Colorado - Pitstops for Kids

Grown-up Getaway: What to do in Breckenridge in fall

October 18, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Why would you go to Breckenridge in fall? As one local resident, mountain bike pro, and chef put it, “Why wouldn’t you?” Autumn is a special time in this Colorado mountain town.

When I arrived in mid-September, I half-expected a ghost town: after all, Breck is known for skiing. Instead, I found a town alive with a quiet, happy hum of activity: tourists and locals alike were enjoying the fall weather while hiking, biking, and enjoying special events only found in Breck in fall. Here’s what to do with a weekend getaway with or without the kids:

Go hiking:

Leaf peeping is at its peak in September! For a challenging hike, head up Spruce Creek Road (just a few miles out of town off Hwy 9) and park at Spruce Creek Trailhead. The Spruce Creek Trail takes hikers through alpine forests for just over two miles, then connects with the Mohawk Lakes Trail. This final 1.7 mile section gets steep, past snow melt waterfalls and the remains of mining structures en route to Lower and Upper Mohawk lakes…well worth the effort. Look for mountain goats and plenty of fall color on the slopes opposite.

Need more ideas for local hikes or want to hike with an expert? Contact CBST Adventures in town and go with a pro!

Get a massage:

While in Breck, I had the best massage of my life at Harmony Health Massage and Wellness Spa. What made it so special? Owner and massage therapist Inanna Hall, who took on the task of getting travel day stress out of my shoulders and neck from a holistic, almost spiritual approach. Her philosophy is to approach any massage from an intuitive angle, and it showed. I had one of her synergy massages, and added a session with oxygen for only $30. This is a smart thing to do while adjusting to Breckenridge’s high altitude.

Get on a mountain bike:

There’s more mountain biking in and around Breckenridge than you’ll know what to do with. Pick up a hiking and biking trail map when you arrive, and use the universal green (easy), blue (intermediate), and black (expert) color coding to pick your routes. Most of the marked trails around town are single or double track, though dirt roads can be tacked on for good measure. As a beginner-intermediate mountain biker, these are the trails I tackled:

Lower Flume: Access the Lower Flume trail directly from town via the recreational bike path (more on that below). From the Breckenridge Recreation Center, follow the path out of town to where it connects with Lower Flume. Or, follow Main Street down to the 7-Eleven, turn right, and access from the recycling center.
Betty’s Trail: Find this intermediate trail right off Reiling Road. It’s just under one mile, and parallels the road most of the way (you won’t get disoriented). While it goes up and down, it’s not too rocky, though you’ll want to take care on the sharp turns.
Turk’s Trail and Reiling Drudge Trail: Further up Reiling, a parking lot offers access to a wider network of trails, including intermediate Turk’s and easy (and short) Reiling Drudge. Turk’s has quite the incline and tends to be rocky, but intermediate to advanced riders will love that it connects to more in the blue category, or can be looped with easy B&B.The Reiling Drudge Trail is fun because of the historical plaques marking remnants of mining history in the area.
XLOU8: My favorite intermediate trail I experienced, XLOU8 can be accessed from the same Reiling Drudge parking lot, and connects to Minnie Mine trail. It’s up and down, fairly free of rocks, and has an interesting mine to ride past.
Pence Miller: This intermediate trail can be accessed directly from Mountain Thunder Lodge via a short access trail. It winds above the resort area at the bottom section of the ski runs.

Pick up a mountain bike to rent for the day or multiple days at Avalanche Sports, located on North Main. They’ll give you a helmet, which is essential. Also bring water, a snack, and a layer or two for any ride. While it’s easy to return back to town fairly quickly from most easy and intermediate trails, it’s still good to be prepared for any weather. Find trail maps here.

Not sure you want to mountain bike? Take the recreational bike path through town instead. This paved path runs almost to Keystone!

Take a distillery tour:

The Breckenridge Distillery has a tasting room on Main Street, but also a full factory tour offered at their distillery on Airport Road. This tour is fascinating…and yes, it includes samples. Each tour is 30 minutes, and takes guests from a tasting area to the distilling rooms and barreling rooms. Our tour guide knew the business inside-out, and answered all our questions relating to both the distilling process and the variety of spirits created (which include vodka, bourbon whiskey, bitters, and seasonal specialties). Tours are free! Must be 21 or over.

Stroll around town:

Main Street runs from the ski resort village all the way down to the far end of town, and is chock full of great dining and shopping. And no, it’s not dead in the fall. Instead, it’s intimate, with locals emerging after a busy tourist summer season. Check out the shops, eat a crepe at Crepes a la Cart, grab a craft cocktail at Modis, and just take in the scene. While walking downtown, consider taking a historic walking tour from the Breckenridge Heritage Alliance.

Need dining recs? We have them!

Take in the Breck Film Fest:

The Breck Film Fest takes over town one week every September, and is a fun opportunity to see Hollywood in the mountains. Come for opening night, and grab affordable tickets to the opening show or opening night party. We were lucky enough to see the feature film for the festival’s Adventure Reel, Snowman. The atmosphere is relaxed, casual, and ultra-cool.

What do you like to do in Breckenridge? In what season?

Where to hike in Breckenridge with kids

October 15, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Think Breckenridge, Colorado is only a winter ski destination? No way! This mountain town is a great pick for summer and fall travel as well, offering historical significance, museums and culture, great dining, and, our personal favorite, excellent hiking for families.

