BC - Pitstops for Kids

Traveling the Canadian Rockies on VIA Rail

October 24, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

Overnight passenger train travel can be more expensive and slower than air travel today. So why should you go? And where?

Train across Canada: after spending two nights traveling the Canadian Rockies on VIA Rail‘s Canadian, the ‘why’ is easy to answer: in an age when traveling to a destination has become only about getting from Point A to Point B in a rushed, often stressful manner, a few days (or more) aboard a passenger train is a vacation in itself. The pace is relaxed, the scenery can be fantastic, and the service is friendly. After my experience aboard The Canadian, I would venture to say passenger train travel is in fact the sole remaining mode of idyllic transportation from the golden age, outlasting air and cruise travel.

Incorporating a VIA Rail journey into a Canadian vacation itinerary will greatly enrich your trip. There are many routes to choose between, the longest being the four day journey from Vancouver to Toronto on the Canadian. We opted for a fraction of this trip, embarking in Vancouver and departing in Jasper, Alberta (then returning on the same route after days of sightseeing in the Canadian Rockies). The 20-hour one-way trip was spent taking in the scenery from one of several observation cars with 360 degree views, dining in the relaxed yet elegant dining cars, getting to know fellow passengers, and sleeping, reading, working, or napping. We found that the ‘rail level’ views and relaxed pace afforded a more intimate experience with the British Columbia and Alberta wilderness.

Who to take with you:

If you’re bringing kids, I wouldn’t recommend this trip for kids under age six (though as always, parents know their own children best). During the rail trip, passengers are definitely confined to a series of train cars, and young kids would certainly get restless. Is there enough for older kids to do? Here’s what we found: a variety of board games in the ‘activity cars’, on-going snacks and juices in the lounges, and interesting sights out the window, whether it be scenery whizzing by or temporary stops at stations or through towns. In other words: not a lot of on-board entertainment.

If you travel with kids, we recommend downloading a few movies onto a computer, iPod, or iPad, and bringing plenty of reading material, activity books (such as coloring books) and card games. Plan on several hours between each meal that you’ll need to fill. Expect a primarily-adults-only passenger list: during our October trip, we saw only two children aboard the Canadian. This is not to discourage families from bringing kids: rather, know you’ll need to bring diversions and entertainment as needed. WiFi was not available aboard our train, though 3G and 4G service could be found via roaming off and on.

Which fare to book:

Determining which fare is right for you can be tricky. On the Canadian, there are two basic options: sleeper or economy. In economy, you’ll get a seat that reclines, access to an observation car with upper deck, access to a lounge with tables and chairs, and the option to buy food at the Starlight Cafe, serving meals and snacks to go. Passengers sleep in their seats, and share bathroom facilities. Economy is obviously the more affordable option, but quite frankly, didn’t look too appealing (despite the fact that VIA Rail seats are considerably more comfortable than airline seats).

Sleeper fare offers three bed configurations (each a different price) in the Sleeper Plus category. Passengers can opt between a one-passenger or two-passenger private cabin, or a semi-private upper or lower berth (closed with curtains). We experienced Sleeper Plus in a two-passenger cabin. We had a tiny-yet-functional cabin space with two chairs and a large window, a private bathroom with toilet, and a sink. Also included: a small amount of storage space and two outlets (yay!). In the evenings, a train steward comes by to lower your beds, which in the two-passenger cabin is bunk-bed style: upper and lower single beds. Beds are fully made-up each evening, and very comfortable (provided you’re not quite tall).

The one-passenger private cabin features one bench-like seat that flattens to accommodate a bed, plus a sink and toilet (the latter of which features a cushioned cover to become an ottoman during the day, but is covered up by the bed at night…a definite downside). Both the two-passenger and one-passenger cabins share one shower per car.

The last sleeper option is to book an upper or lower berth. These compartments feature bench seats (two facing each other) during the day, which fold out to become a lower berth bed at night. The upper berth bed folds out from the wall by the ceiling. These berths are made up at night and feature thick curtains for privacy. They share a public toilet and shower (one per car).

All Sleeper Plus fares include meals in the dining car (breakfast, lunch, and dinner, depending on when you’re onboard), snacks in the lounge, access to several observation cars and lounges, and complimentary champagne and appetizers upon embarkation.

Here’s a photo depicting 1. a two-passenger cabin made up for bed, 2. a lower berth made up for day, 3. coach seats:

Which to book will depend on your comfort level (how much privacy do you need?) and your meal needs. We absolutely recommend the all-inclusive dining: if you opt out of this, you can buy meals a la carte in the cafe, but this option would get old (and expensive) if traveling more than one night. We enjoyed the privacy of a cabin, but could have been comfortable in an upper and lower berth as well. Keep in mind that only up to two passengers fit in a cabin: families of four or more will need to book two (or more) cabins or opt for two or more upper/lower berths in a row. (The latter option will allow for more freedom of movement between beds as needed, but you’ll only have access to a shared bathroom.

View our VIA Rail experience video:

Tips:

1. Carry-on sized bags only are allowed onboard. Full-sized bags will need to be checked, so plan accordingly. Cabins have space for up to two carry-on bags, but if you opt for a berth, you’d be better off with only a large tote or backpack.

2. Bring a water bottle to refill. While coffee, tea, and juice is on offer at all times, I found the need to also keep a water bottle filled to prevent dehydration. If you like to sip coffee or tea all day, bring a small thermos or insulated mug.

