Four day trips from Rome (with or without a car)

We’re in the midst of organizing our first family European trip, which is great fun. After all, your trip starts the minute you begin planning it! I’ve always loved Rome, so I know the Colosseum, Vatican, and lesser-known stops like the Mercato Testaccio will be on the itinerary. However, I also know my favorite way  of experiencing the Eternal City (which consisted of multiple days of city touring and lots of pizza and wine) will need adjusting. This time around, we’ll eat just as much pizza, but will also head outside the city to see more of the Roman and Tuscan countryside.  Below, read our top four Roman day trip picks, and how to get to them.

tivoli-italy

Sabine Hills (Sabina):

For a good dose of walled cities, medieval architecture, and quintessentially Italian rolling hillsides, head to Sabina. Olive trees dot the countryside, as do monasteries and Renaissance palaces. I’ve toured an olive oil production here, but I know my kids would rather poke around in the ancient walled villages of Toffia or Farfa, or hike along the worn trails of Monti Lucretili National Park.

Start in Fara Sabina, either by train or car. A direct train departs every 15 minutes from stations in Rome to Fara Sabina-Montelibretti Station. This will take about 45 minutes, and then families will need to transfer to bus to tour other villages. If you rent a car in Italy, you’ll have more freedom to explore. Take the Rome-Florence (A1) motorway to Fiano Romano exit, then follow signs to Rieti and Fara Sabina.

Appia Antica (Old Appian Way):

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One of my favorite sights in Italy, and located just outside the city limits of Rome, Old Appian Way is an ancient, narrow road leading to the catacombs of the Eternal City. A visit outside the walls of Rome is really valuable for kids: they can visually learn exactly how the gates would open and shut, and see where the dead were once buried. Is it creepy? Sure! But not as much as I thought it would be. Definitely take a catacombs tour (most are lead on the hour in Italian and English, with other languages getting a few per day), then plan to stay for the afternoon picnicking in the pretty countryside along the road.

No need for a car for this day trip. Take bus 218 from San Giovanni Metro stop. Start with the biggest and most extensive catacombs, St. Callixtus. Families can see the crypt of nine popes here, and excellent examples of early Christian art. Buy tour tickets at the entrance. From here, it’s possible to walk along the road, but it’s very narrow (and walled), so when we go as a family, I plan to take the bus from stop to stop along Old Appian Way.

Tivoli:

To show kids what Renaissance villas really looked like, a day trip to Tivoli is a must. Only about 35 km from Rome, Tivoli is home to both Villa d’Este, located in the Piazza Trento, and Hadrian’s Villa. It’s easy to tour both via the bus system that connects them. Villas d’Este’s gardens utilize an innovative water irrigation system parents can point out to kids; there are 500 fountains alone. Families can take a tour through Viator, or visit on their own.

If you’re driving, it’s an easy commute from Rome via the S5 to Tivoli. There’s train service from Rome’s Tiburtina station as well.

Florence:

Yes, families can get to Florence and the greater Tuscany region as a day trip from Rome, though it will certainly take all day. Spend time perusing Italy’s finest collection of Renaissance art at Galleria degli Uffizi, but definitely buy tickets online in advance. Then give kids a break from museums and architecture by spending time at the Ponte Vecchio, Florence’s first bridge, and Campanile, the bell tower in Piazza del Duomo.

The fastest (but most expensive) way to get to Florence from Rome is on the fast train, then walking to the historic center, but we plan to drive a rental car, which is three hours up the A1.

This post was done in partnership with Enterprise Rent-a-Car but they had no input on the content. All opinions are my own.

Photo credit: Jean-Pierre DalbéraLarry.

Rome

Scotland barge cruise tips: Seeing Scotland by waterway

Scotland barge river cruises are gaining in popularity by the minute, and it’s easy to understand why: these itineraries allow for all-inclusive convenience and luxury without sacrificing the intimate look at local scenery and culture lost when booking a larger ocean cruise.

