European family travel - Pitstops for Kids

Iceland camper van road trip tips

July 7, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

Iceland has become a popular family vacation destination for many reasons: it is every bit as breathtakingly beautiful as it looks in photographs, there’s essentially no language barrier, it’s extremely family-friendly, and the outdoor recreation and sightseeing is almost endless.

What Iceland is not: cheap. Standard hotels can cost families as much as $400 per night on top of expensive rental car fees (especially if you need a 4×4 car for rough roads). Dining in Iceland is very expensive as well; fast food meals at a basic grill during the time of our 2017 trip were about $15 U.S. per person, and standard sit-down restaurant meals were closer to $45-50 per person. The solution: take an Iceland camper van road trip and combine your lodging and car rental cost and eliminate your restaurant dining out cost. Ready for Iceland camper van road trip tips? Let’s get started!

Start with your camper van rental:

The first stage of planning your Iceland road trip is booking your camper van rental. We used Kuku Campers, one of the largest camper van rental companies in Iceland. Kuku Campers offers just about every size and type of camper van, ranging from small vans that sleep 2-3 people to the larger style we rented, which sleeps five (both are Class C, which don’t require any additional training or know-how to drive). You can also opt between 2×2 or 4×4.

Kuku 2×2 category C camper

We picked this 2×2 van for five people (click on the link to see detailed interior photos) which cost approximately $1800 for nine days ($200 per night). This cost was significantly less than we’d spend on hotels and a rental car. Kuku Campers offers this van in standard (stick shift) or automatic. We opted for standard, as it was cheaper, and I am comfortable driving a stick shift.

Note: Do you need a 4×4 vehicle? If you’re a regular reader of Pit Stops for Kids, you know we’re a pretty adventurous family. We rented a 2×2 van, and were able to access everything we wanted, and more. You need a 4×4 vehicle only if you plan to drive F roads (Iceland’s most rugged dirt roads), which is needed if you plan to backpack or hike deep in the interior.

The features and configuration of our camper van:

In the front were two bucket seats (the driver’s seat and the front passenger seat). Behind those seats was the kitchen area: a countertop/food prep surface with sink and faucet, storage area for a portable stove/cook top, electric refrigerator (which runs when the car is running), dishes and kitchen utensils and silverware, a large water storage container, and a pantry area for food. Behind the kitchen was the main compartment of the van, which had a padded bench seat in a U shape, surrounded by a roomy kitchen table. Above this was a sleeping bunk. At night, the table and bench seat easily folded down to become a second sleeping area. The bottom slept three, and the top slept two. During the day, passengers could sit on the bench seat with seatbelt while the van was on the road.

Lots of space: to the front of this photo would be the kitchen area.

In addition to the running water, which ran from a hose from the water container to the kitchen sink, the van had two overhead lights and a nighttime heater (which could be run when the van was turned off). There is no bathroom in the van, but this isn’t a problem (we’ll get to that soon). We found sufficient storage in the van for our bags under the bench seats and at the very back of the van, in addition to smaller storage areas above the front seats and above the kitchen. Lastly, there were useful hooks to hold jackets and rain pants, as well as curtains to pull around the windows at night. These hung on elastic cords, which we used to hang additional items like wet towels and swimsuits.

But was the van hard to drive?

At first, a little bit, yes. I don’t ever drive anything larger than a minivan at home, so for me, it took a day to get comfortable driving something taller and wider. Icelandic roads are narrower than US roads, so there is definitely a learning curve. I also needed time to get used to backing up the van (though it was far easier than trying to back up a van with a trailer). By Day 2, I was quite comfortable. Overall, driving the van was no big deal, even on dirt and gravel roads, though the van certainly got dirty!

Stopping to make a snack and take photos on a gravel road. There are plenty of turn-outs to use!

The van took diesel fuel, which seemed to be easily available at every gas station, and it cost me about $160 to fill the tank. We drove for eight days, I filled up twice and topped off once, and I spent a total of $360 on gas. At all campgrounds and parking lots for trails, scenic overlooks, and historic sites, there was ample room to park the van. The only place I had trouble navigating parking was in downtown Reykjavik, and even there, I managed (but it was stressful).