When families arrive in Breck, they’ll find maps with literally dozens of hiking trails accessible right from town. Many of these hikes will include mining history built in, either the form of signage explaining historical significance or historical structures or mining equipment that remains behind. Here’s where to hike in Breckenridge in multiple categories:

Easy hikes:

Burro Trail: Accessed directly in town, the Burro Trail has a gentle grade (it was literally the trail burros used to haul gear). The first half mile is easy-breezy, perfect for young kids, and then it keeps going for miles, all the way out of town to high elevations. Families can connect to the Spruce Creek Trail and Wheeler Trail further afield.
Sawmill Creek: This 1.5 mile loop starts just below and west of Snowflake Lift, which is close to Four O’Clock Road and Kings Crown Road. It has minimal altitude gain, and there’s plenty of shade along the way. The trail leads up to a beautiful reservoir: bring a picnic lunch!
Reiling Drudge Trail: This trail, located at the top of Reiling Road, connects to several top-notch mountain biking trails. It’s multi-use, but an easy, short hike to the Reiling Drudge. This remnant from the mining era is impressively intact, and shows how this type of mining impacted the environment (you can see the piles of rock and ore still left behind, though the scenery is still very pretty). Historical markers tell hikers more about the site. If you want a longer hike, continue from the drudge trail to the Minnie Mine Trail. Here, you’ll see more plaques and remains of mining buildings.

Kids don’t want to hike? Head to River Walk Park, where kids can wade in the Blue River in summer and fall and play on the playground in all seasons.

Harder hikes:

Mohawk Lakes: This series of alpine lakes can be tackled in an eight mile loop, or families can simply hike to the first few. From the trailhead, it’s just over three miles to Lower Mohawk, which sits in a bowl with Upper Mohawk just out of sight above it. They’re followed by several more lakes along a chain. The path can be steep at times, but the way is broken up by lots to look at: kids will love the historic mining remnants still cluttering the landscape, and snow melt waterfalls such as Continental Falls. Get to the trailhead by heading out Hwy 9 and turning right on Spruce Creek Road. Park at the trailhead 1.2 miles up.
Bakers Tank Loop: While most of this five mile loop trail is intermediate, there are a few climbs to be had. The trail follows an historic railroad line and has Western mountain views. Start at the Bakers Tank Trailhead on Boreas Pass Road. The first three miles are along Boreas Pass Road, heading south.
Black Powder Pass: At 3.4 miles (roundtrip) with an elevation gain, this hike is solidly in the intermediate range. From Boreas Pass Road, go up to the top of Boreas Pass, and take the trail just before the Section House. Families get above the tree line without a long hike, but remember, you’ll be at over 12,000 feet, so take your time. Look for views of the Tenmile Range.

Hardest hike:

Crystal Lakes: Get above the tree line hiking to the Crystal Lakes. These small, high alpine lakes sit at over 11,000 feet, and the way is very steep in places, and mostly exposed. Access these lakes from the Burro Trail or drive partway up Spruce Creek Road or Crystal Lake Road (4×4 driving essential). Look for picas (like small rabbits that make a high pitched call) and mountain goats.

Tip: Want to get a taste of mining history in the area without hiking to it? Head to the Country Boy Mine, where kids can go inside mine shafts and pan for gold. This historical site has very good, though realistic, tours. Young kids may be frightened when the lights are turned off and hydraulic machinery is turned on to stimulate how it would have felt and sounded like in the mine in bygone eras.

Note: No matter where you hike in Breckenridge, you’ll feel the significant elevation. Get tips on dealing with high altitude!

Have you hiked in Breckenridge? Where do you recommend?

Tips for Rocky Mountain National Park with kids

July 21, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Rocky Mountain National Park is one of the United States’ premier family destinations, a jewel in the national park crown. In the summertime, the weather is beautiful, the scenery spectacular, and the opportunity to interact with nature unparalleled. Here are some things to know to help you make the most out of visiting with your kids.

Tips for Rocky Mountain National Park with kids:

West side vs. east side:

Experts say the west side of the park (accessed via Grand Lake) is less crowded than the east side (accessed via Estes Park). However, our visit was based in Estes, so this post focuses on the east side of the park.

Be prepared:

It storms somewhere in the mountains every afternoon, and even in the valleys, the weather is very cool in the mornings and evenings. Dress in layers. Wear long pants. Hiking boots really do make a difference on the uneven terrain. Use sunscreen and bug spray, and consider investing in rain ponchos.

Trail Ridge Road:

This 48-mile drive from Estes Park to Grand Lake is an all-day adventure that climbs several thousand feet through the tree line and into the arctic tundra. Along the route you’ll find countless amazing overlooks and a handful of hiking trails, as well as the Alpine Visitors Center. Trail Ridge Road can be a great experience, but be aware that altitude sickness is a real thing. Take it slow so everyone has time to adjust, and drink lots of water.

Don’t miss out on ranger-led hikes and programs:

You can learn about stars, wildlife, ecology, and more. Schedules are available in the visitors centers. The junior ranger program is a great way to get the kids invested in the park system. Start early in your visit to give your kids plenty of time to complete the activities.

There’s a reason why the popular hikes are popular:

Many of the hiking trails in RMNP are long, and many of the shorter ones are very steep. So if your family is too young for long or steep hikes, you will be part of the throngs visiting a relatively small number of trails. Based on our experiences, I have two suggestions:

First, get up early—really early. Many of the family-friendly hikes start at Bear Lake, which is a significant drive from Estes, and the parking lot fills early. Have everything prepped the night before; go to bed early and get up at 4:30 or 5 to beat the crowds. Afternoon naps are our friends.

Second, don’t view rain as an automatic death knell to hiking. Afternoon rainstorms often pass quickly. We arrived at the Cub Lake trailhead at the start of a pop-up storm. We waited out the worst of it in the van but then donned rain ponchos and headed out. Twenty minutes later, the sun was out. Two days later we started for Alberta Falls in an intermittent drizzle, and we had the trail almost to ourselves. With ballcaps beneath rain ponchos, we didn’t really get wet at all. You might think you’re sacrificing scenery, but there is a different beauty in hiking amid the clouds. It was well worth the effort. (Caveat: lightning is a different story. As with lightning anywhere, you want to be cautious.)

