Colorado - Pitstops for Kids

Best Ski Towns: Luxury Vail ski vacation

November 25, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

It’s impossible to have a ‘best ski towns’ series and not include Vail, Colorado. There’s a reason Vail has been absent from our list thus far…it’s already on everyone else’s list. That said, Vail deserves a place on ours as well, because with perhaps the exception of Deer Valley Utah, Vail and its neighbor and Vail Resorts partner, Beaver Creek, offer up the most luxurious ski vacation experience we’ve tried. If you’re looking to book a luxury Vail ski vacation, here’s how to do it.

Luxury Vail ski vacation planning:

Start by setting the tone for your vacation by staying at The Sonnenalp. This Leading Hotels of the World-classified hotel delivers that coveted and rare combination: it’s both luxurious and comfortable. It’s right in the heart of the Vail Village, and the Sonnenalp ski concierge service ensures you never have to carry your own gear anywhere (plus you get a private ski locker and changing area directly across from Gondola One). I love the amenities at a hotel, but still want the space of a rental during a ski vacation, and at the Sonnenalp, almost all the rooms are suites. Vail Resorts-owned Arrabelle is also a home run, located in the Lionshead Village (a very short shuttle ride from Vail Village).

At Vail, the skiing and snowboarding can be fantastic, thanks to its sheer size and diversity of terrain, but a vacation here is also about the overall experience. To that end, when planning a luxury Vail ski vacation, take as much time to plan your dining reservations as you do your ski days. (Yes, it almost hurts me to write this, as an avid ‘go all day long’ skier, but when in Rome…)

With kids, definitely make at least one reservation at Swiss Chalet, located in The Sonnenalp. They’ll love the authentic Alpine cuisine, and fondue is fast to the table and fun to eat, keeping kids entertained. Other sure bets in Vail with kids: Bully Ranch, with casual burgers and to-die-for tater tots, and Blue Moose Pizza (a crowd-pleaser for sure).

If you and your partner or spouse can get away for a long lunch on the mountain, head to The 10th, Vail’s premiere on-mountain option (in my opinion). There’s just something so luxurious about a sit-down lunch during the heart of the day. Plus, the views are amazing, so even if you’re not skiing, it’s worth booking (you can take Gondola One up without ski gear).

Additional must-do’s for the grown ups: La Tour on East Meadow Drive for French cuisine in the heart of the village and Tavern on the Square in Lionshead Village. If you’re in the mood to stay out late, head to the Red Lion in Vail Village for the best live music (and a very local scene), then finish your evening out with a nightcap at King’s Club in Sonnenalp.

In addition to skiing, hotels and ski rental shops alike will rent or lend you snowshoes, which families can take on their own around the villages or up the nearby summit passes (if you have a car), or guided snowshoe trips are offered at Sonnenalp and other luxury properties.

Plan an evening in which you simply window shop (or productively shop…your choice) in Vail Village, Beaver Creek Village, or Lionshead Village, where you’ll find the top stores in outdoor gear, lifestyle wear and more, and then go ice skating on one of the many outdoor rinks (we counted three in Vail and one in Beaver Creek, but there are probably more). If interested, look to time your visit around world-class ski and board competitions: Vail and Beaver Creek host many, including the Burton cup and the Birds of Prey stop on the World Cup downhill tour. Best of all, viewing these competitions is often free.

Kids’ ski lessons are among the best quality in the world at both Vail and Beaver Creek (BC especially often wins awards and recognition for theirs), and as an added incentive (if you need it), near Vail’s ski school learning areas in Lionshead, a full ropes adventure course is on offer…tempt your kids to try this after their lessons are over for the day!

What do you love to do as part of a luxury Vail ski vacation?

Where to eat in Breckenridge (in any season)

October 22, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Breckenridge, Colorado is not just a ski town. It’s also a hiking town, a mountain biking town, a fall leaf peeping town, and yes, a foodie town. Here’s where to eat out, whether you’re in town for the snow or the trails.

With the kids:

Need apres-ski or hiking spots big on fun, deck-space, brews for mom and dad, and a casual ambiance? Here’s where to go in town.

Breckenridge Brewery:

Located at 600 S. Main Street, Breck Brew is one of the nation’s top micro-breweries. It’s also very kid-friendly. While mom and dad enjoy a flight, kids can get down with great burgers, sandwiches, and other pub fare.

Motherloaded Tavern:

This cozy spot at 103 S. Main Street is both casual and sophisticated. Foodies will like the irony of comfort foods going gourmet, and kids will just be happy to recognize nearly everything on the menu. Think homemade mac and cheese, chicken and waffles, and pot roast…need I go on?

Crepes a la Carte:

This one’s a no-brainer. Located at 307 S. Main Street, Breckenridge’s famous crepe cart has friendly outdoor seating (with fire pit in winter) and fast service. A crepe is a full meal here, and comes in an easy-to-carry paper cone. Best ‘street food’ in Breck, hands down.

Giampietro Pasta and Pizza:

This casual, small dining establishment at 600 South Park comes personally recommended by a Breck local with kids of her own. Get calzones large enough to split, and mom and dad, check out the tequila menu.

Downstairs at Eric’s:

Eric’s has pub-style food with a large arcade area for kids. Perfect for holing away on a chilly winter evening, it’s easy to lose track of time at Eric’s!

