Grown Up Getaway: Miami beyond the beaches

Maybe you’ve ‘done’ South Beach. Or maybe, you remember the Miami of the ‘80s and ‘90s, when South Beach defined the city. Whether beachside clubbing and hot days on the sand are not for you, or whether you’re ready for something different, check out Miami beyond the beaches for your next Grown-Up Getaway. Here’s your ready-made itinerary for your Grown Up Getaway Miami:

miami

Start in the artsy Wynwood neighborhood:

Wynwood perhaps defines the ‘new’ Miami better than any other single neighborhood. An eclectic mix of art galleries, trendy bars and restaurants, and boutiques, Wynwood may have become gentrified from the time of its artistic roots, but it’s still a great representation of the mixing pot that is Miami.

rust wynwood

Start with a stroll through the neighborhood to appreciate the street art…don’t worry, you can’t miss it. Wynwood Walls sits at the epicenter of the street art movement, with commissioned murals across several blocks. Enter at 2520 NW 2nd Avenue, where you’ll see arched gates into the artwork. (It’s free to enter.) Between murals, a few galleries are open within Wynwood Walls, as well as a juice bar and a few other small cafes.

wynwood-walls

After seeing the ‘official’ art of Wynwood, walk through the next few blocks, wandering at will and popping into additional galleries and boutiques and checking out more unofficial murals, some as impressive as the commissioned work.

Grab a pre-dinner drink at Alter, which has an inviting outdoor bar just adjacent to the small dining room. Make a reservation to eat here to taste celebrated chef Brad Kilgore’s inventive pre-fixed menu (he also creates his magic at Brava, home of one of Miami’s hardest-to-get reservations).

wynwood

If you’re looking for a more casual meal, head instead to Rust, a hole-in-the-wall on 2nd Ave in the most gentrified of ways. Located down an open-air marketplace hallway in the heart of Wynwood, Rust is owned by a Uruguayan transplant who has made Miami his home. Featuring a globally inspired menu that includes everything from chivitos (Uruguayan sandwiches) and Spanish tortillas to ceviche, Rust is a place to linger on the patio with a sangria and tapas to share.

Spend your next day in Museum Park:

Ten years ago, Miami’s downtown became a ghost town after work hours. With the addition of the Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts of Miami-Dade County located within easy walking distance to Museum Park (featuring the stellar Perez Art Museum Miami and brand new Frost Museum of Science), that all changed. Now a hub for performing and visual arts lovers, this region of Miami is vibrant day and night.

arsht center

During the day, linger during the morning at the Perez (PAMM), where two floors of permanent and featured art exhibits are on display. Make sure to leave time to stroll outside, where Adirondack chairs and hanging hammock chairs invite you to sit a while to enjoy the ocean breezes and views of the bay. Grab a coffee at the museum cafe, or better yet, head over the the Arsht Center to enjoy lunch at the cafe at Books and Books. A Miami institution, Books and Books is located in their original Sears storefront, and features a farm-to-table style menu upstairs from the bookseller.

perez art

Check out the Frost Museum of Science (yes, even if you’ve left the kids at home). This brand new museum  is actually divided into four buildings: the Frost Planetarium, Aquarium, and North and West Wings, where you can learn about the core science behind living systems, the solar system and known universe, the physics of flight, light and lasers, the biology of the human body and mind, and much more. If nothing else, see a show at the planetarium (or come back at night to see it set to contemporary music such as Pink Floyd or U2.

frost science center

In the evening, see a performance at the Arsht Center. This massive and beautiful center features visual art embedded in the design and architecture, and offers space for both large-scale musical theater performances, ballet and symphony, and intimate plays and dance performances. I was lucky enough to see The Death of Harry Houdini in the small black box theater, and was blown away.

museum park

Note: if you take Uber to the theater, they’ve made it easier for you to identify where you’ll meet your driver with pre-set stations…otherwise, the sprawling center spread over several city blocks proves problematic.

Do some shopping:

For the most impressive shopping malls, you’ll want to go to Brickell City Center (or farther out, Coconut Grove). The City Center is a LEAD certified building with an amazing (and beautiful) eco-design feature: the climate ribbon spans over the top of the open air mall, collecting rain water for reuse and simultaneously managing climate control. (It truly feels cooler in the mall than just outside.)

brickell city center

You’ll find no shortage of shopping opportunities in City Center (Saks is the flagship), but perhaps the bigger attraction are the bars and restaurants, as well as the luxury movie theater. We recommend a movie followed by drinks on the rooftop bar, Sugar.