Hiking with young children:

It is possible to take a stroller on some of the trails at RMNP, but in most cases your best bet is backpack carriers. No need to buy one; they’re available for rent in downtown Estes Park.

If your kids are beyond a backpack, you’ll need to plan carefully. Prep your kids in advance for longer, more strenuous hikes—not just physically, but mentally. My sister managed to get her 4-year-old daughter to Emerald Lake, a 3.6-mile round trip with an elevation gain of 605 feet, by having her pretend she was Wonder Woman.

Park amenities:

Expect to be out of cell service most of the time you’re in the park.
Stay on top of the bathroom situation. Staying well hydrated is part of an enjoyable visit at high altitudes, so you also have to stay on top the need for bathrooms. There are facilities at many trail heads, but not all.
The visitors’ centers have clean restrooms and information desks, as well as a range of services including ranger-led programs, gift shops, and educational displays.
The national park service runs shuttle buses in the Bear Lake Road Corridor late May through early October. The buses are free, but park entrance fee is required for the Hiker Shuttle, which boards outside the park. Using the buses helps traffic flow and allows you to enjoy the scenery.

It takes longer than you think it will:

Traffic through Estes Park gets backed up. The lines at the entrance stations get backed up. Construction in the park causes traffic backup. And hiking at altitude is slower and more strenuous than you might expect. Pack snacks or lunch and plenty of water, and take lots of breaks.

Fees:

Entry fees for Rocky Mountain National Park are very modest at $20 per vehicle for one day or $30 for 7 days. Fees can also be paid per person. You can purchase passes ahead of time online.

Rocky Mountain National Park is located just under two hours west of Denver, Co. Parking and services provided by the national park service are free, although a limited number of adventure outfitters are permitted to operate within the national park.

Our family was offered a media pass to RMNP by Visit Estes Park. My enthusiasm for this amazing place, however, long predates this visit.

Guide to skiing Breckenridge with teens (by teens)

January 20, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Breckenridge Mountain is a huge ski resort with something for absolutely every type of skier and rider. On our latest trip, we went with our teens and pre-teen, who are all expert skiers and riders. I thought I’d let them tell readers their favorite places on the mountain from their perspective. If you have older kids and teens who like steeps and deeps, this is the post to read!

Note to parents with beginning skiers and riders: Breckenridge’s ski school is among the best we’ve seen, and entire sections of the resort are devoted to green and blue (beginner and intermediate) runs. While this is not the ‘Breck’ we’re covering in this post, learners will be right at home!

Guide to skiing Breckenridge, according to kids who like moguls, trees, and bowls:

The bowls above the tree line are amazing, but only if conditions are right. On windy days or when they’re not open, due to avalanche control, head into the trees! Our favorite tree skiing at Breck is probably the Windows off Peak 9. From the Mercury SuperChair or the E Chair, take the trail to Window 1 and 2, and ski through trees into our favorite place in all of Breck: the ravine bordering a creek! There are winding trails, jumps, and bumps here and it goes on for ages!

There is a lot of out-of-boundary terrain at Breck, and there are gates to access these areas in designated spots. Don’t duck the rope! At the top of Peak 9, there’s a gate where you can hike for about 20 minutes to access some fun stuff, but remember: you have to have a pack, beacon, and shovel with you (and a friend). Our parents’ rule is that we have to take an avalanche safety course before they’ll buy us beacons, so we had to skip this spot.

But: if you still want to hike to great terrain, there are places to do this without leaving the resort boundary. If Imperial chair is not running, we like to hike from Peak 9 at the top of E Chair to the Back 9. The hike is long and hard (about 20 minutes, but it feels longer and you’ll get sweaty) but then you get to ski down your choice of double blacks that haven’t been skied out. After the open bowls, you’ll end up in the same creek run from above.

For lots of steep, mogul runs, head to Peak 10. This was our mom’s favorite peak. Go left at the top of Falcon SuperChair, and try Black Hawk or Dark Rider (double black diamonds).

Peak 7 is an intermediate hill, but at the top is lots of good stuff you can access if Imperial is open. We also liked 6 Chair, which had more moguls and above-tree stuff, on the side of Peak 8.

There are several terrain parks, but be warned: the large and medium ones are HUGE! We like terrain parks but had to stay on the small one…which was like our medium one at home! You can find the small one on Peak 9, called the Highway.

If you like bowls with plenty of spots to find trees to run through, get yourself to the T Bar. Riding the T Bar can be tricky at first, but just watch the people ahead of you, and don’t forget to stay standing…you don’t sit on the T. It’s harder to ride for snowboarders than skiers. When snowboarding, we place the T closer to our hip than our behinds. Riding the T Bar is entertaining, too, because about 1 in 10 people fall off.

Even if you are a very good skier, Breck’s kid zones are a lot of fun. Look for the small terrain trails throughout the family zones and intermediate runs. We found one with a mock mine tunnel to ski through and one with an ore bucket. It’s just lots of fun.

Disclosure: We skied and rode Breck as guests of the resort, in order to report back on where to go for the best runs. All opinions are our own!

Vail luxury ski hotel: Sonnenalp hotel review

December 16, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

I have been lucky enough to stay in many luxury ski hotel properties, from Whistler to Tahoe to points east. My stay at The Sonnenalp, a Leading Hotels of the World property in Vail, Colorado, met the expectations that properties like the Fairmont or the Ritz Carlton had set for me, but also exceeded those expectations in subtle ways.

What do I mean by this? The Sonnenalp Hotel, which is a true family-owned property, in the same family for four generations, has a very understated and timeless style of luxury and service. From the moment you drive into the porte-cochère and your ski gear is whisked effortlessly away by the ski concierge team to the simple yet thoughtful texts sent by the front desk staff, inquiring how your stay is going and whether there is anything they can do for you, at The Sonnenalp, it’s all about quietly and efficiently serving, while providing a timeless and lovely place to call home in the heart of Vail.

