Luxury stay in Athens Greece: Hotel Grande Bretagne

Athens is a sprawling, hot, and bustling city, and if you want to be pampered when you make your way to your accommodations after each long day of sightseeing, make your home the Hotel Grande Bretagne. A Marriott Luxury Collection property, the Bretagne is ideally located in the heart of Syntagma Square, right next to the Parliament. You’ll be wowed the moment you step inside the historic lobby with its high ceilings and elegant decor (this hotel opened in 1874, and oozes that old-style luxury travel experience). I experienced some of the best service I’ve ever had at the Bretagne, from impeccable housekeeping to a very helpful concierge and valet staff.

Standard rooms are on the small side, but they’re luxury all the way, with great views of the city, more high ceilings (only to be found in historic hotels these days) and bathrooms with deep baths as well as shower options. There are 320 rooms and suites, so you have your options. There’s a fully-stocked mini-bar, but I still found room for my bottle of water to keep it cool, and families can ask that the mini-bar be emptied if they’d prefer more space. You also get espresso each morning via a Nespresso machine and bottled water delivered daily, as well as turn-down service.

The landmark hotel has several restaurants on-site, including Winter Garden downstairs (which has a fabulous afternoon tea, if you need a mid-day break) and the Roof Garden Restaurant on the top floor, with open-air seating on the rooftop with stunning views of the Acropolis. Even if you don’t dine here at night, be sure to stop at the rooftop bar for a cocktail. The Roof Garden Restaurant is also the location for their fabulous breakfast buffet (opt for a room rate that includes this, or it will seriously set you back). The full-service buffet includes more continental and hot items than anyone could possibly try in several mornings, and there’s a menu of options as well.

The outdoor pool is located one floor down, with more great views and another bar with small plates and drinks (though I found that it tended to close earlier than its 8 pm posted time during my visit). There’s a large exercise facility and indoor pool on the bottom level of the hotel, which also houses the full spa and salon. Sadly, I didn’t get a chance to try the spa.

The benefits of staying at the Bretagne went beyond the comfort of terry bathrobes and slippers laid out each evening: the location was convenient to everything in the city center, and the valet staff makes it so easy to get a cab and get directions to anywhere. The lobby makes for an instant respite each time you enter it, and a cool dip in the pool is exactly what’s needed after touring antiquities.

Room rates: Room rates hover at about 600EU per night, so this is definitely a luxury splurge stay. See below for additional options for other budgets.

Address: 1 Vasimeos Georgiou A, Syntagma Square

Other good hotels centrally-located for families:

Wyndham Grand: located about a 10-minute cab ride from Syntagma Square, further from the Acropolis but still with great views, and usually around 150-180 EU.

Royal Olympic: Directly across from the Temple of Zeus, in a very convenient downtown location, around 250 EU.

Both of these options have lovely rooftop restaurants with views of the Acropolis (and the Olympic also has great views of the Temple of Zeus, as well).

Portugal with kids: Martinhal Cascais review

If you’re visiting Portugal with kids, you’ll certainly be spending multiple days in Lisbon. Read our tips for Lisbon here. When you need a reprieve from city touring, head to the nearby seaside town of Cascais, where Martinhal Cascais is a resort destination in and of itself.

Most resorts designated as ‘kid-friendly’ or ‘family-centric’ are loud and overstimulating. Martinhal Cascais completely defies this expectation and greets parents with serenity and five-star luxury. Kids are welcomed and celebrated here—every aspect of Martinhal Cascais has kids in mind—but not at the expense of adults. Instead, this property remains elegant and calming while also maintaining a relaxed vibe.

Martinhal Cascais review:

Indoor/outdoor kid-friendly spa pool

Upon check-in, kids are greeted with goodie bags with stuffed (plush) toys, hats, ping-pong sets and the like. Parents are given the run-down of the resort: suites come as either half board (breakfast and one additional meal per day included) or full board (all three meals per day included), allowing you to create a fully inclusive experience. Or, you can opt out of any included meals, and pay a la carte (suites often include fridges and wet bars and villas include full kitchens).

 

We suggesting visiting Martinhal Cascais mid-vacation, and using this posh, peaceful property for some much needed R&R. Rooms and suites vary, but in general, the property has 60+ deluxe rooms that sleep four, with either pull-out bunk beds or sofa pullouts) and four suites (with a slider door division between bed and sofa pullout).

Martinhal bunks in most rooms (they fold up in the daytime!)

