Aboard a small ship cruise: Day by day with Alaskan Dream Cruises

When I told friends and family we’d be experiencing SE Alaska on a cruise ship, the image that came to everyone’s mind included a huge ocean liner, busy ports of call, fancy restaurants, kids clubs, and maybe a climbing wall. After all, kids don’t go on those intimate small ship cruises you read about, right? Wrong! (You knew that was coming, didn’t you?) Small ship cruise options are more accessible to families with Alaskan Dream Cruises family cruise itineraries.

small-ship-cruise

Why book a small ship?

Small cruise ships can go where the mega ships cannot, offer a more personal travel experience, afford families with hands-on learning and intimate ports-of-call, and include educational and cultural experts to enrich the travel experience. The cruise industry defines small ship cruising as 150 passengers or less; our Alaskan Dream cruise carried a whopping 28. Itineraries are more flexible, excursions are more in-depth, and service is more personal. A small ship cruise is also more expensive, and we know families need all the information they can gather before making such an investment. In this first of a three-part series, we offer our day-by-day Alaskan Dream Cruise experience, to help you decide if small ship cruising is for you.

An overview: nine days on the Baranof Dream in three minutes:

Day 1: Sitka to embarkation

An Alaskan Dream Cruise starts before your family boards one of their three cruise vessels. We arrived in Sitka, Alaska the day prior to our sailing, and were met at the airport by an Alaskan Dream representative. She quickly tagged all our luggage, loaded us into a van, and drove us to our hotel for the night, the Totem Square Inn. We explored the town during the evening on our own before bedtime.

Sitka alaska

The first morning of our cruise, we met our Expedition Leader Emily and our fellow passengers for a morning of Sitka sightseeing. (Our tagged luggage went directly to the ship, and we held onto only our day luggage.) Together, we toured Sitka, seeing the Alaska Raptor Center, Sitka Sound Science Center, and Sitka National Historic Park. This was a good way to get to know the other families (six families in total, with members ranging from grandparents to children; the young people ranged in age between 6-19).

Sitka Alaska

At lunchtime, we boarded an Allen Marine Sea Otter and Wildlife Quest vessel (Alaska native-owned Allen Marine is a sister company of Alaskan Dream Cruises) for a tour of Sitka Sound and a rendezvous with our home for the next nine days, the Baranof Dream.

One of the most exciting moments of our cruise arrived when our Allen Marine vessel turned a corner around a small island in beautiful Sitka Sound to the sight of the Baranof Dream waiting for us. We boarded at sea, and explored our 144-foot ship. The Baranof Dream has 25 cabins, but only a handful were in use for our family cruise itinerary (passengers are generally capped at 30 during family cruises). With 28 guests onboard, we found the common spaces (such as the dining room, lounge, and sun deck) to be comfortable and never crowded.

Baranof Dream

Cabins sleep 2-3 people, depending on the type, so our family of five had two. Kids cannot occupy a cabin alone (none are connecting) so we slept three of us in the more spacious Lydonia cabin and two in a standard cabin. While cozy, Baranof Dream cabins have adequate storage space as long as you put things away after using them and assign everything a space. We met our crew and experienced our orientation to the Baranof after embarking, and learned more about our course through SE Alaska thanks to a GPS-enabled interactive map always on screen in the lounge.

Baranof Dream

Our first meal set our expectations high (they were never disappointed). All meals (and wine or beer with dinner) are included in your cost, and the dining room is casual and friendly. Kids can order off the adult menu, which always offers three choices for a main course, or the kids’ menu (with both the adult offerings and staples such as burgers, hot dogs, and excellent mac and cheese). In addition to three meals per day, ample snacks, appetizers, and drinks are offered in the lounge.

We learned to go to bed our first night with the sun still trying to set (sunset is after 11 pm) but it wasn’t hard; we were all exhausted after our first day!

