backcountry camp at Chimney Pond instead of Russell Pond (see description above). It’s a shorter distance, though a rockier trail.

Day 5: Day hike from Russell Pond

We enjoyed hanging around camp and day hiking from Russell Pond to Wassataquoik Lake (2 miles) on this day. We played board games and cards in our lean-tos, picked blueberries in the wild patches nearby, and tried to spot moose.

Day 6: Hike back to the frontcountry

Return to Roaring Brook today, and spend the late afternoon cooling off in the brook. Pack up and depart Baxter the next morning, checking out additional parts of Baxter if time allows. We recommend Blueberry Ridges or Ledge Falls if so, and if not, hit a last swim spot just outside the park boundary at Togue Pond. You can grab a nice sandwich and some souvenirs from the North Woods Trading Post just outside the park toward Millinocket, and if you want a bigger meal, we recommend the friendly and affordable Sawmill Bar and Grill.

How to reserve your campsites:

Baxter State Park is popular, and as mentioned, entry is limited. To ensure you get your campsite, reserve far in advance. Baxter uses four month rolling reservations, so you’ll want to reserve exactly four months before you desired time. You can reserve online or by phone.

More tips:

  • If you’re day hiking Katahdin (staying in Millinocket), you’ll want to reserve your parking space (these are limited as well!). Here’s how. Parking reservations are only held for you until 7 am, then are given away on a first-come, first-served basis. Yes, you really need to start that early. If you’re camping in the park, you don’t need a parking reservation.
  • You’ll need to treat ALL your water in the park. Bring a good filter. We like the Sawyer Squeeze to bring on day hikes and the Platypus GravityWorks for in camp.
  • You cannot bring firewood into the park. You must purchase it in camp.
  • No pets are allowed, even in car camping campgrounds. Plan accordingly.
  • Check in at every ranger station as you hike. Bring a phone and treat it as an emergency device (you won’t get service in the park anyway).
  • Pack out all your trash…make it easier on yourself by reducing packaging on your food before you arrive. Store all food and trash in your car at night in the frontcountry, and on bear lines in the backcountry (use your sleeping bag stuff sacks to store food and hang it from the line provided).
  • Backcountry campgrounds DO include pit toilets with toilet paper. They were all in good condition during our visit.
  • Enjoy the Maine wilderness!

 

Family camping hack: Dispersed camping tips

Have you ever been on a road trip, paid around $100 a night to stay at a basic motel, and thought to yourself that you’d rather pay less and see more nature along the way? Or have you ever camped in a campground amid loud neighbors and wished you could find a place to pitch your tent away from the masses? If either question has crossed your family’s minds while traveling, dispersed camping might be a good option for you. If dispersed camping sounds intimidating, we have dispersed camping tips ready for you.

What is dispersed camping?

Dispersed camping simply means camping anywhere in the National Forest outside of a designated campground. No services will be available. such as trash removal, and little or no facilities will be at your disposal, such as tables and fire pits, or bathrooms or showers. However, dispersed camping is free, and you can usually count on finding a campsite where you can be alone in the wilderness, via car instead of hike-in.

You’ll be responsible for packing out everything you pack in (follow Leave No Trace principles), and you’ll need to remember to bring basics you might not think about when camping in campgrounds, such as potable water, toilet paper (and a shovel), and portable chargers for phones, lanterns and the like. Store all your food items in your car or in a bear canister at night, as food storage lockers will not be present. Think of dispersed camping as backpacking, but with your car: you need to be completely self-contained.

So how do you find dispersed camping locations?

This is the tricky part. You can use any road map to locate National Forest Service land in the vicinity in which you want to camp, but the best way to find out what areas are open to dispersed camping is to contact the nearest Forest Service office to the area you wish to visit. Many people drive out on forest service roads into the woods and find a clearing or a spot near a stream or with a view of the mountains. Use maps to find water sources near your desired camp area (but remember it will not be potable).

Only drive on existing roads to prevent resource damage. Dispersed camping is allowed in a one-mile perimeter away from campgrounds and 100 feet from any stream. To prevent resource damage please keep your campsite within 150 feet from a roadway.

Sometimes, though, it’s hard to identify exactly what is forest service land and what is private land. When we’re unsure, we’ve found its sometimes worth spending a few dollars to use Hipcamp.

Hipcamp is a website that mimics AirBnb, but for campsites. Private owners (hosts) post their camping options, which families can search for by location and date. Essentially, Hipcamp sites are dispersed camping on private land with permission. We have paid about $20 per Hipcamp site, paid via the website much as you’d do for AirBnb. The host then contacts you with exact directions to the site. Like when using AirBnb, it’s important to read reviews before booking, to make sure the host will be a good communicator and offer solid directions. And just like when disperse camping on forest service land, it’s crucial to pack everything out and leave the site as nice as when you found it (or better).

Hipcamp is popular with young adults looking to camp in groups (think festival-goers) but is a great option for families as well. Look for options with plenty of space in which to find a private area to camp. On a recent road trip through Nevada, we found a completely isolated Hipcamp location, and enjoyed a night to ourselves amid antelope and a perfectly starry sky. We brought a small stove, potable water, headlamps, food and a tent, and were completely cozy and self-contained for $20 instead of the $100 we would have spent on a not-so-great hotel room in a nearby town.

Have you disperse camped or used Hipcamp? Let us know in the comments!

Lakedale Resort: San Juan Islands glamping

After a stay in 2015, we listed Lakedale Resort at Three Lakes as our #1 kid-friendly resort pick on San Juan Island Washington. And guess what? In the years since, they’ve only improved their offerings. New this summer, Lakedale has become the premier location for San Juan Islands glamping, as well as continuing to offer a diverse list of additional accommodation options.

