European vacation - Pitstops for Kids

River cruise vacation: What to expect on a Vantage Travel river cruise

July 15, 2021 By Amy Hagstrom

You only unpack once. You never have to plan, drive, or navigate in a foreign country. You wake up in a new city each day. All your meals are inclusive.

If this sounds like a dream, you haven’t tried a European river cruise! Whether you embark on a river cruise as a couples’ getaway (highly recommended!) or with older kids or teens, we have a full review of what you can expect on a VantageTravel.com river cruise vacation.

Vantage Travel river cruise vacation: what to expect onboard and off!

I recently experienced Vantage Travel’s Heart of Germany trip, which was eight days of luxury travel on the River Splendor. This ship sleeps 176 passengers, and felt cozy but not crowded during my sailing with approximately 110 passengers on board. We flew into Frankfurt, Germany and flew out of Munich, Germany, exploring seven ports through Bavaria along the journey.

The River Splendor navigated three rivers during our trip: the Rhine, Main, and Danube, and each day, we either docked directly in each town, able to walk off the ship and into a storybook village, or within a 1-1.5 hour bus ride from our day’s destination. Obviously, I preferred the former, but during approximately half the trip, the latter proved necessary.

We embarked in Mainz, Germany, and quickly settled into a comfortable routine: each evening before dinner, our capable cruise director, Renata Lovrovic, would brief us on the following day’s planned itinerary, which we could opt into or out of. (Should you wish to explore the port of call on your own, ship departure times were clearly announced.) Cocktail hour would follow in the lounge, with the evening capped by a four-course dinner. While the menu is upscale American with only a few local specialties, basic dishes and a healthy option are always available, such as grilled chicken or salmon. Breakfast is also a buffet, and an early riser’s breakfast allows even greater flexibility. By the time we retired to our stateroom each evening, a full written itinerary for the following day awaited us on our pillows.

Deluxe stateroom, photo courtesy of Erika Balbier

Throughout the cruise, we also had full access to a concierge, a massage therapist, and a 24-hour reception desk. Our bottom deck stateroom was decidedly cozy, but we had all the space we needed with impressive storage solutions for our luggage and clothes. (Staterooms sleep two, so families would need to upgrade to a suite or book two or more rooms.) The bathroom was downright roomy, and while I had worried that our two small windows wouldn’t let in enough light, we found the space to never feel gloomy. Nor did we ever feel seasick on the gentle Rhine, Main, and Danube rivers.

Our journey took us from Mainz to Regensburg. Each convergence of the rivers brought new ports and vistas, new foods to try, and new local city experts to guide us. Cultural activities on-board, such as German language lessons, cooking classes, and lectures were on offer almost daily, though we often ran out of time to enjoy them all.

Dining each evening is open seating, so we met new friends on-board who brightened our evening social life, often lingering over wine or aperitifs after our plates were cleared. Housekeeping is twice daily plus a turndown service, and each server in the dining room and lounge was courteous and well-trained.

What Vantage offers families who want to combine luxury with relaxation:

While the typical clientele of a Vantage river cruise skews older, families and grandparents with older kids and teens will find plenty to keep busy and engaged. Excursions off the ship occur every single day, and as stated above, parents and grandparents can opt-out with their kids at will, but trust me, you’ll want to stick around to learn with the group on most occasions.

Teens tend to congregate in the Captain’s Club, the window-filled space at the stern where meals are served buffet style (and alfresco in nice weather). Vantage crew members put out games and electronics in this space when kids are on-board, and the complimentary espresso machine serves up hot chocolate and coffee drinks at any time of day.

Free WiFi is offered the ship throughout the cruise, and while I brought a hot spot to ensure connectivity for work, I never needed it onboard the River Splendor. Connection was swift and reliable, so teens can stay connected via text, email and WhatsApp with family at home, friends, and new friends they meet on the cruise.

The library adjacent to the lounge houses cards, board games and books, making for a nice retreat, and the sundeck at the top level is perfect for active teens who want to make use of the small track in nice weather (though there’s also a small exercise room onboard). Complimentary bike use is available in most ports (and the bikes sail along with you on the deck of the River Splendor).

While river cruising is known to be relaxing (think lazy afternoons spotting castles while enjoying high tea and navigating locks while enjoying a glass of wine), VantageTravel.com focuses on the cultural connection just as ardently. Every single day brought a different walking tour, cathedral or castle visit, and opportunity for local dining and shopping.

What’s included in the river cruise vacation cost:

Nearly everything! Here’s what’s included:

Almost all excursions, all city guides and regional experts.
All bus transfers, including to and from the airport.
Almost every meal (only a couple meals in towns are not included)
House wine and beer (free-flowing) at every dinner.
Cocktail demonstration nightly.
WiFi onboard.
Bike and e-bike lending program.
24-hour access to coffee, espresso, and tea.
Museum entry and tour entry for all planned excursions.

What you’ll pay a la carte for:

Top-shelf wine and liquor at dinner, plus apres-dinner drinks.
Cocktails, wine and beer during cocktail hour in the lounge.
Add-on excursions (we never felt it necessary).

Tip: Bottled water is available for purchase at the bar in the lounge, but pitchers of drinking water is also available in the Captain’s Club and in the exercise room daily.

We loved that Vantage can book your airfare for you, and we highly advise going with this perk. It comes included with a pick-up right in the terminal, which is very welcome after a long journey, and Vantage did a great job finding us the best flight itineraries possible.

