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Three Oregon getaways to take without the kids

November 14, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Yes, we’re all about traveling with kids, but let’s face it: sometimes, Mom and Dad need to get away…solo. If you’re looking for a parents-only getaway in the Northwest, it’s hard to beat Oregon. Not to toot my home state’s horn too loudly, but we do have it all: nature and outdoors pursuits, wineries and farm-to-fork restaurants, and city sophistication. If you’re ready to get away, pick a date, and enjoy any of the following Oregon getaways…without the kids.

couples-getaway

Hint: couples getaways make for great holiday gifts to a spouse!

Hood River:

We were lucky enough to experience Hood River, Oregon while on a LifeCycle Adventures customized cycle tour through the Columbia River Gorge. If the idea of biking along scenic byways past fruit stands in the shadow of Mt. Hood appeals to you, I recommend booking a tour. But you can experience Hood River via a short drive from Portland, too.

Where to stay:

villa-columbia

We called the Villa Columbia home. This B&B is situated at the edge of downtown Hood River, overlooking the impressive Columbia. From the patios, watch kite boarders ‘surf’ the waves of the river, or just relax in the cozy living room of this beautiful home. If you’re cycling or paddle boarding during your stay, the villa has a full downstairs storage area for your gear, and our suite had a large jacuzzi tub and great views.

Breakfast at Villa Columbia is artfully created and served by owner Bobba, who is inspired by her Eastern European roots in her cooking (though she tells us she does not use recipes…fresh, local ingredients are all that’s needed). During our stay, we ate yogurt and granola topped with local berries and melon, then a savory crepe filled with local heirloom tomatoes, avocado, and feta cheeses.

villa-columbia

Where to eat:

You cannot go wrong with a stroll through downtown Hood River…any restaurant you choose will be great. If you’re looking for a brewery, we had a nice casual meal overlooking the river at Full Sail Brewery, where we sampled flights of beer that paired well with artisan burgers and good old fashioned fries.

For a more intimate dinner, check out the 6th Street Bistro, which also serves a lighter lunch on its patio and in the upstairs bar area. The salads are excellent, as are the beers and ciders on tap. Speaking of which, if cider is your thing, stop by Fox Tail Cider en route to Hood River, where over 10 local ciders are on tap. You can get a flight here as well (for as little as $7) or pick one to sip while pursuing their fruit stand.

What to do:

cycling-my-hood

No trip to Hood River would be complete without a drive along the Fruit Loop. This network of fruit stands and orchards span across the Columbia River Gorge, and are open for business from spring through fall. Pick up a Fruit Loop map (available just about anywhere in town) and head out for a day of fruit sampling, picnicking, and generally having a leisurely time of it.

If you’re up for something more strenuous, take a walk or bike ride along the Historic Columbia River Highway. This pedestrian and cycling-only road was once the main thoroughfare along the Gorge, and is now the perfect route for cyclists, runners, and walkers looking for great views of the river and Gorge. If walking, we recommend the hike from the parking area at Mark O. Hatfield Trailhead (west) to the first observation area along the river. If cycling, it’s possible to do the whole highway to the tiny town of Mosier in about an hour (then an hour back).

Willamette wine country:

bergstrom-willamette-valley

If your idea of a perfect parent getaway involves a winery or two, head to the Willamette Valley. Meander through the towns of Newberg and Dundee, tasting wines throughout any afternoon (though weekends are best), then end up in McMinnville for the night.

Where to stay:

Hands down, you must stay at A’ Tuscan Estate. We’re not always sold on B&Bs, but a vacation without the kids is a good opportunity to try one. You won’t be disappointed with A’ Tuscan Estate. Located about five blocks from the downtown streets, this property is actually a pair of homes. We stayed in the smaller Craftsman home, where we had the entire downstairs floor. We had use of a full kitchen, living space, dining area, bedroom, and bathroom, plus access to an outdoor garden and sitting area. We didn’t need this much room, but had we so chosen, we could have made dinner in with ingredients from a farmer’s market instead of eating out. A nice touch.

a-tuscan-estate

Be ready to be wowed in the mornings, while enjoying breakfast made by owner Jacques, who has a long and storied career in the culinary arts. Jacques served us a decadent quiche, homemade pastries, and local fruit, and told us guests must stay at his property for 17 nights before the breakfast menu will be repeated.

Note: if a B&B just isn’t your thing, we highly recommend the boutique hotel Allison Inn, located nearby.

Where to eat:

When not being pampered by Jacques, head downtown in McMinnville to eat at La Rambla, a Spanish cuisine establishment with a great vibe. La Rambla is casual but intimate, which to me, means romantic without being stuffy. There’s a great bar at La Rambla, an extensive wine list, and great tapas. Before deciding, however, it’s a good idea to check the ‘board’ a block away at Thistle, the local farm-to-fork offering. Thistle’s chalk board menu is constantly revolving…during our stay, we preferred the offerings at La Rambla, but it could have just as easily gone the other way.

What to do:

bergstrom-winery

You’re in wine country, so the #1 activity during your weekend away will be wine tasting. (Yes, it’s a hard life.) Pinot Noir is the variety of choice here, and you’ll find the best offerings in Dundee, Newberg, and McMinnville. We headed out to the Chehalem Mountains region of the valley, where we could hit Adelsheim, known regionally for their pinot, then Bergstrom (right up the street). Each have a very different feel: at Adelseim, you’ll get detailed tasting notes at a sleek granite bar, and at Bergstrom, you can sit on the patio overlooking the vineyards and chat and laugh with friends.

Grape Escape tour guide Oregon wine country

If you’re just not sure where to go, I recommend hiring Grape Escape for the day. These guys know Willamette wine, and will take couples around the valley, making stops at suggested wineries (or your picks). We had a great day with Grape Escape, and can’t wait to do it again.

Portland:

Living in Oregon, we enjoy many Portland weekend getaways. Most of the time, we experience Portland with kids, but every once in a while, we need to get away solo. Our ideal Portland Oregon getaway…without the kids…looks a bit like this:

Where to stay:

hotel-monaco

When it comes to boutique hotels in Portland, everyone has their favorites. We are admitted fans of Kimpton Hotels, so our picks for a quintessential Portland experience with or without the kids include RiverPlace, Hotel Vintage Plaza, and Hotel Monaco Portland, all of which have been reviewed on Pit Stops for Kids.

