Europe with kids - Pitstops for Kids

Ireland Road Trip for Adventurous Families on a Budget

March 2, 2016 By Sharlene Earnshaw

If you’re considering an Ireland vacation you would be forgiven in thinking that the ‘land of saints & scholars’ is all about bus tours, ancient ruins, and pretty scenery. And therefore, maybe a bit dull. You couldn’t be further from the truth! While Ireland is known for its history and stunning views, outdoor enthusiasts come to her emerald shores for world class hiking, cycling, and surfing.

While Ireland is known as an expensive destination, you can do an Ireland road trip on a budget, in comfort, and filled with adventure – and maybe a few castles.

Two Week Ireland Road Trip for Adventurous Families

Though Ireland is a small country, I don’t recommend trying to ‘see it all’ when you visit – you’ll do far too much driving and not enough enjoying. This itinerary leads you in a semi-circular exploration along Ireland’s southern coastline with stops and activities in some of the country’s most beautiful and unspoiled areas. By no means is this itinerary exhaustive – but it is enough to begin laying plans for a magical Ireland vacation!

Tip: to avoid backtracking I recommend booking flights that arrive in Dublin and depart from Shannon (or vice versa), though you can easily arrive and depart from the same airport if costs differ greatly.

Day 1: Arrive in Ireland

The majority of US flights arrive in Dublin in the early morning hours. While your body may be begging for rest it’s important to get on ‘Ireland time’ as quickly as possible – and the best way to do that is to get active! Unless Dublin is a ‘must visit’ for your family, pick up your rental car and bypass the city for the beauty of County Wicklow. Explore the magnificent grounds of Powerscourt Estate – the stunning gardens are a perfect place to let the flight stress melt away. The on-site Avoca Café will fill the gnawing in your tummy with fresh, locally sourced food. Eat at the estate or get a picnic to go and make your way to Ireland’s tallest waterfall where you will also find beautiful hikes and a lovely playground. From Powerscourt continue into the Wicklow Mountains, where you will spend two nights.

Lodging: For a truly budget option, the Glendalough International Youth Hostel is clean and spacious, with family rooms available. Bracken B&B is within walking distance of the Monastic City of Glendalough and the Wicklow Way walking routes.

Tip: Irish B&Bs include the famous (and filling) Irish Breakfast! You’ll be set til mid-afternoon after eating one of these!

Day 2: Explorations in Wicklow

The Monastic City of Glendalough, in the heart of the Wicklow Mountains National Park is well worth your time. Explore the 6^th century settlement and hike along woodland paths to St. Kevin’s cell and the Poulanass Waterfall. Walking trails through the Wicklow Mountains range in length and difficulty, but there is no finer way to spend a nice Irish day.

Tip: Use the interactive map at Ireland Family Vacations to fill in the gaps of your itinerary!

Days 3-4 (option 1)

From Wicklow you have a couple of really great options, depending on where your interest lie. For a wonderful taste of medieval Ireland, venture inland to Kilkenny and Tipperary for 2 nights.

Lodging: The self-catering cottages of Tir na nOg and Brigadoon near Cahir are spacious and perfectly located for exploring.

History abounds here. Kilkenny is a wonderfully walkable city. Kilkenny Castle is the royal palace of your imagination, while the ‘Medieval Mile’ brings the city’s history to life. If sport fishing is of interest, be sure to plan an afternoon at Jerpoint Park, where wild salmon and Brown Trout fill the river.

Sports minded? Then be sure to reserve your spots at The Kilkenny Way, a two hour experience which takes you into the 3000 year old sport of Hurling. Outdoor explorations around the Rock of Cashel, Cahir Castle, Kells Priory, and Jerpoint Abbey – as well as Kilkenny’s food and craft trails will more than fill two days.

Days 3-4 (option 2)

If Blarney Castle is on your ‘must see’ list, drop south to County Cork from Glendalough. If you’ve a taste for whiskey be sure to stop at Midleton for the Jameson Whiskey Experience. Don’t worry- it’s family friendly.

Any animal lovers in the family? Fota Wildlife Park is definitely worth a stop. The 70 acre wildlife park is open air, no thick glass walls between you and the animals.

Tip: The VIP Family Experience is well worth the splurge if you’ve a budding zoologist!

Lodging: The White House Blarney is perfectly placed for touring this area. Be sure to enquire about the 25% children’s discount. For an ocean view, cliff walk, and easy access to Blue Flag Garryvoe Beach choose Castle Farm, just north of Cork City.

Blarney Castle deserves half a day as the extensive gardens- including the fascinating Poison Garden and the Rock Close- are incredible. Plan a visit to the seaside town of Kinsale. Arrive early enough for a Historic Stroll before heading out on a tour of the bay, where you’ll get a great overview of the seaside walks. Don’t leave Kinsale without eating- it’s known as the ‘foodie capital of Ireland’.

