Utah - Pitstops for Kids

Deer Valley on a budget: How to plan a skiing trip

November 8, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

During my visit to Deer Valley last ski season, I repeatedly heard two things: it’s so expensive, and the dining scene is amazing. After spending two nights and three days at Deer Valley, Utah, I can tell you one of these things is true.

Deer Valley has an amazing culinary scene that you will want to indulge in. However, this resort is not the most expensive in Utah. In fact, lift ticket rates at Deer Valley are right in the average range for the area. Deer Valley fans know this is only one of the many misconceptions out there about this resort. In addition to hearing that it’s unaffordable, I’ve heard it ‘only has easy groomers’, is posh to the point of snobbishness, and that it’s a playground for the rich and famous. While it certainly boosts some A-list names among its home owners, the rest simply is simply false.

Deer Valley on a budget: Yes, it CAN be affordable!

First off, we simply have to accept the fact that most skiing in major resort in the US is expensive. In fact, it’s downright out-of-hand in many parts of Colorado, Utah, and California. The Park City area is no exception; however, you’ll do more damage to your wallet at Park City Mountain Resort now that Park City and Canyons have merged ($122/day for adults). When I skied recently in Colorado, lift ticket prices were upwards of $140. A Deer Valley one day adult lift ticket is $120, which makes it just below industry standard for resorts of its size. Not cheap, but certainly not the ‘splurge’ people think it is.

Buy lift tickets in advance:

Of course, you won’t want to pay day-of lift ticket prices. Make your Deer Valley trip more affordable by buying lift tickets online before your trip. Don’t overlook the season pass section: depending on how many days you plan to ski, buying a season pass can be a better deal (look for sales in October and November…in other words, right now!).

Stay in a condo:

Next, make your trip affordable by staying in a condo or house, splitting the cost with another family or two. Many people consider Deer Valley unaffordable because they’re thinking of all the amazing four and five star resorts situated around it. While its true that you can spend thousands a night at the St. Regis, Stein Ericsen, Montage, and more, less ritzy lodging is available. With the money you save, you can splurge on dining out (more on that below).

During our stay, we were in a condo in the Snow Park base area. We were minutes from downtown Park City and minutes from the lifts. Included in our condo stay was a complimentary shuttle in either direction, plus internet access, a full kitchen, multiple bathrooms and bedrooms (so crucial when sharing with other families), a washer and dryer, and lots of space to spread out. We sacrificed ski-in, ski-out access for price.

Enjoy some meals out:

When skiing Deer Valley, you cannot miss noticing the amazing culinary scene. Everything from breakfast at the base to on-mountain dining and evening apres ski is amazing, and if you deny yourself all of it, you’ll miss a key part of the Deer Valley experience. With your condo, you can decide which meals to eat in-home, and select a few nights to treat yourself. Here’s where to go:

Fireside Dining: Holy. Moly. Fireside Dining is an experience NOT to miss. It’s offered Wednesday through Saturday, and features four courses served from stone fireplaces, European Alps-style. Diners visit each ‘fireplace station’ at will, in buffet style. Start with the raclette (melted cheese with toppings), then move on to soups, stews, grilled vegetables, leg of lamb, and dessert fondue. It will feel overwhelming, but your waiter will walk you through it. We were told to remember to eat in order of ‘cheese, stew, lamb, fondue’. In truth, you can do it any way you’d like! Be sure to stop mid-way through your meal for a sleigh ride, offered right out front. The servers will hold your table for you, and the break will be welcome. Rides are only $20 per family. Even your meal is affordable, considering the uniqueness and quality: adults pay around $60, kids $30. Alcohol is not included in the price, but you can even bring your own without a corkage fee.

Seafood Buffet: I’m told many diners choose between Fireside Dining and Seafood Buffet when they visit Deer Valley. I’d be hard pressed to choose which! As the simple restaurant name suggests, Seafood Buffet is just that. Thanks to the hub airport at SLC, Deer Valley gets the same fresh seafood as LA or New York, at the same time, if not earlier. It’s offered Thursday through Sunday, and includes a Poke bar, raw bar, rotating selection of grilled and baked fish, prime rib, shellfish, and wonderful desserts. Adults are $68, kids are $34. It’s worth it.

Royal Street Cafe: This restaurant on the snow at the mid-mountain Silver Lake area offers sit-down, serviced dining mid-day. Don’t think of it as a splurge: the prices are only a fraction higher than they’d be at the buffet nearby, and you can actually sit down and put your feet (or boots) up. I had an amazing burger, and others ordered fish tacos, an ahi tuna tower, and Asian salad.

Snow Park Restaurant: Snow Park is at the Snow Park base area (and turns into Seafood Buffet at night!). It serves the usual breakfast in the morning, but makes this list due to its wonderful Natural Breakfast Buffet. This buffet area in the center of the room features granola, yogurt, berries, fruit, oatmeal, nuts, and the like. I made my own custom yogurt parfait.

And for those meals you simply must eat in? Don’t miss out on some of Deer Valley’s signature meals, even in your condo. Deer Valley’s famous Southwestern turkey chili can be bought as a mix in almost all Deer Valley gift stores; add your own meat and veggies, and you’ll have a huge vat of this chili for under $8. Additional mixes are available as well! You’ll have a taste of Deer Valley while feeding the whole crew for pennies!

What to expect on the slopes:

Yes, Deer Valley has a lot of green and blue runs. They’re long, impeccably groomed, and oh-so pleasant. While skiing down them, it’s fun to look at the huge ski vacation homes lining them (Deer Valley is surprisingly ‘urban’ in this way). However, expert terrain definitely exists, if you want it. During my visit, I was lucky enough to ski with former 3x Olympian Heidi Voelker, who is now an ambassador at Deer Valley. She showed me amazing bowls and chutes I didn’t know existed, especially off the Empire chair. Deer Valley also boosts a lot of glades that hide stashes of powder after the bowls are skied out.

No matter what type of terrain you like, you’ll notice that at Deer Valley, the runs and chairs are very well spaced and ‘crowd control’ is very well handled. I never found I needed to traverse or ‘hike’, and I never waited in a long line. Part of this is because Deer Valley actually limits ticket sales per day. They base their capacity level on how many chairs they have available on-mountain for lunch. It’s a great system that results in a very peaceful atmosphere, both on the slopes and at lunch.

Tip: Definitely book lift tickets well ahead if you plan to come during holiday periods, so you don’t arrive to find the capacity has been met. In fact, I was told to book lift tickets and ski school at the time I book lodging.

If you like to shop:

You will have ample opportunity! However, if you want to stick to a budget, head into Park City and do your outdoor gear shopping at Cole Sports. This huge retailer of skis, outerwear, boots, shoes, and more has frequent sales, especially in the pre-season and late season. In Deer Valley, many upscale shops exist; if you need to avoid temptation, however, it’s easy, as there’s no central base area shopping here, where everyone converges.

Will your Deer Valley ski vacation be ‘cheap’? Goodness no! But it’s certainly possible to ski here for no more, and perhaps for less, than at other major ski resorts.