All rooms have kid-friendly features such as potty chairs, high chairs, and baby proofing, and additional gear such as bottle warmers or cots (cribs) can be requested. Twelve stand-alone villas line the side of the property, six of which sleep six instead of the standard four). However, these villas are awkward to reach; even though they’re adjacent to the playground area, a fence necessitates going around via road each time you come and go). Unless you really need the space for six, I suggest a suite in the main resort building or a deluxe room instead.

Martinhal villas

Bathrooms are gorgeous and feature oversized tubs and step-in showers. All rooms are bright and airy with sleek glass at every turn (but plenty of shades for when you need them). Most if not all have very spacious balconies or patios with outdoor furniture.

Most meals are had in the main dining space downstairs, which is where families meet for the breakfast buffet serving all manner of hot dishes (eggs, breakfast meats, pancakes), a wide variety of gourmet cheese and cut meats, breads, croissant and pastry, cereals, granola, and yogurt, fruit, and freshly-squeezed fruit juices. Mimosas are available for adults, as well as anything else you care to order from your server. Even the honey is presented in an actual comb, and cheese wheels are hand-cut on-site. A full, leisurely and gourmet dinner meal is served here as well, at indoor and outdoor patio seating. Lest you think this sounds pretty much awful with young kids in tow, fear not: a small playroom is located to one side of the dining room, staffed so you can let kids play there without leaving your own meal to get cold.

 

 

In fact, throughout the property, what I deemed ‘roaming nannies’ are always at-hand, ready to step in and entertain your children while you relax, read a book, eat a meal, or simply have a conversation. This is as amazing as it sounds. If you want to eat elsewhere for a change of pace from the dining room, the M Bar is located above the kids’ club, and offers a more casual (yet still delicious) lunch and dinner menu. Parents can opt for a balcony seat and watch their kids play on the playground below, or make use of the kids’ club or one of those useful roaming staff members. There’s a full bar here as well, as well as a lobby bar located by the dining room.

Martinhal Cascais kids’ club

The spa books appointments for adults as well as ‘mom and me’ and ‘dad and me’ type treatments for kids, and the additional spa facilities, including the indoor pool, hot tub and sauna and the smaller outdoor pool and lounge deck are all open to kids (accompanied by parents). This is a great opportunity to teach children about quiet indoor voices and how to behave in a spa-like environment without anyone fussing at them to leave.

I cannot emphasize enough how calming the entire property feels. Parents can truly have a restful holiday without sacrificing any of the amenities kids crave. I really don’t know how they achieve this, but it’s magic.

Outdoor pool hangout (seasonal)

What to do on site and off:

On-site, families will find a plethora of activities. The kids’ club welcomes kids up to age 12 (and this is flexible for older siblings) and baby club (for infants) are both fully-staffed and open daily. They’re located across the lawn from the suites adjacent to an impressive climbing structure, kid-sized zip lines, an in-ground trampoline and an in-ground air mattress for jumping. Right outside the brightly-lit indoor kids’ club and baby club lies an indoor heated pool (housed under a plastic dome to keep the air very warm inside).

indoor kids’ pool

Kids can be served meals in the club, or parents can check them in and out at will. Parents can also join their kids in the pool area, or in a separate play around for family use. Across the grounds, a seasonal outdoor pool complex with zero-depth entry beckons in the summer months, and all year-round, the Martinhal spa offers an additional indoor/outdoor pool where kids are welcome. Additional outdoor lounging areas and play structures are dotted across the resort grounds. If all this isn’t enough, there is also a turf futsal (soccer) field and bike rentals on-site (starting around 15 Euro for two-hour rentals…helmets available).

just part of the outdoor playground

When you’re ready to explore further afield, the beautiful Portuguese coastline awaits, easily accessible by foot or bike from Martinhal: just navigate 2-3 blocks to the coastline, then enjoy the well-maintained bike and pedestrian path that hugs the ocean. This is a rocky section of coastline, so parents of young kids will want to take care, but the views are spectacular. If you take the path left from the resort, you’ll end up in the town of Cascais (about 2 km), where multiple sand beaches and a marina await. Head in the opposite direction and a slightly longer bike ride or walk will take you to a more rugged, windy beach mostly used for surfing and kite surfing.

Cascais

It’s well worth spending an afternoon or two at Cascais, enjoying the historic town center and beaches. Several fortresses still perch on the rocky cliffside, including Cidadela Palace of Cascais that now serves as a multi-use space for restaurants and museums near town. En route, you’ll also pass by the Santa Maria lighthouse and Boca do Inferno, a dramatic, gaping cliffside attraction where kids can peer down at the sea from bridges and paths.

