Tahoe with kids: Granlibakken Ski and Sledding Hill

January 31, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Looking to explore off the beaten tourist path in Tahoe with kids? Granlibakken is traditional Tahoe at its most authentic: this old-school resort boosts lodge rooms, condos, sledding, a day spa, and ski learning on poma bar and rope tow-accessed terrain. In the summer, there’s a large treetop rope course and easy access to hiking trails and the lake shore.

Keep this lesser known resort top-of-mind if you are planning a multi-generational vacation to Tahoe or a family reunion because they have multiple lodging options that work for larger families or even wedding parties. All lodging guests enjoy a complimentary buffet breakfast each day, too.

We headed to Granlibakken for a morning of sledding. With four kids in our party, we weren’t keen to pay the hefty tubing prices at larger ski resorts, and didn’t have the option of finding our own sledding hills on Tahoe’s many sno parks (due to snow conditions). Granlibakken proved to be a perfect choice, with a large hill (with multiple routes down) and an organized hike-t0-sled path, plus plastic sledding disks to use. We started in the quaint warming hut, where we bought tickets for $12 per child, and headed outside to the hill. You can also rent snowshoes here or cross-country skis, and access either their own maintained nordic trail or more trails just over the hill.

Tip: Adults can watch for free of course, but should you want to go into the sledding area to help or just to take photos, you will need your own tickets.

It’s fine to bring your own sleds (just make sure they’re not metal), and prepare to spend about an hour or two here. If the snow conditions are good, kids may want to stay to play in the snow longer. In the lodge, you’ll find a counter-service dining option, where the hot chocolate flows and coffee is quite good. There’s a learning hill for kids on skis, with a rope tow, and one lift (poma bar accessed) for intermediate skiers and riders. Check for current lift ticket prices, as we only used the sledding area on our visit.

Date last visited:

December 2014

Distance from the interstate:

Located just outside Tahoe City, about 20 minutes from I-80 and just steps from CA-89.

Directions:

Turn left at the stop light in Tahoe City onto CA-89 S. Drive one-half mile to Granlibakken Road and turn right.

Where to stay on Kauai South Shore: Marriott’s Waiohai Beach Club

January 24, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Every time I visit a Marriott Vacation Club, I’m equally impressed. The Waiohai Beach Club is the fourth property I’ve seen, and won’t be my last. Why? While every Marriott Vacation Club is different, in order to fit into its setting geographically and culturally, core amenities and values remain consistent across the brand: roomy, family-friendly suites with kitchens and washer/dryers, above average customer service, and a focused effort on kid-friendly activities.

If you’re not familiar with Marriott Vacation Club, go here to read more. In a nutshell, this ‘arm’ of Marriott offers a timeshare-modeled ownership plan, but also welcomes nightly guests at a fantastic value. I recommend MVCs often, because for a reasonable rate, families get tons of room and the ability to make their own meals. While service is good, the properties never feel ‘snooty’.

Features specific to Waiohai Beach Club:

This property has the prettiest grounds I’ve seen at a Marriott Vacation Club. Located right on the ocean on the south side of Kauai, the eight buildings, or ‘hales’ nestle in a semi-circle, with the resort’s three pools and three hot tubs tucked amid beautiful landscaping between them.

The beach is the best I’ve seen for Hawaiian resorts, though families can find even better by venturing around the island by car. However, when you pick a resort over a vacation home or town living, it’s crucial the beach on-site delivers, as you’ll be spending the most time there. The beach at Waiohai Beach Club certainly does: the resort is adjacent to Poipu Beach, with several small natural coves perfect for different activities. There a very calm, reef-sheltered ‘keiki’ beach if you walk a few steps from the resort to the left, a nice snorkeling spot closer to the resort, then, directly out front, a sandy beach with waves perfect for boogie boarding. Further off-shore, expert surfers can be spotted (in season).

Since it’s only a few steps from your villa to the beach, it’s easy to spend the day hopping from beach to pools to villa, returning for meals if you desire. If you want to drive elsewhere, several other Poipu beaches are within a few miles, or the wonders of the North Shore await if you’re willing to put in an hour plus drive (do…it’s worth it).

Additional activities:

Marriott Vacation Club activities are always listed on a schedule you’re handed when you check-in, and are as extensive as on some cruise ships. In other words, if you want to be active, you can be. There are children’s activities daily, most of which are free.

New to Marriott Vacation Club is Club Thrive, which opened during my visit to Waiohai. This fitness program is much more than simply exercise. Four key elements of a healthy lifestyle and vacation are hit upon in every Thrive class: move, refuel, explore, and revive. The Thrive instructors are warm, energetic, and welcoming, and tell me their goals are to help guests try classes or exercises they may not have tried yet at home, and feel relaxed and rejuvenated during their trip. Thrive classes are offered daily Monday through Friday, and range from stretching/yoga classes to Zumba to nature walks. Some are ideal for the whole family, while others require the industry standard of 13 and up. During my visit, I tried a Thrive AquaFit class, Thrive walk, and Thrive stretching/rejuvenation class, and enjoyed them all. Thrive instructor Troy is so engaging and enthusiastic, MVC should make him the poster boy of the program!