Day 2: Juneau

We awoke to the Baranof Dream cruising into Juneau, Alaska, where the mega cruise ships dwarfed our small vessel. Our itinerary of a Mendenhall Glacier tour followed by time exploring the city included a last-minute surprise (not unusual on small ship cruises): we’d also be visiting a sled dog and mushers’ camp. All transportation was provided to us: we took a guided bus ride to Mendenhall Glacier, where we hiked to Nugget Falls, then were issued tickets to the Mt. Roberts Tramway in Juneau. We found the tram to be overrated, but enjoyed the excellent views and ample hiking at the top of Mt. Roberts. We enjoyed vouchers for lunch at a restaurant of our choice (we opted to watch the float planes land from The Hanger), then made our way through touristy downtown Juneau to meet our bus to Sled Dog Discovery and Mushers Camp.

Mendenhall Glacier

We spent the better part of two hours in this beautiful camp in the Tongass National Forest, where we met sled dogs, learned about their training, and held Alaskan sled dog puppies. On every Alaskan Dream cruise are both scientific and cultural expedition leaders who spend every day with you; ours, naturalist Emily and Tlingit Alaskan Native Howard (Koo Hook) were accompanied by two youth expedition leaders, Jess and Sophia, as well. Throughout the day, they offered guidance, friendship, and knowledge.

Juneau Alaska

Days on the Baranof Dream usually end with a post-dinner presentation by the expedition leaders to help us prepare for the day ahead; in this case, it ended with a special treat. Forty-five minutes after departing Juneau, we docked at a private day lodge, Orca Point Lodge, for a king crab dinner. The kids explored the rocky beach with their youth expedition leaders and learned about the intertidal zone at a touch tank, and the adults enjoyed getting to know each other better over wine and beer and gorgeous views. We loved seeing the kids try new foods at dinner, and afterward, everyone enjoyed a beach bonfire.

Day 3: Hobart Bay

hobart bay

Hobart Bay is a private section of Alaskan Native-owned shoreline only native-owned Alaskan Dream Cruises can access. On the itinerary: playtime! Following breakfast, each family was issued a schedule, rotating through kayaking, Zego-riding (a Zego is a personal motorized watercraft), and RTV-riding. Kayaking offered a peaceful escape onto the water, where we shared the space with a Stellar sea lion, salmon, and sea birds, and the RTVs (though too noisy for my taste) took us on a fun adventure along logging roads to view black bears and pick berries. The kids loved the Zegos best, which they could drive as we zipped around the many narrow passage-ways surrounding Hobart Bay.

Hobart Bay

In the late afternoon, crew and passengers alike gathered to participate in (or watch) the ‘Killer Whale Club’ initiation, which involved a leap into the 38 degree water of the bay. Between events, we enjoyed a BBQ lunch, and after dinner, we sat around a second bonfire with s’mores. The bartender, John, made friends with the kids onboard by making smoothies with the berries they picked, and the pastry chef, Lemmick, followed suit with a muffin-making class. During free time on the Baranof Dream, anyone can access the bridge to talk with the captain, Stu, and his crew; our boys especially loved learning to tie knots from crew member Hank.

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Five reasons to book Alaska small ship cruises

A year ago, we wrote extensively about our small ship cruise experience with Alaskan Dream Cruises. If you liked what you read (and saw in our small ship cruise review video), now is the perfect time of year to book your summer cruise. However, I realize Alaska small ship cruises are a serious vacation investment. If hikes, kayaking, wildlife viewing and shore excurions are on your list, you’ll get the biggest bang for your buck by booking one of several Alaska small ship cruises.

5 reasons for families to book Alaska small ship cruises:

Sawyer Glacier

1. Eco-conservation begins with education.

As outdoor enthusiasts who have done all we can to pass on our love of the wilderness to our kids, we know that nothing makes children respect and value the planet more than a personal relationship with the natural world. On small ship cruises, the emphasis is outward (on the world outside the ship), instead of inward (deck parties and swimming pools). When kids see, hear, and touch the wildlife around them (whether that be while kids are exploring Alaska or the Galapagos), they are changed.

Case in point: the day we disembarked from our Alaskan Dream Cruises small ship cruise, we toured a museum of SE Alaska in Ketchikan. It took my kids about 15 minutes to view the entire facility, so I stopped them at the exit to ask why they’d spent so little time inside.

My oldest replied, “We already saw everything in this museum in ‘real life’ during the cruise, Mom.”