While beautiful, the Sonnenalp exhibits a cozy Bavarian elegance, not a flashy or sleek luxury vibe. Inside, the long halls with meandering staircases with wooden handrails call to mind a European ski chalet; in fact, in some parts of the hotel, I truly would mistake my location for the Alps. All the guest spaces of the hotel, from the small front lobby to the expansive King’s Club lounge (arguably the heart of the hotel) exhibit an understated but sophisticated elegance. You’d never make the mistake that you were in a budget hotel, by any means, but you are also spared any sort of stuffy or snooty ambiance.

Sonnenalp rooms:

Ever stayed at a five-star, very expensive property and looked around your hotel room and noted you were actually lacking a lot of useful items, like a fridge, table, or microwave? The Sonnenalp has 112 suites to its 15 rooms, with a focus on comfort. I stayed in one of their two-level mountain suites, which was laid out with a living room and wet bar space downstairs (with fireplace) and two bedrooms upstairs, with over 1300 square feet total space. Be sure to ask for a few room fans upon check-in, as we found the upstairs to get stuffy. I appreciated having a Nespresso machine, a minibar, a second fridge for storing our own things, a microwave, and two and a half bathrooms.

We enjoyed turndown service, lovely robes for use in the room and at the spa area, and eco-friendly bath amenities. The only thing I found missing: access to a washer and dryer, or even just a dryer, in the suites. When skiing with a family, a dryer is huge.

Sonnenalp European spa:

At The Sonnenalp, the European spa concept means that in addition to their luxurious spa, most of the spa’s 10,000 square feet is accessible for all guests, including children. What this looks like: when you enter the spa area, you are not stopped at a sign-in desk (though they have one). Instead, you’re invited into the large space that houses a 360 degree fireplace with sunken seating, a full bar (with oxygen bar), and the indoor pool and hot tub. Off of this room are the men’s and women’s locker rooms, sauna, steam rooms, and fitness center…open to everyone (though children under 16 are not allowed in the back locker rooms or fitness center of the spa). Out glass doors by the pool, the outdoor section of the pool and two additional outdoor hot tubs await.

While kids need to be respectfully quiet in this greater spa area, they are welcome, and what results is a very cozy, warm space for families to gather apres-ski or anytime. For adults, complementary yoga classes are held here almost daily, as well as personal training services. While the fitness center is not large, it has the cardio and weight training equipment needed.

While I love that most of the spa can be appreciated by everyone, I do recommend booking at least one spa treatment during your stay. My aromatherapy massage was one of the best I’ve ever had, made even more relaxing in the knowledge that the rest of my group could be having fun in the pools and hot tubs. A poolside/spa-side menu is available (though outdoor pool deck service is seasonal).

Sonnenalp dining:

The Sonnenalp has multiple restaurants onsite, and of course, you’re in the heart of the Vail village, so many additional restaurants are within walking distance. As noted above, the cozy King’s Club, with bar, a ‘living room’ type space, and even a library, is the place to start your evening with a drink during their happy hour. It’s also the place to return later in the evening for live music. A must do is Swiss Chalet, Sonnenalp’s nod to Alpine cuisine, with fondue and raclette, and for the most casual dining option, head to Bully Ranch, the hotel’s Western-themed restaurant (where you’ll instantly feel like you’re in Wyoming, not Germany).

While Sonnenalp may be best known for Swiss Chalet’s fondue dinner, their breakfast buffet, held daily at Ludwig’s, is in danger of outshining it all. There’s more than any one person could possibly eat at this gourmet buffet of hot dishes, granolas, fresh fruits, berries, cheese spreads, bagels and lox, smoked salmon, artisan breads, and more. The buffet is $35 per person (or $23 for the continental version), but don’t gasp just yet: with most reservations, it can be included in the cost of the stay as an add-on (well worth it). If you don’t add the buffet on and don’t want to pay that price, there is also an a la carte menu, as well as room service. By no means is Sonnenalp dining inexpensive, but it is part of the overall experience of the hotel.

Sonnenalp activities:

The hotel has a kids’ club, which is complementary with activities planned for kids daily, with drop-in options. At the time of my visit, the club was open from 4 pm to 6 pm, which was great: parents can enjoy happy hour while the kids are busy. This service is for kids three and up who are potty trained, but even if you have a younger one, stop by for a complementary box of sanitized toys to take back to your room. For older kids, there’s a game room adjacent. Get always updated kids’ club information.

The planned activities for adults, beyond the spa and fitness offerings, such as the snowshoeing treks aforementioned, were offered six days a week during my visit. Of course, a main activity for parents is simply relaxing. I recommend sitting in the library with one of their famous mudslides.

If visiting in winter, most families plan to ski. Here’s how the ski concierge services work at Sonnenalp:

Because the hotel is about three blocks from Gondola One (where you can upload for Vail skiing), Sonnenalp guests have access to nearby Gorsuch Ski Cafe. The ski concierge team will transport your gear there upon your arrival to the hotel. Guests walk the few blocks in comfortable winter boots, instead of ski boots, and grab their gear from the concierge there. The space has ample room for getting on gear and storing skis and boards. You can also apply sunscreen here and there’s seating for 40-50.

For summer season guests, Sonnenalp has their own private golf course, with a much large fitness center and pool complex, as well as on-site dining, Harvest. The fitness center and Harvest are actually open year-round, and shuttles can be arranged from the hotel. There is a daily fee for golf, but I was assured hotel guests have use of the fitness area complementarily.

Photo credit: Amy Whitley and Sonnenalp.