On site are boogie board, snorkel, and SUP rentals, plus surf rentals and lessons. If your kids (or you) have not surfed before, I highly recommend a lesson to start them off. Lessons are $75 per person, and after that, board rentals are much less expensive. During our Hawaiian vacation, we had lessons, then rented boards for the kids for an extra day, so they could continue working on their own.

The snorkeling is excellent from the beach, so definitely plan on renting snorkels (at the time of my visit, it was $25/week for gear). There are also gear rental shops in Koloa, located only two minutes by car from the resort.

The concierge on site can recommend various other excursions across the island. Definitely stop by to check out the offerings…there is so much to do on Kauai! We saw whales (in March) directly from the resort, but spotted even more, and up closer, on a catamaran cruise with Holo Holo Charters, located not far from the south shore in Port Allen.

What to expect from your villa:

We stayed in a two-bedroom villa (remember, all rooms are villas at Marriott Vacation Club), which slept eight. Honestly, eight would have been pretty crowded, but six would have been no problem. There’s a full kitchen, already stocked with all the silverware, plates, cooking utensils, and pots and pans you’ll need. Do a grocery store run after arrival, and you’ll be all set!

The living space is connected to the kitchen in the center of the villa, and includes extra space in the form of the large balcony, with seating. There’s a full dining room table in addition, which seats eight. The living room space also has a large couch (which pulls out to a bed) and flat screen TV and DVD player.

The two bedrooms of the villa come off of the main room, and are spacious and light. We loved the natural tones used throughout, which fit the Hawaiian vibe throughout the resort. Each bedroom has a full bath attached, with tub and shower. In one bedroom, an additional couch pulls out to be a bed as well. Each villa also has a full washer and dryer…worth their weight in gold when traveling with kids!

Those extras that add up:

You know what I mean…in many luxury hotels, the room rate is just the beginning. Once you pay for wifi, parking, and dining, you’ve spent far more. At MVC, wifi is always free, and parking is either free or has a minimal cost. At Waiohai, it was $10/day. Coffee is resupplied in the villa daily.

Dining:

Most, if not all, MVCs focus on causal dining and in-villa eating, so they don’t have a formal dinner restaurant on-site. At Waiohai, the Honu Bar and Grill, located beachside, offers very nice fare in an outdoor setting. Pick up lunch here, or drinks and smoothies. It’s open for dinner as well until 7:30 pm at the time of our visit. The same causal grill fare is offered during dinner, with the additional of a nightly dinner special. When we visited on a Monday, the dinner special was grilled mahi mahi with a garlic butter and the traditional rice and macaroni salad of the Hawaiian plate lunch. It was delicious.

In addition to Honu, Waiohai has a marketplace, as do all MVCs I’ve visited, which offers grab-and-go sandwiches, wraps, and bento or rice bowls. They also had convenience food items like chicken tenders and hot dogs. Our kids didn’t like the chicken tenders, so I’d stick with the freshly prepared items. Also in the marketplace are grocery items, wine and beer, and snacks. This market will not replace a full grocery run elsewhere, but is perfect if you need some snacks, milk for your cereal, or more coffee. They also offer some basic breakfast plates, Starbucks coffee, and muffins and pastries in the mornings.

So would we stay here again? Absolutely. There are basically two lodging options when visiting Kauai: families can rent a vacation home, or stay in a resort. There are pros and cons to each, of course, but if you’ve chosen the latter, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better value in a beach-side resort than MVC. You’ll get more for your money here, and have the cost-saving conveniences of a rental home (the kitchen and laundry) combined with the fun and pampering of a resort.

Directions:

The Waiohai Beach Club is located at 2249 Poipu Road, Koloa. From the Lihue airport, it’s an easy 20 minute drive, following signage to Poipu.

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As we disclose whenever applicable, we stayed at Waiohai as guests of MVC, for the purpose of review.

A stay at Seattle’s Hyatt at Olive 8

January 12, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

I love finding new kid-friendly gems in destination cities! I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again: families don’t have to settle for cheap hotels in the suburbs while city touring. Family-friendly, downtown hotels do exist. Our latest find: the Hyatt at Olive 8. Located in the heart of Seattle’s downtown, the Olive 8 is just steps from the impressive convention center. One would assume this would mean the hotel is overrun with business travelers, but this is not so! We visited mid-week, and were still in the company of numerous family groups. My kids think this is due to their large indoor pool and whirlpool hot tub and their restaurant, Urbane’s, ‘For Kids, By Kids’ farm-fresh menu.

As the sliding glass doors open to usher you into the Olive 8’s lobby, the first thing you notice is the minimalist, glass and steel decor. I loved the ultra-modern layout of Olive 8: the lobby looks out on downtown from expansive glass panes, and the common areas are all open, with wide hallways and high ceilings. This less-is-more mentality extends to energy consumption: that the Olive 8 is the first LEEDS certified Seattle hotel.