He didn’t realize it, but he’d summed up the reason for booking a small ship cruise. During our nine days on Alaskan Dream Cruises’ Baranof Dream family cruise, we visited Tlingit villages, kayaked amid sea lions, jumped into the frigid water of the Inside Passage, watched glaciers calve, stomped our feet to Norwegian folk dancing, eaten king salmon and crab, seen humpback whales breaching, made native crafts, and the list goes on. The entire time, we were surrounded by multiple expedition leaders (for both adults and youth) who pointed out sights, taught us scientific and cultural facts, showed us which berries to sample off the bushes, found eagles nests and bears fishing for salmon, and helped our kids paint, sew, and carve.

2. The kids will sleep well every night.

A common concern of parents considering a small ship cruise is that there won’t be ‘enough to do’ onboard. According to Wien, Alaskan Dream daily itineraries start at 7 am with breakfast and go strong until bedtime, with the goal of making each vessel ‘a moving summer camp’. The small ship may lack a game room and a climbing wall, but kids are always active, both on and off the ship. Because small ship cruise pricing is inclusive, parents can say ‘yes’ to kids all day long: yes, you can join that kayak tour, yes, explore the marine conservation center, and yes, have another cookie.

Hobart bay

3. Small ship cruises have a smaller environmental impact.

Due to their significantly smaller size, impacts of on-board consumption and off-vessel discharge for small ships can be limited to population areas which can handle this additional infrastructure (think 30 passengers instead of 3000). Limited on-board space forces small ship crews to reduce, reuse, and recycle as much as possible, a practice Alaskan Dream and other small ship companies have mastered by necessity.

4. Small ship cruising allows for a local experience aiding a local economy.

In addition to gaining access to smaller, less populated ports of call, small cruise ships such as Alaskan Dream nurture positive working relationships with local tourism departments, attractions, and groups. In the case of Alaskan Dream, owners Bob and Betty Allen are members of the Tlingit Alaska tribe, a relationship that is fostered in their hiring practices, their cultural presentations, and their ports of call. “Native culture is strong in Alaska,” explains Wien. The Allens are highly involved in local communities, helping local causes and assisting to provide tourism dollars.

Kasaan alaska

5. Small ship foster multigenerational bonding.

While many cruise experiences will prompt families to leave their cell phones and electronic devices at home (or at least stowed in their bags), small ships take inclusiveness a step further. General gathering areas for all passengers encourage multigenerational mingling, and activities that may be out of the comfort zone of both father and son, mother and grandmother encourage familial bonding. Kids and parents absorb new information together, and then experience nature together in an unforgettable way.

Alaskan Dream did not sponsor this post.

Other great eco-cruise providers around the world:

AdventureSmith
Ecoventura
Discovery Voyages

Have you taken a small ship cruise? What eco and vacation benefits did you experience?

What to do in Ketchikan Alaska with kids

There’s plenty to do in Ketchikan Alaska with kids! Whether in Ketchikan a day or two before or after a cruise or in the city for an extended time, there are a few must-sees.

Creek street ketchikan

SE Alaska Discovery Center

One of the best museums we viewed in Alaska, the SE Alaska Discovery Center is located in the heart of downtown Ketchikan, in easy walking distance of the cruise ship terminals. Start by viewing the 28 minute film, then tour through various ecosystems of Alaska, including rain forest, intertidal, and more. There are also exhibits on the fishing and crabbing industry, Alaskan Native populations and customs, and Alaskan wildlife. The museum exhibits don’t replace going out to see the ‘real thing’, but does give a great overview of the area. This stop would be best at the start of an Alaska vacation.

The museum is located at 50 Main Street. Admission is $5 per person.

SE Alaska Discovery Center

Historic Creek Street

Ketchikan is known for its role as a gateway to the Klondike gold fields, and has a somewhat sordid past to reflect this pioneering history. Creek Street houses rows of historic buildings built along the pier over a large creek, most of which are now tourist shops. It’s worth a stroll along the boardwalk to catch glimpses of spawning salmon in the creek in summer and imagine what the town used to look like. A word of caution: Dolly’s, a one-time brothel, has been restored to its former glory for tours. Contrary to what the tour guides will tell you, the vast majority of parents would not consider the tour appropriate for children. The content discussed and some of the artifacts within the house are graphic. Learn from our mistake!

