adventures for kids - Pitstops for Kids

Belize adventure vacation: What to do with a week in San Ignacio Belize

January 4, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

If the first thing to comes to mind when you think of Belize is beaches and cays, it’s time to rethink this small country that’s big on outdoor adventure. For those who venture into the interior, especially the west side of Belize in the Cayo District, rivers, caves, Mayan ruins and culture abounds. Here’s how to spend a week or more in the Cayo District, based in the town of San Ignacio.

Belize adventure vacation: San Ignacio Belize

Why base yourself in San Ignacio? This small town of around 9,000 is within minutes of Mayan sites, and less than an hour’s drive from some of the best caving, tubing, hiking and canoeing in Belize. San Ignacio is friendly, easily explored on foot, and offers up what I believe to be the best boutique hotel in the region: San Ignacio Resort Hotel. (See our full review of the San Ignacio Resort Hotel here.)

You’ll want to rent a car or arrange for a hotel shuttle transfer from the international airport near Belize City to San Ignacio, which is about 80 miles to the west, near the Guatemalan border. Unless you plan to book guided tours daily, which frankly, is what we opted to do, you will definitely want your own car to explore the Cayo District. Here’s what not to miss:

Xunantunich and Cahal Pech Mayan ruins:

Both these archeological sites are rich in historical and cultural significance, and both are within easy distance of San Ignacio. In fact, you could walk to Cahal Pech from the San Ignacio Resort Hotel. Xunantunich is about a 25-minute drive and is the larger of the two sites. To get there, you’ll need to cross the Macal River via a small hand-propelled ferry system, which is free but requires passengers to exit the vehicle and stand on the moving ferry platform while crossing. The river is small and the process takes less than five minutes. From there, follow the road one mile to the parking area and ticket booth, then climb the hill to follow in the footsteps of the Mayan people who once lived here.

I highly recommend hiring a guide to tour Xunantunich and Cahal Pech, as we know we would not have understood half of what we looked at without Cruz, our trusty guide from San Ignacio Resort Hotel. From the main courtyard of the ruins, you can take in the ceremonial buildings of the priests and the living quarters of the royal Mayan families who once inhabited this region, and you can climb the steep steps to take in the views of the surrounding jungle. Cahal Pech is smaller, but allows for even more exploration of the interiors of the ruins; we wound our way along ancient corridors and through archways to one-time bed chambers. At both sites, be sure to note the ball courts where games were played, and peek into the small museum space at Cahal Pech.

Note: visitors to this region can also tour the famous Tikal ruins in Guatemala; it’s a short drive to the border for a border crossing, then about a two-hour drive. Your guide will hand over the reins of your day trip to a Guatemalan guide at the border.

Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve:

I had no idea that a pine forest existed in Belize, until we toured Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve. Located at about 3000 feet elevation, the reserve is located about an hour and a half from San Ignacio along pretty rugged (at times) dirt roads. Yes, it’s a long drive, but once inside the park, we found some of our favorite outdoor attractions in Belize. The change of scenery alone is stunning! While guided tours of this reserve are optimal, it’s definitely do-able to drive yourself as long as your vehicle can navigate the rough roads. You’ll want a good map of the area, and be advised that Google won’t help you once in the park.

The Rio Frio Cave is located about 11 miles down the main dirt road of the park, where a cavernous opening leads to what the Mayans once described as the Underworld. It forms a sort of tunnel here, with the Rio Frio pooling and winding through it. Nearby, the Rio On (there are lots of small rivers in this area) awaits, with a series of deep and shallow pools ready-made for adventurous kids (and their parents) to explore. Stop at the turnout for the River On Pools, where you can go to a picnic area and overlook to the left (where a series of steep stairs take you to the river and the lower pools) or to the right, where you can access a gentle trail to the upper pools. We chose to descend the stairs and climb and leap our way up the river, sampling pools as we went, but there is a small, rudimentary changing area and a sandy slope to the pools if you opt for the easier path. The River On Pools were our all-time favorite activity in Belize, and we could easily have spent all afternoon there. Perhaps because they’re difficult to get to, the pools are not crowded at all when we arrived right after lunch on a weekday in February.