Days 5-7

Didn’t make it into Cork City yet? Do that before heading to West Cork. Be sure to stop at the English Market for a few meal necessities or visit Cobh, the last port of call of the Titanic.

Lodging: Book a Luxury or Family Pod at Top of the Rock Pod Pairc. Enjoy the fun farm animals, evenings by the fire pit, and stunning location. Luxury pods have a small kitchenette while the walking centre features a full, shared kitchen. Need a bit more space? Consider a cabin at Waterfall Alpaca Farm.

Outdoor activities abound here! Local walks include the Pilgrim’s Way and the Alpaca Waterfall Walk. Farther afield the incredible Sheep’s Head Peninsula and Mizen Head, the most southerly point in Ireland, are spectacular. In nearby Bantry you will find horseback riding, whale watching, kayaking, and departure points for local islands.

Days 8-10

Leaving Cork you’ll enter ‘The Kingdom’ of County Kerry. You’ll soon see why most Ireland itineraries include a few days here!

Lodging: Fáilte Hostel in the charming village of Kenmare has spacious family rooms and a 1:30am curfew has rowdy guests bunking elsewhere. Salmon Leap Farm, a bit closer to Killarney, can arrange local activities including horse trekking, angling, guided walks, angling, and guided hill walking.

Famed for the spectacular Ring of Kerry, Killarney is a tourist hot spot. And you’ll see why as there is so much to do. Jaunting cart rides here are wonderful- choose a ride in Killarney National Park or the Gap of Dunloe- the jarveys are filled with stories; it’s up to you to decipher the truth from the blarney!

Plan a day to explore either the Ring of Kerry or the Dingle Peninsula. Both are wonderful, filled with history, hikes, and hidden beaches. For a truly exhilarating activity, try coasteering, which includes rock climbing, caving, and jumping into the ocean (thankfully you’ll have a wetsuit!)

Looking for adventures a bit less adrenaline-filled? Do a bit of surfing on Inch Beach, go underground at Crag Cave, fly a hawk at Killarney Falconry, or spend the day hiking in Killarney National Park. The farthest reaches of the Dingle Peninsula are a Gaeltacht, where Irish is still spoken. In town many of the shops have a small signs stating Gaelige á labhairt anseo – Irish spoken here.

Days 11-13

It’s time for the final leg of your Irish adventure, and we’ll end in fine style in County Clare. You have your choice of routes- either through Limerick city (if so, do plan to spend an afternoon at Bunratty Castle & Folk Park) or along the coast via Shannon Ferry.

Lodging: Doolin Hostel is perfectly located for touring the west of Ireland. Spacious family rooms and a policy against hen & stag parties guarantee a peaceful stay.

From Doolin it feels as if all of Ireland is at your feet. Walk along the crashing Atlantic Ocean to the Cliffs of Moher. Spend days exploring the Burren – guided and self-guided walks offer everything from foraging to archeology to ancient lore. And don’t miss the Burren Food Trail! Most locations – farms, gardens, bakeries, creameries, and restaurants- welcome visitors to learn about their local offerings and get a taste.

The Aran Islands, another Gaeltacht, are a short boat ride from Doolin Pier and a terrific day trip for walking or cycling. Your cruise back to Doolin may even include a side trip to the base of the Cliffs of Moher.

Active adventures are found a bit further south in Lahinch where Lahinch Adventures offers surfing, rock climbing, archery, cycling, kayaking, and hill walking.

If you’ve not yet visited a traditional Irish Pub for live music, Doolin is the place to do it. And go ahead and take the kids – an evening at the public house is a family friendly activity!

Day 14

Your flight leaves today. It’s difficult to say goodbye to Ireland, but hopefully you’re taking home lasting memories and a desire to return!

Note: Not including Northern Ireland in this itinerary was quite deliberate. As ‘the North’ is part of the UK costs are 2-3 times higher there due to the exchange rate and can really do damage to a budget.

About the author: Jody Halsted has been traveling across Ireland for over a decade with her own children, discovering the most family friendly sites and activities on the tourist trail and off. Dedicated to Ireland family travel, her website Ireland Family Vacations, provides exceptional advice for a magical Ireland vacation. For families looking for a perfectly tailored Ireland vacation, Jody offers Ireland vacation coaching, working with your family to help you choose the perfect lodging, destinations, and activities to fit your budget, interests, and expectations.

Where to eat in Paris with kids…if you’re not a foodie

February 24, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

I will admit that before we arrived in the City of Lights, I was intimidated by the Paris dining scene. We don’t speak much French, we’re not foodies, and we don’t like snails (sorry). After spending five days in Paris with kids, well, I’m still intimidated by the Paris dining scene, but we ate there happily anyway. Here’s where to eat in Paris…and how.