In-room amenities:

In our room, our key cards turned on and off lights (to ensure they automatically turn off upon exiting), linens and towels are replaced on request, and the heating and air units are eco-friendly. Even the toilets offer two flushing options to reduce water usage, which the kids found delightful (and hilarious). We stayed in adjoining rooms as a family of five (and had plenty of room) and all rooms come equipped with mini-fridges (a staple!) and iPod docking stations (a very nice perk). The in-room coffee service was not half-bad, and I liked that Tazo teas were offered as well. My kids loved the thick Hyatt bathrobes, and I liked how many outlets I had to charge electronics. Wifi is available in-room for a fee.

Pool and Fitness Center:

We visited the Olive 8 on a cold December night. The kids jumped right in the pool, which is open later than most (until 10:30, open at 5:30 am), and my husband and I appreciated that the Hyatt StayFit gym (a staple of all Hyatts) is located adjacent. We could tag team a workout while the kids swam. The Olive 8 does have a spa, though we sadly didn’t have time to check it out.

Dining:

The Olive 8 has both a marketplace where families can buy snacks and staples, and a full restaurant, Urbane. We ate breakfast at Urbane at the suggestion of both hotel staff and locals. Urbane adapts Hyatt’s For Kids, By Kids menu, developed by kids and a young chef. While Urbane is by no means an economical breakfast choice for families, it does promise locally sourced, healthy options. The dining room echoed the rest of Olive 8’s elegant design, and the service was friendly.

While staying at Olive 8, you’re within walking distance of the Space Needle and Pacific Science Center, and right on metro lines to Pike’s Place Market and the waterfront. You’ll pay for your comfort and prime location: rates start at $152 for a single king room. But why not end each of your busy touring days with a swim and a warm soak, healthy food, and comfortable, eco-friendly digs?

Date last visited: December 2012

Room rates:

At the time of our visit, standard, king bedrooms started at $153 on non-holiday nights. We opted for two adjoining rooms with queen beds, and were comfortable as a family of five.

Directions:

The Olive 8 is located at 1635 8th Street, Seattle. From I-5, take Pike Street. The hotel is easily accessed from I-90, too.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced Hyatt at Olive 8 as guests of the hotel. While we appreciate this opportunity to share great hotel finds with our readers, it came with no expectation of a positive review.

Family Apres Ski at Whistler Village

January 10, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

After a full day of skiing or boarding, nothing is so satisfying as unbuckling your boots and shedding your coat to warm up amid the lively ambiance of fellow skiers and perhaps a live band. Add a cold brew or warm beverage, and you just might be in heaven. We’ve already told you where to eat on a budget at Whistler, but you don’t have to pass up the fun of apres ski drinks and appetizers, even if you do have a full kitchen at your Whistler home rental. Check out the following family-friendly apres ski at Whistler Village locations.

1. Mallard Lounge, Fairmont Chateau Whistler:

Located within the elegant lobby of the Fairmont (right off Blackcomb’s Wizard chair), the Mallard offers cozy couches fireside and a designated family seating area. In fact, the whole lounge is kid-friendly until 8 pm. On Friday nights until peak season, parents can order $5 drink specials while the kids sip gourmet hot chocolates and listen to nightly live entertainment.

2. Earl’s:

Earl’s is hard to miss coming down from any of Whistler’s main runs into the Village. Ski right to the front door, and grab a spot by the fire. The atmosphere here is very casual and fun; no one minds kids underfoot and the crowd is very family-oriented in the early evening after the lifts stop turning. Stay for dinner or depart after a drink or two (the burgers are great, but pricy).

3. Elements:

Located off the beaten path in Whistler Village North, Elements manages to be both casual and upscale, with inventive cocktails and appetizers that don’t break the bank. Kids will like the tapas that are disguised as finger foods. Unlike some of the noisier bars and pubs along the Village and Upper Village (think Wizard Bistro), Elements remains full without feeling crowded.

While you wait for drinks or while you’re still deciding where to go, let the kids play on one of the many snow hills piled up along the pedestrian streets of the Village Stroll. They’ll have a blast playing ‘king of the hill’ or sledding down them in their ski pants even after a full day on the slopes. (If only I had that sort of energy!)

Photo credit

Back to Ski: Smugglers Notch Resort for teens and advanced skiers

January 5, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

We covered Smugglers’ Notch amenities for young kids and babies last winter, but Vermont-based Smuggs has older kids, teens, and advanced skiers covered as well. In fact, this combination makes Smuggs an excellent resort pick for multigenerational family travel, so bring Grandma and Grandpa along, too. If you have expert skiers and older kids or teens in your midst, here’s what you need to know about Smugglers Notch Resort for teens:

Two-hour lessons appeal to older kids:

My kids—all of whom are expert skiers—balk at all-day lesson programs. They long to explore the mountain on their own, but we insist they continue to work on their skills. At Smuggs, advanced skiers can opt for two-hour lessons (ages 6-17), giving kids plenty of time for free skiing. Tip: book the afternoon session instead of morning for a less crowded lesson. You may even luck out with a private experience!

