Europe - Pitstops for Kids

Lisbon with kids: What to do and where to stay in Portugal with the family

May 12, 2022 By Amy Hagstrom

Lisbon Portugal is a city of friendly people, colorful cobbled streets, breathtaking overlooks and fresh, delicious cuisine. There’s a castle, a marina, trolley cars and tuk tuks, dining can be casual and affordable and children are welcomed almost everywhere. In other words, Lisbon with kids is a no-brainer. It’s the perfect kid-friendly European city. Here’s how to spend 2-3 days in the City of Seven Hills.

Getting your bearings in Lisbon with kids:

Often compared to San Francisco, California for its hilly city streets, strikingly similar bay bridge and trolley (cable) cars, Lisbon doesn’t seem to have just one central district or downtown. Rather, several neighborhoods make for a good home base, within walking distance of many attractions. From the Chiado neighborhood, the historic Alfama neighborhood or the Bairro Alto neighborhood, you’ll be central to most sights.

Taking a tuk tuk tour through Lisbon’s winding, narrow streets can be a great way to get your bearings and have fun doing it. A good hotel concierge can reserve a tuk tuk tour for your family, or you can simply head to any attraction or square in the city and easily find one for hire. Most tuk tuk drivers act as tour guides, pointing out landmarks along the way, or families can request for tours of particular neighborhoods. Prices seem to be negotiable but for most, you’ll need cash (Euros). Opt for a tuk tuk marked ‘eco’ to reduce your carbon footprint as you tour. (Most can fit up to six people.)

If you’d rather explore on foot, head of one of the city’s many scenic overlooks to get the lay of the land. The easiest way to find one: simply start walking uphill, and look for the wide pedestrian-friendly squares at the tops of the hills. Our favorites overlooked the Castelo de San Jorge (more on that in a minute) at the top of Chiado, and the Tagus River at the top of the Alfamo neighborhood. Expect each overlook to present perfect photo opportunities, and some to have stall-style food vendors and even artisan marketplaces.

What not to miss in Lisbon with kids:

Castelo de São Jorge:

Kids and castles tend to go nicely together. Since your kids will spot this one from most overlooks, they’ll want to go sooner rather than later. And it’s easy to do so: Lisbon’s castle is an archaeological site with the ruins of the former Alcáçova palace on the grounds, and again, you can find great views of Lisbon here. Leave time to play in the gardens too, especially on a hot day…the shade will be welcome.

Elevator de Saint Justa:

Not to be confused with the da Gloria or do Lavra elevators (which are steep trolley car routes), this historic elevator located in the Chiado district at Rossio square is exactly that….a vertical elevator by which to observe the city. The line can get long to buy tickets and enter, so if you don’t feel like waiting, just walk up the stairs to view the elevator from the various sides (it’s an impressive, ornate structure) and then explore the high-end stores and souvenir shops in the immediate vicinity.

Trolley 28 tour:

A trolley is a main form of transportation in Lisbon, and you’ll see trolley tracks criss-crossing most city streets. The trolley system is part of the local metro/public transit system, and multi-day tickets can be purchased for all the busses, trolleys and metro. However, if you just want to try the trolley for fun, you can use Trolley 28 as a hop-on, hop-off tour opportunity. One ticket gets you unlimited on and off privileges during the day. Think of Lisbon’s Trolley 28 like San Francisco’s cable cars…as much an attraction as a means of transport.

Parque das Naçoes:

This ultra-modern site of the 1998 World Exposition is a nice place to relax with kids after city exploration. You’ll find the Oceanario de Lisboa here, as well as plenty of open space for play. If you want another activity, the Telecabine Lisboa (cable car) is located here, which runs above the river at Parque das Nacoes to offer a panorama of the whole Nation’s Park area.

Belém:

Located along the water just west of the city center (about a ten minute or 15 Euro cab or Uber ride), Belém serves as the museum capital of Lisbon. The highlight is the Jerónimos Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an example of Manueline architecture, but if you ask kids, the real highlight is probably Pastêis de Belém, the original seller of Lisbon’s most delicious custard tart treat. The line can look imposing at the shop, but there are both indoor and outdoor seating/ordering counters, and even a long line tends to take less than 15 minutes. Next to the monastery is Lisbon’s museum of archeology, worth a visit in its own right. However, if the line is long to enter the monastery (when we visited during Europe’s spring break period, it stretched hours long), get in the much shorter line at the museum instead. You can buy tickets for just the monastery or combined tickets inside (this line was only 30 minutes). Inside the monastery, you’ll find a few exhibits, but mostly, it’s an opportunity to stroll through the beautiful grounds (well worth doing). At the time of our visit, combined tickets were 12 Euro per adult.

Time Out Market:

Also known as the Mercado da Ribeira, Time Out Market is housed in a beautiful historic building near the water at the edge of the Cais do Sodré neighborhood and Chiado neighborhood. Right behind it, you’ll find the famous Pink Street (which is worth a quick look in the daytime but is somewhat seedy at night…think strip clubs and dive bars). The Time Out Market, however, is one of the city’s main food courts that holds everything from traditional meals to trendy treats and bakeries. Communal tables line the middle, and bottles of wine can be purchased at some stalls to share with the family (or new friends). Kids will find just about any type of food on offer here, from traditional Portuguese cuisine to soups and sandwiches. Pasteis de Nata sells Lisbon’s favorite pastry here, and while it’s not the original shop, we actually found their pastries superior to those in Belém.

Tip: Consider the Lisbon pass if you think you’ll be visiting most attractions in the city, as you’ll save money and gain some transportation options on the metro as well. We found getting around by foot or Uber easiest, but the Lisbon Pass can pay for itself for the ticket entries alone.