Hit up patisseries for breakfasts:

And snacks. And maybe lunch. We loved these French bakeries, which seemed to be on every corner in Paris, no matter which arrisondment we found ourselves in. Baguettes of crusty French bread cost less than €1, and French pastries, including eclairs and chocolate croissants (pain au chocolat) are about the same price. I guess it’s similar to going to a donut shop for breakfast every morning, but seems so much classier. And yummier. Our favorite bakery was Boulangerie Saint Michel, in the Latin Quarter, as well as the many near our apartment rental in Montmartre.

Street vendors are king:

Instead of searching out kid-friendly cafes at lunch time, we ate street food. Lots and lots of street food. Not only was this option much more affordable than eating out, it was a time saver and frankly, delicious. The kids ate mostly crepes (they can be filled with things like Nutella and bananas to make them slightly more nutritious), as well as hot dogs (wrapped in baguette, of course). We adults ate a lot of quiche and baguette sandwiches, and never complained.

We found street vendors to be most plentiful in the areas around major tourist attractions of course, including the Lourve, Notre Dame, Saint Michel, and the Concorde. Enjoy a buffet of street food along the rue between Notre Dame and the Hotel d’Ville, before you cross the ‘island’ to the other side of the Seine.

Make your own picnic lunches (or dinners):

We loved sampling the wares at Paris street markets and in Paris cheese shops. Consider food shopping in Paris to be a combination of sight-seeing, souvenir-shopping, and dining. We created lovely picnic dinners to enjoy in our apartment after our legs were too tired to walk further. We shopped for cheese, cured meats, dried fruits, and baguette, and supplemented these items with crackers and inexpensive wine and juice from the grocery. Voila…dinner is served.

Yes, you should try some restaurants, too:

We didn’t want to do anything fancy in Paris, but we did eat several tasty meals out in casual cafes. Our favorites were recommended in our itinerary created for us by Momaboard. Read more about Momaboard’s itinerary planning in our post on creating a Paris itinerary with kids.

Here are a few dining experiences their planner, a local parent, recommended:

Cafe Constant (139 Rue Saint-Dominique)
Cafe La Place Cambronne (5 Avenue Anatole)
les Cocottes (135 rue st Dominque)

All of these dining establishments are kid-friendly, casual, and serve simple fare and rustic French cuisine (comfort food). We also tried several cafes in Montmartre, near Sacre Coeur. While this little square is very touristy, we found friendly waiters here willing to hear out our rudimentary French, good mussels and frites (fries), and a cheery ambiance. Go just below Sacre Coeur to the bottom of the steps, and the cafe on the corner there makes for a nice date night out for parents with that luxury.

Where do you like to eat in Paris with kids? We know we only scratched the surface!

Touring Paris with Fat Tire Tours

February 1, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

While planning our itinerary for Paris with kids, I kept hearing about an English-language, Paris-based tour company that goes around on bikes. My family loves exploring cities by bike (you may remember how we gushed about Bike ‘n Roll in the States), so we contacted Fat Tire Tours and set up a morning with them.

We chose to try their Paris Day Bike Tour, which has been a staple at the company since 1999. The tour is 3.5 hours, and covers a lot of ground. After several days of hoofing it around Paris, it was a welcome relief to be on two wheels. The Paris Day Bike Tour is designed to give visitors an overview of the area around the Eiffel Tower, Concorde, and Invalides. We took the tour on Day 3, and but while we’d seen the Eiffel Tower from afar and walked around the Louvre area, most of the stops were brand new to us.

The tour started at 9 am. After booking online, we were sent an email confirmation with instructions on where to meet the group. It was easy to find the Metro station indicated, but we almost ended up being late when we stood in the wrong place and somehow didn’t notice the group gathering. Doh! Once we were on the right track, one guide led the large group of about 25 people to Fat Tire’s office, where we could stash backpacks if needed, buy water, use the restroom, and get fitted for bikes. I worried at this point that our group would be too large to be manageable, but I shouldn’t have feared. Once we were all on bikes, the group was broken down to about 8 people per guide.

We set out within about 25 minutes, and rode primarily on streets, following our guide, with breaks from traffic on some bike paths and while on car-free paths along the Seine. While we did need to pay close attention to our guide while navigating the streets, it was easy to follow instructions and I never felt unsafe. Our kids were old enough to ride solo and follow instructions, but young kids are also welcome, as Fat Tire Tours has bikes with child seats available. I’d venture to say kids under age 5 would have a hard time in the traffic, and should be in bike seats.

Our guide Nick was British, living in Paris, and he was a wealth of information with a fun and lively personality. The kids were always interested in his commentary as he described Paris history through the various stops at historical buildings, churches, and bridges. I appreciated that Nick didn’t ‘dumb down’ the information for children. Even when the commentary was geared more to adults, there was always the novelty of riding the bikes through the city to keep kids entertained.

I learned a great deal about some buildings I otherwise would have passed by in Paris, and Nick was able to provide advice on where else to go in the city with the kids. In fact, we would have skipped seeing the d’Orsay Museum if not for his tip to go the following morning. It turned out to be our favorite museum.