Mountain configuration is teen-friendly:

Smuggs is comprised of three interconnected mountains. Morse Mountain is where all the action is: you’ll find the childcare and ski school at its base, along with the entire Village Center, and a network of trails primarily for beginners, with a sprinkling of blues for intermediate levels. Madonna and Sterling mountains are further afield, and offer a solid helping of intermediate runs, plus the resort’s black diamond, double-black diamond, and even triple-black diamond runs. To get there, skiers need to ride the chairlift up Morse Mountain, ski the access trail, then catch the double chairlifts at Madonna and Sterling. What this means for parents of teens: to get back down the mountain, runs funnel back down to Morse, ensuring there’s only one place your kids will end up. It’s easy to plan meeting places for tweens and teens, and if you have kids in advanced ski school while you’re hitting the slopes solo, you can meet them at the Madonna/Sterling base lodge.

Adult lessons are not just for beginners:

Practice what you preach to your kids, and take a lesson yourself! If you’re an expert skier, consider your time to be a lesson on Smuggs as well as a lesson on ski form. Madonna and Sterling mountains are chock full of secret stashes, hike-only terrain, backcountry tree runs, and hidden powder pockets. Newbies to the mountain cannot hope to find many of them on their own, and ski instructors act as mountain guides, showing you where all the fun stuff is. (Tip: be a hero and show your kids the best tree runs after your lesson.)

No need to sweat about snow conditions:

Families can plan their entire ski vacation carefully, but no one has control over the weather. Smuggs takes care of this worry as well with advanced—and ever-increasing—snowmaking abilities. With 150 new snowmaking guns last season and another 100 in place for this winter, families can book late or early in the season with confidence, taking advantage of school holidays and long weekends. (Though the resort’s traditional 300 inches from Mother Nature per year certainly help!)

Don’t forget about cross-country terrain:

Included in the vacation packages, the resort’s Nordic terrain includes 30 km of cross-country trails and 24 km of snowshoe terrain. Lessons are available if you’re new to the sports, and ice skating is on-site as well (we find our kids prefer skating while we enjoy the tranquility of the trails). Rent equipment at the center or bring your own.

Teen clubs:

Teens and tweens are usually forgotten when it comes to kids’ clubs (most end at age 12), but Smuggs offers not one, but two! Kids ages 13-15 have their own space at Teen Alley, and 16-17-year-olds have access to Outer Limits. Both clubs are open for après ski fun without parents, and programming includes organized games, video game tournaments, movie nights, and dance jams. How teens have the energy for all this after a day of skiing, I’ll never know, but they do!

Photo credit: Smuggler’s Notch

Planning a family vacation To Miami

December 19, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

After its record 15.5 million visitors in 2015, Miami easily holds its status as one of the premier tourist cities in the US. And that’s not surprising at all, given its warm, sunny climate, beautiful white sand beaches, and abundance of popular historic sites and entertainment stops. We’ve visited Miami many times, and have learned there’s much more to this destination than the glamour of South Beach.

Add to that numerous nature-focused, “eco-tourism” adventures in or not far from Miami, and it’s easy to see why families with kids are flocking to Miami for the tourist experience of a lifetime.

But getting there can be long and tedious, especially with kids on board, and really especially if you’re driving or going by bus from distance starting points like New York, Chicago, or L.A. Traveling the major airlines can be challenging as well. That’s one reason why taking your family to Miami on a private jet charter flight is such an attractive alternative. Yes, you’ve been hearing about taking a private plane to Miami, and yes, they’re within reach for ‘regular’ families.

But regardless of how you get there, here are some great ideas on what to do that the whole family can enjoy:

1. Start At Bayside Marketplace

Not all shopping experiences are entertaining enough for kids, but the shops of Bayside Marketplace are a clear exception. Buy fossils, rock formations, and glow in the dark paraphernalia at “Art By God.” Then stop by Freedom Tower just a couple blocks north to learn of Miami’s fascinating Cuban heritage, just before eating lunch at Versailles Restaurant in Little Havana or hopping on a Biscayne Bay boat tour at Miamarina at Bayside.

2. Stop Off At Miami Science Museum

Museums may try kids’ patience in most instances, but Miami Science Museum will fascinate them. The natural history section, birds of prey zone, planetarium, and “laser show” are always favorites. Big Pink, a great burger/pizza joint that won’t cost an arm and a leg is not far away.

3. See The Seaquarium

In business since 1955, Miami Seaquarium is a true classic. Your kids can take in a show featuring whales, sea lions, or dolphins, get up close and personal with a manatee, and gaze in amazement while watching “shark feeding time” happen.