3. Bring a hair dryer if you’ll need one: in cabins, towels, shampoo, and soap are provided, but not hair dryers.

4. Be prepared for plenty of motion and some train noise at night. We slept surprisingly well onboard, but you’ll definitely feel the movement.

Date last visited:

October 2013

Fare cost:

Calculate Via Rail fares here. Definitely plan early and check for fare discounts, offered several times per year. What we found: VIA Rail is not more economical than flying, so you need to consider the fare cost a part of your vacation experience, not part of your transportation costs.

Directions:

If embarking in Vancouver on the Canadian, you’ll depart from Pacific Station. Located next to Science World, it’s easy to get here from SkyRail from either the airport or the Waterfront station in downtown Vancouver.

As I disclose whenever applicable, we experienced The Canadian as guests of the VIA Rail, for the purpose of review. All opinions are our own, and we hope our experience inspires and equips other traveling families to make great decisions about rail travel.

A week stay at Three Bars Ranch, British Columbia

July 27, 2015 By Amy Hagstrom

There are beautiful resorts and vacation properties all over the world. The best start with a stunning destination, then add experiences, dining, and activities in a way that feeds both a sense of adventure and the need for relaxation. Then there are a few truly special, tucked-away places that manage to do all of the above, plus add a certain something that take them over-the-top for family travel. What is this secret sauce? It’s hard to say, but you know it when you experience it: it’s genuine, organic, and rooted in excellent guest service. These magical places make our top 1% of destination reviews.

The Three Bars Ranch in the Canadian Rockies of British Columbia is one of these places. One of the top 1% ones. One of the cream of the crop ones. They don’t get this rating from us by offering the most luxurious accommodations we’ve ever seen (we’ve seen nicer). They don’t get it from serving gourmet food. They don’t get it with a Michelin rating or a bunch of diamonds after their name in the guidebooks. They get it by being themselves, which is an authentic guest dude ranch with a long-standing family history, and by doing for guests: if it’s on your bucket list and can be done in the Rockies, they’ll make it happen.

We’ve now reviewed multiple dude ranches, and our standard advice continues to be: know what you want before you book, then book accordingly. Some dude ranches we’ve experienced focus almost exclusively on their riding program, and are best for experienced riders. Others are more like B&Bs or farm stays. Three Bars Ranch wins in the ‘all-round best for everyone’ category, but after staying for a week, I urge families not to think of it as a dude ranch.

Instead, think of Three Bars as an all-inclusive Canadian holiday, or as a family camp. With rafting, mountain biking, sport shooting, tennis, swimming, fly fishing, hiking, and golf in addition to its riding program, Three Bars truly does have something for everyone. But it’s more than that: remember the secret sauce? Three Bars manages to offer all of the above, and do so seamlessly, in a way that makes families feel relaxed, welcome, and comfortable both with the ranch staff and with each other. Trust us: not all dude ranches achieve this.

What to expect at Three Bars Ranch:

Like most dude ranches, families typically book at week at Three Bars. We arrived on a Sunday in late June, pulling up to the ranch house, barn, and other structures at about 4 pm. We were greeted by two of our wranglers at the main lodge, and shown to our cabin, one of about 20 circling the lodge on a grassy court. We settled in, and explored the grounds.

Three Bars is situated on over 1200 acres of pasture, forests, and mountainsides, plus uses an additional 60,000 acres of leased land in the heart of the Canadian Rockies along the St. Mary’s River. The ranch property includes the main lodge where we checked in, the cabins, tennis courts, an indoor swimming pool and hot tub, an activities barn with mountain bikes, and the horse padlocks and barns. Right away, it was clear that we were to consider this property ‘ours’ during our stay, and immediately, the kids felt comfortable wandering (as did we). They found the ping-pong and foosball tables, the pool table in the bar (open to youth players), the cozy gazebo, and the petting ‘zoo’, which is a true manaserie of animals all in need of lots of petting and holding (including a donkey, pigmy goat, pony, chickens, kittens, and goats).

After a Sunday evening meet-and-greet, welcome dinner, and orientation, daily life at the ranch settles into a routine. Every day, a bulletin board will list the day’s schedule, which will always include a morning and afternoon horse ride, breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and an evening activity. Alternative afternoon activities are always offered: whether it be a scheduled rafting trip or a specifically arranged fly fishing trip, ATV ride, or mountain bike trip. Every morning, head wrangler (and ranch owner) Tyler Beckley comes around to each breakfast table to arrange the day’s activities for each family. This is the time for families to choose which type of ride to go on, or what alternative activity to schedule. As the week wore on, we, like many families, met friends and arranged to ride and play together, asking for teen rides, group rides, and ladies only rides. All were easily arranged.

Our typical day (Mon-Fri at the ranch) started by barely waking up in time for 8 am breakfast (unheard of for us, early-risers!), taking a morning ride of our choice (usually a fast ride while the kids rode with friends, or a family ride), coming back for lunch and a little break, an afternoon activity, which alternated between another ride or a different activity (one afternoon we went target shooting, another we went rafting), then down time in the late afternoon.

We filled this time by swimming in the pool, playing ping-pong or tennis, riding a bike along the trails, or just sitting on the porch of our cabin with a glass of wine.

Our family especially love riding bikes along the single track horse trails and many dirt roads and ATV trails around the ranch; bikes are available in the activities barn (the smallest being 17″ during our visit…a good size for a 10-year-old or up). From the barn area, trails can be accessed easily, either from the pastures or the trails past the large reining barn. We also swam and played tennis, and other families went fly fishing (equipment is available to use) and ATV riding (extra fee).