Disclosure: I visited Deer Valley as a guest of Ski Utah.

Zion National Park in winter

February 25, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Before I visited Zion National Park in winter, I pictured the famed slot canyons and rock formations of the park buried in snow, with park amenities shuttered for the season and the adjacent town of Springdale hard to access on wintery roads. I could not have been more wrong. Thanks to it’s low elevation and Southern Utah location near St. George, Zion National Park in winter is completely accessible, and often warmer than you’d think.

As we arrived from a weekend of skiing at Brian Head and Eagle Point (yes, you can ski and hike on the same road trip!), we rolled our windows down as we approached the park from Highway 9. It was a balmy 50 degrees when we entered the artsy, scenic town of Springdale, and inside the park, just enough snow dotted the ground and clung to the red rock to be picturesque but not problematic.

What to do in Zion National Park in winter:

The short answer: pretty much everything you’d do in summer, but without the crowds. We hiked several trails that are usually highly impacted during the warm weather months, encountering only a handful of other people. During the winter, the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive can be done by car; in summer, you must take the shuttle. Most of the hikes that start from points along the drive are open during the winter months, too, which makes Zion National Park your personal playground in December, January, and February.

Hike The Narrows in winter:

Hiking The Narrows was the highlight of our Zion winter trip. While we loved The Narrows in summer, going in winter is an entirely different experience. Start at Zion Outfitter, located at the entrance of the park by the visitor center. These guys can set you up with dry suits, special river shoes, and booties, which you’ll definitely want for the Narrows in winter. For $45/person, you get dry bibs (that go chest high), Adidas HydroLace canyoneering boots, neoprene socks, and a wooden hiking stick. For a little less, you can opt for waist high pants.

Note: you can rent the boots and socks in summer too, which I now realize would work better than the Keens we wore last time!

You can arrange for a guide to go with you in The Narrows, but families can also do it solo, provided you check the weather and conditions first at the visitor center. The Narrows are known for flash floods, which can happen any time of the year. To get to the river, go up Zion Canyon Scenic Drive to the last stop, Temple of Sinawava. You’ll take a paved trail for one mile, which ends at a good entrance to the Virgin River. During our visit, the trail was icy, so go slowly if needed, and be aware of icicles and potential falling ice above you.

Once in the river, make your way at will, sticking to the shallow spots as desired. The entire way up The Narrows to where it splits with Orderville Canyon takes a couple hours (it’s about 3.5 miles), but families can stop anytime; it’s an out-and-back. Take care to keep your upper body dry; water WILL pour into your dry suit from the top of the bib if you go too deep. Otherwise, the dry suit set up kept us very dry and comfortable.

Note: the canyoneering shoes WILL let in water; this is normal, and the reason for the wetsuit-like sock.

The Narrows in winter are truly magical: the snow and ice contrast with the red rock and water with such beauty, you’ll want your camera out at all times. And unlike in summer, when you’re wading through the river with crowds of people, you may have the river to yourself. I found myself completely alone more than once in the canyon.

Additional hikes:

The easy hikes along the scenic drive, including the Grotto Trail and Weeping Rock Trail are usually open in winter, but be aware that they may be icy. Bring extra traction for your hiking boots, like YakTraks, and you should be ok. While we were at Zion, we also did the Canyon Overlook Trail, which is located just past the tunnel within the park (take a right at the ‘Y’). Canyon Overlook offers big views for little effort; the whole hike is less than 1.5 miles, and though fairly strenuous, includes features that will be fun for kids, like stair climbs, overhangs, and wooden planks. Just take care with young kids as there are drop-offs along the trail, though the end overlook does feature a railing.

While we were at Canyon Overlook, a park ranger also recommended Sand Bench trail to us in winter. The Sand Bench Loop starts at the Court of the Patriarchs shuttle stop and is roughly 3.5 miles (round trip). From the shuttle stop, take the hikers’ bridge across the Virgin River. The trail crosses a stream, then continues past a landslide area from the ’90s. You gain elevation of about 500 feet, much lower than any hikes to the canyon rims. Plan to encounter sand, but as a winter bonus, it may be frozen or at least hardened.

Where to stay at Zion National Park in winter:

We have stayed at Cliffrose Lodge in both summer and winter, and love this property. See why it’s great for families here. The Cliffrose has been family-owned for many years, and the owners are committed to the area, putting money back into their property, and elevating the tourism experience in Springdale and Zion National Park. The lodge is just outside the park boundary next to the visitor center, and the view out of every window is fantastic. In summer, the gardens and access to the river turn the Cliffrose into an extension of the park for outdoor play, and in winter, the open, elegant lobby beckons. A full restaurant is slated to open in 2017, as well.

In winter, three outdoor hot tubs are at your disposal (in summer, there’s also a spacious pool), and a breakfast-in-bed (in room) menu is available for $10/person. Cliffrose suites are perfect for larger families, as they have two bedrooms separated by a full kitchen and dining area, with balcony or patio.

Where to eat in Springdale:

Springdale, the tiny town at the entrance of the park, is unlike any other ‘national park town’ I’ve experienced. It’s a destination in its own right, with art galleries, eateries, and specialty shops hugging Highway 9 against the backdrop of jaw-dropping canyons. From the Cliffrose, you’re only a few blocks from just about everything. The following restaurants are our favorites, with a few we haven’t tried added in that have been recommended by locals:

9 East: this upscale Italian and Mediterranean bistro has been opened by a recent executive chef from Las Vegas
The Spotted Dog: American bistro fare
Bit ‘n Spur: upscale Southwestern/Mexican hybrid cuisine
Oscars
Kings Landing

How to extend your Zion National Park trip in winter:

I recommend staying in Springdale at least three days in winter to enjoy both the town and the park, then extending your stay in Southern Utah to include Bryce Canyon National Park or a Southern Utah ski resort. Brian Head resort is only about an hour away, where families can snowmobile, ski, and snowboard to round out an adventurous vacation.

Pin it for later:

I was a guest of the Cliffrose and Zion Outfitter for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.

Bryce Canyon National Park in winter

February 24, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’ve been to Bryce Canyon in summer, you know this national park is incredibly scenic, and also incredibly crowded. Even the ‘shoulder’ seasons of late spring and early fall are becoming congested with tourists. But come in the heart of winter, and you’ll have this playground of natural wonders to yourself.

Things to do in Bryce Canyon National Park in winter:

Much of Bryce Canyon stays open year round. With an elevation of around 7000 feet, families may or may not encounter snow; we did, on our trip, but I was told it varies by season. If there is snow, it’s possible to cross country ski or snowshoe in and around the park, and of course if you encounter dry ground, hiking is an option. Just keep an open mind and be flexible.

Start at Ruby’s:

On the north end of the park, just outside the boundary, lies Ruby’s Inn, which is actually an entire complex consisting of a activities center, wild west dinner show venue, restaurants, and hotel rooms. Reuben (Ruby) and Minnie Syrett arrived in the area in 1916 and founded Ruby’s in 1923. It’s owned by the family to this day.

