Europe with kids - Pitstops for Kids

How to visit Knossos Crete

October 25, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Knossos Crete, one of the most important archeological sites of ancient Greece and the one-time capital of Minoan Crete, is conveniently located just outside Heraklion. You will fight for room between crowds from bus tours here, but if you go early, you should be able to beat the heat and the worst of the lines. You can hire a guide right on-site, or you can opt for an audio guide, when available. You’ll want one or the other to make heads or tails of this sprawling palace ruins, the home of the most important of Crete’s kings: King Menos, son of Zeus and Europa.

This marks the spot of the center of Minoan civilization, and should be a must do on any trip to Crete. You’ll want to devote half a day to the site and the museum (more on that in a moment). Knossos’ heyday lasted a whopping two thousand years, until the 5th century AD. The first excavation of the site was conducted in 1878 by Minos Kalokerinos of Herakleion. This was followed by the long-term excavations 1900-1913 and 1922-1930) of the Englishman Sir Arthur Evans, who uncovered virtually the entire palace.

The palace has extensive buildings, workshops, and even an advanced water and sewage system. You can see the remains of a maze of rooms, clay pipes snaking through the ground, an innovative early air-conditioning system, and the oldest road in Europe, at the end of which animal sacrifices were once performed. The ancient theater hosted religious ceremonies, and reconstructions of frescos adorn the walls of the king and queen’s quarters. You can see the king’s actual wooden throne (though be warned, the line can get long, so don’t save this for last) and look out at the expanse of olive trees and countryside.

After seeing the ruins, you’ll want to see the rest of the actual artifacts excavated from the inside (aside from the throne which remains at the site). The Heraklion Archaeological Museum is located about 15 minutes away by car, and is regarded as one of Europe”s most important museums.

The most important collection is the treasures of Minoan civilization, which includes jugs, jewelry, frescos, and religious and everyday objects from Knossos. The address is Xanthoudidou 2, 71202 Heraklion.

You can find street-side dining (sit-down or to-go) in the square adjacent to the museum, and some souvenir-quality shopping.

Want to know the most epic place to stay on Crete, for a luxury vacation? Read on!

Greece history tour: Visiting Delphi with kids

October 22, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Located approximately 2.5 hours’ drive from Athens, Delphi is like another world…a world tucked up in the mountains (yes, mountains!) of the northwest interior. According to mythology, Delphi is called ‘the navel of the world’, and it really does feel like the center of humanity while you’re visiting.

The sanctuary of Delphi, with its most famous oracle, is made even more mysterious and majestic by its stunning scenery. Literally hugging a mountainside, the ruins of Delphi feel otherworldly. Visiting, I can see why artists and creators draw inspiration from it. Side note: did you know that one of the settings for the new Assassin’s Creed Odyssey is set here? The game creators studied the topography and history of Delphi extensively.

The story behind Dephi revolves around Apollo. During pre-history, the site was sacred to Mother Earth and was guarded by the terrible serpent Python, who was later killed by Apollo. Apollo’s sanctuary was built here by Cretans and dates back to the Neolithic period (4000 BC). People experiencing life problems from financial woes to health issues pilgrimaged here to consult the oracle (have their fortunes told) and find answers and balance in this proclaimed ‘center’. They first passed through the marketplace at the base of the slope, where (conveniently) they could buy the tokens and offerings they needed before entering the structure dedicated to Apollo.

As you make your way up just like the pilgrims, the views just get more and more spectacular, and you can see the valley below and even the port and sea. There’s a stadium with a track at the very top (worth the hike) and far below, you can glimpse the remains of the gymnasium and other training facilities of the athletes who came here to compete. It seems that Delphi was part sacred and part festival during its time.

Planning your trip to Delphi:

Get there early, before the sun is at its peak because the site is very exposed and you will get sunburned if you’re not careful. Bring plenty of water, too and allow for time in the small museum after touring the ruins. Make sure your guide, if you opt to have one, is licensed.

You can do Delphi in a day as we did, on one long day trip from Athens (2.5 hours each way, through very pretty countryside), but I recommend staying over at least one night and perhaps two. You can always hire a car with an international drivers license; Greece is easy to drive in. The town of Delphi is just beyond the archeological site, and offers quaint hotels and restaurant with amazing views where they sprawl from the hillsides. The narrow streets are lively with people and there’s plenty of shopping to be had.

You could also stay about 10 minutes back, at the ski town of Arachova. Yes, I said ski town. This region of Greece is situated at 800 meters above sea level, and they do get snow. Even in the off-season, however, Arachova is arguably the cuter of the two towns, with even narrower cobbled streets and upscale shops.

Luxury stay in Athens Greece: Hotel Grande Bretagne

October 15, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

Athens is a sprawling, hot, and bustling city, and if you want to be pampered when you make your way to your accommodations after each long day of sightseeing, make your home the Hotel Grande Bretagne. A Marriott Luxury Collection property, the Bretagne is ideally located in the heart of Syntagma Square, right next to the Parliament. You’ll be wowed the moment you step inside the historic lobby with its high ceilings and elegant decor (this hotel opened in 1874, and oozes that old-style luxury travel experience). I experienced some of the best service I’ve ever had at the Bretagne, from impeccable housekeeping to a very helpful concierge and valet staff.