Let the kids play in Marechal Carmona Park, then walk the main pedestrian street of Cascais or play on the beaches. Four are located past the marina area, including Pescadores, Rainha, Conceicao and Duquesa. We think Conceicao is the largest, offering lounge chairs to rent to settle in. In town, several inviting rooftop bars offer homemade pitchers of sangria should you find yourself kid-free (or have brought plenty of kid-friendly snacks to keep little ones happy).

How to get here: TAP Portugal is the way to go, with direct flights now from New York and Boston. They even have stop-over options for travelers who can only spend a few days.

Disclosure: I experienced Martinhal Cascais as a guest of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinion remains my own.

12 reasons to explore Germany’s Romantic Road

We write regularly about beautiful road trips exploring the US or some of the best places in Europe. Today we are going to show you the ultimate European trend related to road trip and experience you won’t forget! We are talking about Germany’s Romantic Road. We had the chance to try it and now we are going to share with you, our top 12 reasons to go for it! Let’s do this!

germany

1. It is a scenic path. Road tripping the Romantic Road will offer you incredible views on a trip to remember!

2.    You will learn something more about Germany from a unique perspective. Driving through Bavaria will give you glimpses of the real life, the local culture and typical cuisine.

3.    Exploring the country in an adventurous and free mode. After hiring your car, you will be able to explore the country at your own pace and stopping whenever wherever you want.

4.    Save money on a car hire. Road tripping is convenient and fun! We used holidayautos.com to compare the best deals and solutions. It was so easy to use we had the best time. We will use it again for our next trip!

5.    You can go for tasting tours. From beer to wine there are plenty of options to drink something local while exploring the best-hidden gems of this area.

6.    Eating some typical delicious dishes. With this road trip, you will enjoy the most traditional culinary art of the country eating the best meat and the best desserts of your life!

germany

7.    Having a yummy snack on the road. Don’t forget to try Schneebälle, super yummy delicious meals to eat on the go for your next adventure!

8.    You will marvel at the architecture. Each little city you will stop by will offer you some incredible design to appreciate the art and the style of this region.

9.    Full immersing into beautiful natural landscapes. Road tripping is terrific to stop by once you spot someplace you need to visit. While driving through Bavaria, you will find so many different beautiful places for incredible pics and some time to remember.

10.    You will see fairy-tale like castles IRL! You cannot miss the chance to stop at beautiful iconic Neuschwanstein, the famous castle inspiring the Disney Logo. What an experience!

11.    Signals are so easy to follow. We know how tricky could sound a road trip like this one but, trust us when we tell you signs are all over the road and they are so easy to follow you won’t need your GPS!

12.    Accommodations are to die for! For your stay consider stopping at one of the incredible good-looking house you will encounter on your way. They look like dollhouses, and they will give you a unique touch to your stay too!

These are the best 12 reasons why you should go for a Germany’s Romantic Road trip! We already know you are going to love it! So get ready and explore this beautiful area!

Guide to Iceland’s southern coast

It’s easy to find advice and guides to Iceland’s famed Golden Circle, and yes, this well-trafficked and easy route from Reykjavik is definitely worth doing. However, beyond the Golden Circle, there’s so much to see in Southern Iceland. Here’s where to go and what to see on Iceland’s southern coast along the Ring Road.

Touring Iceland’s Southern Coast

iceland southern coast

From Reykjavik, take the Ring Road (Route 1) and head southeast, doing the following. You’ll want at least 2-3 days to enjoy this region at your leisure, though it is possible to drive out and back in one long day with very few stops (not recommended). Here’s where to go:

Hveragerði: 

This town 45 km from Reykjavik is home to the wonderful Reykjadalur hot springs river hike. We’ve included it in our post on Iceland hot springs off the beaten path. Follow the signage through the main street of this tiny town to find the trailhead, and then hike 3.5 km (one way) up into the hills to find the hot springs river. The reward of the steaming bath that awaits makes the hike well worth the effort! Even young kids can do this hike with enough time to take it slow (it does get steep).

iceland hot springs

Hvolsvöllur:

Continue past the pretty town of Selfoss and stop at Hvolsvöllur to visit the LAVA Centre. We’ve included details in our post on Iceland national parks. This brand new center does a great job of explaining the volcanic activity of Iceland, which will be very useful information as you tour the natural formations of the southern end of the island.

Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss: 

These waterfalls are definitely worth the stop. As you drive, you’ll see plenty of others, but most are on private property, behind the quaint farms of this region. At Seljalandsfoss, you can walk behind the falls, and explore two additional on a walking path to the left. At Skogafoss, you can hike up the steep stairs to the top of the waterfall, or, if you’re ambitious, you can continue on the start of the Fimmvörðuháls trail. This 25 km trail between Skógar and Þórsmörk is divided into three sections, the first of which is called Waterfall Way. Families can do this as an out-and-back on nice days. (To do the whole trail, a GPS unit or guide is necessary, and most people do it in two days.) Also at Skogafoss is a very good museum: standard admission gets you into a transportation museum and history/folk museum, or you can buy a reduced ticket for just the outdoor buildings of the folk museum side, which include historic sod farm buildings, a schoolhouse, church, and outbuildings. We recommend this option.

Vik:

vik

This little coastal town at the very southern end of Iceland is known for its black sand beaches at Reynisfjara. The turn off Route 1 for the beach is just west of town, and a great place to see the basalt column geological formations Iceland is known for. You can also see puffins, apparently, but we only saw other sea birds making their nests in the cliffs. Vik has a public swimming pool (as do most Icelandic towns) and is a good place to refuel.

Kirkjubæjarklaustur:

We loved this little village, which a lovely waterfall at the end of town (take the hike up it to the impressive lake at the top) and Kirkjugolf (church floor). This natural rock formation was once mistaken for a manmade church floor. It’s located just a few meters down the road from the N1 gas station and easy to access.

iceland

Skaftafell:

iceland

The most accessible gateway to the largest glacier in Iceland (and Europe), Skaftafell houses the visitor center for the national park, Vatnagokull. Families can take lots of great day hikes here with views of the glacier and Skaftafoss (waterfall), or can hire a guide for a glacier walk (it’s not permissible or safe to walk on the glacier on one’s own). It’s also home to impressive ice cave touring. There’s a nice campground here, if you want to make Skaftafell a turn-around point.

Have you toured the Southern Coast of Iceland? Where do you recommend stopping?

 

 

 

Beyond the Blue Lagoon: Iceland hot springs off the beaten path

Yep, we went to Iceland for eight days and never went to the Blue Lagoon. Why pay a crazy entry fee to go to an overcrowded geothermal pool, when so many remote, beautiful, and FREE pools exist all over Iceland?

During our camper van road trip in Iceland, we dipped our toes in steaming water every single day, and never paid an entry fee of more than $25 (and usually paid nothing at all).

Where to find Iceland hot springs off the beaten path: 

iceland hot springs

Reykjadalur hot springs river:

In the south, just about 40 minutes outside of Reykjavik, the small town of Hvergerdi offers a 3.5 kilometer hike into the geothermal hills to a hot springs river. Yes, it’s well worth the hike. You’ll climb upward pretty steeply for the first km or so, then work your way up and down over hills with lovely views of the valley below. Eventually, you’ll see steam billowing up, and you’ll quicken your pace, because you’ll know you’re close! At the river, there’s a boardwalk with entry points along the small stream, and a few wooden walls that serve as changing areas. If you follow the boardwalk up, you’ll find the hottest water (so hot it’s almost painful), and as you walk down, you’ll find cooler water (closer to 35-37 C). It’s a lot of fun to move from section to section feeling the different temperatures.

iceland hot springs

If you don’t want to change behind a wall, you can change in the small bathrooms at the little cafe at the start of the hike, or just wear your swimsuit under your hiking wear. Be sure to bring lots of layers, including rain wear, as there’s no protection from the elements (similar to all over Iceland). The hot springs river is free, and does get crowded on the trail (though even in peak season, we found plenty of space in the river to soak).

To get here: Take Route 1 (Ring Road) from Reykjavik to Hvergerdi. Drive through town following the Reykjadalur signage until you get to a gravel road ending in a parking lot.

Seljavallalaug Hidden Hot Spring:

This one may not be so hidden anymore, but it’s still uncrowded. This geothermal pool is located in the middle of nowhere in a tiny valley with green mountains rising dramatically up all around it. The pool was made near the turn of the 20th century, for the purpose of teaching Icelandic children to swim (before the 1920s, unbelievably, most Icelanders could not swim). It has a single pool and rudimentary changing rooms (unisex…it gets interesting). This pool gets some criticism on TripAdvisor and the like, with people calling it dirty. It’s not dirty: it’s rich in algae, natural to Icelandic hot springs. The hike to the pool is only about one km, and our only complaint is that the water is a bit on the cool side (around 35 degrees). Toward the southern end of the pool where the geothermal water flows in, it’s closer to 40 degrees. On a warm day, this is fine, but on the cold, sleeting day we visited, it was painful to get out! This pool is FREE.

iceland hidden hot springs

How to get here: From Route 1, turn down road 242 in the south. Follow the dirt road straight (don’t turn right) and you’ll get to a parking lot with an unused pool about 1/4 mile in. The hike is short into the valley (you can’t see the pool from the parking area though).