We made about 10 stops through the city, with a longer break off the bikes at a cafe in the Tuileries by the Louvre. Even though we went in winter, this garden area was beautiful, and the little cafe was perfect for an easy lunch with kids. The boys got savory crepes and soup, and the adults had sandwiches on baguette. The wine and hot chocolate were both nice, too. At the end of our tour, we got a great photo op at the tower, too.

Note: Lunch is not included in the price, but is not expensive. I believe we spent about €7 per person. We brought our own water bottles in a small backpack.

Overall, we found everyone at Fat Tire Tours to be friendly, welcoming, and energetic, from Nick to the office staff to the attendants putting us on bikes. It was a very friendly place to spend a morning in Paris, which can be an intimidating city. After our tour, the office staff gave us further advice on how to spend our afternoon. We had tickets to go up the Eiffel Tower, so we walked over from the office and spent a few hours enjoying the winter sunshine and checking out the Christmas market.

Cost:

This half-day tour is $32 each, which I think is a steal. It was absolutely worth this and more.

Directions:

The office is located by the Eiffel Tower, and full instructions for meeting your group will be given upon booking.

As I disclose whenever applicable, our tour was comped by Fat Tire Tours, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

Tips for touring the Eiffel Tower

January 29, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Whether you think of the Eiffel Tower as cliched or iconic (or both!), it’s undoubtedly a must do on a family trip to Paris. We actually loved the time we spent at this most famous landmark, especially since we made a day of it. We started our morning with a bike tour with Fat Tire Tours, enjoyed the afternoon playing soccer and pursuing food stalls at the base of the tower, then went to the top in time for sunset. Our whole family counts this day as one of our favorites in Paris.

There are several levels of the tower, and several ways to get in and on it. We knew the kids would want to go to the top, so I bought tickets online before our trip for 3rd level access. When purchasing, I chose the time I wanted to visit, as it’s a timed entry situation. I thought about our time quite carefully, finally deciding to check weather.com for the estimated sunset time for the day we were going, and selecting a time period just before. Yes, this is high level planning-geek stuff, but it worked! We ascended the tower just before sunset, saw the sun set over the city at the second level, and enjoyed the twinkling lights of dusk at the top. Here’s what you need to know:

Tips for touring the Eiffel Tower:

When you buy tickets online in advance, you skip the line at the tower. Just print your emailed confirmation and show it at one of the four Advanced Ticket queues. They won’t let you up before your reserved time…we asked.

You’ll still go through a security check point, but you get to skip the majority of this line, too. From this point, you can either walk or ride the elevator to the second level. For some reason we didn’t understand, during our visit, the stair access was closed (going up). Our French wasn’t good enough to understand why.

Note: During high season, we’ve been told it’s possible to skip the queue at the bottom (assuming you don’t have an online ticket or don’t want to reserve a time) and climb the stairs to the second level to buy level 3 tickets, but when we visited in winter, this ticketing option was closed. Don’t count on it. Instead, buy online in advance.

At the second level, you’ll have to get out of the elevator. This is a nice place to look around, though. It was higher than we expected, and the views were great. From here, there’s a queue to get on the elevators to the top level. They’re unavoidable, sadly. When we visited, this line took about 25 minutes. However, this is where our sunset/twilight timing worked out: we were able to see the city in mostly daylight on the second level, and by the time we reached the third level, it was fully night.

At the top, there’s a glassed in, covered area and an outdoor area. It’s not unlike visiting the (former) Sears Tower or Empire State Building in that it’s extremely high, very windy, and totally thrilling for kids. We spent quite a bit of time up here, even though it was freezing and starting to snow. We actually got better photos down below, but the wow factor is fun. Plus, there are a few exhibits at the top showing Eiffel’s office he kept at the top for years, and some history on the tower. I knew he had created the design for the world’s fair, but had not realized that the city of Paris gave him the tower for 20 years afterward.

Going down, you have to wait in the queue again, so definitely budget at least 1.5 hours for the whole endeavor. You are let back off at the second level, and this time, the stairs were open (or perhaps they were always open for downward travel) so we took them. It was a great way to see more of the structure up close while not fighting gravity. On the first level (just above the ground), there’s an ice skating rink during the winter holidays. And it’s completely free, including rentals. Yes, really! We were so surprised by this. The kids all skated, and we adults enjoyed a hot beverage at the food stand adjacent. I’m curious what this space is used for in summer.

As most people know, the tower’s lights twinkle at the top of every hour. It’s certainly a better sight looking AT the tower instead of while being on it, but we happened to catch it while we were ice skating, and it was quite impressive. We felt as though we were inside the sparkle.

Note: At the security checkpoint, they are looking for and confiscating locks, like the kind used symbolically on the bridges. This is because they are absolutely not allowed on the tower. I had a lock in my bag to use elsewhere, and it was still taken from me. Lesson learned.