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Scotland barge cruise tips:

Scotland, with its canals and locks, is an especially ideal country to explore by waterway. A Scotland barge cruise should hit a varied mixture of must-sees, including plenty of lochs, castles and ruins, quaint villages, and countryside sporting that unique blend between domestic and ruggedly wild only Scotland can quite pull off. Adult and solo travelers have plenty of outfitters to choose from,

Pick an itinerary that travels the Caledonian Canal

Most barge cruise operators float this canal, which runs between Banavie in the south to Inverness in the north. The Caledonian is actually a series of smaller canals connecting four natural lakes: Loch Lachy, Loch Oich, Loch Dochfour and Loch Ness. Along the way, cruises float directly past multiple castles, battlefields, and lochs, including Urquhart Castle and the infamous Loch Ness. Highlights include Neptune’s Staircase at Corpath, a stop for all barges, and Cawdor Castle, home of Shakespeare’s Macbeth.

urquhart-castle

Expect luxury

All small ship cruises are on the higher end of the vacation pricing scale, but Scotland barge cruises are especially expensive (and luxurious). Because of the narrow size of the canals in Scotland, barges must be smaller than even industry standard for small ship cruises, with passenger lists as small as six and large as 15. The smaller, more intimate the cruise, the more luxurious you can expect it to be. For the best value, consider European Waterways or Cruising Holidays. On the higher end of the scale, go all out with A&K or  Hebridean.

Cruising with kids

Scotland barge cruises make for incredibly kid-friendly vacations by their very definition: this type of European holiday is all about exploration, activity, and new sights and sounds daily. Parents can leave the itinerary planning and meal preparations up to the cruise operator, a godsend when on the go in a foreign country with kids. All this said, while looking to book a barge cruise, be prepared to book the entire barge for your family alone, should you be bringing school-aged kids. Due to the small size of barges, this is a requirement of every cruising company I’ve found (and was a requirement when our family cruised). At first, the idea of booking an ‘entire barge’ for a single family seemed over the top, until I realized that with even a family of 8-10, you’d be booking your own barge anyway. Invite the grandparents and cousins, and you’re set.

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Barge cruise add-ons

Once on the canal, your itinerary will be set. Most barge cruises stop for the majority of a day at major sites along the way, giving visitors plenty of time at lochs and villages. Look for a barge operator that stows cruiser bikes onboard; you’ll want these to explore village streets and cycle paths. For almost all stops, it will be easy to navigate the area on foot or bike, but after arrival at Inverness, plan to stay a few extra days at this gateway to the Scottish Highlands. Rent a car, and spend 2-3 days exploring the greater region. See more of the Urquhart area, including 4,000-year-old Corrimony Chambered Cairn, in Glen Urquhart, and take a Loch Ness Monster tour. See Plodda Falls, six miles from Cannich Village, and the Culloden battlefield, the final battle of the Jacobite Rising of 1745. All these sites are a short drive from Inverness.

This post is written in partnership with Enterprise. All opinions are my own.

Photo credit: Dave Conner and Lacegna, Flickr

Road Trip Through Spain: Madrid to Barcelona

Ask GoogleMaps how to get from Madrid to Barcelona, and you’ll be taken in a direct shot along the E-90. But take the road less traveled on a road trip from Madrid to Barcelona, and you’ll be rewarded with fewer tourists and a more authentic local scene. Starting in Madrid, take the E-901 from Madrid through Cuenca and Aragon before meeting up again with the E-90 or A-2 into the seaside city of Barcelona.

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Rent a car in Madrid, then set out from the city by mid-morning. You’ll want to budget at least an overnight for this road trip, but you could certainly stretch it to two nights if you really want to linger.

Cuenca:

The medieval town of Cuenca is less than two hours from Madrid, on E-901. Cuenca’s famous ‘hanging houses’ are located here; the walled town is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Built by the Moors, Cuenca has Spain’s first Gothic cathedral, thanks to the Castilians who conquered the city in the 12th century. With kids, stop at the Parque Natural de la Serrania de Cuenca, where everyone can get out of the car for some hiking in this beautiful and visually interesting countryside. The narrow roads are steep in some parts of the park, but this just adds to the thrill for kids.

hanging-houses

Before driving on, see the Casas Colgadas for a lesson in unique architecture; these houses seem to hover over the cliffs, with layers of balconies and gables. You can see them best from the old town, past the Puente de San Paulo footbridge.