If you need a place to stay overnight, Ruby’s has clean, basic hotel rooms on the edge of the park, but it’s a great stop if you’re in Bryce Canyon just for the day, too. In winter, Ruby’s offers a winter sports center with an ice skating rink, a nordic track with six miles of trails (which connects to more in the national park) and cross-country ski and skate rentals.

We rented skis and took to the nordic track, which curves around the Ruby’s complex to the edge of the canyon. After just a 15 minute ski, you are rewarded with amazing views of Bryce. I suggest taking the two mile loop with kids; cross-country skiing is not hard to learn and a fun way to see Bryce in the snow.

The restaurant at Ruby’s is adjacent, and has a family-friendly buffet at both breakfast and lunch, as well as a menu to order off of. At very low crowd time periods, such as when we visited, they may not offer the buffet, but will still have a full sale and soup bar. Ruby’s is not fine dining, by any means, but a solid choice for feeding the family. Next to the restaurant is an extensive store, where you can pick up souvenirs but also groceries, winter clothing, and anything else you may have forgotten.

See Bryce Canyon with an expert with Bryce Valley Tours:

You’ll have Bryce Canyon to yourself in the winter, but you may not know where to go or what you’re seeing. We had the opportunity to see the park with John of Bryce Valley Tours, who accompanied us on our ski trek and explained the geological history of the canyon as we skied. John also offers half-day and full-day tours, which can be tailored to your family’s interests. Half-day tours are $75/pp, which I think is a good value for the opportunity to have an expert guide you who knows which parts of accessible in snow, which are closed in winter, and the like.

Stop at the visitor’s center:

The Bryce Canyon visitor’s center is located directly past the entrance, and is small but worth the stop. The exhibit area explains the geological history of the canyon’s rock formations, including the hoodoos you’ll see everywhere. Get the kids their Junior Ranger booklets, and get stamps in your national park passports.

Drive to the most scenic lookouts in the park:

Bryce Canyon is a park that’s big on views. The major lookouts are all open in the winter, even in snow. Drive in and check out Inspiration Point—trust me, it’s aptly named—and Swamp Canyon. The latter is much more stunning than the name suggests. At each of these lookouts, short hiking trails are available. When we visited, the snow was several feet deep, but they were still open, albeit difficult to navigate. If you decide to walk a bit, be careful of your footing, as you ARE on the edge of a canyon. Snowshoes would help.

Tips for visiting Bryce Canyon National Park in winter:

Call the park ahead of your trip to stay up-to-date on any road closures or closed exhibits; this is the off-season.
Be prepared for any type of weather; you could get snow or sun. Make sure everyone in your group has winter boots, waterproof pants, a hat, gloves, and jacket. You don’t want to get caught off-guard and have to buy all this at Ruby’s!
If there IS snow, try snowshoeing to get around on the trails.
Wear sunscreen; the high elevation causes people to burn easily if the sun is out.
Hydrate and go slowly at elevation until you’ve acclimated. Check out our tips for adjusting to high elevations.

Backcountry skiing basics: How to get into the sport

December 2, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

It’s never been a better time to get into the backcountry and leave the crowds behind! Here’s how to get into the sport during the COVID season!

An avid downhill skier and snowshoer, I’ve been noting the small but growing trend toward backcountry skiing for some time now. This sport, which combines a love of nordic exploration and downhill excitement, attracts men and women (and yes, some kids) who want to carve their own line down mountain terrain and explore the wilderness at the same time.

I got my first pair of backcountry skis in 2012, which were basically fat nordic skis with a three-pin binding. I found I could navigate single-track nordic trails with steep inclines much better than my nordic skier counterparts, and I was hooked. Today, all-terrain (or AT) ski gear is much more involved, but AT skiing is still a fairly diverse term. Just like the sport itself, it can mean something different to every enthusiast, from short hikes up to freshies from lift-accessed runs to full-day expeditions with beacons and probes.

In January, I was lucky enough to experience the sport in more depth, this time trying out top-of-the-line AT skis, boots, and bindings on a half-day, strenuous backcountry ski day in Utah’s Cottonwood Canyon near Solitude Mountain Resort.

I headed out with Utah Mountain Adventures after getting outfitted with Voile skis with Dynafit bindings and Scarpa AT boots. I carried a backpack with plenty of water, plus a shovel and avalanche probe. I strapped an avalanche beacon, provided by Utah Mountain Adventures, to my body.

The only way to get fresh powder runs was to climb uphill, so my first lesson was in putting on skins. Turns out, this is easy. The hard part is to climb upslope. We climbed for over two hours, stopping for a few breaks, skinning up a mountainside in the Wasatch Mountains. I’d like to say I enjoyed the whole experience, but in truth, by hour two, I was sweating enough to shed a layer and starting to feel hot spots (which turned into blisters) where my socks rubbed in my boots. I was told to loosen my AT boots for the uphill climb (there’s a walk mode and ski mode), and while I’m sure this is sound advice, it didn’t help on the blister front.

The whole uphill experience reminded me of hiking: there were periods of enjoyment while I took in breathtaking views and reveled in being in the wilderness in winter, but also periods during which I had to set tiny goals–get to the next tree, get to the next open slope–in order to carry on. In other words, it’s crucial to love the outdoors and the uphill ‘hiking’ process, or the joys of backcountry skiing may be lost on you.

Climbing in AT skis is not very difficult–it’s much like cross-country skiing–but there are moments when kick turns may be necessary to zig-zag along steep grades. Yes, there’s a learning curve to this, but here’s what I was told (and it helped): use as much of the flat plane of your ski base as possible. Staying on your edges, where you don’t have skins, won’t help you keep traction.

Once we’d summited a peak in Cottonwood Canyon, the fun began. We took off our skins, stowed them in our packs, and switched our boots and bindings to downhill mode. (Dynafit bindings are unique in that they transition from climbing mode, with the heel untethered, to downhill mode, with the heel locked down just like alpine skiing, with one twist of the back binding. They also feature ‘risers’ that can be raised while in climbing mode, which assist on steep ascents, much like going a gear lower on a bike. Yes, they’re nifty.)

We picked our line for the descent, and carved down the beautiful, light powder. Thanks to the efforts of our uphill hike, the terrain wasn’t skied out like it quickly becomes on lift-accessed terrain. I happily followed the lead of our guide, who knew the area and how to traverse through the glades and open slopes and still find our starting point back at base. Without him, I would have needed a GPS in unfamiliar territory.

Raised in the deep powder of Tahoe, skiing off-piste before I knew what that meant, I loved every second of the descent. Yes, it was challenging, but also very satisfying, knowing I’d earned my turns. I never needed my beacon, but was glad for the security it offered. Back at the base of the mountain, I switched my skis back to climb mode, and ‘cross-country skied’ my way back to the car on flat terrain. The sun was setting by the time we returned, and trust me, I’d earned my pizza and beer.