Before and during your trip, you also have access to a personal portal that allows you to view your itinerary, upgrade your cabin or tours, and check on details of your flights. We found Vantage to be highly organized and very responsive in the customer service department.

Our only wishes to add to the list for our river cruise vacation: we’d love to have had easier access to complimentary water onboard, would have liked more local cuisine at dinner, and would have welcomed smaller walking tour group sizes. Otherwise, we were happy cruise passengers for a blissful eight days!

Check out the stops we made during our Heart of Germany tour, in order to plan your own Bavarian vacation.

Disclosure: We experienced a Vantage Travel river cruise vacation as guests of Vantage, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

How we planned our European trip on a budget

January 6, 2020 By Amy Hagstrom

This winter, the Pit Stops for Kids crew will be heading to France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Italy. Our entire trip has been planned with budget in mind, by necessity! If your family, like ours, wants to plan a European trip on a budget, we have tips below!

We will travel in an off-season.

Yes, Paris in springtime is lovely, and Scandinavia in the summer is just about perfect. But airfare and lodging prices soar during peak time periods. Everyone knows that when on a budget, one of the easiest ways to save money is to travel in the off-season, but with kids in school and sports, we know this is easier said than done. Think outside the box: I was surprised to learn that if booked far enough in advance, the Christmas holiday season was very affordable, with cheaper airfare than in spring. We were able to book a trip that didn’t force the kids to miss any school days but still fell into a budget season period.

If you do book a winter holiday trip, go with the flow of the Christmas and New Years’ holidays, taking advantage of special events and offerings. Instead of lamenting that you won’t be able to have the exact same trip you’d have in June or July, look for festivals, religious ceremonies, and celebrations that are unique to this festive season. For instance, I was bummed we wouldn’t be hiking in the Dutch countryside during our December trip, until I realized we’d be able to experience Belgium’s famous Christmas markets.

We finalized our travel dates around the best airfare.

Instead of deciding on our exact travel dates, then finding airfare to work around them, we kept our departure dates loose and finalized them around the most affordable airfare. This allowed us to use calendar tools on airline websites to find the cheapest fare within a 3-4 day window, each way. For example, for the Alitalia flight we booked from San Francisco to Paris, the price was $200 less if we flew on a Thursday rather than a Friday. On our return, flying on New Year’s Day is significantly less than flying the day after. Read how to find the lowest airfare for any trip.

We booked apartments instead of hotel rooms.

Hotel rooms are hard to come by economically for a family of five in major European cities. Instead of trying to cram into a room or booking two rooms per night for our family, we are using HomeAway and AirBnB vacation rentals. We enjoy booking directly from locals, because they can often give us extra tips and hints for our city travels, recommend restaurants, and give us directions to grocery stores. We’ve never had any problems booking through the above sites. Here’s an example of our savings:

Paris mid-range hotel room that sleeps 3: $200/night ($2,000 total for two rooms for five nights)
Paris apartment rental that sleeps 5: $100/night ($550 total for five nights including taxes and fees)

We priced lodging, transportation, and tours a la carte.

It can be easier to book lodging and tours in one package from a number of tour operators, but we dislike large group tours and don’t want to stay in hotels that cater to large groups. Instead, we booked individual tours in both Rome and Paris. (We’ll be touring with Fat Tire Tours and Overome.) While this seems like an extravagance, it’s actually less costly because we’ve gotten our lodging for a good price, and we’ll have the benefit of touring in a much smaller group.

We opted for longer stays per location.

Instead of giving into the temptation of changing location every few days, which would bump our transportation and lodging costs considerably, we have opted to stay overnight in only three locations over 15 days. This gives us time to fully explore each area, and keeps our lodging costs as low as possible (five nights in an apartment rental is far cheaper than five separate nights in five different accommodations). We can also forgo Eurail type ticket packages in favor of one-time fares because we won’t be taking trains very often.

We price compared trains vs planes.

Once our transatlantic flight plans were set, we needed to figure out how we’d travel from city to city within Europe. Don’t assume train travel will be cheaper than airfare. For our travel from Paris to nearby Belgium, the train was our best option, but leaving Brussels, it was far cheaper to grab a flight on an economy airline to Rome than to take the train to nearby London, for instance. We are using EasyJet and RyanAir for our internal flights. These airlines are bare bones, but for short flights, we’re willing to make this sacrifice.

We’re not renting a car.

Car rental in Europe can get expensive, as it can anywhere. We will be buying prepaid metro tickets for each major city we’re visiting, and will be relying on bus and train schedules everywhere we go. Would driving a car be more efficient? Sure, but we’re happy to see the sights in a more leisurely manner via public transit for the tradeoff of not having to navigate roads. Be sure to budget for public transit, and note that if you have anything larger than a family of four, taxi cabs will not likely be economical. Note: the only exception to our public transit rule will upon our arrival in Paris. After a long transatlantic journey, we know we’ll be tired. I opted for a private town car to pick us up at the airport and deliver us to our apartment. This ‘luxury’ costs less than getting two taxi cabs. (We’re using Blacklane.)

We’re eating street food and shopping in grocery stores.

For us, having our own kitchen in each of our apartment rentals just makes more sense than eating every meal out. While we will certainly eat some meals in restaurants, we plan to enjoy the multicultural experience of shopping in local grocery stores and making our own meals. When we booked our apartments, we looked for rentals with grocery stores within walking distance. For lunches, when we’ll be out in cities exploring, we plan to buy foods at delis and stores for picnics and try street foods in cities.

