Four day trips from Rome (with or without a car)

We’re in the midst of organizing our first family European trip, which is great fun. After all, your trip starts the minute you begin planning it! I’ve always loved Rome, so I know the Colosseum, Vatican, and lesser-known stops like the Mercato Testaccio will be on the itinerary. However, I also know my favorite way  of experiencing the Eternal City (which consisted of multiple days of city touring and lots of pizza and wine) will need adjusting. This time around, we’ll eat just as much pizza, but will also head outside the city to see more of the Roman and Tuscan countryside.  Below, read our top four Roman day trip picks, and how to get to them.

tivoli-italy

Sabine Hills (Sabina):

For a good dose of walled cities, medieval architecture, and quintessentially Italian rolling hillsides, head to Sabina. Olive trees dot the countryside, as do monasteries and Renaissance palaces. I’ve toured an olive oil production here, but I know my kids would rather poke around in the ancient walled villages of Toffia or Farfa, or hike along the worn trails of Monti Lucretili National Park.

Start in Fara Sabina, either by train or car. A direct train departs every 15 minutes from stations in Rome to Fara Sabina-Montelibretti Station. This will take about 45 minutes, and then families will need to transfer to bus to tour other villages. If you rent a car in Italy, you’ll have more freedom to explore. Take the Rome-Florence (A1) motorway to Fiano Romano exit, then follow signs to Rieti and Fara Sabina.

Appia Antica (Old Appian Way):

day-trip-from-rome

One of my favorite sights in Italy, and located just outside the city limits of Rome, Old Appian Way is an ancient, narrow road leading to the catacombs of the Eternal City. A visit outside the walls of Rome is really valuable for kids: they can visually learn exactly how the gates would open and shut, and see where the dead were once buried. Is it creepy? Sure! But not as much as I thought it would be. Definitely take a catacombs tour (most are lead on the hour in Italian and English, with other languages getting a few per day), then plan to stay for the afternoon picnicking in the pretty countryside along the road.

No need for a car for this day trip. Take bus 218 from San Giovanni Metro stop. Start with the biggest and most extensive catacombs, St. Callixtus. Families can see the crypt of nine popes here, and excellent examples of early Christian art. Buy tour tickets at the entrance. From here, it’s possible to walk along the road, but it’s very narrow (and walled), so when we go as a family, I plan to take the bus from stop to stop along Old Appian Way.

Tivoli:

To show kids what Renaissance villas really looked like, a day trip to Tivoli is a must. Only about 35 km from Rome, Tivoli is home to both Villa d’Este, located in the Piazza Trento, and Hadrian’s Villa. It’s easy to tour both via the bus system that connects them. Villas d’Este’s gardens utilize an innovative water irrigation system parents can point out to kids; there are 500 fountains alone. Families can take a tour through Viator, or visit on their own.

If you’re driving, it’s an easy commute from Rome via the S5 to Tivoli. There’s train service from Rome’s Tiburtina station as well.

Florence:

Yes, families can get to Florence and the greater Tuscany region as a day trip from Rome, though it will certainly take all day. Spend time perusing Italy’s finest collection of Renaissance art at Galleria degli Uffizi, but definitely buy tickets online in advance. Then give kids a break from museums and architecture by spending time at the Ponte Vecchio, Florence’s first bridge, and Campanile, the bell tower in Piazza del Duomo.

The fastest (but most expensive) way to get to Florence from Rome is on the fast train, then walking to the historic center, but we plan to drive a rental car, which is three hours up the A1.

This post was done in partnership with Enterprise Rent-a-Car but they had no input on the content. All opinions are my own.

Photo credit: Jean-Pierre DalbéraLarry.

Rome

How we planned our European trip on a budget

This winter, the Pit Stops for Kids crew will be heading to France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Italy. Our entire trip has been planned with budget in mind, by necessity! If your family, like ours, wants to plan a European trip on a budget, we have tips below!

european-trip

We will travel in an off-season.

Yes, Paris in springtime is lovely, and Scandinavia in the summer is just about perfect. But airfare and lodging prices soar during peak time periods. Everyone knows that when on a budget, one of the easiest ways to save money is to travel in the off-season, but with kids in school and sports, we know this is easier said than done. Think outside the box: I was surprised to learn that if booked far enough in advance, the Christmas holiday season was very affordable, with cheaper airfare than in spring. We were able to book a trip that didn’t force the kids to miss any school days but still fell into a budget season period.