What you’ll need to get started in AT skiing:

AT or telemark skis (these are the skis I tried)
AT or telemark boots (the most comfortable seem to be Dynafit)
any ski poles
backpack
shovel, probe, and beacon
breathable outerwear
plenty of layers (wool is best)

Tips for beginners (like me):

I recommend going with a guide, like I did, your first time out (or any time out in an unfamiliar area). Most guide services can also rent AT skis and boots, which are expensive to buy yourself at first. More importantly, guides know where to go and are trained in avalanche safety (check to make sure!).

Any time out in the backcountry, everyone in your party should carry a beacon and shovel, at very least. I fell once during my trip, and lost one ski. It was deeply buried almost instantly, and had it been me, I would have been glad for my beacon, guiding others to me. Luckily, I found the ski without needing my shovel. If you go out without a guide, you should have completed an avalanche safety course. They are offered almost everywhere now, from gear stores to ski resorts.

If you haven’t explored winter terrain at all yet, start by snowshoeing or cross-country skiing. Hit trails you’re familiar with in the summer months; they’ll have a different feel in winter! Alternatively, try backcountry skiing from lift-accessed terrain. At any ski resort, look at a terrain map to see where off-piste (or non-groomed) terrain is located. Make sure it’s open the morning of your ski, and then climb only from the top of a lift (shortening your ‘hike’). Yes, others will have the same idea, so make this one of your first few runs of the day. Afterward, relax with some cruisers. Some resorts, such as Keystone Mountain in Colorado, even offer cat rides to off-piste terrain, allowing skiers to find fresh powder without AT gear.

Can kids AT ski? Sure, though it’s currently hard to find skis and boots to fit kids under age 12 or so. There’s a reason for this: AT skiing is a lot of work. My recommendation (that I’m following with my own kids): introduce the idea of backcountry exploration when kids are small, with snowshoe treks. Then, graduate to AT skiing when kids are teens. Make sure they’re expert skiers on groomed terrain, too.

Can snowboarders AT ‘ski’? Yes, Voile and other makers are now creating split snowboards, which split into two short ‘skis’ for the uphill climb, then come together to create a board for the downhill. It’s the coolest transformer yet!

I’ve heard the argument that AT skiing is popular because skiers can avoid the high cost of lift tickets. While this is true, and while I do think most lift ticket prices have gotten out-of-hand, I don’t think true AT ski lovers climb miles of terrain for this savings. It’s simply too much work to do it for any reason but a love of the outdoors and the sense of freedom. It’s a way to challenge oneself outside of the ski resorts, and well worth the effort of learning a new discipline within alpine skiing.

I toured the Wasatch with Utah Mountain Adventures at no cost, for the purpose of testing AT ski gear.

Skiing in Utah: Eagle Point ski vacation planning

January 16, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

When planning a ski vacation in Utah, families are spoiled for choice. There are over a dozen major resorts in the Salt Lake City area alone, and many of them are probably on your radar. We love Salt Lake ski resorts, but before you make the decision to head to one of the big destination resorts of Utah, consider a little gem in the southern end of the state.

What is Eagle Point, where is it, and why should we go there?

Ready to get your Eagle Point ski vacation planning on? Eagle Point is a small, boutique ski resort just outside of Beaver, Utah. It’s about three hours’ drive from Las Vegas and Salt Lake City, depending on which way you’re coming on I-15, followed by a winding, steep access road that you’ll want to ascend in the daylight. I’m using the word ‘boutique’ in the sense that Eagle Point is small, personalized, and niche, not that it’s upscale…because it’s not. In fact, it’s delightfully rustic, with a rough-around-the-edges feel that makes me think of my childhood ski trips.

Why bring your family all the way to Eagle Point? The easy answer would be, price. Families can still ski Eagle Point for under $50 for an adult lift ticket (around $30 for kids), and the resort’s ski-in, ski-out condos are incredibly affordable. You could spend a week at Eagle Point for a fraction of the cost of a week at a larger ski resort. But an affordable price is not the full story.

Eagle Point is a resort that still retains the friendly, everyone-knows-each-other, hey-welcome-back atmosphere that’s been lost in many places. When you arrive at the check in desk at Canyonside Lodge, you might just be checked in by one of the resort’s enthusiastic owners, and the friendly waitress at the bar just might be your ski instructor the next day. The relatively small staff all know each other and seem to interact like family, and the small size of the resort means your kids will feel right at home in no time.

Lodging at Eagle Point:

I stayed at a condo in Wooded Ridge, which is one of the condo development options at Eagle Point. There are a few full houses to rent, but otherwise, Eagle Point is all condos, many of which are ski-in, ski-out, or close to it. A free shuttle goes back and forth between condos and both base areas every 20 minutes.

My condo slept at least five; we had a bedroom downstairs and a loft with bunk beds for three. It also had a full kitchen and living room with dining space, and ample storage space for ski gear. I loved the views of aspen trees from the outdoor balconies, and the fact that the kitchen was fully stocked with spices, cooking oil, all the pots and pans needed, a crock pot, a dishwasher with detergent, and a full-sized washer and dryer (also with detergent).

Tip: If you want to be close to Canyonside Lodge and its dining options and hot tubs, book a Canyonside area condo. You’ll be ski-in, ski-out on the Canyonside part of the resort. If anyone in your family is a beginner, however, you’ll want to start at Skyline, which will require a shuttle ride (this is explained in more depth below).

At Eagle Point, you’ll cook in your condo most of the time, so definitely stop in Beaver to buy groceries before coming up the mountain. There’s not much in the way of provisions once you’re at Eagle Point, with the exception of a small mercantile and a few dining venues (more on that in a minute). Condo renters have access to two hot tubs, which are outside behind Canyonside Lodge. There are bathrooms to change there, and a fireplace in the dining area where you can warm up after soaking.

Note: There is very limited cell service and no wifi at Eagle Point. I am told wifi is coming in 2018, but for now, plan to be off-line during your stay. Time to get out the board games!

Skiing at Eagle Point:

Eagle Point, like many Utah ski resorts, has two distinct sections, each with its own base area. The Canyonside Lodge, where you check in to your lodging, is the gateway to the expert terrain, served by Lookout lift, and a few miles up the road, the Skyline Lodge is where you’ll find the beginner and intermediate terrain, as well as the ski rentals and lessons. You’ll use the Skyline chair and Monarch chair on that side.

A ski tunnel connects the two sides, and there is a small amount of intermediate runs off Lookout chair, though not as many as we’d like. Everyone in your family really needs to be an expert skier or rider to have fun together for more than a few runs on Lookout. Gates off Lookout lead to backcountry terrain, in cooperation with the forest service, so that’s an option for expert skiers who are prepared to go outside the resort boundary.

Because the Skyline Lodge is at the TOP of the Skyline area and the Canyonside Lodge is at the bottom of the Canyonside area, getting from Canyonside to Skyline requires a shuttle ride. (You can, however, get from Skyline to the Canyonside Lodge on intermediate terrain, through the tunnel followed by a lift.) This would come in handy if the family divided up in the morning and wanted to meet for lunch.) From the Skyline side, it’s possible to ski down to most condos in the resort.