Florence Italy at Christmas

December 7, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Last holiday season, we made a last minute decision to add Florence, Italy to our European family vacation. We arrived in Florence on December 24, Christmas Eve, and left December 27. While planning, I worried that perhaps, spending Christmas in Florence wouldn’t feel festive…after all, their seasonal Christmas markets close before Christmas Day. However, I couldn’t have been more wrong. Florence Italy at Christmas is beautiful! Scroll down for a few tips and plenty of images.

Florence Italy at Christmas:

We came to Florence from Paris, where the Christmas markets were still in full swing. However, Florence definitely beats out the City of Lights in holidays light displays. Every narrow street of historic Florence featured strings of lights. Each street was different.

Florence also has many more Christmas trees than Paris. We found this to be true throughout Italy as opposed to France. Italy, and Florence in particular, also has wonderful nativity scenes.
While in Florence for Christmas, look for impromptu Christmas carnivals in various piazzas, including cheap carnival games, street performers, carrousels, and outdoor ice skating rinks.

On Christmas Day, expect for museums to be closed. Take walking tours instead, or go to a church service.
Try to make reservations for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day meals ahead of time. Some restaurants will close. For those that remain open, expect them to be busy for Christmas lunch and closed for the evening. Some restaurants will have set menus. Stock up on a few basics at the grocery store so you can make a simple Christmas evening meal in your apartment rental, if that’s an option for you.

Look for elaborate Nativity scenes in Florence, both outside the Duomo and in area churches. It’s ok to step inside churches to see their nativity scenes, provided you don’t go during service hours.
Step inside artisan meat and cheese shops and you’ll most likely find generous tasting offerings. We tasted so much cheese, it was a snack!

Buy a panettone at a grocery store. This traditional Italian holiday bread is similar to a coffee cake, and we picked one up for under €5. We liked it so much, we bought another in Rome!
If you want to ice skate at the outdoor rinks, the ice is free, but skate rentals are around €5 per person. For this price, you usually get about 30 minutes. This was enough time for us. The rink we found was open Christmas Day.

Have you been to Florence at Christmas? What was your favorite sight to see?

Guide to Paris Christmas markets

November 30, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

One of our favorite memories of a Paris Christmas was touring the many Paris Christmas markets across the city. Some Christmas markets pop up fairly spontaneously from year to year, but there are a few staples you’ll find to be consistent. Here’s where to go to find Paris Christmas markets, plus tips for best enjoyment of these seasonal wonders.

Top Paris Christmas markets:

The biggies each year are as follows (plus how to get there):

The Concorde area: this largest Christmas market is located at the Concorde, right in the shadow of the seasonal ferris wheel (built for the World’s Fair). It’s at the end of the famous Champs- Élysées, so if you’re already walking down this to see the holiday lights and decor, you’ll end up here.
Under the Eiffel Tower: this was our favorite Christmas market, as it wasn’t too big and wasn’t too small. And the ambiance is amazing under the tower, especially when it sparkles on the hour at night. We visited this market before and after going to the top of the tower.
In the Montmartre area: this market is a bit more ‘working class’, with some touristy stuff tossed in, located under the shadow of Sacre Coeur. Take the metro to the Chateau Rogue stop, or tack this visit on to a tour of Sacre Coeur. You can take the tram up the hill, too.

Tips for making the most of the Paris Christmas markets:

Plan on making a meal of it: We purposely planned our mealtimes around Christmas markets. This is a cheap and delicious way to eat in Paris during the holiday season. At every Christmas market, we could find the staples: crepes, Belgian waffles, baguettes toasted with melted cheese, mulled wine, hot chocolate, and all sorts of candies and nuts.
Look for smaller markets: We found a fun yet small Christmas market across the Seine from Notre Dame, by the Latin Quarter. It was only a dozen or so huts, but Santa Claus was there without a line, and the vendors were among the most friendly.

Bring cash: at most huts, you’ll need to pay in cash. Give kids coins to spend on their own.
Shop for Christmasy souvenirs: During our Christmas visit, we decided to play a game of ‘secret Santa’ within our family. Each family member bought little trinkets and treats at Christmas markets for another member of the family. We had a lot of fun.

Look for ice skating rinks: Many Christmas markets include small ice skating rinks. Below the Eiffel Tower, the rink was actually a loop, similar to a track, which skaters used as though on a trail. If you combine an Eiffel Tower Christmas market trip with a ride up the tower, stop and skate at the 1st floor landing ON the tower. It’s free!
Try the vin chaud: This mulled wine may not be made with the highest quality wine, but it’s piping hot and seasoned nicely. For kids, the chocolat chaud is the way to go.
Look for public restrooms: Restrooms are in short supply in Paris, but we always found one at major Christmas markets.
Almost all Paris Christmas markets open the third week of November and close January 1. Hours are generally noon to 10 pm.

What is your favorite Paris Christmas market?

How to visit the Paris catacombs with kids

October 24, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

One attraction near the top of my teen’s list of things to do in Paris was the Paris Catacombs. This underground network lies in the heart of the city, spanning two km. It’s creepy and fascinating and toured completely on one’s own, unless you opt for a guide. We recommend it, as the actual visit only takes about 45 minutes and can easily be added to a Paris itinerary with teens or older kids, but there are many things to know ahead of time to make your day run smoothly. Here’s how to visit the Paris catacombs with kids:

You can start on the catacombs’ official website, which will tell you the essential details, but it won’t tell you the number one bit of information you need: to tour, you’ll be given a timed ticket, which involves two different lines and waiting times unless you either 1. buy online, or 2. get there right at opening.