If you’re lucky enough to be there during the Christmas season, in addition to the ice skating rink, you’ll find a medium-sized Christmas market directly below the tower, complete with a second rink and lots of goodies. We especially recommend the chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) and mulled wine, paired with Belgian waffles with Nutella and crepes.

Pricing and hours:

Tickets are €17 for adults, €14,50 for youth (12-24) and €8 for kids. Age 4 and under is free. After selecting the number and type of tickets you need, you’ll be prompted to select a time period. When we booked two weeks prior to our trip, there were only 2-3 time choices left in the day we needed, so book early.

Directions:

The closest metro lines are Metro line 6 – Bir Hakeim or Metro line 8. Walk away from the tower along the open space toward the military building on the other side, then turn left at the far left corner. You can also walk to the Concorde area pretty easily.

Where to stay in Paris on a budget with kids

January 25, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

When we planned to spend five days in Paris with kids, we knew we’d be on a budget. To make it possible for us, we chose to book a HomeAway apartment rental in an outer arrondissement. This arrangement allowed us enough sleeping space for our family of five, a kitchen to cook some meals in, and a washing machine for our laundry. We already trusted HomeAway, as we use this site for ski vacations in the States. Abroad, we had the same positive experience we’re already accustomed to, even in Paris on a budget.

Why stay in the Montmartre neighborhood:

Montmartre is a neighborhood of contradictions: it’s both touristy and authentic, tacky and elegant. During our week-long stay, we found that the atmosphere changes as you climb the hill: at the bottom, you’ll find a working class neighborhood with more than its share of night clubs, but at the top, the elegance of Sacre Coeur awaits, with smaller cafes and street artists. The latter is filled with tourists, but below, we found a more genuine Paris experience, where the restaurants and stores served the locals…and were priced accordingly.

Pros:

Staying outside the most popular arrondissements can save money on accommodations.
The Montmartre neighborhood (and the 18th arrondissement) has a local, artsy vibe that’s fun for older kids and teens.
The Chateau Rogue metro station is convenient to downtown.

Cons:

While Montmartre is a destination in itself, it’s not in the heart of the go-to tourist attractions: you’re a metro ride away.
Can be loud at night in some areas.

Paris on a budget: Why apartment living is where it’s at:

We set up camp at this HomeAway apartment, located just steps from the Metro station and a five minute walk from Sacre Coeur. In the heart of the holiday season, we paid only $500 total for five nights, which is drastically less than we’d spend on two hotel rooms per night for our family of five.

While the space was small, we all had our own beds, and the space was functional. We saved even more money by eating in several nights during our stay. Directly down the street from our apartment was a convenient grocery store where we stocked up on essentials, and several bakeries were just below us. We stocked up on breakfast items, coffee, bottled water, snacks, and the makings of a few easy meals, such as soup and baguette. We still ate most our meals out, but having some in saved us time and money.

You never know how hands-on or hands-off your host will be when you book through HomeAway, but this time, we hit the jackpot. The owner of this apartment was very communicative and helpful, both before our trip and during. She met us with a smile when we arrived tired after a transcontinental flight, and spoke English well enough to give us a tour of the small apartment (we don’t speak French). Renting this apartment also gave us access to free WiFi, a laundry machine, and the extra space of a living room.

A few HomeAway tips:

Download the app for easy communication with your host.
Book early for the best pricing, but don’t be afraid to try for a last-minute booking…some hosts discount their properties if unsold during peak weeks.
Read the fine print: check to see if you’ll need to leave a damage deposit or any required city tax fee, and whether it will need to be in cash. For our rental, a €250 cash deposit was required (returned on departure), and this would have been a pretty big hiccup if I hadn’t been prepared ahead of time.
Check both the map in the listing and the reviews. Look for information on the host as well as on the property itself.

Montmartre during the Christmas season:

While I’m now sold on staying in Montmartre during any time of year, it was particularly magical during the Christmas season. A ten minute walk from our apartment found us at the top of the hill by Sacre Coeur, where we had a great view of the Eiffel Tower and festive lights twinkled from every corner.

The above post was written in partnership with HomeAway. As always, all opinions remain my own.

How to plan a Paris itinerary with kids

January 13, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

With its 20 arrondissements connected by a busy metro system, Paris can feel intimating at first. The key to planning a Paris itinerary with kids is to plan your days ahead of time, grouping destinations by proximity and utilizing walking tours to bridge the gaps (figuratively and literally).

When planning our five days in Paris, I started by making a list of our must-do’s, which included the usual suspects: the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur, Notre Dame, and d’Orsay. Of course, at this point in my planning, I knew I was missing a lot. To properly fill out my itinerary, I utilized itinerary planning services that offer local recommendations, walking tours, and dining picks. Once I had ‘B list’ destinations and restaurants in the mix, I organized my days based on where we could walk after only one or two metro rides per day. Finally, I bought every ticket possible ahead of time, including Paris Museum Passes, which allowed us to skip every entrance queue we found (and we found quite a few).