If you do book a winter holiday trip, go with the flow of the Christmas and New Years’ holidays, taking advantage of special events and offerings. Instead of lamenting that you won’t be able to have the exact same trip you’d have in June or July, look for festivals, religious ceremonies, and celebrations that are unique to this festive season. For instance, I was bummed we wouldn’t be hiking in the Dutch countryside during our December trip, until I realized we’d be able to experience Belgium’s famous Christmas markets.

We finalized our travel dates around the best airfare.

Instead of deciding on our exact travel dates, then finding airfare to work around them, we kept our departure dates loose and finalized them around the most affordable airfare. This allowed us to use calendar tools on airline websites to find the cheapest fare within a 3-4 day window, each way. For example, for the Alitalia flight we booked from San Francisco to Paris, the price was $200 less if we flew on a Thursday rather than a Friday. On our return, flying on New Year’s Day is significantly less than flying the day after. Read how to find the lowest airfare for any trip.

We booked apartments instead of hotel rooms.

Hotel rooms are hard to come by economically for a family of five in major European cities. Instead of trying to cram into a room or booking two rooms per night for our family, we are using HomeAway and AirBnB vacation rentals. We enjoy booking directly from locals, because they can often give us extra tips and hints for our city travels, recommend restaurants, and give us directions to grocery stores. We’ve never had any problems booking through the above sites. Here’s an example of our savings:

  • Paris mid-range hotel room that sleeps 3: $200/night ($2,000 total for two rooms for five nights)
  • Paris apartment rental that sleeps 5: $100/night ($550 total for five nights including taxes and fees)

We priced lodging, transportation, and tours a la carte.

It can be easier to book lodging and tours in one package from a number of tour operators, but we dislike large group tours and don’t want to stay in hotels that cater to large groups. Instead, we booked individual tours in both Rome and Paris. (We’ll be touring with Fat Tire Tours and Overome.) While this seems like an extravagance, it’s actually less costly because we’ve gotten our lodging for a good price, and we’ll have the benefit of touring in a much smaller group.

We opted for longer stays per location.

Instead of giving into the temptation of changing location every few days, which would bump our transportation and lodging costs considerably, we have opted to stay overnight in only three locations over 15 days. This gives us time to fully explore each area, and keeps our lodging costs as low as possible (five nights in an apartment rental is far cheaper than five separate nights in five different accommodations). We can also forgo Eurail type ticket packages in favor of one-time fares because we won’t be taking trains very often.

We price compared trains vs planes.

Once our transatlantic flight plans were set, we needed to figure out how we’d travel from city to city within Europe. Don’t assume train travel will be cheaper than airfare. For our travel from Paris to nearby Belgium, the train was our best option, but leaving Brussels, it was far cheaper to grab a flight on an economy airline to Rome than to take the train to nearby London, for instance. We are using EasyJet and RyanAir for our internal flights. These airlines are bare bones, but for short flights, we’re willing to make this sacrifice.

We’re not renting a car.

Car rental in Europe can get expensive, as it can anywhere. We will be buying prepaid metro tickets for each major city we’re visiting, and will be relying on bus and train schedules everywhere we go. Would driving a car be more efficient? Sure, but we’re happy to see the sights in a more leisurely manner via public transit for the tradeoff of not having to navigate roads. Be sure to budget for public transit, and note that if you have anything larger than a family of four, taxi cabs will not likely be economical. Note: the only exception to our public transit rule will upon our arrival in Paris. After a long transatlantic journey, we know we’ll be tired. I opted for a private town car to pick us up at the airport and deliver us to our apartment. This ‘luxury’ costs less than getting two taxi cabs. (We’re using Blacklane.)

We’re eating street food and shopping in grocery stores.

For us, having our own kitchen in each of our apartment rentals just makes more sense than eating every meal out. While we will certainly eat some meals in restaurants, we plan to enjoy the multicultural experience of shopping in local grocery stores and making our own meals. When we booked our apartments, we looked for rentals with grocery stores within walking distance. For lunches, when we’ll be out in cities exploring, we plan to buy foods at delis and stores for picnics and try street foods in cities.

Why Ireland continues to be a favorite family travel destination

Traveling with your toddler is a great way to enjoy a break and make amazing memories for you and your young family. However, the problem is that not all holiday destinations are child and toddler-friendly. Therefore, so many people will tell you if you have a baby that ‘you can kiss your traveling days goodbye’ or ‘you’ll not have the same freedom as before’.