We did not buy ahead of time OR get there early, and this was the process:

Start in a queue to get your timed ticket. You don’t pay at this time. It will be confusing to figure out where this line is or where it starts, as the entrance to the catacombs looks like a boarding line for an airplane…lots of people merging and clustering without a clear queue. Ask any of the officials for the timed ticket line until you find it.
When you get to the front of this line (on our visit, this took about 30 minutes), you’ll be given a slip of paper saying what time to come back. We were there on a pretty busy day and our timed ticket was for 3 hours later. Note: if you arrive in the later part of the afternoon, you’ll probably be told to come back the next day.
When you come back at your timed ticket hour, you will need to show the slip to the official at the front of the entrance and he or she will direct you vaguely in the direction of a vague line. They let in about 50 people at a time (for a total of 200 or so in the catacomb network at once), so you’ll basically be grouping with all the other people who have the same time as you. The wait isn’t long; maybe another 15-20 minutes.

Note: don’t try to come AFTER your time indicated. We were 30 minutes late, and it took some persistence to be allowed in.

Once inside, you’ll pay at the counter and descend the staircase to the underground level. Once there, you’re on your own to walk the (quite long) distance through an underground tunnel to where to opens out into a wider space. Here, you’ll see some signage talking about the history of the catacombs, then the catacombs themselves.

What to expect in the catacombs:

Once you’re in the catacombs themselves, there’s no signage or explanations of anything, apart from a few very generalized dates. Stacked bones line the walkways, primarily made up of femurs, tibias, and skulls. Some are in interesting patterns and geometric shapes, but most are just lining the walkway like a wall. Certainly, it’s an interesting sight, especially for kids and teens but they are human remains, which gives them a decidedly creepy tone. Parents will need to use judgement as to whether their kids are ready for this.

I wished there was more explanation of the remains, but the point made is that these are unknown people, moved here as needed to make room elsewhere. Most of the remains are from the era of plagues when mass graves were necessary. At least, that’s as much as we could put together with little information. If this is a site and subject that interests you greatly, I advise booking a private tour. I know Viator.com has one.

When you arrive at the catacombs, whether you have timed tickets from booking online or need to stand in the queue for timed tickets, expect a certain level of chaos. The official website does not explain the ticketing process well (or at all, really), so many visitors are confused and frustrated. Of course, this would be simple to fix, but when we heard a visitor suggest information be placed on the website, the ticket operator simply chuckled. I guess it will never happen.

A few more logistics:

The stairs both going down and coming up from the catacombs are steep and long. There is no alternative, such as an elevator. Needless to say, this site is not handicap-friendly.
The temperature is 14 degrees C, so wear a light sweater or coat.
There is no bathroom or anywhere to store a backpack.

Visitor numbers are restricted to 200 at any time. Admission may be delayed for a short time during busy periods.

Cost and hours:

Open daily from 10am to 8pm, except Mondays and some public holidays. Last admission: 7pm. To buy tickets online, try this website. Adults are €12, kids under 18 are free.

Directions:

The catacombs are located at 1, avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy – 75014 Paris. You’ll want to take Metro line 4 to the Cité stop.

Three days in Florence with kids

April 27, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

I’ve heard it said that Florence is not an ideal destination for kids, but I couldn’t disagree more. Our three days in Florence were among our best in Europe. Even with only a basic education in Renaissance art, which Florence is known for, we found plenty to do in this charming and picturesque Tuscan city. For us, the key to enjoying Florence with kids was to temper museum visits with lots of eating and shopping through the many street markets and artisan shops.

Florence is a very walkable town. Even from the main train station, Santa Maria Novella, families can easily walk into the city center in ten minutes. During our entire stay, we never needed any sort of transportation. After a fun but busy week in Paris, this fact alone set the relaxed tone for our stay. Right away, we noted that wherever we walked, we found beautiful alleys, shops, and art to peruse.

Florence is filled with historical sites and museums, most of which can be accessed on walking tours of the city with outdoor sculptures, exterior architecture, and free-entry churches. In fact, we only went in to three museums during our stay. Here’s how we spent three days in Florence with kids:

Day 1: David and Duomo

Florence is home to two major museums for Renaissance art: the Uffizi Gallery and the Accedemia. Most people would consider the Uffizi a must-do, and I don’t disagree…but with three kids who have not studied Renaissance art, we did the unthinkable: we skipped it. Instead, we went directly the the Accedemia to see Michelangelo’s David. This is a sculpture we DID study beforehand, and it did wow us. The Accedemia is not so big as to be overwhelming; it was easy to quickly find the David and the few other pieces of art we knew we wanted to see. These included the Prisoners and the hall of musical history, with wonderful instruments from various centuries. We spent only an hour and a half in the Accedemia, which may be considered a crime, but worked well for us.

We bought our tickets online ahead of time, which allowed us to skip the long ling out front. Instead, we only needed to go to the ‘advance ticket’ booth across the street from the entrance, where they printed out our tickets by reservation number. These are timed tickets, and we opted for mid-morning.

Note: if you have tall teens, have them bring an ID to guarantee them their free entry. Kids 18 and under are free, but apparently our 16-year-old looks older than he is.

The Accedemia is a short, direct walk to the Duomo, Florence’s crown jewel. This dome is an architectural wonder, and kids love it. On the five minute walk, stop for sandwiches at the take-out window en route. There’s a small grocery store nearby with very affordable water bottles and juice. At the Duomo, the combined ticket gets families into the dome, the museum, and the camponile for about €12 a ticket. Entry to the cathedral is free. Teens pay full price; kids 12 and under are half price. It’s also possible to get a ticket for just the dome, though we recommend seeing it all, especially if you’re doing only a few paid museum visits.