Closer to the entrance of the park, you can also follow signage to 1000 Foot Falls, the impressive waterfall you’ve likely seen on postcards and posters of Belize. It’s a decent detour on another rough dirt road (it took us about 30 minutes to get there from the main dirt road), and features an overlook where you can snap photos of the falls and watch for hawks and raptors circulating along the steep, impressive ridgelines. While we were impressed by the view, we wished some trail networks existed here, because after the long drive, we were itching to get some exercise and spend more time along the ridge.

Note: there are a number of eco lodges in the park, but if you opt to stay in one, remember how remote they are! Once settled, you likely won’t be venturing throughout the Cayo District much until you depart.

St. Herman’s Cave & Blue Hole:

No, not that Blue Hole…the one everyone snorkels and scuba dives in is located on the ocean, whereas this Blue Hole is a delightful swimming hole deep in the jungle. Start by touring St. Herman’s cave, for which a guide is required. We loved this tour for several reasons: first, it’s unlike caves in the US with their guard rails, lights, and paved paths. St. Herman’s cave is navigated by climbing, hiking, and sometimes crawling through the limestone passageways. Secondly, the Mayan history is here is fabulous: you can spot shards of pottery and some large pieces of vases and dishes in the cave, as well as ancient remnants of ash and charcoal from campfires. The cave was once used for rituals and the space resonates with history.

It takes about 1.5 hours to navigate the cave, and by the time you emerge on the other side, you will be hot and sweaty (yes, this cave is warm!). This is when to go swimming at Blue Hole! There are also four distinct hiking trails through the jungle here, all part of the Blue Hole National Park, so if you didn’t come with a guide (and therefore can only peek into St. Herman’s cave) you can enjoy the trails at your leisure. There are also guided tubing tours through the cave, though personally, we thought it more fun and more peaceful to cave spelunk away from the splashing, noisy groups.

Note: ATM cave is one of the most popular in the region, and while we did not tour it, we were advised that St. Herman’s is more technical and more challenging to navigate. If you would prefer something a bit more relaxed while still beautiful and impressive, ATM may be the better option for you.

We spent four full days in San Ignacio and barely scratched the surface of all there is to do here. In addition to the tours described above, cultural tours of Mayan women’s co-ops (where traditional cooking can be learned) and San Ignacio (where the art of Mayan chocolate-making is demonstrated and sampled) should not be missed. The latter can be arranged on your own as you walk through town, but the former requires a guide. There are also Macal River canoe trips, additional caving options, and the Green Iguana Conservation Project, located at San Ignacio Resort Hotel. (See our review of the hotel for a full description of this on-site project.)

Guided tours can be booked downtown, but we highly recommend arranging your tours through the concierge at San Ignacio Resort Hotel, who will take the time to describe your options and make the experience seamless. Tours are kept to your own family group, so you get a personalized experience every time, and if you book multiple tours, they do their best to give you the same guide each day, so you establish a great report and friendship. You don’t need to be a guest of the resort to utilize their expertise, though I do recommend staying here!

Do you have a favorite Cayo District outdoor adventure? Share in the comments!

Wet Planet Whitewater adventure rafting near Columbia River Gorge

May 25, 2015 By Sharlene Earnshaw

Julie Henning runs Road Trips for Families, a resource for families love to get out on the open road and let their adventures unfold.

Fed by underground aquifers and the glacial melt of nearby Mount Adams, the second-tallest mountain in Washington State, the White Salmon River never runs dry. A brisk 40 degrees, anyone venturing out on the river encouraged to wear a wetsuit, booties, fleece, a splash jacket and anything but cotton.

Running fast and high in the spring melt, the river was generating between Class I and Class IV rapids when I embarked on a half-day rafting adventure with Wet Planet Whitewater in mid-April. Wet Planet Whitewater is a rafting and kayaking outfitter located in Husum, Washington just off the Columbia Gorge Natural Scenic Area near Hood River, Oregon.