On our most recent visit, we crashed at Hotel Monaco (our ultimate fave), in a king premiere suite. For the first half hour or so after checking in, we just basked in the luxury of it, from the jacuzzi tub to the plush robes to the sitting room area with downtown views. I adore Hotel Monaco’s high ceilings, quirky decor, and fun furniture.

hotel-monaco-pdx

We came to our senses in time to remember Hotel Monaco’s happy hour downstairs, and got ourselves a glass of Oregon pinot on the house, then played a game of giant Janga. Yes, that’s a thing. The Hotel Monaco lobby is more like a living room, with drinks set out, comfy sofas and a fireplace, and usually, a resident dog.

I love the mini bar offerings in Hotel Monaco rooms (and the ample mini fridge space for those dinner leftovers) and the doormen and front desk staff are exceptionally helpful with directions and reservations. Every time I’m here, I truly feel welcomed back and pampered…a feeling that’s rarer and rarer in travel.

hotel-monaco-pdx

In the mornings, I like to exercise at Hotel Monaco (the exercise room is on the 9th floor, so there’s no need to traipse through the lobby while sweaty), then grab Starbucks coffee or hot chocolate with all the fixings in the lobby. There’s coffee in the room, too, of course, as well as wifi. Just become a Kimpton member to access wifi for free…easy peasy!

Parking at Hotel Monaco is a valet affair, but reasonably priced for the city. If you drive a hybrid car, expect to pay half rate! We recommend leaving your car with the valet and taking MAX or walking through downtown Portland…no need to hassle with it again.

Where to eat:

Portland happy hour

We’ve rounded up a number of fun happy hour spots in the city. You can’t go wrong with any of the above, but should you not want to leave your hotel, the Red Star Tavern is attached to Hotel Monaco. They have a good happy hour menu of small plates, and inventive cocktails. Their bar is lively but chill, and couples can as easily cozy up in a booth instead up belly up to the bar.

Interested in comfort food? Check out Mother’s Bistro, located at . Mother’s is our go-to pick for soups, mac and cheese, and other wintery weather fare when Portland is experiencing its signature drizzle, and has a killer brunch on Sunday mornings (it will be crowded!).

Prefer to eat on the go? We love Portland food trucks! Located in designated pods around the downtown sector of the city, food truck fare ranges from gourmet pasta dishes to inventive burgers to ramen noodles. Grab something and eat it along the Willamette, on a bench overlooking the water.

What to do:

We love walking or hiking through Portland parks or enjoying a leisurely browse through Powell’s. This cavernous bookstore takes up an entire city block, and includes a coffee shop. You’ll need a map to navigate it all (available at the entrances) and without the kids in tow, you can expect to be there a while.

Portland Tom McCall Park

If you hit Portland during a weekend from spring through fall, the Portland Saturday Market is a must. Located under the Burnside Bridge, this outdoor market and street faire will keep you busy all day. Stroll through the stalls, people-watch, and sample local produce and artisan foods. Tip: start here, then spend your late afternoon at Powell’s.

On sunny days, a walk through Portland’s Pearl District or a drive out of the city through the Columbia Gorge can be a great day trip. Head out I-84 and stop at Multnomah Falls, then detour onto the historic river highway. After all, you’re in no rush!

Visit Whidbey Island with kids: Exploring Coupeville

November 12, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Whidbey Island may be small, but it’s tall, as my sons have noted after a map study. When families come to visit Whidbey Island with kids, it’s useful to stay in the center of the island, within easy access of attractions such as Deception Pass to the north, and the Clinton ferry landing to the south. The best home base: Coupeville.

Coupeville WA is located within the boundaries of Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve, which means its historical buildings and landmarks have been preserved. What remains is a beautiful little town on the shore, with quaint shops, fun eateries, and a lovely pier. We recommend spending at least one full day exploring the island’s many state parks, then at least one more visiting its many farms, agricultural stands, and farm-to-table restaurants.

Every year, Whidbey Island plays host to a free farm tour. Can’t make it? That’s ok: there are Whidbey Island farms perfect for kids at any time. Start at Greenbank, located in Loveland near Coupeville in the heart of the island. Greenbank has its own organic farm school, and 151 acres of public farmland as well as historic farm buildings. Families can visit the gardens, but kids and adults alike will really love checking out the shops onsite. Kids can sample pies, farm cheese, and numerous other artisan, local food items in the farm store.

If you can’t get enough farm store goodness, make 3 Sisters Market your next stop. Operated by 3 Sisters Beef, this shop sells the sisters’ (yes, they exist and we met them!) grass-fed beef and also showcases many other farm fresh products from around the island. It’s located on Holbrook Road in Coupeville.

In the town of Coupeville, visit Lavender Wind Farm, where you can not only buy island-grown lavender products, but kids can get a feel for the many uses of this plant. Sample lavender tea, lavender cookies, and lavender lotions. Across the street, stop by Bay Leaf for an artisan sandwich and a chance to see gourmet food products from France. They also sell Penn Cove Shellfish mussels, which are harvested right on the island.

Stroll through town, and take time to walk the pier and see marine exhibits at the end. Coupeville also has a nice bookstore and toy store.

Where to stay:

In Coupeville, we stayed at Blue Goose Inn, a bed & breakfast in the heart of town. Blue Goose is comprised of two historic Victorian homes (side by side) and has beautifully appointed, comfortable rooms. The sitting rooms are historic but cozy to utilize to read a book or work on your computer (there’s wifi throughout), and the breakfast is served in a sun porch overlooking the water. The food was all homemade and primarily locally-sourced…another good hands-on lesson for kids learning about farm-to-fork eating.

If you have young kids who cannot stay in a B&B room solo (rooms are double occupancy only at Blue Goose), there is a garden suite with kitchen and more space. We also recommend the family-friendly lodge units at Captain Whidbey, an historic inn just outside of town. This property is right on the water, with beautiful grounds and an on-site dining room for a nice meal in.

Have you toured Whidbey Island? What did you like best?