Sintra:

If you have time to explore this medieval town outside of the city, go! It was a highlight of the trip for many. From central Lisbon, it’s easy to get to Sintra by train (head to the main train terminal by Rossio), then by Uber or taxi. Plan to spend most of the day here, and it really helps to have a guide (your hotel’s front desk or concierge can arrange this, or you can book ahead of time). The narrow, winding streets are fun to explore, and kids love the crazy caves, grottos and underground walkways located within a large garden, Quinta da Regaleira. Read a full article on Sintra.

Alfama:

This Lisbon neighborhood is the oldest in the city, and worth exploring as a destination in its own right. Start at the Museum de Fado on the waterfront, and take any of the narrow, twisting roads uphill. You’ll discover tucked away shops, cafes and souvenir stores, as well as cathedrals and overlooks. Stop for a cold drink (a pitcher of sangria is always a good idea for the grown-ups) and take your time. You’ll be stopping often to take photos.

Tip: Have time for a date night? Head to Bairro Alto, the hilly Bohemian neighborhood walkable from the Chiado area. The young, hip scene here is decidedly trendy but very accessible. You’ll find any number of wine bars and rooftop bars (we recommend Park Bar, located at the top of a parking garage with excellent patio views) and dining options ranging from street food to upscale restaurants. If you want to listen to fado (traditional Portuguese guitar music), Laia Fado in Bairro Alto requires reservations and will be a late night out (starts around 9 pm and was still going strong when we left at midnight) but has no cover charge (but a minimum 50 Euro order per customer).

Additional fado bars and restaurants with earlier music offerings can be found all over the Alfama; we saw some with 7:30 pm start times. In Chiado, By the Wine offers excellent ambiance and an impressive wine selection (though you won’t be left wanting a most Lisbon wine bars). Nearby, Mesón Andaluz Restaurant and Tapas offers an equally lovely atmosphere for a nice evening out.

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Exploring the Acropolis area of Athens

October 5, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Likely at the top of your must-do list for Athens, the Acropolis isn’t just one stop. Make a day of it by getting a thorough tour of the entire Acropolis area, dedicating your morning to the museum and your afternoon to the outdoor sites. Here’s how to go about your day at the Acropolis area of Athens:

Acropolis Museum:

The Acropolis Museum is where you’ll learn what, exactly, you’re about to see and why it matters. We suggest doing it first, even though the outdoor sites are likely to be cooler in the morning, because of the cruise ship schedule: try to walk around the ruins of the Acropolis in the morning and you’re likely to find yourself in long entry lines.

The museum makes a great first impression: you’ll walk right over impressive ruins, once upon a time a neighborhood of baths, markets and houses under modern-day Athens. They’re now under glass, so you walk right over archeological sites that date back to the fifth century BC. After entering the museum, the first collection in the wide glass-floored gallery displays artifacts from the slopes of the Acropolis. Basically, you’re going to see the things that used to be on the hill, in the Parthenon. In antiquity, the slopes of the Sacred Rock was the transition zone between the city and its most famous sanctuary, where large and small sanctuaries existed alongside private houses. Yes, there were private residences that close to the impressive Acropolis.

Definitely make a stop in the Parthenon Gallery on the third floor for the video presentation about the Parthenon. This will give kids, especially, better background before they ascend the slope.

Acropolis:

Time to see the actual Acropolis! At this UNESCO site, you’ll see arguably the greatest architectural endeavors of Greek Antiquity. A tiny bit of background: in the second half of the fifth century BC, thought and art flourished in Athens, and artists, under the inspired guidance of the sculptor Pheidias and the help of a lot of slaves, no doubt, transformed the rocky hill into a unique monument to the arts. We suggest seeing this sprawling hillside with a guide, but if you go it solo, get an audio guide, at very least. There’s a lot to see, and not too many signs or markers to help you out.

Give yourself at least two hours to ascend the hill, walk around the top to see the structures dedicated to Athena and Nike (among others) from every angle, then back down, stopping to see a few of the lesser buildings.

The Hills of the Muses:

Next, go back to the cobbled pedestrian walkway at the base of the Acropolis and ascend a lesser hill, leading to the Hills of the Muses Philopappos, Pnyx, and Nymphs. This archeological site has over a dozen points of interest, including the old gate to the city and the site of the birth of democracy, where citizens first embraced this style of government (minus, of course women and slaves, who continued to have no rights or voice). Don’t miss the ‘prison of Socrates’, incorrectly named; it was not a prison at all, but rather the hiding place for many Greek antiquities during the second world war. Even under torture, the Greeks did not reveal where they’d hidden the treasures that are now enjoyed by the world in museums.

You’ll also see some of the best views of the Acropolis and the surrounding city from these hills, and there are outcroppings of rocks and interesting terrain for kids to explore. Even on a crowded day, you can feel quite away from the crowds in this section, and it’s well shaded in many areas.

Athens public markets:

There are three Agoras in downtown Athens. We visited the Ancient Agora where the Thission building is, below the Acropolis and the hill of Areospagos. It’s an easy exit point after doing the hill area described above. You’ll find a lively flea market just past the ruins of the Agora, and the narrow streets here are fun to poke around in. (Just be on alert for pickpockets.) You can also find quite a few dining options in this part of town with inviting sidewalk seating and shaded patios. Alternatively, you can head to the Athens Dimotiki Agora (Public Market) for meat, seafood and produce, as well as nuts and seed and dried fruits.

Bonus: after visiting the Acropolis area, learn more about the daily lives of ancient Athenians at the Museum of Cycladic Art. While it’s known for its Cycladic collection, of course, the entire fourth floor is devoted to day-to-day Greek antiquity. The exhibit is designed to let you follow the life of an Athenian male from birth until death, with panels and artifacts depicting an ancient Athenian wedding, school and social life, funeral, and more. The short film recreating the Athenian’s life is well worth watching (it’s about 10 minutes long).

