Death Valley National Park - Pitstops for Kids

Camping in Death Valley National Park: Furnace Creek Campground review

March 25, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

We love Death Valley National Park’s Furnace Creek Ranch, but as room rates for this family-friendly Death Valley lodging option rise (justifiably…it’s a great place to stay), we’ve been exploring camping in Death Valley. Here’s what we discovered about fantastic Furnace Creek Campground!

Families have their pick of several Death Valley campgrounds, including Stovepipe Wells campground, and all fill up fast in the primary season from February through May. Families with RVs or trailers may do fine at one of the more exposed first-come, first-served campgrounds, but for tent camping in Death Valley, Furnace Creek Campground is the clear choice.

Families can reserve a site at Furnace Creek Campground up to six months in advance, and I highly recommend doing so. The campground is comprised of both hook-up rv sites and tent-only sites, with the tent sites sectioned off in their own walk-in loop. (There are also a few drive-in tent-only sites, but they are directly adjacent to RV spots.)

The walk-in loop includes sites 115-150, and offers the full range of site quality: from fully-exposed and completely non-private to shaded and reasonably secluded. After spending four nights tent camping in Furnace Creek Campground, we recommend sites 133, 134, and 130 as prime location, with 121, 120, and 119 coming in a close second. These sites offer the most shade and comfort. It’s important to note that while these tent sites are labeled as ‘walk in’, the distance is only a matter of feet from the sites to the parking area. It’s also worth noting that sites are organized three deep: if you’re in 134, for instance, you’ll walk through the camp of 131 and 133 before arriving at your site. We disliked this structure, but it’s the nature of the beast: the desert terrain is wide and open. A walkway would be welcome, however.

In our site of 133, we had three alcoves shaded by mesquite trees for smaller tents, space for a large tent, and room to hang two hammocks. While we wished for more space from our neighbors, everyone camping during busy spring break in this section of the campground was respectful and fairly quiet, as patrons of tent-only sections of national park campgrounds tend to be.

Amenities you need to know about:

Every loop at Furnace Creek Campground has restroom facilities with flush toilets, sinks, and water stations for filling drinking water containers, doing dishes, and the like. There are no showers. Every site has a fire pit with grate, and firewood can be bought at the Furnace Creek Ranch store. Garbage bins are located at the end of the tent-only loop, as well as camp stove fuel recycling bins.

Want more camping info? Get Pit Stops for Kids’ camping gear list!

The Furnace Creek Visitor Center is located adjacent to the campground, and offers an amphitheater, evening campfire programs, the Junior Ranger program, and a nice video overview of the park. This is definitely worth being your first stop.

Bonus! Using Furnace Creek Ranch facilities:

The campground is a five to ten minute walk from Furnace Creek Ranch, which houses motel-style rooms, a few restaurants, a general store, gas station, and a park-like setting with tennis courts, lawn games, a basketball sport court, and spring-fed swimming pool. Can campground guests use these facilities? Yes, but read on for details:

Obviously, the store and restaurants are open to all (more on that below), and while technically the tennis and other sport facilities are designated for ranch guests, there’s nothing to stop campground guests from enjoying them with their own sport equipment.

To use the Furnace Creek Ranch pool (which you definitely will want to do), campground guests need to buy day passes from the Registration building. Passes are on a first-come, first-served basis, so it’s worth stopping in during the morning before heading out to hike or otherwise explore the park. Use the pass in the afternoon. The pool house also houses showers, so take advantage of that amenity as well.

Tip: Don’t forget about gear! Everyone in your family will need quality hiking socks, and you can get additional camping and hiking gear information in our travel gear section!