Guide to Whidbey Island State Parks

November 10, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Whidbey Island, Washington is known for its picturesque coastline and pastoral setting. It’s true that Whidbey, located north of Seattle, offers abundant farm stands and a healthy agri-tourism trade, but many families –including mine!– had no idea how many beautiful, exciting state parks fill this small island! We recommend coming to stay at least three days in order to experience most of them.

Fort Casey State Park:

If you arrive via Washington State Ferry at Coupeville, you’ll notice Fort Casey State Park right away. This large park sits on the island’s west coast, and centers on the region’s military history. There are numerous batteries (created for defense but never used) lining the coast line, which contributed to the ‘triangle of defense’ offered by Fort Casey, Fort Worden (across the water in Port Townsend, WA) and Fort Flagler.

What to do here: Families will want to check out the batteries and commanders’ station, but should also visit the beach access and Admiralty Head Lighthouse. The light sits at Red Bluffs, and during day time hours in season, visitors can go inside and even climb the spiral stairs to the light. From here (and elsewhere in the park), kids can watch the ferries come and go from the landing.

Campground: Yes! It’s right next to the ferry landing (which can be a good thing or a bad thing…).

Ebey’s Landing:

Ebey’s Landing National Historic Reserve encompasses the entirety of the town of Coupeville, Ebey’s Prairie, and Fort Ebey State Park. It marks the homestead and founding location of the Ebey family, and protects the historical significance of this entire section of the island. Fort Ebey includes coastline, hiking trails, and more batteries.

What to do here: At Fort Ebey, play on the beach! This section of protected coastline offers up oversized driftwood perfect for building a beachside hut or fort of one’s own, and the picnic areas are protected from wind and surf. The bluff-side trail is one mile long, and takes families from the beach to the batteries overlooking it. It’s worth getting back in the car to check out Jacob Ebey’s House. The house is open seasonally, but the adjacent cemetery is worthy of a visit in its own right. Families can overlook the prairie, and step inside one of the many ‘blockhouses’ the Ebeys built as protection from Native American conflict.

Campgrounds: Camping is available on the beach (in a protected forested area) at Fort Ebey, and on the prairie at Rhododendron Park (near the Whidbey Island Naval Air Station).

Deception Pass State Park:

On the north tail of the island, Deception Pass State Park may be the most well-known. This breathtakingly beautiful park focuses around the Deception Pass bridge. Hiking trails are abundant, and the park hosts a busy marina with sightseeing vessels doing business.

What to do here: Park at the visitor’s center (stand) on the south side of the bridge, and hike down to North Beach (.2 mile). From here, families will get a great view of the bridge before they cross it. It’s also fun to see the many fishing boats in the current that flows quickly here. Additional hiking trails take you further afield, or you can opt to cross the bridge. Cross either on foot using the pedestrian walkway (an exciting experience!) or drive. Head to the marina dock on the other side, and take a Deception Pass Tours boat out on the water. This 45 minute tour in a catamaran Island Whaler takes you under the bridge and past the challenging water that churns there to the bay. During our tour, we saw porpoises and harbor seals, and many tour groups see whales. Tours are priced right at $24.95, and don’t last too long for young kids.

Campgrounds: campsites range from forested to open, on or near the water. Like the rest of the park, they’re gorgeous!

South Whidbey Island State Park:

South Whidbey Island State Park is smaller and quieter, and feature shoreline and forested areas. Primarily, it serves as a campground. Families get great views of the Olympic mountains!

What to do here: This state park is popular for clamming, but there’s also about three miles of hiking trails, fishing, and swimming.

Campgrounds: There are 46 tent camping spaces at South Whidbey. Of note: families may hear air traffic from the nearby naval base.

While enjoying any Washington State park, you’ll need a Discover Pass. Passes are $10 per day, or just $30 for a year!

Exploring Port Townsend with kids

November 7, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Located at the very tip of Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula, Port Townsend has a lot to offer families. From the quaint waterfront town with its lively history to a storied military presence, exploring Port Townsend with kids includes hiking trails, fort batteries, ice cream shops, and touch tanks! Here’s what’s in store (and where to stay):

Downtown Port Townsend:

It’s easy to see the charm of this small town as soon as you enter, whether via road from elsewhere on the peninsula or by boat (more on that later). The shipyards are open to the public, which means boat-loving kids can see dry-docked vessels up close and personal, and Union Wharf offers great views of the ferry.

Start on Water Street, where kids will want to view the wooden boat outside the NW Maritime Center, then head across the street to City Hall Museum run by the Jefferson County Historical Society. We would have overlooked this museum had I not been taken there by a local: inside the historic courtroom, visitors can get an overview of the town’s history, then go downstairs to see old jail cells (Jack London is rumored to have spent a night inside) and exhibits on the region’s pioneering, Japanese, and native cultures.

Right nearby is Dogs-a-Foot, a hot dog stand with every type of hot dog desired. It’s a perfect lunch pit stop, with tables outside. Afterward, continue your stroll down Water Street for a stop at Elevated Ice Cream. This locally-owned and operated ice cream shop offers unique, locally-sourced flavors, and has a chocolate shop and candy store located next door.

Stop into any other shops that interest you; you’ll find a great local bookstore and numerous galleries. Note the historic architecture; Port Townsend has some of the best preserved buildings in the NW. If you have your car with you, don’t forget about ‘uptown’: historic Port Townsend built on both the wharf and in the hills, and families will find the best Victorian architecture overlooking the downtown region. This area features a lot of the town’s B&Bs, but you’ll also find wonderful bakeries, diners, and shops.

Note: If you’re in the downtown/shipyard area for breakfast, you’ll want to head to the Blue Moose Cafe on Haines for an authentic home-cooked meal. This local hangout is right in the shipyards, and has been overseen by the current cook (not chef!) for decades.

Fort Worden State Park:

We’re pretty sure Fort Worden State Park is the heart of Port Townsend as far as kids are concerned. This sprawling park is located just outside of downtown on the coast, with beach access, hiking trails, and picnic grounds. The central feature of Fort Worden is the fort, which served as defense against invasion during WWI. The invasion never came, but the many fort batteries remain, with platforms for artillery, ammunition storage rooms, and many more intriguing spaces for kids to explore. The batteries are open to the public, which is a very welcome feature in a world that has increasingly shut doors on historical sites. Kids will love climbing on them, running through their creepy, dark tunnels and hallways, and generally playing soldier. Parental supervision is absolutely needed, of course; small children could fall or get lost. Don’t worry, you’ll want to explore the batteries just as much! Prepare to spend hours here!