Without the kids:

Twist:

This foodie heaven at 200 South Ridge offers a modern take on comfort food. We had a seasonal salad with a beet and goat cheese ravioli, but other menu offerings included a meatloaf, a mac and cheese, and a kabob. The menu here changes four times a year, and Chef Matt Fackler personally sources ingredients, picking the best of the best, whether they come locally or from further afield.

Modis:

Best cocktails in town! Modis’ mixologists create one-of-a-kind craft cocktails that pair wonderfully with their dinners. We went at happy hour (3 pm to 6 pm during our visit) and sat up on the rooftop deck. The lettuce wraps and sliders are divine! Find Modis at 113 South Main.

Breakfast in Breck:

Cuppa Joe:

Located at 118 South Ridge, Cuppa Joe is a local institution. Arguably, they serve the best coffee in town, but don’t leave without getting one of their massive breakfast burritos or a granola bowl.

Amazing Grace Natural Foods:

Find Amazing Grace tucked away in a friendly older house at 213 Lincoln. Sit on the back deck in summer, or duck inside for great breakfast sandwiches and egg dishes made with only quality natural ingredients.

Where do you like to eat in Breckenridge? Favorite foods on the mountain? Let us know!

Grown-up Getaway: What to do in Breckenridge in fall

October 18, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Why would you go to Breckenridge in fall? As one local resident, mountain bike pro, and chef put it, “Why wouldn’t you?” Autumn is a special time in this Colorado mountain town.

When I arrived in mid-September, I half-expected a ghost town: after all, Breck is known for skiing. Instead, I found a town alive with a quiet, happy hum of activity: tourists and locals alike were enjoying the fall weather while hiking, biking, and enjoying special events only found in Breck in fall. Here’s what to do with a weekend getaway with or without the kids:

Go hiking:

Leaf peeping is at its peak in September! For a challenging hike, head up Spruce Creek Road (just a few miles out of town off Hwy 9) and park at Spruce Creek Trailhead. The Spruce Creek Trail takes hikers through alpine forests for just over two miles, then connects with the Mohawk Lakes Trail. This final 1.7 mile section gets steep, past snow melt waterfalls and the remains of mining structures en route to Lower and Upper Mohawk lakes…well worth the effort. Look for mountain goats and plenty of fall color on the slopes opposite.

Need more ideas for local hikes or want to hike with an expert? Contact CBST Adventures in town and go with a pro!

Get a massage:

While in Breck, I had the best massage of my life at Harmony Health Massage and Wellness Spa. What made it so special? Owner and massage therapist Inanna Hall, who took on the task of getting travel day stress out of my shoulders and neck from a holistic, almost spiritual approach. Her philosophy is to approach any massage from an intuitive angle, and it showed. I had one of her synergy massages, and added a session with oxygen for only $30. This is a smart thing to do while adjusting to Breckenridge’s high altitude.

Get on a mountain bike:

There’s more mountain biking in and around Breckenridge than you’ll know what to do with. Pick up a hiking and biking trail map when you arrive, and use the universal green (easy), blue (intermediate), and black (expert) color coding to pick your routes. Most of the marked trails around town are single or double track, though dirt roads can be tacked on for good measure. As a beginner-intermediate mountain biker, these are the trails I tackled:

Lower Flume: Access the Lower Flume trail directly from town via the recreational bike path (more on that below). From the Breckenridge Recreation Center, follow the path out of town to where it connects with Lower Flume. Or, follow Main Street down to the 7-Eleven, turn right, and access from the recycling center.
Betty’s Trail: Find this intermediate trail right off Reiling Road. It’s just under one mile, and parallels the road most of the way (you won’t get disoriented). While it goes up and down, it’s not too rocky, though you’ll want to take care on the sharp turns.
Turk’s Trail and Reiling Drudge Trail: Further up Reiling, a parking lot offers access to a wider network of trails, including intermediate Turk’s and easy (and short) Reiling Drudge. Turk’s has quite the incline and tends to be rocky, but intermediate to advanced riders will love that it connects to more in the blue category, or can be looped with easy B&B.The Reiling Drudge Trail is fun because of the historical plaques marking remnants of mining history in the area.
XLOU8: My favorite intermediate trail I experienced, XLOU8 can be accessed from the same Reiling Drudge parking lot, and connects to Minnie Mine trail. It’s up and down, fairly free of rocks, and has an interesting mine to ride past.
Pence Miller: This intermediate trail can be accessed directly from Mountain Thunder Lodge via a short access trail. It winds above the resort area at the bottom section of the ski runs.

Pick up a mountain bike to rent for the day or multiple days at Avalanche Sports, located on North Main. They’ll give you a helmet, which is essential. Also bring water, a snack, and a layer or two for any ride. While it’s easy to return back to town fairly quickly from most easy and intermediate trails, it’s still good to be prepared for any weather. Find trail maps here.

Not sure you want to mountain bike? Take the recreational bike path through town instead. This paved path runs almost to Keystone!

Take a distillery tour:

The Breckenridge Distillery has a tasting room on Main Street, but also a full factory tour offered at their distillery on Airport Road. This tour is fascinating…and yes, it includes samples. Each tour is 30 minutes, and takes guests from a tasting area to the distilling rooms and barreling rooms. Our tour guide knew the business inside-out, and answered all our questions relating to both the distilling process and the variety of spirits created (which include vodka, bourbon whiskey, bitters, and seasonal specialties). Tours are free! Must be 21 or over.