After receiving safety instruction and practicing paddling techniques on terra firma, our group of four women and one guide dropped into the middle of the rapids six miles upstream at the BZ Corner launch site. Thrilling as much as invigorating, we passed under majestic pines and along waterfalls tumbling into the river canyon that was once a lava tube (in fact, we made a brief stop into a shallow basalt cave formed by lava as it cooled millions of years ago).

Depending on the time of year the White Salmon River runs faster or slower (but never dry). In the summer months, groups may have the opportunity to make a 10-food drop down Husum Falls. Too dangerous during our visit, we gladly made a small portage around the falls as the rafts were roped downriver—a group of kayakers received our collective cheers as we watched them plummet through this rocky passage.

At this point in the trip, true thrill seekers may opt to jump into calmer waters from atop the Husum Street Bridge. If you decide to mark this off your bucket list, keep in mind the water temperature and know you might be chilly until the sun dries your clothes.

Immediately following Husum Falls and the bridge jumping is “the rattlesnake,” a series of rapids where Rattlesnake Creek runs into the White Salmon River. It’s here where rafters have the opportunity to “ride the bull,” a maneuver where everyone moves to the front edge of the raft and plunges feet-first into a concave wave of whitewater. Our guide described this experience as nature’s nasal cleanse and I ended up swallowing and then spitting out a giant gulp of the river.

Wet Planet Whitewater photographers meet up with the rafts at different points along the river and capture groups mid-adventure. The sequence of before/during/after shots of our group “riding the bull” were my favorite (for a laugh, click through some of the shots posted on the Wet Planet Whitewater flickr stream).

The remaining two miles of the eight-mile run remained scenic, but a bit calmer (more waterfalls, majestic pines, red tail hawks circling from above). Our guide explained how the area was impacted by recent flooding and talked about the history and controversy around the removal of a dam that transformed Northwestern Lake into Northwestern Park (and, consequently, led to a resurgence of salmon and steelhead populations in the White Salmon River).

Traveling back to Wet Planet Whitewater by van, we changed into dry clothes and reviewed the photos of our trip. Visitors in the summer months are encouraged to linger over a burger and a beverage on the shaded deck of the Wet Planted Whitewater café. Day-trips include a riverside lunch, but it’s still fun to linger and recount the day’s adventure.

Worth noting is the minimum age requirement for the half-day trip (rafters must be ten and older, and sometimes sixteen or eighteen depending on the trip). That said, Wet Planet Whitewater offers outdoor programs, adventure camps, and youth kayak camps specifically designed with kids in mind.

Please enjoy this video, embedded with photos and sound from our adventure on the White Salmon River. Special thanks to our Instructor and Trip Leader Giani Benevento for his interview and insight.

Date last visited: April 2015

Distance from the interstate: 15 minutes from Highway 84/downtown Hood River, Oregon. Note: You will need $1 to cross the Hood River Bridge between Oregon and Washington.

Pricing: Pricing varies based on the length and duration of the trip (note the minimum age requirements). I participated on the $65/person Half Day trip on the White Salmon River. Food is available seasonally at the Wet Planet Café.

Accommodations: Lodging is available in Hood River. For families, the best bet is the Hood River Inn or a vacation home available through the Oak Street Hotel.

Directions: Wet Planet Whitewater is located at 860 Highway 141 in Husum, Washington. From Oregon Highway 84 take the Button Bridge Road exit and cross over the Columbia River on the Hood River Bridge. In Washington State, take the first left onto State Highway 14 (Lewis and Clark Highway) and then turn right onto State Highway 141. Continue 6 miles on 141. Wet Planet Whitewater is located on the right-hand side of the road.

I received a complimentary half-day rafting trip on the White Salmon River from Wet Planet Whitewater for the purposes of this review. All opinions are my own.

Tofino whale watching with Remote Passages

August 20, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

I’d heard the West Coast of Vancouver Island called the Galapagos of the Northwest, and never is that more apparent than while on the water, whether families are exploring tide pools, kayaking, or in this case, on the open ocean on a Remote Passages whale watch in Tofino BC.