Itinerary services we recommend:

Momaboard:

I’ve known the folks at Momaboard for years, and I was thrilled to learn they’d launched their trip planning program. Momaboard pairs traveling families with local experts with kids of their own. After a brief questionnaire about our trip, the ages of our kids, and our interests and goals, our Momaboard expert put together several days’ worth of itineraries for us, including detailed directions, dining recommendations, and fun facts en route.

How I used this information: certainly, families can use the itineraries ‘out of the box’. They’re ready to go. However, since I already had a very loose sketch of our our days would look, I instead mixed and matched the attractions suggested. For instance, our Momaboard itinerary suggested a morning in Montmartre followed by an afternoon near the Eiffel Tower. I did both, but broke them up into two different days. By far the most useful part of our Momaboard itinerary: the dining recs. We are not foodies, and we have hungry teens to feed, and all the restaurant picks were right on target for us.

TraveLove:

We also tried out Travelove on this trip. Similar to Momaboard in that Travelove uses local itinerary-builders and asks families questions ahead of time, Travelove printed us a multipage, bound guidebook with custom itineraries, walking tours, and maps…lots and lots of useful maps. They also put together a journal/activity book for our ten-year-old that included custom-built questions and activities based on our particular itinerary. He had a lot of fun with it.

By far, the best attribute of our Travelove service was the walking tours suggested. They went point-by-point, with great maps and descriptions. For instance, they put together an excellent walk from the Tuileries to the Lourve, which we actually walked in reverse. Starting at the Lourve after our morning there, we walked along the Seine past the booksellers, Latin Quarter, and Notre Dame, learning things along the way.

Here’s what our itinerary looked like by the time we’d implemented both these services and gathered ideas from other guidebooks. (I recommend Rick Steves.) Our must-dos we started with are highlighted.

Day 1:

Metro from our neighborhood in Montmartre to Musee de Lourve. Morning at the Louvre, followed by a walking tour along the river through the Latin Quarter to Notre Dame. Dinner in the Hotel D’Ville area. Metro back ‘home’ in time to walk to Sacre Coeur at night to watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle.

Day 2:

Metro from our neighborhood to the Eiffel Tower area, where we booked a morning Fat Tire Tour of the Concorde and Invalides area. (See separate post.) Lunch at street vendors under the tower, followed by a stop at a creperie recommended by Momaboard. Timed tickets to go up the Eiffel Tower at sunset.

Day 3:

Metro from our neighborhood to the d’Orsay Museum, followed by a shorter stint in the Rodin courtyard (recommended by a tour guide). Built-in ‘free’ afternoon; we spent it watching the new Star Wars movie followed by a visit to the Paris catacombs.

Day 4:

Toured the area near the Arc d’Triumph and Champs Elysees, including dining recommendations from Momaboard. We concluded our day with a boat tour along the Seine, and explored the seasonal Christmas markets. Almost all of this day was built out based on local recommendations.

Day 5:

Viator tour through Normandy to see D-Day beaches and museums (see separate post).

Getting around:

We used the Paris metro system exclusively. We found it very easy to use once we got our bearings, with good signage and multiple stops. Each day, we hopped on the metro from our Montmartre neighborhood (Chateau Rogue stop) and rode it multiple times per day. To do this, we found multi-day metro passes to be crucial (see below).

A word on the Paris Museum Pass:

The Paris Pass allows families to skip the long lines at museums, and gives parents the freedom to plan shorter museum visits (with the pass, it’s no big deal if you only spend 30 minutes checking out 2-3 major works). Kids are free at almost all museums (18 and under) which is wonderful, but if they don’t have a kids’ Paris Pass, you’ll still need to wait in line to get them a ticket (silly, I know). Because the Paris Pass comes included with a multi-day metro pass, it may be worth it to pay for kids’ passes along with adults, so everyone can skip the lines. Without these passes, we would have waited over an hour to get into the Lourve and Notre Dame each (instead we walked in immediately). Look for the Paris Pass or advanced tickets queue, or ask for it. Note: a few locations indicate they ‘don’t guarantee line skipping’, such as Notre Dame. I asked the guard at the start of the line politely if we needed to wait in line, showing our Paris Pass, and he waved us right in.

General tips:

Seek out the less touristy cafes and food carts, but not at the expense of hunger. After hours in the Lourve, we knew we should go in search of a crepe or baguette, but everyone was hungry and tired and ready to revolt if we walked in the wrong direction. The museum cafe sufficed (and actually had very good takeaway sandwiches).

Give kids spending money: there are so many tempting treats as you walk along the streets in Paris, you’ll be saying ‘no’ every ten minutes if you’re asked to open your wallet that often. Give kids money of their own to spend on tasty but small change treats such as macarons, eclairs, and crepes.

What are your best tips for touring Paris with kids?