Stroll around town:

Main Street runs from the ski resort village all the way down to the far end of town, and is chock full of great dining and shopping. And no, it’s not dead in the fall. Instead, it’s intimate, with locals emerging after a busy tourist summer season. Check out the shops, eat a crepe at Crepes a la Cart, grab a craft cocktail at Modis, and just take in the scene. While walking downtown, consider taking a historic walking tour from the Breckenridge Heritage Alliance.

Need dining recs? We have them!

Take in the Breck Film Fest:

The Breck Film Fest takes over town one week every September, and is a fun opportunity to see Hollywood in the mountains. Come for opening night, and grab affordable tickets to the opening show or opening night party. We were lucky enough to see the feature film for the festival’s Adventure Reel, Snowman. The atmosphere is relaxed, casual, and ultra-cool.

What do you like to do in Breckenridge? In what season?

Where to hike in Breckenridge with kids

October 15, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Think Breckenridge, Colorado is only a winter ski destination? No way! This mountain town is a great pick for summer and fall travel as well, offering historical significance, museums and culture, great dining, and, our personal favorite, excellent hiking for families.

When families arrive in Breck, they’ll find maps with literally dozens of hiking trails accessible right from town. Many of these hikes will include mining history built in, either the form of signage explaining historical significance or historical structures or mining equipment that remains behind. Here’s where to hike in Breckenridge in multiple categories:

Easy hikes:

Burro Trail: Accessed directly in town, the Burro Trail has a gentle grade (it was literally the trail burros used to haul gear). The first half mile is easy-breezy, perfect for young kids, and then it keeps going for miles, all the way out of town to high elevations. Families can connect to the Spruce Creek Trail and Wheeler Trail further afield.
Sawmill Creek: This 1.5 mile loop starts just below and west of Snowflake Lift, which is close to Four O’Clock Road and Kings Crown Road. It has minimal altitude gain, and there’s plenty of shade along the way. The trail leads up to a beautiful reservoir: bring a picnic lunch!
Reiling Drudge Trail: This trail, located at the top of Reiling Road, connects to several top-notch mountain biking trails. It’s multi-use, but an easy, short hike to the Reiling Drudge. This remnant from the mining era is impressively intact, and shows how this type of mining impacted the environment (you can see the piles of rock and ore still left behind, though the scenery is still very pretty). Historical markers tell hikers more about the site. If you want a longer hike, continue from the drudge trail to the Minnie Mine Trail. Here, you’ll see more plaques and remains of mining buildings.

Kids don’t want to hike? Head to River Walk Park, where kids can wade in the Blue River in summer and fall and play on the playground in all seasons.

Harder hikes:

Mohawk Lakes: This series of alpine lakes can be tackled in an eight mile loop, or families can simply hike to the first few. From the trailhead, it’s just over three miles to Lower Mohawk, which sits in a bowl with Upper Mohawk just out of sight above it. They’re followed by several more lakes along a chain. The path can be steep at times, but the way is broken up by lots to look at: kids will love the historic mining remnants still cluttering the landscape, and snow melt waterfalls such as Continental Falls. Get to the trailhead by heading out Hwy 9 and turning right on Spruce Creek Road. Park at the trailhead 1.2 miles up.
Bakers Tank Loop: While most of this five mile loop trail is intermediate, there are a few climbs to be had. The trail follows an historic railroad line and has Western mountain views. Start at the Bakers Tank Trailhead on Boreas Pass Road. The first three miles are along Boreas Pass Road, heading south.
Black Powder Pass: At 3.4 miles (roundtrip) with an elevation gain, this hike is solidly in the intermediate range. From Boreas Pass Road, go up to the top of Boreas Pass, and take the trail just before the Section House. Families get above the tree line without a long hike, but remember, you’ll be at over 12,000 feet, so take your time. Look for views of the Tenmile Range.

Hardest hike:

Crystal Lakes: Get above the tree line hiking to the Crystal Lakes. These small, high alpine lakes sit at over 11,000 feet, and the way is very steep in places, and mostly exposed. Access these lakes from the Burro Trail or drive partway up Spruce Creek Road or Crystal Lake Road (4×4 driving essential). Look for picas (like small rabbits that make a high pitched call) and mountain goats.

Tip: Want to get a taste of mining history in the area without hiking to it? Head to the Country Boy Mine, where kids can go inside mine shafts and pan for gold. This historical site has very good, though realistic, tours. Young kids may be frightened when the lights are turned off and hydraulic machinery is turned on to stimulate how it would have felt and sounded like in the mine in bygone eras.

Note: No matter where you hike in Breckenridge, you’ll feel the significant elevation. Get tips on dealing with high altitude!

Have you hiked in Breckenridge? Where do you recommend?

Tips for Rocky Mountain National Park with kids

July 21, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Rocky Mountain National Park is one of the United States’ premier family destinations, a jewel in the national park crown. In the summertime, the weather is beautiful, the scenery spectacular, and the opportunity to interact with nature unparalleled. Here are some things to know to help you make the most out of visiting with your kids.

Tips for Rocky Mountain National Park with kids:

West side vs. east side:

Experts say the west side of the park (accessed via Grand Lake) is less crowded than the east side (accessed via Estes Park). However, our visit was based in Estes, so this post focuses on the east side of the park.

Be prepared:

It storms somewhere in the mountains every afternoon, and even in the valleys, the weather is very cool in the mornings and evenings. Dress in layers. Wear long pants. Hiking boots really do make a difference on the uneven terrain. Use sunscreen and bug spray, and consider investing in rain ponchos.