Laudar campsite hot pot:

This adorable hot pot (hot tub) is located in the Laudar campsite in west Iceland. The parking lot is at the Hotel Edda, and the walk is just a few meters. There’s a quaint changing hut (unisex, but fewer people are here) and the water is a perfect 38 degrees. You can camp onsite, too, if desired. This hot pot is FREE.

Iceland hot pot

How to get here: From Route 1, take 60 all the way up through the isolated farmlands until you’re above the town of Budardalur. Follow the sign to Laudar.

Secret Lagoon:

So the Secret Lagoon is no secret, but it can be found just outside of the town of Fludir near the Golden Circle. You’ll find a large pool half-formed by natural rock, fed hot water from bubbling geysers nearby. It’s the most expensive pool we visited ($25 per adult), probably because of its proximity to the Golden Circle and its tourism traffic. No matter: it’s worth spending a few hours here.

iceland secret lagoon

How to get here: Take road 30 to Fludir. The sign is just before you enter town. Go down a dirt road for just about a mile.

Hot pot of Flokalaundar:

If you’re willing to drive about two hours (mostly on dirt) from Reykholar in the Westfjords, you’ll arrive at a hot pot nestled right against the sea. Do as the locals do and jump between the warm water (around 38 degrees) and the freezing ocean and back. This hot pot is larger than Laudar but a bit busier. No changing rooms…change in your car or camper. There’s a small parking lot right nearby.

Iceland hot pot

How to get here: From Route 1, take 60 and follow it all the way up into the fjords. Be sure to have a full tank of gas, as there are few services before you reach Flokalaundar. Plan on narrow, steep dirt road for part of the drive. Is it worth it? Yes.

Tip: Can’t get to a natural hot springs one day? Look for a public Icelandic pool! Every town we drove through had their own (look for the water and swimmer signage), and each cost less than $10-$12. Inside each complex, you’ll find a geothermal fed warm outdoor pool (often with waterslides and other features), hot pots, and a steam bath, plus nice changing rooms and hot showers. Talk with locals here, and get to know the real Iceland. Remember to follow custom and shower nude before swimming. Never bring cameras or phones into the pool or changing areas.

Three favorite public Icelandic pools:

Note: Photos are not allowed of Icelandic public pools.

Laugardalslaug: Iceland’s largest public pool complex is only $8 for entry, and in our opinion, beats the heck out of the Blue Lagoon. There are two huge outdoor pools (one is a lap pool, the other has all sorts of features…basketball hoop, big twisty waterslides, climbing ropes, floating platforms, and water toys), four hot pots of various temperatures, a cold plunge, a huge steam bath, a massage area, and a large kiddie pool area. There are spacious and clean locker facilities and hot showers. On the grounds are also sand volleyball courts, exercise equipment, and a ropes course. Laugardalslaug is located in the suburbs of Reykjavik.

Drangsnes: The public pool on the Steingrimsfjordur fjord in the north has all the usual amenities, with a location right on the sea. Best of all, the town has arranged for free hot pots to be placed and maintained right on the beach, should you not need the added amenities of showers.

Kirkjubaejarklaustur: This public pool has views of the town’s pretty waterfall from the hot pots, plus a nice sized swimming pool with small water slide and a kid’s hot pot/wading area. What we loved about this pool was its local vibe: we had the opportunity to talk with many Icelanders here, and all were welcoming.

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5 Tips for Traveling to Europe With Kids

Traveling to Europe with kids is an exciting, rewarding, and exhausting experience. You’ll create lots of family memories and give your kids invaluable chances to experience other cultures. At the same time, you need a lot more planning and plenty of patience.

Europe with kids

Plan Travel in Advance

It is so important that you do your research. Plan your destinations and transportation on Europe-specific travel platforms like GoEuro before you leave. Decide how you’ll be getting from city to city, whether that be by bus, train, or plane, and book those tickets while you’re still in the states. The last thing you want to deal with is tired, hungry kids while you’re figuring out train tickets in an unfamiliar place where you don’t speak the language. As an alternative, you could book a pre-arranged Europe tour if you want to avoid the hassle of planning.

Concentrate on Fewer Locations

When you’re in Europe, you’ll be tempted to see as many spots as you can during your visit. Focus on getting the most out of just a few locations if you’ll be there for longer than a week, and concentrate on just one if you’ll be there for less than a week.