Standard rooms are on the small side, but they’re luxury all the way, with great views of the city, more high ceilings (only to be found in historic hotels these days) and bathrooms with deep baths as well as shower options. There are 320 rooms and suites, so you have your options. There’s a fully-stocked mini-bar, but I still found room for my bottle of water to keep it cool, and families can ask that the mini-bar be emptied if they’d prefer more space. You also get espresso each morning via a Nespresso machine and bottled water delivered daily, as well as turn-down service.

The landmark hotel has several restaurants on-site, including Winter Garden downstairs (which has a fabulous afternoon tea, if you need a mid-day break) and the Roof Garden Restaurant on the top floor, with open-air seating on the rooftop with stunning views of the Acropolis. Even if you don’t dine here at night, be sure to stop at the rooftop bar for a cocktail. The Roof Garden Restaurant is also the location for their fabulous breakfast buffet (opt for a room rate that includes this, or it will seriously set you back). The full-service buffet includes more continental and hot items than anyone could possibly try in several mornings, and there’s a menu of options as well.

The outdoor pool is located one floor down, with more great views and another bar with small plates and drinks (though I found that it tended to close earlier than its 8 pm posted time during my visit). There’s a large exercise facility and indoor pool on the bottom level of the hotel, which also houses the full spa and salon. Sadly, I didn’t get a chance to try the spa.

The benefits of staying at the Bretagne went beyond the comfort of terry bathrobes and slippers laid out each evening: the location was convenient to everything in the city center, and the valet staff makes it so easy to get a cab and get directions to anywhere. The lobby makes for an instant respite each time you enter it, and a cool dip in the pool is exactly what’s needed after touring antiquities.

Room rates: Room rates hover at about 600EU per night, so this is definitely a luxury splurge stay. See below for additional options for other budgets.

Address: 1 Vasimeos Georgiou A, Syntagma Square

Other good hotels centrally-located for families:

Wyndham Grand: located about a 10-minute cab ride from Syntagma Square, further from the Acropolis but still with great views, and usually around 150-180 EU.

Royal Olympic: Directly across from the Temple of Zeus, in a very convenient downtown location, around 250 EU.

Both of these options have lovely rooftop restaurants with views of the Acropolis (and the Olympic also has great views of the Temple of Zeus, as well).

Portugal with kids: Martinhal Cascais review

May 16, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’re visiting Portugal with kids, you’ll certainly be spending multiple days in Lisbon. Read our tips for Lisbon here. When you need a reprieve from city touring, head to the nearby seaside town of Cascais, where Martinhal Cascais is a resort destination in and of itself.

Most resorts designated as ‘kid-friendly’ or ‘family-centric’ are loud and overstimulating. Martinhal Cascais completely defies this expectation and greets parents with serenity and five-star luxury. Kids are welcomed and celebrated here—every aspect of Martinhal Cascais has kids in mind—but not at the expense of adults. Instead, this property remains elegant and calming while also maintaining a relaxed vibe.

Martinhal Cascais review:

Indoor/outdoor kid-friendly spa pool

Upon check-in, kids are greeted with goodie bags with stuffed (plush) toys, hats, ping-pong sets and the like. Parents are given the run-down of the resort: suites come as either half board (breakfast and one additional meal per day included) or full board (all three meals per day included), allowing you to create a fully inclusive experience. Or, you can opt out of any included meals, and pay a la carte (suites often include fridges and wet bars and villas include full kitchens).

We suggesting visiting Martinhal Cascais mid-vacation, and using this posh, peaceful property for some much needed R&R. Rooms and suites vary, but in general, the property has 60+ deluxe rooms that sleep four, with either pull-out bunk beds or sofa pullouts) and four suites (with a slider door division between bed and sofa pullout).

Martinhal bunks in most rooms (they fold up in the daytime!)

All rooms have kid-friendly features such as potty chairs, high chairs, and baby proofing, and additional gear such as bottle warmers or cots (cribs) can be requested. Twelve stand-alone villas line the side of the property, six of which sleep six instead of the standard four). However, these villas are awkward to reach; even though they’re adjacent to the playground area, a fence necessitates going around via road each time you come and go). Unless you really need the space for six, I suggest a suite in the main resort building or a deluxe room instead.

Martinhal villas

Bathrooms are gorgeous and feature oversized tubs and step-in showers. All rooms are bright and airy with sleek glass at every turn (but plenty of shades for when you need them). Most if not all have very spacious balconies or patios with outdoor furniture.