In addition to the batteries, Fort Worden is home to the Marine Science Center, located right on Battery Way. It’s open from April through October, with innovative saltwater touch tanks. The center staff bring sea life into the tanks in the spring, and release all the creatures in the fall. Daily, fresh salt water from the ocean adjacent is flushed into the tanks. Kids can touch many marine animals, and see more in additional aquariums. Across the street, the education building houses a whale skeleton and other educational exhibits with a conservation theme.

There are numerous walking trails through Fort Worden (grab a trail map when you enter) and some take kids to additional batteries (less crowded than the one near the beach). There are several campgrounds, and yes, the beach has swimming access. The Point Wilson lighthouse makes for a great backdrop to your Olympic Peninsula beach day!

Inland from the beach, the campus of Fort Worden remains, though quieter than in its active days. Currently, buildings and rooms can be rented for vacation stays, allowing families to further immerse themselves in the area’s history.

Yes, you can stay the night in Fort Worden!

Rentals include full homes on Officers’ Row, units in the Non-Commissioned Officers’ Row, or dormitory rooms. I checked out an Officer’s Row house, where I stayed the night overlooking the campus and ocean. Officers’ Row houses include 1 and 1/2 bathrooms, four bedrooms, a parlor and a dining room, and a full kitchen. It’s fun to see firsthand how officers and their families lived during WWI. These houses are not newly renovated, but are comfortable and very spacious. Kids can play outside, and everyone can walk to the beach, the light house, and the batteries. There is no wifi, but in the check-in building (which is newer), there is a sitting room and a coffee counter where your java and wifi needs can be met.

Beyond Port Townsend proper, the Olympic Discovery Trail weaves 120 miles between the town and La Push, on the western coast, and of course, the rest of the Olympic Peninsula beckons with Olympic National Park and numerous additional hiking trails and beaches. Read more about Olympic National Park with kids!

How to get here:

Port Townsend and Fort Worden are located on Highway 20, which connects with Highway 101. Families can also take Washington State ferries directly to town from Whidbey Island (Coupeville) or take the Puget Sound Express from the San Juan Islands. We recommend booking a whale watching trip with this company, even if you don’t need them for transportation to the peninsula. On our trip with Puget Sound Express, we saw humpback whales, porpoises, and harbor seals.

Port Townsend

Flying for the fun of it: Take a trip with San Juan Airlines

October 27, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Yes, you read that right: flying can be fun! In an era when it’s 99% hassle (even for kids!), I had a great time remembering what I love about flying when I spent a morning with San Juan Airlines. Check out my flight from Seattle to Friday Harbor, WA:

Yes, I’m smiling. Actually, I grinned most of the flight. Why? On a small plane–in this case, a Cessna 172 three-seater–it’s easy to remember why flying is fun! Gone are the barriers between you and the act of flight, such as large airline cabins, in-flight service, and movies on your laptop. Gone, too, are the discomforts: overcrowded conditions, delays, and grumpy fellow passengers. Instead, it’s just you and the pilot, an empty runway before you, and the heady sense of disbelief when you actually do defy gravity.

Do I really do this all the time?

Not like this!

San Juan Airlines, like several other small carriers in the Northwest, operate flights primarily between the small islands that dot the landscape between Seattle and Canada. They fly out of Bellingham, with stops in Anacortes, Friday Harbor, and smaller island and mainland destinations. However, they are also available for charter flights to over 16 destinations, from Spokane to Kamloops BC. Occasionally, they fly out of Boeing Field in Seattle, which is where I caught a ride.

When to consider a small carrier flight:

Obviously, flying on a 2-3 passenger airline is rarely going to be the economical choice. However, it’s worth considering whenever you’re traveling to hard-to-reach destinations, because sometimes, it will make the most sense. When I flew San Juan Airlines, I did so because I needed to be on San Juan Island at a specific time, and had I driven and taken a ferry, I would have had to leave my home 24 hours earlier in order to make the schedule work for me! In this case, time was indeed money.

Other times, flying instead of driving may be the best choice if you want to make your travel day as memorable as your vacation. On my San Juan Airlines flight, my pilot, Brett, doubled as a tour guide, pointing out many landmarks as we flew. When I wanted to see something closer, he happily did a circle around the harbor, allowing me to get all the photos I wanted. We’ve paid for scenic helicopter flights when on vacation before; I’d consider a flight with San Juan Airlines to be just as exciting and fun (plus you’re actually getting to your destination!).

Plus, consider this: no security lines, no boarding passes, no baggage carrousels…no waiting! Now that’s flying!

How to book with San Juan Airlines:

Their website makes it pretty clear, especially if you’re traveling their regular route. If you’d like a charter flight, simply fill out their form or give them a call. They’re a small operation, which means you’ll talk to a real live person when you pick up the phone. Tell them what you need, and they’ll work with you to find the route that’s best. Since I had flown into Seattle at SeaTac, for instance, I needed a flight from Boeing Field (in Seattle), not their regular location in Bellingham. Luckily, a flight was available for me!

How to find San Juan Airlines at Boeing:

Boeing Field is located less than 10 miles from SeaTac, but it’s a big place. San Juan Airlines operates out of the Landmark Terminal, which is located at 7149 Perimeter Road. Give your cab driver the exact address, or you could be circling around Boeing for a while! If you don’t get lost, the cab fare will be about $25 in normal traffic conditions. The waiting room is casual and comfortable, with fresh fruit, coffee, and wifi available.

Have you taken a charter flight? Where?

Couples getaway: Oregon cycle tour with LifeCycle Adventures

October 22, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

At Pit Stops for Kids, we’re fans of adventurous travel for kids, so it will come as no surprise that when we want to get away for an adults-only vacation, my husband Charlie and I prefer an active, outdoorsy pursuit of our own.

We also love wineries, outside-the-box local lodging, and farm-to-fork dining, indulgences absolutely possible to enjoy with kids, but— if we’re being honest here —even more enjoyable as a couples getaway. How to combine everything we like into one getaway? We found LifeCycle Adventures, an Oregon cycle tour company that offers customized cycling getaways.