Dining:

Obviously, campers will be cooking most meals in camp, but a dinner or breakfast out at Furnace Creek Ranch can be a welcome treat. Expect higher prices at the 49er Cafe (and even higher at the buffet restaurant next door), but you’re paying for the convenience of skipping dish washing, right? Fare ranges from burgers to pasta and steak dishes, and breakfasts are typical: omelets, griddle favorites, etc. There is no kids’ menu at breakfast, so consider ordering for young children a la carte. Grab dessert from the store next door: they have a soft-serve station we enjoy. You can also grab perishables here, such as milk, ice, and cold drinks.

Distance from the interstate:

Furnace Creek Campground is on Highway 190, about 30 minutes from Beatty (Highway 95).

Rates:

Tent-only sites were $16/night at the time of our visit. (Room rates at Furnace Creek Ranch were approximately $225.)

Directions:

From Highway 95 at Beatty, follow signs to Death Valley National Park (along Highway 190).

Death Valley National Park with kids: top hikes for active kids

March 21, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

We love exploring Death Valley National Park with kids! And no, you won’t swelter in the heat if you follow our tips! After our fourth visit with kids (stay at either Furnace Creek Ranch or Furnace Creek Campground), we’ve narrowed down our list of favorite Death Valley hikes to our top three. These hikes–detailed below–are best for active, school-aged kids who love exploring, climbing, scrambling, and otherwise giving their parents heart attacks.

Tip: For younger kids, we recommend attempting the same hikes, but adjusting expectations of hike length.

Golden Canyon to Zabriskie Point and Glower Gulch:

The hike up Golden Canyon to the lookout area at Zabriskie Point is 2.5 miles one-way, but multiple alternative routes exist to make it either shorter or longer. If you have two cars, the shortest route is to park one on each end and do the hike one-way. To extend the hike, travel the 2.5 to Zabriskie, then backtrack one mile to the Glower Gutch turn-off, which returns you to the parking area via a different canyon. The Glower Gutch section takes families along a dry wash and then into a very narrow canyon with plenty of scrambling down a dry waterfall. The last 1/2 mile is exposed as you hike along the Alluvial Fan of the mountainside back to the car. The trailhead starts on Hwy 190 just past Furnace Creek Inn.

What active kids love: the Golden Canyon section of the hike comprises of the first mile or so, and offers lots of exploring up side chutes of the canyon. Kids can scramble nearly to the top of the canyon along these routes. Further up, the trail skirts Manly Peak then offers alternative trails along the ridges of smaller fans (parents can see kids from the main trail). When it gets steep, it’s time to return to the main trail up to Zabriskie. At the beginning of the Glower Gutch section, kids should keep an eye out for a man-made stone wall. Around the back of it exists the entrance of a deep mine tunnel (barred now, to keep humans out and allow access for bats).

Mosaic Canyon:

Mosaic Canyon is one of the most beautiful canyons in the park, with challenging scrambling at the beginning before opening up to a deep wash. The first half of the hike is shaded in the canyon, but the second half is definitely exposed. The hike is just a few miles each way, but you’ll want to stop often to let kids explore.

What active kids love: Rock scrambling and climbing abounds in Mosaic Canyon. Numerous side trails take hikers to narrow ridges (careful!) and the beginning of the hike offers challenging climbing for those who seek it. (Otherwise, it’s fairly easy to manage on the main trail.) In the wash, the side trail to the right (as you go up) offers a thrilling walk along the edge of a fairly steep side canyon.

Titus Canyon and Falls Canyon:

Titus Canyon is often driven (26 miles or so from the one-way entrance), but can also be hiked from the ‘exit’ side. The trailhead is located en route to Scotty’s Castle and Ubehebe Crater (also great stops), and families can go as far or short a distance as desired. The steep canyon walls are fun to play on, though be aware that cars can drive past. (They are easy to hear coming, however.) For an alternative without cars, try Falls Canyon, accessible from the same trailhead. Backpackers enjoy this canyon, but it will largely be empty. Either is a one-way route for most families.

What active kids love: The rock climbing possibilities are more like scrambling here, with kids able to reach impressive heights without much effort. Just be sure young kids don’t get so high that they’re afraid to get down! Geodes can be found in this canyon as well.