While most people mean well when they say those kinds of things, they are not completely accurate. Planning a holiday vacation with kids in another country takes more planning.  You need to consider where you go carefully, but it’s still possible. Ireland is one of the best places to travel with a toddler and in this post, we’re going to tell you why.

Powerscourt

Irish People are Known for their Hospitality and Friendliness

Most places you go to Ireland, you will find that people are incredibly friendly and accommodating to children. At restaurants, there are special menus for kids, and many eateries supply child-friendly utensils. You may also find coffee shops give out things like miniature marshmallows to kids and shop assistants are patient.

Rural is Not Boring

Although you may be nervous about taking your toddler to more rural spots around Ireland. However, kids love seeing wildlife and farm animals in their element, and there are a lot of places to do that kind of activity in Ireland. So, while you and whoever you are traveling with can enjoy the scenery, your child can still have an enjoyable time too.

Trains in Ireland Are Great

If you don’t fancy driving or walking around all the time, you should take a train. Irish Rail offers a convenient transportation service. They also provide discounted seating for children, so they can have their place to sit by the window and look at the stunning countryside.

Small Cities Are Walkable

One of the great things about Ireland though is that many cities are walkable. So, you don’t have to use public transport and can walk with your child in their buggy. Even cities like Dublin, if you walk around the city centre, you can get everywhere quickly.

ireland-road-trip

Easy to Drive Around

Ireland is very easy to get around if you have a car though, so don’t think you don’t have to walk or take public transportation all the time. However, if you are going to take the rental car or via train, you need to make sure you protect your family while on holiday with travel insurance. AA insurance has the right travel insurance for Ireland vacations at cheap prices. Some great features of AA travel insurance include coverage for multiple trips and medical coverage up to 10,000,000-Euros.

There are Lots of Places to Enjoy Live Music

Children love music, and in Ireland, where folk music is king, there are various places where you can find a traditional Irish folk band playing, whether it’s on a street corner or in a bar or café. Most pubs are strictly no-kids after dark, but many places have musical performances throughout the day.

Numerous Baby and Toddler-Focused Activities

Whereas with places like France and Italy, the most popular tourist attractions are sites of historical importance, museums and art galleries, where you need to wait in long lines and the atmospheres and layouts are less than flexible or suitable for younger children, Ireland is different. There are plenty of must-see sites, but a lot of what makes Ireland great is the lifestyle the people have.

Florence Italy at Christmas

Last holiday season, we made a last minute decision to add Florence, Italy to our European family vacation. We arrived in Florence on December 24, Christmas Eve, and left December 27. While planning, I worried that perhaps, spending Christmas in Florence wouldn’t feel festive…after all, their seasonal Christmas markets close before Christmas Day. However, I couldn’t have been more wrong. Florence Italy at Christmas is beautiful! Scroll down for a few tips and plenty of images.

christmas-florence

Florence Italy at Christmas:

We came to Florence from Paris, where the Christmas markets were still in full swing. However, Florence definitely beats out the City of Lights in holidays light displays. Every narrow street of historic Florence featured strings of lights. Each street was different.

florence-italy

  • Florence also has many more Christmas trees than Paris. We found this to be true throughout Italy as opposed to France. Italy, and Florence in particular, also has wonderful nativity scenes.
  • While in Florence for Christmas, look for impromptu Christmas carnivals in various piazzas, including cheap carnival games, street performers, carrousels, and outdoor ice skating rinks.

holidays-in-florence

  • On Christmas Day, expect for museums to be closed. Take walking tours instead, or go to a church service.
  • Try to make reservations for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals ahead of time. Some restaurants will close. For those that remain open, expect them to be busy for Christmas lunch and closed for the evening. Some restaurants will have set menus. Stock up on a few basics at the grocery store so you can make a simple Christmas evening meal in your apartment rental, if that’s an option for you.

florence-nativity-scene

  • Look for elaborate Nativity scenes in Florence, both outside the Duomo and in area churches. It’s ok to step inside churches to see their nativity scenes, provided you don’t go during service hours.
  • Step inside artisan meat and cheese shops and you’ll most likely find generous tasting offerings. We tasted so much cheese, it was a snack!

eating-in-florence

  • Buy a panettone at a grocery store. This traditional Italian holiday bread is similar to a coffee cake, and we picked one up for under €5. We liked it so much, we bought another in Rome!
  • If you want to ice skate at the outdoor rinks, the ice is free, but skate rentals are around €5 per person. For this price, you usually get about 30 minutes. This was enough time for us. The rink we found was open Christmas Day.

ice-skating-florence

Have you been to Florence at Christmas? What was your favorite sight to see?

