Europe with kids - Pitstops for Kids

Lisbon with kids: What to do and where to stay in Portugal with the family

May 12, 2022 By Amy Hagstrom

Lisbon Portugal is a city of friendly people, colorful cobbled streets, breathtaking overlooks and fresh, delicious cuisine. There’s a castle, a marina, trolley cars and tuk tuks, dining can be casual and affordable and children are welcomed almost everywhere. In other words, Lisbon with kids is a no-brainer. It’s the perfect kid-friendly European city. Here’s how to spend 2-3 days in the City of Seven Hills.

Getting your bearings in Lisbon with kids:

Often compared to San Francisco, California for its hilly city streets, strikingly similar bay bridge and trolley (cable) cars, Lisbon doesn’t seem to have just one central district or downtown. Rather, several neighborhoods make for a good home base, within walking distance of many attractions. From the Chiado neighborhood, the historic Alfama neighborhood or the Bairro Alto neighborhood, you’ll be central to most sights.

Taking a tuk tuk tour through Lisbon’s winding, narrow streets can be a great way to get your bearings and have fun doing it. A good hotel concierge can reserve a tuk tuk tour for your family, or you can simply head to any attraction or square in the city and easily find one for hire. Most tuk tuk drivers act as tour guides, pointing out landmarks along the way, or families can request for tours of particular neighborhoods. Prices seem to be negotiable but for most, you’ll need cash (Euros). Opt for a tuk tuk marked ‘eco’ to reduce your carbon footprint as you tour. (Most can fit up to six people.)

If you’d rather explore on foot, head of one of the city’s many scenic overlooks to get the lay of the land. The easiest way to find one: simply start walking uphill, and look for the wide pedestrian-friendly squares at the tops of the hills. Our favorites overlooked the Castelo de San Jorge (more on that in a minute) at the top of Chiado, and the Tagus River at the top of the Alfamo neighborhood. Expect each overlook to present perfect photo opportunities, and some to have stall-style food vendors and even artisan marketplaces.

What not to miss in Lisbon with kids:

Castelo de São Jorge:

Kids and castles tend to go nicely together. Since your kids will spot this one from most overlooks, they’ll want to go sooner rather than later. And it’s easy to do so: Lisbon’s castle is an archaeological site with the ruins of the former Alcáçova palace on the grounds, and again, you can find great views of Lisbon here. Leave time to play in the gardens too, especially on a hot day…the shade will be welcome.

Elevator de Saint Justa:

Not to be confused with the da Gloria or do Lavra elevators (which are steep trolley car routes), this historic elevator located in the Chiado district at Rossio square is exactly that….a vertical elevator by which to observe the city. The line can get long to buy tickets and enter, so if you don’t feel like waiting, just walk up the stairs to view the elevator from the various sides (it’s an impressive, ornate structure) and then explore the high-end stores and souvenir shops in the immediate vicinity.

Trolley 28 tour:

A trolley is a main form of transportation in Lisbon, and you’ll see trolley tracks criss-crossing most city streets. The trolley system is part of the local metro/public transit system, and multi-day tickets can be purchased for all the busses, trolleys and metro. However, if you just want to try the trolley for fun, you can use Trolley 28 as a hop-on, hop-off tour opportunity. One ticket gets you unlimited on and off privileges during the day. Think of Lisbon’s Trolley 28 like San Francisco’s cable cars…as much an attraction as a means of transport.

Parque das Naçoes:

This ultra-modern site of the 1998 World Exposition is a nice place to relax with kids after city exploration. You’ll find the Oceanario de Lisboa here, as well as plenty of open space for play. If you want another activity, the Telecabine Lisboa (cable car) is located here, which runs above the river at Parque das Nacoes to offer a panorama of the whole Nation’s Park area.

Belém:

Located along the water just west of the city center (about a ten minute or 15 Euro cab or Uber ride), Belém serves as the museum capital of Lisbon. The highlight is the Jerónimos Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an example of Manueline architecture, but if you ask kids, the real highlight is probably Pastêis de Belém, the original seller of Lisbon’s most delicious custard tart treat. The line can look imposing at the shop, but there are both indoor and outdoor seating/ordering counters, and even a long line tends to take less than 15 minutes. Next to the monastery is Lisbon’s museum of archeology, worth a visit in its own right. However, if the line is long to enter the monastery (when we visited during Europe’s spring break period, it stretched hours long), get in the much shorter line at the museum instead. You can buy tickets for just the monastery or combined tickets inside (this line was only 30 minutes). Inside the monastery, you’ll find a few exhibits, but mostly, it’s an opportunity to stroll through the beautiful grounds (well worth doing). At the time of our visit, combined tickets were 12 Euro per adult.

Time Out Market:

Also known as the Mercado da Ribeira, Time Out Market is housed in a beautiful historic building near the water at the edge of the Cais do Sodré neighborhood and Chiado neighborhood. Right behind it, you’ll find the famous Pink Street (which is worth a quick look in the daytime but is somewhat seedy at night…think strip clubs and dive bars). The Time Out Market, however, is one of the city’s main food courts that holds everything from traditional meals to trendy treats and bakeries. Communal tables line the middle, and bottles of wine can be purchased at some stalls to share with the family (or new friends). Kids will find just about any type of food on offer here, from traditional Portuguese cuisine to soups and sandwiches. Pasteis de Nata sells Lisbon’s favorite pastry here, and while it’s not the original shop, we actually found their pastries superior to those in Belém.