Note: We bought tickets for the Duomo first thing in the morning, on our walk over to the Accedemia. The line for tickets is shorter at this time. You can buy tickets in either the main ticket line or at the campanile. Opt for the latter. When you return, you’ll still wait in a line to go up the campanile and the dome, but others will be waiting in both these lines AND the ticketing line.

The line to go up into the dome gets long, but it moves fast. It’s a very interesting visit. First you go up a narrow, spiraling staircase, which spits you out on a balcony overlooking the interior of the lower dome. From here, you can look down at the cathedral interior, and up at the frescos on the dome. You’re moved along at a steady pace to another series of staircases to the upper dome area. This time, you’re in the unadorned interior of the outer dome. Imagine two layers of dome, with you sandwiched between. It’s not that claustrophobic, but close. This is a great place to note how the dome’s architect, Filippo Brunelleschi, constructed this masterpiece (he was inspired by Rome’s Pantheon dome). Finally, a final, steep, and narrow staircase takes you to the very top, where you’re deposited outside the tip of the dome for amazing city views.

Expect to feel the crush of humanity on this visit: while in a line, there are several places along the route where the people going up meet with the people going down, with only minimal crowd control by Duomo staff. There are quite a few moments of squeezing past people and letting others pass. If you’re tall, watch your head on the low ceilings. Consider not bringing a backpack, as the extra width will make it hard to navigate the stairs.

On the route back down, you’ll get the chance to stop at the upper interior dome balcony, where you can practically (but not quite) touch the frescos on the ceiling. It’s truly an amazing visit.

Note: There are over 400 steps on the accent, so bear this in mind. However, anyone of reasonable health and fitness can do it: the line of people move steadily but slowly.

After visiting the dome, you’ll probably need a break from stairs before tackling the campanile. Visit the museum, which rarely has a line at all. Here, you’ll see a life-size model of the front of the Duomo from the years before it was ‘re-modeled’ during the Renaissance, plus several levels of fascinating art and artifacts. Kids and teens will be especially interested in the collection of church relics on the ground floor. They include bones from the likes of John the Baptist and several saints. Young kids may be creeped out, as some bones are very recognizable as human, such as jawbones embedded in gold and jewels. We spent about an hour in this museum, but you could easily spend longer.

Day 2: Oltrarno walk and Da Vinci

We spread out our museum visits, which meant we saved the fun Da Vinci museum for Day 2. There are actually two ‘campuses’ of this museum in Florence, and according to our guide books, they are quite similar…if you go to one, there’s no need to go to the other. There’s a flat entry rate for families (I believe it was €20), or you can opt to pay a la carte if you have younger kids (kids 12 and under are half price). The Da Vinci Museum is completely self-guided, and consists of a large collection of to-scale models of Da Vinci’s many inventions. The best part: it’s hands on. Kids can pull levers, move wheels, and push and pull things to see how Leonardo’s many contraptions worked. It’s fascinating for adults too: it was amazing to see how far ahead of his time Da Vinci was thinking. We saw his model for an odometer, a tank, a humidity tester, and so many, many more. His flying contraptions were there, as well as his anatomical sketches and replicas of his paintings, so kids could compare his artwork to his inventions and learn how he studied anatomy in an era when it was illegal to study cadavers.

Note: If you have energy for another museum, the Galileo Museum is adjacent to the Uffizi and has Galileo’s actual telescopes (as well as his finger, interestingly enough).

After a morning of museum visits, we had had enough. We opted for a walking tour through the afternoon. From the Galileo, we started outside the Uffizi, where families can see many sculptures outside in the courtyard. Then we crossed the Ponte Vecchio bridge (checking out the jewelry vendors while walking over) to the Oltrarno neighborhood. Oltrarno simply means ‘on the other side of the Arno’, and is much quieter and, in our opinion, less touristy than the Duomo side. This is where the many artisans of Florence have their shops, which you can peek into as you explore the narrow streets here. From the bridge, continue straight to the Pitti Palace. This imposing palace was home to the famous Medici family for generations. You can go inside, but we’re done with art for a bit, right?

Instead, we continued, turning right down more artisan streets, exploring as we happened upon smaller piazzas and churches. Our favorites were in Santo Spirito. Eventually, we turned right again to find the river. As long as you always know where the Arno is, you can’t really get too lost. Once back near the Ponte Vecchio, head east along the Oltrarno side until you see the city wall and the stairs to climb to Michelangelo piazza, for great city views, vendors, and of course, another church.

After this long walk, we spent the rest of the day letting the kids wander at will, looking around the shops near the Ponte Vecchio. In this area, you’ll find lots of osterias (wine bars), cheese and meat shops (most with generous sampling), and leather shops. There are also many vendors selling trinkets, puppets, wool scarves, and the like.

Day 3: San Lorenzo and Mercado Centrale

North of the Ponte Vecchio and Duomo, the Mercado Centrale is Florence’s foodie market, housed in a big warehouse building full of light and windows. Several stories tall, this market is very fun to peruse; if you have time, pick out picnic supplies for a lunch outside. Next to Mercado Centrale is the San Lorenzo market, which is an open-air market of leather goods. Each stall entices with the smell of leather and the rich, bright colors of Florentine belts, wallets, journals, and more. This is where to spend those euros on souvenirs.