Next plan your trip! Here’s what to expect:

I’m going to say something now that I never say on this site: don’t over-plan. If you allow your itinerary to stay flexible, you’ll be able to advantage of all the many moments of spontaneity possible in Iceland. There are natural wonders and historic sites every few kilometers at times; you can’t do it all, but you can decide what to do in the moment. We planned a general route which included the south, west, and east. We purposely didn’t travel the entire Ring Road because with only eight full days on the road, we wanted to spend more time on side roads than Route 1.

Waterfall at the base of one of our campsites.

I absolutely loved having our Kuku Camper, because of the freedom it offered. Every day, we traveled WITH our lodging and dining, so we never had to worry about getting to an exact place to eat or sleep each night. In Iceland, especially in the rural areas (which is most areas), we found that restaurants and shops closed relatively early in the day, even in the peak of summer. We were hard pressed to find dining options open after 6 pm, so we loved the ability to picnic our meals anytime, anyplace. We got into a routine of making breakfast in our camper at the campground in the morning, making a picnic or packed lunch to enjoy out and about, and then stopping at one of Iceland’s many, many scenic overlooks to BBQ or cook our dinner on the road. We arrived at each campground at night well-fed and ready to make camp. While we were driving, if someone was hungry, they could simply make a sandwich on the road, and if we decided at the last minute to detour to see or do something, we never had to care about missing reservations.

Iceland outdoor picnic!

The most unnatural thing to me, as a natural planner, was the fact that you do not need to make campground reservations. If you’ve tried to camp in popular campgrounds in the US in summer, you know this simply isn’t true at home. But in Iceland, they really do mean it when they say their campgrounds do not fill up. They really don’t. Not anywhere. Not ever.

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Italy with kids: Cinque Terre itinerary for families

January 9, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

On a trip to Italy with kids, you’re likely to devote a good deal of time to art and history in Florence and archeological ruins in Rome. Afterward, escape the intensity of the city with this three-day Cinque Terre itinerary for families.

Day One: Florence to Cinque Terre

We took a morning train from Florence to Lucca and spent several hours walking around this lovely walled city. It’s definitely worth the side trip. There is a baggage check place right across from the station where we left our bags. From there you can just walk into the town or rent a bike from the same place.

Then we took a train from Lucca to La Spezia (you can get one ticket that is Florence to La Spezia and just get off and on again) where you change trains for the towns of Cinque Terre. Be sure to get off at La Spezia Centrale station, not La Spezia Milgliarina.

In La Spezia, make sure you take a local train that stops in Riomaggiore (Genoa-La Spezia line). Check the train schedules because they don’t all stop at the little Cinque Terre towns.

We stayed 2 nights at Affittacamere Le Giare which I found through Trip Advisor and booked through Booking.com. Being off-season many places were closed. But this was a wonderful little apartment where our host was waiting for us and made dinner recommendations. We had time for a walk around the town using Rick Steves’ guide.

Note: you can also go from Milan to Cinque Terre.

Day Two: Village to village hiking

We awoke to rain but it cleared up by 9:00 and we found a café in town for breakfast. All the Cinque Terre villages cater to American tourists who come in droves in the summer so there are many cafes trying to serve American or English breakfasts.

You can go from village to village three different ways: by train, hike or by boat. Boats only run in season (and we visited in winter) and most of the train trip is through tunnels, obscuring views between village stops, so we opted to hike. The entire hike is approximately eight miles one-way, which is do-able with older kids and teens, when broken up into a leisurely day.

The first two sections of the hiking trail were closed: Riomaggiore to Manarola is only a 20-minute walk and has been closed for years; the second section, Manarola to Corniglia takes a little longer but is less scenic.

We took the train from Riomaggiore to Corniglia and started our hike from there. Finding the correct trail out of Corniglia toward Vernazza proved to be a bit of a challenge but after climbing a long set of switchback steps up to the town center, we found the red and white stripes on the stonewalls that serve as trail markers.

Tip: It’s a beautiful hike up out of Corniglia and you are able to look back at the village perched on the cliffs. Stunning!