Tofino whale watching:

Our Tofino whale watch with Remote Passages just may have been the crown jewel on the treasure that was our Vancouver Island trip. Over 2 1/2 hours long, they call it a Whale Watch Plus, and once you’ve experienced it, it’s obvious why: not only did we enjoy a gray and humpback whale watch, but also observed seals, sea lions, sea otters, puffins, sea stars, bald eagles, and jellyfish (and I’m probably forgetting something). We were there in time to ‘meet’ Tofino’s resident whales, but in migratory seasons, they’re even more abundant (and can include orcas). Note: all photos in this post are actual documentation of wildlife viewed, taken by me.

In addition to the abundance of wildlife viewed, what set our Remote Passages whale watch apart from any we’d experienced before is their Zodiac boat transportation and their guide expertise. Zodiacs seat only 12-14 passengers, and are open-air (a closed cabin one is available as well), allowing for unobstructed 360 degree views of the bay, harbor, and open sea. Unlike larger whale watch vessels, in which one side of the boat sees a spout and the other misses out (or runs scrambling to see), on a Zodiac, you’re literally right on the water, able to see everything. (This makes it ideal for young kids.)

Our experience started at 8:30 am for our 9 am whale watch, during which we were shown an orientation video that described the wildlife and ecosystem of the Tofino area and the Clayoquot Sound. We then donned full expedition jump suits for our journey. These are a full jacket and pant combo, so guests don’t really need to worry about what to wear on their whale watch. Just make sure you’re in sturdy shoes and have a light sweatshirt or long-sleeved shirt on under. The adult version has a built-in life jacket, and the kids’ version is a two-part ensemble: pants and jacket, with a regular life jacket on over. Remote Passages also offers fleece gloves and knit hats if desired.

Our captain and guide, Tyson, guided us onto the Zodiac, where we all had a perfect view of the ocean and surrounding (breathtaking) landscape. We cruised first in-between the small islands dotted around the sound, where Tyson stopped to show us the huge kelp beds whales like to feed on. Almost immediately, we saw the spout of a gray whale. Since whales typically spout and rise above the water 3-4 times before diving deep, we stayed close to view it for about 15 minutes, cutting off the engine and floating peacefully as we watched the whale rise and fall beautifully. I can’t tell you how wonderful it was for Toby, age 7, to be able to see the whale so easily; he’s usually scrambling for a better view for things like this, since he’s the shortest person in most groups. There was no stress to see, no rush to get anywhere, and we all just oohed and awed as Tyson told us more about these amazing animals. (Fun fact: many of the same whales return to Tofino year after year, and up to 200 stay here all season while their counterparts migrate farther north. Remote Passages guides can identify individual whales by the pattern of their barnacles on their backs. The kids had fun learning their names…yes, they name them!)

After a time, we left our friendly gray whale to explore more of the outer islands, where we could float right up near the rocky shore to spot jellies, sea stars, and an whole colony of seals. We watched their heads pop out of the water mere feet from us, and observed a dispute between two males on the rocks. Farther on, we sat still to photograph a set of four puffins floating on the sea, and caught a rare glimpse of a sea otter.

We headed out to open ocean in search of humpback whales, and were rewarded with four, two of which were a mother and calf. Tyson explained that ‘humpies’ were more likely to ‘fluke’ (show their tales as they dive deep), which we saw several times. We hung out with them for a time before needing to head back to the dock.

We had fine weather, but should you not, the small size of the Zodiac still allows for good viewing, though the water may be choppier. The suits keep you very warm, even in the wind while the boat is moving fast (though you’ll definitely want the gloves in cold weather). Once you return to the dock, hot peppermint tea awaits you.

Tips: You’ll want everyone in your party to be wearing sunscreen on their faces, and sunglasses are helpful. No matter the weather, the glare from the water is significant. Hats may fly off; I suggest using their knit caps that stay on better. The water was smooth they day of our visit, but if it’s choppy, captains carry seasickness remedies. We told ours that Calvin was prone, and he checked on him several times to make sure he wasn’t uncomfortable. (He was fine.)