Pompeii or Ostia Antica: Which to include as a day trip from Rome

January 4, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Click on just about any message board or forum about Roman travel, and you’ll see the question, “Should we go to Pompeii or Ostia Antica during our trip to Rome? After debating the question for ourselves last month as we planned our own Roman holiday, I can tell you there’s no easy answer.

For those in the early stages of planning, here’s the scoop: Pompeii is, of course, the site of the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, and the archeological remains are those of a civilization caught in time. Ostia Antica is the site of the one-time Roman seaport, which fell out of popularity slowly, as the sea receded (it’s now several miles away). Ostia Antica is also beautifully preserved, and somewhat more accessible in both location and visual layout. The bottom line: do you want to see your ruins with our without a volcano? Here are some questions to ask yourself as you plan:

How much time do you have?

Pompeii is easily a long full day trip from Rome, whereas Ostia Antica is just 30 minutes away. You’ll want to dedicate at least half a day to tour either location (the more the better), so take this into account. Some travelers even make Pompeii an overnight trip. It’s that extensive. To get to Pompeii, you’ll want to take the Frecciarossa line from Termini station in Rome to Napoli Centrale in Naples, then transfer to the local line. Be sure to start your trip early in the day, especially in the off-season, when exhibits at Pompeii closer earlier (as early as 3 pm). Advanced reservations are only needed for the first leg of the train trip. If you opt to rent a car in Italy, you’ll definitely save time and have more flexibility.

What’s your budget for a day trip?

Train tickets to Pompeii ran about $70 per adult and $30 for children in late 2015. Consider this cost in your considerations. Tickets to Ostia Antica are just a few euros, and the train line is included in the greater metro area of Rome. This means that if you have Roma Pass, you’ll travel there for free. Both locations charge entry fees, but they’re minimal. At both locations, it’s possible to either tour on your own or hire a local guide.

What type of preservation do you hope to see?

Pompeii is unique in that it’s literally a moment preserved in time. Ostia Antica was abandoned more slowly and naturally, as the port grew out of service (as the sea receded). Therefore, what you’ll see there is a more generalized ruin that represents many centuries. There’s more to physically see at Ostia Antica, because it’s all above ground and spread out in a city format. At Pompeii, much is still hidden under layers of ash and dirt, but what you can see is magnificent. So the question boils down to: do you want to show your children what a civilization looks like in mid-movement, when struck by a natural disaster, or what many centuries of commerce look like? There’s no wrong answer.

What we decided:

After much debate, we decided to take the plunge and go to Pompeii. Why? Several members of our traveling party were set on it, and when there’s that much enthusiasm for a site, that’s where we head. There’s something vey iconic about seeing Pompeii, and I didn’t want to damper this excitement. Would we have loved Ostia Antica? I have no doubt we would have. As I said before, there’s no wrong answer here.

The above post was written in partnership with Alamo Europe. All opinions remain my own.

Road Trip Through Spain: Madrid to Barcelona

June 3, 2015 By Amy Hagstrom

Ask GoogleMaps how to get from Madrid to Barcelona, and you’ll be taken in a direct shot along the E-90. But take the road less traveled on a road trip from Madrid to Barcelona, and you’ll be rewarded with fewer tourists and a more authentic local scene. Starting in Madrid, take the E-901 from Madrid through Cuenca and Aragon before meeting up again with the E-90 or A-2 into the seaside city of Barcelona.

Rent a car in Madrid, then set out from the city by mid-morning. You’ll want to budget at least an overnight for this road trip, but you could certainly stretch it to two nights if you really want to linger.

Cuenca:

The medieval town of Cuenca is less than two hours from Madrid, on E-901. Cuenca’s famous ‘hanging houses’ are located here; the walled town is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Built by the Moors, Cuenca has Spain’s first Gothic cathedral, thanks to the Castilians who conquered the city in the 12th century. With kids, stop at the Parque Natural de la Serrania de Cuenca, where everyone can get out of the car for some hiking in this beautiful and visually interesting countryside. The narrow roads are steep in some parts of the park, but this just adds to the thrill for kids.

Before driving on, see the Casas Colgadas for a lesson in unique architecture; these houses seem to hover over the cliffs, with layers of balconies and gables. You can see them best from the old town, past the Puente de San Paulo footbridge.

Teruel:

Continuing on from Cuenca, head toward Teruel on the N-320 (connecting to the N-420). This section of the drive is about two hours and 45 minutes, but I recommend continuing on to Aragon for an overnight stop. Stop in Teruel for a break, however, taking in the gorges rising up from the Rio Turia in this industrial city. During this part of the drive, you’ll enter the mountain valleys and vineyards of the Aragon region. The villages tucked away between earth-colored hills are ancient, and look sunk into their surroundings. When I went through, I had to remind myself I was still in modern-day Spain.

Aragon:

Approximately six hours’ drive time from Madrid (but more like eight hours after a few stops en route), you’ll arrive in Aragon. Stay the night, then get up with the sun so you have time to explore this city before getting back on the road. Start with the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, the baroque cathedral where Catholic believers say Santiago saw the Virgin Mary. It opens at 7 am, so this makes for a nice pre-breakfast sight if you have early risers.