Planning your transportation through Europe is simpler when you aren’t hopping among five cities in four weeks. Similarly, if you focus on smaller destinations, such as Bath instead of London, you’ll have an easier time exploring with kids. Big cities can overwhelm children, but they’ll adjust to smaller places more quickly.

Leave Room for Downtime

When traveling with adults, you might be able to see four museums and monuments in one day without hailing a single cab. Kids get tired and bored more quickly, though. Plan for downtime, but be open to rescheduling or extending it depending on how your kids are feeling. Otherwise, you might have to cut short a visit to the Louvre or cancel a tour of the Colosseum.

Plan for Emergencies

Kids get lost even when you’re paying close attention. When it happens in a city where you don’t know the language, the experience is especially terrifying. Create contingency plans before you start packing. This might include giving your kids cell phones or GPS devices so you can locate them or telling them to stay put as soon as they realize they’ve lost you. Rick Steves has lots of great ideas for families who want to plan for this kind of emergency.

Europe with kids

Try Not to Check Bags on Flights

When kids are young, they can only carry a small backpack containing a few belongings. You’ll have to carry the rest. In Europe, you’ll be doing a lot of walking. Imagine lugging two or three gigantic suitcases behind you while you walk from the train station to your hotel!

To avoid this situation, pack light. Cut down on toiletries and nix the non-essentials such as hair dryers and excess makeup. Plan to wash clothes while you’re there, and research accommodations that offer laundry facilities. Pack one carry-on per adult to make your trip simpler.

Traveling with adults has its own list of perks, but taking your kids to Europe is a rewarding experience. Plan ahead to design a trip that nobody in your family will soon forget.

Florence Italy at Christmas

Last holiday season, we made a last minute decision to add Florence, Italy to our European family vacation. We arrived in Florence on December 24, Christmas Eve, and left December 27. While planning, I worried that perhaps, spending Christmas in Florence wouldn’t feel festive…after all, their seasonal Christmas markets close before Christmas Day. However, I couldn’t have been more wrong. Florence Italy at Christmas is beautiful! Scroll down for a few tips and plenty of images.

christmas-florence

Florence Italy at Christmas:

We came to Florence from Paris, where the Christmas markets were still in full swing. However, Florence definitely beats out the City of Lights in holidays light displays. Every narrow street of historic Florence featured strings of lights. Each street was different.

florence-italy

  • Florence also has many more Christmas trees than Paris. We found this to be true throughout Italy as opposed to France. Italy, and Florence in particular, also has wonderful nativity scenes.
  • While in Florence for Christmas, look for impromptu Christmas carnivals in various piazzas, including cheap carnival games, street performers, carrousels, and outdoor ice skating rinks.

holidays-in-florence

  • On Christmas Day, expect for museums to be closed. Take walking tours instead, or go to a church service.
  • Try to make reservations for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals ahead of time. Some restaurants will close. For those that remain open, expect them to be busy for Christmas lunch and closed for the evening. Some restaurants will have set menus. Stock up on a few basics at the grocery store so you can make a simple Christmas evening meal in your apartment rental, if that’s an option for you.

florence-nativity-scene

  • Look for elaborate Nativity scenes in Florence, both outside the Duomo and in area churches. It’s ok to step inside churches to see their nativity scenes, provided you don’t go during service hours.
  • Step inside artisan meat and cheese shops and you’ll most likely find generous tasting offerings. We tasted so much cheese, it was a snack!

eating-in-florence

  • Buy a panettone at a grocery store. This traditional Italian holiday bread is similar to a coffee cake, and we picked one up for under €5. We liked it so much, we bought another in Rome!
  • If you want to ice skate at the outdoor rinks, the ice is free, but skate rentals are around €5 per person. For this price, you usually get about 30 minutes. This was enough time for us. The rink we found was open Christmas Day.

ice-skating-florence

Have you been to Florence at Christmas? What was your favorite sight to see?

 

Guide to Paris Christmas markets

One of our favorite memories of a Paris Christmas was touring the many Paris Christmas markets across the city. Some Christmas markets pop up fairly spontaneously from year to year, but there are a few staples you’ll find to be consistent. Here’s where to go to find Paris Christmas markets, plus tips for best enjoyment of these seasonal wonders.

paris-christmas-markets

Top Paris Christmas markets:

The biggies each year are as follows (plus how to get there):

  1. The Concorde area: this largest Christmas market is located at the Concorde, right in the shadow of the seasonal ferris wheel (built for the World’s Fair). It’s at the end of the famous Champs- Élysées, so if you’re already walking down this to see the holiday lights and decor, you’ll end up here.
  2. Under the Eiffel Tower: this was our favorite Christmas market, as it wasn’t too big and wasn’t too small. And the ambiance is amazing under the tower, especially when it sparkles on the hour at night. We visited this market before and after going to the top of the tower.
  3. In the Montmartre area: this market is a bit more ‘working class’, with some touristy stuff tossed in, located under the shadow of Sacre Coeur. Take the metro to the Chateau Rogue stop, or tack this visit on to a tour of Sacre Coeur. You can take the tram up the hill, too.