Most meals are had in the main dining space downstairs, which is where families meet for the breakfast buffet serving all manner of hot dishes (eggs, breakfast meats, pancakes), a wide variety of gourmet cheese and cut meats, breads, croissant and pastry, cereals, granola, and yogurt, fruit, and freshly-squeezed fruit juices. Mimosas are available for adults, as well as anything else you care to order from your server. Even the honey is presented in an actual comb, and cheese wheels are hand-cut on-site. A full, leisurely and gourmet dinner meal is served here as well, at indoor and outdoor patio seating. Lest you think this sounds pretty much awful with young kids in tow, fear not: a small playroom is located to one side of the dining room, staffed so you can let kids play there without leaving your own meal to get cold.

In fact, throughout the property, what I deemed ‘roaming nannies’ are always at-hand, ready to step in and entertain your children while you relax, read a book, eat a meal, or simply have a conversation. This is as amazing as it sounds. If you want to eat elsewhere for a change of pace from the dining room, the M Bar is located above the kids’ club, and offers a more casual (yet still delicious) lunch and dinner menu. Parents can opt for a balcony seat and watch their kids play on the playground below, or make use of the kids’ club or one of those useful roaming staff members. There’s a full bar here as well, as well as a lobby bar located by the dining room.

Martinhal Cascais kids’ club

The spa books appointments for adults as well as ‘mom and me’ and ‘dad and me’ type treatments for kids, and the additional spa facilities, including the indoor pool, hot tub and sauna and the smaller outdoor pool and lounge deck are all open to kids (accompanied by parents). This is a great opportunity to teach children about quiet indoor voices and how to behave in a spa-like environment without anyone fussing at them to leave.

I cannot emphasize enough how calming the entire property feels. Parents can truly have a restful holiday without sacrificing any of the amenities kids crave. I really don’t know how they achieve this, but it’s magic.

Outdoor pool hangout (seasonal)

What to do on site and off:

On-site, families will find a plethora of activities. The kids’ club welcomes kids up to age 12 (and this is flexible for older siblings) and baby club (for infants) are both fully-staffed and open daily. They’re located across the lawn from the suites adjacent to an impressive climbing structure, kid-sized zip lines, an in-ground trampoline and an in-ground air mattress for jumping. Right outside the brightly-lit indoor kids’ club and baby club lies an indoor heated pool (housed under a plastic dome to keep the air very warm inside).

indoor kids’ pool

Kids can be served meals in the club, or parents can check them in and out at will. Parents can also join their kids in the pool area, or in a separate play around for family use. Across the grounds, a seasonal outdoor pool complex with zero-depth entry beckons in the summer months, and all year-round, the Martinhal spa offers an additional indoor/outdoor pool where kids are welcome. Additional outdoor lounging areas and play structures are dotted across the resort grounds. If all this isn’t enough, there is also a turf futsal (soccer) field and bike rentals on-site (starting around 15 Euro for two-hour rentals…helmets available).

just part of the outdoor playground

When you’re ready to explore further afield, the beautiful Portuguese coastline awaits, easily accessible by foot or bike from Martinhal: just navigate 2-3 blocks to the coastline, then enjoy the well-maintained bike and pedestrian path that hugs the ocean. This is a rocky section of coastline, so parents of young kids will want to take care, but the views are spectacular. If you take the path left from the resort, you’ll end up in the town of Cascais (about 2 km), where multiple sand beaches and a marina await. Head in the opposite direction and a slightly longer bike ride or walk will take you to a more rugged, windy beach mostly used for surfing and kite surfing.

Cascais

It’s well worth spending an afternoon or two at Cascais, enjoying the historic town center and beaches. Several fortresses still perch on the rocky cliffside, including Cidadela Palace of Cascais that now serves as a multi-use space for restaurants and museums near town. En route, you’ll also pass by the Santa Maria lighthouse and Boca do Inferno, a dramatic, gaping cliffside attraction where kids can peer down at the sea from bridges and paths.

Let the kids play in Marechal Carmona Park, then walk the main pedestrian street of Cascais or play on the beaches. Four are located past the marina area, including Pescadores, Rainha, Conceicao and Duquesa. We think Conceicao is the largest, offering lounge chairs to rent to settle in. In town, several inviting rooftop bars offer homemade pitchers of sangria should you find yourself kid-free (or have brought plenty of kid-friendly snacks to keep little ones happy).

How to get here: TAP Portugal is the way to go, with direct flights now from New York and Boston. They even have stop-over options for travelers who can only spend a few days.

Disclosure: I experienced Martinhal Cascais as a guest of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

12 reasons to explore Germany’s Romantic Road

January 5, 2018 By Amy Hagstrom

We write regularly about beautiful road trips exploring the US or some of the best places in Europe. Today we are going to show you the ultimate European trend related to road trip and experience you won’t forget! We are talking about Germany’s Romantic Road. We had the chance to try it and now we are going to share with you, our top 12 reasons to go for it! Let’s do this!

1. It is a scenic path. Road tripping the Romantic Road will offer you incredible views on a trip to remember!

2. You will learn something more about Germany from a unique perspective. Driving through Bavaria will give you glimpses of the real life, the local culture and typical cuisine.