Note: Eagle Point is conservative about grooming runs. The Skyline area with beginner and intermediate terrain will all be groomed, but during my visit, only a few runs were groomed on Canyonside. This makes for a lot of non-groomed black diamonds.

Dining at Eagle Point:

For ski lunches and even breakfast, if you don’t prepare it in your condo, Skyline Lodge has the Skyline Cafe, which serves your basic ski fare. We found three options on the breakfast menu, plus coffee and drinks, and another handful of options at lunch. It’s counter service only. At Canyonside Lodge, the Outpost Grill has a full bar and dining room, with moderate pricing for burgers, wraps, and pizza, and slightly higher prices for steaks, salmon, and pasta dishes. It’s open both lunch and dinner. The food was good here, and I recommend eating out for dinner at least once during your trip, to save on the hassle of cooking in your condo.

Note: if you come back to Canyonside for dinner, remember that the free ‘mountain taxi’ shuttle only runs until 5 pm. You’ll need to drive your car or walk the short distance.

What you sacrifice in the name of low lift ticket prices at Eagle Point:

Great value in pricing comes at a cost, of course. It’s important that parents know what they WON’T find at Eagle Point, so they can make an educated decision for their family. Eagle Point does not have:

Wifi or much cell service: you can get a cell signal at Skyline Lodge area, but that’s it for most carriers. Bring DVDs to watch in the condo, because you won’t have Netflix. You may not even be able to make a call or send a text, so plan accordingly.
Fine dining: the Outpost Grill is friendly and has decently good food, but it is not gourmet.
Convenient access to hot tubs or any access to a health center: the hot tubs at Canyonside Lodge are stand-alone tubs in the snow out back of the building, with a fun, low-key atmosphere. Close to your condo they are probably not.
Terrain for advanced-intermediate skiers and riders. This is a biggie: Eagle Point has a wonderful array of beginner and easy intermediate terrain at Skyline and incredibly steep, ungroomed expert terrain at Canyonside…but not too much in-between.
Easy access from lodge to lodge. (See explanation above.)

What you WILL get is challenging skiing at a great price, with comfortable, mostly convenient lodging and a down-to-earth vibe.

Getting here:

Eagle Point is located 18 windy, steep miles off I-15 past Beaver. Take the access road slowly, as it can be difficult in ice and snow. The commute on I-15 is easy from both Las Vegas and SLC.

I was a guest of Eagle Point for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Paul Marshall/Ski Utah

Where to ski in Utah: Brighton Resort

January 2, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

If you just read my post reviewing Utah skiing at Solitude Mountain Resort, you know that Brighton Resort is its closest neighbor, nestled right next door in Big Cottonwood Canyon outside of Salt Lake City. Both resorts offer incredible ski terrain for experts and backcountry skiers and snowboarders, both offer a friendly, local vibe, and both have enough skiable terrain for a family to be happy for days.

Brighton Resort differs in that it does not offer on-site lodging, apart from private home rentals. There’s a big base area with a day lodge and a separate lodge with gear rentals and a snow sports shop, and a smaller lodge at an adjacent base area on the other end of the parking area. The resorts are only five minutes’ drive apart, so families can certainly stay in the Solitude village if they’re looking to stay in the canyon, and can even ski between the resorts with a resort hopper pass.

So who is Brighton Resort for?

Take a look at the Brighton mountain map, and you’ll see a sea of black diamonds. Like Solitude, Brighton is big and bold, with incredible pitches, glades, bowls, and backcountry for serious, expert skiers and riders. If you’re looking for challenge and seemingly endless skiable terrain during big snow years like 2017 has proven to be, you’ve found your place. But what if you’re a beginner or intermediate skier? The good news is that there are green circle runs even at the top of the resort, a nice touch for those who get tired of always being at or near the base while they’re learning. You’ll find green runs off the Snake Creek chair, and even off the Milly chair, which also has some of the steepest, deepest runs in the resort. Intermediate skiers and riders will want to focus on the blue-friendly Crest and Majestic chairs; this is also where you’ll find a surprisingly big selection of terrain park features.

If you’re an expert skier or rider:

Trust us, you could do laps all day on the Milly Express chair, and never get tired of the terrain. Your legs will, however, get tired. This chair was our favorite, with double-blacks on both sides of the chair, hike-to terrain along the ridge, and back bowls accessible for backcountry skiers with touring skis. Of course, all of this is dependent on conditions, and it’s essential to look at signage to see what’s open. This is big avalanche country, and the mountains should be respected.

Over on the Great Western chair, some of the steepest pitches take you down wide, mogul-filled black diamonds, and there are more tree glades with powder stashes along the far end of the resort. However, some of my favorite skiing all day at Brighton was found in what I deemed the ‘peaceful powder forest’, located near the top of Snake Creek and Crest. The woods here seemed to go on and on, with lots of powder between the trees and a more relaxing pitch.

If there’s less snow, you’ll definitely find less variety, but even then, the groomers along Crest and Big Western and Milly proved excellent. I loved the rollers and gentle curves to these runs, which got great sun throughout the day. We opted to break for lunch at the base of Milly, where the newest lodge of Brighton was far less crowded and offered excellent burgers and soups.

Planning your day at Brighton Resort:

As noted above, there is no overnight lodging at Brighton, so it will probably be a day trip for you. If you’re driving up Big Cottonwood Canyon (i.e., not staying at Solitude or in a nearby home rental), plan at least 25 minutes on an average day, and up to an hour on a holiday weekend…the traffic goes slowly on really great ski days.

Tip: Big Cottonwood Canyon is 15 miles of pretty curvy, mountainous roadway, and 4×4 drive or chains ARE required fairly regularly. You can opt to take a bus from the base of the canyon, where there’s a convenient park and ride parking lot for your car.

Because Brighton Resort is a day use resort, the parking lot does fill up on busy days. We skied Brighton on a holiday weekend after a big dump of snow, and were glad we arrived just after 9 am…by 11 am, the parking lot was completely full and people were parking on the road.

Lift tickets are under $80 per day per adult, which is relatively reasonable, by ski resort standards. Better yet, you can ‘reload’ your day pass the next day for $10 less. Kids 10 and under are FREE at Brighton, which is a fantastic perk. To save money, consider a Brighton pass if you plan to ski regularly there, because it includes free ski bus access, or, if you have a pass elsewhere, see if it’s a M.A.X. Pass resort and do a M.A.X. Pass add-on for the best value. You can get a Solitude-Brighton ticket for under $100, and ski between the two resorts, but I bet you’ll have enough to keep you busy right at Brighton.

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Disclosure: I visited Brighton as a guest of the resort for the purpose of reviewing M.A.X. Pass resorts. All opinions are my own.

Year-round outdoor exploration from St. George Utah with kids

November 14, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Need a home base for your Zion National Park adventure? How about a launching point for fall and winter outdoor exploration of Southern Utah? St. George fits the bill, with red rock canyons, mountain bike and hiking trails, and Virgin River. Families can bike, rock scramble, discover new parks, and even get some culture in St. George. Here’s what not to miss, awaiting discovery just outside your hotel room door.