Disclosure: I stayed at Sonnenalp as a guest of the hotel, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.

Dinosaur National Monument with Kids

July 4, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Spanning both Utah and Colorado, Dinosaur National Monument is a national park destination too massive to tackle in a day, or even a few days. During our visit, we opted to check out only one section of the park, on the Utah side, but we tasted just enough of this park to know we’ll be back. Here’s how to plan a trip to Dinosaur National Monument with kids:

Know the lay of the land:

There are two visitors centers in the monument: Quarry and Canyon, which also represent the major points of access to the park. Quarry is located on Highway 40 in Utah near Vernal, at Jensen. It’s a short drive from the highway. Canyon is located further east on 40 on the Colorado side, with Deerlodge Park even further east. The Gates of Lodore access is on the opposite end of the park, to the north off 34 in Colorado. The entire park is filled with rivers and canyons (the Green River as well as the Yampa). Here’s what to do at each section.

Quarry:

This is your spot for viewing the dinosaur fossils Dinosaur National Monument is known for. Start at the visitors center and watch the short film on the discovery of dino fossils, then check out the exhibits until you’re ready to board the free open-air shuttle to the Quarry Exhibit Hall. This is a must-do: here, you’ll see the great wall of dinosaur bones embedded in the rock (preserved in this way so visitors can see how the ‘log jams’ of bones came to be, under layers of soil). You can even touch some of the 149-million-year-old fossils. Additional exhibits explain what you’re looking at, as do park rangers on duty.

After shuttling up to the exhibit hall, we recommend taking the short Fossil Discovery Trail on the way back down. It’s not shaded, so plan on this one early in the day, but it’s downhill, and there are three spur trails that will lead you to more fossils and even some petroglyphs along the trail. Take the free audio driving tour next, which leads you to more petroglyphs, or the longer Sound of Silence Trail or Desert Voices Trail. Shaded picnic areas are adjacent to the visitor center.

Canyon:

Aptly named, this is the gateway to Dinosaur National Monument’s canyon country. There are no dino fossils in this section of the park. You can drive the 31-mile Harpers Corner Road and hike a Harpers Corner (a short hike suited for kids). This section of the park is open seasonally however, as it gets very wet and sometimes impassible.

Deerlodge Park is the launching point for Yampa River trips, whereas the Gates of Lodore area is the launching point for Green River trips.

If you want to add a river rafting trip to your exploration of Dinosaur National Monument, we suggest going on OARS Rafting’s Gates of Lodore or Yampa rafting trip, to be fully immersed in the park in ways not possible by car on one’s own.

The Home Ranch review: Colorado dude ranch

July 2, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

If you book a stay at The Home Ranch, located just outside Steamboat Springs, Colorado, you’d better get used to hearing the word ‘yes’. As in, ‘Yes, we can accommodate that’, or, ‘Yes, we’ll make that happen’, or ‘Yes, you most certainly can’. And yes, this ‘can do’ attitude is a delight to hear during a dude ranch vacation.

We discovered this rhetoric early on during our early summer visit, when I hoped to spend a little extra time with my assigned horse for the week in the fenced riding arena before hitting the many bridle trails. Immediately, despite (or perhaps because of) a daily schedule that runs like a well-oiled machine, head wrangler Michael Moon made sure it happened. I had two excellent sessions in the arena, with wranglers Davy and Bree. I heard ‘yes’ again and again throughout our stay: yes to the family hoping to hop on mountain bikes at the last minute, yes to dietary needs that ranged from pescatarian to vegan, yes to a run for blueberries at breakfast, yes to fly fishing at a specific location.

We’ve now sampled four North American dude ranches, all of which serve up all-inclusive vacations located amid stunning natural beauty with plenty of opportunity for outdoor recreation. All require Western riding boots and cater to families seeking week-long stays. After that, they differ considerably, which is why it’s important to know how to pick the right dude ranch for your family. Or you can cheat, and book The Home Ranch without risk of disappointment: for almost all families, this Colorado dude ranch will tick all the boxes.

What makes The Home Ranch perfect? Three factors: the variety of included outdoor activities offered in addition to the riding program, the level of service and culinary standards (The Home Ranch holds membership in the prestigious Relais & Chateaux hotel association), and the friendliness and flexibility of the staff, from the dining team to the barn director.

Lodging options at The Home Ranch:

Founded in 1978 by the Stranahan family, The Home Ranch sits on 4,000 acres along the Elk River, in the shadow of the Zirkel Wilderness and the Sawtooth Mountains. The cozily sprawling main lodge houses six guest rooms, several of which have lofts to accommodate kids in a suite-style layout, plus communal ‘living room’ space with a river rock fireplace and tucked away sunroom, a dining room and no-host bar, and front and back decks with lots of lounging options. Out front sits the children’s recreation building, outdoor pool and hot tub, and within easy walking distance amid the aspen trees, eight cabins accommodate from four to eight guests each.

Each of the cabins and the guest rooms in the lodge include in-room WiFi, a small fridge stocked with some sparkling water and snacks, pantry snacks such as granola bars and homemade cookies, and a Keurig coffee maker (in the lodge, we just stepped downstairs in our provided robes to use the Keurig at the wet bar adjacent to the living room). The Home Ranch does not use keys, but you can lock yourself into your room with a deadbolt, and a safe is available in each room and cabin. You also get a hair dryer and makeup mirror, humidifier, and the aforementioned bathrobes. Cabins have fireplaces or wood-burning stoves. We were very comfortable in our lodge room…the only thing I missed was a patio or balcony, so I could enjoy a beverage in the morning or evening while looking out over the beautiful Alpine valley views.