Tip: Consider the Lisbon pass if you think you’ll be visiting most attractions in the city, as you’ll save money and gain some transportation options on the metro as well. We found getting around by foot or Uber easiest, but the Lisbon Pass can pay for itself for the ticket entries alone.

Sintra:

If you have time to explore this medieval town outside of the city, go! It was a highlight of the trip for many. From central Lisbon, it’s easy to get to Sintra by train (head to the main train terminal by Rossio), then by Uber or taxi. Plan to spend most of the day here, and it really helps to have a guide (your hotel’s front desk or concierge can arrange this, or you can book ahead of time). The narrow, winding streets are fun to explore, and kids love the crazy caves, grottos and underground walkways located within a large garden, Quinta da Regaleira. Read a full article on Sintra.

Alfama:

This Lisbon neighborhood is the oldest in the city, and worth exploring as a destination in its own right. Start at the Museum de Fado on the waterfront, and take any of the narrow, twisting roads uphill. You’ll discover tucked away shops, cafes and souvenir stores, as well as cathedrals and overlooks. Stop for a cold drink (a pitcher of sangria is always a good idea for the grown-ups) and take your time. You’ll be stopping often to take photos.

Tip: Have time for a date night? Head to Bairro Alto, the hilly Bohemian neighborhood walkable from the Chiado area. The young, hip scene here is decidedly trendy but very accessible. You’ll find any number of wine bars and rooftop bars (we recommend Park Bar, located at the top of a parking garage with excellent patio views) and dining options ranging from street food to upscale restaurants. If you want to listen to fado (traditional Portuguese guitar music), Laia Fado in Bairro Alto requires reservations and will be a late night out (starts around 9 pm and was still going strong when we left at midnight) but has no cover charge (but a minimum 50 Euro order per customer).

Additional fado bars and restaurants with earlier music offerings can be found all over the Alfama; we saw some with 7:30 pm start times. In Chiado, By the Wine offers excellent ambiance and an impressive wine selection (though you won’t be left wanting a most Lisbon wine bars). Nearby, Mesón Andaluz Restaurant and Tapas offers an equally lovely atmosphere for a nice evening out.

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Exploring the Acropolis area of Athens

October 5, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

Likely at the top of your must-do list for Athens, the Acropolis isn’t just one stop. Make a day of it by getting a thorough tour of the entire Acropolis area, dedicating your morning to the museum and your afternoon to the outdoor sites. Here’s how to go about your day at the Acropolis area of Athens:

Acropolis Museum:

The Acropolis Museum is where you’ll learn what, exactly, you’re about to see and why it matters. We suggest doing it first, even though the outdoor sites are likely to be cooler in the morning, because of the cruise ship schedule: try to walk around the ruins of the Acropolis in the morning and you’re likely to find yourself in long entry lines.

The museum makes a great first impression: you’ll walk right over impressive ruins, once upon a time a neighborhood of baths, markets and houses under modern-day Athens. They’re now under glass, so you walk right over archeological sites that date back to the fifth century BC. After entering the museum, the first collection in the wide glass-floored gallery displays artifacts from the slopes of the Acropolis. Basically, you’re going to see the things that used to be on the hill, in the Parthenon. In antiquity, the slopes of the Sacred Rock was the transition zone between the city and its most famous sanctuary, where large and small sanctuaries existed alongside private houses. Yes, there were private residences that close to the impressive Acropolis.

Definitely make a stop in the Parthenon Gallery on the third floor for the video presentation about the Parthenon. This will give kids, especially, better background before they ascend the slope.

Acropolis:

Time to see the actual Acropolis! At this UNESCO site, you’ll see arguably the greatest architectural endeavors of Greek Antiquity. A tiny bit of background: in the second half of the fifth century BC, thought and art flourished in Athens, and artists, under the inspired guidance of the sculptor Pheidias and the help of a lot of slaves, no doubt, transformed the rocky hill into a unique monument to the arts. We suggest seeing this sprawling hillside with a guide, but if you go it solo, get an audio guide, at very least. There’s a lot to see, and not too many signs or markers to help you out.

Give yourself at least two hours to ascend the hill, walk around the top to see the structures dedicated to Athena and Nike (among others) from every angle, then back down, stopping to see a few of the lesser buildings.

The Hills of the Muses:

Next, go back to the cobbled pedestrian walkway at the base of the Acropolis and ascend a lesser hill, leading to the Hills of the Muses Philopappos, Pnyx, and Nymphs. This archeological site has over a dozen points of interest, including the old gate to the city and the site of the birth of democracy, where citizens first embraced this style of government (minus, of course women and slaves, who continued to have no rights or voice). Don’t miss the ‘prison of Socrates’, incorrectly named; it was not a prison at all, but rather the hiding place for many Greek antiquities during the second world war. Even under torture, the Greeks did not reveal where they’d hidden the treasures that are now enjoyed by the world in museums.

You’ll also see some of the best views of the Acropolis and the surrounding city from these hills, and there are outcroppings of rocks and interesting terrain for kids to explore. Even on a crowded day, you can feel quite away from the crowds in this section, and it’s well shaded in many areas.

Athens public markets:

There are three Agoras in downtown Athens. We visited the Ancient Agora where the Thission building is, below the Acropolis and the hill of Areospagos. It’s an easy exit point after doing the hill area described above. You’ll find a lively flea market just past the ruins of the Agora, and the narrow streets here are fun to poke around in. (Just be on alert for pickpockets.) You can also find quite a few dining options in this part of town with inviting sidewalk seating and shaded patios. Alternatively, you can head to the Athens Dimotiki Agora (Public Market) for meat, seafood and produce, as well as nuts and seed and dried fruits.