The hike from Corniglia to Vernazza takes about an hour and a half but it is rocky, with some stone steps and somewhat hilly. You hike through vineyards and ravines. No one was on the trail when we were there, which made it pretty magical. In summer the crowds must really take away from the remote beauty, which is why we enjoyed an off-season visit. In another hour we came to Vernazza where we stopped for a delicious pizza lunch at a busy café right by the harbor.

Finding the continuing trail from Vernazza to Monterosso was easy. But the hike to Monterosso was the most difficult of all. It took us about an hour and a half with lots of ups and downs and muddy areas. But most of it is along cliffs with amazing views.

Monterosso is more of a resort town than the others. It is built on flat land and divided into two parts—the old and new. There are long stretches of beach and umbrella rentals, etc. It is also the only Cinque Terre village that is on a main train route. It was our least favorite.

To return to Riomaggiore, we took the train (they come about every hour, more often in summer) and rode it straight through from Monterosso to Riomaggiore. We were back in time to shower and rest up before a nice dinner by the harbor.

Day Three: Manarola back to Rome

We were headed back to Rome today for our morning flight out the next day, but before we left Riomaggiore we took the train to the second village that we could not hike to due to trail closures, Manarola. What a perfect morning outing! We found a little café for some pastries, but not much else was open. It was very quiet. Rick Steves’ walking guide took us up through the town and into the vineyards and graveyards with stone terraces.

We took the train back to Riomaggiore, got our bags and then took another train to La Spezia where we changed trains to get back to the Rome Termini.

In summary:

Visit Lucca coming or going to Cinque Terre
Walk as much of the trail as you can and what you can’t, go back to by train and visit the villages that way.
Don’t think you’ll have views on the train because you don’t.
Pick one village as a base because they are all so close together.
Go off-season. We were told April was the best.

Guide to Iceland’s southern coast

July 31, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

It’s easy to find advice and guides to Iceland’s famed Golden Circle, and yes, this well-trafficked and easy route from Reykjavik is definitely worth doing. However, beyond the Golden Circle, there’s so much to see in Southern Iceland. Here’s where to go and what to see on Iceland’s southern coast along the Ring Road.

Touring Iceland’s Southern Coast

From Reykjavik, take the Ring Road (Route 1) and head southeast, doing the following. You’ll want at least 2-3 days to enjoy this region at your leisure, though it is possible to drive out and back in one long day with very few stops (not recommended). Here’s where to go:

Hveragerði:

This town 45 km from Reykjavik is home to the wonderful Reykjadalur hot springs river hike. We’ve included it in our post on Iceland hot springs off the beaten path. Follow the signage through the main street of this tiny town to find the trailhead, and then hike 3.5 km (one way) up into the hills to find the hot springs river. The reward of the steaming bath that awaits makes the hike well worth the effort! Even young kids can do this hike with enough time to take it slow (it does get steep).

Hvolsvöllur:

Continue past the pretty town of Selfoss and stop at Hvolsvöllur to visit the LAVA Centre. We’ve included details in our post on Iceland national parks. This brand new center does a great job of explaining the volcanic activity of Iceland, which will be very useful information as you tour the natural formations of the southern end of the island.

Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss:

These waterfalls are definitely worth the stop. As you drive, you’ll see plenty of others, but most are on private property, behind the quaint farms of this region. At Seljalandsfoss, you can walk behind the falls, and explore two additional on a walking path to the left. At Skogafoss, you can hike up the steep stairs to the top of the waterfall, or, if you’re ambitious, you can continue on the start of the Fimmvörðuháls trail. This 25 km trail between Skógar and Þórsmörk is divided into three sections, the first of which is called Waterfall Way. Families can do this as an out-and-back on nice days. (To do the whole trail, a GPS unit or guide is necessary, and most people do it in two days.) Also at Skogafoss is a very good museum: standard admission gets you into a transportation museum and history/folk museum, or you can buy a reduced ticket for just the outdoor buildings of the folk museum side, which include historic sod farm buildings, a schoolhouse, church, and outbuildings. We recommend this option.