The ranch bar opens each day at 5 pm, and families tend to gather there to compare notes on the day. Kids order smoothies and play pool, and adults relax over a beer or cocktail. Dinner is at 6:30, followed by an evening activity, always with the wranglers, who also eat meals with guests and socialize naturally with everyone.

Evening activities during our stay ranged from a reining horse demonstration by horse trainer Jessie Buckley to a volleyball match and a cowboy guitar entertainer. Because it doesn’t get dark in summer in this part of the world until almost 11 pm, the kids tended to play on the lawns or soak in the hot tub until well after 9 pm, with lights out for our crew of school-aged and teen kids well past bedtime.

The Three Bars riding program:

If I had to pick one part of the Three Bars Ranch that is at the heart of the stay, it would be the riding program, though I want to emphasize again that this ranch is about so much more than riding. That said, compared to riding programs at dude ranches we’ve visited that have more of a ‘riding is everything’ attitude, Three Bars is still very much on par.

The riding is incredible. The horses are very well trained and responsive, and to a person, the wranglers were friendly, competent, and helpful. During our visit, there was a very even mix of ability level on horseback, with about 1/3 of the riders considering themselves novices, 1/3 experienced riders who don’t ride often, and 1/3 frequent riders. On Day 1, everyone was introduced to their horse, pre-selected based on a questionnaire asking for experience level. Every one of the 30+ guests were happy with their horses during our stay.

The first day, everyone I spoke to began by walking only, with wranglers keeping a careful eye on ability level and horse/rider compatibility. We didn’t mind, even though we were eager to trot and lope our horses, because the first ride was a great opportunity to get to know the area and see some of the scenery away from the ranch proper. By our second ride (afternoon of Day 1), our family was trotting, and by Day 2, we were loping (by request…this is not necessary). At another ranch we’d visited, rides started out fast and furious…great for experienced riders but uncomfortable for those who ride only occasionally.

On subsequent days, we verbalized what type of ride we wanted during the morning check-in with Tyler, whether it be a walking ride, ride with plenty of breaks and play time for kids, medium ride (with trotting and some loping), or fast ride (with more bouts of loping). We rode with our family unit and also with new friends. I absolutely love riding, so I greatly enjoyed the riding program, but individuals who would rather pursue other actives could absolutely do so. My kids loved having their ‘own’ horses for the week, and bonded with them quickly. In fact, even though 13-year-old Calvin, who liked riding fast, ended up with a very slow horse, he didn’t want to switch…he’d learned to love slow Chico!

Dining at Three Bars:

Meals are served at 8 am, noon, and 6:30 pm at Three Bars, and the food is always good. Occasionally during our stay, it was only ok, and sometimes, it was amazing. Full disclosure: I’m not a foodie. Especially during a vacation where we work up such an appetite, I’d honestly rather have good food, and plenty of it, than great food, in tiny, fancy portions.

At Three Bars, you get the former. We had no complaints, and always had our fill. The dining staff did an excellent job accommodating my pescetarian dietary needs, as well as others’ gluten-free needs. They can accommodate any type of need, with advanced warning. Breakfast included staples such as egg dishes, hash browns, pancakes, and granola, and there was always cereal, fruit, yogurt, and toast. Coffee was average (if you’re a coffee connoisseur, bring your own!) and water, tea, and coffee was always set out during the day.

Lunch ranged from sandwich fixings to make-your-own-burrito bars, always with freshly-baked cookies and side salads. Dinners ranged from ribs to herb chicken to Italian pastas, always with something for everyone. If you come expecting gourmet fare, you’ll be disappointed, but if your primarily goal is to be served hearty fare, you’ll go away happy. We had brought snacks for our room, but never needed them.

Lodging at Three Bars:

The cabins at Three Bars are very comfortable, visually beautiful, and convenient. Each has a TV with plenty of channels (though we hardly ever turned ours on), coffee service, a full bathroom with tub, WiFi (a godsend since I had to work during the stay), and very cozy beds with high-end linens.

There are different cabin configurations, but we ended up with two connecting rooms (one with three beds for the kids and a queen bed for me), giving us two bathrooms. Rooms have mini-fridges and cabinet space for snacks, plus plenty of closet space for riding gear and outerwear. Each cabin has a porch with table and chairs out front, all overlooking the main lawn and lodge.

What to know before you go:

Everyone will need riding boots. The good news: boots can be rented from the ranch for $30/stay. This is a great value if you have older kids, as boots are expensive.
Everyone will want a cowboy hat. They have them for sale in the store for a reasonable price. We had our ahead of time.
Kids under 12 must wear a riding helmet. I felt great about this rule.
Remember you’ll need passports or copies of the kids’ birth certificates to get across the Canadian border.
Once at the ranch, you don’t need cash other than gratuity. All extra charges will go on a room charge. Tip should be 5-10% of the cost of the vacation, and can be given at the end of the stay.
The activities that are not all-inclusive include ATV-riding, shooting, fly fishing, golf, and alcohol from the bar.
All riding levels are accommodated. Don’t worry about lack of experience, or having too much experience.
The wrangler staff are primarily young people from Canada and Australia. All are wonderful, and will make your kids feel special.
Activities such as mountain biking, fishing, golf, and ATV riding can be scheduled at any time. Shooting sports and rafting are scheduled for set times.
Kids can participate in shooting sports, regardless of experience. As non-gun-owners, we felt the experience was very safe and positive, with an emphasis on respect for guns.
Bring several pairs of jeans per person, and plan to do laundry!
Expect to miss your horse when you leave!