Outdoor exploration from St. George Utah with kids:

Zion National Park:

Without a doubt, Zion National Park is St. George’s biggest draw, and for good reason. And guess what? It’s even better in the off-season. Explore Zion in the fall and winter to escape the crowds, and don’t worry, you can still hike the Narrows in winter. LINK From St. George, drive to Springdale, then park at the main visitor’s center and shuttle into the park from there during the busier seasons, making sure to hop on and off along the way for day hiking opportunities.

Hike Washington County:

When Zion gets crowded, head to the following adjacent trails:

Red Cliffs Desert Reserve: Here, you can try the Babylon Arch Trail, where the sandy, open terrain transports you to another planet (think Mars). It’s only a mile and change, so provided you time your hike to avoid the peak heat of the day, you’ll be fine. You can also head to the Elephant Arch in the reserve for a longer, sandier hike of almost four miles. If the kids want to dabble in a little of Southern Utah’s famed canyoneering on a trail that’s still just over a mile long, head to the Red Reef Trail, where they can do some scrambling as you hike. If you want to make a day of it and really get your hike on, the Red Reef Trail is part of the Cottonwood Canyon Wilderness system (allowing you to do an almost six mile loop instead).

Snow Canyon State Park: For us, the most intriguing hike in Snow Canyon was the Pioneer Names Trail, where yes, you can observe the names etched into the rock by early Mormon pioneers. I guess if graffiti is old enough, it’s historical! The north trail head to the site provides the closest access, but it’s a short trail either way. You can also hike to the Petrified Dunes in Snow Canyon, which is located in the center of the park, offering amazing views once you’re at the site of the petrified Navajo Sandstone cliffs.

Need to stay closer to town? Head to Dixie Red Rock, a.k.a. Pioneer Park, overshadowing St. George. It’s fun to pack a picnic and watch the avid mountain climbers who flock here.

Additional tip: Have time to go further afield? Cedar Breaks National Monument doesn’t get enough love! Located about an hour and a half away near Brian Head, Cedar Breaks provides fantastic canyons and forest to explore. In winter, this is a snowmobiling mecca, and in summer, this paradise at 10,000 feet is ideal for night sky gazing, hiking, and climbing.

Cycle and mountain bike:

The greater St. George area has over 60 miles of bike paths and literally hundreds of miles of single track and slick rock trails. Beginner mountain bikers who don’t want to be bored need to head to Barrel Roll, which is as fun as it sounds. Located in the Santa Clara River Reserve, Barrel Roll delivers views and twists and turns while not being too steep to handle. From there, advance to the Wire Mesa Trail, located just outside Zion. This single track is more mountainous (with a bit of shade as a bonus) and offers views. If you’re an expert, you have a slew of picks, the most epic undoubtedly Nephi’s Twist at Hurricane Cliffs, a steep, technical track that frankly, is way above my ability level (I’ll leave it to the experts). And don’t forget about the state parks for mountain biking bliss: Snow Canyon State Park is a good option (just double check that bikes are allowed on the trail of your choice.)

Weather not cooperating? Go museum-hopping:

While St. George enjoys near endless sunshine, there will be those days when the skies cloud up. Discover the early Jurassic dinosaur tracks at St. George’s Dinosaur Discovery Site at Johnson Farm, then head to the Rosenbruch Wildlife Museum nearby. Young kids will love the St. George Children’s Museum where they have the run of twelve rooms of hands-on exhibits where they can lose themselves in imaginative play.

Enjoy the water:

From late spring to early fall, boating and swimming is an option, thanks to Southern Utah’s warm water and air temperatures. Quail Creek State Park, Gunlock State Park, and Sand Hollow State Park all offer boating and swimming. The Quail Creek and Sand Hollow reservoirs are great for fishing, too (don’t forget to get all boats, and even tubes, inspected first). You can also ride the dunes of Sand Mountain in an off-highway vehicle at Sand Hollow State Park.

Want a different experience? The Virgin River cuts through the red rock landscape of Springdale, providing the perfect way to cool off. To escape the summer masses, head to Falls Park (Sheep Bridge). You’ll enjoy sandy beaches and perfect jump-off rocks (always check depth before jumping!). Families can find shallow pools for kids, and the more daring can find rapids to ride.

Want more space to yourself? As long as your vehicle has the clearance of an SUV, you can bump your way along a dirt road to Toquerville Falls, where an easy hike lands you at the base of a desert oasis. You’ll want your camera ready for these cascading falls over the rock, but you can take a dip, too.

This post is written in partnership with Visit St. George and Travel Mindset. All opinions remain my own.

Dinosaur National Monument with Kids

July 4, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Spanning both Utah and Colorado, Dinosaur National Monument is a national park destination too massive to tackle in a day, or even a few days. During our visit, we opted to check out only one section of the park, on the Utah side, but we tasted just enough of this park to know we’ll be back. Here’s how to plan a trip to Dinosaur National Monument with kids:

Know the lay of the land:

There are two visitors centers in the monument: Quarry and Canyon, which also represent the major points of access to the park. Quarry is located on Highway 40 in Utah near Vernal, at Jensen. It’s a short drive from the highway. Canyon is located further east on 40 on the Colorado side, with Deerlodge Park even further east. The Gates of Lodore access is on the opposite end of the park, to the north off 34 in Colorado. The entire park is filled with rivers and canyons (the Green River as well as the Yampa). Here’s what to do at each section.

Quarry:

This is your spot for viewing the dinosaur fossils Dinosaur National Monument is known for. Start at the visitors center and watch the short film on the discovery of dino fossils, then check out the exhibits until you’re ready to board the free open-air shuttle to the Quarry Exhibit Hall. This is a must-do: here, you’ll see the great wall of dinosaur bones embedded in the rock (preserved in this way so visitors can see how the ‘log jams’ of bones came to be, under layers of soil). You can even touch some of the 149-million-year-old fossils. Additional exhibits explain what you’re looking at, as do park rangers on duty.

After shuttling up to the exhibit hall, we recommend taking the short Fossil Discovery Trail on the way back down. It’s not shaded, so plan on this one early in the day, but it’s downhill, and there are three spur trails that will lead you to more fossils and even some petroglyphs along the trail. Take the free audio driving tour next, which leads you to more petroglyphs, or the longer Sound of Silence Trail or Desert Voices Trail. Shaded picnic areas are adjacent to the visitor center.

Canyon:

Aptly named, this is the gateway to Dinosaur National Monument’s canyon country. There are no dino fossils in this section of the park. You can drive the 31-mile Harpers Corner Road and hike a Harpers Corner (a short hike suited for kids). This section of the park is open seasonally however, as it gets very wet and sometimes impassible.

Deerlodge Park is the launching point for Yampa River trips, whereas the Gates of Lodore area is the launching point for Green River trips.

If you want to add a river rafting trip to your exploration of Dinosaur National Monument, we suggest going on OARS Rafting’s Gates of Lodore or Yampa rafting trip, to be fully immersed in the park in ways not possible by car on one’s own.