Located conveniently between Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor (less than a ten-minute drive from both), Lakedale began humbly as a private campground and has been adding to its offerings ever since. Visitors can now choose between a lodge stay (16 years and up), a cabin stay, canvas tent cabins and cottages, tent camping spaces, a vintage Airstream, or, new this year, glamping yurts. Here’s what you need to know about all your options:

Glamping yurts:

The yurt village is located at the far end of the property, tucked away past an area called ‘the meadow’ by Fish Hook Lake. All seven 24 foot-diameter yurts feel secluded enough, and private. You get 450-square-feet of room, and inside and out, it’s all luxury.

The living room area includes a full sleeper sofa, rocking chair, dining table and chairs for four, and a flat-panel smart TV (just log in with your own Netflix, Hulu, or Amazon account). Adjacent you get a kitchenette, including a wet bar and mid-sized fridge. The bedroom area (all open concept) has a king-sized bed that’s extremely comfortable. And yes, you get a bathroom inside the yurt, with full plumbing. It’s roomy and equipped with everything you need, from towels to a hair dryer.

Each yurt has full electricity (though no air conditioning…don’t worry, you don’t need it) and a big deck with a hot tub (yes, truly!), two chairs, and an outdoor dining area with table and four chairs, plus a barbeque. All your linens, blankets and towels are at the ready, including hot tub/beach towels, and there’s a communal fire pit for the yurt village adjacent. The kitchen area is fully equipped with dishes, cups, a coffee service, and a microwave.

Additional lodging options:

Log cabins:

When our family came in 2015, we stayed in one of Lakedale’s two bedroom, two full bath cabins, with a sofa bed that sleeps six. If you need a full kitchen and lots of space, this is the place to be. Outdoors, you get your own fire ring, and there’s a communal hot tub for the cabins.

Canvas cottages:

Lakedale’s original glamping option is found in the canvas cottage village, located in the middle of the property.  You get 350 square feet of space, with king-size pillow top beds with flannel duvet covers, your own bathroom complete with shower, daybed sleeper (extending to king-size) a chandelier (yep!), a table with four chairs and a fire ring. All cottages are lakefront, which might make them even more popular for families than the yurts.

Canvas tents:

Want a hybrid between tent camping and glamping?  The smaller canvas cabins feature a queen-size bed with pillow-top bedding and flannel duvet, a table and four chairs, a cordless lantern, bath linens, as well as a full-size futon that sleeps two. You get turn-down service in both the cottages and the tents, during which Lakedale will deliver two fleece-covered hot water bottles to keep you warm. Note: there is no electricity or running water in the canvas tents, but the shower building is located right across the way.

With both the canvas cottages and tents, your nightly rate includes a complimentary breakfast in the Mess Hall Tent, located in the heart of the village. You’ll find a pancake machine, granola, oatmeal, yogurt hard-boiled eggs, cereal, fruit, danishes, and coffee, tea, and juices.

Note: the Airstream is bundled with the canvas village and enjoys the same continental breakfast offerings in the Mess Hall Tent.

Tent camping sites:

There are a wide variety of campsites, which all share a shower building and bathroom, with additional port-a-potties throughout the meandering campground. I love that each site is different, and many are tucked away (it is easy to find privacy, usually hard to come by at a large campground). The classic campsite accommodates one tent (four people) and one vehicle. Every campsite has a fire pit and picnic table. Family campsites are larger and can fit more than one tent and two vehicles. You can also upgrade to a lakeside campsite in either size, which I recommend. There are a few really large group sites and some hike-in/bike-in sites for ultimate quiet and privacy.

Tip: for an extra $45, Lakedale will set up a two-person tent, two cots, and two chairs for you before you arrive. It can be difficult to bring all your camping gear with you if you’re not driving over (walk-on ferry passenger), so this is a great option.

If you don’t want to be near a neighbor, I recommend a site in the 200-loop (there are not 200+ sites; they are simply numbered this way) on the outer edge of the ring. Site 110 and site 30 are also ideal.

Note: there are only five RV sites in Lakedale. There simply isn’t space, as their camping sites are all different shapes and sizes to fit the natural surroundings.

Lodge stay:

Lodge rooms are limited and for adults only (each sleep two). You get a full breakfast in the lodge included in your stay, and the back deck of the lodge is a very tranquil place. I recommend coming to Lakedale with kids, then returning in the off-season to enjoy the lodge as a grown-up getaway. The lodge and log cabins are open year-round at Lakedale, but camping and glamping is currently seasonal.

Lakedale Activities:

There is so much to do on-site! Bring bikes, as you’ll want them cruising around the resort (or borrow one of the bikes available on a first-come, first-served basis). The General Store is the central hub of activity, where watersport rentals are offered (water trikes, paddleboards, kayaks, etc) and fishing gear can be procured. You can also grab lunch here, plus ice cream, fire wood, and gourmet items for the grill, such as pre-made kabobs and burgers.

Swimming is popular at Lakedale, and there’s a nice beach area with shallow entry for young kids. Lawn games such as horseshoes, bocce ball and giant chess are plentiful. The activities tent always has activities for kids, such as boat races, birdhouse building, t-shirt tie-dying, and more. Some activities come with an added cost, but most are free. And of course, you’re close to all San Juan Island has to offer. Check out our suggested two-day itinerary, which could be stretched to 3-4 days while staying at Lakedale.

For pricing on lodging options at Lakedale, we suggest calling the friendly front desk of the lodge, as prices do vary by season and they can help you find just the right option for your family.

Disclosure: I experienced San Juan glamping at Lakedale as a guest of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.

The Home Ranch review: Colorado dude ranch

If you book a stay at The Home Ranch, located just outside Steamboat Springs, Colorado, you’d better get used to hearing the word ‘yes’. As in, ‘Yes, we can accommodate that’, or, ‘Yes, we’ll make that happen’, or ‘Yes, you most certainly can’. And yes, this ‘can do’ attitude is a delight to hear during a dude ranch vacation.

We discovered this rhetoric early on during our early summer visit, when I hoped to spend a little extra time with my assigned horse for the week in the fenced riding arena before hitting the many bridle trails. Immediately, despite (or perhaps because of) a daily schedule that runs like a well-oiled machine, head wrangler Michael Moon made sure it happened. I had two excellent sessions in the arena, with wranglers Davy and Bree. I heard ‘yes’ again and again throughout our stay: yes to the family hoping to hop on mountain bikes at the last minute, yes to dietary needs that ranged from pescatarian to vegan, yes to a run for blueberries at breakfast, yes to fly fishing at a specific location.