We experienced Three Bars Ranch as guests of the ranch, for the purpose of review. All opinions are our own.

Big White Ski Resort: family-friendly skiing in Kelowna BC

January 21, 2013 By Amy Hagstrom

It speaks to Big White Ski Resort‘s dedication to families that there’s too many family-friendly activities, events, and programs to include in just one post. Over the next week, we’ll be featuring our favorites, in addition to this overview of the mountain and its lodging, dining, and family fun.

First, an overview from the Pit Stops for Kids video channel:

Skiing at Big White:

I asked around before arriving at Big White, and learned that this resort is known for three things: family-focused fun, lightweight, ‘champagne’ powder, and fog. (More on that last one in a bit.) From the moment we checked in at Central Reservations, it was evident the ‘family-focused’ part was no joke: we were given a full page of daily activities for kids, most of them complimentary. Throughout our stay, we experienced Big White’s bi-weekly ‘Carnival Night’ with bouncy houses, slides, carnival games and free cotton candy; hot chocolate by a bonfire; Family Apres Ski at the Moose Lounge; and a holiday parade the kids could participate in. Had we stayed longer, Nate, age 13, could have participated in Teen Wii Night, and Toby, age 8, and Calvin, age 11, could have attended a Kids’ Centre climbing wall event.

Because Big White is a completely ski-in, ski-out resort (yes, you can ski or walk everywhere), it’s very relaxing to get from Point A to Point B, and because the vibe here is very laid back, you’ll see kids sledding and adults snowshoeing or cross-country skiing throughout the village along the streets and pathways. We immediately embraced this attitude, leaving the car parked and hopping on the gondola from our mid-mountain condo to head to the lower Happy Valley adventure center and walking just a few steps to the Village center.

Thanks to Big White’s high elevation location in the Monashee mountains near Kelowna BC, the resort enjoys a steady amount of snowfall (they don’t make their own snow…they don’t need to). The tree skiing is consistently great, and the snow is dry and light, making it easy for even young kids to slide through the powder. Our boys loved the large amount of glade skiing, and I loved that I didn’t need to go all the way up the peak to find challenging terrain.

Big White’s reputation for fog is accurate as well, but you know what? It was no big deal. The dense fog can be disorienting, but local skiers know just what to do: head to the gladed sections of the lower mountain (such as Black Forest), and save the peaks for another day. We found the fog to often burn off, but if it doesn’t, just think of it as an excuse to tackle some of Big White’s other outdoor activities. While out in the fog, take a photo next to Big White’s famed ‘snow ghosts’.

Big White Ski and Board School:

Big White’s reputation as a family destination is well-deserved, and naturally, this extends to its Ski and Board School. Unlike some ski resorts, Big White’s ski school is not just day care (though they have that, too). As an expert skier, I was pleased to see the skill levels of each ski school class clearly marked on the Big White website, complete with YouTube videos of necessary skills so you can accurately place your kids in the right classes. Once on site, I was also happy to see the sheer number of ski school instructors; extras are always in reserve should they be needed on any given morning.

We dropped off Calvin and Toby at ski school for two half-days, and on Day 1, I braced myself for the usual chaos of ski school registration during peak season. It didn’t come. Though the Kids’ Centre (located directly across from the Village Centre Mall in the main village) was bustling, it ran like a well-oiled machine, thanks to efficient, friendly staff. Kids can be dropped off as early as 8:30 am for a 9:30 lesson, but they’re hardly suffering while they wait: the ‘no adults allowed’ Kids’ Centre houses lego tables, indoor slides and play spaces (yes, you can play in your ski boots), and tables for arts and crafts.

Security is well-run as well: kids are given scannable bar codes for their helmets and parents are issued identical codes they must present at pick-up. During lessons, kids wear GPS trackers, the data from which is later emailed to parents, so they can see where their child skied or boarded on the hill. I was impressed that at each pick up, my kids’ instructors sought me out to explain to me in detail how my kids were progressing. Toby’s instructor, a young man named Jordan, was especially detailed and friendly. I’ll admit: my kids don’t always want to have lessons when they could be free skiing, but both were happy to go back to the Kids’ Centre on Day 2.

Outdoor Adventure:

Big White is home to North America’s only ice climbing tower, an experience so unique, it deserves its own post. Also located nearby: Big White’s Mega Coaster snow tubing park, the highest elevation ice skating rink in Canada (on which kids can also play hockey, complete with referees), dog sledding (more on that as well), miles of nordic trails, sleigh rides, and snowmobiling.

Family Activities:

Kids can return to the Kids’ Centre almost every evening for scheduled, supervised activities, many of which are complimentary. Activities include wall climbs, snow tubing, and game nights, including dinner. Family activities abound as well: we checked out apres ski fare snacks and mocktails at the Moose Lounge after a full ski day, and took part in holiday events such as Big White’s annual Christmas Eve parade. Be sure to check for daily events offered (schedules can be found at the information center at the Village Centre Mall)…the list rivals that of a cruise ship!

Dining:

The beauty of true ski-in, ski-out lodging is that families can make their own meals in their condos. On the nights you choose to eat out, this also means fewer crowds (both at lunch and dinner). We grocery shopped en route to Big White at Kelowna, but also ate a few choice meals out. Our favorite dining locations:

1. The Bullwheel: This restaurant on the upper side of the village is a nice spot to duck into for a mid ski-day meal or dinner. The food is very fresh and often locally sourced, paired with Okanagan wines in the evening. We recommend the huge gourmet burgers and kids’ make-your-own pizza.