Two ways to ski backcountry terrain on your next ski trip

February 26, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’re one of those skiers or snowboarders who looks up at the most distant peak from the chairlift and says, “How do I get up there?” or notes tracks in fresh powder and wishes you’d put them there, you may want to elevate your next ski trip to include a day of backcountry terrain. Or, if you have teens (16 or older) who are yearning to learn what AT or touring skiing is all about, it might be time to try a backcountry experience as a family.

Backcountry skiing off-piste and outside ski resort boundaries can expand your ski horizons exponentially, but it’s crucial to go with a guide until you’ve become trained in reading snow conditions and have the right gear (which often includes an avalanche beacon, shovel, probe, and AT or Alpine Touring skis and boots with skins and a backpack to put it all in). I explored two gorgeous backcountry regions with two fantastic guide services, and highly recommend them both.

Two ways to ski backcountry terrain on your next ski trip

Alpenglow Expeditions, North Lake Tahoe:

Alpenglow Expeditions operates out of Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows in California, and offers both backcountry tours and a variety of snow safety courses. I joined them for a full day in the Squaw Valley backcountry, where we did two laps of the National Geographic Bowl.

I arrived at their office in the Village at Squaw Valley at 8:30 am, ready to ski…minus the gear. Alpenglow can outfit you, which is nice if you don’t already own AT gear. It allows you to try a full backcountry experience before committing to the equipment. The guides at Alpenglow set me up with a ski pack with all the necessities, plus AT skis and boots. I brought my own helmet, goggles, lunch, water, and ski apparel.

The nice thing about Alpenglow’s location is that you can ride the Squaw lifts to where you need to start, saving time and effort. We headed out by 9 am on the Squaw lifts and reached the top of Granite Chief lift by 9:30 am. From here, we boot packed to the top of Granite Chief Peak (approximately a 20 minute, fairly strenuous hike) with our skis strapped on our backs. At the ridge, the snow was fabulous (despite fairly challenging conditions on the lift-served areas). We transitioned into our skis (the guides will help you do this if you haven’t skied AT before). We skied down the bowl, and at the bottom, transitioned again to skin up the trail that led to a side ridge, where we could ski back down to the Granite Chief lift. The skinning uphill took longer…probably an hour or so, and if you haven’t used skins on your skis before, there is a learning curve here. Your heel is freed and the skins on your skis give you traction, so the climb feels similar to cross-country skiing (but a bit more difficult).

When we reached the ridge, we skied down to the chair and did it again! This time, we boot packed a bit farther to explore a different descent, and at the bottom, we enjoyed our packed lunch in the sunshine. We achieved two laps by 1:30 pm, and were back at the village by 2:30 pm. We probably had time for one more lap, but my legs didn’t have the power!

The day proved to be an excellent introduction to Squaw’s backcountry, and since my teenage boys are interested in exploring terrain outside ski area boundaries, I’d definitely sign them up next time. All tours are individual (with either just yourself or just your group) so you can customize as needed. All guides are highly trained in avalanche certification and first aid, and carry radios. I was given an avi beacon and shown how to use it.

Ski Utah Interconnect, Cottonwood Canyons

Headed to Utah instead of Tahoe? I also tried out Ski Utah’s Interconnect tour, which allows you to check out backcountry terrain on your downhill (Alpine) skis. You can read about the Ski Utah Interconnect here, and watch a helpful video starring Deb Lovci, lead guide, but even after doing your research, the Interconnect is hard to explain. It really needs to be experienced. It’s part backcountry adventure, part (permitted) rope ducking, part on-piste hidden tracks, and part off-piste (as in way, way off). No matter what way you look at it, you’re in for seven hours of breathtaking views of the Wasatch Front Range and Heber Valley. Along the way, you get a ski resort sampler platter, with 1-3 runs in each of Deer Valley, Park City, Snowbird, Alta, Brighton and Solitude.

You start your day at Deer Valley Ski Resort, where you meet up in a base lodge and are briefed by your guides. As noted, you can use your own downhill gear, but you’re given a beacon to use for the day. In contrast with my Alpenglow trip, I didn’t need a shovel or probe of my own, so I could use my own small backpack, and I didn’t need to carry a lunch, as it’s provided on the trip.

We started out by skiing a few Deer Valley groomers to get warmed up, then ducked the rope (with permission) and traversed through the backcountry to Park City resort, where we rode another chair up before skiing off-piste through pristine powder toward our next resort on our itinerary. We boot packed a few short times (holding our skis) before making it to Solitude for a delicious lunch at their Roundhouse mid-mountain lodge, which serves up Himalayan mountain cuisine (included). We rode the lifts here to access a backside bowl to Brighton, then rode up again to take the most beautiful traverse, the Highway to Heaven trail toward Alta and Snowbird.

This part of the journey definitely proved most strenuous, but we were rewarded with more gorgeous backcountry on the descent. We skied through Alta and reached Snowbird by 3:30 pm. Skiing six resorts in one day definitely made for a long ski tour, but it didn’t feel that long, thanks to some lift access along the way.

What to know before you book:

For both of these tours, it’s important to be a strong skier, able to ski ungroomed runs with confidence (intermediate or advanced). Perhaps even more importantly, you do need to be fit. The uphill boot packing, skinning, and/or sidestepping will work up a sweat and leave you legs like jell-o! For the Interconnect, you need to be a skier, not a snowboarder, due to restrictions on snowboarding in several of the resorts.

If you’re used to getting plenty of exercise and are a decent (don’t need to be great) skier, don’t hesitate to try one of these tours! It will open your eyes to new skiing possibilities, and greatly enhance your ski trip. Take a day to enjoy the backcountry, then return on-piste with more confidence.

Call the office of either tour to ask any specific questions; they’re eager to help walk you through the process and explain what gear you’ll need and what lift tickets might be required. Let them know of any limitations of your group and be honest with them about capabilities, and they can answer any doubts you may have.

Want a taste of non-lift-served terrain by exploring some side country (within ski area boundaries)? You can expand your limits on downhill skis by signing up for a Hidden Tracks guided day. I checked this out at Solitude Mountain Resort and had a blast with my private guide, who could show me all the hidden stashes and boot-pack trails to (mostly) uncharted terrain. He showed me Solitude’s many gated areas, and we hiked to several pitches of fresh powder. The rest of the time, we traversed and side-slipped to new-to-me slopes within boundary. At Solitude, you can opt for a full day or half day tour; I went half-day, which gave me a nice balance of challenging terrain and some nice groomers after my legs got tired.

Where to ski in Utah: Solitude Mountain Resort

February 7, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Solitude Mountain Resort is one of those ski resorts that grows on you. The first time I skied Solitude was as part of a demo day experience, and I only traversed part of the mountain. Still, I enjoyed it. The next time I visited, my teenage son and I zipped all over the mountain during an epic powder day…hard to dislike that! The third time I skied this Big Cottonwood Canyon resort, the snow was so-so, but hidden stashes remained, and the true peace and tranquility to be found here won me over.