Trail Ridge Road:

This 48-mile drive from Estes Park to Grand Lake is an all-day adventure that climbs several thousand feet through the tree line and into the arctic tundra. Along the route you’ll find countless amazing overlooks and a handful of hiking trails, as well as the Alpine Visitors Center. Trail Ridge Road can be a great experience, but be aware that altitude sickness is a real thing. Take it slow so everyone has time to adjust, and drink lots of water.

Don’t miss out on ranger-led hikes and programs:

You can learn about stars, wildlife, ecology, and more. Schedules are available in the visitors centers. The junior ranger program is a great way to get the kids invested in the park system. Start early in your visit to give your kids plenty of time to complete the activities.

There’s a reason why the popular hikes are popular:

Many of the hiking trails in RMNP are long, and many of the shorter ones are very steep. So if your family is too young for long or steep hikes, you will be part of the throngs visiting a relatively small number of trails. Based on our experiences, I have two suggestions:

First, get up early—really early. Many of the family-friendly hikes start at Bear Lake, which is a significant drive from Estes, and the parking lot fills early. Have everything prepped the night before; go to bed early and get up at 4:30 or 5 to beat the crowds. Afternoon naps are our friends.

Second, don’t view rain as an automatic death knell to hiking. Afternoon rainstorms often pass quickly. We arrived at the Cub Lake trailhead at the start of a pop-up storm. We waited out the worst of it in the van but then donned rain ponchos and headed out. Twenty minutes later, the sun was out. Two days later we started for Alberta Falls in an intermittent drizzle, and we had the trail almost to ourselves. With ballcaps beneath rain ponchos, we didn’t really get wet at all. You might think you’re sacrificing scenery, but there is a different beauty in hiking amid the clouds. It was well worth the effort. (Caveat: lightning is a different story. As with lightning anywhere, you want to be cautious.)

Hiking with young children:

It is possible to take a stroller on some of the trails at RMNP, but in most cases your best bet is backpack carriers. No need to buy one; they’re available for rent in downtown Estes Park.

If your kids are beyond a backpack, you’ll need to plan carefully. Prep your kids in advance for longer, more strenuous hikes—not just physically, but mentally. My sister managed to get her 4-year-old daughter to Emerald Lake, a 3.6-mile round trip with an elevation gain of 605 feet, by having her pretend she was Wonder Woman.

Park amenities:

Expect to be out of cell service most of the time you’re in the park.
Stay on top of the bathroom situation. Staying well hydrated is part of an enjoyable visit at high altitudes, so you also have to stay on top the need for bathrooms. There are facilities at many trail heads, but not all.
The visitors’ centers have clean restrooms and information desks, as well as a range of services including ranger-led programs, gift shops, and educational displays.
The national park service runs shuttle buses in the Bear Lake Road Corridor late May through early October. The buses are free, but park entrance fee is required for the Hiker Shuttle, which boards outside the park. Using the buses helps traffic flow and allows you to enjoy the scenery.

It takes longer than you think it will:

Traffic through Estes Park gets backed up. The lines at the entrance stations get backed up. Construction in the park causes traffic backup. And hiking at altitude is slower and more strenuous than you might expect. Pack snacks or lunch and plenty of water, and take lots of breaks.

Fees:

Entry fees for Rocky Mountain National Park are very modest at $20 per vehicle for one day or $30 for 7 days. Fees can also be paid per person. You can purchase passes ahead of time online.

Rocky Mountain National Park is located just under two hours west of Denver, Co. Parking and services provided by the national park service are free, although a limited number of adventure outfitters are permitted to operate within the national park.

Our family was offered a media pass to RMNP by Visit Estes Park. My enthusiasm for this amazing place, however, long predates this visit.

Flyover country road trip: Fun in flyover country

June 7, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

I’m very excited to share that long-time Pit Stops for Kids contributor Kathleen Basi, a proud lifelong resident of “flyover country,” released a road-trip-themed novel this spring, and agreed to share a few places she uncovered in her research. If you’re on a flyover country road trip with kids this summer, check out one or two of these fun stops along the way!

1. Silver Beach Carousel

Online: https://www.silverbeachcarousel.com/2016-06-15-14-44-41/test-menu-item
Where: St. Joseph, Michigan
What: A must-stop if you’re trekking northward with little ones (or not-so-little ones)! Our family discovered this by accident when we got off the highway to let the kids see the Great Lakes for the first time. We were looking for a beach, and we got that–but we also got a carousel and the best spray park we’ve ever seen. In fact, with the additional attractions here, this could turn into much more than a stop along the way!

2. “Castle Park”

Online: https://www.pitstopsforkids.com/southern-illinois-pit-stop-jeremy-rochman-memorial-park/
Where: Carbondale, Illinois
What: If you have young (or even not-so-young) children, plan several hours to let them enjoy this amazing, Dungeons & Dragons-themed park. A dragon big enough to climb on, a castle with thrones, dungeons and secret passages, and countless surprises hidden in the trees and shrubs.

3. Cahokia Mounds (featured in A Song For The Road)

Online: https://cahokiamounds.org/
Where: Collinsville, Illinois (just outside St. Louis)
What: an active archaeological site and 2000+-acre preserve featuring a collection of Native American mounds, including Monks Mound, with a base roughly the same size as the base of the Great Pyramid at Giza. There’s also a top-notch interpretive center.