Misty Fjords national monument

Misty Fjords National Monument

The best way to experience Misty Fjords National Monument is by boat. If you’re lucky enough to be cruising via small ship, you will have likely cruised through Misty Fjords, but if not, definitely include it in your day excursions. The best tour of the region: Misty Fjords and Wilderness Explorer, a 4.5 hour boat tour of the national monument run by longtime Alaskan-owned company Allen Marine. It’s easy to see wildlife aboard this two-story vessel, such as bald eagles and seals. There’s a natural onboard to point things out and answer questions, and snacks and tea and coffee are provided. We were most impressed by the 3,000 foot granite cliffs on either side of the boat, the numerous waterfalls, and New Eddystone Rock sticking out of the green-blue water.

Tip: If souvenir shopping, Ketchikan has ample opportunity to buy made-in-Alaska wares, such as Alaskan Native art or beadwork made locally. Ask shop owners whether their products are made in the state; you’d be surprised how much comes from oversees.

Juneau Alaska with kids: lesser known Mt. Roberts Tramway hiking

If you’re experiencing Juneau Alaska with kids, you’re most likely arriving by cruise ship. If you’re very lucky, you’re cruising via a small-ship cruise, disembarking ahead of the masses, but even if you’re onboard a large cruise ship, families can escape the crowds of downtown Juneau. The trick is getting kids to pass up the Juneau souvenir shops lining the dock in favor of harder-to-reach but rewarding hiking spots.

mt roberts tramway

The Mt. Roberts Tramway is located in the heart of touristy downtown, and costs a whopping $31 per adult, $15 per child to ride (we recommend you do so via a cruise excursion instead, or buy a combination pass), but once you’re on the tram, you leave downtown behind. The views on the ride up are amazing (even during partly foggy or rainy weather), and once at the top, it’s fairly easy to ditch the crowds by skipping (yet more) souvenir shops and the top-of-mountain restaurant. Head to the nature center, where (amid even more souvenirs!) kids can find information about the mountains here, including what wildlife to be looking for. Hint: there are mountain goats up here!

Hiking Mt. Roberts

From the nature center, the Alpine Loop Trail is only .5 mile, but fairly steep with commanding views. (Bring binoculars.) From this loop, it’s easy to add more length by taking one of the many side trails (they all end up eventually back on the Alpine Loop and then back at the nature center.

If you want to escape humanity entirely, opt to hike the trail back down to Juneau (instead of taking the tram back down). The trail is clearly marked on Mt. Roberts’ trail maps (pick one up when you arrive), and doesn’t take as long as you’d think…probably because it’s all downhill. This said, the way is steep and often slippery. We recommend kids be at least eight years old (you are your child’s best judge) and that everyone has good footwear. Do not attempt in rain. The trail will deposit you on the opposite end of downtown Juneau from the tram (approximately a 10 minute walk back). The plus side of ending away from the tourist zone: you will pass several historic houses (including one resided in by Sarah Palin) en route back to the main drag.

Mt. Roberts nature center

Hiking in Juneau is a great way to experience the beautiful scenery here (and I bet you’ll still have time to buy a t-shirt or two). Stop for lunch after hiking at The Hanger, located right on the bay. The kids will enjoy watching the float planes take off and land, and the food is fast and delicious.

Sitka day trips: Allen Marine Sea Otter and Wildlife Quest

Sitka Alaska has many attractions for families, but if time is tight and you only have one day to experience one of many Sitka day trips, spend it on the water of Sitka Sound with Allen Marine. Allen Marine has been running their wildlife tours  for over 40 years, making them an authority on Sitka and wildlife and marine life viewing. Alaskan Native owned and operated, the company guarantees wildlife sightings while on board their vessels.

sea otter and wildlife quest

We took their Sea Otter and Wildlife Quest tour of the Sitka Sound as part of our Alaskan Dream Cruises itinerary (also run by Allen Marine), which took us amid the many small islands off the sound for a three hour tour.