Check it out!

LifeCycle Adventures hosts tours in Oregon, California, Hawaii, and the San Juan Islands of Washington. Because their Oregon tour routes are in our backyard, we headed to Portland, where we overnighted downtown at Hotel Monaco PDX (our favorite Kimpton hotel) before meeting LifeCycle Adventures owner Tony Blakey for a three-day ride.

Tony’s Oregon itineraries include a Willamette Valley tour, focusing on area wineries and featuring rolling terrain and quaint college towns, and a Columbia River Gorge tour, which takes cyclists around Mt. Hood before dropping them into the spectacular Columbia River Gorge at Hood River. We sampled a bit of both, so I could tell all you cycling parents out there which to book. As it turns out, we couldn’t decide which we liked better, so the good news is, you can’t go wrong.

Willamette Valley experience:

LifeCycle Adventures’ Willamette routes take cyclists from the outskirts of Portland through Forest Grove to McMinnville or Newberg, both in the heart of wine country. I say ‘routes’ instead of ‘route’ because every tour is customizable. Before embarking, we had communication with Tony via email or phone, during which we outlined our cycling experience (not much) and our objectives for our trip (to work up just enough of a sweat to ‘earn’ nice meals each evening). From our information, Tony compiled three route options per day, all ending at the same lodging location but offering various mileage. We could then choose our route as late as the day-of, after assessing sore muscles.

We started our journey with a quite easy 20 mile ride from beautiful Stewart ‘Stub’ State Park along the Banks-Vernonia State Trail, which is a car-free bike path. At the tiny town of Banks, we transitioned to quiet country highways en route to Forest Grove. We had a great lunch at Maggie’s Buns, then transferred by van (hello, Tony!) to our accommodations in McMinnville. Along the way, we stopped at several Willamette Valley wineries, which we absolutely could have accessed on bike, had we wanted to ride all the way into town.

Along the way, Tony was only a phone call away, should we need him or the services of his passenger van, outfitted with bike racks, extra water bottles, the rest of our luggage, and plenty of Clif Bars.

We spent the night at A’ Tuscan Estate, a quiet and understated B&B located just a few blocks from downtown McMinnville. Quite possibly, A’ Tuscan Estate is the loveliest B&B we’ve ever experienced. Owners Jacques and Liz are perfect hosts, with a fountain of knowledge about food, dining, and the hospitality industry (just read any of the numerous books on these subjects authored by Jacques, all available for perusal in the living spaces).

We strolled the quaint downtown of McMinnville, stopping in at tasting rooms and concluding our night at La Rambla, a polished downtown eatery with Spanish cuisine. At A’ Tuscan Estate, we enjoyed an entire suite in the inn’s Craftsman bungalow, where we had a full kitchen, patio, garden, and living room should we need it. For breakfast, chef Jacques put together an amazing three-course feast, which included three kinds of juice, local fruit, a light-as-air quiche, and homemade pastry. Try getting on your bike and riding after that!

Columbia River Gorge experience:

Cyclists opting to tour the Columbia River Gorge start in or around Government Camp, Oregon, at the edge of Mt. Hood. Those wanting to go further can start lower, and begin with a climb…no thanks! We coasted from Cooper Spur, picking up speeds up to 30 miles per hour on the steep decline from the mountain. Once deposited into the fruitful valley, we stopped for a picnic lunch at a fruit stand (there are plenty en route) and then geared up (pun intended) for a steeply rolling route into Hood River. We tackled closer to 30 miles on this day, and found that with just a few stops (once to try a flight of ciders at Red Tail Fox Farm, once to take in a view of the river and Gorge), the mileage was very do-able. We rolled into Hood River around 5 pm, and checked into Villa Columbia.

This beautiful B&B is situated right off the Columbia, with views from just about every corner. The comfortable living room and dining room are available for guest use, as are the porches and an upstairs sitting room. We were in easy walking distance of Hood River dining, and decided that after our longer ride, we deserved a beer. Full Sail Brewing overlooks the river, where we could watch kite surfers while enjoying a flight and burgers.

From Hood River, cyclists can continue to follow the Columbia on day 3: we opted for the Historic Columbia River Highway, closed to cars, which parallels the river toward the Dalles. More ambitious cyclists could continue on the historic byway, but 20 miles was enough for us on Day 3!

What LifeCycle Adventures provides, and who it’s for:

We are on bikes about once a month at home, and do not consider ourselves to be serious cyclists. Because LifeCycle Adventures customizes all their itineraries, it’s a perfect getaway for anyone who is active and comfortable on a bike. For those who are ready to go out and kill it, Tony has routes for you, too.

During our trip, we came to think of LifeCycle— and Tony —as our personal concierge. He picked us up daily, transported all our luggage to our B&Bs, checked us in (so we could just jump into a shower the minute we arrived), provided us with lunch and dinner recommendations, and, best of all, provided us with detailed route instructions, tailored specifically to us.

Here’s an example of our itinerary. In addition to this, Tony offers many more maps and support documents. We felt safe and in control at all times.

This customization was perfect for us: we are familiar with the area and comfortable on bikes, but not familiar with biking the area. Every morning, we had a briefing with Tony, during which he showed us our route on a map, then —and this is the kicker —provided us with detailed step-by-step directions and maps, which we could keep at the ready on our bikes. We were equipped with bike pumps, directions, snacks, and phone numbers, so we never felt overwhelmed by routes or road challenges.

Before our trip, Tony meticulously created a customized tour book with our exact routes and mileage, plus town guides for each of our destinations. I’ve never seen such detail put into a customized itinerary. If you want to try an cycling adventure but don’t want to be responsible for planning out a complicated route based on abilities, traffic, and road conditions, absolutely leave it to Tony.

Included in a LifeCycle tour is use of bikes and helmets, full route planning, overnight accommodations, which are also customizable (you pick your price range), and full ground support. Our accommodations provided breakfasts, and we bought lunches and dinners on our own.

Can kids go?

Tony welcomes families with kids, and reports that older kids and teens do best. When deciding whether to bring the kids, keep in mind that while the riding can be modified to fit almost anyone, the general pace of a cycling trip is more leisurely than most kids enjoy. We lingered over meals, slept in (wow!) and spent most of each day on a bike or at a winery or fruit stand. Kids who are very into cycling will love it. Others may be looking for a more varied trip by Day 2. You decide!