Tip: For a non-hike that feels like a hike and looks like a hike (but doesn’t involve a set trail), take kids to Mesquite Sand Dunes near Indian Wells. The trek from the parking lot to the highest dune is 2 miles, but kids can pick their own path (and go up and roll down as many dunes as they’d like in the space between). Bring plenty of water and a hat for shade, as this ‘hike’ is 100% exposed.

For all Death Valley hikes:
Plan to hike early in the day, exiting most trails by lunchtime. Wear sun protective clothing and hats, and insist on everyone carrying water.

Bonus pit stop!

A trip to Rhyolite Ghost Town on the edge of the national park is well-worth a stop on the way in (near Beatty). Kids can explore ruins at-will for the most part, and there’s a short walk to a mine tunnel on the hill outside the ‘town’. Kids can also check out a jail cell and a brothel (whether you explain that last one is up to you!). There are no services here expect toilets, but it’s a nice place to picnic. Beware of rattlesnakes!

Tip: Wondering where to stay in Death Valley National Park? Read our reviews for Furnace Creek Ranch and Furnace Creek Campground.

Where to stay in Death Valley: Furnace Creek Ranch California

April 5, 2014 By Amy Hagstrom

In stunning and desolate Death Valley, CA, The Furnace Creek Ranch is THE place to stay with kids. This place has everything, from lawn games to a spring-fed outdoor pool and dining options, and is in the best location for exploring this vast park. Read on for a full review of Furnace Creek Ranch.

Much more than just your average motel, The Furnace Creek Ranch is a desert oasis centrally located on the eastern side of Death Valley National Park. Recent improvements to Furnace Creek Ranch include an updated pool patio area with new chairs, tables, and gardens, a new sport court for basketball and volleyball, bocce ball and shuffleboard areas, and free sport recreation rentals.

Would you rather camp? We have tips and reviews for Death Valley camping at Furnace Creek!

Why it’s worth the drive:

Located 2.5 hours from Las Vegas, Death Valley is a considerable distance from most other sightseeing venues in southern Nevada, but the moment you drive over the mountains to the vast valley floor, you’ll understand why it’s recommended time and again. Even very young children can handle the moderate hikes through stunning canyons and/or ride in an all-terrain jeep through bumpy washes and across cracked desert floors. While this national park can be done in a day trip, it’s a vast area to cover, with lots of driving time. Our family highly recommends at least a two-night stay to see all the valley has to offer.

Why we Recommend Staying at the Ranch:

Death Valley NP offers several accommodations within its borders, ranging from the 5-star Inn at Furnace Creek to campgrounds. We always choose the ranch at Death Valley–Furnace Creek Ranch–for its welcoming atmosphere and accommodation of families with young children. The Ranch consists of an entire complex of motel units (the deluxe rooms, which open out directly onto the green across from the pool are worth the extra $$), restaurants, playgrounds, stables, swimming pool and more. There’s a general store (convenient when we needed Tylenol, ice for the cooler, and after-dinner ice creams) bike-rental booth, and museum. The 80-degree spring fed pool is the highlight. Plus, you can walk to the park service visitor center from the grounds.

Nate and Calvin get sworn in as new rangers at Death Valley National Park.

What to see: Death Valley offers desert hikes, off-road excusions, horseback riding, and tours. Check out our family’s top Death Valley hiking picks.

Accommodations: Options at the Ranch include cabins (one room), standard rooms, deluxe rooms (ideal location), and RV or tent camping (does not include pool pass). Bear in mind that the best rates are on the shoulder seasons, which in the case of Death Valley are early fall and late spring. Our favorite time to visit? Spring break!

Food Services: Several restaurants are available onsite. Our favorite was the family diner, ’49er Cafe, serving general family fare like burgers, pasta, and kid meals. The Wrangler Steakhouse is spendier, but does have an extensive breakfast buffet.