3. Exploring the country in an adventurous and free mode. After hiring your car, you will be able to explore the country at your own pace and stopping whenever wherever you want.

4. Save money on a car hire. Road tripping is convenient and fun! We used holidayautos.com to compare the best deals and solutions. It was so easy to use we had the best time. We will use it again for our next trip!

5. You can go for tasting tours. From beer to wine there are plenty of options to drink something local while exploring the best-hidden gems of this area.

6. Eating some typical delicious dishes. With this road trip, you will enjoy the most traditional culinary art of the country eating the best meat and the best desserts of your life!

7. Having a yummy snack on the road. Don’t forget to try Schneebälle, super yummy delicious meals to eat on the go for your next adventure!

8. You will marvel at the architecture. Each little city you will stop by will offer you some incredible design to appreciate the art and the style of this region.

9. Full immersing into beautiful natural landscapes. Road tripping is terrific to stop by once you spot someplace you need to visit. While driving through Bavaria, you will find so many different beautiful places for incredible pics and some time to remember.

10. You will see fairy-tale like castles IRL! You cannot miss the chance to stop at beautiful iconic Neuschwanstein, the famous castle inspiring the Disney Logo. What an experience!

11. Signals are so easy to follow. We know how tricky could sound a road trip like this one but, trust us when we tell you signs are all over the road and they are so easy to follow you won’t need your GPS!

12. Accommodations are to die for! For your stay consider stopping at one of the incredible good-looking house you will encounter on your way. They look like dollhouses, and they will give you a unique touch to your stay too!

These are the best 12 reasons why you should go for a Germany’s Romantic Road trip! We already know you are going to love it! So get ready and explore this beautiful area!

Guide to Iceland national parks

July 28, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Nearly ALL of Iceland looks like a national park, so families can’t go wrong finding beautiful outdoor experiences on an Iceland vacation with kids. But Iceland national parks do pack in a lot of interesting natural features you won’t want to miss. Here’s what to see in each.

Þingvellir National Park:

Þingvellir is easily accessed from Reykjavik, and is located on the Golden Circle, so expect to share space with plenty of tour buses. However, it’s absolutely worth the trip. Start with the main attractions: the rich Viking history in various sites and the location where you can see the shifting of the tectonic plates (over the course of millions of years). There are several walking paths here (we wouldn’t quite call them hikes), the largest of which will take you up to a viewpoint (which is where they put the visitor center and parking lot, disappointingly) where you can see the deep ravines cut into the landscape. Taking the other paths, you can see Drekkingarhylur pool, the site where women were once drowned for offenses such as adultery, and the waterfall Oxararfoss.

Next, explore the valley and lake, where you’ll see the historic sites, including one of Iceland’s first churches. Along the Oxara River, you can find the ruins of Viking camps, called budir.

Top extra activity outside the park: Laugarvanshellir Cave People Tour

This lovely tour is still unknown to most tourists (as its new in 2017). Located outside the park on 365 toward Laugarvatn, you’ll see the little house (think hobbit house) cut into the hillside before you arrive at the small parking lot. Go into the tent that houses a small tea room to purchase a tour, which is led by an enthusiastic guide. In fact, days later, our kids commented he was their ‘favorite Icelander they’d met’. The tour takes about 40 minutes, and takes you up the hillside to see the cave an Icelander couple made into a rudimentary home at the turn of the 20th century. Later, another couple inhabited it for a short time. The single room house is historically restored, and includes a sheep barn and cow barn built into the rock. While it’s interesting the see the house, the story behind it is even more fascinating; this really is a story of Icelandic pioneering. Learn more at http://www.thecavepeople.is

Vatnajokulsthjodgardur National Park:

This was our favorite Icelandic national park, thanks to its dramatic volcanic history and glacier. The visitor center at Skaftafell has a lot of good information: start here and pick a day hike to try. We opted for a loop of about 6 km that took us high up the mountain to spectacular views of Iceland’s largest glacier, Skaftafellsjokull, then cut along a high ridgeline to dip back down to stunning Skaftafoss (certainly a highlight of the park). You can opt for shorter hikes, or longer ones, but for any length, be sure to pack many layers for all types of weather, as you’ll be completely exposed to the elements (as you are in most of Iceland).

Glacier tour operations are located in the parking lot of the visitor center, which can take you onto the surface of the glacier for about $40-60 per person. You are not permitted to walk on the glacier without a guide, as fissures and cracks can be unpredictable. We opted to skip the glacier tour and were satisfied with our excellent views via the hike.

This national park is pretty massive, and offers plenty of F-road goodness for those venturing north, but families can certainly get a feel for the area from the southernmost Skaftafell entrance without venturing beyond Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon.

Top extra activity outside the park: LAVA Centre

Before you enter the national park, stop at the brand new LAVA Centre located at Hvolsvollur. This highly interactive, tech-heavy museum answered a lot of our questions about the geothermal and volcanic nature of the region, which really helped us understand the lava fields, glaciers, and volcanos we saw the following days. The fairly steep entry price (still on par with entry to other museums we visited) is well worth it: get the family pass if it applies to you, to save some money.