Bonus: after visiting the Acropolis area, learn more about the daily lives of ancient Athenians at the Museum of Cycladic Art. While it’s known for its Cycladic collection, of course, the entire fourth floor is devoted to day-to-day Greek antiquity. The exhibit is designed to let you follow the life of an Athenian male from birth until death, with panels and artifacts depicting an ancient Athenian wedding, school and social life, funeral, and more. The short film recreating the Athenian’s life is well worth watching (it’s about 10 minutes long).

GENERAL TIPS:

We found Athenians to be a friendly, welcoming people, and everyone we interacted with had a smile for us. There is a metro system throughout the city, but we took taxi cabs exclusively, which proved to be plentiful and quite quick. There is no separate Uber/Lyft system in Athens, but the Uber app will work, connecting you to city cabs so you can forgo using cash. If you opt to use the metered cabs instead, just know that they only take cash. We never felt cheated by a cab driver during our stay.
If you like strong coffee, try the Greek coffee treat known as a frappe or ‘nescafe’, available everywhere hot or iced. They’re a rich, frothy brew, in a size more in-line with an American coffee to go, as opposed to a espresso.
The Greek language is tough, and no one will expect you to speak it, but knowing a few greetings can go a long way. The phonetic spelling for ‘hello’ is YAH-soo, and ‘good morning’ is kah-lee-MER-ah. Both ‘please’ and ‘thank you’ is para-kah-LOE.

Want tips on where to stay in Athens? We have our Athens hotel picks here.

Four day trips from Rome (with or without a car)

August 12, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

We’re in the midst of organizing our first family European trip, which is great fun. After all, your trip starts the minute you begin planning it! I’ve always loved Rome, so I know the Colosseum, Vatican, and lesser-known stops like the Mercato Testaccio will be on the itinerary. However, I also know my favorite way of experiencing the Eternal City (which consisted of multiple days of city touring and lots of pizza and wine) will need adjusting. This time around, we’ll eat just as much pizza, but will also head outside the city to see more of the Roman and Tuscan countryside. Below, read our top four Roman day trip picks, and how to get to them.

Sabine Hills (Sabina):

For a good dose of walled cities, medieval architecture, and quintessentially Italian rolling hillsides, head to Sabina. Olive trees dot the countryside, as do monasteries and Renaissance palaces. I’ve toured an olive oil production here, but I know my kids would rather poke around in the ancient walled villages of Toffia or Farfa, or hike along the worn trails of Monti Lucretili National Park.

Start in Fara Sabina, either by train or car. A direct train departs every 15 minutes from stations in Rome to Fara Sabina-Montelibretti Station. This will take about 45 minutes, and then families will need to transfer to bus to tour other villages. If you rent a car in Italy, you’ll have more freedom to explore. Take the Rome-Florence (A1) motorway to Fiano Romano exit, then follow signs to Rieti and Fara Sabina.

Appia Antica (Old Appian Way):

One of my favorite sights in Italy, and located just outside the city limits of Rome, Old Appian Way is an ancient, narrow road leading to the catacombs of the Eternal City. A visit outside the walls of Rome is really valuable for kids: they can visually learn exactly how the gates would open and shut, and see where the dead were once buried. Is it creepy? Sure! But not as much as I thought it would be. Definitely take a catacombs tour (most are lead on the hour in Italian and English, with other languages getting a few per day), then plan to stay for the afternoon picnicking in the pretty countryside along the road.

No need for a car for this day trip. Take bus 218 from San Giovanni Metro stop. Start with the biggest and most extensive catacombs, St. Callixtus. Families can see the crypt of nine popes here, and excellent examples of early Christian art. Buy tour tickets at the entrance. From here, it’s possible to walk along the road, but it’s very narrow (and walled), so when we go as a family, I plan to take the bus from stop to stop along Old Appian Way.

Tivoli:

To show kids what Renaissance villas really looked like, a day trip to Tivoli is a must. Only about 35 km from Rome, Tivoli is home to both Villa d’Este, located in the Piazza Trento, and Hadrian’s Villa. It’s easy to tour both via the bus system that connects them. Villas d’Este’s gardens utilize an innovative water irrigation system parents can point out to kids; there are 500 fountains alone. Families can take a tour through Viator, or visit on their own.

If you’re driving, it’s an easy commute from Rome via the S5 to Tivoli. There’s train service from Rome’s Tiburtina station as well.

Florence:

Yes, families can get to Florence and the greater Tuscany region as a day trip from Rome, though it will certainly take all day. Spend time perusing Italy’s finest collection of Renaissance art at Galleria degli Uffizi, but definitely buy tickets online in advance. Then give kids a break from museums and architecture by spending time at the Ponte Vecchio, Florence’s first bridge, and Campanile, the bell tower in Piazza del Duomo.

The fastest (but most expensive) way to get to Florence from Rome is on the fast train, then walking to the historic center, but we plan to drive a rental car, which is three hours up the A1.

This post was done in partnership with Enterprise Rent-a-Car but they had no input on the content. All opinions are my own.

Photo credit: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra, Larry.

Rome

River cruise vacation: What to expect on a Vantage Travel river cruise

July 15, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

You only unpack once. You never have to plan, drive, or navigate in a foreign country. You wake up in a new city each day. All your meals are inclusive.

If this sounds like a dream, you haven’t tried a European river cruise! Whether you embark on a river cruise as a couples’ getaway (highly recommended!) or with older kids or teens, we have a full review of what you can expect on a VantageTravel.com river cruise vacation.

Vantage Travel river cruise vacation: what to expect onboard and off!