Vik:

This little coastal town at the very southern end of Iceland is known for its black sand beaches at Reynisfjara. The turn off Route 1 for the beach is just west of town, and a great place to see the basalt column geological formations Iceland is known for. You can also see puffins, apparently, but we only saw other sea birds making their nests in the cliffs. Vik has a public swimming pool (as do most Icelandic towns) and is a good place to refuel.

Kirkjubæjarklaustur:

We loved this little village, which a lovely waterfall at the end of town (take the hike up it to the impressive lake at the top) and Kirkjugolf (church floor). This natural rock formation was once mistaken for a manmade church floor. It’s located just a few meters down the road from the N1 gas station and easy to access.

Skaftafell:

The most accessible gateway to the largest glacier in Iceland (and Europe), Skaftafell houses the visitor center for the national park, Vatnagokull. Families can take lots of great day hikes here with views of the glacier and Skaftafoss (waterfall), or can hire a guide for a glacier walk (it’s not permissible or safe to walk on the glacier on one’s own). It’s also home to impressive ice cave touring. There’s a nice campground here, if you want to make Skaftafell a turn-around point.

Have you toured the Southern Coast of Iceland? Where do you recommend stopping?

Beyond the Blue Lagoon: Iceland hot springs off the beaten path

July 26, 2017 By Amy Hagstrom

Yep, we went to Iceland for eight days and never went to the Blue Lagoon. Why pay a crazy entry fee to go to an overcrowded geothermal pool, when so many remote, beautiful, and FREE pools exist all over Iceland?

During our camper van road trip in Iceland, we dipped our toes in steaming water every single day, and never paid an entry fee of more than $25 (and usually paid nothing at all).

Where to find Iceland hot springs off the beaten path:

Reykjadalur hot springs river:

In the south, just about 40 minutes outside of Reykjavik, the small town of Hvergerdi offers a 3.5 kilometer hike into the geothermal hills to a hot springs river. Yes, it’s well worth the hike. You’ll climb upward pretty steeply for the first km or so, then work your way up and down over hills with lovely views of the valley below. Eventually, you’ll see steam billowing up, and you’ll quicken your pace, because you’ll know you’re close! At the river, there’s a boardwalk with entry points along the small stream, and a few wooden walls that serve as changing areas. If you follow the boardwalk up, you’ll find the hottest water (so hot it’s almost painful), and as you walk down, you’ll find cooler water (closer to 35-37 C). It’s a lot of fun to move from section to section feeling the different temperatures.

If you don’t want to change behind a wall, you can change in the small bathrooms at the little cafe at the start of the hike, or just wear your swimsuit under your hiking wear. Be sure to bring lots of layers, including rain wear, as there’s no protection from the elements (similar to all over Iceland). The hot springs river is free, and does get crowded on the trail (though even in peak season, we found plenty of space in the river to soak).

To get here: Take Route 1 (Ring Road) from Reykjavik to Hvergerdi. Drive through town following the Reykjadalur signage until you get to a gravel road ending in a parking lot.

Seljavallalaug Hidden Hot Spring:

This one may not be so hidden anymore, but it’s still uncrowded. This geothermal pool is located in the middle of nowhere in a tiny valley with green mountains rising dramatically up all around it. The pool was made near the turn of the 20th century, for the purpose of teaching Icelandic children to swim (before the 1920s, unbelievably, most Icelanders could not swim). It has a single pool and rudimentary changing rooms (unisex…it gets interesting). This pool gets some criticism on TripAdvisor and the like, with people calling it dirty. It’s not dirty: it’s rich in algae, natural to Icelandic hot springs. The hike to the pool is only about one km, and our only complaint is that the water is a bit on the cool side (around 35 degrees). Toward the southern end of the pool where the geothermal water flows in, it’s closer to 40 degrees. On a warm day, this is fine, but on the cold, sleeting day we visited, it was painful to get out! This pool is FREE.

How to get here: From Route 1, turn down road 242 in the south. Follow the dirt road straight (don’t turn right) and you’ll get to a parking lot with an unused pool about 1/4 mile in. The hike is short into the valley (you can’t see the pool from the parking area though).