We’ve now sampled four North American dude ranches, all of which serve up all-inclusive vacations located amid stunning natural beauty with plenty of opportunity for outdoor recreation. All require Western riding boots and cater to families seeking week-long stays. After that, they differ considerably, which is why it’s important to know how to pick the right dude ranch for your family. Or you can cheat, and book The Home Ranch without risk of disappointment: for almost all families, this Colorado dude ranch will tick all the boxes.

What makes The Home Ranch perfect? Three factors: the variety of included outdoor activities offered in addition to the riding program, the level of service and culinary standards (The Home Ranch holds membership in the prestigious Relais & Chateaux hotel association), and the friendliness and flexibility of the staff, from the dining team to the barn director.

Lodging options at The Home Ranch:

Founded in 1978 by the Stranahan family, The Home Ranch sits on 4,000 acres along the Elk River, in the shadow of the Zirkel Wilderness and the Sawtooth Mountains. The cozily sprawling main lodge houses six guest rooms, several of which have lofts to accommodate kids in a suite-style layout, plus communal ‘living room’ space with a river rock fireplace and tucked away sunroom, a dining room and no-host bar, and front and back decks with lots of lounging options. Out front sits the children’s recreation building, outdoor pool and hot tub, and within easy walking distance amid the aspen trees, eight cabins accommodate from four to eight guests each.

Each of the cabins and the guest rooms in the lodge include in-room WiFi, a small fridge stocked with some sparkling water and snacks, pantry snacks such as granola bars and homemade cookies, and a Keurig coffee maker (in the lodge, we just stepped downstairs in our provided robes to use the Keurig at the wet bar adjacent to the living room). The Home Ranch does not use keys, but you can lock yourself into your room with a deadbolt, and a safe is available in each room and cabin. You also get a hair dryer and makeup mirror, humidifier, and the aforementioned bathrobes. Cabins have fireplaces or wood-burning stoves. We were very comfortable in our lodge room…the only thing I missed was a patio or balcony, so I could enjoy a beverage in the morning or evening while looking out over the beautiful Alpine valley views.

A typical day at The Home Ranch looks a little like this:

Breakfast is served in the lodge dining room from 7:30 am until 9 am, with continental offerings and coffee and tea set out earlier. At breakfast, which is made to order (just about anything you could ask for), with two featured specials per day, head wrangler Michael makes the rounds, taking ‘orders’ for the day’s activities. Morning rides depart from the barn around 9:30 and 10 am, and in addition to kids’ rides led by specialized children’s counselors and adult rides split into ability groups, families can ask for individual family rides as well.

Lunch is served on the front deck, and always included sandwich makings, a variety of salads and veggies, two soup options, and something on the grill every day. Around 2 pm, an afternoon ride is offered for all groups, or families can opt for pool time. During both the morning and afternoon rides, staff members from the hiking and fishing huts offer fly fishing clinics and trips, guided hikes, guided mountain biking on state-of-the-art suspension mountain bikes, and nature walks. Most days, we opted for a morning ride followed by an afternoon playing in the mountains in another capacity.

After the afternoon rides and activities, kids are kept busy with the children’s counselors while parents freshen up or enjoy a dip in the pool, and children’s dinner is served on the deck around 6:30 pm, with adult dinner in the dining room around 7 pm. The kids continue to be looked after until 9 pm.

While this is the general schedule, every day holds a different surprise, such as a brunch ride one day (riding horses to an 11 am brunch), an ‘all day ride’ offered several times during the week (a few hours in the saddle followed by lunch at a remote location and a few hours back), and evening activities that include wine pairing dinners, cookouts, and barn dances.

Highlight: kids are supervised with their own programming with their own dedicated counselors during the morning ride, after lunch, during the afternoon ride/activity time, between activities and dinner, during dinner, and after dinner. That’s a lot of supervision! Of course, you can always take your kids out of the children’s program for any family time. However, kids are not allowed at grown-up dinner.

Dining at The Home Ranch:

When you drive up to the ranch on arrival, the first thing you notice might not be the barn and horses. It might be a greenhouse and gardens. That’s because The Home Ranch hires a horticulture team headed by Home Ranch team member Allison to provide some of the food for the ranch kitchen; in fact, I was told 80% of their salad greens and veggies are homegrown…not an easy feat at elevation in Colorado. Chickens and livestock are also raised on-site for local, sustainable meat and eggs. There are even beehives.

Executive chef Jonathon Gillespie is highly creative (we affectionately called him the mad scientist chef) and our meals were extremely fresh, inventive and delightful every night. All meals utilize the fresh food available, with a whole food-bent. All diets can be accommodated. You will never go hungry; Pastry Chef Douglas Short’s pastries and freshly baked breads were my personal downfall.

The honor bar in the lodge is fully stocked with a good variety of wines, local beers, liquors, and all the mixers you might need. Just go in and help yourself, writing down any selections on the provided tickets organized by cabin or room name. Not realizing The Home Ranch would have such a fully stocked bar, we brought a fair amount of our own booze, and if we had had a balcony in our lodge room, we might have made our own drinks to enjoy there (guest-brought alcohol is permitted, but only in rooms and cabins). However, we quickly realized we didn’t need to. Wine, cocktails and beer can be ordered at dinner as well. Each dinner menu offered two featured wine suggestions, but everything in the bar is available during meals as well.

Included activities at The Home Ranch:

In addition to the elevated cuisine and service, the amount of included activities at The Home Ranch is what sets it apart for me from the others we visited. We tried out just about everything, and the only things we encountered with an extra charge included alcohol (both from the bar and at dinner), items bought in the gift shop, and on-site massages. Of course, you can add more to this list if you ask the ranch to arrange off-site activities, such as clay pigeon shooting, river rafting, hot air balloon rides, or gravity-based (lift-served) mountain biking at Steamboat. However, all on-site activities were included.