I recently experienced Vantage Travel’s Heart of Germany trip, which was eight days of luxury travel on the River Splendor. This ship sleeps 176 passengers, and felt cozy but not crowded during my sailing with approximately 110 passengers on board. We flew into Frankfurt, Germany and flew out of Munich, Germany, exploring seven ports through Bavaria along the journey.

The River Splendor navigated three rivers during our trip: the Rhine, Main, and Danube, and each day, we either docked directly in each town, able to walk off the ship and into a storybook village, or within a 1-1.5 hour bus ride from our day’s destination. Obviously, I preferred the former, but during approximately half the trip, the latter proved necessary.

We embarked in Mainz, Germany, and quickly settled into a comfortable routine: each evening before dinner, our capable cruise director, Renata Lovrovic, would brief us on the following day’s planned itinerary, which we could opt into or out of. (Should you wish to explore the port of call on your own, ship departure times were clearly announced.) Cocktail hour would follow in the lounge, with the evening capped by a four-course dinner. While the menu is upscale American with only a few local specialties, basic dishes and a healthy option are always available, such as grilled chicken or salmon. Breakfast is also a buffet, and an early riser’s breakfast allows even greater flexibility. By the time we retired to our stateroom each evening, a full written itinerary for the following day awaited us on our pillows.

Deluxe stateroom, photo courtesy of Erika Balbier

Throughout the cruise, we also had full access to a concierge, a massage therapist, and a 24-hour reception desk. Our bottom deck stateroom was decidedly cozy, but we had all the space we needed with impressive storage solutions for our luggage and clothes. (Staterooms sleep two, so families would need to upgrade to a suite or book two or more rooms.) The bathroom was downright roomy, and while I had worried that our two small windows wouldn’t let in enough light, we found the space to never feel gloomy. Nor did we ever feel seasick on the gentle Rhine, Main, and Danube rivers.

Our journey took us from Mainz to Regensburg. Each convergence of the rivers brought new ports and vistas, new foods to try, and new local city experts to guide us. Cultural activities on-board, such as German language lessons, cooking classes, and lectures were on offer almost daily, though we often ran out of time to enjoy them all.

Dining each evening is open seating, so we met new friends on-board who brightened our evening social life, often lingering over wine or aperitifs after our plates were cleared. Housekeeping is twice daily plus a turndown service, and each server in the dining room and lounge was courteous and well-trained.

What Vantage offers families who want to combine luxury with relaxation:

While the typical clientele of a Vantage river cruise skews older, families and grandparents with older kids and teens will find plenty to keep busy and engaged. Excursions off the ship occur every single day, and as stated above, parents and grandparents can opt-out with their kids at will, but trust me, you’ll want to stick around to learn with the group on most occasions.

Teens tend to congregate in the Captain’s Club, the window-filled space at the stern where meals are served buffet style (and alfresco in nice weather). Vantage crew members put out games and electronics in this space when kids are on-board, and the complimentary espresso machine serves up hot chocolate and coffee drinks at any time of day.

Free WiFi is offered the ship throughout the cruise, and while I brought a hot spot to ensure connectivity for work, I never needed it onboard the River Splendor. Connection was swift and reliable, so teens can stay connected via text, email and WhatsApp with family at home, friends, and new friends they meet on the cruise.

The library adjacent to the lounge houses cards, board games and books, making for a nice retreat, and the sundeck at the top level is perfect for active teens who want to make use of the small track in nice weather (though there’s also a small exercise room onboard). Complimentary bike use is available in most ports (and the bikes sail along with you on the deck of the River Splendor).

While river cruising is known to be relaxing (think lazy afternoons spotting castles while enjoying high tea and navigating locks while enjoying a glass of wine), VantageTravel.com focuses on the cultural connection just as ardently. Every single day brought a different walking tour, cathedral or castle visit, and opportunity for local dining and shopping.

What’s included in the river cruise vacation cost:

Nearly everything! Here’s what’s included:

Almost all excursions, all city guides and regional experts.
All bus transfers, including to and from the airport.
Almost every meal (only a couple meals in towns are not included)
House wine and beer (free-flowing) at every dinner.
Cocktail demonstration nightly.
WiFi onboard.
Bike and e-bike lending program.
24-hour access to coffee, espresso, and tea.
Museum entry and tour entry for all planned excursions.

What you’ll pay a la carte for:

Top-shelf wine and liquor at dinner, plus apres-dinner drinks.
Cocktails, wine and beer during cocktail hour in the lounge.
Add-on excursions (we never felt it necessary).

Tip: Bottled water is available for purchase at the bar in the lounge, but pitchers of drinking water is also available in the Captain’s Club and in the exercise room daily.

We loved that Vantage can book your airfare for you, and we highly advise going with this perk. It comes included with a pick-up right in the terminal, which is very welcome after a long journey, and Vantage did a great job finding us the best flight itineraries possible.

Before and during your trip, you also have access to a personal portal that allows you to view your itinerary, upgrade your cabin or tours, and check on details of your flights. We found Vantage to be highly organized and very responsive in the customer service department.

Our only wishes to add to the list for our river cruise vacation: we’d love to have had easier access to complimentary water onboard, would have liked more local cuisine at dinner, and would have welcomed smaller walking tour group sizes. Otherwise, we were happy cruise passengers for a blissful eight days!

Check out the stops we made during our Heart of Germany tour, in order to plan your own Bavarian vacation.