2. Beano’s: This breakfast and coffee spot is located right in the cozy Village Centre Mall, making it a convenient and yummy breakfast counter before dropping the kids off at lessons or picking up your tickets. We loved the breakfast sandwiches and the kids devoured their big cinnamon rolls.

3. Kettle Valley Steakhouse: This restaurant is casual while still delivering on excellent cuisine. If you’re in Big White during the holiday season, order Christmas dinner from Kettle Valley and have it delivered right to your condo. We experienced this firsthand, and had a delicious (and large portioned!) dinner of turkey, vegetables, stuffing, rolls, salad, cheesecake, and more.

4. Happy Valley Cafeteria: This cafeteria is just like that in most day lodges, with two differences: lower prices and better food. We loved their noodle bowls, and we were able to get healthy burgers for the kids (they liked the tuna burger, for instance). Don’t worry: there’s also fries, grilled cheese, hot dogs, and the like.

Lodging:

There is no ‘bad’ location at Big White, but if you want to be close to the village and right off an easy (green) run, our lodging at The Eagles Resort is perfect. Our three-bedroom, two-bath plus loft condo included a full kitchen, spacious living room with fireplace, huge boot/coat room, and fun three-bed loft for the kids. We had more room than we knew what to do with, plus ski lockers a few floors below us. We could step into our skis and right out onto the run, or walk just a few yards through a snowy tunnel to the village. After skiing, we relaxed in the large indoor/outdoor hot tub, and the kids made use of the communal game room.

The Eagles reminded us of the ski lodging of our youth: low on frills such as granite countertops and exposed wood beams, high on practical touches like glove-warming racks and a full ski tuning station in the ski storage locker. Each condo comes with a heated, indoor parking space (extra cars can park in the outside lot) and housekeeping refreshes towels and takes out garbage three days weekly. The Eagles was exactly what we needed to stay comfortably and conveniently at Big White.

As I disclose whenever applicable, Big White Ski Resort hosted us during our stay. Though appreciated, this generosity did not come with expectation of a positive review.

Butchart Gardens, Brentwood Bay, BC

September 13, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

At first glance in a guidebook or two, I didn’t think the Butchart Gardens had much to offer a family with three active kids. I was wrong: the two hours we spent there waiting for a recent ferry crossing from Sidney BC to Washington’s San Juan Islands was both relaxing for us and interesting to our school-aged boys.

Located in Brentwood Bay, just minutes from the busy ferry terminal in Sidney and a short drive from Victoria, BC, the gardens were originally created to beautify area rock quarries, and the result is quite the incredible feat. The gardens are divided into several sections, including (but not limited to) a traditional rose garden, a peaceful Japanese tea garden, an Italian garden, and a sunken garden in the rock quarry, with viewing outlook. For kids in particular there is a carrousel, as well as several ice cream stands and snack shops. Boat rides are available, and if you look carefully while touring the bottom of the Japanese garden, you’ll find a viewing hole through a hedge with a great (secret) view of the harbor.

I’m not sure Butchart Gardens would have entertained my kids longer than a few hours, but as a way to spend the afternoon waiting for a ferry departure, it was very pleasant. It’s not a cheap pit stop, so if you don’t need to be all the way up in Brentwood Bay, I’d opt for the more traditionally kid-friendly Pacific Undersea Gardens in Victoria.

Date last visited:

July 2012

Hours of operation:

Generally 9 am to 9 pm in summer (although many summer events allow for later closings) and 9 am to 4 pm in winter. The gardens come alive at Christmas time, and have later hours during the season.

Admission:

Summer admission is $29 for adults, $14 for youth (13-17), and only $3 for children (12 and under) plus 12 percent sales tax. Winter admission is significantly less (except Christmas).

Dining options:

Many! The grounds have snack stands as well as three restaurants, from a coffee shop to elegant dining. Picnic grounds are also available in the parking area (on a grassy strip).

Directions:

The gardens are located at 800 Benvenuto Avenue in Brentwood Bay. They’re easy to get to from either Victoria or elsewhere on Vancouver Island. See full directions from each city.

Parksville on Dwellable

Where to stay in Parksville, BC: Tigh-Na-Mara Resort and Spa

September 4, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

The first thing my kids noticed upon entering the grounds of Parksville BC‘s Tigh-Na-Mara Beach Resort was the pool house. Then the kids’ club space. Then the playground and the basketball and tennis court. Finally, they spotted the beach access leading to one of Parksville’s famous warm sand beaches. The first thing I noticed was the Cedars restaurant and Grotto Spa. To say Tigh-Na-Mara has it all is a true understatement, however, because what they don’t have on-site, they bring to their guests in the form of off-site activities and family excursions.

Our accommodations at Tigh-Na-Mara consisted of a two-bedroom log cabin adjacent to the tennis courts and playground (and just steps from beach access). The cabin was bigger than I expected, with a nice living room area with fireplace and flat screen TV, full kitchen with a dining table for four, and a futon-bed in addition to the queen bed in the first bedroom and two twins in the second. We also had a nice porch and picnic table. Other cabin loops are more secluded, but farther from the beach and playground, so families will need to assess priorities.

Parksville beaches are a phenomenon, or at least seemed so to us, used to beaches in the states: the tide varies by full kilometers here, so at low tide, the. Tigh-Na-Mara beach is over a kilometer in length from the resort to the water (bring something to haul your stuff, and chairs…the sand is constantly damp), but at high tide, the water laps the shore steps from the path, and is incredibly warm for the Northwest. Both high and low tide make for fun beach-going.