 

Guide to Paris Christmas markets

One of our favorite memories of a Paris Christmas was touring the many Paris Christmas markets across the city. Some Christmas markets pop up fairly spontaneously from year to year, but there are a few staples you’ll find to be consistent. Here’s where to go to find Paris Christmas markets, plus tips for best enjoyment of these seasonal wonders.

paris-christmas-markets

Top Paris Christmas markets:

The biggies each year are as follows (plus how to get there):

  1. The Concorde area: this largest Christmas market is located at the Concorde, right in the shadow of the seasonal ferris wheel (built for the World’s Fair). It’s at the end of the famous Champs- Élysées, so if you’re already walking down this to see the holiday lights and decor, you’ll end up here.
  2. Under the Eiffel Tower: this was our favorite Christmas market, as it wasn’t too big and wasn’t too small. And the ambiance is amazing under the tower, especially when it sparkles on the hour at night. We visited this market before and after going to the top of the tower.
  3. In the Montmartre area: this market is a bit more ‘working class’, with some touristy stuff tossed in, located under the shadow of Sacre Coeur. Take the metro to the Chateau Rogue stop, or tack this visit on to a tour of Sacre Coeur. You can take the tram up the hill, too.

Paris-christmas-market

Tips for making the most of the Paris Christmas markets:

  • Plan on making a meal of it: We purposely planned our mealtimes around Christmas markets. This is a cheap and delicious way to eat in Paris during the holiday season. At every Christmas market, we could find the staples: crepes, Belgian waffles, baguettes toasted with melted cheese, mulled wine, hot chocolate, and all sorts of candies and nuts.
  • Look for smaller markets: We found a fun yet small Christmas market across the Seine from Notre Dame, by the Latin Quarter. It was only a dozen or so huts, but Santa Claus was there without a line, and the vendors were among the most friendly.

notre-dame

  • Bring cash: at most huts, you’ll need to pay in cash. Give kids coins to spend on their own.
  • Shop for Christmasy souvenirs: During our Christmas visit, we decided to play a game of ‘secret Santa’ within our family. Each family member bought little trinkets and treats at Christmas markets for another member of the family. We had a lot of fun.

paris-christmas-market

  • Look for ice skating rinks: Many Christmas markets include small ice skating rinks. Below the Eiffel Tower, the rink was actually a loop, similar to a track, which skaters used as though on a trail. If you combine an Eiffel Tower Christmas market trip with a ride up the tower, stop and skate at the 1st floor landing ON the tower. It’s free!
  • Try the vin chaud: This mulled wine may not be made with the highest quality wine, but it’s piping hot and seasoned nicely. For kids, the chocolat chaud is the way to go.
  • Look for public restrooms: Restrooms are in short supply in Paris, but we always found one at major Christmas markets.
  • Almost all Paris Christmas markets open the third week of November and close January 1. Hours are generally noon to 10 pm.

What is your favorite Paris Christmas market?

How to visit the Paris catacombs with kids

One attraction near the top of my teen’s list of things to do in Paris was the Paris Catacombs. This underground network lies in the heart of the city, spanning two km. It’s creepy and fascinating and toured completely on one’s own, unless you opt for a guide. We recommend it, as the actual visit only takes about 45 minutes and can easily be added to a Paris itinerary with teens or older kids, but there are many things to know ahead of time to make your day run smoothly. Here’s how to visit the Paris catacombs with kids:

paris-catacombs

You can start on the catacombs’ official website, which will tell you the essential details, but it won’t tell you the number one bit of information you need: to tour, you’ll be given a timed ticket, which involves two different lines and waiting times unless you either 1. buy online, or 2. get there right at opening.

We did not buy ahead of time OR get there early, and this was the process:

  1. Start in a queue to get your timed ticket. You don’t pay at this time. It will be confusing to figure out where this line is or where it starts, as the entrance to the catacombs looks like a boarding line for an airplane…lots of people merging and clustering without a clear queue. Ask any of the officials for the timed ticket line until you find it.
  2. When you get to the front of this line (on our visit, this took about 30 minutes), you’ll be given a slip of paper saying what time to come back. We were there on a pretty busy day and our timed ticket was for 3 hours later. Note: if you arrive in the later part of the afternoon, you’ll probably be told to come back the next day.
  3. When you come back at your timed ticket hour, you will need to show the slip to the official at the front of the entrance and he or she will direct you vaguely in the direction of a vague line. They let in about 50 people at a time (for a total of 200 or so in the catacomb network at once), so you’ll basically be grouping with all the other people who have the same time as you. The wait isn’t long; maybe another 15-20 minutes.

paris-catacombs

Note: don’t try to come AFTER your time indicated. We were 30 minutes late, and it took some persistence to be allowed in.