GENERAL TIPS:

We found Athenians to be a friendly, welcoming people, and everyone we interacted with had a smile for us. There is a metro system throughout the city, but we took taxi cabs exclusively, which proved to be plentiful and quite quick. There is no separate Uber/Lyft system in Athens, but the Uber app will work, connecting you to city cabs so you can forgo using cash. If you opt to use the metered cabs instead, just know that they only take cash. We never felt cheated by a cab driver during our stay.
If you like strong coffee, try the Greek coffee treat known as a frappe or ‘nescafe’, available everywhere hot or iced. They’re a rich, frothy brew, in a size more in-line with an American coffee to go, as opposed to a espresso.
The Greek language is tough, and no one will expect you to speak it, but knowing a few greetings can go a long way. The phonetic spelling for ‘hello’ is YAH-soo, and ‘good morning’ is kah-lee-MER-ah. Both ‘please’ and ‘thank you’ is para-kah-LOE.

Want tips on where to stay in Athens? We have our Athens hotel picks here.

Iceland camper van road trip tips

July 7, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Iceland has become a popular family vacation destination for many reasons: it is every bit as breathtakingly beautiful as it looks in photographs, there’s essentially no language barrier, it’s extremely family-friendly, and the outdoor recreation and sightseeing is almost endless.

What Iceland is not: cheap. Standard hotels can cost families as much as $400 per night on top of expensive rental car fees (especially if you need a 4×4 car for rough roads). Dining in Iceland is very expensive as well; fast food meals at a basic grill during the time of our 2017 trip were about $15 U.S. per person, and standard sit-down restaurant meals were closer to $45-50 per person. The solution: take an Iceland camper van road trip and combine your lodging and car rental cost and eliminate your restaurant dining out cost. Ready for Iceland camper van road trip tips? Let’s get started!

Start with your camper van rental:

The first stage of planning your Iceland road trip is booking your camper van rental. We used Kuku Campers, one of the largest camper van rental companies in Iceland. Kuku Campers offers just about every size and type of camper van, ranging from small vans that sleep 2-3 people to the larger style we rented, which sleeps five (both are Class C, which don’t require any additional training or know-how to drive). You can also opt between 2×2 or 4×4.

Kuku 2×2 category C camper

We picked this 2×2 van for five people (click on the link to see detailed interior photos) which cost approximately $1800 for nine days ($200 per night). This cost was significantly less than we’d spend on hotels and a rental car. Kuku Campers offers this van in standard (stick shift) or automatic. We opted for standard, as it was cheaper, and I am comfortable driving a stick shift.

Note: Do you need a 4×4 vehicle? If you’re a regular reader of Pit Stops for Kids, you know we’re a pretty adventurous family. We rented a 2×2 van, and were able to access everything we wanted, and more. You need a 4×4 vehicle only if you plan to drive F roads (Iceland’s most rugged dirt roads), which is needed if you plan to backpack or hike deep in the interior.

The features and configuration of our camper van:

In the front were two bucket seats (the driver’s seat and the front passenger seat). Behind those seats was the kitchen area: a countertop/food prep surface with sink and faucet, storage area for a portable stove/cook top, electric refrigerator (which runs when the car is running), dishes and kitchen utensils and silverware, a large water storage container, and a pantry area for food. Behind the kitchen was the main compartment of the van, which had a padded bench seat in a U shape, surrounded by a roomy kitchen table. Above this was a sleeping bunk. At night, the table and bench seat easily folded down to become a second sleeping area. The bottom slept three, and the top slept two. During the day, passengers could sit on the bench seat with seatbelt while the van was on the road.

Lots of space: to the front of this photo would be the kitchen area.

In addition to the running water, which ran from a hose from the water container to the kitchen sink, the van had two overhead lights and a nighttime heater (which could be run when the van was turned off). There is no bathroom in the van, but this isn’t a problem (we’ll get to that soon). We found sufficient storage in the van for our bags under the bench seats and at the very back of the van, in addition to smaller storage areas above the front seats and above the kitchen. Lastly, there were useful hooks to hold jackets and rain pants, as well as curtains to pull around the windows at night. These hung on elastic cords, which we used to hang additional items like wet towels and swimsuits.

But was the van hard to drive?

At first, a little bit, yes. I don’t ever drive anything larger than a minivan at home, so for me, it took a day to get comfortable driving something taller and wider. Icelandic roads are narrower than US roads, so there is definitely a learning curve. I also needed time to get used to backing up the van (though it was far easier than trying to back up a van with a trailer). By Day 2, I was quite comfortable. Overall, driving the van was no big deal, even on dirt and gravel roads, though the van certainly got dirty!

Stopping to make a snack and take photos on a gravel road. There are plenty of turn-outs to use!

The van took diesel fuel, which seemed to be easily available at every gas station, and it cost me about $160 to fill the tank. We drove for eight days, I filled up twice and topped off once, and I spent a total of $360 on gas. At all campgrounds and parking lots for trails, scenic overlooks, and historic sites, there was ample room to park the van. The only place I had trouble navigating parking was in downtown Reykjavik, and even there, I managed (but it was stressful).

Next plan your trip! Here’s what to expect:

I’m going to say something now that I never say on this site: don’t over-plan. If you allow your itinerary to stay flexible, you’ll be able to advantage of all the many moments of spontaneity possible in Iceland. There are natural wonders and historic sites every few kilometers at times; you can’t do it all, but you can decide what to do in the moment. We planned a general route which included the south, west, and east. We purposely didn’t travel the entire Ring Road because with only eight full days on the road, we wanted to spend more time on side roads than Route 1.

Waterfall at the base of one of our campsites.