Horse program:

The horse program at The Home Ranch offers the best first-day orientation we’ve encountered so far at a dude ranch. The wranglers take the time to explain not just what to do on the horses, but why, and extensive (but not too lengthy) instruction is given in the arena before riders hit the trails. Each guest who wants to ride horseback is paired with a horse of their own for the week, which is very nice for consistency. Wranglers divide up rides into small groups based on ability levels and desires (grouping all riders who want to trot and lope together, for instance, and all riders who want to only walk together). Every wrangler we rode with was excellent, and I never rode the same trail twice. The topography varies between high mountain meadows, woods, and ridges, with plenty of interesting moments as horses picked their way carefully down steep grades or loped along fence lines (as desired by the group of riders).

I never grew tired of riding. As noted above, all-day rides are offered several times during the week, as well as a ‘Ride Fish Ride’ offering, which combines the two sports. One day during the week, wranglers invite guests to help them bring in the cattle from a distant pasture, and the week often culminates in a ‘rodeo’ of horse and cattle games in the arena.

Hiking, biking, and fishing:

Next to the recreation building in front of the lodge sits the hiking hut and the fishing hut. Visit either (or just talk to Michael at meals) to arrange hiking, mountain biking, or fishing. Daily organized hikes were led during our visit by guide Gage, whose repertoire of hikes include trails on the North Fork, Hinman Lake and Overlook, Home Mountain, Burr Ridge, Hahn’s Peak, Three Island, and Zirkel Circle. He can also bring in additional guides for specific routes or needs. Gage also led the mountain biking, which included single track and dirt road biking on The Home Ranch’s off-site (but close by) property, called Murphy-Larson. He also leads additional rides into the national forest land adjacent the ranch, when permitted.

The Home Ranch is an Orvis-endorsed fly fishing lodge, which means that when you visit the fishing hut, the friendly fishing guide staff can outfit you with Orvis gear and offers a fly fishing clinic on the lawn and in the stocked pond on ranch property. We caught two fish in the pond, then one member of our group fished the Elk for two afternoons, catching multiple trout (catch and release). Three miles of the Elk flows right through the property.

Don’t overlook the hiking, biking, and fishing opportunities at the ranch. While horseback riding is often the main draw, some guests spend their entire time fishing or hiking, and we can see why!

Check week-long rates for The Home Ranch here. During the early season and late season, sometimes four-night stays can be accommodated if needed, but we recommend the full week-long program. You won’t want to go home earlier!

Disclosure: We checked out The Home Ranch at the invitation of the ranch, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.

Five favorite coastal campgrounds for families

Families wanting to make the most of the camping season need to head to coastal, temperate zones to avoid temperature extremes (bonus if they can find yurts or cabins at the campground). Family camping is economical, easy to plan, and often close to home! We’ve compiled a list of our favorite coastal campgrounds for families in the Pacific Northwest and California. At each of the following state campgrounds, you’ll find miles of beach, shady trails, ample camping space, and programs for kids. Check the websites below for exact pricing, but on average, California and Oregon state park fees are very reasonable (under $20 a night for tent camping and under $30 for hook-ups). Don’t forget hot cocoa and most importantly, the s’mores!

 

 

Sunset Bay State Park OR: Located just outside Coos Bay, Oregon on Highway 101, it’s safe to say Sunset Bay is my family’s favorite coastal campground. The sites are nestled in a beautiful forest just steps from the beach, flat, paved loops allow for perfect bike riding around camp, the showers are heated and facilities up-to-date, and the beach itself is gorgeous. Best of all, yurts are available (reserve far ahead!), as well as two additional state parks within easy hiking distance.

Cape Blanco State Park, OR: The beacon of the Cape Blanco lighthouse welcomes campers to this windswept section of Oregon’s pacific coast, where rugged cliffs and high coastal plains lead from Highway 101 to the campground. The sites overlook the beach and light with lots of space for kids to play and explore. All sites are first-come, first-served at this park, but there are four rustic cabins that can be reserved ahead of time. I’ve never seen this park truly crowded, and love the stark beauty of the storm-battered coast along this exposed shore. In season, families can take a lighthouse tour, too!

Harris Beach State Park, OR: One of our favorite beaches for its natural beauty and natural playground qualities for kids, Harris Beach is located just north of Brookings, Oregon (again, on Highway 101). Kids love to explore the rock formations along the cliff sides of this beach, as well as the creek that feeds into it from the nearby campground. I love that the campground has plenty of sites, and is on the bluff overlooking the beach, giving campers wonderful views of the ocean (and keeping day crowds away from the sites). The town of Brookings is near enough to offer conveniences, but far enough removed that families truly feel away from it all. And like Sunset Bay, yurts are available to rent (but be sure to reserve early!).

 

Navarro River Redwoods State Park: This gorgeous state park just off scenic Highway 1 near Albion in Mendocino County boasts beachcombing, swimming, picnicking, and camping at Paul M. Demmick campground. The redwoods here are fantastic: in summer, you’ll be cocooned in a shady bower (when you’re not seeking the sunshine on the beach), and kids love playing in and around these massive trees while at the campground. For a fun way to spend the day, venture to the Russian river for a swim!

San Onofre State Beach, CA: This sunny California beachside state park near the city of San Cemente offers sunbathing, surfing, and boogie-boarding in addition to San Mateo Campground, which lies one mile away via sandy trail. The pros of this camping experience are many: think blue skies, warm evenings, and beautiful surf. There are, however cons: the proximity of both the freeway (I-5) and Amtrak train tracks are definitely annoying, and the beach can certainly get crowded in summer. With 3.5 miles of sand at your disposal however, you’re sure to find a place to lay your beach towels!

Bonus campground idea: Check out Hug Point State ParkHug Point State Park for a more economical beach trip near Cannon Beach, Oregon.

Want more camping info? Get Pit Stops for Kids’ camping gear list!