Laudar campsite hot pot:

This adorable hot pot (hot tub) is located in the Laudar campsite in west Iceland. The parking lot is at the Hotel Edda, and the walk is just a few meters. There’s a quaint changing hut (unisex, but fewer people are here) and the water is a perfect 38 degrees. You can camp onsite, too, if desired. This hot pot is FREE.

How to get here: From Route 1, take 60 all the way up through the isolated farmlands until you’re above the town of Budardalur. Follow the sign to Laudar.

Secret Lagoon:

So the Secret Lagoon is no secret, but it can be found just outside of the town of Fludir near the Golden Circle. You’ll find a large pool half-formed by natural rock, fed hot water from bubbling geysers nearby. It’s the most expensive pool we visited ($25 per adult), probably because of its proximity to the Golden Circle and its tourism traffic. No matter: it’s worth spending a few hours here.

How to get here: Take road 30 to Fludir. The sign is just before you enter town. Go down a dirt road for just about a mile.

Hot pot of Flokalaundar:

If you’re willing to drive about two hours (mostly on dirt) from Reykholar in the Westfjords, you’ll arrive at a hot pot nestled right against the sea. Do as the locals do and jump between the warm water (around 38 degrees) and the freezing ocean and back. This hot pot is larger than Laudar but a bit busier. No changing rooms…change in your car or camper. There’s a small parking lot right nearby.

How to get here: From Route 1, take 60 and follow it all the way up into the fjords. Be sure to have a full tank of gas, as there are few services before you reach Flokalaundar. Plan on narrow, steep dirt road for part of the drive. Is it worth it? Yes.

Tip: Can’t get to a natural hot springs one day? Look for a public Icelandic pool! Every town we drove through had their own (look for the water and swimmer signage), and each cost less than $10-$12. Inside each complex, you’ll find a geothermal fed warm outdoor pool (often with waterslides and other features), hot pots, and a steam bath, plus nice changing rooms and hot showers. Talk with locals here, and get to know the real Iceland. Remember to follow custom and shower nude before swimming. Never bring cameras or phones into the pool or changing areas.

Three favorite public Icelandic pools:

Note: Photos are not allowed of Icelandic public pools.

Laugardalslaug: Iceland’s largest public pool complex is only $8 for entry, and in our opinion, beats the heck out of the Blue Lagoon. There are two huge outdoor pools (one is a lap pool, the other has all sorts of features…basketball hoop, big twisty waterslides, climbing ropes, floating platforms, and water toys), four hot pots of various temperatures, a cold plunge, a huge steam bath, a massage area, and a large kiddie pool area. There are spacious and clean locker facilities and hot showers. On the grounds are also sand volleyball courts, exercise equipment, and a ropes course. Laugardalslaug is located in the suburbs of Reykjavik.

Drangsnes: The public pool on the Steingrimsfjordur fjord in the north has all the usual amenities, with a location right on the sea. Best of all, the town has arranged for free hot pots to be placed and maintained right on the beach, should you not need the added amenities of showers.

Kirkjubaejarklaustur: This public pool has views of the town’s pretty waterfall from the hot pots, plus a nice sized swimming pool with small water slide and a kid’s hot pot/wading area. What we loved about this pool was its local vibe: we had the opportunity to talk with many Icelanders here, and all were welcoming.

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Normandy in a day: What to see with 12 hours by car

May 23, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

If you can carve out a free day during a visit to Paris, it’s well-worth your time to explore Normandy. While this region of France deserves a week or more of your attention, families can hit some highlights with just a day. We’ve written about taking kids on a D-Day site tour from Paris with Viator, and while I highly recommend going this route if you can’t rent a car, it does take longer to visit Normandy by bus, and there will be things you will wish you had the freedom to explore. Plus, you can go further afield by car, exploring as far as the western coast.

Normandy in a day…start with D-Day sites:

By exploring Normandy by car, on your own, you’ll definitely save time. From the center of Paris, it takes about 2.5 hours to reach Caen, which we consider the biggest metropolis within Normandy. You’ll want to stop here to check out the excellent Caen-Normandie Memorial museum. Located at the site of a German bunker and stronghold during the French occupation, this modern museum covers WWII very much in depth, from pre-war time through the liberation.