Where to stay in Florence with kids:

While we were in Florence, I didn’t see a bad place to stay, but we loved our location, just on the Oltrarno side of the Ponte Vecchio. We rented an apartment from AirBnb, and had beds for five, plus a living space and kitchen and large bathroom for less than €100 per night. Our place was located just above a pottery shop, and was very peaceful and quiet while still only steps from the action. For a link to the exact apartment we rented, check out this post on renting AirBnb in Italy.

Where to eat:

Again, you can’t go wrong. We ate all over the city, but focused our attention on the Oltrarno. By Santo Spirito, we liked Borgo Antico, and right near the bridge, we loved Celestino, where the staff was especially warm and welcoming. By the Duomo, the Black Bar was our go-to place for gelato, and Osteria dei Pazzi was recommended to us for dinner. There’s also a grocery store by the bridge (one street into Oltrarno) with a nice cheese and meat counter and fresh pasta, for those with kitchens.

We only had one bad meal in Florence, right across from Pitti Palace at Bellini. Hopefully we just caught this restaurant on an off-night, but I’d skip it.

What’s your go-to activity in Florence?

Louvre vs d’Orsay museum: why you should visit both with kids

March 30, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’re visiting Paris with kids ten and up, both the Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay are probably on your short list. When I created our Paris itinerary with kids, I initially left the d’Orsay off of it. This was a big mistake! On recommendation by our Fat Tire Tours guide, we ended up spending a morning at this museum and it was our most enjoyable museum visit in Paris. In the battle of the Louvre vs d’Orsay museum, here’s why you need to make time for both.

What you’ll only find at the Louvre:

Most people are aware that the Louvre is home of Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Of course, this is a big draw, and like many, many other people, we really wanted to see this work of art while we were in Paris. Is it the only show in town? Of course not, but I believe that when kids (and adults) see a work of art they instantly recognize, it increases their enthusiasm for art museums as a whole. There’s a wow factor in seeing the Mona Lisa, and it shouldn’t be underestimated or ignored. In other words, don’t worry about being a cliche; go see it!

Also at the Louvre is the Venus de Milo, as well as a wonderful collection of medieval and Renaissance paintings that serve as a good crash course in the major players of the 14th-18th century. I am not an art historian, so I won’t pretend to know exactly what I’m talking about in regard to particular works, but it’s worth the €5 per person to grab an audio guide when you enter. You can pick and choose which works to learn more about.

Note: the audio guides do not offer commentary on every piece of art. Rather, there are selected works that have an audio symbol adjacent. We found that depending on the room, there might only be 2-3 audio commentary art pieces.

There are three main wings of the Louvre, divided into eight main categories of art. We grabbed a map and headed straight to the biggies we wanted to see, then toured through the Egyptian antiquities and sculptures. The collection of medieval armor and weaponry is of great appeal to kids as well.

What you’ll only find at the d’Orsay:

Compared to the Louvre, the d’Orsay is downright small. It’s very nice to have a manageable space to navigate! This museum is housed in the beautiful train station made during the world fair days, and is light, airy and bright. It’s main focus is Impressionist paintings, and has works primarily from the 18th-20th centuries. You can find Rodin here, Van Gogh, Monet, and Renoir, among many others.

Personally, we prefer this style of art, from the Impressionist era, so we were much more excited for the d’Orsay. With the museum map, it’s easy to find everything, and we found that the kids discovered more pieces that they recognized from text books and popular culture here.

Note: from upstairs on the 5th floor of the d’Orsay, there are wonderful views of Sacre Coeur and a glimpse out the window of the famous train station clock face (on either end).

How to see them both (without burning out):

While the d’Orsay is more manageable than the Louvre, don’t even try to see everything in either one. We didn’t even make it to one entire wing of the Louvre. Instead, do some research ahead of time to know what are the must-sees for your group, and get those accomplished first. Then wander at will for a set amount of time, and that’s it. In each museum, we spent about three hours. We saw our highlights in the first hour, our secondary picks in the second, then wandered for the last part.
Get the Paris Museum Pass! This pass, which works similarly to CityPass in the US, grants you entry into dozens of attractions and museums in Paris. However, since kids 18 and under and free in most cases, the real value of this pass is in the line-skipping feature. We literally saved hours at each museum by going into the ‘Paris Pass and Reserved Tickets’ line. The museum pass also comes with multi-day metro tickets, which you absolutely need to purchase in Paris anyway.
Make time to eat. At the Louvre, the cafe on the second level is not bad at all. Better yet, in summer, go outside to the Tuileries to eat at one of the little walk-up cafes there. This is even an option in winter, though some of the food stands close.
Use the visitor trails. We opted not to do this, but the Louvre has set itineraries you can follow. If you have a theme of interest, this is a great way to make sure not to miss anything. The trails are pre-loaded in the audio guide, or can be followed separately.
Be sure to grab a map. We found the maps at both museums to be essential.

Which museum do you prefer in Paris? Why?

Getting from Pisa to Florence with a side trip to the Leaning Tower of Pisa

March 28, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

If you’re flying into Pisa’s airport and then getting from Pisa to Florence Italy, you have several options, all of which are pretty cheap and pretty fast. However, if you want to take advantage of your time in the town to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa, there’s really only one way to do it. Here’s how (and why it’s worth the time):

From Pisa International Airport (PSA), also called Galileo Galilei Airport, you’ll need to go to the bus ticket window/newsstand directly past the baggage claim, in the arrivals area. This booth can sell you bus fare for the Rossa (red) line, that goes from the airport to Pisa Centrale railway station, the city’s biggest train depot. It’s a five minute ride, and costs just a few euros, but from the rail station, the Rossa line continues through town, to the Leaning Tower.