Portugal with kids: Martinhal Cascais review

If you’re visiting Portugal with kids, you’ll certainly be spending multiple days in Lisbon. Read our tips for Lisbon here. When you need a reprieve from city touring, head to the nearby seaside town of Cascais, where Martinhal Cascais is a resort destination in and of itself.

Most resorts designated as ‘kid-friendly’ or ‘family-centric’ are loud and overstimulating. Martinhal Cascais completely defies this expectation and greets parents with serenity and five-star luxury. Kids are welcomed and celebrated here—every aspect of Martinhal Cascais has kids in mind—but not at the expense of adults. Instead, this property remains elegant and calming while also maintaining a relaxed vibe.

Martinhal Cascais review:

Indoor/outdoor kid-friendly spa pool

Upon check-in, kids are greeted with goodie bags with stuffed (plush) toys, hats, ping-pong sets and the like. Parents are given the run-down of the resort: suites come as either half board (breakfast and one additional meal per day included) or full board (all three meals per day included), allowing you to create a fully inclusive experience. Or, you can opt out of any included meals, and pay a la carte (suites often include fridges and wet bars and villas include full kitchens).

 

We suggesting visiting Martinhal Cascais mid-vacation, and using this posh, peaceful property for some much needed R&R. Rooms and suites vary, but in general, the property has 60+ deluxe rooms that sleep four, with either pull-out bunk beds or sofa pullouts) and four suites (with a slider door division between bed and sofa pullout).

Martinhal bunks in most rooms (they fold up in the daytime!)

All rooms have kid-friendly features such as potty chairs, high chairs, and baby proofing, and additional gear such as bottle warmers or cots (cribs) can be requested. Twelve stand-alone villas line the side of the property, six of which sleep six instead of the standard four). However, these villas are awkward to reach; even though they’re adjacent to the playground area, a fence necessitates going around via road each time you come and go). Unless you really need the space for six, I suggest a suite in the main resort building or a deluxe room instead.

Martinhal villas

Bathrooms are gorgeous and feature oversized tubs and step-in showers. All rooms are bright and airy with sleek glass at every turn (but plenty of shades for when you need them). Most if not all have very spacious balconies or patios with outdoor furniture.

Most meals are had in the main dining space downstairs, which is where families meet for the breakfast buffet serving all manner of hot dishes (eggs, breakfast meats, pancakes), a wide variety of gourmet cheese and cut meats, breads, croissant and pastry, cereals, granola, and yogurt, fruit, and freshly-squeezed fruit juices. Mimosas are available for adults, as well as anything else you care to order from your server. Even the honey is presented in an actual comb, and cheese wheels are hand-cut on-site. A full, leisurely and gourmet dinner meal is served here as well, at indoor and outdoor patio seating. Lest you think this sounds pretty much awful with young kids in tow, fear not: a small playroom is located to one side of the dining room, staffed so you can let kids play there without leaving your own meal to get cold.

 

 

In fact, throughout the property, what I deemed ‘roaming nannies’ are always at-hand, ready to step in and entertain your children while you relax, read a book, eat a meal, or simply have a conversation. This is as amazing as it sounds. If you want to eat elsewhere for a change of pace from the dining room, the M Bar is located above the kids’ club, and offers a more casual (yet still delicious) lunch and dinner menu. Parents can opt for a balcony seat and watch their kids play on the playground below, or make use of the kids’ club or one of those useful roaming staff members. There’s a full bar here as well, as well as a lobby bar located by the dining room.

Martinhal Cascais kids’ club

The spa books appointments for adults as well as ‘mom and me’ and ‘dad and me’ type treatments for kids, and the additional spa facilities, including the indoor pool, hot tub and sauna and the smaller outdoor pool and lounge deck are all open to kids (accompanied by parents). This is a great opportunity to teach children about quiet indoor voices and how to behave in a spa-like environment without anyone fussing at them to leave.

I cannot emphasize enough how calming the entire property feels. Parents can truly have a restful holiday without sacrificing any of the amenities kids crave. I really don’t know how they achieve this, but it’s magic.

Outdoor pool hangout (seasonal)

What to do on site and off:

On-site, families will find a plethora of activities. The kids’ club welcomes kids up to age 12 (and this is flexible for older siblings) and baby club (for infants) are both fully-staffed and open daily. They’re located across the lawn from the suites adjacent to an impressive climbing structure, kid-sized zip lines, an in-ground trampoline and an in-ground air mattress for jumping. Right outside the brightly-lit indoor kids’ club and baby club lies an indoor heated pool (housed under a plastic dome to keep the air very warm inside).

indoor kids’ pool

Kids can be served meals in the club, or parents can check them in and out at will. Parents can also join their kids in the pool area, or in a separate play around for family use. Across the grounds, a seasonal outdoor pool complex with zero-depth entry beckons in the summer months, and all year-round, the Martinhal spa offers an additional indoor/outdoor pool where kids are welcome. Additional outdoor lounging areas and play structures are dotted across the resort grounds. If all this isn’t enough, there is also a turf futsal (soccer) field and bike rentals on-site (starting around 15 Euro for two-hour rentals…helmets available).

just part of the outdoor playground

When you’re ready to explore further afield, the beautiful Portuguese coastline awaits, easily accessible by foot or bike from Martinhal: just navigate 2-3 blocks to the coastline, then enjoy the well-maintained bike and pedestrian path that hugs the ocean. This is a rocky section of coastline, so parents of young kids will want to take care, but the views are spectacular. If you take the path left from the resort, you’ll end up in the town of Cascais (about 2 km), where multiple sand beaches and a marina await. Head in the opposite direction and a slightly longer bike ride or walk will take you to a more rugged, windy beach mostly used for surfing and kite surfing.

Cascais

It’s well worth spending an afternoon or two at Cascais, enjoying the historic town center and beaches. Several fortresses still perch on the rocky cliffside, including Cidadela Palace of Cascais that now serves as a multi-use space for restaurants and museums near town. En route, you’ll also pass by the Santa Maria lighthouse and Boca do Inferno, a dramatic, gaping cliffside attraction where kids can peer down at the sea from bridges and paths.