How to book:

There’s a wealth of information on the LIfeCycle Adventures website, and I recommend doing a thorough reading, then calling the company to talk to someone in person. Tony and his team will be able to plan something perfect for your abilities, budget, and time frame.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced our cycling itinerary as compliments of LifeCycle Adventures, for the purpose of review. All opinions…and sore muscles… are my own.

Most haunted destinations in the US (and why kids should visit)

October 17, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

Curious about touring one of the most haunted destinations in the US? The following family travel destinations have tales to tell. Visit with ghosts in mind, or opt for a spirit-free experience with educational tours, historical sites, and kid-friendly attractions.

Gettysburg, PA:

It’s no wonder Gettysburg, Pennsylvania is haunted, given the significance of this intense three-day Civil War battle. However, it’s not just the battlefield that’s haunted in Gettysburg. In town, visitors can see the house where the sole civilian casualty took place, that of beloved Jenny Wade. According to local lore, Jenny was baking bread for Union soldier when she was shot through the window. In addition, the unmarked graves of numerous Confederate soldiers still dot the landscape of the town, including, apparently, in the flower beds of the Rupp House, shown above. Ghost tours in Gettysburg range from the truly intense to family-friendly. We recommend Sleepy Hollow of Gettysburg Candlelight Ghost tours.

Why families should visit: Gettysburg is among the most significant, meaningful destinations we’ve toured as a family. Best visited with school-aged or teen children, Gettysburg National Military Park brings the Civil War alive. We recommend spending at least two days here, and taking the tour with a licensed battlefield guide.

Virginia City, NV:

Never heard of Virginia City? This mining boom town (now near-ghost town) is located about 45 minutes into the high desert from Reno, NV. Once pocketed with thriving silver mines, Virginia City is now both a historical and tourist gem. Haunted sites are too numerous to list, but here’s a spoiler alert: nearly all of them are saloons that span the main street. Virginia City ghost tours tend to be pretty intense; most are geared toward adults only.

Why families should visit: We absolutely loved learning about mining history in Virginia City. Families can visit ramshackle museums (some of the best kind!), see the gambling tables where (supposedly) cheaters were shot during the Wild West, and even walk into a mine shaft that opens from the back of a saloon. Historic house tours are a must, as is the town trolley.

San Diego, CA:

In San Diego’s Old Town, the Whaley House has been thought to be haunted for decades. Built on the site of San Diego’s first public gallows in 1856, the Whaley House is supposedly haunted by Jim Robinson, a thief hanged there four years before the house was built. He can allegedly be heard walking in the halls, opening and closing doors, and making chairs rock and chandeliers seem to swing of their own accord. If that’s not enough, Whaley’s own daughter committed suicide here, adding to the heavy atmosphere of the location.

Why families should visit: San Diego’s Old Town remains full of history and lively culture, ranging from historic building tours (of the non-haunted variety) and storefronts selling everything from old-fashioned candy and candles to modern-day art and handcrafts. This is the place to start an Old Town Trolley Tour, which includes tidbits of history around the city. And yes, you can attend a ghost tour at the Whaley Museum (ages 12 and up).

Philadelphia, PA:

Philly is packed with early Colonial and Revolutionary history, of course, with sites ranging from Independence Hall to the site of Ben Franklin’s home. For a haunted location, however, visitors need to head out to Fort Mifflin, the only preserved Revolutionary War battlefield still in existence. It was here that nearly 400 malnourished, nearly frozen, and ill soldiers refused to give up, successfully defending the fort against British forces. Families can tour the fort in the day time, or if you’re really daring, you can even ‘sleep with the ghosts’ during a fort overnight.

Why families should visit: A visit to Philadelphia should be on every family’s bucket list. Go when kids are school-aged to get the most out of the historical sites, and plan to spend at least two days to cover a whole historical itinerary. A visit to nearby Valley Forge is also a must.

Would you visit a haunted location? Have you gone on a ghost tour with kids?

Photo credit: Jim Bowen

Washington DC with kids: International Spy Museum

October 15, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

If you have kids 10 and up, you’ll want to include the International Spy Museum in your Washington DC itinerary. We absolutely loved it. Even though there are many free museums to tour in DC, it’s absolutely worth the price of admission.

Why we loved it:
This museum is one of the most interactive we’ve seen. It was created by a 30+ year veteran of the CIA, and it shows. The first section allows you to pick a ‘cover’: a new name, occupation, and cover story for your ‘mission’. You are asked to memorize it, then continue to ‘Spy School’. This section includes exhibits on various spy skills: the art of disguise, but also observation skills and common practices of the trade, such as dead drops (and others I can no longer remember…I wouldn’t make a good spy). There are tests you can take, games to play, and video screen challenges to test your skill.

After learning what it takes to be a spy, you continue the cover story game. On a bank of computer screens, you’re questioned about your cover, and, if you remember your details correctly, you’re given a second set of instructions (where to meet a contact, etc). Memorize these details, too, because you’ll need them at the last computer station. Tip: If you forget your details, you’ll be told the agent questioning your (in the computer game) is suspicious, and you may not get the info you need for the next part. Realistic, but frustrating. Since this first bank of computers is near the front where you picked your cover, it’s not too late to walk back and try again.

The next rooms in the museum take you through tools of the trade for soys through the decades, from packs of cigarettes that conceal cameras to the tiny bugs of today. It’s downright fascinating. Additional rooms detail the history of spying, from early cyphers to Civil War agents to WWII code breakers. Again, you’ll be entranced. At least we were.

At the end of this section, a last bank of computer screens will further test your knowledge of your cover, asking you to remember details from the earlier screens. It’s fun. Again, if you’ve forgotten stuff, your game will end early, but this time, it will be too late to go back for more info (unless the museum is very uncrowded). If you have younger kids in your group who struggle with this game, don’t worry: it’s a very small part of the overall museum. Our nine-year-old had a hard time with it, but our 12-year-old and 15-year-old loved it.