Once inside, you’ll pay at the counter and descend the staircase to the underground level. Once there, you’re on your own to walk the (quite long) distance through an underground tunnel to where to opens out into a wider space. Here, you’ll see some signage talking about the history of the catacombs, then the catacombs themselves.

touring-catacombs

What to expect in the catacombs:

Once you’re in the catacombs themselves, there’s no signage or explanations of anything, apart from a few very generalized dates. Stacked bones line the walkways, primarily made up of femurs, tibias, and skulls. Some are in interesting patterns and geometric shapes, but most are just lining the walkway like a wall. Certainly, it’s an interesting sight, especially for kids and teens but they are human remains, which gives them a decidedly creepy tone. Parents will need to use judgement as to whether their kids are ready for this.

I wished there was more explanation of the remains, but the point made is that these are unknown people, moved here as needed to make room elsewhere. Most of the remains are from the era of plagues when mass graves were necessary. At least, that’s as much as we could put together with little information. If this is a site and subject that interests you greatly, I advise booking a private tour. I know Viator.com has one.

When you arrive at the catacombs, whether you have timed tickets from booking online or need to stand in the queue for timed tickets, expect a certain level of chaos. The official website does not explain the ticketing process well (or at all, really), so many visitors are confused and frustrated. Of course, this would be simple to fix, but when we heard a visitor suggest information be placed on the website, the ticket operator simply chuckled. I guess it will never happen.

paris-catacombs

A few more logistics:

  • The stairs both going down and coming up from the catacombs are steep and long. There is no alternative, such as an elevator. Needless to say, this site is not handicap-friendly.
  • The temperature is 14 degrees C, so wear a light sweater or coat.
  • There is no bathroom or anywhere to store a backpack.

Visitor numbers are restricted to 200 at any time. Admission may be delayed for a short time during busy periods.

Cost and hours:

Open daily from 10am to 8pm, except Mondays and some public holidays. Last admission: 7pm. To buy tickets online, try this website. Adults are €12, kids under 18 are free.

Directions:

The catacombs are located at 1, avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy – 75014 Paris. You’ll want to take Metro line 4 to the Cité stop.

Louvre vs d’Orsay museum: why you should visit both with kids

If you’re visiting Paris with kids ten and up, both the Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay are probably on your short list. When I created our Paris itinerary with kids, I initially left the d’Orsay off of it. This was a big mistake! On recommendation by our Fat Tire Tours guide, we ended up spending a morning at this museum and it was our most enjoyable museum visit in Paris. In the battle of the Louvre vs d’Orsay museum, here’s why you need to make time for both.

louvre-vs-d'orsay

What you’ll only find at the Louvre:

Most people are aware that the Louvre is home of Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Of course, this is a big draw, and like many, many other people, we really wanted to see this work of art while we were in Paris. Is it the only show in town? Of course not, but  I believe that when kids  (and adults) see a work of art they instantly recognize, it increases their enthusiasm for art museums as a whole. There’s a wow factor in seeing the Mona Lisa, and it shouldn’t be underestimated or ignored. In other words, don’t worry about being a cliche; go see it!

Also at the Louvre is the Venus de Milo, as well as a wonderful collection of medieval and Renaissance paintings that serve as a good crash course in the major players of the 14th-18th century. I am not an art historian, so I won’t pretend to know exactly what I’m talking about in regard to particular works, but it’s worth the €5 per person to grab an audio guide when you enter. You can pick and choose which works to learn more about.

Note: the audio guides do not offer commentary on every piece of art. Rather, there are selected works that have an audio symbol adjacent. We found that depending on the room, there might only be 2-3 audio commentary art pieces.