Let the kids play in Marechal Carmona Park, then walk the main pedestrian street of Cascais or play on the beaches. Four are located past the marina area, including Pescadores, Rainha, Conceicao and Duquesa. We think Conceicao is the largest, offering lounge chairs to rent to settle in. In town, several inviting rooftop bars offer homemade pitchers of sangria should you find yourself kid-free (or have brought plenty of kid-friendly snacks to keep little ones happy).

How to get here: TAP Portugal is the way to go, with direct flights now from New York and Boston. They even have stop-over options for travelers who can only spend a few days.

Disclosure: I experienced Martinhal Cascais as a guest of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

Hiking to AMC huts: how to plan your Appalachian Mountain Club adventure

After our East Coast Pit Stops for Kids family tried out Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC)’s Highland Center Lodge during a winter break, they knew they had to come back for a summer stay, hiking to AMC huts! What are AMC huts? They’re a network of hike-in lodges operated by Appalachian Mountain Club. Hikers can depart for huts from trailheads, or from the Highland Center Lodge. We sent our nine-year-old, Tobias, along for the ride, and they spent three days in the White Mountains of New Hampshire experiencing what AMC has to offer with three generations: grandparents, parents, and kids ages 4-9.

Highland Center Lodge in summer:

While the Highland Center offers winter outdoor activities in the snowy months, it has even more activity in summer. Upon arrival, all the kids gravitated toward their large outdoor play structure, with bridges, ropes, and other challenges. Day hikes from Highland Center are manageable for young kids, and daily nature hikes are offered at 9 am and 1 pm. Our crew really enjoyed these 1.5 hour hikes with guides, learning fun facts about flora and fauna along the way. Tip: kids can participate in the Junior Naturalist program while at the Highland Center and in the huts. Like the Junior Ranger program, the naturalist program involves filling out a workbook and participating in free activities.

Meals: Meals at the lodge are communal, cafeteria-style affairs. Breakfast and dinner are included in your stay. Meals aren’t particularly kid-friendly, but note this unadvertised fact: parents can ask for a PB&J sandwich at any time.

Lodging: Families reserve bunk rooms at the Highland Center. Our group had a six-person bunk room with three bunk beds. They had linens, pads, towels and pillows. There were plugs/lighting, and lots of hooks to put stuff on. Bunk rooms share a bathroom with showers with shampoo and soap dispensers. Some bunk rooms do have their own bathrooms. The lodging was very comfortable, and as a bonus, included free wifi.

highland-center-lodge

AMC huts:

Part of the appeal of staying at the Highland Center is the chance to venture further…to an AMC hut. AMC runs a whole network of these huts (and when we say ‘hut’, don’t think small: some sleep as many as 60 or more!). Some can be accessed via trail directly from the Highland Center, and others require a short shuttle ride to the trailhead. Our take: the huts are what make the AMC experience in the White Mountains truly special. While our group had the youngest children we encountered, they were easily up for the challenge: don’t be afraid to try!

mizpah-spring-hut

Which hut is right for you? The right hut (or huts) to visit will depend on how many miles you want to hike, and what you want to do when you get there. Our group decided to hike to the Mizpah Spring hut, because the trail could be accessed from the lodge, and was a distance we knew would be manageable. (Huts are approximately 1.5-6 miles from trailheads.) While our crew liked the hut, we’ll try Zealand Falls or Lonesome Lake next time, as these destinations may have more for the kids to do once we get there. At Mizpah Spring, fewer outdoor ‘entertainment’ options existed (such as swimming).

The heart of the hut experience lies within the staff. The Mizpah Spring hut ‘Croo’, as they’re called, were fantastic. This enthusiastic bunch of young people clean and cook, play with kids, and generally add to the lively, fun atmosphere of the hut vibe. Apart from a few families, most of the hut guests were young adults hiking in small groups, and the atmosphere was low-key, friendly, and very outdoor oriented. Tales were told in the evening of best hikes, great views, and exciting adventure. Tip: if you have a kid working on a Junior Naturalist workbook, have him or her finish it at a hut. The Mizpah Spring Croo did a whole ceremony for our kids, including a silly skit and a ‘swearing in’. They loved it!

mizpah-hut-trail

Meals: Like at the lodge, meals are communal, but in our opinion, food is even better! The Croo is focused on eco-friendly dining; there are no paper products and all trash is carried out.

Lodging: Each hut is different, but at Mizpah (with 60 occupancy) there are eight rooms with triple bunk beds. Expect to share rooms with others! Our group shared a room with three strangers (who were probably sorry to see a bunch of kids, though they behaved well!). There are pads, blankets and pillows, but no electricity in the rooms. Expect compost toilets, and sinks with running cold water in the hall.

Keep in mind: the AMC hut experience differs from a traditional backpacking or camping experience, in that you will be with other people much of the time. The shared experience is part of the fun, but come prepared: you’ll be sharing the space with many others.

nature-hike

How to book: Book (early!) through the AMC website. We recommend calling ahead of time to ask questions about routes and sleeping arrangements. The staff is very friendly and helpful.

How to get there: The Highland Center Lodge is about 20 miles off I-93 at exit 35 between Lincoln and Franconia, NH.

What you’ll need:

  • Backpacks (day packs will work) with clothing
  • Sleeping bag or sleep sack
  • Sturdy hiking boots
  • Toiletries and insect repellent
  • sun hats and beanies for chilly mornings

What we wished we’d known beforehand:

  • The trail to the Mizpah Spring hut is steep! Our four-year-old was basically bouldering the whole time!
  • Bring a trash bag
  • Bring snacks and water bottles

Nearby attractions:

While in the area, stop by any of the following in the White Mountains!

  • Diana’s Bath: very fun swimming holes and waterfalls for kids!
  • Franconia Notch: Flume Gorge and Echo Lake await!
  • Pinkham Notch: try the Mt. Washington Railway!
  • North Conway: the Cranmore Adventure and Ariel Park is perfect for older kids!