Disclosure: We experienced a Vantage Travel river cruise vacation as guests of Vantage, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Guide to flying budget airlines in Europe

January 30, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’re like me, you find those super cheap budget airline ticket prices very tempting. €25 per person from Paris to Rome? €45 to Copenhagen? Sign us up! These prices are not too good to be true; families really can get fares like these on airline tickets in Europe. Fail to read the fine print, however, and you’ll end up paying more. Much, much more. Here’s what you need to know before flying budget airlines in Europe:

Ryan Air tips:

The mack daddy of budget airlines (and certainly the first I became familiar with), Ryan Air offers insanely low prices. However, know the rules to avoid extra fees:

1. Print boarding passes before your flight. I don’t mean just check in before your flight, make sure you have your confirmation number, or find that booking email on your phone. I mean PRINT YOUR BOARDING PASSES. Otherwise, you face a steep fine for them to print them at the desk. Is this silly? Of course it is.

2. You can (and should) check in with Ryan Air one week before your flight. For us, this meant that during a recent trip to Europe, I checked in for my Ryan Air inter-city flight scheduled for mid-way through our trip before I could even check in for our cross-Atlantic flight. When you check in and print your boarding passes, you’ll be required to enter every person’s birthdate and passport number.

3. When booking, be sure to buy adult tickets for adults and kid tickets for kids (under 16), no matter the difference (or not) in price. If you don’t, you’ll be unable to check in your child when promoted for his or her birth year if you’ve accidentally booked an adult ticket. If for any reason you can’t print your boarding passes, use the online chat option to resolve the problem immediately. I chatted with a Ryan Air representative when I couldn’t print my 16-year-old’s pass and screen-captured the conversation in which he stated a gate agent would print the boarding pass at no charge. They complied at the gate because the conversation was noted in their system and I had the screen capture. Just saying, ‘they said it would be ok’ is not enough.

4. Ryan Air now allows one carry-on and one personal item, just like in the US, though the officially carry-on size is one inch smaller. We had no problem boarding with 22 inch carry-ons, but we also made sure to queue up right when boarding was called to avoid being one of the last to board. These are the people whose bags were scrutinized.

EasyJet tips:

There’s nothing easy about flying EasyJet, but it’s certainly cheap. Here are a few tips:

1. Note their carry-on restriction of only ONE bag per person. This does not mean a carry-on and a personal item or backpack, but rather only ONE piece of baggage total. Families can check bags if needed, for 25 euros online, 35 euros at the check-in desk, or 45 euros at the gate. Ouch. Here’s what we did: each person in our family had a carry-on and a backpack. We put all our extra shoes and laundry in our largest carry-on, and paid to check it online for 25 euros. We then had just enough room for everyone to stuff their backpack into their carry-on for the flight, with one person carrying only the largest backpack. Whew!

2. Queue up to board early. If the boarding time is listed as 8:30 am, for instance, you’ll see people queuing as early as 8 am. By all means, join them, because like with Ryan Air, those last few to board have their carry on bag size analyzed more carefully. Though I will note that during the busy holiday season, a gate agent came down the line and measured each and every person’s bag. Talk about stress!

3. Bring water and snacks onboard. Nothing will be complimentary onboard. For those who have flown Frontier or Allegiant in the States, you know the drill.

General tips and cost traps:

Budget airline gates are almost always located at secondary or smaller airports, which in turn are almost always further away than the main airport serving a city. Take this into account: while some of these airports are served by metro trains or shuttles, expect to pay more per person on ground transportation. If you have an early flight, you may even need a private car service or taxi transport.

For example, we had a 9 am flight out of Paris’ BVA airport, located further afield than CDG or even ORLY. While 9 am seems like a civilized flight time, we had to leave our accommodations at 6 am to get to the airport by 7:15 am. We used this airport shuttle service which picked us up at our door. Had we used the bus service offered, we would have had to leave earlier…too early to take the metro to the bus line. The takeaway: if you know you’ll be taking public transit to a distant airport, opt for a later flight time because the whole process will take awhile. If you need to fly earlier in the day, budget for a shuttle or car service. We paid $125 on ground transportation in this case. If we’d had a later flight, the bus would have cost us around $75. We still saved more than if we’d flown a more expensive airline, but the ‘hassle-factor’ is strong here.

For shorter airport transfers, consider booking a private car service in advance. Often not much more expensive than public transit for a family of 4-5, a car service is far more relaxing and convenient. We used Blacklane from CDG to our Paris accommodations, and liked them so much, we booked them again instead of a taxi when we needed early morning transportation from our accommodations to a tour office.

Don’t dismiss a taxi as an option. When we needed to get from our downtown Rome accommodations to FCA, the Da Vinci airport train would have been 14 Euros per person (almost 75 for our family of five) whereas a taxi cost us 60. Negotiate a price with the driver before you get in the cab. (In Rome, only take white taxis…the others are unofficial and illegal.)

We love multi-day metro passes in major cities, but these passes often do not include outer zones serving airports. Be prepared to buy one-way fare for each person if you book a later flight on any airline.

Even taking these ground transportation expenses into account, all our budget airline flights cost us less than their standard airline counterparts. By planning far ahead of time, using Ryan Air and EasyJet can absolutely be worth the hassle. Just don’t expect to come out ahead if you’re planning on the fly (no pun intended).

Italy with kids: Cinque Terre itinerary for families

January 9, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

On a trip to Italy with kids, you’re likely to devote a good deal of time to art and history in Florence and archeological ruins in Rome. Afterward, escape the intensity of the city with this three-day Cinque Terre itinerary for families.

Day One: Florence to Cinque Terre

We took a morning train from Florence to Lucca and spent several hours walking around this lovely walled city. It’s definitely worth the side trip. There is a baggage check place right across from the station where we left our bags. From there you can just walk into the town or rent a bike from the same place.