The museum is divided into several rooms you walk through in order, each with hands-on activities and digital displays. It’s truly hard to describe how great these exhibits are, but I’ll try: one room mimics the properties of ash, giving you a taste of how it feels to be blinded by it in an eruption, and another room allows you to spin a giant globe, showing the shifting of tectonic plates over millions of years. Start with the 15 minute film and follow the map through the rooms from there. All displays are in English.

Snæfellsjökull National Park:

Located on the west side of Iceland on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, Snæfellsjökull features a big daddy volcano (unfortunately covered in cloud during our visit), as well as black sand beaches with interesting rock formations, caves and lava tubes, and cinder cones. The park is located past the fishing village of Olafsvik, with a visitor center located at the space ship-looking lighthouse about three-fourths of the way through the park. See great views of the ocean and sea stacks here, then book a cave tour a few meters down the road. If you don’t want to spend the money (it’s not cheap), do as we did and take the short self-guided tour of the main cave entrance. All around the cave are smaller lava tubes you can (but probably shouldn’t) climb into.

There’s also a well-marked cinder cone in the park, which is an easy climb with metal steps, and affords great views. We loved that at the top, a circular plaque names all the nearby mountains and volcanoes so you can identify each one.

Top extra activity outside the park: Settlement Center

At the bottom of the peninsula, you’ll first enter Borgarnes on 60. Go to the Settlement Center, one of the best museums in the region. It’s located by the harbor in a warehouse, but inside, you’ll see the history of the Icelandic settlement era and learn more about its famed Sagas.

Guide to Paris Christmas markets

November 30, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

One of our favorite memories of a Paris Christmas was touring the many Paris Christmas markets across the city. Some Christmas markets pop up fairly spontaneously from year to year, but there are a few staples you’ll find to be consistent. Here’s where to go to find Paris Christmas markets, plus tips for best enjoyment of these seasonal wonders.

Top Paris Christmas markets:

The biggies each year are as follows (plus how to get there):

The Concorde area: this largest Christmas market is located at the Concorde, right in the shadow of the seasonal ferris wheel (built for the World’s Fair). It’s at the end of the famous Champs- Élysées, so if you’re already walking down this to see the holiday lights and decor, you’ll end up here.
Under the Eiffel Tower: this was our favorite Christmas market, as it wasn’t too big and wasn’t too small. And the ambiance is amazing under the tower, especially when it sparkles on the hour at night. We visited this market before and after going to the top of the tower.
In the Montmartre area: this market is a bit more ‘working class’, with some touristy stuff tossed in, located under the shadow of Sacre Coeur. Take the metro to the Chateau Rogue stop, or tack this visit on to a tour of Sacre Coeur. You can take the tram up the hill, too.

Tips for making the most of the Paris Christmas markets:

Plan on making a meal of it: We purposely planned our mealtimes around Christmas markets. This is a cheap and delicious way to eat in Paris during the holiday season. At every Christmas market, we could find the staples: crepes, Belgian waffles, baguettes toasted with melted cheese, mulled wine, hot chocolate, and all sorts of candies and nuts.
Look for smaller markets: We found a fun yet small Christmas market across the Seine from Notre Dame, by the Latin Quarter. It was only a dozen or so huts, but Santa Claus was there without a line, and the vendors were among the most friendly.

Bring cash: at most huts, you’ll need to pay in cash. Give kids coins to spend on their own.
Shop for Christmasy souvenirs: During our Christmas visit, we decided to play a game of ‘secret Santa’ within our family. Each family member bought little trinkets and treats at Christmas markets for another member of the family. We had a lot of fun.

Look for ice skating rinks: Many Christmas markets include small ice skating rinks. Below the Eiffel Tower, the rink was actually a loop, similar to a track, which skaters used as though on a trail. If you combine an Eiffel Tower Christmas market trip with a ride up the tower, stop and skate at the 1st floor landing ON the tower. It’s free!
Try the vin chaud: This mulled wine may not be made with the highest quality wine, but it’s piping hot and seasoned nicely. For kids, the chocolat chaud is the way to go.
Look for public restrooms: Restrooms are in short supply in Paris, but we always found one at major Christmas markets.
Almost all Paris Christmas markets open the third week of November and close January 1. Hours are generally noon to 10 pm.

What is your favorite Paris Christmas market?

How to visit the Paris catacombs with kids

October 24, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

One attraction near the top of my teen’s list of things to do in Paris was the Paris Catacombs. This underground network lies in the heart of the city, spanning two km. It’s creepy and fascinating and toured completely on one’s own, unless you opt for a guide. We recommend it, as the actual visit only takes about 45 minutes and can easily be added to a Paris itinerary with teens or older kids, but there are many things to know ahead of time to make your day run smoothly. Here’s how to visit the Paris catacombs with kids:

You can start on the catacombs’ official website, which will tell you the essential details, but it won’t tell you the number one bit of information you need: to tour, you’ll be given a timed ticket, which involves two different lines and waiting times unless you either 1. buy online, or 2. get there right at opening.