Note: bus rides are FREE all morning in Pisa, with fare only needed after noon. During our visit, we started our bus ride in the morning, but returned in the afternoon, so we bought one-way fare. If your trip will be all in the afternoon, buy return bus fare from this booth as well.

Step outside with your tickets, and you’ll see the bus stop directly across the small parking lot (this is a small airport). Look for a red circle on the front of the bus. They are being literal when they say it’s the Rossa line.

Once on the bus, note the stop at Pisa Centrale, because you’ll want to get off here on your return from the tower, in order to get to Florence. But for now, stay on the bus. Unfortunately, we were given incorrect information on another website, and thought we needed to get off the Rossa line here and access the tower via the trains. Not so.

Stay on the bus another few stops, until you get to the Torre stop. There’s usually an outdoor market directly in front of the tower complex, called Piazza del Duomo, partially obscuring your view. We didn’t even see the tower the first time we got to this stop, and thought it was the wrong one! (We had all sorts of navigational issues this day!)

At Torre, get off the bus and walk through the marketplace to the gate to the tower and cathedral. You’ll clearly see it at this point. It’s free to walk around the base of the Leaning Tower and into the cathedral. A funny note: the tower began leaning during construction, but they kept on anyway!

You can buy tickets online to go inside the tower…you can even climb to the top and see the view from outside. We didn’t have time for this, as we were due in Florence at a certain hour, but if you budget a few hours at the piazza, I recommend going up the tower and into the cathedral. There’s a baptistry as well. Of course, you’ll also see plenty of vendors with booths of touristy souvenirs.

Once you’re ready to depart, take the same Rossa bus line back to Centrale. This bus line goes in a loop, so you can’t go wrong. Once at Centrale, go to the ticket sales window and ask for the first train to Florence. They typically run every hour or so, so we didn’t find any reason to book ahead of time. At the time of our visit, tickets were approximately €18 for adults and half that for kids. You’ll need to be at the correct platform for your train 10 minutes before departure.

Note: Be sure to validate your train ticket once you’re on the platform. You’ll see green validation machines. There’s a steep fine if you’re caught with an unvalidated ticket, though we never saw anyone checked during our trip.

The ride on TrenItalia to Florence took under an hour, and we were able to charge devices and access WiFi onboard. We took TrenItalia many times in Italy, and found it comfortable and convenient every time. We ate lunch on the train, finding several food options at a food court at the Centrale station.

The kids couldn’t help showing off their favorite train snacks!

Once in Florence, get off at the main station, Santa Maria Novella. Almost every point in the city center is walkable from this station, which is lovely! Enjoy Florence!

Worth noting: if you do NOT want to stop in Pisa to see the Leaning Tower, you can take either TrenItalia to Florence exactly as we did from Centrale, or you can buy cheaper bus tickets for buses that depart directly from the airport. We were even given the option of buying these tickets onboard our plane. They are approximately five euros each (one euro more if bought once you land), and by far the cheapest route to Florence. However, the bus takes longer and you miss out on Pisa.

Guide to surviving (I mean enjoying) the Vatican Museums with kids

March 25, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

You can’t go to Rome without seeing the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica, but make no mistake, the Vatican Museums are difficult to tackle, with or without kids. With over 2000 rooms and nine miles of art, these vast and imposing buildings within Vatican City are overwhelming on the best of days…on the worst, you’ll be wading through crowds that make Disney World on New Year’s Day look like a ghost town. During our most recent visit during the Christmas holidays, we often felt as though we were wading through a sea of humanity. Needless to say, this is not the best way to appreciate priceless art.

Guide to surviving (I mean enjoying) the Vatican Museums with kids:

Families should be prepared to deal with significant crowds, lines, and tired feet when visiting the Vatican Museums, but there are steps you can take to minimize these discomforts and enjoy the experience. The following are our five best tips for a day in the Vatican.

Get a guide.

Don’t even think about trying to navigate the Vatican Museums without one. While you can save money with a large group tour, I recommend a small group tour of ten people or fewer. It’s easier to stick with your guide in a small group, you can enter some of the smaller passageways and rooms that big groups skip, and the tour can cover more ground. We took this tour with Viator. With it, we skipped the line to buy tickets, which is absolutely essential when touring the Vatican Museums. We went through a very short security line, got our headsets so we could hear our guide on the tour, and we were off.

Our guide showed us the essentials; on a three hour tour, there isn’t time for more. But since we’re not art historians and were there for the biggies, like the Raphael rooms and Sistine Chapel, we were very satisfied with all we saw.

Plan to spend 3/4 of a day for a 1/2 day tour.

Plan plenty of time to arrive at the Vatican…it’s a large complex. For our Viator tour, we met with our guide at their tour office instead of at the entrance to the museums, so check your reservation carefully to know where to go. You also need to build in time to eat lunch after a morning tour, plus budget time to look through St. Peter’s Basilica if it’s not included in your tour. If you want to climb the dome, there is a separate line. It may be worthwhile to your group to do this, but I’d take a break and eat something between visiting the Vatican Museums and the dome.

Skip the gardens.

Someone will probably tell me I’m wrong about this (and if so, please do comment), but our tour guide advised that we could see the gardens from the patio/terrace of the museum, and it wasn’t necessary to get a tour there as well. We’re glad we used our time in other ways.