Then we took a train from Lucca to La Spezia (you can get one ticket that is Florence to La Spezia and just get off and on again) where you change trains for the towns of Cinque Terre. Be sure to get off at La Spezia Centrale station, not La Spezia Milgliarina.

In La Spezia, make sure you take a local train that stops in Riomaggiore (Genoa-La Spezia line). Check the train schedules because they don’t all stop at the little Cinque Terre towns.

We stayed 2 nights at Affittacamere Le Giare which I found through Trip Advisor and booked through Booking.com. Being off-season many places were closed. But this was a wonderful little apartment where our host was waiting for us and made dinner recommendations. We had time for a walk around the town using Rick Steves’ guide.

Note: you can also go from Milan to Cinque Terre.

Day Two: Village to village hiking

We awoke to rain but it cleared up by 9:00 and we found a café in town for breakfast. All the Cinque Terre villages cater to American tourists who come in droves in the summer so there are many cafes trying to serve American or English breakfasts.

You can go from village to village three different ways: by train, hike or by boat. Boats only run in season (and we visited in winter) and most of the train trip is through tunnels, obscuring views between village stops, so we opted to hike. The entire hike is approximately eight miles one-way, which is do-able with older kids and teens, when broken up into a leisurely day.

The first two sections of the hiking trail were closed: Riomaggiore to Manarola is only a 20-minute walk and has been closed for years; the second section, Manarola to Corniglia takes a little longer but is less scenic.

We took the train from Riomaggiore to Corniglia and started our hike from there. Finding the correct trail out of Corniglia toward Vernazza proved to be a bit of a challenge but after climbing a long set of switchback steps up to the town center, we found the red and white stripes on the stonewalls that serve as trail markers.

Tip: It’s a beautiful hike up out of Corniglia and you are able to look back at the village perched on the cliffs. Stunning!

The hike from Corniglia to Vernazza takes about an hour and a half but it is rocky, with some stone steps and somewhat hilly. You hike through vineyards and ravines. No one was on the trail when we were there, which made it pretty magical. In summer the crowds must really take away from the remote beauty, which is why we enjoyed an off-season visit. In another hour we came to Vernazza where we stopped for a delicious pizza lunch at a busy café right by the harbor.

Finding the continuing trail from Vernazza to Monterosso was easy. But the hike to Monterosso was the most difficult of all. It took us about an hour and a half with lots of ups and downs and muddy areas. But most of it is along cliffs with amazing views.

Monterosso is more of a resort town than the others. It is built on flat land and divided into two parts—the old and new. There are long stretches of beach and umbrella rentals, etc. It is also the only Cinque Terre village that is on a main train route. It was our least favorite.

To return to Riomaggiore, we took the train (they come about every hour, more often in summer) and rode it straight through from Monterosso to Riomaggiore. We were back in time to shower and rest up before a nice dinner by the harbor.

Day Three: Manarola back to Rome

We were headed back to Rome today for our morning flight out the next day, but before we left Riomaggiore we took the train to the second village that we could not hike to due to trail closures, Manarola. What a perfect morning outing! We found a little café for some pastries, but not much else was open. It was very quiet. Rick Steves’ walking guide took us up through the town and into the vineyards and graveyards with stone terraces.

We took the train back to Riomaggiore, got our bags and then took another train to La Spezia where we changed trains to get back to the Rome Termini.

In summary:

Visit Lucca coming or going to Cinque Terre
Walk as much of the trail as you can and what you can’t, go back to by train and visit the villages that way.
Don’t think you’ll have views on the train because you don’t.
Pick one village as a base because they are all so close together.
Go off-season. We were told April was the best.

Germany with kids: Five Bavarian cities not to miss

December 9, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

If the Germany of your imagination is storybook towns, medieval villages, vineyards and church steeples, you need to include the region of Bavaria (and its subsection of Franconia) in your European trip plans.

Germany with kids: 5 Bavarian cities not to miss!

After touring Germany with Vantagetravel.com, I compiled a collection of not-to-miss destinations throughout Bavaria that will satisfy kids’ need for fun and exploration and parents’ desire for history; good food, wine and beer; and shopping. Here’s where to go:

Heidelberg:

This university city is bustling with students and industry, but a compact yet vibrant old town (Altstadt) can be found at its center. This oldest part of the city is filled with historic buildings, market squares, and views of the Schloss Heidelberg (Heidelberg Castle).

In the center of the marketplace is the Heiliggeistkirche, or Church of the Holy Ghost. Nearby, the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge) spans the Neckar River, joining the two sides of historic Heidelberg. A visit to the Heidelberg Castle is a must, and getting there is half the fun: a funicular delivers travelers to the castle walls (ticket sales for both the castle and the ride up are at the base).

If there’s time, families can also see the Philosopher’s Walk, named by poets in the age of Romanticism in literature in the early 1800s. Also be on the lookout in the shop windows for the Studentenkuss, or Student’s Kiss, a popular chocolate candy.

Würzburg:

Located on the Main River in the heart of the Franconian wine region, Würzburg wows with the Würzburg Residence, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and palace of a prince bishop. Comparable to Europe’s other great Baroque palaces, the residence was constructed in 1720 and tours are available indoors and outside (don’t miss the gardens).

After touring the residence, head to the Marienkapelle, the chapel that is the gateway to the city’s pedestrian-friendly downtown. On Saturdays, a farmer’s market offers food stands and samples, and year-round, shopping is abundant.