4. Future birthplace of James T. Kirk

Online: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g38341-d1985332-Reviews-Future_Birthplace_of_James_T_Kirk-Riverside_Iowa.html

Where: Riverside, Iowa
What: Features a statue of the intrepid captain in the park, a model of the Starship Enterprise, and a store-museum.

5. Corn Palace

Online: https://cornpalace.com/
Where: Mitchell, South Dakota
What: a multipurpose arena with domed towers, decorated on the outside by murals made of corn, other grains, and grasses grown in South Dakota. It is redesigned every year, and if you come at the right time you could even see the new mural under construction.

Flyover country road trip: Nine stops you won't want to miss along the road.

6. Gunfighter Wax Museum

Online: http://www.teachershallfamedodgecityks.org/wax-museum.html
Where: Dodge City, KS
What: Housed inside the Kansas Teachers’ Hall of Fame, the name says it all. See life-sized figures of Wyatt Earp, Sitting Bull, Calamity Jane, and more.

7. Taos Pueblo

Online: http://www.fodors.com/news/photos/20-us-places-to-see-before-you-die#!7-taos-pueblo
Where: Taos, New Mexico
What: This UNESCO World Heritage site consists of mud-and-straw adobes that have been occupied by Native Americans for almost a thousand years. Get a glimpse of what life was like when the Spanish first encountered them in the 16th century.

8. UFO Watchtower (featured in A Song For The Road)

Online: https://www.mycoloradoparks.com/road-trips/road-trip-stops/colorado-places/ufo-watchtower-colorado/Where: Hooper, Co.
What: a viewing platform, gift shop, and campground in the San Luis Valley, one of the premier UFO-sighting regions. Visitors can stay up all night and watch for mysterious lights in the sky. There’s also a “healing garden” which reportedly has otherworldly connections.

9. Craters of the Moon

Online: https://www.nps.gov/crmo/index.htm
Where: Central Idaho
What: a national monument centered around a volcanic debris field in Idaho’s Snake River Plain. There are paved trails and a scenic drive which allow you to see lava tubes, rifts, cones, and many other volcanic features.

Breckenridge winter vacation tips

March 5, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

I am lucky enough that I have now spent time in and around Breckenridge, Colorado in summer, fall, and winter. All are wonderful times to visit with their own merits, but winter certainly is a popular choice. With a world-class ski resort and magical winter atmosphere comes an increase in visitors and potentially challenging driving conditions. Here’s what you need to know to have an amazing winter Breckenridge vacation, from dining recommendations to ski tips.

Stay in a condo within walking distance of everything.

The first of our Breckenridge winter vacation tips is probably the biggest. The good news: staying within easy distance of both the slopes and the town is easy to do. Because Breckenridge spans five peaks with lifts touching down in locations across the town, most lodging along South and North Park Avenue, Village Road, and Ski Hill Road will be ski-in, ski-out, or close to it.

We stayed in this unit at One Breckenridge Place, managed by Great Western Lodging. We were about two blocks from the Quicksilver Lift at Peak 9, and one block from Main Street. The unit is a three-bedroom, with lots of room to spread out, cook some of our own meals, and do laundry. The condo village has access to a year-round pool and hot tub complex, which is just 100 yards from the door. Unfortunately, during our stay, the hot tubs were too dirty to use, but the pool was heated. I recommend paying a bit more for a unit at One Breckenridge Place with a private hot tub, which is located on the back deck.

Plan DEN-Breck shuttle trips carefully.

If you take a shuttle service such as Colorado Mountain Express from Denver International to Breckenridge (and we recommend this if you don’t want to hassle with a rental car or driving in wintery conditions), try your best to avoid shuttle times between 4 pm and 6 pm on Friday nights. Traffic is very heavy to the mountains on Friday afternoons, and you can expect your trip to take twice the standard 1.5 hour time. Sometimes, of course, this can’t be avoided…on our last trip, we had to travel on Friday, and had no choice but to get a 4:30 shuttle. Still, it helps to be aware and set expectations. Make sure everyone has water and has eaten a snack before departure.

Going home, if the weather is bad, consider calling your shuttle service to book an earlier departure back to DEN. We learned that CME aims to give travelers a four hour window (two to get back to DEN, with two hours buffer before flight). However, the drive can sometimes take as long as three hours or more in snow storms, and it’s generally up to you to ask for a new departure time.

Get take out for affordable meals.

When you’re too tired to go out to eat, order the ‘pasta bucket’ from Fattys. This local favorite pizza place on Ridge Street offers a take out option that feeds the whole family for about half what it would cost to eat out. Pasta buckets are $30 (you pick your sauce and pasta choice), and comes with rolls and butter. You can add a salad bucket for $20. For $50, we fed our crew of five, and had enough left-overs for lunch the next day. Fattys says their buckets serve 4-5, but we believe it’s closer to 6-8 (and we have teens who eat a lot!).

Eat lunch early or late on the mountain.

When skiing Breckenridge, avoid the base areas between 12 pm and 1 pm, opting to break for lunch at an upper mountain lodge instead. Crowds will be far thinner, and lift lines shorter. Use the Breckenridge Mountain app to see lift line wait times at a glance. We really enjoyed eating quick meals at Vista Haus on Peak 8 and The Overlook on Peak 9.

Use Ski Butlers.