What to expect at Solitude Mountain Resort:

Let’s start with what not to expect: don’t expect crowds, as Solitude really does live up to its name. You also don’t need to expect the usual high lift ticket prices. Even if you opt to buy tickets at the window or online, instead of getting a M.A.X. Pass, Solitude lift tickets are on the reasonable side, comparatively speaking. And I have visited during a long holiday weekend.

Instead, at Solitude, you can expect a local vibe, despite the presence of a base village with lodging for out-of-town guests. There’s an emphasis on off-piste (off the run) skiing and even backcountry skiing (out of bounds), which means the mountain ‘skis bigger than it is’. What do I mean by this? At 1200 acres, Solitude is not considered a very large resort, but if you include all the glade skiing, powder bowls, and off-piste options, which exist depending on snow conditions, it’s very large indeed.

The lifts at Solitude are spaced out enough that some traversing will be necessary at times, but the newest chair, Summit, is not only fast but offers incredible views as you ascend. The village is compact, with condo-style lodging, an inn, a few restaurants, gear rentals, and a snow sports shop, and extremely cozy.

How to plan your trip to Solitude:

I love skiing Utah resorts because so many of them are within an easy commute of Salt Lake City and the international airport. Solitude was within 45 minutes of downtown during my visits. From the base of Big Cottonwood Canyon, it’s only 12 miles. On one trip, because my son and I were skiing multiple resorts during my second time at Solitude, we stayed at the entrance to the canyon, at Residence Inn by Marriott. It was comfortable, convenient, had an excellent complimentary breakfast, and was only about 25 minutes from the Solitude parking lot. I highly recommend this hotel if you want to stay central to both Big and Little Cottonwood canyons.

If your ski trip will be solely at Solitude and/or Solitude and its neighbor, Brighton, definitely stay in the Solitude Village. I stayed two nights at the Inn at Solitude on my third visit and loved the proximity to the mountain. My fourth-floor balcony literally overlooked the Apex Chair, and the heated, outdoor hot tub and pool soothed sore muscles each evening. The Inn at Solitude is just steps from The Hungry Squirrel, which became my go-to apres-ski watering hole, and there are spa services on-site, too. St. Bernard’s restaurant, directly inside the inn, offers an Alpine-style buffet dinner with charcuterie, hot soups, roasts and cobblers every night, and serves an equally satisfying buffet breakfast each morning. The atmosphere is warm and relaxing; we enjoyed drinks in the Library Bar seating area outside the dining room before our leisurely meal. St. Bernard’s was a definite highlight of our time at Solitude. You also get access to Club Solitude by staying at the Inn at Solitude, which has additional pools, a lounge area with video games and a movie screening room, exercise spaces and saunas.

As noted, the village is small, but has what you need (eliminating any need to commute down the canyon for food or supplies). You can find a very small convenience store right at the entrance to Solitude by the real estate office; this is not a grocery store by any means, but does have wine, beer, convenience items and toiletry items. If you are staying in the village and want a second option in addition to St. Bernard’s, head to Honeycomb Grille for excellent American bistro cuisine or to the small pizzeria. Every option is within walking distance of everything else.

You’ll be ski-in, ski-out at Solitude, and only a five-minute drive from Brighton. There are buses that connect the two as well (and you can ski between them…more on that in a minute).

Getting your bearings at Solitude:

There are two base areas at Solitude, at Solitude Village and Moonbeam base area. It’s nice that both have parking lots, to spread out day guests, and both have base lodges with ticket sales and food services. Moonbeam is home to the snowsports center, which is where to go if you’re taking a lesson or dropping off kids for lessons. There are some food venues there, as well as bathrooms.

The village has additional food services, a rental shop and tuning shop, and all the lodging options (which include condos in addition to the inn). A good lunch option can be found at Last Chance Lodge, right on the snow at the edge of the village, where you can find excellent made-to-order tacos and a salad bar. Hang tight though, because the absolute best lunch spot is at mid-mountain (read on to find out where).

Skiing Solitude:

If you enjoy skiing off-piste, Solitude is heaven. The Summit chair drops you off at the entry to Honeycomb Canyon, named, it turns out, not after Utah’s honey production, but after the many mines that dotted the canyon a century ago. Multiple gated chutes connect with the bowl, giving skiers and snowboarders a very long and powdery run to the base near Eagle chair. There’s also a front face at Summit, plenty of tree skiing, and groomer runs for intermediate level.

Tip: if you’re a beginner, pay attention to notices at the base of each chair. Solitude is very good about placing signage where beginner terrain will be lacking, so you can know before going up.

Additional glade skiing is excellent off the older (and slower moving) Sunrise chair, and lots of nice blue groomers can be found off Moonbeam and Eagle. If you’re willing to hike, even more bowl skiing opens up, and backcountry skiers will be happy too: just look for the signage indicating when you need your own backcountry shovel, avalanche beacon, and probe to continue. (This is a good indication that you may need to hike out of the run, too.)

Overall, look at signage no matter your ski ability, and be ready to ask for advice from locals…there will be plenty of skiers and snowboarders around who are familiar with the mountain. If you have a M.A.X. pass or combined ticket for Solitude and Brighton, know that you can ski between the resorts via the Solbright run. And, er, if you accidentally ski that run and end up at the wrong base area without a combined ticket, the nice lifties will let you return via the lift…once.

If you’re an intermediate to advanced skier and want to open up more terrain for yourself, book one of Solitude’s Hidden Tracks mornings. Operating as snow and weather permits, Hidden Tracks is an opportunity to ski with a local instructor who can show you all those hidden stashes and glades you might have missed. And there are a lot! During my Hidden Tracks experience, my guide Josh described skiing off-piste at Solitude as ‘a game of gates’. What he meant: there are gated entrances to off-piste terrain all over the place! These gated areas are maintained by ski patrol for safety and opened and closed at their discretion. Once you know where they all are, as well as which ones will require boot packing (or hiking) to get to the great snow, you’ll be an informed skier who can continue to enjoy these gates the rest of your trip. Have adventurous teens? This session is ideal for them to know their options!

At a mountain like Solitude, which has so much backcountry and side country terrain, Hidden Tracks is well worth your time and money. And while it’s not a lesson, if you’d like instruction or pointers during the morning, your guide will be happy to accommodate you.

Tip: definitely plan to eat your lunch at the Roundhouse mid-mountain between the Moonbeam and Eagle lifts. This circular lodge has a lot of history, and serves just two types of food: Wasatch mountain food (Utah-inspired soups, stews, and burgers), and Himalayan mountain food (wonderful curries and rice dishes). The food is excellent, and we found there was plenty of room…no hunting for a table at lunch.

Solitude lift tickets:

As with all ski vacations, ease the burden on your wallet by planning your lift ticket purchase ahead of time at Solitude. If you only plan to spend a few days, buy multi-day tickets online ahead of time to save money off the approximate $85 adult day pass price. There’s also a Solbright day pass, which gives you access to all of Brighton, too. Personally, I think you’ll be busy enough at just one or the other, but the flexibility is nice.

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Disclosure: We skied Solitude as guests of the resort, for the purpose of reviewing the M.A.X. Pass option. All opinions are my own.