Parents won’t want to miss the Alte Mainbrücke, or pedestrian bridge across the Main. Look for the walk-up wine bars, where you can grab a glass of Franconian wine to take to-go. (You’ll be given a token with your glass of wine, which you can use to get a refund on the cost of your wine glass if you opt not to keep it.)

Above the bridge, a pedestrian walkway winds up the hill through vineyards to the fortress of the bishop, which affords fantastic views of the city, plus ice cream and refreshments in the summer months.

Bamberg:

The fairytale charm of Bamberg is hard not to fall for, as its entire town center is a UNESCO site. The Bamberger Dom is the central cathedral, open to the public, near the Neue Residenz, or palace of this town’s prince bishop.

Families can stroll through town enjoying the quaint shops and arched bridges leading through clocktowers (yes, it looks like a Disney set), but you definitely must stop for a smoked beer at Schlenkerla Smoked Beer Brewery, dating back to 1405. The hops are smoked over a beechwood fire, and the beer is still tapped directly from wooden barrels. Pub food is available too, if you can get a table.

Regensburg:

The charm of Regensburg, which lies on the Danube, is in its abundant shopping amid medieval streets. St. Peter’s Cathedral dominates, but is sometimes outshone by the Old Stone Bridge crossing over the Danube. Visit the town hall, which once served as the seat of parliament with an original torture chamber during the middle ages.

It’s easy to lose track of time window shopping or dipping in and out of small stores while exploring the narrow streets and alleyways of Historic Old Town, but you’ll need sustenance. The Sausage Kitchen by the old stone bridge boasts the best sausages in town, but we recommend the German tapas at Gravenreuther.

Nürnberg:

While Nürnberg has its own medieval castle and a charming old town with centuries-old city walls, it’s best known for it’s WWII history. This is the place to teach kids more about the Nazi Party and the damage it inflicted worldwide, starting at the Documentation Center and Nazi Party Rallying Grounds, which can be viewed with ticketed entry. There’s a great museum on-site, and while all exhibits are displayed in German, audio guides are available. The subject matter can be difficult at times for sensitive or young children, and I encourage parents to prep kids ahead of time for images and content involving the Holocaust.

You can also see Courtroom 600, where the Nuremberg Trials took place after the war. It’s located in the Palace of Justice in a neighboring city (only about 15 minutes away from the Documentation Center), because Nürnberg was so severely bombed during the war.

When you’re ready for some brevity, head to old town Nürnberg, where you can visit the Toy Museum and Lebkuchen Schmidt, one of the cities best bakeries selling their specialty, gingerbread (in season). And be sure to try a late lunch at Wirtshaus Hütt’n, just off the main square, for an authentic Bavarian meal!

Have you been to Bavaria? What cities are your favorite and why?

Amsterdam with kids: what to experience in Amsterdam

March 13, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

There are several cities around the world which are key traveler spots. One among them has to be Amsterdam which is the capital city of the Netherlands. When we think about the place the usual pictures do come in our mind that highlights its beauty. There are several popular destinations which are a must visit for all travelers. But along with that, we think that it is important to have some experiences that are solely local and will help you to know the city in a better way. So, we are here with some of the unique experiences that you can have in Amsterdam.

Visit Condomerie:

When we talk about Amsterdam, one of the things that strike us apart from the harbor is its red light area. So, one of the things that people need to think about is of safe sex. Condomerie is the shop that is dedicated to this and they do sell condoms. But apart from that the shop also lets you experience erotic art and it is operating in the city from 1987. They also provide information about safe sex which was derived from their need to win the battle against AIDS. They call themselves a specialist shop and we really like the interior of it.

Alternative Cultural Events at Vondelbunker:

It was the time of World War II and a lot of Atomic bunkers were built throughout the Netherlands. Vondelbunker is one of them that is present in Amsterdam. It was acquired by some of the artists and currently, they organize different events related to the place. If you are a fan of alternative and underground movements, then you will find your share of events over here. They have an interesting website that talks about the events that you can enjoy in the upcoming days. This spot will help you to know more about the youth culture that is an integral part of Amsterdam. To explore the culture of the city, the best is to have a guided tour of the city by a local and this can be done by connecting to Withlocals.

The Nine Streets:

If you are in Amsterdam, you will want to visit the local places that hold your attention. As you may already know the canals are an important part of the city. The nine streets crisscross the canals and make a beautiful site. You can easily walk to the place from the Royal Palace. There is everything from boutiques to art galleries to shops selling curios. One of the most interesting things that you should visit is the cafes present in this area. They brew fresh coffee whose taste will linger with you for a long time. Do try the bars to taste some amazing alcohol.

Visit the In De Wildeman:

When in Amsterdam, you need to indulge in tasting the beer. This is an amazing beer tasting bar which is found in the city. It was formerly a distillery so you can expect to find authentic beer over here. They sell 250 types of beer, so we are sure that the visitors will be overwhelmed. The place also has some options of the local Dutch brewers which is a must try for everyone. Do check their website to know more about the beers that they are currently serving. The place remains closed on Sundays and does find your way as it is hidden in an alley.

Check out books at Amsterdam’s Central Library:

When you are traveling you wouldn’t really think about checking out a library. But if you are someone who loves books, then do visit the central library. The OBA was first established in 1919 and the central library opened in 1979. The current building was established in 2007. The library is spread over 27,500 m². It remains open from 10 AM to 10 PM. As a traveler, you can go there for free and look at the different books that they have to offer.

So, here are some of the places that you can visit in Amsterdam. It is a really nice city and the inclusion of these places will make your stay even better.