I absolutely loved having our Kuku Camper, because of the freedom it offered. Every day, we traveled WITH our lodging and dining, so we never had to worry about getting to an exact place to eat or sleep each night. In Iceland, especially in the rural areas (which is most areas), we found that restaurants and shops closed relatively early in the day, even in the peak of summer. We were hard pressed to find dining options open after 6 pm, so we loved the ability to picnic our meals anytime, anyplace. We got into a routine of making breakfast in our camper at the campground in the morning, making a picnic or packed lunch to enjoy out and about, and then stopping at one of Iceland’s many, many scenic overlooks to BBQ or cook our dinner on the road. We arrived at each campground at night well-fed and ready to make camp. While we were driving, if someone was hungry, they could simply make a sandwich on the road, and if we decided at the last minute to detour to see or do something, we never had to care about missing reservations.

Iceland outdoor picnic!

The most unnatural thing to me, as a natural planner, was the fact that you do not need to make campground reservations. If you’ve tried to camp in popular campgrounds in the US in summer, you know this simply isn’t true at home. But in Iceland, they really do mean it when they say their campgrounds do not fill up. They really don’t. Not anywhere. Not ever.

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Guide to flying budget airlines in Europe

January 30, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’re like me, you find those super cheap budget airline ticket prices very tempting. €25 per person from Paris to Rome? €45 to Copenhagen? Sign us up! These prices are not too good to be true; families really can get fares like these on airline tickets in Europe. Fail to read the fine print, however, and you’ll end up paying more. Much, much more. Here’s what you need to know before flying budget airlines in Europe:

Ryan Air tips:

The mack daddy of budget airlines (and certainly the first I became familiar with), Ryan Air offers insanely low prices. However, know the rules to avoid extra fees:

1. Print boarding passes before your flight. I don’t mean just check in before your flight, make sure you have your confirmation number, or find that booking email on your phone. I mean PRINT YOUR BOARDING PASSES. Otherwise, you face a steep fine for them to print them at the desk. Is this silly? Of course it is.

2. You can (and should) check in with Ryan Air one week before your flight. For us, this meant that during a recent trip to Europe, I checked in for my Ryan Air inter-city flight scheduled for mid-way through our trip before I could even check in for our cross-Atlantic flight. When you check in and print your boarding passes, you’ll be required to enter every person’s birthdate and passport number.

3. When booking, be sure to buy adult tickets for adults and kid tickets for kids (under 16), no matter the difference (or not) in price. If you don’t, you’ll be unable to check in your child when promoted for his or her birth year if you’ve accidentally booked an adult ticket. If for any reason you can’t print your boarding passes, use the online chat option to resolve the problem immediately. I chatted with a Ryan Air representative when I couldn’t print my 16-year-old’s pass and screen-captured the conversation in which he stated a gate agent would print the boarding pass at no charge. They complied at the gate because the conversation was noted in their system and I had the screen capture. Just saying, ‘they said it would be ok’ is not enough.

4. Ryan Air now allows one carry-on and one personal item, just like in the US, though the officially carry-on size is one inch smaller. We had no problem boarding with 22 inch carry-ons, but we also made sure to queue up right when boarding was called to avoid being one of the last to board. These are the people whose bags were scrutinized.

EasyJet tips:

There’s nothing easy about flying EasyJet, but it’s certainly cheap. Here are a few tips:

1. Note their carry-on restriction of only ONE bag per person. This does not mean a carry-on and a personal item or backpack, but rather only ONE piece of baggage total. Families can check bags if needed, for 25 euros online, 35 euros at the check-in desk, or 45 euros at the gate. Ouch. Here’s what we did: each person in our family had a carry-on and a backpack. We put all our extra shoes and laundry in our largest carry-on, and paid to check it online for 25 euros. We then had just enough room for everyone to stuff their backpack into their carry-on for the flight, with one person carrying only the largest backpack. Whew!

2. Queue up to board early. If the boarding time is listed as 8:30 am, for instance, you’ll see people queuing as early as 8 am. By all means, join them, because like with Ryan Air, those last few to board have their carry on bag size analyzed more carefully. Though I will note that during the busy holiday season, a gate agent came down the line and measured each and every person’s bag. Talk about stress!

3. Bring water and snacks onboard. Nothing will be complimentary onboard. For those who have flown Frontier or Allegiant in the States, you know the drill.

General tips and cost traps:

Budget airline gates are almost always located at secondary or smaller airports, which in turn are almost always further away than the main airport serving a city. Take this into account: while some of these airports are served by metro trains or shuttles, expect to pay more per person on ground transportation. If you have an early flight, you may even need a private car service or taxi transport.

For example, we had a 9 am flight out of Paris’ BVA airport, located further afield than CDG or even ORLY. While 9 am seems like a civilized flight time, we had to leave our accommodations at 6 am to get to the airport by 7:15 am. We used this airport shuttle service which picked us up at our door. Had we used the bus service offered, we would have had to leave earlier…too early to take the metro to the bus line. The takeaway: if you know you’ll be taking public transit to a distant airport, opt for a later flight time because the whole process will take awhile. If you need to fly earlier in the day, budget for a shuttle or car service. We paid $125 on ground transportation in this case. If we’d had a later flight, the bus would have cost us around $75. We still saved more than if we’d flown a more expensive airline, but the ‘hassle-factor’ is strong here.

For shorter airport transfers, consider booking a private car service in advance. Often not much more expensive than public transit for a family of 4-5, a car service is far more relaxing and convenient. We used Blacklane from CDG to our Paris accommodations, and liked them so much, we booked them again instead of a taxi when we needed early morning transportation from our accommodations to a tour office.

Don’t dismiss a taxi as an option. When we needed to get from our downtown Rome accommodations to FCA, the Da Vinci airport train would have been 14 Euros per person (almost 75 for our family of five) whereas a taxi cost us 60. Negotiate a price with the driver before you get in the cab. (In Rome, only take white taxis…the others are unofficial and illegal.)

We love multi-day metro passes in major cities, but these passes often do not include outer zones serving airports. Be prepared to buy one-way fare for each person if you book a later flight on any airline.