About 30 minutes drive away, in Zaragoza, is the Museo Pablo Gargallo, as well as rafting trips and float trips down the Ebro River. Spending most the day in the area to combine a bit of culture with some outdoor adventure is a great way to go; head out toward Barcelona in the mid-afternoon.

The remaining drive is just over three hours. Arrive in Barcelona as the sun is setting!

This post was written in partnership with Enterprise rental cars. Itinerary is my own.

Photo credit: Felipe Gabaldón, Andrew Gould, Jorge Correa

Children-Friendly Activities around Lisbon

February 16, 2015 By Sharlene Earnshaw

If one had to choose a single word to describe Lisbon, the amazing capital city of Portugal, chances are that, that word would be “charming”. There are many other words that spring to mind, such as romantic, picturesque, sunny and striking, with this city looking like something straight out of a Disney fairy-tale.

Thanks to the fact that this is one of the oldest cities in the world, Lisbon does a fine job in bringing stunning old-fashioned buildings and modern architecture together in a way that is guaranteed to take your breath away. When it comes to admiring antique buildings, learning about their rife histories, this is usually about the time that the children switch off, pulling out their cell phones. Luckily for families hopping on a plane, train, car or boat to Lisbon, you’ll be glad to know that there is an endless list of amazing experiences that will be fun for the entire family.

Before one can even take a step out into the charming streets of Lisbon, it is important to find the perfect accommodation that will keep the family entertained. Hotels are all good and well, but they take away from that warm, cosy feel of travelling with your loved ones. With most of the best attractions a short bus or cab ride away from city centre, why not enjoy a comfortable housetrip at the many cottages, both self-catering and B&B-styled, that are scattered across the city.

Sleeping with the fishes at Lisbon Oceanarium

Don’t worry, we mean sleeping with the fishes in an educational way, rather than the Mafia way. The Lisbon Oceanarium holds the title as the second largest aquarium in Europe, with over 8000 different aquatic species to admire and learn about. Families are able to book sleepovers, allowing you to doze off with massive Grey Nurse Sharks swimming gracefully nearby.

Feel like James Bond on the amphibious Hippotrip tour

Tell a child that you are going on a city tour, and they will not feel excited, tell them that part of the city tour takes them into the River Tagus, and they will lose their mind! This land-sea excursion is a must for all families, allowing you to learn about Lisbon in a way that is exciting and memorable.

Pull Strings at Museu da Marioneta

Everyone knows that when it comes to families, it is usually the young ones that pull all the strings, and at this amazing puppet museum, they can do just that. Founded in 1987 and set in an ancient convent, this place is home to a massive number of puppets from around the world, spanning across several centuries.

Post written by Jason Swindon

Photo credit

Europe with Kids: Free things to do in Stockholm

January 22, 2015 By Amy Hagstrom

Northern Europe is notoriously pricey. Countries like Sweden enjoy excellent standards of living, but for visitors, this can mean that things like transport, hotels and eating out can come at a premium. However, there are ways to off-set the costs of your trip to Sweden. Plan well in advance; it will afford you the opportunity to take advantage of dining out deals, learn the layout of the city in order to get around by bike or subway and drive a hard bargain on your hotel room by shopping around when arranging Stockholm city breaks. As for entertainment, here are some of the best things to do in the capital that won’t cost you a krona.

Go for a dip:

It might seem preposterous to take an al fresco dip when you’re so far north, but the locals can’t get enough of outdoor swimming in summer. Paddle your toes in either of Stockholm’s swimming beaches; Långholmsbadet or Smedsuddsbadet are renowned for their clean, clear waters and are popular with tourists.

See the changing of the guard:

Bear witness to this prestigious ceremony that takes place every day outside the royal palace from 12.15pm. A convoy of guards marches through the city and into the palace grounds at Gamla Stan in a ceremony that takes a full 40 minutes, all to the rousing beat of a military drum. Stand to attention, and be sure to bring your camera!

Check out the underground art scene:

Not only is it a cheap and convenient method of traveling the city, Stockholm’s subway comprises over 100 underground stops, all of which have been decorated in a different theme. Carved, Renaissance-style statues glare from exposed rock walls, Pac-Man ghosts peep from gleaming, tiled walls and painted vines and lilies sprawl over arches in bright greens and blues. It’s enough to make you envious of Stockholm’s commuters!

Have a picnic in Djurgarden:

You can reach this popular island by foot or boat, and spend some time following the many scenic paths that sprawl over its parkland. Although it’s home to many of the city’s top museums, amusement grounds and an animal park, it’s also the perfect spot to relax and reconnect with nature, as Djurgarden was once a royal game reserve. Take a picnic, wear your running gear or just enjoy a romantic stroll with your significant other.

Image by Hector Melo used under the Creative Commons license.