Paris-christmas-market

Tips for making the most of the Paris Christmas markets:

  • Plan on making a meal of it: We purposely planned our mealtimes around Christmas markets. This is a cheap and delicious way to eat in Paris during the holiday season. At every Christmas market, we could find the staples: crepes, Belgian waffles, baguettes toasted with melted cheese, mulled wine, hot chocolate, and all sorts of candies and nuts.
  • Look for smaller markets: We found a fun yet small Christmas market across the Seine from Notre Dame, by the Latin Quarter. It was only a dozen or so huts, but Santa Claus was there without a line, and the vendors were among the most friendly.

notre-dame

  • Bring cash: at most huts, you’ll need to pay in cash. Give kids coins to spend on their own.
  • Shop for Christmasy souvenirs: During our Christmas visit, we decided to play a game of ‘secret Santa’ within our family. Each family member bought little trinkets and treats at Christmas markets for another member of the family. We had a lot of fun.

paris-christmas-market

  • Look for ice skating rinks: Many Christmas markets include small ice skating rinks. Below the Eiffel Tower, the rink was actually a loop, similar to a track, which skaters used as though on a trail. If you combine an Eiffel Tower Christmas market trip with a ride up the tower, stop and skate at the 1st floor landing ON the tower. It’s free!
  • Try the vin chaud: This mulled wine may not be made with the highest quality wine, but it’s piping hot and seasoned nicely. For kids, the chocolat chaud is the way to go.
  • Look for public restrooms: Restrooms are in short supply in Paris, but we always found one at major Christmas markets.
  • Almost all Paris Christmas markets open the third week of November and close January 1. Hours are generally noon to 10 pm.

What is your favorite Paris Christmas market?

How to visit the Paris catacombs with kids

One attraction near the top of my teen’s list of things to do in Paris was the Paris Catacombs. This underground network lies in the heart of the city, spanning two km. It’s creepy and fascinating and toured completely on one’s own, unless you opt for a guide. We recommend it, as the actual visit only takes about 45 minutes and can easily be added to a Paris itinerary with teens or older kids, but there are many things to know ahead of time to make your day run smoothly. Here’s how to visit the Paris catacombs with kids:

paris-catacombs

You can start on the catacombs’ official website, which will tell you the essential details, but it won’t tell you the number one bit of information you need: to tour, you’ll be given a timed ticket, which involves two different lines and waiting times unless you either 1. buy online, or 2. get there right at opening.

We did not buy ahead of time OR get there early, and this was the process:

  1. Start in a queue to get your timed ticket. You don’t pay at this time. It will be confusing to figure out where this line is or where it starts, as the entrance to the catacombs looks like a boarding line for an airplane…lots of people merging and clustering without a clear queue. Ask any of the officials for the timed ticket line until you find it.
  2. When you get to the front of this line (on our visit, this took about 30 minutes), you’ll be given a slip of paper saying what time to come back. We were there on a pretty busy day and our timed ticket was for 3 hours later. Note: if you arrive in the later part of the afternoon, you’ll probably be told to come back the next day.
  3. When you come back at your timed ticket hour, you will need to show the slip to the official at the front of the entrance and he or she will direct you vaguely in the direction of a vague line. They let in about 50 people at a time (for a total of 200 or so in the catacomb network at once), so you’ll basically be grouping with all the other people who have the same time as you. The wait isn’t long; maybe another 15-20 minutes.

paris-catacombs

Note: don’t try to come AFTER your time indicated. We were 30 minutes late, and it took some persistence to be allowed in.

Once inside, you’ll pay at the counter and descend the staircase to the underground level. Once there, you’re on your own to walk the (quite long) distance through an underground tunnel to where to opens out into a wider space. Here, you’ll see some signage talking about the history of the catacombs, then the catacombs themselves.

touring-catacombs

What to expect in the catacombs:

Once you’re in the catacombs themselves, there’s no signage or explanations of anything, apart from a few very generalized dates. Stacked bones line the walkways, primarily made up of femurs, tibias, and skulls. Some are in interesting patterns and geometric shapes, but most are just lining the walkway like a wall. Certainly, it’s an interesting sight, especially for kids and teens but they are human remains, which gives them a decidedly creepy tone. Parents will need to use judgement as to whether their kids are ready for this.