Use Ski Butlers for any gear rentals. If your family owns skis, boards, and boots, and you’ll be skiing or riding for more than a few days, it’s usually more economical to check ski gear on the plane than to rent for multiple days. (Tip: Alaska Airlines allows free boot bag checked luggage with a ski bag.)

However, if you don’t own your own gear, use Ski Butlers. It’s easy to order your rentals online before your trip, and once you arrive, Ski Butlers brings your rentals to your condo or hotel room. The ‘butler’ fits you there, and even offers a direct line for any problems that may arise. We had an issue with one snowboard (the binding wasn’t set to our liking), and Ski Butlers came out the same evening and fixed the problem at our condo immediately. We were very pleased with their attention to detail and willingness to do what it took to ensure we were happy with our gear.

Beware of altitude sickness.

Don’t take the altitude lightly! See our post on avoiding altitude sickness, and be sure to drink lots of water before and during your trip to Breckenridge. I feel symptoms of altitude sickness with every trip, despite taking precautions. Know that one symptom can be insomnia…don’t be surprised if kids and adults have a hard time sleeping at first. Get to bed early, drink fluids, and avoid caffeine and alcohol at least on your first few nights.

Check for seasonal events and festivals.

We happened to time our latest visit to Breckenridge with the annual International Snow Sculpture championships, which meant we could view amazing snow sculptures created by teams across the world.

View during the evenings to see the finished sculptures lit up starting the day of the judging. There’s a people’s choice type of award as well, so be sure to pick your favorite and ‘vote’ with a dollar. Look for additional activities in and around the Riverwalk Center by the Blue River, where the sculptures are located.

Don’t forget to check out the arts district.

Located between Main Street and Ridge Street, Breckenridge’s art district is located in repurposed small buildings with pedestrian friendly walkways. You’ll find all manner of artisans here, and can usually watch them work in addition to buying in the galleries. Kids enjoy this too!

Think ahead before heading out to dinner.

Remember that many family-friendly dining options in Breckenridge do not take reservations. Instead, put your name in early, and use the time before your table is ready to shop along Main Street or check out the small history museum at the Welcome Center (along the Blue River near RiverWalk Center). Some restaurants, including one of our favorites, Downstairs at Eric’s, uses an app to tell you when your name is called. Just give them your phone number and you’ll know how many parties are ahead of you in line. Tip: for the best burgers in town, head down Main to the north end to Canteen. Expect big portions!

Don’t forget snow play gear!

Bring an extra set of gloves or mittens and a waterproof pair of snow boots for each family member, in addition to what you wear if you ski or snowboard. Exploring the village of Breckenridge is part of the charm of a vacation here, but kids will definitely get snowy on even the simplest walk down Main Street. They’ll find places to slide down hills and have snowball fights!

Disclosure: Our stay at One Breckenridge Place and our transportation on CME were provided complimentarily, for the purpose of review.

Guide to skiing Breckenridge with teens (by teens)

January 20, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Breckenridge Mountain is a huge ski resort with something for absolutely every type of skier and rider. On our latest trip, we went with our teens and pre-teen, who are all expert skiers and riders. I thought I’d let them tell readers their favorite places on the mountain from their perspective. If you have older kids and teens who like steeps and deeps, this is the post to read!

Note to parents with beginning skiers and riders: Breckenridge’s ski school is among the best we’ve seen, and entire sections of the resort are devoted to green and blue (beginner and intermediate) runs. While this is not the ‘Breck’ we’re covering in this post, learners will be right at home!

Guide to skiing Breckenridge, according to kids who like moguls, trees, and bowls:

The bowls above the tree line are amazing, but only if conditions are right. On windy days or when they’re not open, due to avalanche control, head into the trees! Our favorite tree skiing at Breck is probably the Windows off Peak 9. From the Mercury SuperChair or the E Chair, take the trail to Window 1 and 2, and ski through trees into our favorite place in all of Breck: the ravine bordering a creek! There are winding trails, jumps, and bumps here and it goes on for ages!

There is a lot of out-of-boundary terrain at Breck, and there are gates to access these areas in designated spots. Don’t duck the rope! At the top of Peak 9, there’s a gate where you can hike for about 20 minutes to access some fun stuff, but remember: you have to have a pack, beacon, and shovel with you (and a friend). Our parents’ rule is that we have to take an avalanche safety course before they’ll buy us beacons, so we had to skip this spot.

But: if you still want to hike to great terrain, there are places to do this without leaving the resort boundary. If Imperial chair is not running, we like to hike from Peak 9 at the top of E Chair to the Back 9. The hike is long and hard (about 20 minutes, but it feels longer and you’ll get sweaty) but then you get to ski down your choice of double blacks that haven’t been skied out. After the open bowls, you’ll end up in the same creek run from above.

For lots of steep, mogul runs, head to Peak 10. This was our mom’s favorite peak. Go left at the top of Falcon SuperChair, and try Black Hawk or Dark Rider (double black diamonds).

Peak 7 is an intermediate hill, but at the top is lots of good stuff you can access if Imperial is open. We also liked 6 Chair, which had more moguls and above-tree stuff, on the side of Peak 8.

There are several terrain parks, but be warned: the large and medium ones are HUGE! We like terrain parks but had to stay on the small one…which was like our medium one at home! You can find the small one on Peak 9, called the Highway.