4. Venture Off To Jungle Island

Jungle Island is a kid’s paradise. A more than 20-acre rainforest full of all kinds of plant, bird, and other (non-dangerous) species – plus dramatic waterfalls, it will hold kids spellbound. The bird show and petting zoo are also key components of this “transplanted jungle” experience.

5. See The 3 Biggest Attractions Of The Region

After just an hour or so drive west from Miami, you can visit Everglades National Park. An airboat ride and a stop at Everglades Alligator Farm will ensure you see some significant wildlife.

Go south from Miami instead, and you can hit Bahia Honda State Park, not so far a drive as Key West and still an amazing drive. Also see the mostly underwater John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park in the same vicinity: you can snorkel, dive, canoe, motor boat, or ride on a glass-bottomed tourist vessel over the reef area.

Finally, don’t overlook Miami Beach, where besides the beach and boardwalk, you’ll find (toddler-friendly) Miami Children’s Museum, a place where kids can floss gigantic teeth and record their own music in a studio. Jungle Island (mentioned earlier) is also here. And a family bike ride down the boardwalk of nearby Hollywood and a stop at Taco Beach Shack (or a picnic on the sand, with picnic table) is also a memorable event.

Best ski towns: Lake Placid and Whiteface Mountain

December 11, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Ready to plan Lake Placid skiing with kids? Whiteface Mountain boasts the biggest vertical drop east of the Rockies, it hosted the 1980 Olympic Winter Games, and it has an impressive (or intimidating, depending on your skiing ability) 38% expert runs. But what you might not expect is that Whiteface is also a great place for families with young kids just starting out on the slopes.

One of my favorite aspects of Whiteface’s Kids Kampus is how separate it is from the rest of the mountain. While it’s easy for parents to take a run over to check up on their little ones, it’s isolated enough that the lift and runs are occupied almost solely by kids enrolled in lessons. That means that the lift is less crowded, and that you don’t have to worry about someone speeding by your child as they’re just learning to traverse the hill. The runs themselves are all green circles, except for an intermediate glade run, but they’re long enough to challenge kids that have moved beyond a magic carpet. To give some perspective, our 5-year-old, who has been skiing for two and a half years, was happy on the same hill as our 3-year-old, who just started earlier this year.

Kids Kampus is also great for its one-stop shopping. Parents can arrive at the Kids Kampus and buy lift tickets for everyone, reserve lessons and day care, and drop the kids off for their activities. They have a separate parking lot, lodge with cafeteria, and rental shop. To get back to the main mountain, you can either take the Bunny Hutch lift and ski over, or take the shuttle that runs all day between the Kids Kampus lodge and the main lodge.

And kids aren’t the only ones that can learn some new skills at Whiteface. Adult lessons are available from the main lodge and can accommodate all abilities. If someone in your group has never skied before, Whiteface also offers a Parallel from the Start program that includes a lesson, lift ticket, and rental. They also have an adaptive ski program that offers lessons and rental adaptive equipment for kids and adults with disabilities. Basically, whatever your age or ability, there’s something new to learn at Whiteface.

As for the mountain, of course it’s great! Even on a busy day, the hill doesn’t seem crowded because there are so many parts of the mountain to explore. The Cloudsplitter Gondola is a great place to start, and from there you can move on to the Summit Quad and ski the same hill used for the downhill races in the 1980 Olympics. If you’re really lucky (which I wasn’t, unfortunately), you’ll catch Whiteface on a rare day when The Slides are open. These are a series of chutes accessed by the Summit Quad. Most of the year they’re closed due to insufficient snow or avalanche danger, and even when they’re open there are certain precautions that are required—ski buddies, a beacon, shovel and probe. But if the conditions are right, you could be in for the best runs in the east!

Website info:

Whiteface: http://www.whiteface.com/ (this website is also where you’ll find info on the other Olympic venues, including information on sliding or cross country skiing). Another great planning site is visitadirondacks.com.

Lift Ticket prices:

Prices are listed on the website, and range from $79 for a half day in the Bear’s Den Nursery, to $143 for a full day of Play-N-Ski (two sessions of lessons, with free play and lunch in the nursery). Adult lessons start at $46 for two hours, and the Parallel from the Start program (which includes lift ticket and rental) is $139/day.

Lodging:

Our pick is the Lake Placid Towne Plaza for lodging close to the slopes. Read my full review.

Directions:

From NYC: take the New York State Thruway (I-87) north to Exit 24 (Albany). Take I-87 north (Adirondack Northway) to Exit 30. Pick up Route 9 north and follow it for two miles to Route 73. Continue on Route 73 for 28 Miles to Lake Placid.

From Boston: Take the Massachusetts Turnpike (I-90) to Albany. Pick up I-787 north to Cohoes. Connect with Route 7 west to I-87 north. Follow I-87 north (Adirondack Northway) to Exit 30. Pick up Route 9 north and follow it for two miles to Route 73. Continue on Route 73 for 28 Miles to Lake Placid.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my family and I skied Whiteface as guests of the resort, for the purpose of reviewing their child and adult lesson packages. All opinions are our own.