There are three main wings of the Louvre, divided into eight main categories of art. We grabbed a map and headed straight to the biggies we wanted to see, then toured through the Egyptian antiquities and sculptures. The collection of medieval armor and weaponry is of great appeal to kids as well.

louvre-with-kids

What you’ll only find at the d’Orsay:

Compared to the Louvre, the d’Orsay is downright small. It’s very nice to have a manageable space to navigate! This museum is housed in the beautiful train station made during the world fair days, and is light, airy and bright. It’s main focus is Impressionist paintings, and has works primarily from the 18th-20th centuries. You can find Rodin here, Van Gogh, Monet, and Renoir, among many others.

Personally, we prefer this style of art, from the Impressionist era, so we were much more excited for the d’Orsay. With the museum map, it’s easy to find everything, and we found that the kids discovered more pieces that they recognized from text books and popular culture here.

view-from-d'orsay

Note: from upstairs on the 5th floor of the d’Orsay, there are wonderful views of Sacre Coeur and a glimpse out the window of the famous train station clock face (on either end).

How to see them both (without burning out):

  • While the d’Orsay is more manageable than the Louvre, don’t even try to see everything in either one. We didn’t even make it to one entire wing of the Louvre. Instead, do some research ahead of time to know what are the must-sees for your group, and get those accomplished first. Then wander at will for a set amount of time, and that’s it. In each museum, we spent about three hours. We saw our highlights in the first hour, our secondary picks in the second, then wandered for the last part.
  • Get the Paris Museum Pass! This pass, which works similarly to CityPass in the US, grants you entry into dozens of attractions and museums in Paris. However, since kids 18 and under and free in most cases, the real value of this pass is in the line-skipping feature. We literally saved hours at each museum by going into the ‘Paris Pass and Reserved Tickets’ line. The museum pass also comes with multi-day metro tickets, which you absolutely need to purchase in Paris anyway.
  • Make time to eat. At the Louvre, the cafe on the second level is not bad at all. Better yet, in summer, go outside to the  Tuileries to eat at one of the little walk-up cafes there. This is even an option in winter, though some of the food stands close.
  • Use the visitor trails. We opted not to do this, but the Louvre has set itineraries you can follow. If you have a theme of interest, this is a great way to make sure not to miss anything. The trails are pre-loaded in the audio guide, or can be followed separately.
  • Be sure to grab a map. We found the maps at both museums to be essential.

Which museum do you prefer in Paris? Why?

Getting from Pisa to Florence with a side trip to the Leaning Tower of Pisa

If you’re flying into Pisa’s airport and then getting from Pisa to Florence Italy, you have several options, all of which are pretty cheap and pretty fast. However, if you want to take advantage of your time in the town to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa, there’s really only one way to do it. Here’s how (and why it’s worth the time):

leaning-tower

From Pisa International Airport (PSA), also called Galileo Galilei Airport, you’ll need to go to the bus ticket window/newsstand directly past the baggage claim, in the arrivals area. This booth can sell you bus fare for the Rossa (red) line, that goes from the airport to Pisa Centrale railway station, the city’s biggest train depot. It’s a five minute ride, and costs just a few euros, but from the rail station, the Rossa line continues through town, to the Leaning Tower.

Note: bus rides are FREE all morning in Pisa, with fare only needed after noon. During our visit, we started our bus ride in the morning, but returned in the afternoon, so we bought one-way fare. If your trip will be all in the afternoon, buy return bus fare from this booth as well.

Step outside with your tickets, and you’ll see the bus stop directly across the small parking lot (this is a small airport). Look for a red circle on the front of the bus. They are being literal when they say it’s the Rossa line.

Once on the bus, note the stop at Pisa Centrale, because you’ll want to get off here on your return from the tower, in order to get to Florence. But for now, stay on the bus. Unfortunately, we were given incorrect information on another website, and thought we needed to get off the Rossa line here and access the tower via the trains. Not so.

Stay on the bus another few stops, until you get to the Torre stop. There’s usually an outdoor market directly in front of the tower complex, called Piazza del Duomo, partially obscuring your view. We didn’t even see the tower the first time we got to this stop, and thought it was the wrong one! (We had all sorts of navigational issues this day!)

leaning-tower

At Torre, get off the bus and walk through the marketplace to the gate to the tower and cathedral. You’ll clearly see it at this point. It’s free to walk around the base of the Leaning Tower and into the cathedral. A funny note: the tower began leaning during construction, but they kept on anyway!

You can buy tickets online to go inside the tower…you can even climb to the top and see the view from outside. We didn’t have time for this, as we were due in Florence at a certain hour, but if you budget a few hours at the piazza, I recommend going up the tower and into the cathedral. There’s a baptistry as well. Of course, you’ll also see plenty of vendors with booths of touristy souvenirs.