Even taking these ground transportation expenses into account, all our budget airline flights cost us less than their standard airline counterparts. By planning far ahead of time, using Ryan Air and EasyJet can absolutely be worth the hassle. Just don’t expect to come out ahead if you’re planning on the fly (no pun intended).

How we planned our European trip on a budget

January 6, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

This winter, the Pit Stops for Kids crew will be heading to France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Italy. Our entire trip has been planned with budget in mind, by necessity! If your family, like ours, wants to plan a European trip on a budget, we have tips below!

We will travel in an off-season.

Yes, Paris in springtime is lovely, and Scandinavia in the summer is just about perfect. But airfare and lodging prices soar during peak time periods. Everyone knows that when on a budget, one of the easiest ways to save money is to travel in the off-season, but with kids in school and sports, we know this is easier said than done. Think outside the box: I was surprised to learn that if booked far enough in advance, the Christmas holiday season was very affordable, with cheaper airfare than in spring. We were able to book a trip that didn’t force the kids to miss any school days but still fell into a budget season period.

If you do book a winter holiday trip, go with the flow of the Christmas and New Years’ holidays, taking advantage of special events and offerings. Instead of lamenting that you won’t be able to have the exact same trip you’d have in June or July, look for festivals, religious ceremonies, and celebrations that are unique to this festive season. For instance, I was bummed we wouldn’t be hiking in the Dutch countryside during our December trip, until I realized we’d be able to experience Belgium’s famous Christmas markets.

We finalized our travel dates around the best airfare.

Instead of deciding on our exact travel dates, then finding airfare to work around them, we kept our departure dates loose and finalized them around the most affordable airfare. This allowed us to use calendar tools on airline websites to find the cheapest fare within a 3-4 day window, each way. For example, for the Alitalia flight we booked from San Francisco to Paris, the price was $200 less if we flew on a Thursday rather than a Friday. On our return, flying on New Year’s Day is significantly less than flying the day after. Read how to find the lowest airfare for any trip.

We booked apartments instead of hotel rooms.

Hotel rooms are hard to come by economically for a family of five in major European cities. Instead of trying to cram into a room or booking two rooms per night for our family, we are using HomeAway and AirBnB vacation rentals. We enjoy booking directly from locals, because they can often give us extra tips and hints for our city travels, recommend restaurants, and give us directions to grocery stores. We’ve never had any problems booking through the above sites. Here’s an example of our savings:

Paris mid-range hotel room that sleeps 3: $200/night ($2,000 total for two rooms for five nights)
Paris apartment rental that sleeps 5: $100/night ($550 total for five nights including taxes and fees)

We priced lodging, transportation, and tours a la carte.

It can be easier to book lodging and tours in one package from a number of tour operators, but we dislike large group tours and don’t want to stay in hotels that cater to large groups. Instead, we booked individual tours in both Rome and Paris. (We’ll be touring with Fat Tire Tours and Overome.) While this seems like an extravagance, it’s actually less costly because we’ve gotten our lodging for a good price, and we’ll have the benefit of touring in a much smaller group.

We opted for longer stays per location.

Instead of giving into the temptation of changing location every few days, which would bump our transportation and lodging costs considerably, we have opted to stay overnight in only three locations over 15 days. This gives us time to fully explore each area, and keeps our lodging costs as low as possible (five nights in an apartment rental is far cheaper than five separate nights in five different accommodations). We can also forgo Eurail type ticket packages in favor of one-time fares because we won’t be taking trains very often.

We price compared trains vs planes.

Once our transatlantic flight plans were set, we needed to figure out how we’d travel from city to city within Europe. Don’t assume train travel will be cheaper than airfare. For our travel from Paris to nearby Belgium, the train was our best option, but leaving Brussels, it was far cheaper to grab a flight on an economy airline to Rome than to take the train to nearby London, for instance. We are using EasyJet and RyanAir for our internal flights. These airlines are bare bones, but for short flights, we’re willing to make this sacrifice.

We’re not renting a car.

Car rental in Europe can get expensive, as it can anywhere. We will be buying prepaid metro tickets for each major city we’re visiting, and will be relying on bus and train schedules everywhere we go. Would driving a car be more efficient? Sure, but we’re happy to see the sights in a more leisurely manner via public transit for the tradeoff of not having to navigate roads. Be sure to budget for public transit, and note that if you have anything larger than a family of four, taxi cabs will not likely be economical. Note: the only exception to our public transit rule will upon our arrival in Paris. After a long transatlantic journey, we know we’ll be tired. I opted for a private town car to pick us up at the airport and deliver us to our apartment. This ‘luxury’ costs less than getting two taxi cabs. (We’re using Blacklane.)

We’re eating street food and shopping in grocery stores.

For us, having our own kitchen in each of our apartment rentals just makes more sense than eating every meal out. While we will certainly eat some meals in restaurants, we plan to enjoy the multicultural experience of shopping in local grocery stores and making our own meals. When we booked our apartments, we looked for rentals with grocery stores within walking distance. For lunches, when we’ll be out in cities exploring, we plan to buy foods at delis and stores for picnics and try street foods in cities.

Gift-free holiday: Why we opted for no presents at Christmas

November 11, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

When we decided the best time for our family’s bucket list trip to Europe was Christmas break, we, as parents, realized how unrealistic it would be to buy Christmas presents on top of the cost of the trip. While we would be budget traveling through Europe, we would still spend far more than the average amount we set aside for holiday spending. In addition, it simply wouldn’t be practical to try to haul Christmas gifts across the Atlantic to open Christmas Day, only to haul them back.

The idea of a gift-free holiday focusing on the wonderful gift of travel and experiences appealed to us greatly.

We went to the kids (ages 16, 14, and 11), and asked them what they thought of having our European trip be their Christmas gift. And their only Christmas gift. Their answer (in September), was a resounding YES. Whatever it took to get us all to Europe, they were onboard.