Museums and historical travel in Eastern Tennessee

December 1, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

From the Manhattan Project to coal mining and civil rights, Eastern Tennessee offers diverse and rich history lessons for families visiting the region. If you came with your family to visit Great Smoky Mountains National Park or Knoxville, stay an extra few days to explore the history of the area.

Historical travel in Eastern Tennessee:

Museum of Appalachia:

This living history museum and farm is located near Oak Ridge in the town of Clinton, Tennessee, and is absolutely fantastic. It was created by local resident John Rice Irwin in 1969, with just one re-located Appalachian cabin and some artifacts. Now, it has dozens of buildings to tour, animals to see, and a wonderful ‘Hall of Fame’ museum, which houses historical exhibits, antiques, and artifacts from the area. Most exhibits feature ‘regular’ citizens, detailing their lives with as much reverence as one would expect to find of key historical figures. It’s very touching to walk through and read of these ‘ordinary’ lives that become extra-ordinary in the telling of their tales. Many of the buildings around the property have been re-constructed and reimagined with period furniture and touches, and many living history events take place here.

Admission is $18 for adults and $6-10 for kids (depending on age), with multiple discounts for various groups. Definitely eat in the restaurant here for lunch; it was among the best home-cooked meals of our stay in Tennessee. Allow for at least 2-3 hours. The farm is located at 2819 Andersonville Highway, Clinton.

Note: across the street form the Museum of Appalachia is the Appalachian Arts Craft Center, which features crafts, pottery and fiber craft products from local artists. The member artists of this co-op work in studios downstairs and sell their wares upstairs; if you’re looking for hand-crafted souvenirs from Appalachia, this is the place.

Oak Ridge:

Just 30 minutes from Knoxville, Oak Ridge is the once secret city that housed the Manhattan Project during WWII. Now a national historic park, families can tour Oak Ridge in two basic parts. Start at the American Museum of Science and Energy, where you can check in with the national park service and get a park passport stamp. Your admission here includes a three-hour bus tour of the surrounding sites (great to do with older kids), but if you don’t have that much time, you can learn a lot right at the museum. Watch the short video, then tour the exhibits showing the history of Oak Ridge, which housed 75,000 scientists and their families. The bottom part of the museum will take about an hour, then be sure to head upstairs to the outdoor area, where you can walk through an actual housing unit from Oak Ridge. Additional exhibits upstairs are almost exclusively hands-on science exhibits (of a children’s science museum variety). The bus tour takes visitors to some of the actual sites of labs and reactors, and of note: only US citizens can do this part.

Green McAdoo Culture Center:

Continue your history lesson in Clinton with a must-do stop at the Green McAdoo Culture Center. Clinton is the location where on August 27, 1956, twelve teenagers were the first to desegregate a state-supported high school in the South, and Bobby Cain was the first black student to graduate from a public (white) high school. This event took place several years before the better-known moment in history when Ruby Bridges desegregated a school in Little Rock, Arkansas, and yet is nearly forgotten by history. The culture center is changing that, with a wonderful yet small museum in the Green McAdoo school building, just up the road from one-time Clinton High School (still there today, as the current middle school).

The Green McAdoo school served for years as the segregated school for black students, up until the time of desegregation. The historical events that took place in Clinton in 1956 tell a story of bravery from the students, their families, the larger community, and the school. The museum sheds light on important though often hard-to-hear civil rights history during the Jim Crow era, as the town of Clinton was rocked by the events of the ‘Clinton 12’. This is a stop on the East Tennessee history tour for older kids and teens, who will best be able to understand the complicated history. It’s located at 101 School Street in Clinton.

Coal Creek Coal Mining Museum and Discovery Tour:

Finally, take yet another turn through Tennessee history at the Coal Creek Miners Museum in Rocky Top, Tennessee. This is a small but important museum that can be toured in just about 30 minutes. It details the history of coal mining in the area, which started in the 1800s and included the third-worst coal mining disaster in US history, as well as what was known as the Coal Creek War, in which miners formed a militia to try to stop the US government from using prison labor in the mines. It’s a fascinating, sad history, good for school-aged kids and older. After touring the museum, hit a few stops on the Coal Creek Discovery Tour in your car (you’ll get a map at the museum). Stops include locations of the mining camps, cemeteries, and hilltops where the US military used cannons against miners in the Coal Creek War. The locations are largely well-marked, and all are close by.

Do you have a historical stop to add to our East Tennessee history tour? Let us know in the comments!