Distance from the interstate:

Remote Passages is right off Highway 4 in Tofino.

Date last visited:

July 2012

Rates and reservations:

A whale watch is not cheap, so may need to be budgeted for. If you can only experience one Tofino-area excursion, my kids were split between a kayak tour of the intertidal zone or a whale watch. Both are offered by Remote Passages. For the most wildlife viewed, however, a whale watch can’t be beat. Rates are $69 for kids, and $89 for adults at the time of our visit.

Other excursions offered:

If a whale watch is not in your budget, or if you have very young kids who may not be up for 2 1/2 hours on the water, a great option is Remote Passages Meares Island drop-off. Only $20 per person, families enjoy at short (5 minute) Zodiac ride to take the self-guided Meares Island boardwalk rain forest trail. Alternatively, Remote Passages’ Coastal Bear Watch (also 2 1/2 hours) hugs the coastline of nearby islands to spot bears, and also other intertidal zone wildlife and eagles, seals, and shore birds. Their Hot Springs Explorer takes visitors all the way to to a natural hot springs in the ancient rain forest, but as this tour is 7 hours long, it’s best saved for older children and adults.

Directions:

Remote Passages is located at the bottom of Wharf Street, off Main. It’s easy to find!

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Kayaking the Vancouver Island west coast with Majestic Ocean Kayaking

August 17, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

Families don’t have to venture far into the Pacific or spend a whole day (and a whole lotta cash) seeing nature up close on a Vancouver Island west coast kayaking tour. When we joined Majestic Ocean Kayaking on their half-day harbor tour, we hadn’t even pushed off from the boat dock before Calvin spotted a massive sea star glowing purple and pink under the shallow water. “What, that little thing?” our guide, Jeremy, joked, and soon we saw why: intertidal nature was all around us, including dozens more sea stars of even more impressive size.

Once we’d set forth into Ucluelet B.C.‘s scenic harbor, Jeremy pointed out a harbor seal and a bald eagle within minutes (it may have been within seconds…my mind was too busy spinning to be sure). Throughout our next 2 1/2 hours on the water, we saw numerous other marine animals and birds, and learned much about the intertidal zone area. We paddled up close to the shore of several tiny islands, explored the muscles and clams clinging to the surface of pier pilings, and gaped at more than one shipwrecked vessel (lying abandoned in the low tide).

The half-day harbor tour was the perfect length for our kids, and even though the day was chilly, we stayed dry and warm in our neoprene kayaking skirts, booties, and shirts (all supplied by Majestic along with PFDs). We stopped once for a snack and water break, and Jeremy kept the kids interested throughout with conversational tidbits. We paused to check out a huge eagle’s nest, play with another harbor seal, and learn about local points of interest.

If your family is ready for something more daring, Majestic also offers full day tours of the Broken Group Islands, which is recommended for kids 12 and older (but which Jeremy assured me even Toby, age 7, could do if we so desired). I’m tempted to agree (it’s definitely on our list for next visit) but without having experienced the full-day option, I’m not sure my school-aged kids were quite ready for a full day on the open ocean. The benefit of the harbor tour is that the water is protected (no waves!) and you’re always close to shore.

Date last visited:

July 2012

Distance from the interstate:

About 10 minutes from BC 4 (the premiere east-west highway on Vancouver Island.

Rates:

At the time of our visit, Majestic’s harbor tour was $67 Canadian per person, which I’ve found to be right on par with similar rafting and kayaking experiences of the same length and difficulty. Their full-day options start at $145 per person, and they do offer multi-day expeditions as well.

Directions:

Majestic is located at 1167 Helen St., which is at the end of Marine Road (and at the end of the peninsula) in Ucluelet. If you’re in the ocean, you’ve gone too far. If you’re staying in Ucluelet, you’re only minutes away, no matter where you are. If you’re staying in Tofino, plan on a 30 minute drive.

As I disclose whenever applicable, my family and I experienced Majestic’s harbor tour at no expense. This compensation came with no expectation of a positive review (but does enable me to keep my readers informed of great outdoor travel opportunities such as this one).

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