A typical day at The Home Ranch looks a little like this:

Breakfast is served in the lodge dining room from 7:30 am until 9 am, with continental offerings and coffee and tea set out earlier. At breakfast, which is made to order (just about anything you could ask for), with two featured specials per day, head wrangler Michael makes the rounds, taking ‘orders’ for the day’s activities. Morning rides depart from the barn around 9:30 and 10 am, and in addition to kids’ rides led by specialized children’s counselors and adult rides split into ability groups, families can ask for individual family rides as well.

Lunch is served on the front deck, and always included sandwich makings, a variety of salads and veggies, two soup options, and something on the grill every day. Around 2 pm, an afternoon ride is offered for all groups, or families can opt for pool time. During both the morning and afternoon rides, staff members from the hiking and fishing huts offer fly fishing clinics and trips, guided hikes, guided mountain biking on state-of-the-art suspension mountain bikes, and nature walks. Most days, we opted for a morning ride followed by an afternoon playing in the mountains in another capacity.

After the afternoon rides and activities, kids are kept busy with the children’s counselors while parents freshen up or enjoy a dip in the pool, and children’s dinner is served on the deck around 6:30 pm, with adult dinner in the dining room around 7 pm. The kids continue to be looked after until 9 pm.

While this is the general schedule, every day holds a different surprise, such as a brunch ride one day (riding horses to an 11 am brunch), an ‘all day ride’ offered several times during the week (a few hours in the saddle followed by lunch at a remote location and a few hours back), and evening activities that include wine pairing dinners, cookouts, and barn dances.

Highlight: kids are supervised with their own programming with their own dedicated counselors during the morning ride, after lunch, during the afternoon ride/activity time, between activities and dinner, during dinner, and after dinner. That’s a lot of supervision! Of course, you can always take your kids out of the children’s program for any family time. However, kids are not allowed at grown-up dinner.

Dining at The Home Ranch:

When you drive up to the ranch on arrival, the first thing you notice might not be the barn and horses. It might be a greenhouse and gardens. That’s because The Home Ranch hires a horticulture team headed by Home Ranch team member Allison to provide some of the food for the ranch kitchen; in fact, I was told 80% of their salad greens and veggies are homegrown…not an easy feat at elevation in Colorado. Chickens and livestock are also raised on-site for local, sustainable meat and eggs. There are even beehives.

Executive chef Jonathon Gillespie is highly creative (we affectionately called him the mad scientist chef) and our meals were extremely fresh, inventive and delightful every night. All meals utilize the fresh food available, with a whole food-bent. All diets can be accommodated. You will never go hungry; Pastry Chef Douglas Short’s pastries and freshly baked breads were my personal downfall.

The honor bar in the lodge is fully stocked with a good variety of wines, local beers, liquors, and all the mixers you might need. Just go in and help yourself, writing down any selections on the provided tickets organized by cabin or room name. Not realizing The Home Ranch would have such a fully stocked bar, we brought a fair amount of our own booze, and if we had had a balcony in our lodge room, we might have made our own drinks to enjoy there (guest-brought alcohol is permitted, but only in rooms and cabins). However, we quickly realized we didn’t need to. Wine, cocktails and beer can be ordered at dinner as well. Each dinner menu offered two featured wine suggestions, but everything in the bar is available during meals as well.

Included activities at The Home Ranch:

In addition to the elevated cuisine and service, the amount of included activities at The Home Ranch is what sets it apart for me from the others we visited. We tried out just about everything, and the only things we encountered with an extra charge included alcohol (both from the bar and at dinner), items bought in the gift shop, and on-site massages. Of course, you can add more to this list if you ask the ranch to arrange off-site activities, such as clay pigeon shooting, river rafting, hot air balloon rides, or gravity-based (lift-served) mountain biking at Steamboat. However, all on-site activities were included.

Horse program:

The horse program at The Home Ranch offers the best first-day orientation we’ve encountered so far at a dude ranch. The wranglers take the time to explain not just what to do on the horses, but why, and extensive (but not too lengthy) instruction is given in the arena before riders hit the trails. Each guest who wants to ride horseback is paired with a horse of their own for the week, which is very nice for consistency. Wranglers divide up rides into small groups based on ability levels and desires (grouping all riders who want to trot and lope together, for instance, and all riders who want to only walk together). Every wrangler we rode with was excellent, and I never rode the same trail twice. The topography varies between high mountain meadows, woods, and ridges, with plenty of interesting moments as horses picked their way carefully down steep grades or loped along fence lines (as desired by the group of riders).

I never grew tired of riding. As noted above, all-day rides are offered several times during the week, as well as a ‘Ride Fish Ride’ offering, which combines the two sports. One day during the week, wranglers invite guests to help them bring in the cattle from a distant pasture, and the week often culminates in a ‘rodeo’ of horse and cattle games in the arena.

Hiking, biking, and fishing:

Next to the recreation building in front of the lodge sits the hiking hut and the fishing hut. Visit either (or just talk to Michael at meals) to arrange hiking, mountain biking, or fishing. Daily organized hikes were led during our visit by guide Gage, whose repertoire of hikes include trails on the North Fork, Hinman Lake and Overlook, Home Mountain, Burr Ridge, Hahn’s Peak, Three Island, and Zirkel Circle. He can also bring in additional guides for specific routes or needs. Gage also led the mountain biking, which included single track and dirt road biking on The Home Ranch’s off-site (but close by) property, called Murphy-Larson. He also leads additional rides into the national forest land adjacent the ranch, when permitted.

The Home Ranch is an Orvis-endorsed fly fishing lodge, which means that when you visit the fishing hut, the friendly fishing guide staff can outfit you with Orvis gear and offers a fly fishing clinic on the lawn and in the stocked pond on ranch property. We caught two fish in the pond, then one member of our group fished the Elk for two afternoons, catching multiple trout (catch and release). Three miles of the Elk flows right through the property.

Don’t overlook the hiking, biking, and fishing opportunities at the ranch. While horseback riding is often the main draw, some guests spend their entire time fishing or hiking, and we can see why!