Once you’re ready to depart, take the same Rossa bus line back to Centrale. This bus line goes in a loop, so you can’t go wrong. Once at Centrale, go to the ticket sales window and ask for the first train to Florence. They typically run every hour or so, so we didn’t find any reason to book ahead of time. At the time of our visit, tickets were approximately €18 for adults and half that for kids. You’ll need to be at the correct platform for your train 10 minutes before departure.

Note: Be sure to validate your train ticket once you’re on the platform. You’ll see green validation machines. There’s a steep fine if you’re caught with an unvalidated ticket, though we never saw anyone checked during our trip.

The ride on TrenItalia to Florence took under an hour, and we were able to charge devices and access WiFi onboard. We took TrenItalia many times in Italy, and found it comfortable and convenient every time. We ate lunch on the train, finding several food options at a food court at the Centrale station.

trenitalia

The kids couldn’t help showing off their favorite train snacks!

Once in Florence, get off at the main station, Santa Maria Novella. Almost every point in the city center is walkable from this station, which is lovely! Enjoy Florence!

Worth noting: if you do NOT want to stop in Pisa to see the Leaning Tower, you can take either TrenItalia to Florence exactly as we did from Centrale, or you can buy cheaper bus tickets for buses that depart directly from the airport. We were even given the option of buying these tickets onboard our plane. They are approximately five euros each (one euro more if bought once you land), and by far the cheapest route to Florence. However, the bus takes longer and you miss out on Pisa.

Touring Paris with Fat Tire Tours

While planning our itinerary for Paris with kids, I kept hearing about an English-language, Paris-based tour company that goes around on bikes. My family loves exploring cities by bike (you may remember how we gushed about Bike ‘n Roll in the States), so we contacted Fat Tire Tours and set up a morning with them.

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We chose to try their Paris Day Bike Tour, which has been a staple at the company since 1999. The tour is 3.5 hours, and covers a lot of ground. After several days of hoofing it around Paris, it was a welcome relief to be on two wheels. The Paris Day Bike Tour is designed to give visitors an overview of the area around the Eiffel Tower, Concorde, and Invalides. We took the tour on Day 3, and but while we’d seen the Eiffel Tower from afar and walked around the Louvre area, most of the stops were brand new to us.

The tour started at 9 am. After booking online, we were sent an email confirmation with instructions on where to meet the group. It was easy to find the Metro station indicated, but we almost ended up being late when we stood in the wrong place and somehow didn’t notice the group gathering. Doh! Once we were on the right track, one guide led the large group of about 25 people to Fat Tire’s office, where we could stash backpacks if needed, buy water, use the restroom, and get fitted for bikes. I worried at this point that our group would be too large to be manageable, but I shouldn’t have feared. Once we were all on bikes, the group was broken down to about 8 people per guide.

We set out within about 25 minutes, and rode primarily on streets, following our guide, with breaks from traffic on some bike paths and while on car-free paths along the Seine. While we did need to pay close attention to our guide while navigating the streets, it was easy to follow instructions and I never felt unsafe. Our kids were old enough to ride solo and follow instructions, but young kids are also welcome, as Fat Tire Tours has bikes with child seats available. I’d venture to say kids under age 5 would have a hard time in the traffic, and should be in bike seats.

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Our guide Nick was British, living in Paris, and he was a wealth of information with a fun and lively personality. The kids were always interested in his commentary as he described Paris history through the various stops at historical buildings, churches, and bridges. I appreciated that Nick didn’t ‘dumb down’ the information for children. Even when the commentary was geared more to adults, there was always the novelty of riding the bikes through the city to keep kids entertained.

I learned a great deal about some buildings I otherwise would have passed by in Paris, and Nick was able to provide advice on where else to go in the city with the kids. In fact, we would have skipped seeing the d’Orsay Museum if not for his tip to go the following morning. It turned out to be our favorite museum.

We made about 10 stops through the city, with a longer break off the bikes at a cafe in the Tuileries by the Louvre. Even though we went in winter, this garden area was beautiful, and the little cafe was perfect for an easy lunch with kids. The boys got savory crepes and soup, and the adults had sandwiches on baguette. The wine and hot chocolate were both nice, too. At the end of our tour, we got a great photo op at the tower, too.

Note: Lunch is not included in the price, but is not expensive. I believe we spent about €7 per person. We brought our own water bottles in a small backpack.