I wished there was more explanation of the remains, but the point made is that these are unknown people, moved here as needed to make room elsewhere. Most of the remains are from the era of plagues when mass graves were necessary. At least, that’s as much as we could put together with little information. If this is a site and subject that interests you greatly, I advise booking a private tour. I know Viator.com has one.

When you arrive at the catacombs, whether you have timed tickets from booking online or need to stand in the queue for timed tickets, expect a certain level of chaos. The official website does not explain the ticketing process well (or at all, really), so many visitors are confused and frustrated. Of course, this would be simple to fix, but when we heard a visitor suggest information be placed on the website, the ticket operator simply chuckled. I guess it will never happen.

paris-catacombs

A few more logistics:

  • The stairs both going down and coming up from the catacombs are steep and long. There is no alternative, such as an elevator. Needless to say, this site is not handicap-friendly.
  • The temperature is 14 degrees C, so wear a light sweater or coat.
  • There is no bathroom or anywhere to store a backpack.

Visitor numbers are restricted to 200 at any time. Admission may be delayed for a short time during busy periods.

Cost and hours:

Open daily from 10am to 8pm, except Mondays and some public holidays. Last admission: 7pm. To buy tickets online, try this website. Adults are €12, kids under 18 are free.

Directions:

The catacombs are located at 1, avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy – 75014 Paris. You’ll want to take Metro line 4 to the Cité stop.

Three medieval towns in Northern France to tour with kids

Paris may always be a good idea, but families can’t go wrong exploring the French countryside as well. While charming medieval towns, many of which are UNESCO sites, dot the map across France, travelers will find plenty to choose from within reasonable driving distance from the capital city. Rent a car and plan to spend 2-3 days exploring the following small to medium-sized medieval cities in Northern France:

Rouen:

rouen-france

Start in Rouen, the mid-sized city of Joan of Arc and Monet…how much more French can you get? Rouen is the center of Normandy, and an easy drive up the A13 from Paris. Best known for its English medieval history, William the Conqueror had a significant presence here, as did Richard the Lionhearted. During the  Hundred Years War, Joan of Arc was tried and put to death by French churchmen in English-ruled Rouen in 1431.

Families with older kids interested in this history should make the new Historial Jeanne d’Arc museum, next to the cathedral, a first stop (it opened in 2015). Next, tour several of the many great religious buildings in Rouen…it’s not called the ‘city of a hundred spires’ for nothing. Learn more about Monet’s Cathedral Series at the Musee des Beaux-Arts-Rouen, a stop worthy of at least a few hours. The historic quarter is where you’ll want to stay for the many shops and restaurants as well.

 Étretat:

etretat-france

Beyond Rouen to the north, Étretat is a coastal town in Upper Normandy with charm to match its natural splendor. Visitors can walk through the narrow, picturesque roads and arrive at dramatic oceanside cliffs and natural arches…always a surprise. Definitely take time to tour the Notre Dame de la Garde cathedral overlooking the water, and take a hike along the Alabaster Coast. Save space in your itinerary to sample the local mussels, too!

If you’re planning to tour Normandy WWII history and D-Day beaches with older kids during your trip through Northern France, Étretat makes for a scenic and relaxing ‘holiday’ location afterward, to soothe the soul, so to speak.

Montreuil sur Mer:

montreuil-france

Next, head north up the French coast to Montreuil, a small town south of Boulogne sur Mer. Why visit? Montreuil is one of France’s still-preserved walled towns, fully encircled by three kilometers of ramparts dating from the Middle Ages to the seventeenth century. Start by walking round the ramparts, starting at the Citadel, the massive fortification to deter invaders (successful for many centuries). Keep in mind that while Montreuil was once a seaside town, it’s now about 15 kilometers inland (thanks to shifting coastal waters).

Part of Victor Hugo’s Les Miserables was set in Montreuil, a fact the town definitely tries to capitalize on (as would I!). History is woven into all parts of the small but quaint downtown area, but visitors just sort of feel it, instead of being force-fed it. There are not major museums to visit…rather, everywhere you turn is historically significant, old, and understated.

All three towns on this itinerary can be toured within just a few days, giving your family a nice break from city life in Paris. En route from town to town, you’ll definitely see quintessential Normandy: hedgerows, cows, stone chapels, and thatched roof homes winding around narrow streets. Enjoy!

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medieval-towns

This post was written in partnership with Alamo Europe.