Check week-long rates for The Home Ranch here. During the early season and late season, sometimes four-night stays can be accommodated if needed, but we recommend the full week-long program. You won’t want to go home earlier!

Disclosure: We checked out The Home Ranch at the invitation of the ranch, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain my own.

Estes Park with kids: What to do in downtown Estes Park

September 27, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

While you’re in Estes Park with kids enjoying the mountains, be sure to carve out some time to explore the downtown area of this fabulous destination.

Fun City:

I would be remiss if I didn’t start with Estes Park’s ultimate kid-friendly attraction; it was the place my kids remembered best from our first trip, and the place they most wanted to return to. With burlap sack and 3-story twisty slides, miniature golf, go-karts, bumper boats, and more, this is a place you won’t want to miss. And trust me, you couldn’t miss it, even if you wanted to. It’s right next to the highway on the way to Bear Lake. Pricing is per attraction, and you load a swipe card in advance. Take advantage of the value cards—$57 worth of rides for $50, or $120 for $100.

Feeding the Family:

For low-fuss, fast-service food, try Bob & Tony’s Pizza (124 W. Elkhorn). The pizza is decent and the atmosphere is fabulous, with walls of signed bricks and an arcade with pool, air hockey, foosball and racing games at the back. You order and pick up at the counter, so it’s very low-fuss and family-friendly.

If you’re more in the mood for burgers, go for Penelope’s World Famous Burgers, which really are pretty scrumptious, though you’ll pay more for the quality. It’s a fun, old-fashioned place with small tables and a modern version of a jukebox. (229 W. Elkhorn)

Sugar Rush:

What downtown tourist area would be complete without a slew of sweet shops? The Danish Cone factory makes waffle cones on site; several others offer big, soft cookies and candy-making. There’s also a taffy shop, and don’t forget the old-fashioned candy store, which sells bulk candy by the piece or by the pound, including some you haven’t seen since you were a kid. (Candy cigarettes, anyone?)

Shopping:

Kitschy t-shirts, pens, mugs, wind chimes, blown glass, Disney figurines, bohemian clothes, toys—you name it, you can probably find it in downtown Estes. Naturally, this means Downtown Estes Park gets very busy in the summertime, with foot traffic on the sidewalks competing with the stream of cars headed to the Beaver Meadows entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. There’s lots of free parking, but prepared for slow traffic. Estes Park has a free shuttle; take advantage of it if you can. One thing I liked was the fact that the city has officers directing traffic at the major intersections in the downtown, and every cycle of the lights, they stop vehicle traffic so that pedestrians can cross—diagonally, even!

Free with kids:

Let’s be honest: with kids, ‘free’ is an important consideration.

Pikas in the Park: Keep the kids active and entertained trying to puzzle out the clues that help them complete this downtown scavenger hunt for bronze statues of the tiny mammal known as a pika.
The Riverwalk: Lining the back side of the main shopping drag, you’ll find this lovely pathway, with sculptures, fountains, and places to sit and watch the rushing mountain stream tumble past rounded rocks. You’ll also find a small play structure, too.
Performance Park: Just west of the downtown strip, this lovely amphitheater sits alongside Fall River. During the high season, there are free concerts on Thursday nights here. Bring blankets and lawn chairs.
The Birch Ruins inhabit an outcropping above downtown, with gorgeous views of Lake Estes and both the major corridors into the national Park. The walking trail, accessed from the parking lot behind the police station, takes you through a small nature preserve and then up the hill to the ruins.

Doing ‘grownup stuff’ with kids in tow:

For the most part, even the adult attractions in Estes Park are refreshingly kid-friendly. To wit:

The Slab, a no-frills, good-food outdoor pub which offers lawn games, Bingo, and Jenga as well as live music and adult beverages.
Snowy Peaks Winery, just a stone’s throw from Fun City, which lets kids do juice tastings while their parents taste the more fermented variety. They also have a play room in one corner and a lounge area with tons of board games. If you get rained out, take the family, buy a glass of Colorado wine, and spend a couple of hours together.

What are your “must-do” items in Estes Park?

Estes Park with kids: Hi Country Stables review

September 15, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Rocky Mountain National Park is spectacularly beautiful, but with kids, there can be limits to the distance and elevation you can reasonably expect to cover on foot. Fortunately, there’s another way to get up to the heights: a trail ride with Hi Country Stables.

Hi Country Stables review:

Hi Country Stables, which is part of Estes Park’s Sombrero Stables family, operates two locations inside the national park. We worked with Moraine Park Stable, near the Cub Lake Trailhead. Hi Country offers guided trail rides lasting from two to eight hours. We were given the two-hour option, which was perfect for a family with kids ages 5 to 12. Our route went up over the ridge and down into Beaver Meadows before looping back. It actually took us about 2 hours and 15 minutes, and it was one of the highlights of our entire week in Colorado.

The corral at Hi Country Stables holds several dozen horses, and we were amazed at the number of guides on hand to keep the process running smoothly. With their help, we mounted our horses from a wooden deck alongside the trail. We were told our horse’s name and instructed on how to use the reins, but as the ride progressed, we realized we didn’t have to direct the animals too much; they’re very well trained

The trail ride itself carried us up a narrow, rocky path above the Moraine Park Campground, with a spectacular view of Long’s Peak and the Continental Divide that only got better as we ascended. It took us along rocky, steep mountainsides, beneath the shade of aspen and pine groves, and through grassy meadows. Our guide, Evan, took the opportunity to share interesting information about the park’s trees, plants, and wildlife.