Teruel:

Continuing on from Cuenca, head toward Teruel on the N-320 (connecting to the N-420). This section of the drive is about two hours and 45 minutes, but I recommend continuing on to Aragon for an overnight stop. Stop in Teruel for a break, however, taking in the gorges rising up from the Rio Turia in this industrial city. During this part of the drive, you’ll enter the mountain valleys and vineyards of the Aragon region. The villages tucked away between earth-colored hills are ancient, and look sunk into their surroundings. When I went through, I had to remind myself I was still in modern-day Spain.

Aragon:

Approximately six hours’ drive time from Madrid (but more like eight hours after a few stops en route), you’ll arrive in Aragon. Stay the night, then get up with the sun so you have time to explore this city before getting back on the road. Start with the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, the baroque cathedral where Catholic believers say Santiago saw the Virgin Mary. It opens at 7 am, so this makes for a nice pre-breakfast sight if you have early risers.

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About 30 minutes drive away, in Zaragoza, is the Museo Pablo Gargallo, as well as rafting trips and float trips down the Ebro River. Spending most the day in the area to combine a bit of culture with some outdoor adventure is a great way to go; head out toward Barcelona in the mid-afternoon.

The remaining drive is just over three hours. Arrive in Barcelona as the sun is setting!

This post was written in partnership with Enterprise rental cars. Itinerary is my own.

Photo credit: Felipe GabaldónAndrew GouldJorge Correa

Exploring the Cotswolds with kids

Want to add a dash of English country charm to your UK vacation? The Cotswolds are located within a day trip from London, but deserve a 2-3 day itinerary all their own. Unlike many European destinations which are ideal for public transit, the Cotswolds are best explored by car. This way, families can plan their own itinerary, take their time, lingering where desired, and go off the beaten path.

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Pick up a rental car in London, and head to any of the following towns and villages that make up the Cotswolds, or venture just a bit off-course to include history-rich towns such as Stratford-Upon-Avon. Get ready to be charmed: these villages boast more than just pretty names.

Bourton-on-the-water:

When I first visited the Cotswolds as a girl, my favorite town was–and remains–Bourton-on-the-Water. With the River Windrush flowing through the village (navigated by stone footpaths) and ducks making the town center home, I was charmed even at age 12. I also loved the Model Village (yes, of the village), which is located in the gardens of the Old New Inn. What to do with kids: check out the model village and try the Butterfly Maze (both on Rissington Road).

Gloucester:

Gloucester is a very historic city (largest in the area) with a cathedral, cemeteries, and historic walking trails. Plan to spend at least a full day or overnight in Gloucester, and don’t be dissuaded by the few chain shops and restaurants you’ll find here. Gloucester is modernized, but not without its due share of Cotswolds charm. What to do with kids: head to Beatrix Potter’s House of the Tailor of Gloucester. See the inspiration for her beloved tales, and then check out the Folk Museum. If you have soccer fans in your midst, take in a game.

cotwolds-with-kids

Stroud:

Known for its festivals and shops, Stroud leaves commercialization behind and embraces tourists with local culture and custom. The Stroud is the perfect place for walking (don’t tell the kids they’re hiking, and they’ll never notice). Trails bypass stone walls and pasture land, and offer ample opportunity for kids to stop and play, climb low trees, and spot wildlife. What to do with kids: take the family to Stroud’s award-winning farmer’s market or just hit the shops. What might be a chore at home (shopping, ick!) becomes a day of discovery at Stroud.

Berkeley:

Berkeley is home to Berkeley Castle, a 12th century castle with a dark history. It’s been home to 24 generations of the Berkeley family, and presides over the town, which is worth exploring in its own right. Stop by Dr. Jenner’s house, the pioneer of the smallpox vaccine, and at least stay for the day, exploring the shops and eateries. What to do with kids: let them burn off energy at the Cattle Country Adventure Park, where slides and play areas combine with petting zoos.

Bonus: Stratford-Upon-Avon:

Head north from Gloucester, and you’ll arrive within an hour in Stratford-Upon-Avon, the famous birthplace of William Shakespeare. En route, you’ll pass through Tewkesbury, an excellent medieval town, and once you’ve arrived, you can also tour Anne Hathaway’s home. Older children can see a play at the Royal Shakespearean Club theater, and everyone can walk through the town streets, gaining a feel for Olde England.