Where to stay and how to get around:

Miami, unfortunately, isn’t a pedestrian friendly city, nor does it boast great public transportation, but it IS improving. If you stay in the Brickell area, you can easily transit between City Center and Museum Park by MetroMover, the free metro line that’s located downtown. Otherwise, you’ll need a car, which is why I recommend a Midtown hotel. You’ll be within about 10 minutes’ drive from Wynwood, Brickell, and Museum Park, all without getting on a freeway (and thus avoiding traffic).

grown up getaway miami

The Hampton Inn & Suites Miami Midtown is a brand new hotel located in Midtown that’s quite frankly the nicest Hampton I’ve ever stayed in. See our review here. Valet parking is reasonable (or better yet, use Uber in Miami) and the stay includes an upscale complimentary breakfast and nice outdoor pool with lounging areas. You get a lot for your money here, and you won’t be in your room much, anyway. There’s another location in Brickell, which would be a good choice if that’s the neighborhood you decide to focus on, but you’ll save money staying in Midtown. Finding travel deals is now simple and can be done in a jiffy especially when you want to cut down your budget.’

If you DO bring the kids:

Check the Arsht Center website for options of kid-friendly shows…there are many! The Frost Museum of Science is a home run, and the Perez Art Museum offers kid programming every first Thursday, as well as special programs for the family. All the dining options listed above, with perhaps the exception of Alter, are appropriate for kids of any age.

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Louvre vs d’Orsay museum: why you should visit both with kids

If you’re visiting Paris with kids ten and up, both the Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay are probably on your short list. When I created our Paris itinerary with kids, I initially left the d’Orsay off of it. This was a big mistake! On recommendation by our Fat Tire Tours guide, we ended up spending a morning at this museum and it was our most enjoyable museum visit in Paris. In the battle of the Louvre vs d’Orsay museum, here’s why you need to make time for both.

louvre-vs-d'orsay

What you’ll only find at the Louvre:

Most people are aware that the Louvre is home of Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Of course, this is a big draw, and like many, many other people, we really wanted to see this work of art while we were in Paris. Is it the only show in town? Of course not, but  I believe that when kids  (and adults) see a work of art they instantly recognize, it increases their enthusiasm for art museums as a whole. There’s a wow factor in seeing the Mona Lisa, and it shouldn’t be underestimated or ignored. In other words, don’t worry about being a cliche; go see it!

Also at the Louvre is the Venus de Milo, as well as a wonderful collection of medieval and Renaissance paintings that serve as a good crash course in the major players of the 14th-18th century. I am not an art historian, so I won’t pretend to know exactly what I’m talking about in regard to particular works, but it’s worth the €5 per person to grab an audio guide when you enter. You can pick and choose which works to learn more about.

Note: the audio guides do not offer commentary on every piece of art. Rather, there are selected works that have an audio symbol adjacent. We found that depending on the room, there might only be 2-3 audio commentary art pieces.

There are three main wings of the Louvre, divided into eight main categories of art. We grabbed a map and headed straight to the biggies we wanted to see, then toured through the Egyptian antiquities and sculptures. The collection of medieval armor and weaponry is of great appeal to kids as well.

louvre-with-kids

What you’ll only find at the d’Orsay:

Compared to the Louvre, the d’Orsay is downright small. It’s very nice to have a manageable space to navigate! This museum is housed in the beautiful train station made during the world fair days, and is light, airy and bright. It’s main focus is Impressionist paintings, and has works primarily from the 18th-20th centuries. You can find Rodin here, Van Gogh, Monet, and Renoir, among many others.

Personally, we prefer this style of art, from the Impressionist era, so we were much more excited for the d’Orsay. With the museum map, it’s easy to find everything, and we found that the kids discovered more pieces that they recognized from text books and popular culture here.

view-from-d'orsay

Note: from upstairs on the 5th floor of the d’Orsay, there are wonderful views of Sacre Coeur and a glimpse out the window of the famous train station clock face (on either end).

How to see them both (without burning out):

  • While the d’Orsay is more manageable than the Louvre, don’t even try to see everything in either one. We didn’t even make it to one entire wing of the Louvre. Instead, do some research ahead of time to know what are the must-sees for your group, and get those accomplished first. Then wander at will for a set amount of time, and that’s it. In each museum, we spent about three hours. We saw our highlights in the first hour, our secondary picks in the second, then wandered for the last part.
  • Get the Paris Museum Pass! This pass, which works similarly to CityPass in the US, grants you entry into dozens of attractions and museums in Paris. However, since kids 18 and under and free in most cases, the real value of this pass is in the line-skipping feature. We literally saved hours at each museum by going into the ‘Paris Pass and Reserved Tickets’ line. The museum pass also comes with multi-day metro tickets, which you absolutely need to purchase in Paris anyway.
  • Make time to eat. At the Louvre, the cafe on the second level is not bad at all. Better yet, in summer, go outside to the  Tuileries to eat at one of the little walk-up cafes there. This is even an option in winter, though some of the food stands close.
  • Use the visitor trails. We opted not to do this, but the Louvre has set itineraries you can follow. If you have a theme of interest, this is a great way to make sure not to miss anything. The trails are pre-loaded in the audio guide, or can be followed separately.
  • Be sure to grab a map. We found the maps at both museums to be essential.