A family friendly outing:

Hi Country Stables does a great job of accommodating families. We had told them in advance that we had a daughter with Down syndrome; although it was an offhand comment, meant to reassure them that she was cleared to ride, they responded by planning around her. They chose a horse specifically for her and put her up front, right behind Evan, who kept hold of her lead rope whenever we were in motion. Evan was infinitely patient with all our kids but especially with Julianna, who can be difficult to understand and loves to talk. The adults were placed in the back so we could keep an eye on the kids at all times.

Our horses were extremely well-behaved, requiring only occasional direction from the rider. In fact, our 8-year-old, who did have to convince his mount he couldn’t stop to nibble on the grass, had more fun than anyone else, because he actually got to interact with his horse more! The child who had the most trouble was our five-year-old, who kept sliding off-center on the saddle because his legs were short.

Preparing for your trail ride:

You’ll definitely want to make arrangements in advance, because like most things in Rocky Mountain National Park, spaces fill quickly. Rides in the national park are scheduled by phone rather than online, and cancellations and schedule changes need to be made at least 24 hours in advance. If you don’t get an answer right away, try again in a few minutes; the office for Hi Country Stables is a short horse trailer hooked up outside the corral in Moraine Park, and although the phone rings there, the manager is often called out to work with customers or receive loads of feed. Without exception, everyone we met at Hi Country Stables was extremely friendly and accommodating.

Trail rides go on even in the rain, and every saddle has a rain poncho hooked to it. Hi Country Stables loans out saddle bags to carry phones, keys, and water bottles. Wear long pants for greatest comfort. Helmets are provided. Sunscreen is a must, as you burn much easier at high elevations. Age restrictions are outlined here.

Photography tips:

I took our DSLR on the ride, but if I were to do it again, I’d stick to the camera phone. Horseback riding is very bouncy and not particularly conducive to fiddling with zoom and settings, and we only stopped for one photo op; otherwise we were in motion.

Locations and pricing:

Sombrero runs stables in Estes Park as well as from Moraine Park and Glacier Creek inside the national park. They also have stables in other popular destinations around the state of Colorado. See the website for all the many interesting options. A two-hour trail ride from the Moraine location costs $60 per person and goes up for longer rides.

Parking is available at Moraine Park, but can get crowded, so be sure to leave plenty of time. You can also get to the stables by riding the national park shuttles.

Our family was offered a complimentary trail ride in exchange for an honest review.

SaveSave

Open Air Adventure Park Estes Park

August 28, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Estes Park, Colorado, is known as the gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park. But mountains aren’t the only outdoor adventures you can find in this small town. Tucked off highway 36 on the way out to the Beaver Meadows entrance of the park is the compact but surprisingly extensive Open Air Adventure Park.

Open Air Adventure Park is a web of 32 aerial obstacles arranged around a central hub. There are two levels; the lower is 10 feet off the ground, the upper 21. What kind of obstacles? A row of chairs. A suspended canoe. A saddle attached to a zipline. A vertical net to pick your way across. A trail of tires, both vertical and horizontal. There’s even a rappel line to get you quickly from the upper level to the lower, or to ground level. Each element is labeled green, blue, or black to indicate difficulty.

Open Air Adventure Park Estes Park review:

Your Open Air Adventure lasts an hour and a half and begins with detailed instruction on the safety equipment. A staff member will check everyone’s harness and understanding of procedures on a ground-level mockup of the safety lines you’ll be using up in the matrix. This takes the first fifteen minutes of your time slot, but once you’re cleared, you climb a ladder to level one and are set loose to explore at will.

My oldest son and I have done three aerial adventures now, and what’s nice about Open Air is the freedom to choose your own adventure. If there’s an element you particularly like, you can return to it as often as the crowd allows. The distance across elements is relatively short, so if you’re new to the sport, you might find it less intimidating than launching yourself over a zipline so long, you can’t even see the other end.

Open Air staff members are stationed in several places on the course to monitor safety and help navigate transitions. And of course, the view of the mountains is incomparable.

Age Limits:

Technically, the minimum age is six, but exceptions can be made if a parent is willing to move around the matrix with a five-year-old. In order to explore independently, a child has to be able to hook their carabiners to lines 6 feet above the platform. I needed to shadow (and shepherd) both my 5 year old and my 8 year old, because neither of them could reach the safety lines.

I recommend that if you have small children and/or children who are new to aerial adventures, keep a one-to-one ratio of adult to child. My younger two turned out to be extremely timid, and we ended up causing quite a backlog of people waiting on us to get moving. We also didn’t get to explore as much as I would have liked, because it took them a long time to overcome their fear. A one-to-one ratio will facilitate a more enjoyable experience for everyone.

Either way, minimum weight for participants is 40 pounds, and maximum is 250.

Preparing for your adventure:

Plan to arrive at least 15 minutes early, and be prepared for anything: an Open Air Adventure goes on rain or shine, stopping only for lightning. Wear sunscreen. Gloves are not required, but they’re a good idea. You’ll also need to sign a waiver for yourself and your children (it can all be done on a single form), which can be completed online ahead of time. The Open Air crew loans out lanyards with clear plastic phone cases attached so they are safe on your person while you’re up in the air.

Reservations and Fees:

Tim, one of the owners, told me Open Air tends to be busiest at opening time and in the evenings, but usually it’s less busy around the noon hour. Reservations are made online, with adventures starting every half hour. Fees are refundable with 24 hour notice

An Open Air adventure costs $35 per person, with a discount for parents who come up to shepherd their younger kids around the matrix. Not sure if you can handle the heights? If you try, but can’t make it off the first platform, Open Air offers a “scared out of my mind!” refund of $25.

Location:

Open Air Adventure Park lies at 490 Prospect Village Dr, Estes Park, CO 80517, just behind Fun City, adjacent to Highway 36 (Moraine Ave.). Parking is available on site.

Disclosure: We visited Open Air at a discounted rate, for the purpose of review. All opinion remains our own.