When not at the beach, Tigh-Na-Mara offers a drop-in kids’ club for no additional charge (a huge value) and an entire schedule of family off and on-site activities families can sign up for (additional charge). We participated in Twilight Golf, which was held at Morningstar Golf Course nearby. This activity, fully set up by the resort, included a private golf lesson for the family members with a Canadian PGA pro and plenty of time on the driving range. A Tigh-Na-Mara recreation staff member drove us to and from, and had the adults wished to spend the time in the spa (more on that to come) or the Cedars Restaurant, a rec staff member would have stayed with the kids (we opted to stay and watch). Adults are welcome to join the lesson, too! At $39 per person, Twilight Golf is a good value, and would be a perfect evening before setting up a full nine or 18 holes the next day.

The following morning, we consulted our resort schedule again and my mom (along with us for the trip) joined the kids for Tigh-Na-Mara’s Underwater Exploration of nearby tide pools with a marine expert while I enjoyed a day pass at the Grotto Spa. While they learned about intertidal wildlife in the sunshine, I treated myself to BC’s only mineral spa pool and hot tub (heavenly, if you’re wondering) and an hour in their relaxation room with complimentary tea, coffee, and fruit.

Tip: Check the resort’s activity schedule online when you book to sign up for popular activities beforehand. The kids’ club can be more spontaneous, but advanced notice is useful. Kids have to be potty trained to attend the club and activities without a parent, but can attend at any age with an adult. One on one babysitting is also available.

Date last visited:

July 2012

Distance from the interstate:

Only minutes from Canada’s BC-19.

Rates:

At the time of our visit, rates for a two-bedroom log cabin started at $380. Packages and deals abound, however, especially in the non-peak season of summer.

Dining options:

The Cedars offers fine dining, but kids eat free with adults from 5-6 pm, and they offer pizza delivery as well. In the morning,a pancake breakfast is $7.95 per person. We ordered a few pizzas during our stay and made use of our kitchen. Additional Parksville dining is only minutes away by car.

Directions:

Tigh-Na-Mara is located at 1155 Resort Drive in Parksville. From BC-19, take Island Highway to Resort Drive.

As I disclose whenever applicable, I experienced Tigh-Na-Mara and the Grotto spa at no charge, for the purpose of review. While I appreciate this opportunity (and the opportunity to share it with my readers), it came with no expectation of a positive review.

Parksville on Dwellable

Where to find tide pools in Tofino, Vancouver Island, BC

August 31, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

Every tide pool we saw in Tofino, BC on Vancouver Island’s west coast was more amazing than the last. After a while, we stopped exclaiming about it and learned to expect to be stunned by the intertidal beauty of this area. Where to find the best tide pools in Tofino? Below are our top picks:

1. MacKenzie Beach: Just a few miles south of Tofino, MacKenzie Beach stretches widely in low tide, allowing visitors to explore not only the rocky coastline at the south end, but several small islands that are not accessible in high tide. Start down near Ocean Village turn left for the rocky outcroppings. While we visited this beach, Calvin decided to try to count 100 sea stars: he stopped at over 300! In addition, you’ll find sea anemomes and lots of crabs and small fish. Most amazing (to us) were the abundance of ghost shrimp just under the sand in low tide. You can identify their burrows by the tiny ‘volcano’ shaped holes in the wet sand. If you dig, you’ll uncover one, but be warned: they’re squirmy, big, and a bit scary!

2. Chesterman Beach: Even more impressive than MacKenzie Beach, Chesterman Beach is larger, wilder, and features an amazing fissure in the rock where families can walk through in low tide. In the center of the Chesterman Beach is a private island; it’s permissible to walk to it and on it, but respect the private property signs on each end. We found it fun to reach this island, but the best tide pools are on the south side of the main beach, where the rocks reveal massive sea anemones and other intertidal wildlife. (At this beach, Calvin’s sea star count rose to over 600!) Go through the rock fissure and climb over the larger rocks with muscles and barnacles, and check in the large pools for crabs and hermit crabs. We even found a rare sunflower sea star, known as the biggest predator of the intertidal pool area. The colors and size of the tidal pool inhabitants on Chesterman are truly jaw-dropping. If you only visit one tidal pool area in Tofino, make it this one!

3. Lismer Beach: Lismer Beach is located next to more well-known Wickaninnish Beach (famous for its surfing and sand dunes), and is accessible by South Beach Trail (1.5 km round trip). Kids will love the chorus of ‘music’ the many pebbles on the beach make in the rolling surf, but caution should be exerted: only attempt the tide pools along the bluffs at extreme low tide. The trailhead is located near Pacific Rim National Park Reserve’s visitor’s center (a must-do): at the center, turn south.

Note: be sure to plan your visits to tide pools during low tide. Tidal information is available in the local paper, at every visitor center in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, and from any local.

Tofino on Dwellable

Where to stay in Tofino BC: a review of MacKenzie Beach Resort

August 24, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

As you might guess, the outdoor excursion, storm-watching, and surfing mecca of known as the west side of Vancouver Island offers more lodging in Tofino than anywhere else we visited on our July 2012 Vancouver Island trip. Families can choose from B&Bs, five-star resorts, vacation home rentals, and our favorite, beachfront resorts with individual cottages for let.