We did not buy ahead of time OR get there early, and this was the process:

Start in a queue to get your timed ticket. You don’t pay at this time. It will be confusing to figure out where this line is or where it starts, as the entrance to the catacombs looks like a boarding line for an airplane…lots of people merging and clustering without a clear queue. Ask any of the officials for the timed ticket line until you find it.
When you get to the front of this line (on our visit, this took about 30 minutes), you’ll be given a slip of paper saying what time to come back. We were there on a pretty busy day and our timed ticket was for 3 hours later. Note: if you arrive in the later part of the afternoon, you’ll probably be told to come back the next day.
When you come back at your timed ticket hour, you will need to show the slip to the official at the front of the entrance and he or she will direct you vaguely in the direction of a vague line. They let in about 50 people at a time (for a total of 200 or so in the catacomb network at once), so you’ll basically be grouping with all the other people who have the same time as you. The wait isn’t long; maybe another 15-20 minutes.

Note: don’t try to come AFTER your time indicated. We were 30 minutes late, and it took some persistence to be allowed in.

Once inside, you’ll pay at the counter and descend the staircase to the underground level. Once there, you’re on your own to walk the (quite long) distance through an underground tunnel to where to opens out into a wider space. Here, you’ll see some signage talking about the history of the catacombs, then the catacombs themselves.

What to expect in the catacombs:

Once you’re in the catacombs themselves, there’s no signage or explanations of anything, apart from a few very generalized dates. Stacked bones line the walkways, primarily made up of femurs, tibias, and skulls. Some are in interesting patterns and geometric shapes, but most are just lining the walkway like a wall. Certainly, it’s an interesting sight, especially for kids and teens but they are human remains, which gives them a decidedly creepy tone. Parents will need to use judgement as to whether their kids are ready for this.

I wished there was more explanation of the remains, but the point made is that these are unknown people, moved here as needed to make room elsewhere. Most of the remains are from the era of plagues when mass graves were necessary. At least, that’s as much as we could put together with little information. If this is a site and subject that interests you greatly, I advise booking a private tour. I know Viator.com has one.

When you arrive at the catacombs, whether you have timed tickets from booking online or need to stand in the queue for timed tickets, expect a certain level of chaos. The official website does not explain the ticketing process well (or at all, really), so many visitors are confused and frustrated. Of course, this would be simple to fix, but when we heard a visitor suggest information be placed on the website, the ticket operator simply chuckled. I guess it will never happen.

A few more logistics:

The stairs both going down and coming up from the catacombs are steep and long. There is no alternative, such as an elevator. Needless to say, this site is not handicap-friendly.
The temperature is 14 degrees C, so wear a light sweater or coat.
There is no bathroom or anywhere to store a backpack.

Visitor numbers are restricted to 200 at any time. Admission may be delayed for a short time during busy periods.

Cost and hours:

Open daily from 10am to 8pm, except Mondays and some public holidays. Last admission: 7pm. To buy tickets online, try this website. Adults are €12, kids under 18 are free.

Directions:

The catacombs are located at 1, avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy – 75014 Paris. You’ll want to take Metro line 4 to the Cité stop.

Best restaurants in Rome for non-foodies (plus eating in Italy tips):

June 6, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Eating in Italy? You’re in for a treat! After eating our way through the country, I am here for you with tips for dining in Italy with kids, plus our picks for the best restaurants in Rome. Note: for Florence dining recommendations, read our Three Days in Florence with Kids article.

Best restaurants in Rome (by category):

Pizza:

Pizza Forum: This restaurant has a boring name, and looks and sounds touristy, but was recommended to us by our Italian tour guide. She was not wrong. In fact, while it’s located in a very touristy zone near the Forum, it was filling up with locals when we got there at 2 pm.

Panettoni: Located in the Trastevere area, we thought Panettoni served the best of the traditional Roman variety of pizza: it was light, thin, and flavorful.

Honestly, every other pizzeria in Rome calls itself the best. (Not unlike New York City pizza joints, actually.) Just about anywhere, you’ll find good pizza, especially if you stick to the basics. Really. Enjoy.

Trattorias:

Armando al Pantheon: this little place is big on ambiance, in a perfect location for dining after an evening of souvenir shopping around the Pantheon. You can even visit Piazza Navona first, then dip out of that expensive dining area to pay much less for better food here.

Ristorante Pizzeria Imperiale (Largo Corrado Ricci, 37, by Coloseum): Another spot along the busy Colosseum and Forum area, this place as a nice outdoor patio (heated in winter), great seafood dishes, and above average pizza.

Cuccagna 14 (Via della Cuccagna): This bright and cheery trattoria just outside of Piazza Navona won us over with it’s twinkling lights and warm ambiance. Their bruschetta and antipasto was sourced completely by a local farm, and their lasagna was to die for.