Which museum do you prefer in Paris? Why?

Guide to surviving (I mean enjoying) the Vatican Museums with kids

You can’t go to Rome without seeing the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica, but make no mistake, the Vatican Museums are difficult to tackle, with or without kids. With over 2000 rooms and nine miles of art, these vast and imposing buildings within Vatican City are overwhelming on the best of days…on the worst, you’ll be wading through crowds that make Disney World on New Year’s Day look like a ghost town. During our most recent visit during the Christmas holidays, we often felt as though we were wading through a sea of humanity. Needless to say, this is not the best way to appreciate priceless art.

vatican-with-kids

Guide to surviving (I mean enjoying) the Vatican Museums with kids:

Families should be prepared to deal with significant crowds, lines, and tired feet when visiting the Vatican Museums, but there are steps you can take to minimize these discomforts and enjoy the experience. The following are our five best tips for a day in the Vatican.

Get a guide.

Don’t even think about trying to navigate the Vatican Museums without one. While you can save money with a large group tour, I recommend a small group tour of ten people or fewer. It’s easier to stick with your guide in a small group, you can enter some of the smaller passageways and rooms that big groups skip, and the tour can cover more ground. We took this tour with Viator. With it, we skipped the line to buy tickets, which is absolutely essential when touring the Vatican Museums. We went through a very short security line, got our headsets so we could hear our guide on the tour, and we were off.

Our guide showed us the essentials; on a three hour tour, there isn’t time for more. But since we’re not art historians and were there for the biggies, like the Raphael rooms and Sistine Chapel, we were very satisfied with all we saw.

viator-tour

Plan to spend 3/4 of a day for a 1/2 day tour.

Plan plenty of time to arrive at the Vatican…it’s a large complex. For our Viator tour, we met with our guide at their tour office instead of at the entrance to the museums, so check your reservation carefully to know where to go. You also need to build in time to eat lunch after a morning tour, plus budget time to look through St. Peter’s Basilica if it’s not included in your tour. If you want to climb the dome, there is a separate line. It may be worthwhile to your group to do this, but I’d take a break and eat something between visiting the Vatican Museums and the dome.

Skip the gardens.

Someone will probably tell me I’m wrong about this (and if so, please do comment), but our tour guide advised that we could see the gardens from the patio/terrace of the museum, and it wasn’t necessary to get a tour there as well. We’re glad we used our time in other ways.

Dress correctly for St. Peter’s.

Remember that to enter St. Peter’s Basilica, you’ll need legs and shoulders covered. This means no shorts in the hot summer months. In winter, it’s easier to be wearing the right clothes, but in warmer months, you may need to make a note to wear long pants and take a scarf or light shirt to put on when needed.

st-peters-baslica

Prepare kids ahead of time.

It really helps to prepare kids (and adults!) ahead of time with some information about the major works of art they’ll see. We looked at pictures of the Raphael rooms, some sculpture, and Michelangelo’s masterpiece before we left home, and learned a little bit about each piece. This way, when the kids actually saw these works of art, they meant something personal to them. Even with this preparation, there were moment of boredom as we went through room after room. I don’t blame the kids; after awhile the frescos start to look the same. Thanks to our guide, we were able to find differences between them and stories to go with them.

Lastly, don’t eat at the cafeteria directly down the street from St. Peter’s, below the square. We were very hungry after our tour and this place and a McDonalds were the first restaurants we saw. We decided the cafeteria must be better than McDonalds. We were wrong.

st-peters-with-kids

Yes, still smiling at the end of the tour. Mostly.

Pricing:

If you decide to tour the Vatican Museums on your own (don’t do this!), you’ll need to queue up early to get in. Tickets are €16 and €8 (adult and child). If you want to buy tickets online to avoid the queue, but not have a guide, it’s possible to buy tickets here.

What are your best Vatican tips?