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Tennessee Department of Tourist Development

What to do and where to stay in Knoxville Tennessee

November 29, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Knoxville Tennessee is a small city with a lot going on. Known affectionately as the ‘cradle of country music’ (after all Dolly Pardon got started here), Knoxville is now also gaining a reputation for its dining scene, urban wilderness and vibrant downtown. Whether you’ve come to Knoxville with the kids to explore Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the surrounding countryside, or are enjoying a grown-up getaway, here’s what not to miss:

Knoxville with the kids:

Start by walking Knoxville’s pedestrian-friendly downtown, known as Market Square. This square plays host to dozens of restaurants and shops, all with a distinctive Knoxville flair, perfect for browsing and souvenir shopping. Any of our recommendations in our Knoxville dining post is great for kids, too, and for Mom and Dad, several urban breweries have local craft brews on tap. Stop at the Knoxville Visitor Center at 301 South Gay Street to take in the WDVX Blue Plate Special, a daily radio show from 12 pm to 1 pm, free to the public. New and emerging bands perform here each day, and you can bring in boxed lunches from nearby restaurants. Oh, and the red trolleys you see? Those are all free!

Next, explore Zoo Knoxville, a small but progressive zoo that’s known as one of the premiere zoological institutions in the Southeast. Known for their red panda breeding program and tigers, Zoo Knoxville focuses on education more than entertainment, which we appreciate.

Nearby, Knoxville’s 1000 acres of urban wilderness beckons, offering hiking, mountain biking, ziplining, and playgrounds. A true gift for locals, tourists can take advantage too, exploring the park’s multiple, connected sections. All within a three mile drive of downtown, this urban park can keep families busy all day. Mountain bikers may want to start at the Baker Creek Preserve section, where a kids’ pump track and nature playground (structures all utilize natural elements like logs, stones, and slopes) sit adjacent to the park’s most technical and advanced mountain biking trail, a double black diamond created via a grant from Bell Helmets (only for the most advanced riders). Additional green and blue single track can be accessed in this area as well, all found by Taylor Road.

In the northern section of the urban park sits Ijams Nature Center, certainly the hub of the park, with discovery trails perfect for young kids, an indoor center, more advanced trails that span out to a beautiful reclaimed quarry, and Navitat Canopy Adventures, hands-down the most extensive treetop ropes course and zip line operation we’ve tried. For kids age 7 and up, Navitat is a 2.5 hour experience that’s still under $50 per person, and takes guests through a half-hour on-ground tutorial followed by two hours of exploring multiple ‘trails’ in the treetops, where you navigate rope bridges, nets, slack lines, swings and zip lines, while harnessed into a cable safety system.

Back in downtown, the Museum of East Tennessee History gives families a really good overview of the history of the area. Admission is low, and the museum takes about an hour to tour. Across the street, the Tennessee Theater was once a 1920’s movie palace, now a venue for Broadway productions, musical groups, and children’s programming; it’s well worth checking the event calendar to see if a show coordinates with your visit. On the National Register of Historic Places, the theatre is truly jaw-droppingly gorgeous inside.

Where to stay: The Tennessean

Recently opened as a luxury category hotel in Knoxville, The Tennessean truly delivers on elegance, service and beauty. It’s located within walking distance of Market Square, is upscale without being pretentious, (definitely bring the kids), and offers one of the only elevated lodging options in the area. While I’ve stayed in more luxurious hotels, the level of service and attention to detail at The Tennessean rivaled that of a Ritz or Fairmont.

After speaking with the owner of the hotel, I understand why: he values a service level in his team on par with such hotels as Blackberry Farms (in Tennessee) and my aforementioned examples. What did this service look like? From check in to check out, I was greeted (usually by name) every time I walked into the lobby, the valet staff was cheerful and quick to action, and the housekeeping staff offered turn down service nightly and even remembered what side of the bed I slept on.

The Tennessean offers value in small and large ways: nightly valet parking is not terribly expensive, illy coffee machines are in every room, which also has robes, luxury bathroom amenities and fridges, there’s a continental in-room breakfast offering (starting as low as $3) as well as a full breakfast buffet ($18 at the time of my visit), a very nice fitness room, and, perhaps the star of the show, the second floor Drawing Room provides an upscale lounge experience with great city views, a fantastic bar, and small plates. Every evening, this was the place to gather for a cocktail (they’re known for their Smoked Old Fashioned) and some down time.

There are multiple room configurations for families, from suites to a very rarely seen double king room with bathtub (most other rooms have very nice, large showers but not tubs) and each room, as well as the public spaces of the hotel, have touches of a river theme: The Tennessean is named after the river, not the state. Once alerted to this fact, you’ll see river touches everywhere, from the river nautical maps over the beds to the water-like carpeting. Each floor is even named after a tributary of the Tennessee River, and all furniture and artwork in the hotel are locally sourced.

For families, I learned of several convenient saving hacks: the Holiday Inn right next door has a small marketplace adjacent to the lobby, which has cheaper breakfast items and drinks, and Tennessean guests have use of their pool, as well. The Tennessean is not only within walking distance of downtown, but it’s right next door the convention center and just behind the University of Tennessee.

Rates vary, but families can expect to pay around $100 more to stay at the Tennessean versus the budget hotel chains adjacent. We feel it’s well worth the upgrade to elevate your stay in Knoxville.