Upscale Trattorias:

Il Bacaro: A super-friendly place near the Pantheon, we had great antipasto here and inventive second courses.

Ad Hoc: this cozy little hole-in-the-wall wine bar off Piazza Populo isn’t great for big families, but they can easily accommodate a group of four or less. (I’m sure they can accommodate more, but it would be a squeeze for you and the other diners.)

Faciolaro Ristorante Pizzeria (via dei Pastini by Pantheon): We ate one of our favorite meals here on New Year’s Eve. The grilled steak was a group favorite, and I loved the homemade pasta and excellent artichokes. Their open kitchen is fun, too…ask to sit in the dining area near it.

Gelato, coffee, and dessert:

There’s a little cafe right on the corner of the Jewish Ghetto by Piazza Venicia that serves excellent pastry and macchiato. Ask for the puff pastry with whipped cream. They’ll slice it for you on the spot, fill it with cream, and drizzle it with chocolate.

Cremeria Monteforte: I first found this gelato hot-spot ten years ago on my first trip to Rome. It was so good, I came back for more (Rick Steves swears by it, too). It’s located directly on the piazza of the Pantheon. Sit outside and eat with a view!

Come il Latte (Via Silvio Spaventa, 24): this place by Repubblica has some of the most authentic and homemade gelato in Rome. Plus, you can get flavored whipped cream on top.

Venchi: There are actually many Venchi shops across Italy, and the brand is a solid pick. Look for flowing chocolat calda (hot chocolate) and chocolate candies as well. We found one by the Spanish Steps, but youll see them elsewhere, too.

Note: Right off Piazza Navona, there’s a very average gelato shop with a very extraordinary server. I wish I could remember the name of the place, but it’s located on the far end of the piazza. We assume the server was the owner, because he was very animated, enthusiastic, and welcoming. He joked with the kids, added extra scoops to cones, and smiled at everyone who came in. This older gentleman made our night!

Rome dining tips:

Finding exact restaurant recommendations can be frustrating, since the streets are not in a grid pattern and you’ll likely be meandering until you’re hungry. Our rule of thumb: once you’ve found any major attraction or piazza, enjoy it, then walk one block down any connecting street for the best dining options. The restaurants directly on the piazzas will be higher priced and probably touristy, but just a matter of yards away, smaller, tucked away establishments beckon. This is your sweet spot.

Don’t overlook specialty stores and groceries. Look for meat and cheese counters where you can put together your own antipasto plate to eat at home, or make a picnic out of foods at pasta shops and wine bars.

Florence tips:

Florence and the great Tuscany region is known for their beef and spinach as well as their wine. If you order something in the ‘Florentine style’, it’s likely with spinach. And this is not the canned PopEye variety…you’re in for a treat. If ordering steak, as my teens love to do, be sure to ask how big it actually is. In Florence, it’s often sold (even in restaurants) by the kilogram. It’s not unusual for the steak to be the size of the dinner plate. Enjoy!

Florence can get very touristy, but head over the Ponte Vecchio and you’ll be in fewer crowds and find better prices. Enjoy afternoon gelato, and you may get away with simple antipasto in your room for a the kids’ dinner hour. There’s an upscale grocery store with an excellent cheese and meat counter located right over the bridge. Turn left at the second street and look for the blue sign.

General tips for eating in Italy:

During our trip through Florence, Pisa, Rome, and Naples, we found the following to be true nearly everywhere:

Almost all restaurants around tourist areas will provide menus or menu boards out front. Look through prices before you’re pressured to go in. Primi or pasta courses in good trattorias will be in the 8-12 euro per person range. Secondi courses can reach 20-30 euros per person. There’s no need to order both a first and second course. We liked to order one antipasto plate for the table (see appetizer tip below) and one plate (primi, secondi, or pizza) per person.
Head to trattorias (cafes, casual) but don’t be afraid to venture into osterias (wine bars, pubs). Both are kid-friendly. In fact, just about everything is kid-friendly when it comes to the Italian food scene.
When ordering, beware of saying yes to suggested appetizers ‘for the table’. In Italy, this often means one per every person at the table (with the price multiplied accordingly). We made this mistake at a adorable trattoria near Piazza Navona when we ordered the suggested bruccetta. It was a happy mistake, as the plate was delicious, but still cost us an extra 25 euros.
Buy water for the table by the liter. Ditto for wine, if you’re on a budget. Water doesn’t come to the table automatically or complimentarily. Ordering it per person can be up to 2,50 euro a glass. Alternatively, a liter of water (size of an extra large water bottle) is usually around 3,50. We usually buy a few of these for the table, since we’re used to drinking a lot of water with our meals.
Wine is cheap and plentiful. Enjoy. We like to get a half liter or liter for the table, depending on how many adults will be drinking. Note for parents of teens: the legal drinking age is 16 (and younger kids will not be frowned upon for drinking wine either, FYI).
Soda, on the other hand, is often just as expensive as wine, and sometimes as expensive as water. When we want soda, which isn’t too often, we buy it by the liter in the grocery store, and let the kids drink it during pre-dinner ‘aperitif’.
So what IS aperitif? This is the Italian version of happy hour, but more refined. It’s usually between 6 pm and 8 pm, and involves wine or a cocktail intended to open the digestive track for the later dinner meal. It often comes with antipasto-type dishes. We found that with kids in tow, we didn’t bother going out for aperitif, but we did enjoy our own version in our rental apartment. We bought cheese, crackers, and salami in the grocery store, and paired them with wine for mom and dad and soda or juice for the kids. This tided us over until 8 pm or later for dinner out.
In and around the tourist hot spots in Rome and Florence, you’ll be hard-pressed to find restaurant staff who do not speak enough English to get you by. Even the less touristy establishments can help you pick out what you want to eat, and without exception, we found all restaurants to be friendly to us as Americans bumbling with our Italian.