Philly trip with kids: Philadelphia Museum of Art

Philadelphia surprised us with one of the best art museums in the country. The Philadelphia Museum of Art building itself is impressive: located in Fairmont Park (not downtown), the historic building towers over the adjacent Spring Garden neighborhood. While planning a Philly trip with kids, families will want to start out by running up the imposing museum steps a la Rocky (the movie was filmed here). I hear many visitors come only for this, which is ridiculous: the museum houses over 2,000 years of art ranging from sculpture and photography to painting and tapestry.

philly-with-kids

We started on the 1st floor to hit the biggies before the kids faded: here, you’ll find van Gogh’s Sunflowers and several works by Picasso in the European Art galleries. In the American Art gallery, Winslow Homer is the biggest draw (no pun intended!) but we ended up spending a great deal of time here looking at the various contemporary art pieces and 20th century art. We found this section of the museum to be particularly kid-friendly.

armor-room-philadelphia

Save the upstairs for after you’ve seen what you want to see as a parent, because once kids get into the Arms and Armor wing, you may never leave. Honestly, I was fascinated, too. This impressive gallery features full knight armor, knights on horseback, armor from just about every period, and weaponry of all kinds. Our kids played a game of picking out what they’d want for battle during various periods of European and Asian history (a made-up game of their own), which took the better part of an hour. When you finally pull the kids away, the Asian Art wing waits, and an impressive section of early European Art featuring full rooms from various periods (we liked the English drawing room).

philly-art-museum

Date last visited:

June 2014

Distance from the interstate:

A few seconds from I-95.

Admission:

Tickets are $20 for adults, $14 for youth (13-17) and free for kids 12 and under.

Dining:

There is a museum cafe, located at the bottom level, as well as Granite Hill, a critically-acclaimed restaurant. Outside the museum, Fairmont Park offers space for picnics, and food trucks are often in the vicinity (though at the time of our visit, we only saw ice cream trucks).

Hours of operation:

Open Tuesday through Sunday 10 am to 5 pm. Late hours Wednesday and Friday nights (until 8:45 pm, with ‘pay what you wish’ starting after 5 pm).

Directions:

The museum is located at 2600 Benjamin Franklin Parkway.

As I disclose whenever applicable, our visit to the museum was complimentary, for the purpose of review. Without complimentary entry, we wouldn’t be able to bring as many reviews to Pit Stops for Kids.

Visiting Santa Fe: Georgia O’Keeffe Museum with kids

No trip while visiting Santa Fe would be complete without a stop at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum with kids. Located downtown, this most-visited museum in New Mexico showcases the work of one of the most influential modernist artists of all time, Georgia O’Keeffe. In the museum, families will see her quintessential works–the minimalist bone and colorful flower paintings associated most with the artist–but also learn about her life, see her early work and sketches, and view temporary exhibits.

okeeffe-museum-santa-fe

During my visit, I was lucky enough to experience a docent-led tour. These tours are available twice daily (at 10:30 am and 2:00 pm during the time of my visit) and are free to visitors. During the tour, which took about 1.5 hours, I gained an overview of O’Keeffe’s career, including her education, early work, and professional life. Details in her paintings were pointed out that I otherwise would have missed. I highly recommend the tour to adults.

The O’Keeffe Museum for kids:

The O’Keeffe is not a stuffy museum only for adults! The team here has taken great measures to make the museum kid-friendly, including activities to help kids engage with the exhibits, opportunities for kids to create their own artwork, and special family hours.

kids-programming-at-okeeffe-museum

  • Discovery Guides for kids: these guides help kids interact with the exhibits (use a packet to find prompts, answer questions, offer opinions).
  • Sketchbooks and pencils for kids: upon entering the museum (by the way, kids are free), children are offered their own sketchbook so they can nurture their own creative juices while exploring the the nine galleries.
  •  Ok to Go: this program is an opportunity for parents to create art with kids on Fridays, Saturdays, and Mondays from 10:30-12:30.
  • Saturday morning Family Program: the gallery opens an hour early for families (9:30-11:30 June 28, July 19, and Aug 2). This allows for kids to enjoy the galleries without having to be too quiet.

When you enter the museum, be sure to stop and watch the short (just over 10 minutes) film on O’Keeffe’s life to give you a good overview and prepare you for the exhibits. Kids will especially be interested in the photographs of O’Keeffe’s New Mexico homes and home life, and an exhibit depicting her studio. Until fall, the current temporary exhibit features side-by-side works from O’Keeffe and Ansel Adams, from their commissioned work in the Hawaiian Islands. It’s fascinating to see their different takes on the same region, given their love of ‘place’ as inspiration. Plan to spend at least one hour in the museum, or more if you plan to catch a docent talk.

Date last visited:

April 2014

Distance from the interstate:

Several minutes from I-25 in Sante Fe.

Admission:

$12 for adults ($6 for New Mexican residents) and FREE for kids 18 and under.

Hours of operation:

Open 10 am to 5 pm daily (and until 7 pm on Fridays).

Directions:

Take exit 282, St. Francis Drive, heading north toward Santa Fe. Follow St. Francis Drive for approximately five miles. Turn right onto Paseo de Peralta, then left at the next light, onto Guadalupe Street. After a few blocks turn right onto Johnson Street. The Museum will be on your left, at 217 Johnson Street.