I was proud of them; I’ve never considered us to be a particularly materialistic or consumer-driven family, but let’s be real: my kids like presents. And like most families in middle class America, a big part of the Christmas holiday is centered around gifts, for better or for worse. None of my children still believed in Santa Claus, but they definitely still believed in making a list.

With the kids on board, we continued with our plans for Europe, spending all our Christmas gift fund on our travels. I knew we’d be celebrating Christmas Eve and Christmas Day in Florence, Italy, and started making plans for that time period in particular. I knew I wanted to make it special, despite the lack of gifts.

Because many parts of Italy celebrates the Epiphany more intensely than Christmas Day, I found that many local celebrations would have ended before our arrival in Florence. This disheartened me a little, but I forged ahead, asking our AirBnB host for restaurant recommendations that would be open and checking museum hours. By the time I was done planning, we had a lovely Christmas Eve meal reserved at a cafe recommended by a local, a Christmas morning self-guided walking tour, and plans to shop for and cook a Christmas Day dinner in our rented apartment.

I also enlisted the family’s help making a single family gift, which we would open together on Christmas morning. I ordered an AwesomeBox. This innovative gift allows families to add custom photos, stories, and messages to special cards for a lucky recipient. In our case, the recipient was us! Everyone filled out simple information online, such as ‘favorite family memory’ or ‘what I like most about this person is…’. AwesomeBox prints the cards, and ships them in a memory box. I had the box shipped to our house before we left, then brought the cards, unread, with us. They took up no more room than a deck of playing cards, and when we opened them on Christmas morning, it would be both a gift and a family event.

Lastly, we decided to do a family Secret Santa during our trip. We always budget a small amount of money for souvenirs, and for this holiday trip, we opted to purchase souvenirs for each other instead of for ourselves. Each family member drew a name, with the plan to buy three souvenirs for that person before Christmas Day. Souvenirs were to be $5 or less each. This way, we’d still be ‘buying things’ and everyone would still have something to ‘open’.

Here’s how it turned out (the good and the bad):

The first problem we had with our excellent gift-free holiday plan was with me. A few days before our departure, I started to panic. Maybe it was classic mom-guilt, but it just suddenly seemed terrible that I didn’t have gifts purchased for my kids. I even tried to talk my husband back out of our plan, and wanted to spend any amount, to purchase anything, for the boys. Needless to say, this was ridiculous, and I was talked down from the ledge.

The second problem we had was with our youngest. Despite agreeing to our plan, he apparently thought we didn’t really mean it, because in the days leading up to our trip, and even once on the trip, he referenced Christmas presents several times. Each time he said something about his anticipation of gifts, we reminded him gently that we’d decided our trip was our gift. And each time, he agreed, but seemed to continually ‘forget’. Needless to say, this did not help my guilt. What saved us was our Secret Santa plan. Our youngest loves buying things for others, and doing so brought him so much joy (and distraction) that he stopped wondering about ‘big’ gifts. It also helped that he knew someone was buying small items for him, too.

As it turns out, kids simply love the process of buying things for others and opening gifts, no matter how small.

At times, the souvenir shopping got to be a chore or a point of stress (as in, “I still need one more thing for so-and-so, and I can’t find anything!”), but for the most part, it was very satisfying. And our AwesomeBox was, well, awesome.

What our Christmas Day ended up looking like:

We arrived in Florence via train on Christmas Eve, and walking through the historic city center to our apartment was nothing short of magical. If the kids had ‘forgotten’ it was Christmas, they quickly remembered. On every corner, violinists played, and every street was adorned with holiday lights and decorations. Every church had an intricate cache out front. The bells chimed the hour, and we were entranced.

After settling into our apartment, we ventured out to the grocery store, where we purchased the makings of our Christmas morning meal. We bought a traditional Italian panettone (like a coffee cake), my kids’ favorite peach juice that’s abundant in Italy, and coffee. Then we walked to the small restaurant where we had a reservation, and had our first Tuscan meal. We ordered sparkling water and a bottle of wine, and toasted to our European Christmas.

That night, I reminded the kids yet again that ‘Santa’ had already gifted them with this trip (“Yeah, we know Mom!”…by this time, they’d heard it many times) but that we’d exchange our Secret Santa souvenirs and open our AwesomeBox with breakfast. For the first time ever, everyone slept in Christmas morning. We awoke to more church bells and a fun, special breakfast complete with a lace tablecloth I found in the apartment kitchen. We ate the panettone and exchanged our $5 gifts. Some were silly and some were thoughtful, and all made us feel loved.

We opened the AwesomeBox and took turns reading cards that expressed our gratitude for each other and our funniest/silliest/most important family memories. We took our time with this, and I think it was very special. The kids still keep their cards tucked away in their rooms.

We went out around noon, taking our historic walk of the city to learn more about Florence. The kids tolerated this with only some enthusiasm. I even heard things like, “It doesn’t feel like Christmas anymore.” Then, we turned a corner to find a tiny Christmas carnival in a small square. There was an ice skating rink, kiddie carnival rides, and a hot chocolate (cioccolata calda) stand. We stayed for the better part of an hour. Then we hiked to the best city views at Piazzale Michelangelo, where a large Christmas tree stood sentinel. It felt like Christmas again!

We ended up at a sidewalk cafe serving pizza for a late lunch, and never ended up making dinner! We ended our day with a nighttime stroll amid the city lights and an early bedtime in anticipation of museum hopping in the morning.

Today, the kids say they have no regrets about missing out on presents. After all, they’d be hard-pressed to remember what they’d gotten for Christmas, but still remember this trip like it was yesterday.