What are your top tips for dining in Italy? I’d love to hear them!

Normandy in a day: What to see with 12 hours by car

May 23, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

If you can carve out a free day during a visit to Paris, it’s well-worth your time to explore Normandy. While this region of France deserves a week or more of your attention, families can hit some highlights with just a day. We’ve written about taking kids on a D-Day site tour from Paris with Viator, and while I highly recommend going this route if you can’t rent a car, it does take longer to visit Normandy by bus, and there will be things you will wish you had the freedom to explore. Plus, you can go further afield by car, exploring as far as the western coast.

Normandy in a day…start with D-Day sites:

By exploring Normandy by car, on your own, you’ll definitely save time. From the center of Paris, it takes about 2.5 hours to reach Caen, which we consider the biggest metropolis within Normandy. You’ll want to stop here to check out the excellent Caen-Normandie Memorial museum. Located at the site of a German bunker and stronghold during the French occupation, this modern museum covers WWII very much in depth, from pre-war time through the liberation.

Note: It does cover the holocaust in detail, including Jewish ghettos and camps, so prepare children. In fact, I’d recommend this whole tour only to families with kids age 10 and up. If you want to skip sections: It’s hard to bypass details because exhibits are intermixed, but the area downstairs towards the end of the hall have the most holocaust stories. The violence of the D-Day battles are much less graphic, even in the film.

From Caen, you’re only about 30 minutes away from D-Day beaches and cemeteries, and the route from here is decidedly more picturesque (from Paris to Caen, you’re on the interstate). Start by driving to Pointe du Hoc, which will land you right on the coastline. From there, you can easily drive along the coast to Omaha Beach, and Juno Beach, stopping at the national cemetery as well (located at Omaha). The route is charming, with villages to stop and explore and fields and hedgerows (though it’s good to remember that these hedgerows were sites of one-on-one type battles during the war). At the beaches, it’s permitted to walk along the sand and even wade in the surf; it feels a bit odd to do so given the sobering history of the area, but you’ll also need a break from the museums and exhibits to get fresh air and let kids play a bit.

Seeing Mont St. Michel:

If you’re truly ambitious, or have the luxury of an overnight in Normandy, head along the Normandy coastline southwest to Mont St. Michel. (As an alternative, you can easily get to Mont St. Michel from Caen if you’re not touring D-Day sites.)

If you have young kids, I’d recommend seeing Mont St. Michel perhaps in place of D-Day sites, as this island fortress resembles a fairy tale castle like no other. An abbey built by monks in the 6th century, Mont St. Michel and the surrounding village is touristy now, but somehow still feels authentic. When arriving by car (rather than tour bus), park in the car lot and take a provided shuttle to the entrance. Be sure to get an audio guide if not a tour guide; you’ll miss a lot of the history otherwise.

The best parts of Mont St. Michel to kids is the maze-like hallways and tunnels through the abbey, and the ‘mudflats’ that surround it. This squishy, muddy sand is very fun to play in (bring rain boots if you have that ability). You can dine anywhere in town, though you’ll be paying tourist prices (but the seafood is so good, you won’t care).

The drive from Mont St. Michel back to Paris is about 3.5 hours, so you’ll add an hour to your drive ‘home’. Realistically, you’ll need to decide between D-Day beaches and Mont St. Michel, or stay overnight in Caen to see both.

What you’ll lose and gain by road tripping to Normandy on your own:

You’ll lose a ready-made tour guide: our Viator.com tour guide during our Normandy trip by bus really helped us all grasp the history and significance of the area. If you go solo, be sure to pick up a good guidebook, and prepare kids ahead of time.
You’ll gain a bit of stress: No doubt about it, it’s nice to have someone else navigate and drive, especially on foreign roads.
You’ll lose planned stops, including lunch: On our Viator tour, we were able to have a private lunch in a D-Day museum, which was a special experience.
You’ll gain the freedom to explore villages and find a quiet lunch of your own.

This post was written in partnership with Alamo. All opinions remain our own.