You tour the downstairs of the museum last. This large section is dedicated to James Bond villains. It’s cool, of course, but a bit intense for young kids. The good news is, it’s easy to skip this level with a convenient exit. Older kids who are not familiar with Bond will probably still be interested, because it shows various ‘bad guys’ and the techniques and weapons they used. Our older kids had seen Bond films with their dad and grandpa (avid fans) so they found it very interesting. There are a few more interactive exhibits here: for instance, kids can test their strength by hanging from a bar while wind whips around them and the bar shakes (simulating hanging from a ledge).

The last exhibit as you exit is on contemporary threats to communication, i.e., hackers. It showcases what may happen should a spy or terrorist hack into the US power grid. The result is quite apocalyptic. Young kids can be walked past this exhibit without grasping it’s meaning, but older kids may be alarmed. My older kids loved this exhibit best. They found it scary but also thought-provoking. To be honest, so did I.

The exit of the museum deposits you directly into a gift shop (of course), but it’s a quite fun one, with spy gadgets and lots of books and fun t-shirts. Kids may want to part with souvenir money here. Give yourself at least two hours to tour the whole museum. We had 1.5 hours, and were a bit rushed at the end.

Note: There are several additional programs run by the museum that we didn’t have a chance to try, including an hour-long spy game in the museum and a GPS-based scavenger hunt type game in the city. Both have an extra charge. If your older kids loved the museum and want more, I’d consider returning to play one of these games.

Date last visited:

July 2014

Distance from the interstate;

Right off the Mall, close to I-66 and I-395.

Admission:

$21.95 for adults (12 and up), $14.95 for kids (7-11). Kids six and under are free.

Hours of operation:

9 am to 7 pm in peak season. 9 or 10 am to 6 pm in off-seasons.

Dining:

There is no dining directly in the Spy Museum; however, the Shake Shack is located directly next door. This casual burger joint has the best frozen custard I’ve tasted!

Directions:

The museum is located at 800 F Street NW. The closest Metro station is Gallery Place/Chinatown. If you’re driving and parking (not recommended), use Panda Parking, which has partnered with the museum.

Wondering where to stay in DC? Check out our review of Grand Hyatt Washington.

Photos courtesy of International Spy Museum.

Family dude ranch vacation: a stay at Triangle X Ranch

October 8, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

There are many family dude ranch vacation options to choose from, and the time to book for next summer is…now. Dude ranches fill up fast, as many families book repeat visits. What sets Triangle X Ranch apart?

Let’s start with the family history. And I’m not talking about the Turner family history, even though this Wyoming family has owned and run the ranch for five generations (and counting). I’m talking about the guests’ family histories. During my time at the ranch, I talked to not one, not two or three, but the vast majority of guests who told me they’ve been coming to Triangle X for years, some decades. Parents brought their children, who now bring their children. Grandparents bring the grandkids. Children grow up coming, from age six up.

triangle-x-ranch

And yes, this is your view daily. When I asked one guest how he’d heard about the ranch, he explained that his parents had met here, and that none other than Harold Turner, current patriarch of the ranch, had been their best man. Triangle X may be owned by the Turner family, but longtime guests consider it pretty much theirs, and treat it with the appropriate care, bordering on devotion.

family-dude-ranch-vacation

Is all this history intimidating to new families, exploring Triangle X for the first time? It can be. The first day of our week-long visit, we watched multiple ‘Triangle X reunions’, as families embraced after a year apart. It felt as though everyone else knew where to sit in the Main House dining room, where to gather for a game of cards, and each others’ names. But it didn’t take us long to notice something else: everyone was welcoming. Without exception, every guest was quick to introduce themselves, and offer a tidbit of information about the ranch.

triangle-x-ranch

Due to communal dining and recreation, we quickly met other families who were at Triangle X for the first time. Our kids blended quickly and easily into groups where many children already knew one another, and thanks to social mixers, dances, and multiple riding options, we adults did the same.

triangle-x-ranch

Most people seem to hear about Triangle X by word-of-mouth, but those who find it through research learn that it’s the only dude ranch operating inside the boundaries of Grand Teton National Park. It’s all-inclusive, focused primarily on horseback riding, and structured with a ‘family camp’ vibe. The setting cannot be beat—the Tetons are your backdrop for the entire week—and the children’s programming is at once intensive and casual. What you get is great riding in a family-friendly atmosphere.

Triangle-X-Ranch

It’s all about the riding.

While families can certainly take days or half-days off to hike, raft, or relax, the primary focus of Triangle X is definitely horseback riding. It’s a dude ranch in the traditional sense: on the Monday morning of each weeklong stay, each guest is paired with a horse who will stay with him or her through Saturday. Two rides per day are scheduled, with multiple options for all riding levels. Guests let the ranch know their riding abilities and experience pre-stay, and on check-in day (Sunday evening), head wrangler Megan comes by each cabin to introduce herself and answer any questions.

riding-at-triangle-x

During our stay, the following dizzying array of ride options were offered morning and afternoon: fast ride, medium ride (sometimes a fast-medium ride), scenic walk ride, lesson ride, kids’ ride, and teen ride. Within the lesson ride category, rides were organized into walking lessons, trotting lessons, and loping lessons. Not sure where to start? Ask Megan.

triangle-x-ranch

Tip: If you have little or no experience on a horse, a lesson ride is a great idea. Start slow: the week is long, and you’ll get plenty of time to step things up. In my experience, lesson rides are the only place to get instruction. All other rides will proceed assuming you know the basics. For kids and teens with little experience, the kids’ ride starts out slow, then divides into several smaller groups based on experience level. Parents can ride with kids and teens on their rides, but not vice versa; no kids on adult rides.

dude-ranch-vacations

Daily rides start from the ranch, and follow one of many trails in the national park boundary. My favorites meandered along the banks of the Snake River. Depending on the ride you select, the group may be loping long distances, forging streams, or navigating narrow trails. On every ride, a wrangler oversees the group. Safety is important, but only discussed on Monday morning, so as noted above, a lesson ride will help those with less experience. Rides depart at 9 am and 2 pm, and last a few hours each. On select days, additional or different rides are offered, such as a sunset cookout ride, an all-day ride high into the mountains, and a family ride. Guests can, of course, opt out of any scheduled ride, and do something else instead.