Tips for planning your own gift-free holiday:

Prepare kids well ahead of time. This goes without saying, but remember that kids may need frequent reminders as well. Weave your gift-free holiday plans into the fabric of your itinerary, if you will. We said things like, “Because we’re not doing gifts, we’ll be able to rent Segways in Rome,” or, “With the money we’re saving on presents, we’ll be able to go out to that expensive restaurant as a family.”
Have a Christmas Day plan. (Or whatever day is most important for your family, whether that’s Christmas, Christmas Eve, Three Kings Day, Boxing Day, or a day of Hanukkah.) Book a special restaurant reservation, plan a tour, or schedule a special family event. In other words, still mark the day. Don’t pretend it’s just like any other. Remember that many things may be closed on Christmas; ask ahead.
Encourage kids to think of the entire trip as ‘Christmas day’. Maybe that one special day won’t be chock full of events and celebrations, but remind kids that every day of your trip, you’re doing special things, eating fun foods, and seeing amazing sights. Organize a family ‘white elephant’ gift giving, or have ‘secret Santas’ to facilitate smaller-scale gift giving and thoughtfulness.
Bear in mind the ages of your kids. Honestly, I would not consider a gift-free holiday with kids who still believed in Santa. During family trips with kids this age, we’ve certainly scaled back presents for the sake of travel-ease, but we’ve always ‘delivered’ on the Santa promise.
Start small. If you’re not ready to commit to a completely gift-free holiday, consider buying your kids experiences instead of physical gifts for some birthdays or holidays. Buy them memberships, tickets to that special show, or lessons. Make the gift of experiences a regular thing in your family.

Amsterdam with kids: what to experience in Amsterdam

March 13, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

There are several cities around the world which are key traveler spots. One among them has to be Amsterdam which is the capital city of the Netherlands. When we think about the place the usual pictures do come in our mind that highlights its beauty. There are several popular destinations which are a must visit for all travelers. But along with that, we think that it is important to have some experiences that are solely local and will help you to know the city in a better way. So, we are here with some of the unique experiences that you can have in Amsterdam.

Visit Condomerie:

When we talk about Amsterdam, one of the things that strike us apart from the harbor is its red light area. So, one of the things that people need to think about is of safe sex. Condomerie is the shop that is dedicated to this and they do sell condoms. But apart from that the shop also lets you experience erotic art and it is operating in the city from 1987. They also provide information about safe sex which was derived from their need to win the battle against AIDS. They call themselves a specialist shop and we really like the interior of it.

Alternative Cultural Events at Vondelbunker:

It was the time of World War II and a lot of Atomic bunkers were built throughout the Netherlands. Vondelbunker is one of them that is present in Amsterdam. It was acquired by some of the artists and currently, they organize different events related to the place. If you are a fan of alternative and underground movements, then you will find your share of events over here. They have an interesting website that talks about the events that you can enjoy in the upcoming days. This spot will help you to know more about the youth culture that is an integral part of Amsterdam. To explore the culture of the city, the best is to have a guided tour of the city by a local and this can be done by connecting to Withlocals.

The Nine Streets:

If you are in Amsterdam, you will want to visit the local places that hold your attention. As you may already know the canals are an important part of the city. The nine streets crisscross the canals and make a beautiful site. You can easily walk to the place from the Royal Palace. There is everything from boutiques to art galleries to shops selling curios. One of the most interesting things that you should visit is the cafes present in this area. They brew fresh coffee whose taste will linger with you for a long time. Do try the bars to taste some amazing alcohol.

Visit the In De Wildeman:

When in Amsterdam, you need to indulge in tasting the beer. This is an amazing beer tasting bar which is found in the city. It was formerly a distillery so you can expect to find authentic beer over here. They sell 250 types of beer, so we are sure that the visitors will be overwhelmed. The place also has some options of the local Dutch brewers which is a must try for everyone. Do check their website to know more about the beers that they are currently serving. The place remains closed on Sundays and does find your way as it is hidden in an alley.

Check out books at Amsterdam’s Central Library:

When you are traveling you wouldn’t really think about checking out a library. But if you are someone who loves books, then do visit the central library. The OBA was first established in 1919 and the central library opened in 1979. The current building was established in 2007. The library is spread over 27,500 m². It remains open from 10 AM to 10 PM. As a traveler, you can go there for free and look at the different books that they have to offer.

So, here are some of the places that you can visit in Amsterdam. It is a really nice city and the inclusion of these places will make your stay even better.

Luxury stay in Crete: Marriott Luxury Collection Blue Palace

November 1, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

The Blue Palace, a Marriott Luxury Collection resort, is located on the north side of the island of Crete, Greece, at Elounda, about one hour’s drive from the Heraklion airport. This side of the island is without doubt the more touristy side, but for good reason: its beaches are beautiful, the small towns hugging the coastline are inviting and welcoming, and the Blue Palace shines like a collection of polished stones overlooking the Mediterranean.

Comprised of bungalows, suites and villas, every room seems to have a stunning ocean view at the Blue Palace, thanks to its unique design, with rooms stacked in several floors tucked into the hillside, almost as though they have burrowed cozily into the earth. Because of this configuration, the main lobby area is at level three, with a large outdoor pool, patio space, and dining on that level. Additional dining is on level four (this is the place for your morning breakfast buffet), with more options throughout the resort, right down to the beach level. There are no fewer than seven restaurants and bars, in total. I recommend The Blue Door, which replicates a traditional Greek taverna, located right near the beach, with indoor and outdoor seating. Order an assortment of shared plates, like we did, with wine for the table, or opt for seafood dishes here.

Upstairs, the Arsenali Lounge Bar is another good place to gather in the evenings, with tables overlooking the pools and ocean as well as inviting indoor bungalow nooks with couches and lantern light.

My ‘standard’ king villa was anything but, with a large patio overlooking the sea (with comfortable furniture) and spacious main room. The en-suite bathroom had both a tub and a shower, with a frosted glass door that slid to offer privacy in the toilet area as well. Instant coffee and tea service was available, which surprised me, really…what about a Nespresso machine, perhaps? There is a stocked mini-bar, as well as an extensive room service menu with generous hours. Any time day or night, you can find food here.