Why Ireland continues to be a favorite family travel destination

February 27, 2019 By Amy Hagstrom

Traveling with your toddler is a great way to enjoy a break and make amazing memories for you and your young family. However, the problem is that not all holiday destinations are child and toddler-friendly. Therefore, so many people will tell you if you have a baby that ‘you can kiss your traveling days goodbye’ or ‘you’ll not have the same freedom as before’.

While most people mean well when they say those kinds of things, they are not completely accurate. Planning a holiday vacation with kids in another country takes more planning. You need to consider where you go carefully, but it’s still possible. Ireland is one of the best places to travel with a toddler and in this post, we’re going to tell you why.

Irish People are Known for their Hospitality and Friendliness

Most places you go to Ireland, you will find that people are incredibly friendly and accommodating to children. At restaurants, there are special menus for kids, and many eateries supply child-friendly utensils. You may also find coffee shops give out things like miniature marshmallows to kids and shop assistants are patient.

Rural is Not Boring

Although you may be nervous about taking your toddler to more rural spots around Ireland. However, kids love seeing wildlife and farm animals in their element, and there are a lot of places to do that kind of activity in Ireland. So, while you and whoever you are traveling with can enjoy the scenery, your child can still have an enjoyable time too.

Trains in Ireland Are Great

If you don’t fancy driving or walking around all the time, you should take a train. Irish Rail offers a convenient transportation service. They also provide discounted seating for children, so they can have their place to sit by the window and look at the stunning countryside.

Small Cities Are Walkable

One of the great things about Ireland though is that many cities are walkable. So, you don’t have to use public transport and can walk with your child in their buggy. Even cities like Dublin, if you walk around the city centre, you can get everywhere quickly.

Easy to Drive Around

Ireland is very easy to get around if you have a car though, so don’t think you don’t have to walk or take public transportation all the time. However, if you are going to take the rental car or via train, you need to make sure you protect your family while on holiday with travel insurance. AA insurance has the right travel insurance for Ireland vacations at cheap prices. Some great features of AA travel insurance include coverage for multiple trips and medical coverage up to 10,000,000-Euros.

There are Lots of Places to Enjoy Live Music

Children love music, and in Ireland, where folk music is king, there are various places where you can find a traditional Irish folk band playing, whether it’s on a street corner or in a bar or café. Most pubs are strictly no-kids after dark, but many places have musical performances throughout the day.

Numerous Baby and Toddler-Focused Activities

Whereas with places like France and Italy, the most popular tourist attractions are sites of historical importance, museums and art galleries, where you need to wait in long lines and the atmospheres and layouts are less than flexible or suitable for younger children, Ireland is different. There are plenty of must-see sites, but a lot of what makes Ireland great is the lifestyle the people have.

Luxury stay in Crete: Marriott Luxury Collection Blue Palace

November 1, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

The Blue Palace, a Marriott Luxury Collection resort, is located on the north side of the island of Crete, Greece, at Elounda, about one hour’s drive from the Heraklion airport. This side of the island is without doubt the more touristy side, but for good reason: its beaches are beautiful, the small towns hugging the coastline are inviting and welcoming, and the Blue Palace shines like a collection of polished stones overlooking the Mediterranean.

Comprised of bungalows, suites and villas, every room seems to have a stunning ocean view at the Blue Palace, thanks to its unique design, with rooms stacked in several floors tucked into the hillside, almost as though they have burrowed cozily into the earth. Because of this configuration, the main lobby area is at level three, with a large outdoor pool, patio space, and dining on that level. Additional dining is on level four (this is the place for your morning breakfast buffet), with more options throughout the resort, right down to the beach level. There are no fewer than seven restaurants and bars, in total. I recommend The Blue Door, which replicates a traditional Greek taverna, located right near the beach, with indoor and outdoor seating. Order an assortment of shared plates, like we did, with wine for the table, or opt for seafood dishes here.

Upstairs, the Arsenali Lounge Bar is another good place to gather in the evenings, with tables overlooking the pools and ocean as well as inviting indoor bungalow nooks with couches and lantern light.

My ‘standard’ king villa was anything but, with a large patio overlooking the sea (with comfortable furniture) and spacious main room. The en-suite bathroom had both a tub and a shower, with a frosted glass door that slid to offer privacy in the toilet area as well. Instant coffee and tea service was available, which surprised me, really…what about a Nespresso machine, perhaps? There is a stocked mini-bar, as well as an extensive room service menu with generous hours. Any time day or night, you can find food here.

On the grounds, there are tennis courts, a private beach, indoor and outdoor pools, a kids’ club, a game area with outdoor ping-pong and the like, and a full fitness center with ongoing group classes, yoga sessions and private training offered. The full spa is located nearby, with 23 treatment rooms, each featuring soothing water sounds and diffused calming lighting. The Blue Palace spa utilizes therapeutic Thalassotherapy with their spa services.

When to go to the Blue Palace:

The off-season is more affordable than one might think for such luxury, with some rooms for as little as approximately 250 EU per night. Go in early fall, while the ocean water is still warm and the air temperatures remain around 70-80 degrees F. If you go in peak summer, you can expect to pay more and to endure hotter weather, but without doubt, you’ll be comfortable at the Blue Palace. The full breakfast buffet (valued at around 40 EU per person) does come included in some room rates, so be sure to ask about this possibility when booking.

What not to miss on Crete:

Be sure to schedule at least two full days simply to enjoy this resort, perhaps checking out the spa and kids’ club or just enjoying the beach and pools. Then, take a day to explore the archeological antiquities of Knossos, about an hour away, and the small towns along the northern coastline.