Note: It does cover the holocaust in detail, including Jewish ghettos and camps, so prepare children. In fact, I’d recommend this whole tour only to families with kids age 10 and up. If you want to skip sections: It’s hard to bypass details because exhibits are intermixed, but the area downstairs towards the end of the hall have the most holocaust stories. The violence of the D-Day battles are much less graphic, even in the film.

From Caen, you’re only about 30 minutes away from D-Day beaches and cemeteries, and the route from here is decidedly more picturesque (from Paris to Caen, you’re on the interstate). Start by driving to Pointe du Hoc, which will land you right on the coastline. From there, you can easily drive along the coast to Omaha Beach, and Juno Beach, stopping at the national cemetery as well (located at Omaha). The route is charming, with villages to stop and explore and fields and hedgerows (though it’s good to remember that these hedgerows were sites of one-on-one type battles during the war). At the beaches, it’s permitted to walk along the sand and even wade in the surf; it feels a bit odd to do so given the sobering history of the area, but you’ll also need a break from the museums and exhibits to get fresh air and let kids play a bit.

Seeing Mont St. Michel:

If you’re truly ambitious, or have the luxury of an overnight in Normandy, head along the Normandy coastline southwest to Mont St. Michel. (As an alternative, you can easily get to Mont St. Michel from Caen if you’re not touring D-Day sites.)

If you have young kids, I’d recommend seeing Mont St. Michel perhaps in place of D-Day sites, as this island fortress resembles a fairy tale castle like no other. An abbey built by monks in the 6th century, Mont St. Michel and the surrounding village is touristy now, but somehow still feels authentic. When arriving by car (rather than tour bus), park in the car lot and take a provided shuttle to the entrance. Be sure to get an audio guide if not a tour guide; you’ll miss a lot of the history otherwise.

The best parts of Mont St. Michel to kids is the maze-like hallways and tunnels through the abbey, and the ‘mudflats’ that surround it. This squishy, muddy sand is very fun to play in (bring rain boots if you have that ability). You can dine anywhere in town, though you’ll be paying tourist prices (but the seafood is so good, you won’t care).

The drive from Mont St. Michel back to Paris is about 3.5 hours, so you’ll add an hour to your drive ‘home’. Realistically, you’ll need to decide between D-Day beaches and Mont St. Michel, or stay overnight in Caen to see both.

What you’ll lose and gain by road tripping to Normandy on your own:

You’ll lose a ready-made tour guide: our Viator.com tour guide during our Normandy trip by bus really helped us all grasp the history and significance of the area. If you go solo, be sure to pick up a good guidebook, and prepare kids ahead of time.
You’ll gain a bit of stress: No doubt about it, it’s nice to have someone else navigate and drive, especially on foreign roads.
You’ll lose planned stops, including lunch: On our Viator tour, we were able to have a private lunch in a D-Day museum, which was a special experience.
You’ll gain the freedom to explore villages and find a quiet lunch of your own.

This post was written in partnership with Alamo. All opinions remain our own.

Ireland Road Trip for Adventurous Families on a Budget

March 2, 2016 By Sharlene Earnshaw

If you’re considering an Ireland vacation you would be forgiven in thinking that the ‘land of saints & scholars’ is all about bus tours, ancient ruins, and pretty scenery. And therefore, maybe a bit dull. You couldn’t be further from the truth! While Ireland is known for its history and stunning views, outdoor enthusiasts come to her emerald shores for world class hiking, cycling, and surfing.

While Ireland is known as an expensive destination, you can do an Ireland road trip on a budget, in comfort, and filled with adventure – and maybe a few castles.

Two Week Ireland Road Trip for Adventurous Families

Though Ireland is a small country, I don’t recommend trying to ‘see it all’ when you visit – you’ll do far too much driving and not enough enjoying. This itinerary leads you in a semi-circular exploration along Ireland’s southern coastline with stops and activities in some of the country’s most beautiful and unspoiled areas. By no means is this itinerary exhaustive – but it is enough to begin laying plans for a magical Ireland vacation!