In addition to the restaurants, the Ranch General Store is well-stocked with items to make your own picnics and light breakfasts, like milk, cereal, bread, lunchmeats, etc. Be prepared to pay dearly for this convenience, however! (We stock up on groceries before entering the park.)

Directions: From Las Vegas: take I-15 N, then take exit 42A to merge onto US-95 N toward Reno. Turn left at NV-373 S. Continue onto CA-127 S, entering CA. Turn right at CA-190 W into the park.

Hidden

February 11, 2011 By Amy Hagstrom

(Inspired by our travels to Death Valley National Park.)

The first thing anyone notices (or at least the first thing I always notice) about Death Valley is its unapologetic inhospitality. You drive over the rise of the highway from Beatty, Nevada and a vast, cracked valley of barren land stretches out before you, and you cannot help but think of empty hands extended. Of cupped palms dry of water. Of stark denial.

If you’ve read up on the valley, you next think of the doomed Manley wagon train who gave the valley its name in 1849, and you can imagine the depth of their despair at this first glimpse of everything they did not want to find.

But then you look again.

And as you explore the park, you find creases in the cracked land. You find hot springs, and sand dunes, and washes twisting up canyon walls. You stand looking out over the desolate valley, and suddenly, you can see the way the sun sets the Paramint Mountains to shades of amber, then rose. You notice the ribbons of color in the boulders framing your hikes. You listen to the silence.

These gifts of the park are subtle, and–I won’t lie–subtle isn’t usually my ‘thing’. But I think that’s why I like Death Valley so much (well, that and the weather). It isn’t like Yosemite, with its Half Dome that universally impresses. It’s not like Yellowstone, with its gushing parlor games. There’s not one feature of the huge park (biggest in size in the continental U.S.) which I can honestly say draws a consistent ‘wow’. To appreciate Death Valley, you have to be observant. You have to be still. You have to look closely.

Last spring, we began our first full day in the national park hiking up Golden Canyon and continuing on past Manley Peak to Zabriskie Point. The three mile trek includes some pretty arduous climbs, but the first mile is a gentle affair twisting up a washed out road through the canyon. It’s shaded, and pretty, and if you time your hike right, the morning sun casts the canyon walls to striking shades of gold (hence its name).

Every few yards, a cracked chasm in the rock framing the road leads up the canyon side, and the boys followed each of these paths like dogs on a scent, zig-zagging their way up the wash. Some chasms they could walk into, but others required some scrambling as they climbed up, pulling themselves into the crevice by their arms. Then they could follow its winding path (formed in the soft rock bed by infrequent flash floods) up and up and up, until one of us called them back. They looked like little ants traversing an ant farm.

Higher up, the trail got tough, and the sun blazed down, and Toby struggled with the terrain. I walked with him steadily, holding his hand, until we were directly under the huge rock fortress that is Manley Peak. For a brief moment as we were passing under, its shadow fell over us, and he stopped, staring up. Even he knew that for anything at all to block out the sun in Death Valley–even a massive stone ediface–is rare.

Over the top, there were more hills, up and down and up and down through the rippling borax and salt deposits that make up the land here. I transferred Toby to Charlie’s shoulders. The sun was back in full force.

The morning lengthened. Toby found a lizard and stopped to study it for ten minutes. Nate found the entrance to an old opal mine, intrigued as only a ten-year-old boy (and his thirty-something father and uncle) could be by the extensive danger signs planted all around it.

Zabriskie Point was hot and windy, but the view was spectacular. We could see all the way to the Badlands to the left and kne that our home for the week–Furnace Creek Ranch–lay somewhere straight out ahead. The sky was a rich blue above us.

“Awesome,” someone said, and then we all stared out over the desert anew, and I was so, so grateful that my family and I, mountain and tree lovers from the pacific northwest, could take this in, uncover all there is on offer, and adjust our definition of beauty to include it.

(Then we tried to take a family photo, and mostly failed, but that happens no matter where you go.)