Where to stay:

You can’t really go wrong in the Cotswolds. This section of the UK houses a great number of their luxury house hotels (estate homes turned into hotels) and B&Bs shine here. With kids, we recommend house hotels for a slightly less intimate feel, and no matter where you stay, we suggest looking for properties with space for kids to play. One of my favorite Cotswolds memories is of floating paper boats down a creek outside our Stroud hotel.

cotwolds-with-kids

Driving tips in the UK:

All visitors will know to stay on the left side of the road in the UK, but keep the following advice in mind:

  • select a small to mid-sized rental car (parking spaces, roads, and alleys are smaller in the UK than in the US)
  • take things slowly: take extra time to look behind you before moving into traffic, navigating roundabouts, and dealing with highway traffic
  • keep a sense of humor: our family still talks about the time Grandpa stalled out in front of a group of punk rockers by Stonehenge and almost took on several unwelcome hitchhikers.

Enjoy the Cotswolds!

This post was done in partnership with Enterprise Rent-a-Car but they had no input on the content. All opinions are my own.

Photo credit: Flickr/tlarescott and Francisco Antunes

Day trip from Dublin: Driving through the Wicklow Mountains Ireland

Dublin, Ireland is a great city to explore by foot and public transit, but there’s so much beauty and history in the Irish countryside, families will definitely want to head out of the city limits at some point. We took the following day trip from Dublin a few years ago without kids, but due to the relatively short driving distances between stops (at least by Western US standards), this itinerary is ideal with kids, too.

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It’s easy to rent a car for one day from Dublin. In fact, you can book with a company you already know and trust from the US, like Enterprise. We chose to rent (or hire) our car from Dublin Airport for as low as 32 Euros; the key to low fare is to always hire and return the car to and from the same location. We took the express bus from our lodging in Dublin to the airport (always a quick and direct route), rented our car around 7 am from the kiosk in the main arrivals terminal, and returned it around 7 pm. We were back ‘home’ at our Dublin hotel by 9 pm. Here’s where to head:

1. Wicklow Mountains to Enniskerry

Leave Dublin and head south into the Wicklow Mountains towards the village of Enniskerry (about 3o minutes from the city). This will be your first glimpse of Irish country life. Stop for a snack or coffee, or head through to nearby Powerscourt Estate and Gardens, with a waterfall and gardens to walk through.

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2. Sally Gap to Glendalough

From Enniskerry, drive into Wicklow Mountains National Park to Sally Gap, stopping en route for plenty of photos and a short walk or two. The Wicklow Mountains are stark, windswept, and stunning in their simple beauty, and walking through them, it’s very easy to imagine ancient life in Ireland. Stop in Glendalough, one of the most picturesque glens of County Wicklow and home to sixth-century St Kevin’s Monastery. The national park has a visitor center in Glendalough, and families can find nine well-marked walking trails. The walks vary from short half hour hikes to ‘hill walks’ of half a day. Maps of the walks are displayed at the visitor center; all the walks start at the National Park Information Office near the Upper Lake.

3. Glendalough to Kilkenny

From Glenalough, head down to Kilkenny, one of the longer stretches of drive, but still very scenic. Kilkenny is worth the drive: Kilkenny is home to numerous historical buildings and landmarks, including stunning Kilkenny Castle. Take the tour inside, walk the grounds, and then grab food in any of the village pubs. If time allows, a visit to medieval St. Canice’s Cathedral and Round Tower is fascinating, and another great example of period architecture for kids. Consider eating a meal at Blaa Blaa Blaa sandwiches before departing.

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4. Return to Dublin via N7

The entire driving loop will take visitors under four hours, but with stops and meals, plan for at least 12 (a full day).  Take your time: we made several road-side stops on the route back, including to an ancient cemetery, a local pub, and another short hike to a vista. By all means, if time allows, make this a two day trip with a stop overnight in Kilkenny.

Point-by-point Google map to plan your trip:

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This post was done in partnership with Enterprise Rent-a-Car but they had no input on the content. All opinions are my own.

Photo credit: Sean MacEntee / Ivan Walsh