Tip: to avoid backtracking I recommend booking flights that arrive in Dublin and depart from Shannon (or vice versa), though you can easily arrive and depart from the same airport if costs differ greatly.

Day 1: Arrive in Ireland

The majority of US flights arrive in Dublin in the early morning hours. While your body may be begging for rest it’s important to get on ‘Ireland time’ as quickly as possible – and the best way to do that is to get active! Unless Dublin is a ‘must visit’ for your family, pick up your rental car and bypass the city for the beauty of County Wicklow. Explore the magnificent grounds of Powerscourt Estate – the stunning gardens are a perfect place to let the flight stress melt away. The on-site Avoca Café will fill the gnawing in your tummy with fresh, locally sourced food. Eat at the estate or get a picnic to go and make your way to Ireland’s tallest waterfall where you will also find beautiful hikes and a lovely playground. From Powerscourt continue into the Wicklow Mountains, where you will spend two nights.

Lodging: For a truly budget option, the Glendalough International Youth Hostel is clean and spacious, with family rooms available. Bracken B&B is within walking distance of the Monastic City of Glendalough and the Wicklow Way walking routes.

Tip: Irish B&Bs include the famous (and filling) Irish Breakfast! You’ll be set til mid-afternoon after eating one of these!

Day 2: Explorations in Wicklow

The Monastic City of Glendalough, in the heart of the Wicklow Mountains National Park is well worth your time. Explore the 6^th century settlement and hike along woodland paths to St. Kevin’s cell and the Poulanass Waterfall. Walking trails through the Wicklow Mountains range in length and difficulty, but there is no finer way to spend a nice Irish day.

Tip: Use the interactive map at Ireland Family Vacations to fill in the gaps of your itinerary!

Days 3-4 (option 1)

From Wicklow you have a couple of really great options, depending on where your interest lie. For a wonderful taste of medieval Ireland, venture inland to Kilkenny and Tipperary for 2 nights.

Lodging: The self-catering cottages of Tir na nOg and Brigadoon near Cahir are spacious and perfectly located for exploring.

History abounds here. Kilkenny is a wonderfully walkable city. Kilkenny Castle is the royal palace of your imagination, while the ‘Medieval Mile’ brings the city’s history to life. If sport fishing is of interest, be sure to plan an afternoon at Jerpoint Park, where wild salmon and Brown Trout fill the river.

Sports minded? Then be sure to reserve your spots at The Kilkenny Way, a two hour experience which takes you into the 3000 year old sport of Hurling. Outdoor explorations around the Rock of Cashel, Cahir Castle, Kells Priory, and Jerpoint Abbey – as well as Kilkenny’s food and craft trails will more than fill two days.

Days 3-4 (option 2)

If Blarney Castle is on your ‘must see’ list, drop south to County Cork from Glendalough. If you’ve a taste for whiskey be sure to stop at Midleton for the Jameson Whiskey Experience. Don’t worry- it’s family friendly.

Any animal lovers in the family? Fota Wildlife Park is definitely worth a stop. The 70 acre wildlife park is open air, no thick glass walls between you and the animals.

Tip: The VIP Family Experience is well worth the splurge if you’ve a budding zoologist!

Lodging: The White House Blarney is perfectly placed for touring this area. Be sure to enquire about the 25% children’s discount. For an ocean view, cliff walk, and easy access to Blue Flag Garryvoe Beach choose Castle Farm, just north of Cork City.

Blarney Castle deserves half a day as the extensive gardens- including the fascinating Poison Garden and the Rock Close- are incredible. Plan a visit to the seaside town of Kinsale. Arrive early enough for a Historic Stroll before heading out on a tour of the bay, where you’ll get a great overview of the seaside walks. Don’t leave Kinsale without eating- it’s known as the ‘foodie capital of Ireland’.

Days 5-7

Didn’t make it into Cork City yet? Do that before heading to West Cork. Be sure to stop at the English Market for a few meal necessities or visit Cobh, the last port of call of the Titanic.