We made the MacKenzie Beach Resort our home base while exploring Tofino, and loved its laid-back atmosphere, can’t-beat-it beach access, and comfortable cottages. Located directly on MacKenzie Beach, the resort is the oldest in the Tofino area (though is now joined by several more along the same strip of sand). Families can choose between campsites or cottages, some of which are directly on the sand. We stayed in Cottage 3, which is a two-bedroom unit with a living room area, wood-burning stove, full kitchen, bathroom with whirlpool tub, and two bedrooms (one of which has bunk-beds). It slept five comfortably, and while the decor is not new and the furnishings have seen a few summers, we found the cottage to be just perfect for a relaxed stay.

MacKenzie Beach itself offers constant entertainment for busy kids: when the tide is low, it’s one of the best for Tofino tide pools, and families can even walk out to a small island to spot literally hundreds of sea stars and sea anenome. MacKenzie Beach does get some waves, though the south end is protected. In addition to beach activities, MacKenzie Beach Resort offers an indoor heated pool and hot tub (great for warming up after a dip in the ocean) and grass space for outdoor activities. There’s a small corner of the office that’s been made into a bit of a convenience store, but for most things, you’ll want to head into town (5 minutes away).

We loved experiencing Tofino during the day, and returning in the late afternoons for long evenings on the beach. At night, camp fires can be built on the sand, and the Tofino sunsets are amazing.

Date last visited:

July 2012

Distance from the interstate:

Right on Highway 4.

Rates:

At the time of my visit, peak summer rates were $399 for a two-bedroom cottage. In winter, families can certainly snag a deal. I found it interesting to note that rates for comparable cottages in the resorts adjacent to MacKenzie Beach Resort were listed as approximately $25 less per night. This is not significant, but does bear mentioning. Expect accommodations at MacKenzie Beach to be comfortable, but nothing fancy. Note:: maid service is not included in a stay. Fresh linens and towels are available.

Dining options:

Cottages have full kitchens (but no dishwashers) and a communal BBQ pit outside. Guests are expected to clean the kitchen up before departure.

Directions:

From Highway 4 heading into Tofino, follow signs to MacKenzie Beach. A large sign will point the way!

As I disclose whenever applicable, I experienced MacKenzie Beach Resort free of charge, for the purpose of review. While I appreciate this opportunity to bring a review to my readers, it came with no expectation of a positive review.

Where to stay in Ucluelet, BC: Black Rock Oceanfront Resort

August 13, 2012 By Amy Hagstrom

What everyone needs after an active day hiking, kayaking, or touring Vancouver Island’s west coast: a plunge pool and hot tub, rain shower, and cheery fire waiting at their resort. Families vacationing in Ucluelet BC get all that and more in Black Rock Oceanfront Resort. What, precisely? Try heated bathroom tiles, dramatic views, and fine dining, but more importantly to parenting traveling with kids: full kitchens, free bike rentals, and oversized tubs.

Located on the far western coast of Vancouver Island, Black Rock Oceanfront Resort is an outdoor-loving family’s dream. Not only do you get plenty of space (this resort is suites-only), but Black Rock was designed with nature at the forefront: the contemporary architecture only accentuates what’s already there, allowing for breathtaking and dramatic views. These views don’t come cheaply, but what families get in return cannot be measured in a room rate. During our visit, we felt as though we were outside near the crashing surf and rugged coastline the whole time, even when we were indoors.

Our family of five had adjoining suites (one studio and one one-bedroom), which included two huge bathrooms (both with rain shower and tub), a full kitchen and living area, plus an extra kitchenette, two bedrooms, sleeping for eight, and even a washer-dryer. We also enjoyed complimentary wifi (standard) and two spacious decks past our floor-to-ceiling glass windows overlooking the Pacific.

The resort boasts a full fitness center and spa, with kid-friendly access to the outside plunge pool and two hot tubs. When I think of the term ‘plunge pool’, I think deep and cold; this one is neither: it’s only 3 meters deep and heated, but still significantly colder than than hot tubs, making it fun to jump from one to another in chilly weather. Families can cook full meals in the kitchens, but we opted to only prepare breakfast, the adults eating dinner out at Black Rock’s Fetch Restaurant. They do have a kids’ menu that looked pretty tempting (and only $10 per plate Canadian), but we ordered a pizza for our kids. The ambiance of Fetch is half the draw (it’s located right next to the coastline view), and we wanted to enjoy it in peace.

While staying on-site families have free use of cruiser bikes to use around Ucluelet, as well as the option to join in for various family-friendly area activities, such as hiking in Pacific Rim National Park, kayaking with nearby Majestic tours, or clamming, whale watching, or surfing (lessons available!).

Date last visited:

July 2012

Distance from the Intestate: a few minutes from the Pacific Rim Highway (4).

Room Rates:

Rates vary widely by season; check the Black Rock website for the latest information. Approximate pricing for the week we were on-site (in the height of the summer season) was $300 Canadian.

Dining options:

In addition to Fetch, Black Rock is adjacent to the town of Ucluelet, which offers dining in every price rage.

Directions:

Black Rock Resort is located at 596 Marine Drive, Ucluelet. It’s a 2.5 hour drive from the ferry terminal in Departure Bay (for travel from Vancouver) or a 20 minute drive from Tofino.

Exploring Vancouver B.C.: Capilano Suspension Bridge

June 23, 2011 By Amy Hagstrom

Only ten minutes outside of the city center, Vancouver offers family-friendly outdoor attractions kids will go crazy for in Capilano and Grouse Mountain. The first stop (and an easy free shuttle ride from Canada Place), is Capilano Suspension Bridge, an engineering marvel stretched 450 feet across a high river gorge in thanks to nineteenth century Vancouver settler and builder George Grant Mackay. In the years since its completion, the bridge and its surrounding businesses, including a restaurant, have been turned in to an interactive playland ripe for exploration.