If you like bowls with plenty of spots to find trees to run through, get yourself to the T Bar. Riding the T Bar can be tricky at first, but just watch the people ahead of you, and don’t forget to stay standing…you don’t sit on the T. It’s harder to ride for snowboarders than skiers. When snowboarding, we place the T closer to our hip than our behinds. Riding the T Bar is entertaining, too, because about 1 in 10 people fall off.

Even if you are a very good skier, Breck’s kid zones are a lot of fun. Look for the small terrain trails throughout the family zones and intermediate runs. We found one with a mock mine tunnel to ski through and one with an ore bucket. It’s just lots of fun.

Disclosure: We skied and rode Breck as guests of the resort, in order to report back on where to go for the best runs. All opinions are our own!

Vail luxury ski hotel: Sonnenalp hotel review

December 16, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

I have been lucky enough to stay in many luxury ski hotel properties, from Whistler to Tahoe to points east. My stay at The Sonnenalp, a Leading Hotels of the World property in Vail, Colorado, met the expectations that properties like the Fairmont or the Ritz Carlton had set for me, but also exceeded those expectations in subtle ways.

What do I mean by this? The Sonnenalp Hotel, which is a true family-owned property, in the same family for four generations, has a very understated and timeless style of luxury and service. From the moment you drive into the porte-cochère and your ski gear is whisked effortlessly away by the ski concierge team to the simple yet thoughtful texts sent by the front desk staff, inquiring how your stay is going and whether there is anything they can do for you, at The Sonnenalp, it’s all about quietly and efficiently serving, while providing a timeless and lovely place to call home in the heart of Vail.

While beautiful, the Sonnenalp exhibits a cozy Bavarian elegance, not a flashy or sleek luxury vibe. Inside, the long halls with meandering staircases with wooden handrails call to mind a European ski chalet; in fact, in some parts of the hotel, I truly would mistake my location for the Alps. All the guest spaces of the hotel, from the small front lobby to the expansive King’s Club lounge (arguably the heart of the hotel) exhibit an understated but sophisticated elegance. You’d never make the mistake that you were in a budget hotel, by any means, but you are also spared any sort of stuffy or snooty ambiance.

Sonnenalp rooms:

Ever stayed at a five-star, very expensive property and looked around your hotel room and noted you were actually lacking a lot of useful items, like a fridge, table, or microwave? The Sonnenalp has 112 suites to its 15 rooms, with a focus on comfort. I stayed in one of their two-level mountain suites, which was laid out with a living room and wet bar space downstairs (with fireplace) and two bedrooms upstairs, with over 1300 square feet total space. Be sure to ask for a few room fans upon check-in, as we found the upstairs to get stuffy. I appreciated having a Nespresso machine, a minibar, a second fridge for storing our own things, a microwave, and two and a half bathrooms.

We enjoyed turndown service, lovely robes for use in the room and at the spa area, and eco-friendly bath amenities. The only thing I found missing: access to a washer and dryer, or even just a dryer, in the suites. When skiing with a family, a dryer is huge.

Sonnenalp European spa:

At The Sonnenalp, the European spa concept means that in addition to their luxurious spa, most of the spa’s 10,000 square feet is accessible for all guests, including children. What this looks like: when you enter the spa area, you are not stopped at a sign-in desk (though they have one). Instead, you’re invited into the large space that houses a 360 degree fireplace with sunken seating, a full bar (with oxygen bar), and the indoor pool and hot tub. Off of this room are the men’s and women’s locker rooms, sauna, steam rooms, and fitness center…open to everyone (though children under 16 are not allowed in the back locker rooms or fitness center of the spa). Out glass doors by the pool, the outdoor section of the pool and two additional outdoor hot tubs await.

While kids need to be respectfully quiet in this greater spa area, they are welcome, and what results is a very cozy, warm space for families to gather apres-ski or anytime. For adults, complementary yoga classes are held here almost daily, as well as personal training services. While the fitness center is not large, it has the cardio and weight training equipment needed.

While I love that most of the spa can be appreciated by everyone, I do recommend booking at least one spa treatment during your stay. My aromatherapy massage was one of the best I’ve ever had, made even more relaxing in the knowledge that the rest of my group could be having fun in the pools and hot tubs. A poolside/spa-side menu is available (though outdoor pool deck service is seasonal).

Sonnenalp dining:

The Sonnenalp has multiple restaurants onsite, and of course, you’re in the heart of the Vail village, so many additional restaurants are within walking distance. As noted above, the cozy King’s Club, with bar, a ‘living room’ type space, and even a library, is the place to start your evening with a drink during their happy hour. It’s also the place to return later in the evening for live music. A must do is Swiss Chalet, Sonnenalp’s nod to Alpine cuisine, with fondue and raclette, and for the most casual dining option, head to Bully Ranch, the hotel’s Western-themed restaurant (where you’ll instantly feel like you’re in Wyoming, not Germany).

While Sonnenalp may be best known for Swiss Chalet’s fondue dinner, their breakfast buffet, held daily at Ludwig’s, is in danger of outshining it all. There’s more than any one person could possibly eat at this gourmet buffet of hot dishes, granolas, fresh fruits, berries, cheese spreads, bagels and lox, smoked salmon, artisan breads, and more. The buffet is $35 per person (or $23 for the continental version), but don’t gasp just yet: with most reservations, it can be included in the cost of the stay as an add-on (well worth it). If you don’t add the buffet on and don’t want to pay that price, there is also an a la carte menu, as well as room service. By no means is Sonnenalp dining inexpensive, but it is part of the overall experience of the hotel.