Lodging: Book a Luxury or Family Pod at Top of the Rock Pod Pairc. Enjoy the fun farm animals, evenings by the fire pit, and stunning location. Luxury pods have a small kitchenette while the walking centre features a full, shared kitchen. Need a bit more space? Consider a cabin at Waterfall Alpaca Farm.

Outdoor activities abound here! Local walks include the Pilgrim’s Way and the Alpaca Waterfall Walk. Farther afield the incredible Sheep’s Head Peninsula and Mizen Head, the most southerly point in Ireland, are spectacular. In nearby Bantry you will find horseback riding, whale watching, kayaking, and departure points for local islands.

Days 8-10

Leaving Cork you’ll enter ‘The Kingdom’ of County Kerry. You’ll soon see why most Ireland itineraries include a few days here!

Lodging: Fáilte Hostel in the charming village of Kenmare has spacious family rooms and a 1:30am curfew has rowdy guests bunking elsewhere. Salmon Leap Farm, a bit closer to Killarney, can arrange local activities including horse trekking, angling, guided walks, angling, and guided hill walking.

Famed for the spectacular Ring of Kerry, Killarney is a tourist hot spot. And you’ll see why as there is so much to do. Jaunting cart rides here are wonderful- choose a ride in Killarney National Park or the Gap of Dunloe- the jarveys are filled with stories; it’s up to you to decipher the truth from the blarney!

Plan a day to explore either the Ring of Kerry or the Dingle Peninsula. Both are wonderful, filled with history, hikes, and hidden beaches. For a truly exhilarating activity, try coasteering, which includes rock climbing, caving, and jumping into the ocean (thankfully you’ll have a wetsuit!)

Looking for adventures a bit less adrenaline-filled? Do a bit of surfing on Inch Beach, go underground at Crag Cave, fly a hawk at Killarney Falconry, or spend the day hiking in Killarney National Park. The farthest reaches of the Dingle Peninsula are a Gaeltacht, where Irish is still spoken. In town many of the shops have a small signs stating Gaelige á labhairt anseo – Irish spoken here.

Days 11-13

It’s time for the final leg of your Irish adventure, and we’ll end in fine style in County Clare. You have your choice of routes- either through Limerick city (if so, do plan to spend an afternoon at Bunratty Castle & Folk Park) or along the coast via Shannon Ferry.

Lodging: Doolin Hostel is perfectly located for touring the west of Ireland. Spacious family rooms and a policy against hen & stag parties guarantee a peaceful stay.

From Doolin it feels as if all of Ireland is at your feet. Walk along the crashing Atlantic Ocean to the Cliffs of Moher. Spend days exploring the Burren – guided and self-guided walks offer everything from foraging to archeology to ancient lore. And don’t miss the Burren Food Trail! Most locations – farms, gardens, bakeries, creameries, and restaurants- welcome visitors to learn about their local offerings and get a taste.

The Aran Islands, another Gaeltacht, are a short boat ride from Doolin Pier and a terrific day trip for walking or cycling. Your cruise back to Doolin may even include a side trip to the base of the Cliffs of Moher.

Active adventures are found a bit further south in Lahinch where Lahinch Adventures offers surfing, rock climbing, archery, cycling, kayaking, and hill walking.

If you’ve not yet visited a traditional Irish Pub for live music, Doolin is the place to do it. And go ahead and take the kids – an evening at the public house is a family friendly activity!

Day 14

Your flight leaves today. It’s difficult to say goodbye to Ireland, but hopefully you’re taking home lasting memories and a desire to return!

Note: Not including Northern Ireland in this itinerary was quite deliberate. As ‘the North’ is part of the UK costs are 2-3 times higher there due to the exchange rate and can really do damage to a budget.

About the author: Jody Halsted has been traveling across Ireland for over a decade with her own children, discovering the most family friendly sites and activities on the tourist trail and off. Dedicated to Ireland family travel, her website Ireland Family Vacations, provides exceptional advice for a magical Ireland vacation. For families looking for a perfectly tailored Ireland vacation, Jody offers Ireland vacation coaching, working with your family to help you choose the perfect lodging, destinations, and activities to fit your budget, interests, and expectations.