Overall, we found everyone at Fat Tire Tours to be friendly, welcoming, and energetic, from Nick to the office staff to the attendants putting us on bikes. It was a very friendly place to spend a morning in Paris, which can be an intimidating city. After our tour, the office staff gave us further advice on how to spend our afternoon. We had tickets to go up the Eiffel Tower, so we walked over from the office and spent a few hours enjoying the winter sunshine and checking out the Christmas market.

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Cost:

This half-day tour is $32 each, which I think is a steal. It was absolutely worth this and more.

Directions:

The office is located by the Eiffel Tower, and full instructions for meeting your group will be given upon booking.

As I disclose whenever applicable, our tour was comped by Fat Tire Tours, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

 

Exploring Christmas markets in Belgium

For our upcoming European vacation on a budget, we researched Christmas markets in France, Italy, and Belgium. While the country is still on high alert as officials ensure safety following the Paris terrorist acts, sources from both Flanders and Visit Brussels say that as of this posting, Christmas markets in the area will proceed as planned. Here’s what we learned about exploring Christmas markets in Belgium.

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Brussels

Known as Winter Wonders, Brussels’ Christmas market is centered around the Grand-Place, where holiday lights take center stage. Check out this video of the holiday light show. It’s easily the most populated market, thanks to easy access from other European cities. The market stalls run over 2 km, and are augmented by merry-go-rounds on Place Sainte-Catherine, and a large wheel and ice rink at Marché aux Poissons. Note: it would seem any Christmas market worth its salt has at least a rink and a wheel in addition to shopping stalls. The Brussels market opens November 27th and runs through January 3rd.

Tip: Please note that Brussels is still at a high security alert. Be aware of your surroundings if and when enjoying the sights at any large gathering.

Ghent

Ghent tends to be less popular with tourists than nearby Bruges and more medieval than Brussels. The Christmas market here is where you’ll likely want to spend the majority of your time exploring. The ice skating rink sits in the city pavilion, and the ferris wheel is located in front of St. Bavo’s. The entire downtown area is very walkable, which makes it a great market to visit if you’re relying on public transit or want to park your car in a public lot outside town (advised).

Bruges

Looking for a postcard perfect Christmas? Medieval Bruges sets a beautiful backdrop. This Unesco World Heritage site shines during the holidays, with an ice skating rink, holiday stalls and a ferris wheel. Be sure to see the Snow & Ice Sculpture Festival, held in a massive thermal tent. The Bruges market opens November 20th and runs through January 3rd.

Antwerp

Antwerp’s market runs for a short time period, from December 15th through December 27th. Located in the city at the Groenplaats, lights and music set the backdrop to plenty of hot chocolate sipping, pastry eating and Glühwein drinking (a mulled wine that’s a specialty at Antwerp). The nativity scene is set against the backdrop of a historic building, and of course there’s an ice skating rink.

bruges

General tips for visiting Belgium Christmas markets:

  • Market hours: All markets generally run from noon or 1 pm to 9 or 10 pm, nightly. All have FREE entry, though parking fees may exist.
  • How to get there: EuroStar connects Brussels with both Paris and London, making it possible to make a day or overnight trip without a car. If you’re looking to explore further afield, like we are, you’ll need to take the train (Brussels to Ghent is only 30 minutes) or rent a car. As of this writing, EuroStar trains are running on schedule.
  • Foods to try: Start with chocolate, chocolate, and more chocolate. Then indulge in the world of Belgian waffles. You’ll need to choose between the Brussels waffle and the Liege waffle. Actually, forget choosing. Try both. Stalls of roasted chestnuts, frites (french fries), and donuts are also abundant. You’ll even find German offerings like wursts and other grilled meats and sausages. And Mom and Dad: try mulled wine and specialty ales crafted for the holidays. Bottom line: come hungry.
  • What to buy: Belgium Christmas markets are known for ceramics like beer steins and pitchers, plus knit clothing (look for fun hats and scarves). Of course, you’ll also find holiday decorations galore, plus handcrafted trinkets and jewelry.
  • Tips: Bundle up, as you’ll be spending a number of hours outdoors in the cold. Don’t forget light gloves and a hat. Most ice skating rinks are free of charge if you have your own skates, or skates can be rented in larger market areas.

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christmas market

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Have you been to a Belgium Christmas market? Which one?

Disclosure: This post was written in partnership with Alamo. All opinions my own.