In addition to daring a trip across the bridge (which felt very sturdy but does sway alarmingly in the breeze!), kids can get a ‘squirrel’s eye view’ of the alpine rainforest canopy in the park’s Treetop Adventure, a network of ariel platforms connected by smaller bridges making their way through the dense forest. From there, a selection of forest paths lead visitors through the forest floor, where wildlife is pointed out on educational displays, ponds and undergrowth host small critters and ducks, and smaller, arched bridges traverse streams.

Just for kids: Capilano does a great job drawing kids into the eco and educational aspects of the Treetop area with an interactive scavenger hunt. Upon completion (which takes kids through various tasks they find through clues) they receive a prize.

The park’s newest feature, the Cliffwalk, was my favorite. Completed in early 2011, this exhibit leads visitors out over the edge of the gorge on a glass and steel pathway (with solid glass side rails). It was a thrill to look down and see only air! The views were fabulous, and you can get great photos of the suspension bridge from the Cliffwalk, too.

From Capilano, it’s an easy public bus ride ($2.50 fare) to Grouse Mountain (ten minute ride), where a veritable outdoor playground awaits. For the price of admission, families can take the Skyride tram to the top of the mountain, explore the wildlife refuge, watch productions on the Theater in the Sky, take a chairlift ride, and more. For additional cost, zip lines and the Eye in the Sky wind turbine will catch kids’ eye. If you think you’ll have kids wanting to do it all (like mine), extra activities can be bundled with general admission.

Extra Tip: If Capilano leaves you wanting more, another (free) suspension bridge exists outside of Vancouver. You’ll need a car to visit the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge, but the effort will be rewarded with an even more authentic view of natural British Columbia. Check out five other adventurous things to do with kids outside of Vancouver at local blogger The Travelling Mom.

Date last visited: June 13, 2011

Distance from the interstate/city: Five to ten minutes outside downtown Vancouver.

Hours of operation: May 28th-September: 8:30 am to 8 pm.

Admission costs: Adults are $32, youth (age 13-16) are $21, children (6-12) are $12, and under 6 are free. Get 20% off if you arrive at the park an hour before closing! (This is do-able: the park generally takes 1-1.5 hours to view.)

Food services: There are several snack shops and a counter-service restaurant within the park, and a cozy cottage-style full-service restaurant directly across the street (a great choice while waiting for your shuttle).

Website: www.capbridge.com

Directions: Catch the free shuttle from Canada Place in Vancouver (it also stops at several downtown hotels), or drive through Stanley Park over Lion’s Gate Bridge and along Capilano Road to 3735 Capilano.

Exploring Vancouver, B.C.: Granville Island with kids

June 20, 2011 By Amy Hagstrom

When I set out to explore Vancouver’s Granville Island on a sunny Monday afternoon, I didn’t expect to like it as much as I did. Known best for its upscale public market and boutique shops, I certainly didn’t think it would have much to entice kids. I was wrong. Granville Island began winning me over before I even got there: from the dock at the very end of Hornby Street, I waited (all of two minutes) for the Aquabus to carry me across the hairsbreath of water that separates the mainland from the island, and when it arrived in all it’s cute, multi-colored glory, bumped up against the dock, and the operator gave a friendly wave, I was in love.

Once on-island, the public market is only a few blocks away. I stepped in, looked around, and instantly reached for my camera: the colors, smells, and sheer artistry of the arrangement of food and wares was enough to take my breath away (or just make me want to breathe very deeply). I’d wondered what there’d be for kids to do, but between the samples being offered around every corner, the merchandise piled high in all directions, and the people watching, I shouldn’t have worried.

I immediately bought a French crepe with cinnamon and sugar, then set out to see what other tricks this little island had up its sleeve. The shops along the adjacent streets were indeed upscale, but not stuffy. I’d estimate that I’d feel comfortable taking my kids into at least every other one to poke around. The best was one (or rather several) I stumbled upon by accident: Kids Market on Cartwright Street. This two-story marketplace stuffs 25 shops under one roof, and the result is an eye-popping array of toys, stuffed animals, puppets, clothing, and books overflowing from every countertop, shelf, and hallway. If the kids get tired of wandering (ha!), there’s even a play space with brightly colored tubes and ball pits that run the length and height of the building.

After my visit to toy heaven, I returned to the public market for lunch: the countless options within close proximity make it an ideal place for a family meal. Among the long stretch of food stalls, I found a vegetarian Thali dish served on a tin plate (you get a $2 deposit back for returning it). Next to me, a toddler ate organic cheese and grapes bought a few isles down, and a little girl worked her way through a danish as big as her head.

Also on-island are restaurants, comedy clubs, art galleries, parks, and kayak and boat rentals. Talented street musicians perform most days, and kids can walk along the harbor watching the boats come in. It’s a wonderful way to either spend very little money or quite a lot while experiencing Vancouver.

Date last visited: June 13, 2011

Distance from downtown Vancouver: Two minutes by boat or bridge.

Admission: None, but passage on an Aquabus will cost $3.25 for adults and $1.75 for kids (one way) from the Hornby dock. No need to purchase ahead of time. (Full list of schedules and fares.)

Hours of operation: The island is open seven days a week, 9 am to 7 pm.

Directions: The Hornby dock is a 15-20 minute walk from most points in downtown Vancouver. (It took me 20 from Canada Place.) City bus routes can also get you there. If you opt to drive, the Granville Bridge is accessed by Granville Street.

Vancouver on Dwellable