Disclosure: I experienced Knoxville and the Tennessean as a guest of the city. All opinions remain my own.

Knoxville dining scene: Farm to fork country cooking

November 27, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Imagine a culinary destination rich with vegan, vegetarian, and additional healthy dining options on nearly every menu, taking care to utilize locally-sourced ingredients. Then imagine Southern comfort cooking, from casseroles to pies, chow chow, and grits, with a heavy dose of tradition in each plating. Now imagine these two culinary styles combined, in one place, and you have Knoxville’s dining scene.

Downtown Knoxville has enjoyed a recent revival, with its walkable Market Square playing host to upward of 80 independent restaurants. The surrounding countryside in Knox, Anderson, and Jefferson counties boast several more destination restaurants, as well. Here’s where to go, on your next visit to the ‘cradle of country music’.

Knoxville and Market Square:

French Market: This French creperie is owned and operated by a couple who lived in Paris much of their adulthood, and have brought traditional French crepes back to Tennessee. Recently recognized as one of the top 25 creperies in the world, French Market gets busy each morning, but service is quick and the coffee and juices are great, too. Pick from sweet or savory crepes, omelettes and homemade croissants. Located at 412 Clinch Ave.

Tomato Head: This sandwich and salad eatery’s motto is, ‘Food’s gotta cook…don’t come out of a can’, which pretty much says it all. Tomato Head has an extensive vegetarian and vegan menu, in addition to your traditional meats and cheeses. We picked up a to-go order to eat at the nearby Knoxville Visitor’s Center, where we listened to the Blue Plate Special radio hour (a Knoxville must-do), which worked out perfectly. Located at 12 Market Square.

Maple Hall Bowling: This boutique Market Square bowling alley is more hip bar than traditional bowling alley, with 11 almost elegant lanes, small plates and cocktails, and a very fun, young vibe. Come with the kids in the afternoon, or in the evening for date night. Located at 414 South Gay Street.

Bistro by the Bijou: Located next door to the Bijou Theater, Knoxville’s top venue for live music downtown, Bistro by the Bijou is run by Martha Boggs, a Tennessee native who managed the bistro for years before becoming its owner. With no formal schooling in culinary arts, Martha has curated a menu with the sophistication of a trained chef…her diverse offerings are plant-based at heart, with added proteins with a Southern flair. She says she’s been cooking all her life with her family, and it shows: of all the meals we enjoyed in Knoxville, Bistro by the Bijou represented the farm-to-fork Southern sophistication hybrid I so enjoyed best. She grows her own vegetables, so you’ll see seasonal offerings like okra, tomatoes, and eggplant, and her daily chalkboard always features something in season and locally available. Located at 807 South Gay Street.

Knoxville Ale Trail: Knoxville boasts 10 breweries on its ale trail, with craft brewers from all walks of life, running breweries sporting all types of vibes and personalities. Most locals will recommend Alliance Brewing Company, located right next to Knoxville’s urban wilderness, making it a great stop after mountain biking or hiking. Crafty Bastard Brewery is run by a colorful and lively couple, serving unconventional, quirky beers.

Surrounding area:

Museum of Appalachia restaurant: Learn more about the awesome Museum of Appalachia here, but trust me, it’s attached restaurant deserves its own spotlight. Serving traditional Southern food with some modern twists, it offers farm to fork fare during lunch (long before farm to fork was a buzz word), such as vegetable casseroles, pies and soups, classic mashed potatoes and riced cauliflower, pot pies, carved meats, and to-die-for desserts. Eating here felt like Thanksgiving dinner, there were so many sides to choose from. Located at 2819 Andersonville Highway, Clinton, TN.

Bush’s Beans Visitor Center: While it’s not possible to tour the actual factory at Bush’s Beans, located in Chestnut Hill, it’s worth a stop if you’re in the area for the restaurant alone. Tour the adjacent museum to learn a bit about the Bush family, then stop for at least a slice of pie (every one we tried was amazing) or a whole lunch. They serve everything from classic beans and cornbread here to catfish, steak, or burgers, but the sides are the stars of the show. Try the sweet potato fries dusted with cinnamon and sugar, the fried okra, or the pinto bean pie.

Calhoun’s: Located in Oak Ridge, Calhoun’s is a great dinner destination after touring the Manhattan Project National Historic Park and American Museum of Science and Energy. Known for their BBQ, Calhoun’s view is also a draw; it sits right on the Clinch River, at 100 Melton Lake Peninsula.

Note: East Tennessee does have several wine trails, with the Great Valley Wine Trail the easiest to access from Knoxville. While the region is not known for wine, the views and ambiance at Spout Spring Estates Winery and Vineyard make this friendly winery worth a stop if driving through. It’s located at 430 Riddle Lane in Blaine, Tennessee.

Disclosure: I sampled Knoxville’s dining scene as a guest of the city, for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.