Dress correctly for St. Peter’s.

Remember that to enter St. Peter’s Basilica, you’ll need legs and shoulders covered. This means no shorts in the hot summer months. In winter, it’s easier to be wearing the right clothes, but in warmer months, you may need to make a note to wear long pants and take a scarf or light shirt to put on when needed.

Prepare kids ahead of time.

It really helps to prepare kids (and adults!) ahead of time with some information about the major works of art they’ll see. We looked at pictures of the Raphael rooms, some sculpture, and Michelangelo’s masterpiece before we left home, and learned a little bit about each piece. This way, when the kids actually saw these works of art, they meant something personal to them. Even with this preparation, there were moment of boredom as we went through room after room. I don’t blame the kids; after awhile the frescos start to look the same. Thanks to our guide, we were able to find differences between them and stories to go with them.

Lastly, don’t eat at the cafeteria directly down the street from St. Peter’s, below the square. We were very hungry after our tour and this place and a McDonalds were the first restaurants we saw. We decided the cafeteria must be better than McDonalds. We were wrong.

Yes, still smiling at the end of the tour. Mostly.

Pricing:

If you decide to tour the Vatican Museums on your own (don’t do this!), you’ll need to queue up early to get in. Tickets are €16 and €8 (adult and child). If you want to buy tickets online to avoid the queue, but not have a guide, it’s possible to buy tickets here.

What are your best Vatican tips?

Exploring Rome with kids: Overome Colosseum tour review

March 21, 2016 By Amy Hagstrom

Touring Rome’s Colosseum and Forum is always in the top three attractions for families. This center of ancient Roman history is a must-do, but also big, crowded, and complex. We were very glad we opted to see the Colosseum and Forum with a small group tour. If Rome is in your family travel plans, read on for our Overome Colosseum tour review.

We chose to see the Colosseum with Overome based on recommendations from other travel writers. I’d heard Overome’s tour guides work hard to make the content of the tour relevant to kids, are reliable and timely, and are knowledgable. We were steered right, because our guide Federica was all this and more.

Overome Colosseum tour review:

Overome’s Colosseum and Ancient City Tour starts at the Colosseum metro station, directly under the shadow of the great arena. We met Federica (Feddie) here; she was easy to spot with her Overome sign. Our group consisted of only our family of seven, plus three other guests. After brief introductions, we were off…and by off, I mean just across the street to the arena.

Note: I highly recommend booking small group tours instead of large ones. We saw many large groups walking through the sites, and it didn’t look fun to be in a herd.

The Overome tour includes all entrance tickets and fees, so we didn’t have to wait in the imposing ticket line. We did, of course, have to wait in the security line, but although it snaked halfway around the base of the Colosseum on the day we visited, it took less than twenty minutes to get through. During that time, Federica (Feddie) gave us an overview of the structure and its history. While we patiently moved up in the line, we heard other tour guides getting agitated with the wait, and their guests getting impatient. I knew right then, only minutes into our three hour tour, that we were in good hands with Feddie.

Once in the Colosseum, Feddie took us slowly from level to level, explaining how the arena was built and by whom, its architecture and design, and its uses over the years of its history. Even though the complex was crowded, it was easy to hear what she was saying because we were given earbuds and radios.

Everyone knows at least a little about this colosseum of gladiators, emperors, and prisoners, but we learned quite a few new tidbits, especially about the many exotic animals who entertained and died there, as well as specific stories about certain victims of the games.

Feddie used illustrations on an iPad to help explain her points, which really helped us visualize what she was describing. By no means were we looking at the screen all the time, but it was definitely a useful tool. This tour doesn’t take visitors down to the bottom floor of the Colosseum, be we did spend time on the upper levels with views of the labyrinth of rooms and levers and one-time elevators that made the Colosseum function in its heyday. We actually wished we had more time in the Colosseum when it was time to move on to the Forum.

The Forum is the section of the ancient city center for which I most wanted (and needed) a guide. Without one, it’s an expanse of half-ruined buildings and rubble. Even with a guidebook in-hand, it’s not done justice without someone knowledgable to explain it. I know, because the first time I visited the Forum ten years ago, I did it on my own. I learned far more with Feddie.

We started at the far end, where she pointed out major landmarks in the Forum and showed us more images on her iPad to give us an idea of what it once was. After we could visualize it, we could see how the remains of marble and stone had once been grand buildings and streets. She explained what each structure had been used for, including the House and Temple of Vestrals, Arch of Titus, and the alter with Julius Caesar’s ashes. We learned about the multiple ‘layers’ of the Forum, and for the first time, I could really see how much of the area had been buried in mud and soil for centuries at a time.

We spent more than an hour in the Forum, which left us with little time for Palatine Hill. We were given an overview, however, and when Feddie left us, we were still inside the complex, so we were free to explore it more on our own. Instead, we were worn out and hungry by this time, so we asked her for a lunch recommendation in the area. After leaving Feddie, we happily dined on pizza at nearby Pizza Forum.

Our Overome tour definitely confirmed my suspicion that we needed an expert to fully experience this part of the city. And we couldn’t have been happier with Feddie; it was clear she likes her job and knows her stuff.

Cost:

The Overome Colosseum and Ancient City tour is $52 per person, and I believe the value is definitely there. At the time of our visit, we departed from the metro station at 9 am, and were done by 12 pm.

As I disclose whenever applicable, our tour with Overome was complimentary, for the purpose of review. Without this type of hospitality, we would not be able to write personalized and up-to-date reviews.