Sonnenalp activities:

The hotel has a kids’ club, which is complementary with activities planned for kids daily, with drop-in options. At the time of my visit, the club was open from 4 pm to 6 pm, which was great: parents can enjoy happy hour while the kids are busy. This service is for kids three and up who are potty trained, but even if you have a younger one, stop by for a complementary box of sanitized toys to take back to your room. For older kids, there’s a game room adjacent. Get always updated kids’ club information.

The planned activities for adults, beyond the spa and fitness offerings, such as the snowshoeing treks aforementioned, were offered six days a week during my visit. Of course, a main activity for parents is simply relaxing. I recommend sitting in the library with one of their famous mudslides.

If visiting in winter, most families plan to ski. Here’s how the ski concierge services work at Sonnenalp:

Because the hotel is about three blocks from Gondola One (where you can upload for Vail skiing), Sonnenalp guests have access to nearby Gorsuch Ski Cafe. The ski concierge team will transport your gear there upon your arrival to the hotel. Guests walk the few blocks in comfortable winter boots, instead of ski boots, and grab their gear from the concierge there. The space has ample room for getting on gear and storing skis and boards. You can also apply sunscreen here and there’s seating for 40-50.

For summer season guests, Sonnenalp has their own private golf course, with a much large fitness center and pool complex, as well as on-site dining, Harvest. The fitness center and Harvest are actually open year-round, and shuttles can be arranged from the hotel. There is a daily fee for golf, but I was assured hotel guests have use of the fitness area complementarily.

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Sonnenalp.

Disclosure: I stayed at Sonnenalp as a guest of the hotel, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.

Keystone lodging review: The Springs at River Run Village

March 7, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

During or latest winter Keystone ski trip with kids, we stayed in a two-bedroom condo in River Run’s The Springs. At the end of our trip, my nine-year-old declared it the best ski lodging he’d experienced. Why did he rate it above other ski-in, ski-out resort lodging? Three reasons: 1. the Springs pool, 2. the proximity to the River Run Gondola, and 3. the fact that it’s surrounded by woods.

The Springs is located at the far end of River Run Village, just far enough away from ‘village life’ to be tranquil (with plenty of snow to play in around the building), but close enough that you’re literally two minutes from dining and lifts. I loved the decor of the building, which is accented with lovely wall displays of wildlife, aspen trees, and other nature scenes. The lobby of The Springs features a bubbling creek, which flows outside to the pool area and funnels into the pool slide. The entire building is open, bright, and peaceful.

Amenities:

Our two-bedroom unit included a master bedroom with king bed and bathroom with jacuzzi tub and shower (plus a vanity with two sinks), a second bedroom with queen bed and bathroom with shower and tub, a full kitchen (with full-sized appliances), a roomy living space with couch and fireplace, and an entry with lots of hooks for coats and space for ski boots. We had three flat-sceen TVs in the unit, a large balcony, and lovely wooded views. We wished we had a washer and dryer in our unit; this may have been the only thing lacking.

The kitchen was well-stocked with plates, utensils, pots and pans, and the like. Bring your own coffee (though there is a coffee-maker and filters), plus items such as ziplock bags. Free wifi is in all rooms. Your unit comes with a parking pass for the heated underground garage, should you need it, and all units are assigned a ski locker. From the locker, it’s a one-minute walk to the River Run Gondola.

Located in the lobby is a media room set up to watch movies with stadium seating (first come, first served, though we never saw it used) and a nice toddler and preschool play room. There’s a pool table in the lobby, and space for board games or card games.

Pool and fitness center:

Yes, there’s a full fitness center at The Springs, though when I’m on a ski vacation, I get enough exercise on the slopes! Adjacent to the fitness center (and accessed from the lobby) is the outdoor pool complex. Included is a beautiful free-form heated pool with waterfall and small slide, plus a heated kids’ wading pool with fountains, and two hot tubs. One hot tub is designated as adults-only, but we found both hot tubs to get so crowded, we let the kids warm up where they liked (don’t tell). There’s plenty of seating with tables and lounge chairs in the pool area, plus a BBQ for communal use, though during our trip, it was much too cold outside to utilize either. We loved the gated entry at the back of the pool area, which leads directly into the parking area for the gondola and to the pedestrian bridge to the village; this made for a nice shortcut to and from The Springs.

Rates:

At the time of our visit, a two-bedroom unit was listed for $394 a night (one bedroom condos, which would easily house a family of four were $284). Shop around between River Run lodging options: nearly all buildings have some sort of pool amenity (though not all have slides) and all are in walking distance of the slopes.

Location within Keystone:

River Run Village is definitely our pick among Keystone lodging locations: kids have Kidtopia, the ice rink, the gondola and slopes, and rentals within walking distance, as well as dining options galore. The only time we needed to utilize the free Village to Village Shuttle was to go to Mountain House for Kamp Keystone and Lakeside Village for lake ice skating at the Adventure Center.

Directions:

From Denver, travel west on Interstate 70. Exit at the Silverthorne/Dillon exit #205. At the end of the exit ramp turn left (East) at the stop light onto Highway 6. Travel 6.2 miles into Keystone Resort.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we enjoyed a complimentary stay at The Springs for the purpose of review. Comped stays make it possible for us to provide readers with accurate reviews of kid-friendly properties.