Golf vacations with kids: tips for a great resort golf experience

Our kids like to golf, but they’re hardly miniature pros. They’re kids, and they want to have fun on the links. We want them to have fun, too, but also appreciate that other guests may want to enjoy the course without distractions or delays. It’s easy to get stressed when on golf vacations with kids, which is why we’ve compiled the following tips for a great golf resort experience:
pga-tour-kids

1. Pick a resort that’s youth golf-friendly.

When you step into a golf course pro shop and see only adult clubs and apparel, that’s a bad sign. A kid-friendly golf course will have kids’ clubs lining the walls, and even better yet: rentals. Think this is only the case at less luxurious nine-hole courses? Not so. Our favorite golf resort, Brasada Ranch, offers a course for the most sophisticated golfer, and yet staff members still smile when kids come in the door of the pro shop. It’s no surprise to me that Brasada Ranch is pro-youth golfer: this Preferred Hotel is a designated Preferred Family location, which means it offers kid-friendly perks on and off the links. We were able to play nine holes instead of 18 with our kids (not usually allowed for adults on the course), and the starter took extra care to time our start when no one would be crowding us.

Brasada Canyons golf

Likewise, the Coeur d’ Alene Resort in scenic Idaho appeals to kids because of its fun floating green on Lake Coeur d’ Alene, but parents will get more excited that kids golf free. Better yet: sign up for Preferred Hotel Group’s point-based reward program like we have, and Mom and Dad can golf with the kids this time around, and return later on points for a couples’ day on the links. This option extends further than Idaho: to find the best family friendly golf property that’s included in iPrefer, start at PreferredFamily.com/iPrefer. Win-win.

2. Opt for a twilight tee time.

Every golf resort has a least desirable time of day to be on the links; the key is to find out when that is, and book a tee time. Often, twilight tee times are least desirable, as the light gets bad, but depending on the resort location, the least desirable time could be mid-day or late afternoon. If you’re golfing in Palm Springs in summer, of instance, the courses are empty at 3 pm. Golfing at low-crowd periods ensures kids can golf at their own pace, and parents don’t need to worry about backing up pairs behind them. Another perk: twilight tee times are often discounted.

3. Play every other hole with young kids and beginners.

If you’re golfing with a beginner, let the starter know. If you’re indeed at a kid-friendly course, he or she will be able to offer suggestions of holes to pass up. Skipping a hole or two is a good strategy to implement when parents start to notice groups waiting for them to finish each hole, or when kids begin to wilt. Our kids are now tweens, and they’ve yet to finish 18 holes at one time.

tigh na mara

4. Try a golf academy or kids’ camp.

If you have a serious golfer in your midst, consider finding a golf destination offering a PGA Tour Academy lesson.  We had an amazing experience in Central Oregon with the PGA Academy, where our golf swing was recorded on video and we were instructed by the best. If you’re not ready to go pro, look for a resort with a kids’ camp that includes golf. We’ve enjoyed kids’ camp experiences that take kids to the driving range for a one-on-one lesson with the golf pro after-hours.

5. Play on the putting course or green.

Everyone knows to start at the driving range, but far more interesting to kids is the putting course. Many resorts now feature these ‘mini courses’, which offer nine or 18 holes complete with rolling hills and sand traps but require far shorter driving distances. In fact, your kids will need only a chipper and a putter. These courses can be completed in an hour, and cost a fraction of the price of the real deal. We tried our first putting course with the expectation that we’d graduate to the regular course right after: instead, we hit the pool, completely satisfied with our golf experience.
The most important step in experiencing a kid-friendly golf vacation is to start with a kid-friendly resort. What’s your favorite?
For more family travel tips, see Spas and Family Vacations: The Perfect Combination by Mother of All Trips.
Disclosure: This post is part of a series about Preferred Hotel Group’s Preferred Family and iPrefer programs.

Oregon Cowboy vacation: Wilson Ranches Retreat

Guest post by travel writer Sarah McCully-Posner.

Wilson Ranches Retreat  is a really special place. It is an authentic, family owned, working ranch just outside of the small town of Fossil in Eastern Oregon. The ranch lies within the beautiful Butte Creek Canyon and on your drive in you not only see the cattle grazing lazily in the fields, but song birds flying above, and quail scurrying across the road.

wilson-ranches-retreat

We signed in at the registration desk and made our way to our lovely room.

Tip: if you don’t have a reservation when you arrive, pick an available room in the book and make yourself comfortable. Weekends get very busy, so reservations are recommended. 

The Wilson Family takes “Pioneer Hosipitality” very seriously; your kids will be hugged and they love to tell funny stories that bring about big belly laughs. The family has an incredible sense of humor that we all enjoyed. They are available to the guests at all times and do their very best to help in every way possible.

Guest rooms:

Rooms are tidy and sweet and each offers a little something different than all of the rest. Each room had lovely, soft robes for guests to use and extra blankets for chillier nights. Rooms on the main and second levels have air conditioning for warm summer nights. Some rooms have TVs, but the main TV and VCR are in the living room and there is a large library of videos for people of all ages. Board games can be found in the day light basement for more entertainment and there is a lawn where we enjoyed throwing the Frisbee and football. There are 3 bathrooms in the house which are shared by everyone. BBQs, microwave, guest fridge, coffee makers and tea pot are always available.

wilson-ranches-retreat

Dining:

Breakfast in the morning is served at 8:00am. You will wake up to the sweet smell of fresh coffee and bacon being fried up. Nancy and Phil cook for all of the guests and everyone sits down family style to share the meal and lots of stories. Prepare to laugh! Farm fresh eggs, bacon, oatmeal, peaches, biscuits, gravy, juice and all of the toppings make for full, happy bellies which will sustain you throughout your ride and much of your day.