On the grounds, there are tennis courts, a private beach, indoor and outdoor pools, a kids’ club, a game area with outdoor ping-pong and the like, and a full fitness center with ongoing group classes, yoga sessions and private training offered. The full spa is located nearby, with 23 treatment rooms, each featuring soothing water sounds and diffused calming lighting. The Blue Palace spa utilizes therapeutic Thalassotherapy with their spa services.

When to go to the Blue Palace:

The off-season is more affordable than one might think for such luxury, with some rooms for as little as approximately 250 EU per night. Go in early fall, while the ocean water is still warm and the air temperatures remain around 70-80 degrees F. If you go in peak summer, you can expect to pay more and to endure hotter weather, but without doubt, you’ll be comfortable at the Blue Palace. The full breakfast buffet (valued at around 40 EU per person) does come included in some room rates, so be sure to ask about this possibility when booking.

What not to miss on Crete:

Be sure to schedule at least two full days simply to enjoy this resort, perhaps checking out the spa and kids’ club or just enjoying the beach and pools. Then, take a day to explore the archeological antiquities of Knossos, about an hour away, and the small towns along the northern coastline.

How to visit Knossos Crete

October 25, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Knossos Crete, one of the most important archeological sites of ancient Greece and the one-time capital of Minoan Crete, is conveniently located just outside Heraklion. You will fight for room between crowds from bus tours here, but if you go early, you should be able to beat the heat and the worst of the lines. You can hire a guide right on-site, or you can opt for an audio guide, when available. You’ll want one or the other to make heads or tails of this sprawling palace ruins, the home of the most important of Crete’s kings: King Menos, son of Zeus and Europa.

This marks the spot of the center of Minoan civilization, and should be a must do on any trip to Crete. You’ll want to devote half a day to the site and the museum (more on that in a moment). Knossos’ heyday lasted a whopping two thousand years, until the 5th century AD. The first excavation of the site was conducted in 1878 by Minos Kalokerinos of Herakleion. This was followed by the long-term excavations 1900-1913 and 1922-1930) of the Englishman Sir Arthur Evans, who uncovered virtually the entire palace.

The palace has extensive buildings, workshops, and even an advanced water and sewage system. You can see the remains of a maze of rooms, clay pipes snaking through the ground, an innovative early air-conditioning system, and the oldest road in Europe, at the end of which animal sacrifices were once performed. The ancient theater hosted religious ceremonies, and reconstructions of frescos adorn the walls of the king and queen’s quarters. You can see the king’s actual wooden throne (though be warned, the line can get long, so don’t save this for last) and look out at the expanse of olive trees and countryside.

After seeing the ruins, you’ll want to see the rest of the actual artifacts excavated from the inside (aside from the throne which remains at the site). The Heraklion Archaeological Museum is located about 15 minutes away by car, and is regarded as one of Europe”s most important museums.

The most important collection is the treasures of Minoan civilization, which includes jugs, jewelry, frescos, and religious and everyday objects from Knossos. The address is Xanthoudidou 2, 71202 Heraklion.

You can find street-side dining (sit-down or to-go) in the square adjacent to the museum, and some souvenir-quality shopping.

Want to know the most epic place to stay on Crete, for a luxury vacation? Read on!

Greece history tour: Visiting Delphi with kids

October 22, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Located approximately 2.5 hours’ drive from Athens, Delphi is like another world…a world tucked up in the mountains (yes, mountains!) of the northwest interior. According to mythology, Delphi is called ‘the navel of the world’, and it really does feel like the center of humanity while you’re visiting.

The sanctuary of Delphi, with its most famous oracle, is made even more mysterious and majestic by its stunning scenery. Literally hugging a mountainside, the ruins of Delphi feel otherworldly. Visiting, I can see why artists and creators draw inspiration from it. Side note: did you know that one of the settings for the new Assassin’s Creed Odyssey is set here? The game creators studied the topography and history of Delphi extensively.

The story behind Dephi revolves around Apollo. During pre-history, the site was sacred to Mother Earth and was guarded by the terrible serpent Python, who was later killed by Apollo. Apollo’s sanctuary was built here by Cretans and dates back to the Neolithic period (4000 BC). People experiencing life problems from financial woes to health issues pilgrimaged here to consult the oracle (have their fortunes told) and find answers and balance in this proclaimed ‘center’. They first passed through the marketplace at the base of the slope, where (conveniently) they could buy the tokens and offerings they needed before entering the structure dedicated to Apollo.

As you make your way up just like the pilgrims, the views just get more and more spectacular, and you can see the valley below and even the port and sea. There’s a stadium with a track at the very top (worth the hike) and far below, you can glimpse the remains of the gymnasium and other training facilities of the athletes who came here to compete. It seems that Delphi was part sacred and part festival during its time.

Planning your trip to Delphi:

Get there early, before the sun is at its peak because the site is very exposed and you will get sunburned if you’re not careful. Bring plenty of water, too and allow for time in the small museum after touring the ruins. Make sure your guide, if you opt to have one, is licensed.

You can do Delphi in a day as we did, on one long day trip from Athens (2.5 hours each way, through very pretty countryside), but I recommend staying over at least one night and perhaps two. You can always hire a car with an international drivers license; Greece is easy to drive in. The town of Delphi is just beyond the archeological site, and offers quaint hotels and restaurant with amazing views where they sprawl from the hillsides. The narrow streets are lively with people and there’s plenty of shopping to be had.

You could also stay about 10 minutes back, at the ski town of Arachova. Yes, I said ski town. This region of Greece is situated at 800 meters above sea level, and they do get snow. Even in the off-season, however, Arachova is arguably the cuter of the two towns, with even narrower cobbled streets and upscale shops.