Kids and teens:

triangle-x-ranch

At Triangle X, kids and teens have their own distinct programs, and are separated from adults most of the time. This, of course, can be viewed as a positive or a negative. While we usually experience vacations as a family, I have to say my kids loved their uninterrupted friend time on the ranch. Kids age 6-12 eat in their own dining area, and ride together morning and afternoon. Teens 13-17 do the same. Both groups have their own dedicated wranglers. The kid and teen program is not as structured as a ‘resort program’, where kids are checked in and out and multiple activities are offered; rather, it’s an organic experience that seems to hold together like glue. Expect wranglers to be supervising during rides, but not during time around the ranch. At times, adult rides or activities would be scheduled during kid free time; you’ll want one adult to be on-hand to check in on your ‘free range’ kids. Children share cabins with their families, of course, and in the evenings and between rides, can opt for family time or friend time (they have the run of the ranch).

Lodging:

triangle-x-cabins

I’d describe the Triangle X cabins as ‘upscale rustic’. Our ‘Berry’ cabin slept six, with three bedrooms and two bathrooms, but most were smaller, with 1-2 bedrooms. Each has a covered porch with chairs, electricity, heater, and a small refrigerator. It’s worth noting that cabins do not have wifi, phones, or TVs. Maid service is available, or families can opt for fresh towels only. We were perfectly comfortable. Most cabins have views of the Tetons, with the exception of the few at the far end of the first row. These have wooded views, which I found just as charming.

Dining:

triangle-x-dining

Expect ‘camp’ or ‘ranch’ fare, and you’ll go home happy. We were completely satisfied with the dining service, but foodies should note: it is not gourmet. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are all served communally in the lovely dining room, with coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and water available at all times. Beer and wine are BYO, and can be brought to the table. When away from the ranch, sack lunches can be requested (the night before). We were never hungry, but we were also never wowed. Since we hadn’t expected to be, we were perfectly content. All food is kid-friendly, and allergies or special preferences are accommodated.

Other activities:

snake-river

If (or rather, when) you need a break from riding, Triangle X also offers guided fishing trips and float trips. The Turner family knows their stuff, so you’re in good hands. The ranch is also only 10 minutes from excellent hiking, swimming, and and kayaking in Grand Tetons, and approximately 45 minutes from Yellowstone National Park. Jackson Hole is 30 minutes away, where most families plan to attend the weekly rodeo.

snake-river

During our stay, we hiked directly from the Triangle X property, drove to Jackson Lake and String Lake in Grand Tetons, and enjoyed Jackson. On one day of the week, the teens head to town for a movie, and on another, the kids enjoy their own float trip down the Snake.

Cost:

Triangle X is an all-inclusive vacation, and the weekly rate ranges from about $1800-$2200 per person, in the peak season. See rates for full details.

Why consider a dude ranch vacation:

family-dude-ranch-vacation

After experiencing Triangle X, I favorably compare it to other low guest ratio inclusive vacation experiences like small-ship cruises, adventure travel operations, and boutique all-inclusives. You can unpack once, stay a week, and parents have nothing to worry about, from planning recreation to planning meals. Yes, you’ll need to enjoy horseback riding, but that’s stating the obvious. (You wouldn’t take a ski vacation if you didn’t like—or didn’t want to try—skiing, right?) After a week with Triangle X, we left saddle sore, but happy, relaxed, and ready to tackle the rest of our summer with renewed energy.

wildflowers

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced Triangle X as guests of the ranch. Despite the fact that my kids wanted to move in, all opinions remain our own.

Washington DC with kids: Touring Mount Vernon

October 3, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

While you’re in Washington DC with kids, a stop en route to the city (or on your way out) at Mt. Vernon is definitely worth your time. We visited Mt. Vernon on our way into DC at the start of our trip, and spent approximately three hours. It’s definitely possible to spend more time.

Travel tip: If you’ll be pairing your Washington DC itinerary with some time at the beach, consider a Virginia Beach vacation rental. Kids can have some downtime on the shore after studying history!

George Washington’s Mount Vernon includes a state-of-the-art museum, beautiful grounds, a working farm with animals, Potomac River access, outbuildings and living history events, and of course, the mansion where Washington lived and died.

Tickets include entry to all of it. We started with the 20-minute film depicting the highlights of Washington’s life, then proceeded to the grounds where we had a guided tour of the house via timed entry. We visited during a busy summer day, so we did wait in lines, even though we’d purchased our tickets online in advance. (The timed entry marks the time to get in line for the house tour, not the time you’l actually go in.) Bring plenty of water, as you’ll be waiting in the sun.

The tour of the house takes about 25 minutes to go through, and shows Washington’s formal entertaining rooms, dining room, personal study, and several bedrooms, including the one he shared with Martha Washington and died in. You’re deposited outside, where you can tour the outbuildings on your own. During our visit, a team of university students were actively excavating an area behind the house, trying to find the site of the original well and other structures. It was nice to talk to them about their findings.

We toured the stables, smokehouse, and kitchens, then the final resting place of Washington and slave memorial (Washington owned many slaves). There’s a wooded trail to a slave cabin that I remember being very interesting from a previous visit, but the day we were at Mt. Vernon, it was too hot to make the trek. The farm (adjacent to the grounds) is also a good place to go when the weather cooperates. During our visit, baby pigs had just been born, and young sheep jumped in the pastures.

We saved the museum for last, relishing the air conditioning after so much time outside. Allow at least an hour for this space: there’s a lot to see about Washington’s life and American Revolution history. If you have young kids, look for the children’s activity room run by museum staff about halfway through the museum. They have daily crafts kids can do if they need a break.

Date last visited:

July 2014

Distance from the interstate:

Not far from I-95.

Admission:

Adults are $17 (12 and up), and kids are $8 (7-11). Under seven is free. When buying tickets online (recommended in summer to avoid long waits), select your tour time.

Hours of operation:

8 am to 5 pm, or 9 am to 4 pm, depending on the season. Open 365 days per year.

Dining:

Mt. Vernon has a food court, and the Mount Vernon Inn Restaurant, which serves Colonial style food. We packed a picnic, and ate it on the grounds before realizing we weren’t supposed to bring in outside food. If picnicking, eat before you head inside.

Directions:

The estate is located 15 miles from the city, at 3200 George Washington Memorial Parkway. Follow the parkway out from Alexandria.

This post written in partnership with VacationRoost.com.