Activities:

wilson-ranches-retreat

Wilson Ranches Retreat offers horseback riding for adults and kids age four and older, which we were quick to take advantage of as we have a little city slicker with a big cowboy heart. We did an hour and a half ride, but ride times can vary. Just talk to your wonderful hosts and they will help you organize everything. The horses are calm and gentle and I had no worries about my six-year-old riding on his own. The horses are matched up to you based on your size and experience. If you do not have boots or hats, they have them for you to borrow for your ride. Rides for younger kids are scenic, although you might get a chance to ride among some of the cows. Families with older kids can enjoy cattle drives, checking fence lines or for strays, and taking part in pasture moves. Riders in groups of 1-3 are $45/hour each, riders in groups of 4 or more are $40/hour each.

riding-at-wilson-ranches-retreat

There are so many other things to do off the ranch as well. You can dig for fossils of ancient flora on the hill behind the high school. Cost is $5/person, or $15/family of four. They have tools there for you to use and as you can dig as long as you like. This is like searching for treasure, but you always come away with something amazing! We also had a look at the Painted Hills National Monument. The hour drive each way is worth it for an incredible sight everyone should see. The intense colors and textures had our heads spinning. There is also rafting, fishing, hiking, biking, museums, fairs, rodeos, and more. Wilson Ranches Retreat is a great home base for all of it.

Rates:

This B&B house is not your standard B&B. We have never really considered staying in one as a family since most are usually set up for couples. Wilsons Ranches Retreat has six rooms that can accommodate anywhere from 1-6 people. Room prices start at $105/night for the cozy Wrangler Room (sleeps 1-2 people) and go up to $185/night for the massive Homestead Room (sleeps 1-6 people). The prices are based on a double occupancy and include breakfast. Each additional person (including kids) is $10 which includes their breakfast.

Directions:

The ranch is accessible from both I-84 and Highway 97, making the drive from Bend or Portland very easy! For full directions to Fossil, start here!

Sarah and her family stayed at Wilson Ranches Retreat as guests of the B&B, for the purpose of review. We thank them for trekking to Eastern Oregon to explore (and hope to do the same soon)!

Where to stay in Santa Fe: Inn and Spa at Loretto review

Santa Fe, New Mexico is a fun town for parents, and can be surprisingly kid-friendly, too. Whether you’re planning a parents-getaway or a family vacation, the Inn and Spa at Loretto offers an authentic feel, proximity to just about everything, and an upscale but relaxed vibe.

inn-at-loretto-review

This boutique AAA four-diamond hotel has made Travel + Leisure’s World Best list, and houses an award-winning spa, but what I appreciated most was the authentic feel to the property. Located less than two blocks from Santa Fe’s historic Plaza and steps from dining and shopping, the Loretto is a five-story pueblo building surrounded by local flora and fauna and local sculptures. In fact, it sits adjacent to the famous Chapel at Loretto, and was built on the grounds of the former Academy of our Lady of Light. It’s very serene, despite being close to Santa Fe attractions. Inside, the pueblo style includes long, tiled hallways, interior art shops, and plenty of patios, balconies, and stucco spaces.

inn-at-loretto

As seemed true for Sante Fe in general, the average age of guests during my stay at the Loretto appeared to be about 65; I only saw a handful of families (but it was the off-season). There’s plenty to attract parents with kids, including the beautiful grounds, a lovely outdoor pool, and a spa that welcomes teens (with parents).

Amenities:

Rooms in Loretto are spacious, include complimentary wifi, and bathrooms with tubs. The small fridge in each room shares its space with mini-bar items, with is a negative for families hoping to store leftovers and breakfast items, but some space does remain (you need a key to open the fridge, but as long as you leave mini-bar items in place, you’ll be fine).

My deluxe category guest room featured a kiva fireplace (with candle) and spacious balcony with seating area. Standard rooms don’t include these features, but many Superior category rooms (less than Deluxe) do include private or shared balconies. Be sure to call the front desk and ask for details on your room.

inn-at-loretto-deluxe-room

Dining at Loretto:

The Loretto offers three meals a day in their Lumineria restaurant with indoor and patio seating and what locals told me is a variation on New Mexican cuisine. Breakfast in Lumineria was excellent (try the huge breakfast burrito). Room service is also available. Dinner at Luminaria was a decidedly upscale event, with mood lighting and a peaceful, elegant feel. I tried the chiles rellenos and loved my meal. Their signature cocktails are inventive and delicious (try the Sagebrush). For lunch or more casual fare, the Living Room features simpler fare from Lumineria in a lounge and patio setting. It opens at 2 pm daily, and includes pool service.

lumineria-dining

The Spa at Loretto:

If parents have time and childcare, a trip to the Spa at Loretto will greatly enhance any trip. This spa won the Reader’s Choice award from Conde Nast Traveler, and after spending almost two hours in treatments, I can see why. I opted for a luxurious pedicure at the spa, which included time in their ‘zero gravity’ chairs. These chairs rotate you onto your back, with feet parallel to the floor. Sounds uncomfortable? It’s the opposite! In fact, I nearly fell asleep, and was told dozing in the zero gravity chairs is very common. If only airlines would adopt them…

inn-and-spa-at-loretto-review

Room Rates:

When I checked, rates as low as $150/night could be found. Superior and Deluxe category rooms will be more, but for a family, a balcony may not be necessary; there are plenty of outdoor spaces in the hotel. The Loretto also offers a gorgeous penthouse suite located on their fifth floor: with almost as much outdoor space as indoor (in the form of balconies and decks), this suite is an amazing venue for a social event or large family getaway.

What’s nearby:

From the Loretto, families can walk two blocks to the Plaza, and less than five blocks to Canyon Road shopping, the Cross of the Martyrs and site of Fort Marcy, and the Georgia O’Keeffe museum.

Directions:

The Loretto is located at 211 Old Santa Fe Trail in downtown Santa Fe. It’s only a few minutes from I-25, an hour from the airport in Albuquerque and 20 minutes from the airport in Santa Fe.

As I disclose whenever applicable, the Inn and Spa at Loretto hosted my stay, for the purpose of review. Without their hospitality, I would be unable to inform my readers about lodging and dining picks.