What sets Allen Marine apart:

We were happily surprised to see that Allen Marine provides a naturalist onboard all their day excursion vessels. Our naturalist, in partnership with our boat’s experienced captain, was able to point out details our untrained eye would have missed, such as an eaglet in a known-to-locals bald eagle’s nest and a bird sanctuary not usually part of a standard Sitka itinerary. The waterjet tour boat is two-stories, with wall-to-wall windows for viewing and a covered sun deck for some air. Snacks, coffee, hot chocolate, and tea are complementary, as are the use of high quality binoculars (enough for everyone).

Sitka Sound

In addition to showing us sea otters, Stellar sea lions, eagles, bears, and sea birds, our naturalist had many tactile lessons on-hand for the kids (and adults), such as feathers, leaves, skins, and furs to use as educational tools. We didn’t expect such a knowledgable crew! Tip: dress in layers and have a rain jacket and gloves on-hand to really enjoy the observation deck.

sea otter and wildlife quest

Date last visited: July 2013

Reservation information: Book directly with Allen Marine, or check your cruise ship’s excursion listings…they’re likely on there! Cost information is available by calling Allen Marine or through your cruise line.

Directions: Boats pick guests up directly from cruise ships, or from select docks in Sitka.

 

Not visiting Sitka? Allen Marine offers similar tours in both Juneau and Ketchikan.

Sitka Alaska hotel review: Totem Square Hotel and Marina

Wondering where to stay in Sitka Alaska?  Read on for our Sitka Alaska hotel review.

The Totem Square Hotel and Marina is ideally located right on the harbor, with beautiful views of Sitka Sound and within walking distance of everything in town. The amenities at the Totem Square are average at best–expect the most standard of motel rooms, but the location and the on-site restaurant more than make up for this. After all, in lovely Sitka, you’re probably not spending much time in your room.

Sitka harbor

The motel has an airport shuttle, eliminating any need for a car if you’re touring Sitka only, or boarding a cruise ship. We found the desk staff to be friendly and efficient, and while the rooms are basic, the beds are exceptionally comfortable. There is an on-site laundry room (useful if you’re disembarking from a cruise) and a small convenience store area selling basics you may have forgotten (there’s also a pharmacy across the street). From the motel, you can view fishing boats coming and going, and catching your day excursion boat is easy as well. Located in Totem Square, you’re across the street from historic Castle Hill and within walking distance of other Sitka attractions, stores, and restaurants.

Totem Square Inn Sitka

The on-site restaurant was perfect on a nice summer day (sit out on the patio overlooking the harbor!) and the food was excellent, ranging from fish tacos to fish and chips and burgers or quesadillas. At the time of our visit (and apparently for some time before) this restaurant was closed for breakfast, limiting options. Guests can either pay for a limited continental breakfast in the lobby (does not come included with the room) or go across the street to the Sitka Hotel. We recommend the latter; the breakfast was quick and hearty, and the ambiance in this historic hotel was lovely.

dining at totem square inn sitka

Date last visited:

July 2013

Room rates:

At the time of our visit, rates for a standard room started at $184. Room rate included wifi access (down at the time of our visit) and an exercise room is on-site.

Directions:

The motel is located at 201 Katlion Street in Totem Square. It’s a five minute drive from the airport, and even closer to the docks.

Our stay at Totem Square Inn was complimentary, included in our Alaskan Dream Cruise.

Things to do in Sitka Alaska with kids: three not-to-miss attractions

Whether you’re embarking upon an Alaska cruise from Sitka or charting a fishing excursion, there are multiple things to do in Sitka Alaska with kids. The town is rich in Russian and Tlingit (Alaska Native) history, and is a bustling fishing port to this day. Be sure to schedule at least one extra day in town to explore the natural, historical, and cultural sights. Sitka boasts 8,500 residents, but the central downtown area is entirely walkable; no need for a car. The three attractions for kids in Sitka below are all within a few blocks of one another, and all walkable from Sitka hotels.

Sitka Alaska

Alaska Raptor Center:

Spend a few hours at the Alaska Raptor Center, located just outside of town just past Sitka National Historic Park (walk through the trails to get there!). This rehabilitation center for as many as 30 Alaskan birds of prey includes permanent housing for raptors who cannot be reintroduced back into the wild, as well as ‘rehab’ exercise and observation rooms for those who are recovering from injuries. The staff is well-educated on the goings on at the center, and can answer any questions about the rescue process.

Alaska Raptor center

Start at the birds of prey presentation to ‘meet’ some bald eagle friends and get an overview of the center, then tour the rehab area and the outside viewing areas. The kids loved the owls best–especially the very animated snowy owl–and the ravens. There’s a nice walking path where wild bald eagles can be spotted (and perhaps a bear or two) and a gift shop, of course. The good news: proceeds help the raptors.

Located at 1000 Raptor Way, off Lincoln Street. Admission is $12 for adults and $6 for kids, and the center is open May through September 8 am to 4 pm.

Sitka National Historic Park:

En route to the Raptor Center is Sitka National Historic Park, which we were told is the smallest national park in the nation. Don’t judge it by its size, however: Sitka’s historic park has enough to do to keep a family busy for several hours. Start at the small but well-designed visitor’s center: view the short film which gives a good overview of the history of the area, then take a walk through the coastal rain forested trails to see the site of the Russian-Tlingit battle of the late 17th century and many authentic totem poles. Better yet: take one of the park’s guided walks to learn the most about the significance of each totem.

Sitka National Historic Park

The walk deposits visitors near the beach, where great tide pool and intertidal viewing is possible at low tide. Either way, stop to take a photo of beautiful Sitka Sound and see if you can spot any large cruise ships anchored off-shore (the harbor cannot accommodate them). Back in the visitor’s center, check out the indoor totem poles and pick up a Junior Ranger booklet to complete in Sitka.

The park is free to visit and open 8 am to 5 pm. Located on Lincoln Street (a main thoroughfare), the park is a 10 minute walk from another historical site, the Russian Bishop’s House (also on Lincoln, toward town). Download a walking map.

Sitka Sound Science Center:

Sitka Sound Science Center

The Sitka Sound Science Center is easy to overlook, located in a set of warehouses by the bay, but we found it to be a hidden gem of Sitka. Locals enjoy the center’s educational day programs and camps, and there’s plenty to see as a visitor as well. Plan to spend at least one hour to tour the outside salmon hatchery (where you can learn about the process of tagging and tracking Alaskan Wild Salmon) and explore the indoor touch tanks. These tanks are extensive, showcasing the abundance of wildlife in the intertidal zone. Kids and adults can touch everything in the tanks (with one finger to ensure nothing gets accidentally pinched or squished), and we had a great time learning what all these critters felt like! The water in the touch tanks is very cold, so be prepared for a numb hand after a while!

In the touch tank room are also several exhibits about the intertidal zone, marine wildlife, and eco-conservationism. An orca whale skeleton draws the eye, too. The guides here comprise mostly of scientists and students, and are very knowledgeable about the animals and SE Alaska.

Admission is $5 per person (over age two), which includes the hatchery. The center is located at 834 Lincoln.

While walking Sitka, Castle Hill, the site of the signing of Alaska over to the U.S. from Russia, is also worth a stop. A series of stairs takes visitors to the best views around, with cannons kids enjoy seeing and vistas of both the town and the sound. Find Castle Hill at the end of Lincoln Street, by the Sitka Hotel and Totem Square.

Looking for a place to stay in Sitka? Read our review of Totem Square Inn.

Logan International Airport

If you find yourself weather delayed or otherwise engaged in the waiting game with your kids this winter at Logan International Airport in Boston, MA, a respite by the name of KidPort can be found in Terminal A. This large play area is located next to Alaska and Delta airlines, it spans between gates 13-22. There’s also a food court, shops and restrooms nearby. The floor is that soft spongy stuff parents love, and there are lots of big, foam climbing structures. In fact, it’s probably the best play area I’ve seen!

Date last visited: January 2011

Hours and admission: Open ’round the clock!

Directions: View a map of the airport here.

Find an airport play space where you’ll be traveling!